Will this Z axis anti backlash nut improve your 3D printer accuracy?
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- Опубликовано: 6 янв 2023
- In this video I will install the commonly available spring loaded anti backlash nut for the T8 lead screw on my 3d printer Z axis. Then I will use the dial indicator to verify if it does anything to eliminate the backlash.
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In the previous video, you showed that there is a spring in the stepper motor that is responsible for the shift in the Z axis. I personally found that on my Ender 5 Plus printer, the 2 motors have a clearance of about 2 mm from the axis. And I wrote to you that I solved it with an axial bearing between the motor and the trapezoidal thread coupling... It works perfectly. Now I have all the layers exactly the same. On all 12 printers where I made this modification. Greet from Slovakia.
I've seen other youtubers doing this kind of upgrades, even many years back, and they all came to the very same conclusions: it does not work or at best is not worth the time and money, at a certain point we are better off buying a way more expensive 3D FDM printer, that is based on other technologies, specially because every year their prices falls
unless you're accelerating more than 9,800mm/s^2 on the z, there's no point for anti backlash nuts.
Sorry, this not solutions
Yeah this video is lacking a lot of basic understanding
What's wrong with the "olde worlde" method of spacing two nuts with threaded studs and dialing out the backlash that way? I understand that this method requires periodic adjustment as the nuts wear, but at least it's as close to zero backlash as makes no difference when set up correctly and produces close to zero drag unless the lead screw is badly bent.
Kerk motion products has had a near zero backlash nut for decades. It's accuracy is 50 Micro-inch (0.0013 mm). I used them with extremely accurate positioning. The design you chose will never work for precision location. It's a 2 piece spline assemble with the spring only for opposing force. the backlash is adjusted out by rotating the 2 nuts and locking them in place. 30 years ago they were using Teflon coated ss lead screws that were very precise with extreme location accuracy. you can always build a lookup reference table to account for any positional error.
This would lead one to suspect structural flexing rather than backlash in the threads alone. Place the indicator between different assemblies to locate lost motion appearing as backlash. Like bearing supports to screw shaft ends? Compensating nut to screw end? Bed to gantry in different planes? Bed to base? This could ultimately be a stack up of several points which can appear insignificant on their own. Write yourself a looping G-code Z move and go on the hunt?
Having started my desktop CNC experience in CNC mills, I can see one flaw in your final testing and conclusion. The two nut halves need little to to play between them. You can clearly see a degree or two of movement of the small nut when moving the lead screw back and forth. This shows there will be no improvement in backlash. Effectively, Only additional friction has been added for no benefit. To fit/patch a bad nut set, use a point punch to expand the brass at two points on either side for the small nut's tabs. Then, file the protruding metal down to create a tight fit and eliminate the slack. This will make the anti-backlash screws actually anti backlash.
Solve the problem with belt drive Z axis.
Fundamentally the anti-backlash nut you are using is a anti-slip nut if you use a sized spring load. For anti-backlash, the two opposing nuts should be adjusted to minimize play (limit friction) and the spacing locked. The spring should only be used to aid in the adjustment only. That means the spring load needs to be greater that the maximum applied load. The moment your applied force exceed the spring force you will get backlash if you don't have fixed nut spacing or the play is too large.
Congratulations, and thanks for a well-presented and helpful episode!
Excellent exploration of AB Nuts. Thanks!
Z axis is the least movement axis among the 4. A 3D printed PLA nut works best for me. Let the top end of the z lead screw be free don’t bind them to a bearing. Let it be guided by the linear shaft like the original Prusa and like Anet A8. Sometimes is inconsistent extrusion and gears of the xtruder causing irregularities. Tune extrusion and also Y. I never use any special stepper motor shaft coupler or spring nut. Sometimes some parts need to be plastic or softer material to absorb the vibrations don’t go all metal. Thanks for making this video ❤ and sharing your findings.
I had issues with my Sidewinder X2 (uneven layers) and several people told me "get anti backlash nuts". I just didn't get their advise - nothing an anti backlash nut could do, would improve my problem - rather make it worse.
I installed the anti-backlash nut and spring on the top of the fixed nut, This keeps pressure downward on the gantry, Put the fixed nut in from the bottom, and the spring and backlash nut on the top of the bracket. This way the spring is working with the weight of the gantry to maintain a firm downward position on the lead screws.
Literally the ONLY video on all of RUclips where they didn't install the anti-backlash screws upside down, LMAO.
My understanding is that in the case of the Oldham couplers installed on the top they might introduce the detected backlash. Especially with cheap, less accurate couplers. When installing the anti backlash nut at the bottom, as you mentioned, the preload might not be enough to counter the backlash under the weight of the gantry.
This series is so good! Where is the rest of the videos where you finish upgrading your ender 3? Im do adicted to them, replicating almost all of these upgrades to my own ender 3. Great work!
Nice video again