They're quite a bit bigger than I expected. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxb-KpJPmXtqM2xdYLP72ICq6QCcD0V8e7 If you ever had an air king round tilting fan, these are basically the same thing but in a window shroud. There's quite a few reviews about them being out of balance. I can say that mine pretty close to balanced. I purchased two of them for cooling my shop during my crypto operation. One intake, one exhaust. Combined they're moving over 7K CFM which is plenty for my 20x30 shop. If it helps you comprehend just how much air they move, both of them on intake and it's incredibly hard to close the door on my shop. The prescribed dimensions are accurate, they barely fit in my small windows.
finally someone in the uk doing good clear videos on this sort of thing. been looking for something like this for ages! im planning to do this only using my pull cord light switch for my bathroom ceiling light (4 led spot lights) and take a feed from that circuit to power a larger high volume extractor fan mounted in the attic, which will then vent through a soffet vent. well, thats the plan anyway!
Just the best help you can get , have done a bit of diy but without this video I would have struggled on my own , many thanks fan is now up and running , cheers .
Great explanation of terminology and how the live from the loop is fed via the neutral from the wall switch - i.o.w. the neutral from the wall switch is only neutral when the switch is off, and is LIVE when the switch is on!
brilliant video but the detailed instructions in a layman's terms are a great help, I'm a builder with limited knowledge of the current electrical regulations as they keep changing, but for day to say wiring I thank you for your detailed video.keep up the good work
Hi pouse, thank you for the advise to which I'll have a go at but would sooner see how you do it on here, I've been in the building trade for many years but electrics is just not my thing. Brilliant videos. Thanks Ray.
Hi Ray, really appreciate the great feedback. Video almost done. Probably publish next week. I'm more a jack of all trades master of none!! Thanks again for watching.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE hi your diagram shows two wires for a light switch but some bathroom switches have four (L&N in, L&N out) as per link below. How does that change the diagram, and how do you get all those wires (and the wiring for the fan isolator) into a ridiculously small junction box - is there a "knack" to it? www.toolstation.com/bg-screwless-flat-plate-brushed-stainless-steel-20a-dp-switch/p85449
Well busy weekend down lights in and fan installed pull string gone new switch in, just waiting for fan isolator tomorrow then a few holes to fill and paint, your videos are brilliant thank you. 👍
Thank you for the video, just fitted a DX100 and found this very helpful. My original wiring was slightly different, but this guide helped me to work it out.
Hi Marco, glad the vid helped. I'm not keen on doing the long vids either but sometimes it's the only way to show it all. Good luck and thanks for watching!
My extractor screams randomly. Sometimes it's quiet and other times when I switch the light on the thing whirrs and screeches getting louder and louder until I pull the switch again. Is it dust build up or dodgy bearings or do I need a new unit? It's quite the unique sound, a bit like a car doing a burnout and it seems to do it only at night when it pisses my neighbours off the most.
Hi Neil, sounds like the bearings so you may need a new unit, but while the unit is off, give it a good hoover and suck all the dust out of it. Also check that the vent isn't blocked outside as if it is, then the fan will have to work harder. Good luck with it, and thanks for watching!
This worked a treat, believe it or not my friend who is a qualified spark but been working with Siemens Renewables over 15yrs now, he told me that the Grey was the Switched Live and Black Neutral... Didn't quite feel right, done some reading and checking out diagrams then found this, so for all the bollocks on here from obvious tradesmen scaremongering and feeling the pinch, this guy uploading a vid, doesn't scream "fkn do this now!" He knows if we've went as far as check out vids on it, we've pretty much made our minds up that we've got our head set in doing it anyway but just looking for guidance.. If I zapped myself, took some Sith lightning, I can't blame this guy, electricity is dangerous, its serious, we know this, do we take precautions, yes, do we go it on one video alone without reading up, checking wiring diagrams and reaching for a multimeter? No!... I for one found this to be extremely helpful... If you guys with the knowledge and training want to help, charge a fair price! £80 for a light to get fitted is among the jokes I've heard, it's not rocket fkn science, follow good safety protocols and you'll get there, want to come on and rip into the ones who dare to take money out your loot sack, erm! Wallet sorry... don't blame us or the uploader, blame the tories, these are after all austere times... Thanks for the upload, massive help, i'm fine with electric showers, sockets, switches but this was my first replacement extractor...
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE You're very welcome sir, a lot of ultra critical comments on here from folk not quite grasping that you are only offering guidance, all work is done at our own risk as it is with any electrical work and that still goes even for the qualified electrician. I subbed, will be able to use some of your guidance in future coupled with the usual reading up i do on wiring diagrams, following installation instructions on the electrical item being installed and above all, power off at RCD Box, we all know that if RCD trips on power on, THEN we'll resort to being fleeced by an independent spark... Thanks again for your help Gav
Loving your videos but I had a question regarding the Wagos. At 7:32 you put the switch live going to the extractor fan into a Wago block with two connectors. Why didnt you use a Wago with three connections? Is it because you didnt have a three connection Wago, or does it need to be in the same place as the other wire? Sorry, I think I confused myself!
Hi Pouse - great video! If i wanted to fit a 3Amp FCU to comply with the manufacturers instructions where in this circuit would be best to wire it? Thanks
Hi, if you wire it off the light circuit as I show in the video then no need to add an FCU as it is already on the correctly rated 6 amp MCB at the consumer unit. What you are referring to I believe is running the fan from the ring main power? If so, you spur the cable off the ring main (either from a socket or junction box) straight to the FCU (in 2.5mm cable like is used for sockets.) After the 3amp FCU (the load) you can use 1.5mm lighting cable as this is safe to use with 3amp protection. Something to bear in mind is that unless you then create a switched live in the circuit, you won't be able to use a timed fan as a timer fan needs a permanent live and a switched live to operate correctly. Hope that helps, good luck and thanks for watching!
Hi Scott. Thanks for the great feedback. If I could do more videos I would. I struggle to get 2 a week at the moment what with a full time job and children! Thanks for watching!
thanks great vid .... i need to do something simular to this but instead take a spur of the light in the loft to run a low power device like a cctv box the device will be always on so i dont need a wall switch i will just switch it on from the plug when installed can i just take power from the loop and neutral and connect the ground and ignore the switch wire
Really well explained, I wish all the sparks show worked on my place labelled all the various cables up with tape!! I think they wired it up using The Force!
I'm looking to add one to a kitchen to remove excess condensation. Can I take the power from a plug socket or connect directly to a plug and switch on and off as required?
You can go from a socket but you will need to add a fused switch (Fused spur) and place a 3amp fuse in the switch to protect the cable and fan. If in doubt please use a qualified electrician as it could potentially be dangerous if done incorrectly. Best of luck.
Can you please tell me what will happen if you mix up brown live cable and black live cable when you connect them to the fan? Is it going to work at all or is it going to short fuse? I installed the thing and it works, but with some weird 2-3 second delay in between switching on a light switch.
Hi, it shouldn't blow a fuse it just either won't work or will stay constantly on. it needs a switched live to turn on and off. But the permanent live is required to allow the fan timer to over run when the switch is turned off. So they both serve a different purpose. The few second delay is perfectly normal and occurs on every fan I have ever used. If you want to operate it using a separate switch (not the light switch) I uploaded a video last week on how to do that. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching!
Hi pouse, great explanation of the jobs, but I'm stuck !!!!! Installed same timer extractor fan in a study and trying to connect to a separate 3 pole isolation to a power source and separate switch. As you said you would explain in your next video. Wish it was on here now. Tried all ways. Had it running but the timer won't time out. It's drove me crazy. Help !!!!!!!!!!! And I can't seem to find the answer on here. 😞 keep up the good work mate 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Hi there, yes I'm in the process of editing that video if you can hold on. For the fan to work you need a switched live and a permanent live. If you don't it wont work. In brief, you need to create another ceiling rose (or junction box) in the ceiling with a switch (like when doing a light) but don't attach a light to it, just the 3 core and earth to the isolation switch and the rest is the same. That way you get a separate witch with a permanent and switched live. Hope that helps. Good luck and thanks for watching!
HI You have a good way of explaining how to do the wiring in a very simplified Manor that i could get my head round easily and understand and get it all ! rather than electrical diagrams that I don't really understand , as in the fan instruction manual thanks thumbs! up
Could you post an alternative diagram if your installation is Quickwire (or similar push and click fit connection systems), not ancient ceiling roses? They only have twin core and earth, and of course you need three core for the fan isolator. How do you square that circle? (I've asked Quickwire and they're developing a three core and earth version but until that comes to market...)
My bathroom extractor fan (with timer) stopped spinning a few years ago so I just removed the wires out and blocked them, to replace later. Finally got round to it today. The three wires that come through to it are coloured Red, Blue and Yellow. It's not earthed. So, which is which please? Fan terminals ar switched live, permanent live, neutral. Thanks!
I'm no electrician but that is exactly the same as the one I removed for replacement today. It looks from the diagram on mine that L= red, N=blue and LS=yellow. So the yellow is the line to the switch.
@@mikeakachorlton Thanks Mike, I assumed this was the case, deduced from Red being the L in old money, and Blue being normal N anyway. I guessed Yellow would be SL. Went with gut instinct and all ok. I found an old diagram on a random website somewhere later which showed this too.
Thanks for making this video. I followed it as best I could, so I can have the fan and lights on a 2 gang switch, and still have the fan timer. For some reason the fan will only turn on and off by switching the isolator on and off. The wall switch does nothing, except turn the lights back off (they're touch buttons).
hi i was after advice please..i want to replace my bathroom extractor fan its currently a 12v fan.i have taken the cover off the old fan and there are two wires in the terminal block. The new fan takes 3 wires live, switched live and neutral. the older fan used to come on with the light switch. also in the bathroom on the ceiling near the wall fan is a 3 pole swith fan isolator. My light pull switch has 2 cables going into common, brown and red. and the 2way has a blue and black Many thanks
If you have a 12v fan, you probably have a transformer somewhere in the ceiling. If your new fan is 230volt then ideally you need to remove the transformer, find your switched live, live, neutral and earth (like in the video) and then wire up accordingly. Without seeing what you have in place, I couldn't really tell you. If you're really stuck, get an electrician as they can test the old cables and make sure they are fit for the new fan. Hope that helps. Best of luck and thanks for watching!
No, that's poor practice as if the light is ever removed, then so will your power be to the fan. Also it ensures the power cable size is maintained from the main lighting radial circuit. 1.5mm is fine if coming from the lighting circuit as in the video assuming the lighting is protected by 5 or 6amp fuse or MCB. If in doubt, call an electrician and stay safe.
hey pouse in regards to the l1 l2 l3 does it matter if perm live is in the L1 and switch live in L2? also alot of isolator switches have com L1 and Nuetral to
Hi Chris, in the example you give, best practice would be to put permanent live into Com, switched live into L1, and neutral into neutral. But physically, it doesn't make a difference as long as the wires on the supply (input) side of the switch, and the load (output) side of the switch match up. The 3 pole switch simply breaks the connection or circuit on all 3 wires when turned off. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
Nice vid, however unless its like for like change (in this case it's not) you will need to make sure this is rcd protected being in a bathroom. Under current regs
Hi thank you for your video, I have fitted a fan following another RUclips video, the video showed the wiring going from the fan to the isolator and from the isolator to the lights pull cord switch, it has not worked, the bathroom light is a new enclosed unit with a lifetime bulb, all it had to connect it was a red live wire, a black neutral wire and the earth , no loop or switch wire, how would I connect the fan to the curling light with that wiring set up, thank you ever so much for your help
You probably need to find the main connection in the ceiling or at the light switch. You will need a switched live, permanent live, neutral and earth (CPC) wire to do the installation as per the video. If in doubt call an electrician to ensure it's safe as it can be a tad complicated! Best of luck.
I've just renovated my home and fitted p.i.rs into the bathrooms with timer run on fans and then it came to me that when its not dark the p.i.rs will not bring the fan on, unless I can wire a bypass switch can you show me how
Hi Robert, not entirely sure of the set up you've got and I don't have one to do an example on. However surely the fan is triggered when someone enters the room. You wouldn't use the bathroom in the dark? Also, maybe you can wire it so both the light and fan come on with motion detection? Without knowing the products and having them to do a demo you'd be best off checking with the manufacturer or an electrician as it's probably not straight forward to explain. Sorry if that's no help. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Speaking to an electrician a few weeks ago and he said new regs say to put the extractor fan switch lower down . Which to me is daft . But I think they say it’s so the customer can switch it off easily in case of an emergency?? I’m Not 100% on that as I’m not an electrician.
Yes, that's possible and makes sense, but that said there's a chance people press it by accident. It'll also just be good practice rather than essential I imagine as it's not really a safety issue, more a practical one. As I'm not an electrician I'm not sure but I'll look into it. Thanks for the feedback 👍
What about the fact fans normally state they need to be fused at 3 amp? Isnt this work covered by part p regulations? Shouldnt all cables buried in the plaster be rcd protected?
Hi Chris, if it was run off a fused switch (which doesn't work for timer fans) then you could use a 3amp fuse, but the MCB is always a 6amp on the consumer unit when wired this way as it run off the lighting circuit. Yes this is covered by part P regulations as stated at 30 seconds into the video. Buried cables should be rcd protected (which they are in this video) if buried less than 50mm into the wall. Obviously these regs could change anytime after me writing this, so should always be referred to prior to carrying out any electrical work. Hope that helps. Good luck and thanks for watching.
just come across this pal. great vid. done mine connecting it into existing wiring that i haven't changed. Its a 240v overrun fan. One problem. Fan not turning. I've got 240v on the switched live at the fan end, but only 80v ish on the constant live. Checked the isolation switch. Same there. The old fan used to work but stopped one day so i just thought it was a knackered fan. clearly not. What might be wrong here please?
great video, really helpful and clear explanation and tells me exactly what I needed to know to retrofit a fan. just one query - you added a second cable to the connector on the ceiling rose - so there are now 4 wires connected in just three holes for the live and for the neutral and 3 wires in 2 holes for the earth (06:35) I read on a forum elsewhere that this was bad practice and should not be done and that instead you should have only one wire per hole. I assume its safe because you've done it but does it meet regs?
Hiya...could you guys offer some advice? I need to have one of these installed, but I have called plumbers, handymen, electricians and everyone seems to reject the job...who is the right trade to call in then?
I’m trying to wire up an extractor fan with humidi stat but don’t have a permenent live at the ceiling rose would you have a video to show the wiring at the light switch
great video bud and well explained....however I get baffled easily. heres my problem. I had an extractor fan and light in my bathroom all working perfectly until the fan started sqeeking. I ripped it out. the light got changed too. I tried to re-wire it all up myself but now the fan comes on when I turn the light out and the fan goes off when the light comes on. there is a black a blue and a brown coming out the ceiling. there is 2 slots for cables on the fan. I have the brown 1 in the live slot, I have the black 1 in the nutrel, when I change the black for the blue then the fan stays on continuesly. its a puzzle. any ideas? wired the light wrong?
Hi Dave, when you say blue, is it blue tape on a grey wire? Sounds like you have wires for a timer fan, but your fan isn't a timer fan. Basically your blue is neutral and should go into the 'N' or Neutral terminal on the fan. Your black sounds like switched live and should go in the 'L' terminal as it will turn on and off with the switch. Your permanent live (Brown) can be safely terminated into a connector block (like a wago 222 block) and left inside the fan but not connected to the fan. On a timer fan you need the permanent live to allow the fan to run on a while once the switch is turned off. You could always replace it with a timer fan which would over run when the light goes off. Obviously without seeing it it's difficult to say. Hope that helps. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Hello mate, I’m going to install downlights and an extractor in my bathroom. Am I able to wire the extractor into the run of the downlights? Great vids by the way, no waffle and clearly explained.
Hi Pouse great video will really help, only question I have is in my bathroom I have 2 old fan units which I want to replace with the dx100, would the wiring from the 2nd fan use the same terminals within the ceiling rose or is this to much of a strain for the circuit. Thanks Wayne
Hi Wayne, without seeing the wiring and knowing what size cables are being used, and what condition they are in then I can't really comment. But, in theory, assuming all the cables on your lighting circuit and your fan installation are the correct size (1.5mm twin and earth & 1.5mm 3 core and earth), you have a 6amp MCB (miniature circuit breaker) on your consumer unit, your consumer unit is a up to current spec with RCD protection then doing what you suggest should be safe and is highly unlikely to overload the circuit as these fans drawer very little power. But, like all circuits, the only way to really know would be to know what is on that circuit already, and for an electrician to test it. The most important thing is that if it did overload, the MCB would trip and turn the power supply off making it safe. Take for example, one house may have 30 lights all with old 100 watt bulbs which when all turned on would use 2000 watts. Another house may have 20 lights with modern LED 4 watt bulbs which would use use 80 watts when all turned on. As it happens, both those scenarios should be fine with the right cable, assuming they weren't too long but there are so many variables to consider it's not a question with an answer that can be applied to all scenarios. Hope that makes sense and hope that has helped a bit. Sorry if it hasn't! Thanks for watching!
Absolutely great - except that my bathroom doesn't have a ceiling rose, it has LED lights. There is no three terminal connection system, just a live and neutral to each succeeding LED light. So where do I get the mythical switched live, or loop terminal from. No idea and I have now watched about six of these videos. Each one starts with a ceiling rose!
It's probably in the ceiling in a connector block or junction box. Are the floor boards accessable above? The only other option is to get the power from your light switch maybe? But if you're not really sure what you're doing, might be best to call an electrician, stay safe!
instead of the ceiling rose , somewhere above your ceiling there will be a cable that runs from the mains to the lights and the switch - if it was professionally installed there will be a junction box or similar that you can use.
thanks for the video, Q...if you're fitting the extractor unit flush to the wall and into the rigid ducting tube, how do you get the ducting to angle down towards the outside wall without the fan unit lifting away from the tiles at the bottom?
On a timed fan you must have the wires right way round as the switched live tells the fan when to go on and off, but the permanent live allows the timer on the fan to over run. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
Hi Pouse, great video. few of questions if i may. 1. You connected the earth wire but the fan but the one I have doesn't have an earth connector. (other fans i have checked don't either) i have the manrose MF100 (this is the non timer version). what cable should i buy and if an earth is required where do i connect it to? 2. I cant find an thermal cut off for the Manrose MF100 in any specs, should this worry me? 3. General question. The model i bought isn't a timer fan but i do understand the timer concept. If you leave the light on and therefore the fan on, what happens in regards to the temperature of the fan? How long before it gets too hot and what happens if it doesn't have a thermal cut off? A fire? thanks
Hi Simon, I used a continuous length of earth wire to the fan but it's not connected to the fan as the fan is double insulated and doesn't require earthing. However if you wanted to replace the fan with an appliance that needs to be earthed in the future then the earth is available. As for the cable, with a timed fan you need a live wire, a permanent live wire and a neutral wire so you need a 3 core and earth cable. With a non timed fan you need a live wire and a neutral wire so you need 2 core and earth. You can't use the earth wire in a cable for a live or neutral as it isn't sheathed and it's actually sightly thinner than the coloured wires. As for thermal cut off, as long as your fan is protected by a 6 amp mcb, with the correct cable (1.5mm) and RCD protection, any fault like that should cause the trip to switch and disconnect the power. However you would need to check with the manufacturer about such specific detail. If you intend leaving the light on but want the fan on a separate switch, try watching my other video - How to fit a bathroom extractor fan using an independent switch - ruclips.net/video/KxH_FM03cMs/видео.html. Hope that helps. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Hi Ed, a ring main is only on a socket circuit. A lighting circuit is a radial circuit (not on a ring - just one length of cable that ends at the last light) so when I say loop, it is the name of the main live feed in and out of each light. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
POUSE around the HOUSE thank you. fitting one for the first time in a 1930's house where an old large square vent is on the outside but has been plastered & tile over. I've replaced a few but never wired one in from scratch. last house had them but no off switch for either of them (just flicked the rad in the box)
Hey Pouse. Very easy to understand video. Well done and thanx. One question for you. Is the Neutral Permanent or switched? I have the DX100HTS and the overrun doesn't activate. I have switched live to L Switched Neutral to N Perm live to T. Fan comes on with the light switch but no overrun. It's also fitted with the humidistat and it would be lovely to shower in daylight hours without a bathroom light! Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Dave
Hi Dave, Neutral is permanent. You need to put permanent live to L. Switched live to T. If you want to wire it up without using the light switch (use a separate switch) you're in luck. Check out my other video - How to fit a bathroom extractor fan using an independent switch - ruclips.net/video/KxH_FM03cMs/видео.html. Hope that helps. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Hi m8,, I’m want to put a outside socket in my garden and a security light,,,where would I power them to,,,I’ve got a extracted fan in my bathroom on the wall where I want my security light and where I want to fit my outside socket I’ve got a switch inside my kitchen where I could fit the socket but I don’t no if I could come from them,,,,have you got any videos on how I could do it cheers pal
Hi there. No videos on this currently but I will do one in the future. You need to take power from a socket in the house. Run a cable (2.5mm twin and earth) from the socket to a fused switch (inside the house) with a 13amp fuse. Then from the fused switch you can take power to your outside socket and light. The fused switch means that anything beyond the fuse is protected by the fuse and wont affect the rest of the house. Also, anything beyond the switch can be isolated by turning the switch off and removing the fuse. The circuit with socket on it must be protected by an RCD. Another option is to run power to the outside straight from your consumer unit if you have a spare MCB. Then all the outside power will be on it's own circuit but it must still be protected by an RCD. If in doubt get an electrician to have a look for you. Safety first! Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
Great video. Did you actually connect the fan wire to the ceiling rose below or all connections being done in the loft? In the video, it seems to me you have the fan wire pull from ceiling below back to the loft.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE thanks for your help. So in the video I saw you connect in the ceiling rose, is that just illustration not actually done in practice. However I could not find connector block in the loft, should I tear the wire cover of the ceiling light to connect the wires? Thanks
Good video, but I don't see the fan been fused at all. there's a lot of ppl not using a fuse with this fan and they're having problems with the fan turning on at random times
I want to put my extractor in the ceiling above my shower, can I locate the isolation switch in the loft and just sort all the wiring above the ceiling?
I have a single light switch for my bathroom which has only a single twin and earth. I have 4 down lights that I can access but unfortunately have no ceiling rose. Can I tap into the lighting wiring for my extractor fan?
They're quite a bit bigger than I expected. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxb-KpJPmXtqM2xdYLP72ICq6QCcD0V8e7 If you ever had an air king round tilting fan, these are basically the same thing but in a window shroud. There's quite a few reviews about them being out of balance. I can say that mine pretty close to balanced. I purchased two of them for cooling my shop during my crypto operation. One intake, one exhaust. Combined they're moving over 7K CFM which is plenty for my 20x30 shop. If it helps you comprehend just how much air they move, both of them on intake and it's incredibly hard to close the door on my shop. The prescribed dimensions are accurate, they barely fit in my small windows.
finally someone in the uk doing good clear videos on this sort of thing. been looking for something like this for ages! im planning to do this only using my pull cord light switch for my bathroom ceiling light (4 led spot lights) and take a feed from that circuit to power a larger high volume extractor fan mounted in the attic, which will then vent through a soffet vent. well, thats the plan anyway!
Thanks for the feedback Peter, glad to have helped. Good luck with your project and thanks for watching!
your a natural, you make things simple to understand and explain thing very well. thanks
Hi there, really appreciate the kind words, glad you enjoy the videos. Good luck with your projects and thanks for watching!
I did just that and when i flipped the switch my toilet flushed :(
There a money making opportunity right there!
😂🤣
Bruf 🤔 ur toilet flush 😳 by the switch?
What the hell bro?!
Haha
Choose this video after finding another of yours useful. I've followed both sets of instructions and have got everything working. Thanks.
Glad it helped
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE you probably got a ton of views from me coz I went back to it so many times 😂
Very helpful straightforward instruction - i've installed my extractor fan (via the ceiling) and everything works perfect - thanks
Thanks for the feedback.
Just the best help you can get , have done a bit of diy but without this video I would have struggled on my own , many thanks fan is now up and running , cheers .
No problem 👍
Dont give a hoot about extractor fans but thumbs up for just being a pouse around the house!
Thanks Matt and thanks for watching!
Great explanation of terminology and how the live from the loop is fed via the neutral from the wall switch - i.o.w. the neutral from the wall switch is only neutral when the switch is off, and is LIVE when the switch is on!
Cheers. I found this very useful and didn't fry myself once.
brilliant video but the detailed instructions in a layman's terms are a great help, I'm a builder with limited knowledge of the current electrical regulations as they keep changing, but for day to say wiring I thank you for your detailed video.keep up the good work
Many thanks for the feedback. Glad it helped you out. Good luck with the building and thanks for watching!
Really good job of explaining something most people can’t!
Thanks for the feedback.
Great videos, mate. All the better for being in a familiar accent. I've re-fitted a bathroom mostly with your help. Thanks!
Let's just hope it lasts! 😂 Only joking, thanks for the feedback. 👍
Really clear wiring diagram great job on the video
Many thanks for the comment.
Hi pouse, thank you for the advise to which I'll have a go at but would sooner see how you do it on here, I've been in the building trade for many years but electrics is just not my thing. Brilliant videos. Thanks Ray.
Hi Ray, really appreciate the great feedback. Video almost done. Probably publish next week. I'm more a jack of all trades master of none!! Thanks again for watching.
This has massively helped me with an upcoming project to upgrade extractor fans in my house, thank you!
Thanks for the video. Very well done and has helped me big style. Very clear and easy to follow. Thank you.
Hi Dave, thanks for the kind words. Glad you found the tutorial clear and easy to follow. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Watched a few of your 'How to' vids now, very clear and comprehensive! Thank you
Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching!
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE hi your diagram shows two wires for a light switch but some bathroom switches have four (L&N in, L&N out) as per link below. How does that change the diagram, and how do you get all those wires (and the wiring for the fan isolator) into a ridiculously small junction box - is there a "knack" to it?
www.toolstation.com/bg-screwless-flat-plate-brushed-stainless-steel-20a-dp-switch/p85449
Very good video, you explained this really well. I have the same challenge with an old house and solid walls!
Glad it was helpful!
Well busy weekend down lights in and fan installed pull string gone new switch in, just waiting for fan isolator tomorrow then a few holes to fill and paint, your videos are brilliant thank you. 👍
Sounds great! Thanks for the feedback.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE any thoughts on adding a shaver socket and the best was to go?
Thank you so much , I am a competent electrician but the 'T' fooled me !!
Thanks for this mate, perfect explanation from start to finish, brilliant. Be fitting my fan tomorrow.
Spot on 3 extractors fitted 👍...I’m a handyman but electric’s in NOT my forte but that was very easy to follow👍👍👍
Thank you for the video, just fitted a DX100 and found this very helpful. My original wiring was slightly different, but this guide helped me to work it out.
Glad to be of help, thanks for watching!
Brilliant video. Much simpler than I thought.
Glad it helped
my 90 yr old grannys fitting mine next week!
i got my lives at the switch, i take it i just do the connections at the switch just similar to the ceiling rose, thanks mate very informative 👍🏻
Great video Taff,simple and thorough, many thanks for sharing your knowledge.
No problem!
Great video pal nice and clear.a bit long but I did it and the diagram helped a lot iv done this for ventilation in the loft
Hi Marco, glad the vid helped. I'm not keen on doing the long vids either but sometimes it's the only way to show it all. Good luck and thanks for watching!
POUSE around the HOUSE iv subscribed pal thanks for the reply
That was brilliant - clear n straight forward & thanks for the sealant tip at the end ☺️👍
No problem, thanks for watching.
Thanks for your very helpful and practical explanation of how this is done... Best I've found
Thanks for the feedback.
My extractor screams randomly. Sometimes it's quiet and other times when I switch the light on the thing whirrs and screeches getting louder and louder until I pull the switch again. Is it dust build up or dodgy bearings or do I need a new unit? It's quite the unique sound, a bit like a car doing a burnout and it seems to do it only at night when it pisses my neighbours off the most.
Hi Neil, sounds like the bearings so you may need a new unit, but while the unit is off, give it a good hoover and suck all the dust out of it. Also check that the vent isn't blocked outside as if it is, then the fan will have to work harder. Good luck with it, and thanks for watching!
Thanks so much for sharing this, it came in very useful when connecting my extractor fan.
Glad it helped.
This worked a treat, believe it or not my friend who is a qualified spark but been working with Siemens Renewables over 15yrs now, he told me that the Grey was the Switched Live and Black Neutral...
Didn't quite feel right, done some reading and checking out diagrams then found this, so for all the bollocks on here from obvious tradesmen scaremongering and feeling the pinch, this guy uploading a vid, doesn't scream "fkn do this now!" He knows if we've went as far as check out vids on it, we've pretty much made our minds up that we've got our head set in doing it anyway but just looking for guidance..
If I zapped myself, took some Sith lightning, I can't blame this guy, electricity is dangerous, its serious, we know this, do we take precautions, yes, do we go it on one video alone without reading up, checking wiring diagrams and reaching for a multimeter? No!...
I for one found this to be extremely helpful...
If you guys with the knowledge and training want to help, charge a fair price! £80 for a light to get fitted is among the jokes I've heard, it's not rocket fkn science, follow good safety protocols and you'll get there, want to come on and rip into the ones who dare to take money out your loot sack, erm! Wallet sorry... don't blame us or the uploader, blame the tories, these are after all austere times...
Thanks for the upload, massive help, i'm fine with electric showers, sockets, switches but this was my first replacement extractor...
Thanks for the feedback Gavin. Best of luck!
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE You're very welcome sir, a lot of ultra critical comments on here from folk not quite grasping that you are only offering guidance, all work is done at our own risk as it is with any electrical work and that still goes even for the qualified electrician.
I subbed, will be able to use some of your guidance in future coupled with the usual reading up i do on wiring diagrams, following installation instructions on the electrical item being installed and above all, power off at RCD Box, we all know that if RCD trips on power on, THEN we'll resort to being fleeced by an independent spark...
Thanks again for your help
Gav
You are are Great DIYer RUclipsr guy thank you very much sir you help us a lot 👍
Thanks for the feedback.
Yeah, nice and straightforward explanation - it must have been because I think even I might be competent enough 👍
This is a life saver. Got to do this exact thing on a job thanks for the help 👍
No problem 👍
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE Got it done working a dream mate. 👍👍
Lovely video,underrated channel 💪👍
Thanks for the kind words 👍
YOU MAD IT SO EASY ENJOYED THE VIDEO.
Hi Ratch. Glad the video was useful and you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching!
Nice video, but may I ask what size spoon you dug that hole with?
Ha ha. Crumbly old bricks. The outside was perfect!!
Loving your videos but I had a question regarding the Wagos. At 7:32 you put the switch live going to the extractor fan into a Wago block with two connectors. Why didnt you use a Wago with three connections? Is it because you didnt have a three connection Wago, or does it need to be in the same place as the other wire? Sorry, I think I confused myself!
Amazing explanation and makes perfect sense
Hi Pouse - great video! If i wanted to fit a 3Amp FCU to comply with the manufacturers instructions where in this circuit would be best to wire it?
Thanks
Hi, if you wire it off the light circuit as I show in the video then no need to add an FCU as it is already on the correctly rated 6 amp MCB at the consumer unit. What you are referring to I believe is running the fan from the ring main power? If so, you spur the cable off the ring main (either from a socket or junction box) straight to the FCU (in 2.5mm cable like is used for sockets.) After the 3amp FCU (the load) you can use 1.5mm lighting cable as this is safe to use with 3amp protection. Something to bear in mind is that unless you then create a switched live in the circuit, you won't be able to use a timed fan as a timer fan needs a permanent live and a switched live to operate correctly. Hope that helps, good luck and thanks for watching!
Love how you go into detail I have a kinetic light switch how would I wire it from the isolation switch
Should I seal the fan to the roof using silicone I have a plastic roof in the bathroom I can feel a draft coming though the gaps
top video keep them coming shame cant do more per week
Hi Scott. Thanks for the great feedback. If I could do more videos I would. I struggle to get 2 a week at the moment what with a full time job and children! Thanks for watching!
7 👆 8
thanks great vid .... i need to do something simular to this but instead take a spur of the light in the loft to run a low power device like a cctv box the device will be always on so i dont need a wall switch i will just switch it on from the plug when installed can i just take power from the loop and neutral and connect the ground and ignore the switch wire
Thanks for watching.
no you cannot
Really well explained, I wish all the sparks show worked on my place labelled all the various cables up with tape!! I think they wired it up using The Force!
Thanks for watching!
I'm looking to add one to a kitchen to remove excess condensation. Can I take the power from a plug socket or connect directly to a plug and switch on and off as required?
You can go from a socket but you will need to add a fused switch (Fused spur) and place a 3amp fuse in the switch to protect the cable and fan. If in doubt please use a qualified electrician as it could potentially be dangerous if done incorrectly. Best of luck.
Very helpful and well explained video, thanks for uploading mate 👍👍👍
Thanks for watching.
Can you please tell me what will happen if you mix up brown live cable and black live cable when you connect them to the fan?
Is it going to work at all or is it going to short fuse? I installed the thing and it works, but with some weird 2-3 second delay in between switching on a light switch.
Hi, it shouldn't blow a fuse it just either won't work or will stay constantly on. it needs a switched live to turn on and off. But the permanent live is required to allow the fan timer to over run when the switch is turned off. So they both serve a different purpose. The few second delay is perfectly normal and occurs on every fan I have ever used. If you want to operate it using a separate switch (not the light switch) I uploaded a video last week on how to do that. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching!
Hi pouse, great explanation of the jobs, but I'm stuck !!!!! Installed same timer extractor fan in a study and trying to connect to a separate 3 pole isolation to a power source and separate switch. As you said you would explain in your next video. Wish it was on here now. Tried all ways. Had it running but the timer won't time out. It's drove me crazy. Help !!!!!!!!!!! And I can't seem to find the answer on here. 😞 keep up the good work mate 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Hi there, yes I'm in the process of editing that video if you can hold on. For the fan to work you need a switched live and a permanent live. If you don't it wont work. In brief, you need to create another ceiling rose (or junction box) in the ceiling with a switch (like when doing a light) but don't attach a light to it, just the 3 core and earth to the isolation switch and the rest is the same. That way you get a separate witch with a permanent and switched live. Hope that helps. Good luck and thanks for watching!
HI You have a good way of explaining how to do the wiring in a very simplified Manor that i could get my head round easily and understand and get it all ! rather than electrical diagrams that I don't really understand , as in the fan instruction manual thanks thumbs! up
Glad to help!
Great instruction. Right at my level. Job done. Thank you.
Great news Hywel, thanks for watching!
Could you post an alternative diagram if your installation is Quickwire (or similar push and click fit connection systems), not ancient ceiling roses? They only have twin core and earth, and of course you need three core for the fan isolator. How do you square that circle? (I've asked Quickwire and they're developing a three core and earth version but until that comes to market...)
My bathroom extractor fan (with timer) stopped spinning a few years ago so I just removed the wires out and blocked them, to replace later. Finally got round to it today. The three wires that come through to it are coloured Red, Blue and Yellow. It's not earthed. So, which is which please? Fan terminals ar switched live, permanent live, neutral. Thanks!
I'm no electrician but that is exactly the same as the one I removed for replacement today. It looks from the diagram on mine that L= red, N=blue and LS=yellow. So the yellow is the line to the switch.
@@mikeakachorlton Thanks Mike, I assumed this was the case, deduced from Red being the L in old money, and Blue being normal N anyway. I guessed Yellow would be SL. Went with gut instinct and all ok. I found an old diagram on a random website somewhere later which showed this too.
Thanks for making this video. I followed it as best I could, so I can have the fan and lights on a 2 gang switch, and still have the fan timer. For some reason the fan will only turn on and off by switching the isolator on and off. The wall switch does nothing, except turn the lights back off (they're touch buttons).
Yup, your set up is working perfectly!
This was a really excellent, well described talk through. Saved me a lot of time. Thank you for your help 😎👍
Thanks for the feedback.
Thank you sir
Very useful video
am kerala (india)
No problem. Thanks for watching.
I didn't use the timer so I put a little loop from SW to L on the fan, if you ring Manrose they'll tell you to do this.
Brilliantly explained. Thank you for taking the time!
hi i was after advice please..i want to replace my bathroom extractor fan its currently a 12v fan.i have taken the cover off the old fan and there are two wires in the terminal block. The new fan takes 3 wires live, switched live and neutral. the older fan used to come on with the light switch. also in the bathroom on the ceiling near the wall fan is a 3 pole swith fan isolator. My light pull switch has 2 cables going into common, brown and red. and the 2way has a blue and black Many thanks
If you have a 12v fan, you probably have a transformer somewhere in the ceiling. If your new fan is 230volt then ideally you need to remove the transformer, find your switched live, live, neutral and earth (like in the video) and then wire up accordingly. Without seeing what you have in place, I couldn't really tell you. If you're really stuck, get an electrician as they can test the old cables and make sure they are fit for the new fan. Hope that helps. Best of luck and thanks for watching!
Can I come off the end of downlights to the isolation switch. Do I still use 1.5 or do I need the 2.5 cable. Thanks.
No, that's poor practice as if the light is ever removed, then so will your power be to the fan. Also it ensures the power cable size is maintained from the main lighting radial circuit. 1.5mm is fine if coming from the lighting circuit as in the video assuming the lighting is protected by 5 or 6amp fuse or MCB. If in doubt, call an electrician and stay safe.
hey pouse in regards to the l1 l2 l3 does it matter if perm live is in the L1 and switch live in L2?
also alot of isolator switches have com L1 and Nuetral to
Hi Chris, in the example you give, best practice would be to put permanent live into Com, switched live into L1, and neutral into neutral. But physically, it doesn't make a difference as long as the wires on the supply (input) side of the switch, and the load (output) side of the switch match up. The 3 pole switch simply breaks the connection or circuit on all 3 wires when turned off. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
Screwfix pencil behind his ear.... he's a real builder!! ;) lol
I'm not actually a builder, I just just get a kick out of pinching pencils!
Touche😆
Nice vid, however unless its like for like change (in this case it's not) you will need to make sure this is rcd protected being in a bathroom. Under current regs
Thanks for the feedback ashley, this fan is indeed RCD protected, but good point. Thanks for watching.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE Im not trying to catch you out mate, just letting viewers know in case they attempt it. 👍
20amp
Hi thank you for your video, I have fitted a fan following another RUclips video, the video showed the wiring going from the fan to the isolator and from the isolator to the lights pull cord switch, it has not worked, the bathroom light is a new enclosed unit with a lifetime bulb, all it had to connect it was a red live wire, a black neutral wire and the earth , no loop or switch wire, how would I connect the fan to the curling light with that wiring set up, thank you ever so much for your help
You probably need to find the main connection in the ceiling or at the light switch. You will need a switched live, permanent live, neutral and earth (CPC) wire to do the installation as per the video. If in doubt call an electrician to ensure it's safe as it can be a tad complicated! Best of luck.
Don't know why we can't just use the brown/black (L/N) and grey as S/L. Makes more sense to me.
I've just renovated my home and fitted p.i.rs into the bathrooms with timer run on fans and then it came to me that when its not dark the p.i.rs will not bring the fan on, unless I can wire a bypass switch can you show me how
Hi Robert, not entirely sure of the set up you've got and I don't have one to do an example on. However surely the fan is triggered when someone enters the room. You wouldn't use the bathroom in the dark? Also, maybe you can wire it so both the light and fan come on with motion detection? Without knowing the products and having them to do a demo you'd be best off checking with the manufacturer or an electrician as it's probably not straight forward to explain. Sorry if that's no help. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Since the fan is double insulated could i used twin and earth use neutral and permanent live, but mark the earth wire red and use for switch live?
No. Earth wire is thinner than other two at it isn't insulated, it's bare. Use the correct cable. Hope that helps.
Speaking to an electrician a few weeks ago and he said new regs say to put the extractor fan switch lower down . Which to me is daft . But I think they say it’s so the customer can switch it off easily in case of an emergency?? I’m Not 100% on that as I’m not an electrician.
Yes, that's possible and makes sense, but that said there's a chance people press it by accident. It'll also just be good practice rather than essential I imagine as it's not really a safety issue, more a practical one. As I'm not an electrician I'm not sure but I'll look into it. Thanks for the feedback 👍
What about the fact fans normally state they need to be fused at 3 amp?
Isnt this work covered by part p regulations?
Shouldnt all cables buried in the plaster be rcd protected?
Hi Chris, if it was run off a fused switch (which doesn't work for timer fans) then you could use a 3amp fuse, but the MCB is always a 6amp on the consumer unit when wired this way as it run off the lighting circuit. Yes this is covered by part P regulations as stated at 30 seconds into the video. Buried cables should be rcd protected (which they are in this video) if buried less than 50mm into the wall. Obviously these regs could change anytime after me writing this, so should always be referred to prior to carrying out any electrical work. Hope that helps. Good luck and thanks for watching.
just come across this pal. great vid. done mine connecting it into existing wiring that i haven't changed. Its a 240v overrun fan. One problem. Fan not turning. I've got 240v on the switched live at the fan end, but only 80v ish on the constant live. Checked the isolation switch. Same there. The old fan used to work but stopped one day so i just thought it was a knackered fan. clearly not. What might be wrong here please?
Sounds like you need an electrician to test the wiring. Safety first. Thanks for watching and best of luck getting it sorted.
great video, really helpful and clear explanation and tells me exactly what I needed to know to retrofit a fan. just one query - you added a second cable to the connector on the ceiling rose - so there are now 4 wires connected in just three holes for the live and for the neutral and 3 wires in 2 holes for the earth (06:35) I read on a forum elsewhere that this was bad practice and should not be done and that instead you should have only one wire per hole. I assume its safe because you've done it but does it meet regs?
No need to double up in the wago just use a larger block
Thanks for the feedback Ricky and thanks for watching.
Hiya...could you guys offer some advice? I need to have one of these installed, but I have called plumbers, handymen, electricians and everyone seems to reject the job...who is the right trade to call in then?
I would say an electrician. Best of luck with it.
I’m trying to wire up an extractor fan with humidi stat but don’t have a permenent live at the ceiling rose would you have a video to show the wiring at the light switch
great video bud and well explained....however I get baffled easily. heres my problem. I had an extractor fan and light in my bathroom all working perfectly until the fan started sqeeking. I ripped it out. the light got changed too. I tried to re-wire it all up myself but now the fan comes on when I turn the light out and the fan goes off when the light comes on. there is a black a blue and a brown coming out the ceiling. there is 2 slots for cables on the fan. I have the brown 1 in the live slot, I have the black 1 in the nutrel, when I change the black for the blue then the fan stays on continuesly. its a puzzle. any ideas? wired the light wrong?
Hi Dave, when you say blue, is it blue tape on a grey wire? Sounds like you have wires for a timer fan, but your fan isn't a timer fan. Basically your blue is neutral and should go into the 'N' or Neutral terminal on the fan. Your black sounds like switched live and should go in the 'L' terminal as it will turn on and off with the switch. Your permanent live (Brown) can be safely terminated into a connector block (like a wago 222 block) and left inside the fan but not connected to the fan. On a timer fan you need the permanent live to allow the fan to run on a while once the switch is turned off. You could always replace it with a timer fan which would over run when the light goes off. Obviously without seeing it it's difficult to say. Hope that helps. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Hello mate, I’m going to install downlights and an extractor in my bathroom. Am I able to wire the extractor into the run of the downlights? Great vids by the way, no waffle and clearly explained.
Just find the first light junction in the room and follow the instructions in the vid. That's exactly what I did. Best of luck and thanks for watching
Absolutely brilliant… worked a treat, thanks so much
No problem, enjoy your new fan.
Hi Pouse great video will really help, only question I have is in my bathroom I have 2 old fan units which I want to replace with the dx100, would the wiring from the 2nd fan use the same terminals within the ceiling rose or is this to much of a strain for the circuit. Thanks Wayne
Hi Wayne, without seeing the wiring and knowing what size cables are being used, and what condition they are in then I can't really comment. But, in theory, assuming all the cables on your lighting circuit and your fan installation are the correct size (1.5mm twin and earth & 1.5mm 3 core and earth), you have a 6amp MCB (miniature circuit breaker) on your consumer unit, your consumer unit is a up to current spec with RCD protection then doing what you suggest should be safe and is highly unlikely to overload the circuit as these fans drawer very little power. But, like all circuits, the only way to really know would be to know what is on that circuit already, and for an electrician to test it. The most important thing is that if it did overload, the MCB would trip and turn the power supply off making it safe. Take for example, one house may have 30 lights all with old 100 watt bulbs which when all turned on would use 2000 watts. Another house may have 20 lights with modern LED 4 watt bulbs which would use use 80 watts when all turned on. As it happens, both those scenarios should be fine with the right cable, assuming they weren't too long but there are so many variables to consider it's not a question with an answer that can be applied to all scenarios. Hope that makes sense and hope that has helped a bit. Sorry if it hasn't! Thanks for watching!
Hi thanks for getting back. ordered & installing same units as you and replacing all wiring to fans for new so 4 core 1.5
Great news Wayne, hope it goes well. Good luck!
Absolutely great - except that my bathroom doesn't have a ceiling rose, it has LED lights. There is no three terminal connection system, just a live and neutral to each succeeding LED light. So where do I get the mythical switched live, or loop terminal from. No idea and I have now watched about six of these videos. Each one starts with a ceiling rose!
It's probably in the ceiling in a connector block or junction box. Are the floor boards accessable above? The only other option is to get the power from your light switch maybe? But if you're not really sure what you're doing, might be best to call an electrician, stay safe!
instead of the ceiling rose , somewhere above your ceiling there will be a cable that runs from the mains to the lights and the switch - if it was professionally installed there will be a junction box or similar that you can use.
thanks for the video, Q...if you're fitting the extractor unit flush to the wall and into the rigid ducting tube, how do you get the ducting to angle down towards the outside wall without the fan unit lifting away from the tiles at the bottom?
Great video - cheers. Fantastic detailed explanations
Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching!
Informative video. Well thought out. Thanks great vid
Thanks for the feedback Eddie and thanks for watching!
i think that if You swap the L and T within the fan, even if the fan was time deleyed, it will work the same.
On a timed fan you must have the wires right way round as the switched live tells the fan when to go on and off, but the permanent live allows the timer on the fan to over run. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
what about separate switch for fan and lights?
Hi Adam, I will be uploading that video very soon if you can hang on a week or two. Thanks for watching!
Great video thank you. It is possible to disconnect the extraction system and leave the sound in the toliet.
Fantastic video, thanks!
Hi Pouse, great video. few of questions if i may.
1. You connected the earth wire but the fan but the one I have doesn't have an earth connector. (other fans i have checked don't either) i have the manrose MF100 (this is the non timer version). what cable should i buy and if an earth is required where do i connect it to?
2. I cant find an thermal cut off for the Manrose MF100 in any specs, should this worry me?
3. General question. The model i bought isn't a timer fan but i do understand the timer concept. If you leave the light on and therefore the fan on, what happens in regards to the temperature of the fan? How long before it gets too hot and what happens if it doesn't have a thermal cut off? A fire?
thanks
Hi Simon, I used a continuous length of earth wire to the fan but it's not connected to the fan as the fan is double insulated and doesn't require earthing. However if you wanted to replace the fan with an appliance that needs to be earthed in the future then the earth is available. As for the cable, with a timed fan you need a live wire, a permanent live wire and a neutral wire so you need a 3 core and earth cable. With a non timed fan you need a live wire and a neutral wire so you need 2 core and earth. You can't use the earth wire in a cable for a live or neutral as it isn't sheathed and it's actually sightly thinner than the coloured wires. As for thermal cut off, as long as your fan is protected by a 6 amp mcb, with the correct cable (1.5mm) and RCD protection, any fault like that should cause the trip to switch and disconnect the power. However you would need to check with the manufacturer about such specific detail. If you intend leaving the light on but want the fan on a separate switch, try watching my other video - How to fit a bathroom extractor fan using an independent switch - ruclips.net/video/KxH_FM03cMs/видео.html. Hope that helps. Good luck and thanks for watching!
when u say loop in and loop out do u mean the ring main in and out?
Hi Ed, a ring main is only on a socket circuit. A lighting circuit is a radial circuit (not on a ring - just one length of cable that ends at the last light) so when I say loop, it is the name of the main live feed in and out of each light. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
POUSE around the HOUSE
thank you. fitting one for the first time in a 1930's house where an old large square vent is on the outside but has been plastered & tile over.
I've replaced a few but never wired one in from scratch. last house had them but no off switch for either of them (just flicked the rad in the box)
Good luck with it Ed. Thanks for watching!
Hi any chance of a video showing how to install a mixed flow in-line fan? Thanks your vids are super useful 🙂
Maybe in time, but it won't be soon. I've got enough on my plate! Thanks for watching.
Hey Pouse.
Very easy to understand video. Well done and thanx.
One question for you.
Is the Neutral Permanent or switched?
I have the DX100HTS and the overrun doesn't activate.
I have switched live to L
Switched Neutral to N
Perm live to T.
Fan comes on with the light switch but no overrun.
It's also fitted with the humidistat and it would be lovely to shower in daylight hours without a bathroom light!
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Dave
Hi Dave, Neutral is permanent. You need to put permanent live to L. Switched live to T. If you want to wire it up without using the light switch (use a separate switch) you're in luck. Check out my other video - How to fit a bathroom extractor fan using an independent switch - ruclips.net/video/KxH_FM03cMs/видео.html. Hope that helps. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Hi m8,, I’m want to put a outside socket in my garden and a security light,,,where would I power them to,,,I’ve got a extracted fan in my bathroom on the wall where I want my security light and where I want to fit my outside socket I’ve got a switch inside my kitchen where I could fit the socket but I don’t no if I could come from them,,,,have you got any videos on how I could do it cheers pal
Hi there. No videos on this currently but I will do one in the future. You need to take power from a socket in the house. Run a cable (2.5mm twin and earth) from the socket to a fused switch (inside the house) with a 13amp fuse. Then from the fused switch you can take power to your outside socket and light. The fused switch means that anything beyond the fuse is protected by the fuse and wont affect the rest of the house. Also, anything beyond the switch can be isolated by turning the switch off and removing the fuse. The circuit with socket on it must be protected by an RCD. Another option is to run power to the outside straight from your consumer unit if you have a spare MCB. Then all the outside power will be on it's own circuit but it must still be protected by an RCD. If in doubt get an electrician to have a look for you. Safety first! Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
Fitted one over the weekend, this video helped a lot. Thank you
Glad to help 👍
Great video. Did you actually connect the fan wire to the ceiling rose below or all connections being done in the loft? In the video, it seems to me you have the fan wire pull from ceiling below back to the loft.
Connected to a connector block in the ceiling. This is actually a downstairs bathroom although that makes no difference! Hope that helps.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE thanks for your help. So in the video I saw you connect in the ceiling rose, is that just illustration not actually done in practice. However I could not find connector block in the loft, should I tear the wire cover of the ceiling light to connect the wires? Thanks
@@dragonviet2994 call a qualified electrician
I've just wired mine from a bathroom light and it's still not working!! Am I going mad? It's operating only from a single switch of course...
Good video, but I don't see the fan been fused at all. there's a lot of ppl not using a fuse with this fan and they're having problems with the fan turning on at random times
I want to put my extractor in the ceiling above my shower, can I locate the isolation switch in the loft and just sort all the wiring above the ceiling?
I have a single light switch for my bathroom which has only a single twin and earth. I have 4 down lights that I can access but unfortunately have no ceiling rose. Can I tap into the lighting wiring for my extractor fan?