I am posting 30 videos in 30 Days for August …customer appreciation month at weldmonger.com. Lots of deals and giveaways going on too but you will need to sign up here weldmongerstore.com/blogs/weldingtipsandtricks/wm-blitz-video-1-30-videos-in-30-days
The included angle of the plates has a large effect on the argon flow needed. A fillet weld typically has a 90 degree included angle which will confine the argon. A corner weld generally has a 270 degree included angle which will do the opposite, requiring increased argon flow. You could test argon flow needed for included angles of 90, 180 and 270 degrees.
Checking flow rate at the cup is a great way to eliminate those uncertainties in your equipment. Sometimes it’s just not 100% accurate at the valve. Also I gotta say the content has been very timely for me as I’ve just been assigned a handful of aluminum jobs at work. I’ve learned tons from the channel so far and I look forward to learning more!
Hey Jody 👍🏼 Great content and I was really surprised by how much variation there is/was the first time I played with a gas flow meter at the cup. II was curious about how the Ar flow was affecting my puddle and to see how much I could do to help save gas. I don’t experience gas loss over time or of an evening while the bottle is opened and I have done multiple leak checks on my setup. Is it possible or even normal that the gas solenoid on my machine ( Primeweld TIG225ACDC) would restrict the flow rate (5 CFH on avg.) ever so slightly? Thanks a TON I look forward to seeing what you have coming up video wise in the coming weeks as well with some more new products in your store! Cheers
I personally like a smaller cup to try and minimize the etching around the weld, but as soon as you said that 20 usually works fine, my mind went to flow check/ regulator problem/ dirty gas. It really can be amazing sometimes how we just take it for fact that we’re welding at X amps, and Y flow when that really may not be the case. Great video👍🏻
I was having the same problem with my aluminum welds having peppering and contaminations in it until I bought a flow tube like the gentleman had and I've noticed two from my 12 ft TIG torch to my 25 ft tig torch there's always a variation in the flow and I never trust the meter on my regulator. Thank you for all the tips and tricks Jody keep up the good work and keep up the good videos. 👍👍👍👍👍 I also have a primeweld tig225x now for about 3 years with the water cooler w/flex-loc torch. It is been flawless not one problem.....
Very interesting. I am learning, how to weld aluminium by myself and i am always glad, to get new input. Altough this argon is not cheap, i will give it a try and increase the flow next time.
My flowmeter is off by about 15%. Additionally I always add some extra gas volume when welding outside corners as I believe the shape of the aluminum splits the argon and it doesn't stay at the cup
Thanks Jody great content the flow meter to see if the flow meter is accurate to real flow I had peppering in the puddle in the past this is not enough flow great stuff !
I worked on building powerline substation. We had 6" Aluminum schedule 80 round buss work with cast fittings. The welders started using a mixed gas for the aluminum and it helped a lot I don't remember the mix but I am pretty sure it had helium in it.
Jody, I have noticed in 5/32-0.160" & heavier 5052 & 5086 that a sheared or band sawed edge will introduce enough 'junk' to salt and pepper even high flow argon welds. I find that by sanding the plate edge or using a Vixen file and de-burring the edges of the plate will help to clean up the bead without having to go up to 40-50 ft^3/hr. to get full cleaning. Noticed one of the coupons in the video seemed to have a sheared edge (looks torn/grooved by saw teeth and not filed/sanded?) & that may contribute to the floating spots left on the bead?
good eye. Brad Goodman @deepsouthdimestacker on IG who welds lots and lots of dog boxes and other aluminum parts...visited the next day and we talked about edge prep and said the same thing you did. Next time, I need to be more thorough on edge prep for best results. thanks
@@weldingtipsandtricks I will definately try this! I know for a fact I use more cfh with my spool gun argon compared to normal mig argosheild mix. I have never tried that high into the 30 range tho
Obviously, flow rate makes a difference....but I would say that the outside corner splitting the flow is why that particular joint requires a higher flow rate. Do you carry/offer the flow rate testers by chance?
@@weldingtipsandtricks I would like to have the CK flow tester, but it seems so overpriced. Hopefully you'll sell a tester that reads in scfh not l/min
What about clamping some steel angle iron around the joint to make a 90 degree canyon instead of the 270 degree peak? Or is the assumption just burn all the argon you want?
@@carpediemarts705 On their test piece that would be easy, in the shop on a real part you may not have that option due to the part configuration which may not allow clamp access
I tried cheap and expensive ball flow meters, but found out they are really not very accurate at all when testing flow on end of the tig torch with the test tube. Only one close to the setting on tank and torch end was flow meter supplied with Primeweld 225. On the rest I need add at least 7 CFH or more to get flow I need on the torch .
Correct yes. I always use the standard 8 cup with 3.2, I tried the number 7 and other argon flows but for some reason it never feels right for me. Balance settings -0.5 most of the time, if it ain't the settings ... then it will be me. Same goes for 1.6 with cup 3.... 4 works better for me.
Jody, I love your work! At 3:56, you said that your 30 SCFH "probably wasn't really 30 SCFH." Can we infer that the next day, your friend's Pea Shooter registered a lower figure?
I can help buy noticing your back cap sits very proud of the torch head. Maybe the o-ring in the back cap wasn't sealing properly? Also, I know the clear cups are good for arc shots and for "lightning up the path" as you say, but I kind of hate them. I loved "fancy" cups, gas lenses, and all, when I was beginning. Now I run pretty much everything on standard consumables, except for stainless intrincate work like manifolds and such, where I love a jazzy #10.
Good video. I've noticed similar results. I've also noticed that the flow checked at the nozzle is less than the meter shows at the tank, sometimes as much as 7 or 8 cfh. I've double checked for leaks. So has to be losing flow going through the hose and fittings and/or differences in the flow meters.
you can get them from arc zone.com or amazon but make sure to get one that has the right increments . cfh or lpm . I should have some listed on weldmongerstore.com/ soon
Tungsten stick out plays a big part on open corners. You had too much stickout for me. Lower the stickout and you’ll be able to run it with the same results at 15-20cfh
I dont normally use that much stickout but if I dont, the cup blocks the puddle. I agree that corners make a difference...for a tee joint, would have been fine at 15-20cfh
Jody, do you know/recommend any apps to help with welding? Such as type of metal, process, settings, gases? I have the books, but sure would save time to have a machine for hobbyist that you just input, and it sets it. Ofcourse, you videos are excellent too! LOL...
the "miller welding calculator app" can help get you in the ball park but settings for mig are based on flat and horizontal fillet welds and are often too hot for anything else. but it can be really helpful for things like spool gun welding to get you close
It really does'nt matter unless a specific flow rate is externally mandated as the manometer is only used as a reference measurement. Jodi is measuring his flow rate compared to his many years of experience and to other joints, not to an SI (System International) metric. The calibration of the manometer is totally arbitary. The manometer could be calibrated in apples & strawberries for all it matters, so long as the torch always has a flow rate of xxx strawberries thats all that matters. Its a starting guide for the operator to set a baseline and use skill to progress from there.
I would like to have seen the other side of the experiment. Keep the argon flow at 15 cfm and keep the 90 degree outside corner and adjust the cup size (& type even better). I percieve the normal 15 cfm gas to be exit the torch and hit the 90 deg angle so the gas rushes away at 45 degrees faster than on the flat surface where I guess the gas hits at approx 180 degrees and bounces out & up, keeping a ball of gas turbulant around the weld pool. I suspect your increasing the gas flow rate is simply forcing a thicker stream of gas to form as it rushes away at 45 degrees from the corner. So I think your same 15 cfm and a larger cup size will allow a wider gas area immediately in front of the nozel and hence a slower escape of gas down the 45 degree sides of the joint thereby making the effective gas thickness & coverage area greater. Ie producing the same gas coverage over the weld pool as you got by increasing the gas flow rate but with a larger cup wasting less gas?
@@weldingtipsandtricks Hi Jodi. If your manometer is way off calibration that begs the question "a sudden bang" or "gradual degredation"? A sudden bang, I would have thought you would have heard a change in the sound of gasflow. But if its degredational, why the sudden lack of cleaning as it should be similarly getting worse by the day/month etc. Good luck. Thanks.
I am posting 30 videos in 30 Days for August …customer appreciation month at weldmonger.com. Lots of deals and giveaways going on too but you will need to sign up here weldmongerstore.com/blogs/weldingtipsandtricks/wm-blitz-video-1-30-videos-in-30-days
The included angle of the plates has a large effect on the argon flow needed. A fillet weld typically has a 90 degree included angle which will confine the argon. A corner weld generally has a 270 degree included angle which will do the opposite, requiring increased argon flow. You could test argon flow needed for included angles of 90, 180 and 270 degrees.
Checking flow rate at the cup is a great way to eliminate those uncertainties in your equipment. Sometimes it’s just not 100% accurate at the valve.
Also I gotta say the content has been very timely for me as I’ve just been assigned a handful of aluminum jobs at work. I’ve learned tons from the channel so far and I look forward to learning more!
Hey Jody 👍🏼 Great content and I was really surprised by how much variation there is/was the first time I played with a gas flow meter at the cup. II was curious about how the Ar flow was affecting my puddle and to see how much I could do to help save gas. I don’t experience gas loss over time or of an evening while the bottle is opened and I have done multiple leak checks on my setup. Is it possible or even normal that the gas solenoid on my machine ( Primeweld TIG225ACDC) would restrict the flow rate (5 CFH on avg.) ever so slightly?
Thanks a TON I look forward to seeing what you have coming up video wise in the coming weeks as well with some more new products in your store! Cheers
Couldn't agree more. I bought a flow meter and when I tested at the cup there was a 5cfh difference
I personally like a smaller cup to try and minimize the etching around the weld, but as soon as you said that 20 usually works fine, my mind went to flow check/ regulator problem/ dirty gas. It really can be amazing sometimes how we just take it for fact that we’re welding at X amps, and Y flow when that really may not be the case. Great video👍🏻
I was having the same problem with my aluminum welds having peppering and contaminations in it until I bought a flow tube like the gentleman had and I've noticed two from my 12 ft TIG torch to my 25 ft tig torch there's always a variation in the flow and I never trust the meter on my regulator. Thank you for all the tips and tricks Jody keep up the good work and keep up the good videos. 👍👍👍👍👍 I also have a primeweld tig225x now for about 3 years with the water cooler w/flex-loc torch. It is been flawless not one problem.....
great to hear. thanks
I bet this is my problem, I'll need to get one of those torch flow meters.
TROUBLESHOOTING...
PRICELESS SKILL
THANKS BROTHERS
The Argon checker seems like a must have for a professional welder.
Thanks Jody! Learn something new every day useful in the real world
I loved it. I've been really getting into TID welding lately, and your content has really helped me in getting better, thanks Jody.
fantastic information Jody and Andrew......cheers from Orlando...Paul
Very interesting. I am learning, how to weld aluminium by myself and i am always glad, to get new input. Altough this argon is not cheap, i will give it a try and increase the flow next time.
You, This old Tony and AvE should get together and make a full length movie.
My flowmeter is off by about 15%.
Additionally I always add some extra gas volume when welding outside corners as I believe the shape of the aluminum splits the argon and it doesn't stay at the cup
Great point!
I really appreciate all the informative videos! Keep up the great content.
Thanks Jody great content the flow meter to see if the flow meter is accurate to real flow I had peppering in the puddle in the past this is not enough flow great stuff !
Very interesting and informative. Thanks Jody.
I worked on building powerline substation. We had 6" Aluminum schedule 80 round buss work with cast fittings. The welders started using a mixed gas for the aluminum and it helped a lot I don't remember the mix but I am pretty sure it had helium in it.
Helium-argon mix helps with penetration on thicker material. I believe the conventional mix ratio is 95% Argon and 5% Helium.
Jody, I have noticed in 5/32-0.160" & heavier 5052 & 5086 that a sheared or band sawed edge will introduce enough 'junk' to salt and pepper even high flow argon welds. I find that by sanding the plate edge or using a Vixen file and de-burring the edges of the plate will help to clean up the bead without having to go up to 40-50 ft^3/hr. to get full cleaning. Noticed one of the coupons in the video seemed to have a sheared edge (looks torn/grooved by saw teeth and not filed/sanded?) & that may contribute to the floating spots left on the bead?
good eye. Brad Goodman @deepsouthdimestacker on IG who welds lots and lots of dog boxes and other aluminum parts...visited the next day and we talked about edge prep and said the same thing you did. Next time, I need to be more thorough on edge prep for best results. thanks
+1 i found similar. even had the burr vaporize when the arc got anywhere near it.
Thanks Jody
Hold on a pea shooting what ? argon flow measurer. Great show mate keep up the good work.
Super le réglage de l'argon.
Merci
great lesson, thanks
Do u suggest this would be similar result for aluminium spool gun too?
could be. I have definitely struggled on certain spool guns with a lot of soot
@@weldingtipsandtricks I will definately try this! I know for a fact I use more cfh with my spool gun argon compared to normal mig argosheild mix.
I have never tried that high into the 30 range tho
Mornin Jody☕️
I’m going to go raise the ball and play.
Thanks ✌️
Obviously, flow rate makes a difference....but I would say that the outside corner splitting the flow is why that particular joint requires a higher flow rate. Do you carry/offer the flow rate testers by chance?
I dont currently have any testers on the store but I am looking for a supplier for good quality testers that are also affordable
@@weldingtipsandtricks I would like to have the CK flow tester, but it seems so overpriced. Hopefully you'll sell a tester that reads in scfh not l/min
What about clamping some steel angle iron around the joint to make a 90 degree canyon instead of the 270 degree peak? Or is the assumption just burn all the argon you want?
@@carpediemarts705 On their test piece that would be easy, in the shop on a real part you may not have that option due to the part configuration which may not allow clamp access
I tried cheap and expensive ball flow meters, but found out they are really not very accurate at all when testing flow on end of the tig torch with the test tube. Only one close to the setting on tank and torch end was flow meter supplied with Primeweld 225. On the rest I need add at least 7 CFH or more to get flow I need on the torch .
Correct yes.
I always use the standard 8 cup with 3.2, I tried the number 7 and other argon flows but for some reason it never feels right for me.
Balance settings -0.5 most of the time, if it ain't the settings ... then it will be me.
Same goes for 1.6 with cup 3.... 4 works better for me.
Jody, I love your work! At 3:56, you said that your 30 SCFH "probably wasn't really 30 SCFH." Can we infer that the next day, your friend's Pea Shooter registered a lower figure?
I can help buy noticing your back cap sits very proud of the torch head. Maybe the o-ring in the back cap wasn't sealing properly? Also, I know the clear cups are good for arc shots and for "lightning up the path" as you say, but I kind of hate them. I loved "fancy" cups, gas lenses, and all, when I was beginning. Now I run pretty much everything on standard consumables, except for stainless intrincate work like manifolds and such, where I love a jazzy #10.
Maybe it's the outside angle that accentuates the issue?
Good video. I've noticed similar results. I've also noticed that the flow checked at the nozzle is less than the meter shows at the tank, sometimes as much as 7 or 8 cfh. I've double checked for leaks. So has to be losing flow going through the hose and fittings and/or differences in the flow meters.
Your measuring FLOW NOT Pressure so you CANT loose some flow through restrictions other than Leaks.
@@N1gel which is why I said the flow meters could be reading differently
Awesome knowledge thank you
I need that pee shooter, where can i buy, or how to make. Been looking for a way to verify flowrate at the torch, seems like my flow is down.
you can get them from arc zone.com or amazon but make sure to get one that has the right increments . cfh or lpm . I should have some listed on weldmongerstore.com/ soon
@weldingtipsandtricks thanks jody, you da man.💪
Tungsten stick out plays a big part on open corners. You had too much stickout for me. Lower the stickout and you’ll be able to run it with the same results at 15-20cfh
I dont normally use that much stickout but if I dont, the cup blocks the puddle.
I agree that corners make a difference...for a tee joint, would have been fine at 15-20cfh
Jody, do you know/recommend any apps to help with welding? Such as type of metal, process, settings, gases? I have the books, but sure would save time to have a machine for hobbyist that you just input, and it sets it. Ofcourse, you videos are excellent too! LOL...
the "miller welding calculator app" can help get you in the ball park but settings for mig are based on flat and horizontal fillet welds and are often too hot for anything else. but it can be really helpful for things like spool gun welding to get you close
@@weldingtipsandtricksthis one needs repeating.
Peashooter FTW!
I don’t even bother looking on the flow meter
I always run my cfh around 30 for pretty much everything
Why are you using a #7 cup on 1/8" Aluminum. How bout trying a #5 standard next time.
At low argon flow, could it just be ambient oxygen contaminating the puddle?
AWESOME!
I see the issue. At 15 you aren’t at 15cfh, you were still at 12.5.
Most are set to the bottom of the float ball. Not the middle of it.
thats interesting. most literature I have read from flowmeter brands indicate center of ball or top of ball. where did you read bottom?
@@weldingtipsandtricks Top or bottom , it will change your relation with gas flow , for sure
The diameter of the ball looks to be between 4 and 5 CFH, so that makes a lot of sense.
It really does'nt matter unless a specific flow rate is externally mandated as the manometer is only used as a reference measurement.
Jodi is measuring his flow rate compared to his many years of experience and to other joints, not to an SI (System International) metric.
The calibration of the manometer is totally arbitary. The manometer could be calibrated in apples & strawberries for all it matters, so long as the torch always has a flow rate of xxx strawberries thats all that matters.
Its a starting guide for the operator to set a baseline and use skill to progress from there.
mystery....
I would like to have seen the other side of the experiment.
Keep the argon flow at 15 cfm and keep the 90 degree outside corner and adjust the cup size (& type even better).
I percieve the normal 15 cfm gas to be exit the torch and hit the 90 deg angle so the gas rushes away at 45 degrees faster than on the flat surface where I guess the gas hits at approx 180 degrees and bounces out & up, keeping a ball of gas turbulant around the weld pool.
I suspect your increasing the gas flow rate is simply forcing a thicker stream of gas to form as it rushes away at 45 degrees from the corner.
So I think your same 15 cfm and a larger cup size will allow a wider gas area immediately in front of the nozel and hence a slower escape of gas down the 45 degree sides of the joint thereby making the effective gas thickness & coverage area greater.
Ie producing the same gas coverage over the weld pool as you got by increasing the gas flow rate but with a larger cup wasting less gas?
definitely room for further testing. I did discover my flowmeter was way off tho.
@@weldingtipsandtricks Hi Jodi.
If your manometer is way off calibration that begs the question "a sudden bang" or "gradual degredation"?
A sudden bang, I would have thought you would have heard a change in the sound of gasflow.
But if its degredational, why the sudden lack of cleaning as it should be similarly getting worse by the day/month etc.
Good luck.
Thanks.