Beautiful...... and the best thing is this is a ‘trilogy in 4 parts’. More Rotary is always a good thing. From my view, exposing yourself on RUclips has paid off immensely with help from this fabulous community, for you and us. Strategies like how to approach running new CNC programs, and how to use video equipment without flicker. I never knew...... wish I could add something useful ....... maybe one day I’ll can payback too. 👍👍😎👍👍
I built a few machines using the open beam. For stops I actually just drilled and tapped for a 5mm bolt that went through the groove section and put in a pan head.
How did I only just discover your channel recently?? Outrageous. I love your style, and you’ve had some great projects. I’m also expat kiwi in Central Europe, living in the land of TOS machines for the last decade. I’m just a hobbyist, not a pro, or a youtuber, but this particular video caught my eye. I literally mount cameras on film sets for a living, that’s my job. Though our camera’s are a little more complicated than what you’re using here. Anyway, great channel, great videos. Love it.
G'day Kim. Thanks for the kind words. You are in a nice place there. Must be a fun job playing with the film set lego :) Are you related to a Worthington who was an RNZAF GSI in the late 80's early 90's? My recruit course corporal was a Worthingon. No idea what his first name was. For use he was Corporal :)
@@RotarySMP Hey Mark! I actually don’t know any other Worthington’s from NZ. But my mothers father was a Major in WWII, and my fathers brother in law was until recently very highly ranked in the Air Force. The film set Lego is fun. But it can be a little stressful these days. American actors were on strike from July until,recently, so I’m going back to work in a few weeks for the first time in 6 months. But that means my Deckel mill and the TOS lathe have been fully refurbished in that time. Better than new! We actually shot a few films in Austria last year… Extraction 2, in Wien, and a John Wick sequel in Hallstatt. Good times…. Anyway, keep up the good work. And FYI I have a good line on spare parts for TOS machines if you or your friends are in need. Helps when you speak Czech :))
"a kiwi skipper on your boat" oh burn! ... they went from favourites to washing out, incredible. and Ineos UK from underdog to the one-to-beat. The fact that they reach 40+ knots on a 10-12 knot breeze is amazing. they are definitely the future of sailing.
Great to watch. You can real feel that the two cancelled AC75 regattas in 2020 has left them all a bit behind trhe eight ball. I think the Prada cup final will be awesome, as that last round robin race between Prada and Inios was fantastic. I hope the America's cup is not an anti climax, one way or the other.
@@RotarySMP yeah, and they never recovered fully from american magic "crash" (fall?) even though they recorded the fastest course speed (an amazing 53 knots!). Really excited both for the Prada Cup final and the America's Cup against the kiwis. The stand is also looking great, looking forward to the 4th episode in the trilogy lol.
@@Rostol Thanks. I just hope the AC is not an anti climax. It is a disadvantage for the defender to not got through the hardening up process of the Prada cup.
Nice work! I too came here off of ToT suggestion. It was cool to see you using the “distance to” tip from a comment on the previous vid. My suggestion would be to include something to stop the extrusion from running all the way out such as an end plate or a couple of t-nuts in the track
I've really enjoyed this series .I'm not into camera stuff so I probably don't appreciate exactly how helpful it is for you but like I said great videos. Thanks man.
Well spotted. I feel like Quasimodo when I move it. I had thought about making some 3D printed spacer ring to pad out the 80x80 counterweight to better fit the 100x100 and prevent ringing, but forgot to do that in my frenzy of completion. Glueing some felt on it a good idea.
It looks great! Seems to move great too! So, time to start preparing episode 5 of 3 - "CNCing the Camera Stand", for automated moving shots while you work :-)
Hi Peter, I am just happy to nearly finish a project. Before YT I was a terror at starting projects, but not finishing them. Your Anvils are progressing nicely. There will be some lucky blacksmiths.
I like how you implemented Edge Precision's advice :) I've been doing more or less the same thing at work, it was one of the first things I was taught. Though I usually just eyeball the remaining length. I really like the roller assembly! I had a customer once who wanted to do something similar and they insisted on using PEHD plates instead of rollers. Rollers just work soo much better. I'm lazy I'd probably just buy those t-nuts and call it done =)
Thanks. That will be the plan. So far on the mini lathe, the "crashes" were generally lack of understanding of its (lack of) capablities. Like stalling the spindle, or weak work holding.
I took a look and have 52mm filters, so I need to order one for the crash cam. I don't bother for the other lens. These canon lens are up to 20 years old. The 85 has some weirdness in the focus mechanism.
nicely done! (16:50): I like fusion 360s adaptive clearing for getting into those corners slowly and not breaking endmills I don't know how your cam software works but if I'm doing any drilling and the diameter of the drill is appropriate drilling those tight corners first can really save the end mill. (In Fusion I use a sketch to mark the entry point of the drill and to mark where I want the endmill to enter on the next operation to avoid ramping and maintaining a full depth of cut).
Nice, I love the smooth motion! One suggestion is to move the monitor (and maybe other accessories) off the camera and onto the arm, that way you can get it closer to the mill without obstructing your view etc.
I need to do some paying around how I set up the camera on that new stand. Whether I move the power, light and monitor off the camera cage, or find it better to leave it integrated.
Thanks. I have few tools (index face mill, engraver, spot drill) which are always the same tool number. I dont yet have enough tool holders to keep all the drills and end mills in dedicated holders.
I'm also working on a camera stand based on Atilla's design, although I'm without a CNC at the moment. I was trying to 3d print the main carriage and have been having rigidity issues so the project is on hold for now. Nice to see someone build this out how I intended to do it. Atilla's a madman for hand cutting and filing all those aluminum parts.
@@RotarySMP I'm about to start back up on this project and I was wondering if you could tell me the dimensions of your base? My base is already fabricated but I'm slightly worried about tipping still and I'm not smart enough to do an equilibrium calculation like yourself. My base is some 3x2 tube steel with a 3/8" 12x12 plate on the bottom/top of the tubing with a bearing in the middle so the column can rotate. It weighs about 50Lbs by itself and is sitting on 4 2" casters at the corners. Here's a picture if it helps i.imgur.com/7CtDBpM.png Thanks in advance. Seeing yours coming together really makes me want to finish this so I can start making some more videos in the shop.
@@mojomakesit6468 The five rollers on mine are on a 660mm diameter circle. That is a bit over two feet. If your base is only 12x12, it would have to be a lot heavier to counter balance a decent length camera arm with a camera at full extension. Maybe a good idea to weld four tubes extending another 6 inches each from the corners, and put you casters on the ends.
@@RotarySMP Ah sorry my bad. Mine is 18x18, but a 12x12 3/8" plate in the middle. I got it welded up and attached today so once I solve my rigidity issues with the carriage I'll see if I need to extend the base. Thanks for the reply, I'll be sure to send you a picture once mine is done.
It is all from RUclips studio. The royalty free music which they offer. Click on your youtube channel, go to studio, and scroll down to the media library.
Beautiful work sir! And a good catch with lowering the pulley to fit in the door. Does the counterweight rattle in the tube when moved? I would almost be tempted to add some delrin around it if it did. Anyways I’ll stay tuned for the next video
Thanks. It is like a bell! I had planned to 3D print something to take up the space between the 80x80 counter weight and the 100x100 column, but in the frenzy of completion, I forgot. Felt was suggested, which is probably a good solution.
I'm late to the party since this video is almost a year old, but I was thinking about the tool snap. You went from about 5% flute engagement to about 40% or 45% engagement when the tool hit that corner. That's a lot more axial twisting force on the flutes, and a good bit of sudden side force in the direction of travel. Either could have snapped the endmill. I suppose you have addressed this long ago, but it seems that something in the CAD or CAM software should have detected that increased cutting load and slowed the feed rate for the last few mm. Perhaps there is some way to configure a feed slowdown at pocket ends if it doesn't happen automatically.
1:39 Bitte? I mean, sorry what? :-) 2:51 better save then sorry, hm? The end result is going to look amazing! I had my doubts that the base was stable enough, but it seems you were right... I guess moving the cable clamp closer to the U-thingy and then pulling on the cable and pushing the sled downwards while tightening the screws would make it tighter. At least that worked for the ceiling lights I installed recently. Yes, this task works best with three hands....
Hmm that brake pad handle should look downwards in the locked state, looking up something will catch in there. Looked like like these adjustable handles with push button. But nice.. those camera slides will look pro 😀.
Yeah, I can position that handle wherever I want it to sit. The felt will probably take a set over the next weeks, so I'll have t rotate it a couple of times.
another cncporn.. about the thread for brakepad adjuster, since it frequently tighten or loosen and the bolt is harder than alumunium, do you consider using soft material like copper/brass for the bolt or put helicoil to preserve that thread?
Do you have an anodizers near to you? That can be the final step that makes the parts look professional. I know that it is easy enough to do at home, but my local one seems to charge £15 regardless of the size or quantity of the job so I haven't bothered trying. Probably clear to match the extrusion, but purple is never wrong. Re the America's Cup, I have found myself wondering how the huge flag and (US) national anthem at the beginning of each day feels for the approximately half the onboard crew who are not American. I would have liked to have seen a closer match between Prada and Patriot, mainly to have more days of sailing to watch.
Good idea. I don't know. Austria industry migrated from Vienna to the west decades ago, and such companies are normally closely itegrated into the car idustry and their volume. The sort of small vendor who wil take a walk in €20 job seems to have vanished. It is a shame that the two first AC75 regatta's last year got cancelled, as the racig so far her largely between teams at different stges of development. Will be interesting so see Inios and Prada line up for the Prada Cup finals. The Way Inios was looking in December, I would never have imagined their turn around.
When you trim the edges, why do you use the tip of the mill do do a square cut? Is that better than cutting at full depth , but less material sideways if that makes sense? In wood cnc-ing we always used to cut with the side at full depth when trimming sides to save the corners of the tool.
Good point. Because I can easily set the depth of cut in the CAM software, but the step over always seems hidden in sub menus. I guess I just need to become more familiar with it.
Kiwi in Germany ? Nice channel, like the video's ! And yep, watched the AC over the last weeks, incredible technique but sadly less tactical and close matchracing as with he ' old' displacement monohulls.
I am just wrapping my head around the six roller design of the slide for the horizontal beam. Could it be that the middle rollers are doing exactly nothing, like: taking no load at all? Of course they don't hurt and they are installed now anyways, but... just thinking ;-).
I actually have a mist coolant system. Sitting on a shelf somewhere. Should install it. Also cleaning out the coolant tank, and the pump would probably provide more flood coolant pressure.
All ways make sure that you are clamping exactly over supports, parallels, jacks, shims etc. Doing so is a guarantee that the part bein milled will stay fixed.
Thanks for the feedback. This stand is a huge improvement verse the tripod. I tried that, but on the camera, it moves with the camera and is only facing the wrong way about 50% of the time. On the cross beam, it seems to always face the wrong way. My space is pretty cramped, so I am constantly moving this stand around in all directions.
@@RotarySMP That sounds sensible. I work mostly with still photography (just for fun), and I have in some occasions made a temporary dolly for my tripod, so I can really see the advantages for you as a more or less professional videographer. Keep up the good work. Both educational and entertaining. Right up there with TOT. :)
New foiling monohulls are beautiful, but I think they need to redesign foils to be more durable. That would increase chances of surviving dunks like AM have done.
@@RotarySMP My sailing coach once told us a story of guy hitting carp while sailing on his moth. The whole foil just broke off with guy shooting out of the boat.
Because at least some of it has been lurking in the base of that machine since before I had it. Cleaning that out is going to be a seriously gross job.
Don't panic but I think you may need a 5th part after the trilogy in four parts. Part 5 will show to making of the mostly harmless bottom weight you will need to stabilize the whole rig. The whole thing seems to dance a bit after touching it and a large weight at the bottom might reduce this (a lot)
The problem is not a mass problem, it is that the floor is really uneven tiles, and the Ikea office seat rollers have a function where the lock as the weight comes off.
I picked that up as a bycatch to some other stuff. It is actually a modification to an Emcomat SL lathe into a drill press. www.lathes.co.uk/unimat/ I only use it as a taping stand for small taps, when I dont wasnt them crocked and broken. Normally I use the electric screw driver. :)
@@RotarySMP Interesting. Thanks for that :-) New question, I saw an Olympus Pen F or similar in one of the shots, but what model Panasonic is that? A slightly older G7 or similar perhaps? Do you have a speed booster or straight adaptor behind the EF lens?
@@fredio54 I started with an EM5, and inherited that EPL5 after dropping it (and replacing it for the owner). The EPL5 is my crash cam, as it has a buggered up control wheel. I picked up a used G81 (G80 or G85 in some markets) which is my A camera. I really like it. Just a lot of minor improvments on the inerface verses the Olmpus's. I have both Viltrox EF-M1 and EF-M2 straight through and speedbooster. Use the SP mostly, but the straight through for my 17-55 2.8 EF-S zoom on some shots. Mostly I shoot with the Olypus 25 1.8
@@RotarySMP Neat. Thanks. Bad luck on damaging the EPL5! I have GX9 and GH5 myself, and I do like the two Olympus 1.8s that I have so far (45 and 75). Chromatic aberation is there in both, but the images are so sharp when it's not an issue with the particular shot. And the footage looks great, menus easy, good choice ;-)
@@fredio54I got the G81 largely for usablity. Location of card slot, focus peaking and Mic input are the three things that really made a difference for me. When you are constantly trying to film each step of what you do, these kinds of things become far more important than you first think. 1080P is such low resolution, that even the EF50 1.4 speed boosted to f1 is usable, be it pretty soft and washed out.
Thanks. Only fleetingly. I knew I had about 8kg of lead, and when the metal supplier had that 80x80mm steel drop, it was clear I'd do a counterweight. I think it would be difficult to find a constant force spring to collapse to near zero and extend to 170cm.
Is it too obvious to believe you'll get that cable tighter on the eyelet if you slide that clamp thing closer? Another idea is to tightly wrap lockwire around between the eyelet and the clamp and tuck the ends in. I love the project, and the vid series is excellent.
Thanks for the feedback. Easier said than done. Remember, this was the second time I did that, as I already did the other end to the counterweight. There is no "sliding" of the clamp on the cable. No chance.
i.imgur.com/xLUqWo7.jpg This was my solution to the tool release button. The green button on the head lights up when it is in a toolchange cycle and not interlocked. There's already a hole with plastic cap in the head, just have to knock it out and run wires back alongside the hydraulic line.
Why not make the arm telescoping by cutting it in half. Mounting it slot to slot and drilling a hole for a t-nut and a wing-screw. Use threaded standoffs on to t-bolts on the sliding part to keep it from drooping.
I am finding that length really useful. Rather then changing it and needing to muck around adding an extension for specific jobss, this is fast and easy to use. You quickly forget how much nicer it is to use than a tripod, until you pull out the tripod for some B roll.
@@RotarySMP I was thinking more along the lines of space it takes up rather than making the arm longer. By making some sort of telescopic part to the arm the overall foot print can be reduced. The shorter the arms are when taking a shot the less wobble it will have and that extra 800mm of stick out in the back won't get caught on a machine or human navigating around it. That might not be one of your design goals though. If your happy; it works.
@@mnoxman Yeah, you are right that the stick out the back is sometimes in the way, but the big picture is that it is great to have really fast adjustment.
@@RotarySMP that would be easy to fix by centralizing all power next to the legs, and making on singular power switch. I would probably also move the monitor to the extrusion, so that the camera is lighter on the video head.
@@klaernie I went to centralised power with NP-F battery and a Blind spot power jumkie, but the step down to 5V in the power jumkie leave a horrible PWM whine in the audio if I forget to unplug it. I had hoped to just leave the receive powered.
@@RotarySMP yeah, that a show stopper. Maybe there is a way to use a linear regulator, would waste a bit more than a switching regulator, but for audio worth it. What voltage needs to be stepped down to 5V?
I have one of those microphone [spring] arms, it can barely hold 300g and is quite constrained in movement, though wobbly. I wanted to hang a 2kg beamer and it couldn't do it.
@@ligius3 I use a free standing one, the spring one that came with my mic drove me nuts. Using a magic arm is also great for supporting a light or GoPro. The magic arm can clamp around the mic pole easily.
@@RotarySMP So maybe sprichst du deutsch? 😁 I was wondering about your tools because they are often more common in europe. But your accent reminded me of another RUclipsr from new Zealand. 😅
@@RotarySMP Ich bin Deutscher, wusste aber natürlich nicht, wie viel du verstehst, deshalb habe ich halbwegs versucht auf Englisch zu kommunizieren, wobei das nicht meine größte Stärke ist. 😅
If it is possible Preset your tools in your tool library in the controller, I use an Edge Technology Touch Off Gauge but there are many types of this design with a given height of the Gauge
I dont have enough tool holders to have everything set as a tool library. I tend to have to set a set for each job. I do all the tool setting first, but just missed that one tool reference in the tool path file.
@@RotarySMP I Understand that same here plus my tool changer can only hold 12 tools so I have to do a new set up every job if it is 1 off's or multiple part jobs . I do like the Tool Height Setter a lot
@@benlivengoodjr8314 I have one of those chinese tool heightsetters. Did a bit of a trial with it, but havet used it lately. It would be a good ide to connect it up more permanently (so far it was only a bodged up job) and combine it into my work flow.
@@RotarySMP Nice I have an Older Haas mill and really want the Probe system/Tool setter more modern but the Hiamer and dial tool setter gets me within .001 which for what I do is good enough
Tool release from a distance - dangerous. It should beep or toggle on for 1s first wait then release - hearing the release starting 1s without release might trigger brain to go catch tool..🤓
I really need to redo all the electrics in that garage. Lighting, power sockets, Move the three phase onto a diffent feed etc. Bummer that the hardware stores are closed due lockdown. I guess new lighting will be LED.
@@RotarySMP Not all LEDs lamps are flicker free sadly. i think lamps make a satisfying DIY Project. but i can also imagine you already have more projects than time.
@@RotarySMP yes 1/100 i better but yes you are right that will low the light, but not that much, and if you have problem whit the light in the current set up, maybe you can add a little ISO if you aperture is all open
Наука
This old Tony recommended your channel on his latest video and I'm glad he did!
Very nice work!
I'll be catching up on your past videos.
Thanks for dropping by. Welcome.
Beautiful...... and the best thing is this is a ‘trilogy in 4 parts’. More Rotary is always a good thing. From my view, exposing yourself on RUclips has paid off immensely with help from this fabulous community, for you and us. Strategies like how to approach running new CNC programs, and how to use video equipment without flicker. I never knew...... wish I could add something useful ....... maybe one day I’ll can payback too. 👍👍😎👍👍
Thanks for the kind feedback.
And don't forget the stop at the other end to prevent 'oops, too far out' accidents.
Yeah. I will add a plate.
I built a few machines using the open beam.
For stops I actually just drilled and tapped for a 5mm bolt that went through the groove section and put in a pan head.
@@DaRoach5882 I considered that, but I have a CNC mill and CAD and can therefore overcomplicate even the simplest task :)
Tony sent me here after 48 mins of therapy. He said you was some kind of CNC savant.
THat was a very kind shout out from Tony. Welcome. Hope you stay and find something you like.
How did I only just discover your channel recently?? Outrageous. I love your style, and you’ve had some great projects.
I’m also expat kiwi in Central Europe, living in the land of TOS machines for the last decade. I’m just a hobbyist, not a pro, or a youtuber, but this particular video caught my eye. I literally mount cameras on film sets for a living, that’s my job. Though our camera’s are a little more complicated than what you’re using here.
Anyway, great channel, great videos. Love it.
G'day Kim. Thanks for the kind words.
You are in a nice place there. Must be a fun job playing with the film set lego :)
Are you related to a Worthington who was an RNZAF GSI in the late 80's early 90's? My recruit course corporal was a Worthingon. No idea what his first name was. For use he was Corporal :)
@@RotarySMP Hey Mark! I actually don’t know any other Worthington’s from NZ. But my mothers father was a Major in WWII, and my fathers brother in law was until recently very highly ranked in the Air Force.
The film set Lego is fun. But it can be a little stressful these days. American actors were on strike from July until,recently, so I’m going back to work in a few weeks for the first time in 6 months. But that means my Deckel mill and the TOS lathe have been fully refurbished in that time. Better than new!
We actually shot a few films in Austria last year… Extraction 2, in Wien, and a John Wick sequel in Hallstatt. Good times….
Anyway, keep up the good work. And FYI I have a good line on spare parts for TOS machines if you or your friends are in need. Helps when you speak Czech :))
"a kiwi skipper on your boat" oh burn! ... they went from favourites to washing out, incredible. and Ineos UK from underdog to the one-to-beat.
The fact that they reach 40+ knots on a 10-12 knot breeze is amazing. they are definitely the future of sailing.
Great to watch. You can real feel that the two cancelled AC75 regattas in 2020 has left them all a bit behind trhe eight ball. I think the Prada cup final will be awesome, as that last round robin race between Prada and Inios was fantastic.
I hope the America's cup is not an anti climax, one way or the other.
@@RotarySMP yeah, and they never recovered fully from american magic "crash" (fall?) even though they recorded the fastest course speed (an amazing 53 knots!).
Really excited both for the Prada Cup final and the America's Cup against the kiwis.
The stand is also looking great, looking forward to the 4th episode in the trilogy lol.
@@Rostol Thanks. I just hope the AC is not an anti climax. It is a disadvantage for the defender to not got through the hardening up process of the Prada cup.
It's really coming together... Good to see firm favorite in use (Ice cream carton & Unimat tapping jig).
Thanks. FIrm fvourites they are.
Nice work! I too came here off of ToT suggestion. It was cool to see you using the “distance to” tip from a comment on the previous vid.
My suggestion would be to include something to stop the extrusion from running all the way out such as an end plate or a couple of t-nuts in the track
Welcome. Good point. It ha already been suggested, and I am just working on an over complicated solution :)
That’s a beauty, nicely done! Now CNC it for automated camera tracking ;)
That might be polishing a turd :)
@@RotarySMP You've done it before and everyone loved it 😀
@@RotarySMP soooo... Second project from now? :P
@@besenyeim Don't hold your breathe on that one. :)
I've really enjoyed this series .I'm not into camera stuff so I probably don't appreciate exactly how helpful it is for you but like I said great videos. Thanks man.
Thanks for watching.
very good rotarySMP..very thanks for your time
Thanks for watching.
Some more felt on the counterweight may help reduce the bell-like ringing while rolling around the shop. Excellent work so far!
Well spotted. I feel like Quasimodo when I move it. I had thought about making some 3D printed spacer ring to pad out the 80x80 counterweight to better fit the 100x100 and prevent ringing, but forgot to do that in my frenzy of completion. Glueing some felt on it a good idea.
Using the small Emco Unimat SL for thread cutting is a great idea
It works quite well as a threading stand for little threads. I should replce the pulley with some thing more comfortable though.
@@RotarySMP I'll try it next time too, I only recently got a Unimat SL as a gift
@@sd90racer I got this one thrown in with something else I bought years ago. It was already converted to a drill stand.
It looks great! Seems to move great too! So, time to start preparing episode 5 of 3 - "CNCing the Camera Stand", for automated moving shots while you work :-)
:)
@@RotarySMP LOL
Came here from ThisOldTony’s vid. Love the stuff you’re doing. Glad to be subscribed!
Wecome and thanks for subscribing. Hope to keep you around :)
This Old Tony brought me here. And I Love it!
Glad to see you here. Thanks for the feedback.
👍💪 now all you need is some belts and servos. To do those auto dolly and pan shots.
Hi Peter, I am just happy to nearly finish a project. Before YT I was a terror at starting projects, but not finishing them.
Your Anvils are progressing nicely. There will be some lucky blacksmiths.
I like how you implemented Edge Precision's advice :) I've been doing more or less the same thing at work, it was one of the first things I was taught. Though I usually just eyeball the remaining length.
I really like the roller assembly! I had a customer once who wanted to do something similar and they insisted on using PEHD plates instead of rollers. Rollers just work soo much better.
I'm lazy I'd probably just buy those t-nuts and call it done =)
Thanks. Good call on the T-Nuts. I sometime forget that you can just buy stuff :) The rollers feel pretty nice.
Good to see your newly learnt cnc methods being used this time around. Also apply it to your cnc mini lathe to avoid some crashes
Thanks. That will be the plan. So far on the mini lathe, the "crashes" were generally lack of understanding of its (lack of) capablities. Like stalling the spindle, or weak work holding.
I'm now very much inspired to almost getting around to upgrading my Frankenstein camera rig. Thanks for sharing.
Go for it. You will make great content of it.
It's looking awesome. Don't forget a filter holder to sit in front of your lenses, as a Swarf protector.
I took a look and have 52mm filters, so I need to order one for the crash cam. I don't bother for the other lens. These canon lens are up to 20 years old. The 85 has some weirdness in the focus mechanism.
nicely done! (16:50): I like fusion 360s adaptive clearing for getting into those corners slowly and not breaking endmills I don't know how your cam software works but if I'm doing any drilling and the diameter of the drill is appropriate drilling those tight corners first can really save the end mill. (In Fusion I use a sketch to mark the entry point of the drill and to mark where I want the endmill to enter on the next operation to avoid ramping and maintaining a full depth of cut).
Good idea. I need to keep learning what this software is capable, but it is pretty ancient.
Looks like way more than $10,000! ;)
Cool, so I can spend more saved money on other tools.
TOT sent me, very nice modding of the mini-lathe. Subbed, although I have no machining machines...
Welcome. There are a few hours of content for you to catch up on :)
Flicker Free! Nice! Also enjoying to foba build, might make one when I can afford the material lol
Thanks. Go for it.
Yay more parts!
Thanks for watching.
Nice, I love the smooth motion! One suggestion is to move the monitor (and maybe other accessories) off the camera and onto the arm, that way you can get it closer to the mill without obstructing your view etc.
I need to do some paying around how I set up the camera on that new stand. Whether I move the power, light and monitor off the camera cage, or find it better to leave it integrated.
Verry nice job you make , I see that you make a safety high stop 👍👍Now gif al your tools a number and put it in a tooltable. Good work 😉👍👍
Thanks. I have few tools (index face mill, engraver, spot drill) which are always the same tool number. I dont yet have enough tool holders to keep all the drills and end mills in dedicated holders.
Great project mate..thanks for sharing..;-)
Thanks for watching.
I must say...im impressed with all your videos! Especially when you made your own aluminum plates!
Thanks for the positive feedback.
I'm also working on a camera stand based on Atilla's design, although I'm without a CNC at the moment. I was trying to 3d print the main carriage and have been having rigidity issues so the project is on hold for now. Nice to see someone build this out how I intended to do it.
Atilla's a madman for hand cutting and filing all those aluminum parts.
Aluminium doesn't put up much resistance. Sometime its it seems faster to just do it by hand. But for the 8 uprights CNC was great.
@@RotarySMP I'm about to start back up on this project and I was wondering if you could tell me the dimensions of your base? My base is already fabricated but I'm slightly worried about tipping still and I'm not smart enough to do an equilibrium calculation like yourself.
My base is some 3x2 tube steel with a 3/8" 12x12 plate on the bottom/top of the tubing with a bearing in the middle so the column can rotate. It weighs about 50Lbs by itself and is sitting on 4 2" casters at the corners.
Here's a picture if it helps i.imgur.com/7CtDBpM.png
Thanks in advance. Seeing yours coming together really makes me want to finish this so I can start making some more videos in the shop.
@@mojomakesit6468 The five rollers on mine are on a 660mm diameter circle. That is a bit over two feet. If your base is only 12x12, it would have to be a lot heavier to counter balance a decent length camera arm with a camera at full extension. Maybe a good idea to weld four tubes extending another 6 inches each from the corners, and put you casters on the ends.
@@RotarySMP Ah sorry my bad. Mine is 18x18, but a 12x12 3/8" plate in the middle. I got it welded up and attached today so once I solve my rigidity issues with the carriage I'll see if I need to extend the base.
Thanks for the reply, I'll be sure to send you a picture once mine is done.
Wow! That bandsaw actually gets used to saw things!!! :)
It is a secondary function to the primary usage as Anvil!
Maybe a crank handle for that little manual drill press you use for tapping would be a fun quick project. Just an idea :)
Yeah, good idea.
I always enjoy the music in your videos - where can I hear more of it?
It is all from RUclips studio. The royalty free music which they offer. Click on your youtube channel, go to studio, and scroll down to the media library.
Great video, really inspiring, I was wondering, what is your CAM software ?
An ancient version of featurecam.
Beautiful work sir! And a good catch with lowering the pulley to fit in the door. Does the counterweight rattle in the tube when moved? I would almost be tempted to add some delrin around it if it did. Anyways I’ll stay tuned for the next video
Thanks. It is like a bell! I had planned to 3D print something to take up the space between the 80x80 counter weight and the 100x100 column, but in the frenzy of completion, I forgot. Felt was suggested, which is probably a good solution.
RotarySMP felt is actually a pretty great idea. Thanks for replying!
I'm late to the party since this video is almost a year old, but I was thinking about the tool snap. You went from about 5% flute engagement to about 40% or 45% engagement when the tool hit that corner. That's a lot more axial twisting force on the flutes, and a good bit of sudden side force in the direction of travel. Either could have snapped the endmill.
I suppose you have addressed this long ago, but it seems that something in the CAD or CAM software should have detected that increased cutting load and slowed the feed rate for the last few mm. Perhaps there is some way to configure a feed slowdown at pocket ends if it doesn't happen automatically.
Good point. Yes, this was my error, not the softwares failing.
1:39 Bitte? I mean, sorry what? :-) 2:51 better save then sorry, hm? The end result is going to look amazing! I had my doubts that the base was stable enough, but it seems you were right... I guess moving the cable clamp closer to the U-thingy and then pulling on the cable and pushing the sled downwards while tightening the screws would make it tighter. At least that worked for the ceiling lights I installed recently. Yes, this task works best with three hands....
I reckon they will knight Dean Barker for taking one of the opposition :)
When you took out the angle grinder to cut the slot, I was sure you would bugger it. Looking forward to the last installment.
Thanks for the confidence :-/ Look forward to filming the next episode using this stand.
Hmm that brake pad handle should look downwards in the locked state, looking up something will catch in there. Looked like like these adjustable handles with push button. But nice.. those camera slides will look pro 😀.
Yeah, I can position that handle wherever I want it to sit. The felt will probably take a set over the next weeks, so I'll have t rotate it a couple of times.
another cncporn..
about the thread for brakepad adjuster, since it frequently tighten or loosen and the bolt is harder than alumunium, do you consider using soft material like copper/brass for the bolt or put helicoil to preserve that thread?
Good point. Actually I think Nico has a helicoil set. I'll have to ask him. Thanks.
Do you have an anodizers near to you? That can be the final step that makes the parts look professional. I know that it is easy enough to do at home, but my local one seems to charge £15 regardless of the size or quantity of the job so I haven't bothered trying. Probably clear to match the extrusion, but purple is never wrong.
Re the America's Cup, I have found myself wondering how the huge flag and (US) national anthem at the beginning of each day feels for the approximately half the onboard crew who are not American. I would have liked to have seen a closer match between Prada and Patriot, mainly to have more days of sailing to watch.
Good idea. I don't know. Austria industry migrated from Vienna to the west decades ago, and such companies are normally closely itegrated into the car idustry and their volume. The sort of small vendor who wil take a walk in €20 job seems to have vanished.
It is a shame that the two first AC75 regatta's last year got cancelled, as the racig so far her largely between teams at different stges of development. Will be interesting so see Inios and Prada line up for the Prada Cup finals. The Way Inios was looking in December, I would never have imagined their turn around.
When you trim the edges, why do you use the tip of the mill do do a square cut? Is that better than cutting at full depth , but less material sideways if that makes sense? In wood cnc-ing we always used to cut with the side at full depth when trimming sides to save the corners of the tool.
Good point. Because I can easily set the depth of cut in the CAM software, but the step over always seems hidden in sub menus. I guess I just need to become more familiar with it.
Kiwi in Germany ? Nice channel, like the video's ! And yep, watched the AC over the last weeks, incredible technique but sadly less tactical and close matchracing as with he ' old' displacement monohulls.
Close. Austria. The last Luna Rossi v Britannia race had 9 lead changes. Brilliant.
I am just wrapping my head around the six roller design of the slide for the horizontal beam. Could it be that the middle rollers are doing exactly nothing, like: taking no load at all? Of course they don't hurt and they are installed now anyways, but... just thinking ;-).
The system is overconstrained, but the wheels are only plastic and deform.
Looks like one of those misting coolant devices may be well suited to this machine..blows away as well as cools.
I actually have a mist coolant system. Sitting on a shelf somewhere. Should install it. Also cleaning out the coolant tank, and the pump would probably provide more flood coolant pressure.
Hi love the build can you tell where you got the wheels/ bearings for the build ,thanks
I bought them in Amazon. V-Wheels.
All ways make sure that you are clamping exactly over supports, parallels, jacks, shims etc. Doing so is a guarantee that the part bein milled will stay fixed.
Fixturing and clamping is something I always find challenging.
I love your camera stand! Why not fix the monitor directly to the horizontal arm of the band, in stead of the camera?
Thanks for the feedback. This stand is a huge improvement verse the tripod.
I tried that, but on the camera, it moves with the camera and is only facing the wrong way about 50% of the time. On the cross beam, it seems to always face the wrong way. My space is pretty cramped, so I am constantly moving this stand around in all directions.
@@RotarySMP That sounds sensible. I work mostly with still photography (just for fun), and I have in some occasions made a temporary dolly for my tripod, so I can really see the advantages for you as a more or less professional videographer. Keep up the good work. Both educational and
entertaining. Right up there with TOT. :)
@@Myrulv Thanks for the positive feedback.
Just a shame I have a narrow doorway, as a wider more stable base would make it less bouncy.
Have you ever thought of using a constant velocity spring instead of a counter balance?
I hadnt. I already had the lead from recycling the last lead pipes I ripped out of my house. It works really well.
What cad and cam are you using?
CAD is Onshape, CAM is an ancient copy of FeatureCAM
are you in nz? im sitting here in managed isolation in christchurch waiting to get out... day 12! your videos are a welcome distraction
Close. I am IN Vienna :) Glad NZ has kept Covid at bay.
did you have any luck getting the jog increments to work correctly on the pendant?
I didn't get around to it. The two increments which work are the two you really need, so itch doesn't need scratching right now.
@@RotarySMP cool. lemme know if you need any help later.
@@spacehitchhiker4264 Thanks.
New foiling monohulls are beautiful, but I think they need to redesign foils to be more durable. That would increase chances of surviving dunks like AM have done.
Just think if an AC75 hit a submerged log at 40+ knots.
@@RotarySMP My sailing coach once told us a story of guy hitting carp while sailing on his moth. The whole foil just broke off with guy shooting out of the boat.
@@bartekdabrowski4224 Did you follow any of that round the world solo race in the foiling yachts? Madness!
ruclips.net/video/O6k0vaP-KZI/видео.html
Why is the coolant so murky? Shouldn't it be more white and opaque?
Because at least some of it has been lurking in the base of that machine since before I had it. Cleaning that out is going to be a seriously gross job.
@ 19:45 If U cut a 45' Angle on the end of the Coolant pipe...
U will have better control where the coolant goes...
Good idea. Although I might use some loc flex on there sooner or later.
Don't panic but I think you may need a 5th part after the trilogy in four parts.
Part 5 will show to making of the mostly harmless bottom weight you will need to stabilize the whole rig.
The whole thing seems to dance a bit after touching it and a large weight at the bottom might reduce this (a lot)
The problem is not a mass problem, it is that the floor is really uneven tiles, and the Ikea office seat rollers have a function where the lock as the weight comes off.
slightly tightening the cable clamp, pulling on the end with pliers as hard as you can and then tightening them up should do it
No chance. The cable is not going to slide in that clamp, even if the nuts are loose. Probably should have choosen thinner cable rather than 3mm.
There is this chnl called inheritance machining, he made a camera gantry based off of a swing arm lamp, you should have a look, it is amazing
I have been watching their amazing channel. Excellent.
What is the brand/manufacturer/model written on the little drill press in red at 7:15? Looks nice and delicate.
I picked that up as a bycatch to some other stuff. It is actually a modification to an Emcomat SL lathe into a drill press.
www.lathes.co.uk/unimat/
I only use it as a taping stand for small taps, when I dont wasnt them crocked and broken. Normally I use the electric screw driver. :)
@@RotarySMP Interesting. Thanks for that :-) New question, I saw an Olympus Pen F or similar in one of the shots, but what model Panasonic is that? A slightly older G7 or similar perhaps? Do you have a speed booster or straight adaptor behind the EF lens?
@@fredio54 I started with an EM5, and inherited that EPL5 after dropping it (and replacing it for the owner). The EPL5 is my crash cam, as it has a buggered up control wheel.
I picked up a used G81 (G80 or G85 in some markets) which is my A camera. I really like it. Just a lot of minor improvments on the inerface verses the Olmpus's.
I have both Viltrox EF-M1 and EF-M2 straight through and speedbooster. Use the SP mostly, but the straight through for my 17-55 2.8 EF-S zoom on some shots.
Mostly I shoot with the Olypus 25 1.8
@@RotarySMP Neat. Thanks. Bad luck on damaging the EPL5! I have GX9 and GH5 myself, and I do like the two Olympus 1.8s that I have so far (45 and 75). Chromatic aberation is there in both, but the images are so sharp when it's not an issue with the particular shot. And the footage looks great, menus easy, good choice ;-)
@@fredio54I got the G81 largely for usablity. Location of card slot, focus peaking and Mic input are the three things that really made a difference for me. When you are constantly trying to film each step of what you do, these kinds of things become far more important than you first think. 1080P is such low resolution, that even the EF50 1.4 speed boosted to f1 is usable, be it pretty soft and washed out.
Interesting use of safety-wire, have to remember that..
I had a real challenge to get that even close to tight.
Great job! Very interesting and you did a great job explaining
Have you thought about using some constant force springs instead of a counter weight?
Thanks. Only fleetingly. I knew I had about 8kg of lead, and when the metal supplier had that 80x80mm steel drop, it was clear I'd do a counterweight.
I think it would be difficult to find a constant force spring to collapse to near zero and extend to 170cm.
Is it too obvious to believe you'll get that cable tighter on the eyelet if you slide that clamp thing closer? Another idea is to tightly wrap lockwire around between the eyelet and the clamp and tuck the ends in. I love the project, and the vid series is excellent.
Thanks for the feedback. Easier said than done. Remember, this was the second time I did that, as I already did the other end to the counterweight. There is no "sliding" of the clamp on the cable. No chance.
This Old Tony brought me here =)
Welcome, I hope you like what you find and stay.
i.imgur.com/xLUqWo7.jpg
This was my solution to the tool release button. The green button on the head lights up when it is in a toolchange cycle and not interlocked. There's already a hole with plastic cap in the head, just have to knock it out and run wires back alongside the hydraulic line.
i know the next project "making my basement bigger so my camera stand fits " LOL
Yeah, I have been tempted to expand that door way :)
@@RotarySMP i have the same problem however im not ina basement but a garden shed and i live in a wooden chalet which is 6 by 12 meter
@@sebby_cnc There is never enough space for hobbies is there.
@@RotarySMP well if i would find an old farm for cheap in holland id go for it but nothing is cheap nowadays
@@sebby_cnc I was in an inner city apartment for years, with just the Mini lathe on the balcony as a work shop. The basement is luxury in comparison.
I'd put a timeout on that, might not be great on the washers
I dont understand. Could wou please elaborate?
Why not make the arm telescoping by cutting it in half. Mounting it slot to slot and drilling a hole for a t-nut and a wing-screw. Use threaded standoffs on to t-bolts on the sliding part to keep it from drooping.
I am finding that length really useful. Rather then changing it and needing to muck around adding an extension for specific jobss, this is fast and easy to use. You quickly forget how much nicer it is to use than a tripod, until you pull out the tripod for some B roll.
@@RotarySMP I was thinking more along the lines of space it takes up rather than making the arm longer. By making some sort of telescopic part to the arm the overall foot print can be reduced. The shorter the arms are when taking a shot the less wobble it will have and that extra 800mm of stick out in the back won't get caught on a machine or human navigating around it. That might not be one of your design goals though. If your happy; it works.
@@mnoxman Yeah, you are right that the stick out the back is sometimes in the way, but the big picture is that it is great to have really fast adjustment.
Its coming along nicely. Are you gonna cnc it at the end? Haha
:) LinuxCNC/ Mesa control for perfect video... nah! I would be happy if I just consistantly remembered to turn the mic on.
@@RotarySMP that would be easy to fix by centralizing all power next to the legs, and making on singular power switch.
I would probably also move the monitor to the extrusion, so that the camera is lighter on the video head.
@@klaernie I went to centralised power with NP-F battery and a Blind spot power jumkie, but the step down to 5V in the power jumkie leave a horrible PWM whine in the audio if I forget to unplug it. I had hoped to just leave the receive powered.
@@RotarySMP yeah, that a show stopper. Maybe there is a way to use a linear regulator, would waste a bit more than a switching regulator, but for audio worth it. What voltage needs to be stepped down to 5V?
@@klaernie Camera batteries are 7.2v nominal.
You can make a vastly inferior equivalent by using thread adapters and a microphone stand. Wobbles like hell though.
My floor is so uneven that this wobbles around a bit too.
I have one of those microphone [spring] arms, it can barely hold 300g and is quite constrained in movement, though wobbly. I wanted to hang a 2kg beamer and it couldn't do it.
@@ligius3 I use a free standing one, the spring one that came with my mic drove me nuts.
Using a magic arm is also great for supporting a light or GoPro. The magic arm can clamp around the mic pole easily.
Am I allowed to ask where you are from?
I‘m absolutely unsure. 😅
A kiwi in Austria.
@@RotarySMP So maybe sprichst du deutsch? 😁
I was wondering about your tools because they are often more common in europe. But your accent reminded me of another RUclipsr from new Zealand. 😅
@@Nanogenium Ja schon. Ich bin schon länger in Österreich. Welcome.
@@RotarySMP
Ich bin Deutscher, wusste aber natürlich nicht, wie viel du verstehst, deshalb habe ich halbwegs versucht auf Englisch zu kommunizieren, wobei das nicht meine größte Stärke ist. 😅
If it is possible Preset your tools in your tool library in the controller, I use an Edge Technology Touch Off Gauge but there are many types of this design with a given height of the Gauge
I dont have enough tool holders to have everything set as a tool library. I tend to have to set a set for each job. I do all the tool setting first, but just missed that one tool reference in the tool path file.
@@RotarySMP I Understand that same here plus my tool changer can only hold 12 tools so I have to do a new set up every job if it is 1 off's or multiple part jobs . I do like the Tool Height Setter a lot
@@benlivengoodjr8314 I have one of those chinese tool heightsetters. Did a bit of a trial with it, but havet used it lately. It would be a good ide to connect it up more permanently (so far it was only a bodged up job) and combine it into my work flow.
@@RotarySMP Nice I have an Older Haas mill and really want the Probe system/Tool setter more modern but the Hiamer and dial tool setter gets me within .001 which for what I do is good enough
@@benlivengoodjr8314 I started trying to make a 3D probe, but my design was pretty poor. No Renishaw that.
Tool release from a distance - dangerous. It should beep or toggle on for 1s first wait then release - hearing the release starting 1s without release might trigger brain to go catch tool..🤓
That is a good point. I will look at how to build that into the HAL.
I checked out that tony guy you keep going on about, he's ok
This old Tony is the most entertaining of the You Tube hobby machinist I know of.
Nice overkill build! looks like your getting serious with that video thing so its maybe time to invest in non flickering Lights?
I really need to redo all the electrics in that garage. Lighting, power sockets, Move the three phase onto a diffent feed etc. Bummer that the hardware stores are closed due lockdown.
I guess new lighting will be LED.
@@RotarySMP Not all LEDs lamps are flicker free sadly. i think lamps make a satisfying DIY Project. but i can also imagine you already have more projects than time.
@@lambda7652 You are right there. Still changing from 1/60th to 1/50th sec shutter speed seems to have fixed that issue.
@@RotarySMP I'm just very autistic with my lights and i don't think there should be any fickler at all.
@@lambda7652 There should be none in the last haf of this video.
En que se basa para decir que eso cuesta $10000?, Por que si es asi le cobraron demasido....
Isso é o que custa um estande Foba canera.
www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?q=foba%20camera%20stand&sts=ma
This Old Tony send me here to subscribe :)
Welcome. I hope you like what I am doing.
@@RotarySMP yes i do, i am regular on this channel since. good job
@@eskohc984 Thanks for sticking around.
Duct tape, perfect!
That was my favourite bit :)
You need a Instagram account bud, you'll get more followers, also have you never thought of doing a Linux cnc" how to use" video? For newbie
Thanks, I never really considered a LinuxCNC how to, as there are plenty of them. Instagram and facebook I have been avoiding.
is better to up the shutter speed
?? You mean instead of 1/60 --> 1/50, go to 1/100? I am already fighting low light in the basement. Wont be shortening the exposure more.
@@RotarySMP yes 1/100 i better but yes you are right that will low the light, but not that much, and if you have problem whit the light in the current set up, maybe you can add a little ISO if you aperture is all open
@@MakarovFox I think it loks fine at 1/50th, so I think I'll stick with that.
@@RotarySMP whit low speed you have more blur in the video, more when you record high speed machines or fast movements
@@MakarovFox Lets call that blurr "cinematic" :)
Pulleys not ballscrews? 😉
This would have been the perfect application for a linear actuator, you like a Maglev train.... or maybe not.
@10:15 focus you fack!
Yeah, with my crappy lighting, I use wide open lens a lot, but then dont always nail the focus. Sorry about that.
@@RotarySMP np. :) Camera stand looks great!
@@waldemarii Thanks.
Just yell at it like AvE
looks very flimsy tho