You need to weld the hole seam shut, and after you grind the weld down . Put a bright light behind the panel, and look for pin holes. Weld the pin holes shut. If you don't get all the holes sealed up you will get rust blisters within a year. Moisture is in the air. It will find the pin holes. That's why putting just body filler over a rust hole doesn't work. Body filler absorbs Moisture. If you are going through all the work of welding a patch on. You might as. Well do it all the way, and get a lasting repair out of it.
Great vid. I’ve always used a bucket of water and a wet and dry rag and back step welding to control heat spread/ warpage. But “stitching” works well too, and it’s not always necessary to have a full weld when you can plug weld or stitch weld and use sealer and filler.
HEY. JERRY, IT'S been awhile, I'm seeing this the 1st week of 2023. Hope you had a Happy Christmas and a Merry New Year . Great video , YOU had me laughing at the end of the video where you pulled back to show the complete door . I was expecting to see a nice door but it was dented and wrinkled just above the midline . That was GREAT. ! I wish you good health and prosperity in 23 , I'm still recovering and HOPE to get back to restoring my 70 Boss 429 this year , Lord Willing . As usual, keep up the good work , I'll keep watching. Al.
Hi Al - great to hear from you my friend. I'm looking forward to hearing that you began work on your car - let me know when you get to it. That's one great looking car. That's one of my favorite body styles along with the AMX, Mach 1 and 71/72 Satellite/Roadrunner. I wish you good health and great new year too - God bless 😊🛠
That'd be great as long as you were able to clean the surface real well before applying. Otherwise if moisture does get behind the sealer it gets trapped. That happens a lot with factory floor board seams, Seam sealer is great stuff though - stays a bit flexible
The best would be to sand blast the back side and undercoat it. If you can 't access it see this video: ruclips.net/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/видео.html Today there are a lot of ways to prevent rust from the inside of the panel - wax based system, rubberized undercoat, penetrol, even linseed oil. I find used motor oil works best for me 'cause its free but you just have to find what you personally like best for your situation. Hope that helps
Awesome vid but have a question. Would you just butt the pieces up? Or you and panel flanger tool?? What would be wiser for 1st timer??? Keep up the great vids
Either way works fine. I always prefer to lap though. It's much easier, faster, and you can fix anything no mater what shape or difficulty. Every body shop lap welds. Panel flange is fine too though. It's really what is easiest and works best for you. As a first timer I'd go with lap :)
@@LakesideAutobody Interesting - I've never tried the putty but I have used compressed air or damp rags. Lately I've been trying a tip I saw on another channel of using strips of paper towel. Not the kitchen kind - the more durable lint-free body shop or the blue shop kind - so you can soak them then wring most of the water out. These damp strips even stick to vertical surfaces and it is easy to wet them again by dabbing the strips with a wadded-up soaked paper towel.
.023 wire, 1 or 2 for volts with 20-22 gauge sheet metal. Usually 2 but if I'm welding a patch it to something thinner 1. 32-33 wire feed speed for setting 1 and around 40 for setting 2. 20 CFH gas. Hope that helps - Jerry
Yes, that helps me out quite a bit. I have a 66 Chevelle that I need to do some rust repair on. Your videos are very informative. You should have a lot more subscribers than you do. Thank You Eric
After you weld, you use a body hammer (point side) and tap the welds down. Grind the area clean, finish it with body filler, prime, block sand, and paint. Here's a couple examples of cars with a lot of rust repair and you could never find the seams or the filler. ruclips.net/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/видео.html or ruclips.net/video/2o37dX--w0I/видео.html
I've never used anything but Miller - so I can't say. But... I've had very good luck with HF tools so give it a good chance. I don't think they would sell a welder that flat out doesn't work. If it's flux core wire though that's different - I tried that in my welder once and didn't like it at all - but I may not have given it a good enough chance. Jerry
I don't understand why you didn't weld the entire seam, short of cutting corners and saving time and materials. The patch will not be nearly as secure as the original sheet metal would have been.. If i was caught doing something like that on any panel I've sectioned together I'd lose my job.
Yes you can weld the entire seam if you prefer. I have great luck both ways - solid seam or spacing. The reason is the seam is upside down on the inside like a shingle and doesn't hold water or moisture (always stays dry) - no worries. Hope that makes sense :)
You won't get hardly any warpage if you just put a spot weld every 6 inches or so down the panel, then repeat next to those previously done and before you know it, you're done.
You need to weld the hole seam shut, and after you grind the weld down .
Put a bright light behind the panel, and look for pin holes. Weld the pin holes shut. If you don't get all the holes sealed up you will get rust blisters within a year.
Moisture is in the air. It will find the pin holes. That's why putting just body filler over a rust hole doesn't work.
Body filler absorbs Moisture.
If you are going through all the work of welding a patch on. You might as. Well do it all the way, and get a lasting repair out of it.
Great vid. I’ve always used a bucket of water and a wet and dry rag and back step welding to control heat spread/ warpage. But “stitching” works well too, and it’s not always necessary to have a full weld when you can plug weld or stitch weld and use sealer and filler.
HEY. JERRY,
IT'S been awhile, I'm seeing this the 1st week of 2023. Hope you had a Happy
Christmas and a Merry New Year .
Great video , YOU had me laughing at the end of the video where you pulled back to show the complete door . I was expecting to see a nice door but it was dented and wrinkled just above the midline . That was GREAT. !
I wish you good health and prosperity in 23 , I'm still recovering and HOPE to get back to restoring my 70 Boss 429 this year , Lord Willing .
As usual, keep up the good work , I'll keep watching.
Al.
Hi Al - great to hear from you my friend. I'm looking forward to hearing that you began work on your car - let me know when you get to it. That's one great looking car. That's one of my favorite body styles along with the AMX, Mach 1 and 71/72 Satellite/Roadrunner. I wish you good health and great new year too - God bless 😊🛠
Another great video! I really enjoy your videos. Especially after working from home for the last 4 weeks. Thanks! 👍🇺🇲🍻
You're welcome
Haha same here
The jedi master has done it again. Looks great
Thanks - have a good week end :)
Thank you for making very informative videos.
You're welcome
You make it look so easy Jerry...great video!
Thanks
Always look forward to your next video. Thanks for all the information you share.
You're welcome - glad you like them
Very nice I used this same process on my dart for the quarter panel skins........ but I used a blow gun in between to cool the panel down to.
Good idea
Excellent video... As they all are.... Thanks...
You're welcome - have a good week my friend :)
neatly done and as always very informative thanks for sharing
You're welcome
Do inside to out on either side and usually 3 to 4 shots tops in each spot it will never warp .
Thanks, for another great video.
You're welcome
Hell yeah. Great tips! Thanks again
You're welcome - have a great week end
Great job very neat. Would it be worth using some seam sealer on the back if you can get at it. Or is that just belt and braces over the top
That'd be great as long as you were able to clean the surface real well before applying. Otherwise if moisture does get behind the sealer it gets trapped. That happens a lot with factory floor board seams, Seam sealer is great stuff though - stays a bit flexible
Do you have any tips or videos on plug/spot welding upside down. Very difficult. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
I don't - but great idea for a video. I'll write that down.
Are you applying etch primer to back-side of weld to coat? Whats your process for back-side after patch/repair?
The best would be to sand blast the back side and undercoat it. If you can 't access it see this video: ruclips.net/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/видео.html Today there are a lot of ways to prevent rust from the inside of the panel - wax based system, rubberized undercoat, penetrol, even linseed oil. I find used motor oil works best for me 'cause its free but you just have to find what you personally like best for your situation. Hope that helps
Awesome vid but have a question. Would you just butt the pieces up? Or you and panel flanger tool?? What would be wiser for 1st timer??? Keep up the great vids
Either way works fine. I always prefer to lap though. It's much easier, faster, and you can fix anything no mater what shape or difficulty. Every body shop lap welds. Panel flange is fine too though. It's really what is easiest and works best for you. As a first timer I'd go with lap :)
Love ur videos
Thanks -have a good week end
Thank you very much.
Heat damming putty helps too.
Good point
@@LakesideAutobody Interesting - I've never tried the putty but I have used compressed air or damp rags. Lately I've been trying a tip I saw on another channel of using strips of paper towel. Not the kitchen kind - the more durable lint-free body shop or the blue shop kind - so you can soak them then wring most of the water out. These damp strips even stick to vertical surfaces and it is easy to wet them again by dabbing the strips with a wadded-up soaked paper towel.
Can you show the rest of the process, such as tapping down the metal?
Check out this vid @ 14:24. Sorry I need to have a video specifically on that topic - maybe - Hit it Low an Fill it with Dough" - :)
there many ways to MIG weld a long bead, the most important is TAKE YOUR TIME and don't concentrate the heat on one area.
Good point - have a good week end
Nice work. What were the settings on your Mig welder? I have a Miller 211 so I know that it will be different. Just curious.
.023 wire, 1 or 2 for volts with 20-22 gauge sheet metal. Usually 2 but if I'm welding a patch it to something thinner 1. 32-33 wire feed speed for setting 1 and around 40 for setting 2. 20 CFH gas. Hope that helps - Jerry
Yes, that helps me out quite a bit. I have a 66 Chevelle that I need to do some rust repair on. Your videos are very informative. You should have a lot more subscribers than you do.
Thank You
Eric
I am not a panel beater, but if you are looking for a concours level finish, how can you join two panels so that the seam can not be discerned?
After you weld, you use a body hammer (point side) and tap the welds down. Grind the area clean, finish it with body filler, prime, block sand, and paint. Here's a couple examples of cars with a lot of rust repair and you could never find the seams or the filler. ruclips.net/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/видео.html or
ruclips.net/video/2o37dX--w0I/видео.html
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you for the reply.
@@sociopathicnarcissist8810 You're welcome
I have a harbor freight 100 dollar welder.do you think itsa good enough.or should i upgrade
I've never used anything but Miller - so I can't say. But... I've had very good luck with HF tools so give it a good chance. I don't think they would sell a welder that flat out doesn't work. If it's flux core wire though that's different - I tried that in my welder once and didn't like it at all - but I may not have given it a good enough chance. Jerry
I don't understand why you didn't weld the entire seam, short of cutting corners and saving time and materials. The patch will not be nearly as secure as the original sheet metal would have been.. If i was caught doing something like that on any panel I've sectioned together I'd lose my job.
Yes you can weld the entire seam if you prefer. I have great luck both ways - solid seam or spacing. The reason is the seam is upside down on the inside like a shingle and doesn't hold water or moisture (always stays dry) - no worries. Hope that makes sense :)
What do you mean tap and fill?
That means to tap the seam down and fill with body filler - this video shows how to do that: ruclips.net/video/ZgAA4PD8EUs/видео.html
⚡️🎸🤘🏻🎸⚡️👨🏻🏭 ⚡️💨💨💨
Glad you enjoyed it!
You won't get hardly any warpage if you just put a spot weld every 6 inches or so down the panel, then repeat next to those previously done and before you know it, you're done.
Good tip Greg :)
do I need to ware a welding mask while watching this video?
♨️🌡🤔