you dont need anti backlash spring on the z axis as gravity does the job of the spring, anti backlesh nuts makes sense on x or y axis if you are using a lead screw driven x or y axis using anti backlash spring on the z axis lead screw you are just increasing friction on the acme threads on one side of the lead screw or the nut and thats why they wear out POM nuts are also used to minimize vibrations caused by friction between the nut and the lead screw when you are driving the lead scew beyond its critical speed. For a lead screw so small (300 mm) I believe that critical velocity will be in several thousand RPM, so unless you have a noise issue, POM nuts are redundant
Have you tried the mellow bi metal heatbreak? It seems to be a drop in replacement for the ender series printers. Like down to the dimensions, wouldn't even have to change your Z offset.
I have been considering getting one for my Ender 5+, I have a Swiss on an Ender 3 but I had to get it machined by a friend and a conversion piece made for a compression fitting as those collets just kept wearing out and allowed it to ride up with the retractions which were causing artefacts.
@@AndrewAHayes I've seen different opinions on the collets. Some say they're perfect and never had an issue. Others say they can't stay tight and loosen very often. Wonder if there's some expensive ones that work better without having to drill and tap threads for a ptfe coupler. But their bimetal heatbreak looks nice and they even have a flat side on it for the grub screw to engage more than other bm heartbreaks.
Do you have one Ender-3 that's just totally maxed out with every trick you could throw at it? (Linear rails, Teflon screws, dual-z w/ G34, premium hot end with direct drive, upgraded fans, motherboard, and whatever else you can throw at it? If so, how much better is it than a stock unit.
linear rails don't really help accuracy. They can help maintenance of Vwheels, and sometimes noise, but overall, nothing changes. Direct Drive is the same, it won't do better in all aspects, it will do better with Flexible Filaments, but overall, is just another type of modification to adjust and calibrate. The mainboard is a big change, as many Ender3s have an 8bit Melzi mainboard, with older, choppier, drivers - so an improved mainboard can in fact help print quality even further. Fans are more for silence while cooling, vs quality, although a new set of part cooling fans can allow for some better prints at higher temps/speeds. The simple fact is, stock, printing slow with PLA, this does as good a job as most high end printers. The downside is the need for maintenance and calibration, which is where the premiums shine. A prusa, for example, is a workhorse. You set it up, get it calibrated once, and you probably won't have to touch it's settings for months, even changing to new filament types. The Ender3, however, will need fine tuned for just about every variable that changes, including new filament (color, brand, and type of plastic)
I have an Ender3 with Microswiss all metal hotend, Microswiss direct drive linear rail extruder, Microswiss hardened steel nozzle, upgraded ceramic heater, Microswiss copper heater block, dual Z, linear rails throughout, 32 bit silent board running Klipper with the Creality Sonic Pad, Biqu textured PEI sheet, Stealthburner cooling (modified swissburner with my own custom mount), 5015 part cooling, CR touch (same custom mount), Squashball feet, cable chains, aluminum bed level knobs, printermods LED lights and more. My printer is more reliable. I never adjust v-slot rollers because of the linear rails. I do have to clean and lubricate them. I did these upgrades slowly. Many of them took down my printer for a few days. The Z axis has given me the most trouble. Replacing lead screws and the nuts resolves it. In fact, I have changed quite a few parts but I use it a lot. (when the Z axis starts to drag on the print, it is time to change out the parts) I have been considering the kevin aka sam belted z axis mod. I don't like the idea of the gantry falling. (though a key back mod is now available) Also the same guy has a setup for Klack ender probe. At some point it might as well be a switchwire conversion. The best mods were the Biqu textured (powdercoated) PEI sheet. A replacement build plate and new mag sheet. My replacement was much flatter but it is luck of the draw if you get a stock one. Gulfcoast robotics sells a better build plate if you really want to go that route. The installation of the magnetic sheet is critical to a flat bed. The stealthburner (swissburner) was pretty huge for cooling. Linear rails have reduced by maintenance and added accuracy and speed potential. Dual Z was big for my particular printer. (tons of Z issues after printing many hours) Klipper was actually huge though. Input shaper and pressure advance tuning allowed me to print faster. Also Marlin will actually pause once the buffer is full. (not an issue with Klipper) If the printer pauses and creates little zits at high speeds, you are pushing the 32 bit board and Marlin past its capabilities. Adding insulation under the bed was cheap and easy and helps it warm the bed faster. (mine is an old Ender 3 Pro) A slightly higher wattage ceramic heater for the heater block was good. (faster warm up) The nozzle of course is huge. A quality nozzle that is seasoned with a single drop of mineral oil. Direct drive is big. Tweaking the setting in Klipper for the CR touch was big. (so it knows where the probe is in relation to the actual nozzle!!) My printer is tuned an ready to print. I run ABL and it probes 25 points 2 times on each point. (what a difference probing 2 times made!) I learned a lot and printed a lot. It is still and Ender 3 though. It is and will always be a bed slinger. A full on switchwire (corexz) conversion is a possibility for this printer. The Sonic Pad has been a pain. It disconnects during large prints. I hope to resolve this by changing the USB cable yet again or maybe a software update will fix it. (start the print and hope for the best) I had to remove my BTT SKR mini and install the Creality 4.2.7 to get it working with the Sonic Pad. (another expense but it made life easy) I think at this point, it is going to stay how it is. I would rather spend my time working on a printer that is not a bed slinger. The Ender 5 is NOT corexy but looks like it is. The new Ender 5 S1 looks pretty nice. (paired with my Sonic Pad if I get it working) The longer version of the sprite extruder is interesting. I ordered a Bambu Lab X1 Carbon. (that fixes everything, at least in theory) I have high hopes for the X1 Carbon. It is expensive but so were all of my mods to the Ender and I still have a bed slinger. I think that the Ender 5 S1 is the best Creality option at this point. It comes with Marlin but Klipper is great. Sonic Pad is wonderful when it isn't failing. I would have to do OctoKlipper at some point if I bought the Ender 5 if I can't make the Sonic Pad reliable. (I love that you just edit the printer.cfg instead of compiling firmware) I was planning on going with the Ender 5 and upgrading the z axis, the bed, and eventually modding it to be corexy. The Bambu Lab is already corexy and is faster than the Ender 5 is capable of being even after the mods. The P1P is $699 and just as capable of fast PLA printing if you add the part cooling fan ($35). A lot is going to change in 2023 from what I can tell. Part of me will miss the constant upgrade path. I may start building a Voron to fill that void. I may just concentrate on 3D design instead. I might start with the Voron 0 or maybe the 2.4. I already have a large format printer, the Biqu B1 SE Plus for my large stuff. (bedslinger) I guess my goal is to use the Bambu for most things. Use the large format Biqu for large things and keep the Ender for when I need more than one printer at a time. I will build a Voron just because I want to.
Most youtube videos show the connection wrong. Are you aware of any video showing it correctly. I tried connecting correctly on an Ender Neo and I had problems with the screws getting in the way of the filament.
you dont need anti backlash spring on the z axis as gravity does the job of the spring, anti backlesh nuts makes sense on x or y axis if you are using a lead screw driven x or y axis
using anti backlash spring on the z axis lead screw you are just increasing friction on the acme threads on one side of the lead screw or the nut and thats why they wear out
POM nuts are also used to minimize vibrations caused by friction between the nut and the lead screw when you are driving the lead scew beyond its critical speed. For a lead screw so small (300 mm) I believe that critical velocity will be in several thousand RPM, so unless you have a noise issue, POM nuts are redundant
Have you tried the mellow bi metal heatbreak? It seems to be a drop in replacement for the ender series printers. Like down to the dimensions, wouldn't even have to change your Z offset.
I have been considering getting one for my Ender 5+, I have a Swiss on an Ender 3 but I had to get it machined by a friend and a conversion piece made for a compression fitting as those collets just kept wearing out and allowed it to ride up with the retractions which were causing artefacts.
@@AndrewAHayes I've seen different opinions on the collets. Some say they're perfect and never had an issue. Others say they can't stay tight and loosen very often. Wonder if there's some expensive ones that work better without having to drill and tap threads for a ptfe coupler. But their bimetal heatbreak looks nice and they even have a flat side on it for the grub screw to engage more than other bm heartbreaks.
I just pay micro Swiss to make me a custom heat sink with threads. I have a video of it on this channel.
Do you have one Ender-3 that's just totally maxed out with every trick you could throw at it? (Linear rails, Teflon screws, dual-z w/ G34, premium hot end with direct drive, upgraded fans, motherboard, and whatever else you can throw at it? If so, how much better is it than a stock unit.
I would have gone for a belted z for totally tricked out, I have them on my Pro 3D V-King 400 and they are the dogs doodahs
I suppose you could say that.
It's not about making the quality better, it's about making it more consistent and reliable.
For me anyway.
linear rails don't really help accuracy. They can help maintenance of Vwheels, and sometimes noise, but overall, nothing changes. Direct Drive is the same, it won't do better in all aspects, it will do better with Flexible Filaments, but overall, is just another type of modification to adjust and calibrate. The mainboard is a big change, as many Ender3s have an 8bit Melzi mainboard, with older, choppier, drivers - so an improved mainboard can in fact help print quality even further. Fans are more for silence while cooling, vs quality, although a new set of part cooling fans can allow for some better prints at higher temps/speeds.
The simple fact is, stock, printing slow with PLA, this does as good a job as most high end printers. The downside is the need for maintenance and calibration, which is where the premiums shine. A prusa, for example, is a workhorse. You set it up, get it calibrated once, and you probably won't have to touch it's settings for months, even changing to new filament types. The Ender3, however, will need fine tuned for just about every variable that changes, including new filament (color, brand, and type of plastic)
I have an Ender3 with Microswiss all metal hotend, Microswiss direct drive linear rail extruder, Microswiss hardened steel nozzle, upgraded ceramic heater, Microswiss copper heater block, dual Z, linear rails throughout, 32 bit silent board running Klipper with the Creality Sonic Pad, Biqu textured PEI sheet, Stealthburner cooling (modified swissburner with my own custom mount), 5015 part cooling, CR touch (same custom mount), Squashball feet, cable chains, aluminum bed level knobs, printermods LED lights and more. My printer is more reliable. I never adjust v-slot rollers because of the linear rails. I do have to clean and lubricate them. I did these upgrades slowly. Many of them took down my printer for a few days. The Z axis has given me the most trouble. Replacing lead screws and the nuts resolves it. In fact, I have changed quite a few parts but I use it a lot. (when the Z axis starts to drag on the print, it is time to change out the parts) I have been considering the kevin aka sam belted z axis mod. I don't like the idea of the gantry falling. (though a key back mod is now available) Also the same guy has a setup for Klack ender probe. At some point it might as well be a switchwire conversion.
The best mods were the Biqu textured (powdercoated) PEI sheet. A replacement build plate and new mag sheet. My replacement was much flatter but it is luck of the draw if you get a stock one. Gulfcoast robotics sells a better build plate if you really want to go that route. The installation of the magnetic sheet is critical to a flat bed. The stealthburner (swissburner) was pretty huge for cooling. Linear rails have reduced by maintenance and added accuracy and speed potential. Dual Z was big for my particular printer. (tons of Z issues after printing many hours) Klipper was actually huge though. Input shaper and pressure advance tuning allowed me to print faster. Also Marlin will actually pause once the buffer is full. (not an issue with Klipper) If the printer pauses and creates little zits at high speeds, you are pushing the 32 bit board and Marlin past its capabilities.
Adding insulation under the bed was cheap and easy and helps it warm the bed faster. (mine is an old Ender 3 Pro) A slightly higher wattage ceramic heater for the heater block was good. (faster warm up) The nozzle of course is huge. A quality nozzle that is seasoned with a single drop of mineral oil. Direct drive is big. Tweaking the setting in Klipper for the CR touch was big. (so it knows where the probe is in relation to the actual nozzle!!) My printer is tuned an ready to print. I run ABL and it probes 25 points 2 times on each point. (what a difference probing 2 times made!) I learned a lot and printed a lot. It is still and Ender 3 though. It is and will always be a bed slinger.
A full on switchwire (corexz) conversion is a possibility for this printer. The Sonic Pad has been a pain. It disconnects during large prints. I hope to resolve this by changing the USB cable yet again or maybe a software update will fix it. (start the print and hope for the best) I had to remove my BTT SKR mini and install the Creality 4.2.7 to get it working with the Sonic Pad. (another expense but it made life easy)
I think at this point, it is going to stay how it is. I would rather spend my time working on a printer that is not a bed slinger. The Ender 5 is NOT corexy but looks like it is. The new Ender 5 S1 looks pretty nice. (paired with my Sonic Pad if I get it working) The longer version of the sprite extruder is interesting.
I ordered a Bambu Lab X1 Carbon. (that fixes everything, at least in theory) I have high hopes for the X1 Carbon. It is expensive but so were all of my mods to the Ender and I still have a bed slinger.
I think that the Ender 5 S1 is the best Creality option at this point. It comes with Marlin but Klipper is great. Sonic Pad is wonderful when it isn't failing. I would have to do OctoKlipper at some point if I bought the Ender 5 if I can't make the Sonic Pad reliable. (I love that you just edit the printer.cfg instead of compiling firmware) I was planning on going with the Ender 5 and upgrading the z axis, the bed, and eventually modding it to be corexy. The Bambu Lab is already corexy and is faster than the Ender 5 is capable of being even after the mods. The P1P is $699 and just as capable of fast PLA printing if you add the part cooling fan ($35).
A lot is going to change in 2023 from what I can tell. Part of me will miss the constant upgrade path. I may start building a Voron to fill that void. I may just concentrate on 3D design instead. I might start with the Voron 0 or maybe the 2.4. I already have a large format printer, the Biqu B1 SE Plus for my large stuff. (bedslinger)
I guess my goal is to use the Bambu for most things. Use the large format Biqu for large things and keep the Ender for when I need more than one printer at a time. I will build a Voron just because I want to.
Where did you get the screw and nut? I can't find them and want to try this.
Aliexpress.
But honestly, id pass on these.
I made a more up to date video about them on my channel
Hi you got a source for the Teflon leadscrews plz
Anti-backlash spring force should be directed the same direction as gravity, not the opposite way.
Most youtube videos show the connection wrong. Are you aware of any video showing it correctly. I tried connecting correctly on an Ender Neo and I had problems with the screws getting in the way of the filament.
Your discovery may be the cause of the early wear of the lead screws.
FLIP your motors and you might find you get your missing MM back.. maybe.