Face melting intro!!!!! Love it! great work and thanks again. I have some door work to do to my 67 Fairlane. I am in the process of replacing the entire floor pan. Keep the videos coming, They are great for a beginner like me.
@@67fairlane12 Washburn KC70V with a Crate MX20RC practice amp. It's got reverb and chorus so it gives it a bit of a cool sound. I've always wanted to try Fender or Marshall amps but too much $
If you are talking about the contour on the ends - After clamping it on the bottom and tacking it on the top, the contour of the patch was set - then by cutting those reliefs in the metal, all I did was tap those little sections over, weld the "cuts" up, and tap it around a bit to get it right on. I will do more videos on this topic though and show that process. Good suggestion :)
Very informative series about patch panels! I have been practicing my butt welds for patches. I put a very slight beveled edge (18guage or thicker) on the outside mating edge with the cut slag left on the backside. Putting a bevel on the outside keeps the weld low profile while still penetrating cleanly saves grinding consumables as well. This has helped tremendously with thru penetration (provided your gap is no more than a 16th") if you cannot get the mig gun on the backside of the panel. Afterwards.. a light brush of 2k epoxy primer on the backside aids in providing rust protection.. i like your method of cooling your panels with a damp rag too. That is my "go to" way to do things now.!
I love your work, your style of work ,very practical. You are exceptionally good at education. You should have an affiliate link so I can just buy the tools you're using
When ever you want to know exactly what I was using in a video feel free to ask. Many of the tools I use though are pretty old and are no longer available but I think I can guide you to a good substitute. Jerry
Thank you for the awesome videos!! I recently found some rust the fire wall my 2007 2500hd GMC Sierra. The rust is a result of Battery acid overflow. I neutralized the rust with baking soda paste and rinse. There is a battery support bracket spot welded into the fire wall. At the bottom of this bracket is where the rust begins- there is rust between the bracket and fire wall. How do I remove the bracket to cure the rust without messing is the fire wall? God bless, John.
Maybe this video could help you - ruclips.net/video/hkESVLqypLc/видео.html The teeth break easy though. There are other types too. God Bless you too :)
Really appreciate you sharing your autobody knowledge. I need to make some patch panels and I'm curious on the thickness of the sheet metal you use?? Thanks, Brian in Oregon
@@FJ40Brian That was 20 gauge. I like stuff around .030. Anything from 20 to 22 gauge is good. It's up to the individual though. Thinner stuff you can work with a little easier. Thicker stuff obviously lasts longer. Jerry
For a beginner, is it better to go with fiberglass, or a patch panel like this one? My car is a 2004 Toyota Corolla. It has 2 spots of rust, on the rocker panels near the rear wheels. They are both about 4 inches wide by 3 inches high. It's surface rust, not all the way through. I'm good with my hands; so I'm okay with doing detail work.
What's the best way to match the contour of the outer top portion of a truck bed that has ridges? My 1988 GMC K1500 got crushed in by a tree and I'd love to fix it without buying a whole bed or bedside.
Here's a video that may help: ruclips.net/video/sStbeOOgyD8/видео.html Watch this playlist for more on bodyline too: ruclips.net/p/PLOP9eoG14-I_dTwNiWP5XJCitguFJzZEZ
Nice work and video! Sorry if I missed it, but no weld through primer? If those seams are raw metal the rust will come right back. And painting inside the door afterwards won't get into those folded over seams and sandwich lap joints... but the water will.
Many manufacturers like Honda a recommending no weld through as it affects the weld pool and burns off any way which I completely agree with. It's best to treat the finished repair afterwards: ruclips.net/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/видео.html Hope that helps a bit :)
Where do you get your sheet metal? And what gouge do you normally use for rust repair? Thankyou for making awesome tutorial videos. Really enjoying them.
Haha I've been doing this forever, I get metal anywhere. Metal supply places , even an old car door or hood, look around you'd be surprised where you can find some metal. I've got a stack of file cabinet organizers that are about .080 thick ,great stuff for floor patches. You can't even lift the milk crate that's full of them. I might not be great at the finish bodywork,but I like cutting out rust and putting metal back.
Absolutely - that's what we used a lot in shops I worked at besides door bottoms that were bought. Really the only reason I buy sheet metal now is because I don't have a supply of scrap fenders, hoods, quarters, etc.
great vid! I was wondering, are you self taught, or did you. get professional training. sometime in your life! all your vids are very educational! thanks and keep them coming!!!!
My dad was a body man - then he had me out in the garage painting cars from like 13-18 then I got a job a professional shop or jobs and learned from the guys and bosses. Finally, got certified to teach it (MOCAC) from Ferris State in MI
@@LakesideAutobody the indoor where the door card is? Below that where the outter panel wraps around the pinch holding both pieces together. From the corner of the door about a quarter of that is bad. I can find outter panel for my dodge but no inner bottom pieces.
I'm just here for the great advice... I still have rust repair to do and I like your videos. Great info. I'm not sure if I missed it. What guage metal did you use for that panel? Throwing out a wild guess at 18.
That is 20 gauge A1008 cold rolled sheet from Alro Steel. You can use anything from 20 gauge (.035") to 22 gauge (.030"). 40's 50's cars were thicker - not sure what gauge though.
@@LakesideAutobody Gotcha. Well, specifically, I'm interested in my truck which is a 69 and that metal you were using formed a lot easier than mine has. My motorcycle uses 16 so I'm guessing mine in 18 then. That 20 looks super nice to work with.
@@RIPbiker13 I've always used around that thickness on everything and never had a problem. Here's a couple of videos that may help you decide. ruclips.net/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/видео.html or ruclips.net/video/2o37dX--w0I/видео.html One more thing, If you can measure the thickness of the metal on your 69 truck, I can tell you the gauge. Match it up w/ a feeler gauge if you don't have a micrometer. Jerry
Miller Millermatic 90 115v - I actually welded an eye of a leaf spring after it broke right off. Drove on it for years after the repair. It's very powerful for being so small and portable.
Anything from 20-22 gauge -.030-.035 inches. That stuff was A1008 cold rolled sheet from Alro Steel - 20 gauge. Most cars and trucks fall in that range. Old cars 40s and 50s probably way thicker.
That's 20 gauge A1008 cold rolled carbon sheet metal from Alro Steel. I like 20-22 gauge sheet metal. Thinner is easier to work with - thicker - i suppose would last longer. 20 = .035 & 22 = .030 - so they're actually not that diff. Jerry
Lakeside Autobody you may have covered it somewhere else but can you please run down your sanding grit steps right from removing old paint to applying new paint. I assume 60 grit, filler, cheese grater, 60 grit,80, primer, 220,320,400, paint?
@@patrickchristie82 Sure: 40 grit fiber resin disc on a grinder to remove paint and prepare metal for welding or filler. 40 grit to sand filler then finish it with 80 to remove those deep 40's. Feather edge the paint - start with 80 sometimes to knock it down a bit then 120 and scuff the shinny paint that may get primer over spray. Block with 80 big giant areas or 120 smaller - finish it to 120 though. Prime again wet sand w/ 400 or dry sand w 220-320 - then paint _ Hope that helps - Jerry
Another nice informative video - a Natural communicator and teacher ! Thank-you for all your good work !
Thanks Fergus - I appreciate your kind words - have a great weekend :)
You’re the trailblazer of these RUclips autobody repair channel. Good to see another video. Always learn something 😊 JR
Thanks for the kind words Star Lite - I appreciate that. Enjoy the rest of the week my friend :)
Face melting intro!!!!! Love it! great work and thanks again. I have some door work to do to my 67 Fairlane. I am in the process of replacing the entire floor pan. Keep the videos coming, They are great for a beginner like me.
Also, What is your guitar rig?
@@67fairlane12 Washburn KC70V with a Crate MX20RC practice amp. It's got reverb and chorus so it gives it a bit of a cool sound. I've always wanted to try Fender or Marshall amps but too much $
Great work, wish you would have shown how to make the contour
If you are talking about the contour on the ends - After clamping it on the bottom and tacking it on the top, the contour of the patch was set - then by cutting those reliefs in the metal, all I did was tap those little sections over, weld the "cuts" up, and tap it around a bit to get it right on. I will do more videos on this topic though and show that process. Good suggestion :)
Very informative series about patch panels! I have been practicing my butt welds for patches. I put a very slight beveled edge (18guage or thicker) on the outside mating edge with the cut slag left on the backside. Putting a bevel on the outside keeps the weld low profile while still penetrating cleanly saves grinding consumables as well. This has helped tremendously with thru penetration (provided your gap is no more than a 16th") if you cannot get the mig gun on the backside of the panel. Afterwards.. a light brush of 2k epoxy primer on the backside aids in providing rust protection.. i like your method of cooling your panels with a damp rag too. That is my "go to" way to do things now.!
Very cool. That's good to hear. I like the video about this that Eastwood made too. :)
ace.....i just checked out all your channel...sooo much i can learn for my mamouth task repairing my van up !!thanks
I'm glad you enjoy the channel - you came to the right place. Ask any ? you want - I answer them each day :)
You make it look so easy! LOL! Thank you for your great videos!
You're welcome - glad you liked it - have a great weekend :)
I love your work, your style of work ,very practical. You are exceptionally good at education. You should have an affiliate link so I can just buy the tools you're using
When ever you want to know exactly what I was using in a video feel free to ask. Many of the tools I use though are pretty old and are no longer available but I think I can guide you to a good substitute. Jerry
Thank you for the awesome videos!!
I recently found some rust the fire wall my 2007 2500hd GMC Sierra. The rust is a result of Battery acid overflow. I neutralized the rust with baking soda paste and rinse. There is a battery support bracket spot welded into the fire wall. At the bottom of this bracket is where the rust begins- there is rust between the bracket and fire wall. How do I remove the bracket to cure the rust without messing is the fire wall?
God bless,
John.
Maybe this video could help you - ruclips.net/video/hkESVLqypLc/видео.html The teeth break easy though. There are other types too. God Bless you too :)
you always make it look easy. nice video.
Thanks - have a great week :)
Nice quick repair!
I really like your videos. They are easy to use.
Glad you like them :)
Do you have a video showing how you did the inner door panel?
This might help you out - ruclips.net/video/92mr0C62tq0/видео.html
Great stuff. I need to get back to a garage so I do this stuff again.
Thanks - Yep, get back out there :)
Really appreciate you sharing your autobody knowledge. I need to make some patch panels and I'm curious on the thickness of the sheet metal you use?? Thanks, Brian in Oregon
You're welcome - glad you enjoy them - take care.
What is the metal thickness of the sheet metal?
@@FJ40Brian 1mm for body work would be good most car Now a day's are about 0.8mm, floor would be at least 1mm
@@FJ40Brian That was 20 gauge. I like stuff around .030. Anything from 20 to 22 gauge is good. It's up to the individual though. Thinner stuff you can work with a little easier. Thicker stuff obviously lasts longer. Jerry
@Lakeside Autobody what kind of steel do you use? Cold rolled,hot ect?
Great video Jerry as always 👍🏾
Thanks UPK - have a good week
Lakeside Autobody thanks Jerry...you have a good week too and stay safe
For a beginner, is it better to go with fiberglass, or a patch panel like this one?
My car is a 2004 Toyota Corolla. It has 2 spots of rust, on the rocker panels near the rear wheels. They are both about 4 inches wide by 3 inches high. It's surface rust, not all the way through.
I'm good with my hands; so I'm okay with doing detail work.
What's the best way to match the contour of the outer top portion of a truck bed that has ridges? My 1988 GMC K1500 got crushed in by a tree and I'd love to fix it without buying a whole bed or bedside.
Here's a video that may help: ruclips.net/video/sStbeOOgyD8/видео.html Watch this playlist for more on bodyline too: ruclips.net/p/PLOP9eoG14-I_dTwNiWP5XJCitguFJzZEZ
@@LakesideAutobody Awesome! Thank you!!!! Love your channel!
@@michaelstreck0925 You're welcome - glad you enjoy the videos. Thanks for the support Michael.
Always enjoy watching you work stay safe.
Thanks - you too - I think we're almost out of the woods - just my thoughts - Jerry
Nice work and video! Sorry if I missed it, but no weld through primer? If those seams are raw metal the rust will come right back. And painting inside the door afterwards won't get into those folded over seams and sandwich lap joints... but the water will.
Many manufacturers like Honda a recommending no weld through as it affects the weld pool and burns off any way which I completely agree with. It's best to treat the finished repair afterwards: ruclips.net/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/видео.html Hope that helps a bit :)
Where do you get your sheet metal? And what gouge do you normally use for rust repair?
Thankyou for making awesome tutorial videos. Really enjoying them.
I get it from Alro Steel and use 20-22 gauge for rust repair. Have a good weekend :)
Haha I've been doing this forever, I get metal anywhere.
Metal supply places , even an old car door or hood, look around you'd be surprised where you can find some metal.
I've got a stack of file cabinet organizers that are about .080 thick ,great stuff for floor patches.
You can't even lift the milk crate that's full of them.
I might not be great at the finish bodywork,but I like cutting out rust and putting metal back.
Are the side edges of the panel just bent and folded over, then welded?
Yes - at about a 45 degree angle. Would really help to have a good tool of some kind for that task :)
JERRY
WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT USING AUTO & TRUCK ROOFs. AS PATCH
PANELS CUT UP FOR REPAIRS.
GOOD. VIDEOS
Absolutely - that's what we used a lot in shops I worked at besides door bottoms that were bought. Really the only reason I buy sheet metal now is because I don't have a supply of scrap fenders, hoods, quarters, etc.
gotta love that Marshall 2x12 combo Amp
Cutting with shears, you even get a free spring you can use for something 🤪🤪
Good... How thick a sheet metal do you use for modern car body repair? 22, 20 or 18 gauge? Thanks!
20 (.035) or 22 (.030)
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks!
Nice clean work
Thanks
I really like your videos👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍🙋♂️🙋♂️
Thanks BDF - I appreciate your comment :)
What universal gage metal is best to work with?
20 or 22 gauge. That's the go to when it comes to patches and patch panels :)
Thanks for the great videos
You're welcome
Nicely done Bud!! The rest of that door is pretty rough eh!!☺
Yes it is :)
great vid! I was wondering, are you self taught, or did you. get professional training. sometime in your life! all your vids are very educational! thanks and keep them coming!!!!
My dad was a body man - then he had me out in the garage painting cars from like 13-18 then I got a job a professional shop or jobs and learned from the guys and bosses. Finally, got certified to teach it (MOCAC) from Ferris State in MI
Awesome video man! This is very helpful! Subscribed! =)
Thanks - glad you liked it and thanks for subscribing - Jerry
Thank you Brian very informative
You're welcome
Thanks great video perfectly explain.
You're welcome Fidel :)
Great idea with the tape thanks
You're welcome
Have you done the in door part?
I'm not sure what you mean by that. Could you ask in a different way - sorry :)
@@LakesideAutobody the indoor where the door card is? Below that where the outter panel wraps around the pinch holding both pieces together. From the corner of the door about a quarter of that is bad. I can find outter panel for my dodge but no inner bottom pieces.
@@BigBarnV1 Got it. Here's a video that may help with that - ruclips.net/video/92mr0C62tq0/видео.html
Yes thank you appreciate it 👍👍👍👍
No problem 👍
Hello What gauge of Metal did you use ?
That's 20 gauge or .035"
How thick of metal do you use
That metal is 20 gauge but 22 gauge is fine too. 22 gauge is around .030" and 20 gauge is about .035"
Did I just witness the invention of the Tape Measure. Sorry couldn't resist.
A tape measure on the edge of a door. Hmmm... Could come in handy on a fisherman's car.
I'm just here for the great advice... I still have rust repair to do and I like your videos. Great info.
I'm not sure if I missed it. What guage metal did you use for that panel? Throwing out a wild guess at 18.
That is 20 gauge A1008 cold rolled sheet from Alro Steel. You can use anything from 20 gauge (.035") to 22 gauge (.030"). 40's 50's cars were thicker - not sure what gauge though.
@@LakesideAutobody Gotcha. Well, specifically, I'm interested in my truck which is a 69 and that metal you were using formed a lot easier than mine has. My motorcycle uses 16 so I'm guessing mine in 18 then. That 20 looks super nice to work with.
@@RIPbiker13 I've always used around that thickness on everything and never had a problem. Here's a couple of videos that may help you decide. ruclips.net/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/видео.html or
ruclips.net/video/2o37dX--w0I/видео.html
One more thing, If you can measure the thickness of the metal on your 69 truck, I can tell you the gauge. Match it up w/ a feeler gauge if you don't have a micrometer. Jerry
What type of welder do you have?
Miller Millermatic 90 115v - I actually welded an eye of a leaf spring after it broke right off. Drove on it for years after the repair. It's very powerful for being so small and portable.
what gauge metal do you use to make your panels ?
Anything from 20-22 gauge -.030-.035 inches. That stuff was A1008 cold rolled sheet from Alro Steel - 20 gauge. Most cars and trucks fall in that range. Old cars 40s and 50s probably way thicker.
Great video! Are you using 22 gauge aluminized steel?
That's 20 gauge A1008 cold rolled carbon sheet metal from Alro Steel. I like 20-22 gauge sheet metal. Thinner is easier to work with - thicker - i suppose would last longer. 20 = .035 & 22 = .030 - so they're actually not that diff. Jerry
I tried to do this on a Chevy square body truck door. I warped it terribly
Take it one weld at a time and alternate. You don't really have to weld solid either :)
@@LakesideAutobody ok because I did weld it solid but went back each time between welds. I’ll try it again. Thanybyou
Great channel! Glad I came across it,just sub.👍
Thanks - glad you like it
Thickness of the metal sheet n wielder use
20 gauge. 22 gauge can be used too.
I love that you don’t have thousands of dollars in tools like press break or fancy 45 degree pliers
Thanks - I planned on having a bunch of cool stuff when I was 18 but......
Lakeside Autobody you may have covered it somewhere else but can you please run down your sanding grit steps right from removing old paint to applying new paint. I assume 60 grit, filler, cheese grater, 60 grit,80, primer, 220,320,400, paint?
@@patrickchristie82 Sure: 40 grit fiber resin disc on a grinder to remove paint and prepare metal for welding or filler. 40 grit to sand filler then finish it with 80 to remove those deep 40's. Feather edge the paint - start with 80 sometimes to knock it down a bit then 120 and scuff the shinny paint that may get primer over spray. Block with 80 big giant areas or 120 smaller - finish it to 120 though. Prime again wet sand w/ 400 or dry sand w 220-320 - then paint _ Hope that helps - Jerry
Lakeside Autobody thank you very much
@@patrickchristie82 You're welcome - any ?'s feel free. Jerry
W
Thank you for the reply