I keep the jetting simple. At/Near sea level, I just pull the snorkel, install an extended idle-mix screw, and install an adjustable overseas DR650 or a KTM640 needle. The adjustability is the key, if you like the stock needle taper. I can remove the airbox door and/or tune the idle-mix screw at altitude, if needed. I DON'T cut the airbox. Move the crankcase vent away from the airbox opening to eliminate surging. The stock main jet and pilot jet work fine at sea level with a de-snorkeled, uncut airbox and a stock exhaust. The stock, unadjustable, USA needle is a bit lean, especially after de-snorkeling. It CAN be shimmed too, rather than replaced by an adjustable needle, if richening is needed. With stock exhaust, these simple changes in snorkel, needle, and idle-mix seem to run great. My fording depth didn't change much. MPG is similar. Wheelies are easy. A bigger main jet may be needed at sea level if you use aftermarket exhaust and/or a big-valve head. Some guys at high altitudes actually also use smaller main jets and pilot jets than stock, often with a lowered (leaner) needle setting. With snorkelectomies and free-flowing exhausts, they report sometimes topping 60MPG with the smaller jets and lowered needles.
Don't change the springs out, just drop in a set of plex valves for your forks. Best fork mod for the DR650 ever! I have them in my DR650 and they're fantastic! Look them up.
Well going by your reactions I would say you have reached that sweet spot. I think I'll do exactly what you did when I'm ready. Thanks for a great vid.
@Dee Pee True, but when we’re talking about a bike like the DR650, which is jetted very lean from the factory, sometimes mods that help it breathe better won’t have as big of a detrimental effect as it seems they would.
Easy way to remember on what jet to start with and then try to get to the exact one on the main jet. The scale for them are a little hard to follow. A 155 is sea level. Most fuel for the most air. A 100 is on top of the highest mountain. Way less air less fuel. Unless your up in the mountains, most will be a 125 or less. Mountain being 5,000ft too 6,000ft and up. Again, less air less fuel. More air more fuel. Then changing the air box or air filter to give more air then means bigger jet or higher number on jet. One quick way to know if you are wright on or off is after warm up and just before move the throttle just a little. If it wants to bog out then you have your jet to open or need to drop to an smaller jet. To much fuel is going into the carburetor. Example. A 125 jet and I give it a little throttle and the engine bogs. Then I need to go to an 115. Not an 130. 130 will put more fuel into it. Higher number more fuel because of more air at altitude. A slight movement of the throttle will for most tell you if your on the right track. Instant response of power, your on the right jet. Take care.
So, if I were to go from sea level with the current configuration of 155 jet to 5000ft altitude, what adjustment should I make on my carburetor? (how to make fuel and air leaner?)
@@elee325 you need more air and less fuel. The one with the float drop an size. The one in the center add one size bigger. Then at 5000 feet. If not stating running. Do it again. I time should be okay unless you go up higher in altitude.
Actually, after full warmup, a slight 1/8 to 3/4 blip of the throttle is coming onto the needle from the pilot jet. The main jet is used more from 3/4 throttle to WOT. If you have no vacuum leaks or fuelflow issues, and it bogs from throttling 1/8 to 3/4 throttle, your needle adjustment is likely off for your altitude, intake airflow, and/or exhaust airflow. Partially cover your airbox opening and blip throttle again. If it pulls smoother, your needle is adjusted too lean. If it worsens with the airbox opening partially covered, your needle adjustment is too rich. To check the main jet, accelerate WOT from lower-mid revs in 3rd gear. As it just starts to really pull, back off the throttle a hair. If it then pulls harder, your main jet is not quite right. Partially tape off the airbox opening and try again. If it pulls better at WOT, your main jet can go down a size or so. I once had a weird issue from a fuel tank vent that partially plugged. The engine was starving for fuelflow as I throttled up. IIRC, this is not exactly a rare issue with the locking plastic fuelcaps.
@@RKmndo when I put on my racing carburetor. I didn't have any problems. Except I needed more HP. No matter what I did to set the idle down. The engine was an runaway. Meaning my main jet was to big. I needed to loose fuel flow. After that my fuel bowl had to not enough fuel. Using the throttle it would die. Yet after research. Is where I found out the settings I said. Not having fuel tank problems or anything. Just putting on an new carburetor and adjusting it for altitude. Highest altitude. Main jet or center jet less. Outer jet more. Sea level. Center jet more and outer jet less. High altitude less fuel and more air. Sea level more fuel and less air. Just an easy way for me to remember. When my engine was new with the new carb and on that runaway. I almost lost my new engine. Your way also. Thanks.
Thank you for explaining carburettors like that. I now understand what is needed. I am in the market for a dually in the 650 range and I have always liked the DR for its neatness and compact size. I think that moves the DR up the list somewhat.
kyle, I have a bone stock Suzuki Dr 650. No Mods. Great Bike. But I Did do i wheelie in first gear with half throttle for about 60 ft. with no problem. glad the mods worked for you.
amazing video, thank you. you gave me the confidence and instructions on how to work on my DR. I did every mod possible, but I was scared to work on my carb. Now im not scared, but excited!
Hey Kyle, love the mod, seems like you have way more power. Just have two questions. Can this mod be done with the stock exhaust system, and how does the mod effect gas mileage. Thanks
Not sure if you can get your hands on CCM spares where you are but the CCM 644 uses the dr650 motor BUT it has twin carbs so if you could get your hands on a CCM 644 the R30-(super moto version)- or the 644DS-(dual sport version) on my R30 it was up jetted and the air box lid was just removed and made a big difference.
I cut the top of my airbox off and man did I end regretting that. I tinkered with that dang carb for so long. I ended up going with a 145 main jet, 3d printing a new top that was identical to the stock snorkel hole and running it like that. Small improvement in power and bike runs like a top. I will say that I put the 155 main jet in the bike and WOT and jeezus the bike almost pulled my arms lol but it sputtered all the way up to high rpms and then just took off like a two stroke. I never could get it running smoothly messing the needle and air/fuel ratio.
There is a fine line to walk, but mine ran like a dream! Set-up is KEY. My Dad has one that had the work done before we purchased it. Their airbox work was too much for what the carb could mix fuel with. It was no good.
Have you ever tried taking the header pipe off, then welding the header flange on the outside, then grinding all the weld out of the inside of the flange? The last DR I did that on, the amount of weld on the inside was staggering. It literally had 1/3 of the pipe blocked off. The welds are usually sloppy and over 1/4” high. So as you can imagine 1/4” tall weld all the way around a 1 1/2” pipe is a HUGE restriction.
I removed the header and had a look. My inside weld was very clean, and moderate in bulk. I ground away probably 50% of the weld on the inside. Not enough to compromise the pipe, but enough to really open up the air flow. I'm happy with it.
Easy to understand description of carb adjustments. Thanks! I just picked up a 2001 DR and the previous owner appears to have done a lot of mods including the airbox and I need to see if he worked on the carb. Your video will be helpful. Kind regards from the other end of the country, Vancouver Island.🇨🇦
I did your carb mod a few years ago. Great improvement. But wait until you get a tm40 pumper. Ps I have a extra high a boosa 1300 muffler. I bought two back when I changed out the stock. Had to buy the pair.
the air box does not affect the fuel mixture...period ! it only does if the manufacturers got the hole size wrong, which for some reason is fairly common ! putting 2 large holes in the top of the air box should be more than adequate !.... do not re cover them for any reason. fine tuning the fuel air screw is the major improvement ! I recommend a portable RPM gauge that runs off the ignition, they are far more sensitive to air screw adjustments than your ears are. adjusting the RPM to peek RPM by the air screw, then reducing the idle screw and re adjusting the air screw again is my preferred method. also do a plug color check stock the plug color will be very light tan to almost white.... that is BAD for power and heat ! the closer you can get the plug color to chocolate brown the better off you are Plug color is a product of the main Jet... if your plug now runs black it is too large reduce the size by .5 , then re adjust the air screw for best mixture , use a new spark plug so you can quickly see the color it is running at then do a 15 min run the spark plug color tells you so many things ! your looking at the porcelain below the sparking tip of the electrode not the metal wall outside. a brown to dark brown color is best, this was a Major Killer of 2 strokes back in the day guys would run them too lean and melt pistons, todays 4 strokes benefit a great deal however by having the mixture at just the right amount for a bigger boom ........ always carry 3 new spark plugs with you.... it's a single cylinder, it must have good spark to run... it is common to have a spark plug die on you 1 in 4 are bad from the factory..... back in the 1970's I had as many as 6 out of 10 new spark plugs be bad right out of the box, their better now , but not by that much ! .... don't kill yourself !
I'd have liked a baseline for fuel consumption, zero to 100KPH, timed 500M and then same with the upgrades. The upgrades obviously (from the look on your face and your voice) made a huge difference. Excellent video.
Hey, kyle just came upon your channel…. Fellow Newfie. I’m very interested in the mods you did to your 650. I just bought one and interested in doing same. Where did you order from and may have couple questions later. Jim
Hey man just did this mod on my DR ( looks like the same year) and have the exact same exhaust. Bike runs good but I’ve noticed a lot of popping/ backfiring while decelerating. Would you know how to fix that?
Great series on the DR! I have had my eye on a DR for a bit now and found your channel searching youtube for DR project bikes. Turns out we are neighbors, i live in central . I wand to turn a DR into an Adventure bike and hope you continue to mod your bike in that manner. I think the DR is made/geared for commuters and people who want to build an inexpensive adventure bike. Keep at it buddy, i'm waiting for you to replace the tank, faring, bars, pegs and pannier. great work!
Thanks Kyle. Very useful. I have gone through some of the other videos but yours seems to be the best. Some others have also drilled a third hole in the slide. The instructions that I received with the procycle kit dont mention drilling of this hole and I havent seen you doing it in your video as well. Just wanted to know if drilled that hole as well or went without it?
I did not do that. I think that was popular for a time. I have used bikes with it done. I didn't like how it affected the bikes throttle performance. I'd recommend not doing it. If jetted properly, and enough air is getting in and out, it doesn't need it!
Watched the whole video as I’m picking up my first DR next weekend. Very informative thank you. The bike I’m picking up has been sitting for a few years so we’re going to rebuild the carb since it was stored dry. I also ordered that same pro cycle jet kit (although still impatiently waiting for it to arrive). I’ve read in a few places that if you cut that carb spring down to 100mm it’ll also improve the overall performance of all the mods you’ve done. I’m going to try that as well. Bike already has the GSXR pipe I just need to modify the air box as well. I think I’ll go youre route as I don’t want a big gaping hole in it
Hey mate thanks for the video. I am planning to do this on my new dr650 at some stage and wondering how did it go for you? Also wondering I have the same dominator R exhaust installed on the bike and I find it quite load. I have already installed a dbkiller but still the damn thing still screams. How do you find yours? Thanks
What’s the difference in jetting vs going the TM40 pumper carb route? New to all of this, hooked on the DR650 already and scheming when to get one and mods to do.
Hi, Im Marlon from NY, I really love your video. I have a question. I have a Dr. 650 for two years and I really enjoy the ride but it has something that bothers me. It's a lot of heat that comes from the engine, and it's really uncomfortable to drive in the summer. So, I don't know if this is normal or I need to check something. What do you think? Thanks for your help
Hi Kyle great video mate. I have practically the same setup as you. Procycle jet kit, Barret pipe and mid, air box fully open and tried it partially closed. Main difference is I have 14/42 sprockets. Does that make a big difference? Can you tell me how many turns your mixture screw is out? I know you started with 2 like you’re supposed to but after the tuning what did you settle on. I still can’t get the front wheel up in first gear? Not sure if it’s just the gearing or the tuning? Thanks Kyle
I just ordered the procycle jet kit and twin air filter, can u give me some tips/tricks for installing. should I take the carb completely out at first or leave it in. is yours still running good? Did u drill a hole in the slide?
hey man, love your work 2 quick questions, Do you know roughly how much this will effect the fuel consumption of the bike? and also, I've heard of DR650s going over 100k on the clock, do any of these mods lower the longevity of the bikes life? Im picking up a 2021 DR650 as my first bike this weekend, probably wont do a great deal to it at first but one of the reasons I went with it is for its reputation as an easy bike to learn to work on.
Don't mess with it man..... The bike wasn't designed to handle it. I just put a leo vince x3 exhaust and an aftermarket air filter on mine. Power is so much better every way. So yeah The jets need to be stock it will give the bike a long life!:)
This mod slightly increased my fuel consumption, nothing major but for some reason suddenly my rear tyre is wearing out very fast......., The extra response and power just makes you ride it harder. For the stock guys i would recommend taking out the needle putting it in a drill and tapering the stock needle on some sanding paper just a little, no major power gains but it smoothes out the power delivery a bit, think the stock needle is so crappy due to emissions BS they had to meet and they knew anyone could quickly fix it with a drill and sanding paper. I tapered mine from about halfway to a almost pointed tip, but i guess less is always better when in doubt. I also just drilled the stock jet out, put a 1mm drill bit in and wore it out as even as i could till i felt i had enough copper dust/shavings to justify a improvement, and i did it twice before i had the desired effect, i would guess I'm at around a 150 jet size as a 1.5mm drill bit barely doesn't fit, i actually think i can just drill through with the 1.5mm bit, but I'm happy with the power delivery as is so I'm not going to fix something that isn't broken. Oh i also drilled a 2nd hole in the slide but smaller than recommended by procycle. I basically did everything the complete procycle kit does but i did it only half way, and half the results are fantastic!!! Especially given that it was for free,.... I got a 2nd hand dr with a very loud pipe but nothing done to the carb, there was a lot of popping on deceleration and it was annoying and that was the reason i fiddled with the carb i did not need more power but i do appreciate the extra oomph, it still pops now and then but it is a lot better. My brother had a completely stock dr and before i fiddled with the carb on mine my dr had alot more power although it rode alot rougher and the popping was horrendous. His stock dr was extremely boring to ride in my "hillbilly wannabe" opinion
hi kyle, im from israel and i just by my dr 650se. can you pleas send link where i can buy this kit in adicant price. thanks alot men !!!! graet imfo.......
great video man , when i get chance ill set mine up currently the previous owner drilled some holes (small) and rejetted with a supposedly 175 !! she seems to run ok (only been on 1 short ride ) however she backfires really really bad
Yea it's likely getting WAY too much fuel. If you only have a few small holes, I'd downsize to maybe a 150 main jet. A 175 is just silly. I believe a 155 is about the richest you'd want to run a DR650, to have smooth and reliable performance.
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Can you do some updates on your DR650 ?
I keep the jetting simple. At/Near sea level, I just pull the snorkel, install an extended idle-mix screw, and install an adjustable overseas DR650 or a KTM640 needle. The adjustability is the key, if you like the stock needle taper. I can remove the airbox door and/or tune the idle-mix screw at altitude, if needed. I DON'T cut the airbox. Move the crankcase vent away from the airbox opening to eliminate surging. The stock main jet and pilot jet work fine at sea level with a de-snorkeled, uncut airbox and a stock exhaust. The stock, unadjustable, USA needle is a bit lean, especially after de-snorkeling. It CAN be shimmed too, rather than replaced by an adjustable needle, if richening is needed.
With stock exhaust, these simple changes in snorkel, needle, and idle-mix seem to run great. My fording depth didn't change much. MPG is similar. Wheelies are easy.
A bigger main jet may be needed at sea level if you use aftermarket exhaust and/or a big-valve head.
Some guys at high altitudes actually also use smaller main jets and pilot jets than stock, often with a lowered (leaner) needle setting. With snorkelectomies and free-flowing exhausts, they report sometimes topping 60MPG with the smaller jets and lowered needles.
Excellent video. I'm duplicating a question asking which clip position you used. I didn't see an answer
Those aren’t Phillips they’re JIS. Japanese Industrial Standard. Get a set of JIS screwdrivers and you’ll never have problems with em again.
Learned that the hard way on my drz400 bought JIS screwdrivers. 👍
You only need a Stanley knife to cut holes in the top of your air box. Using hole saws creates a lot of shavings that get every where.
I’m happy your channel covers so many of my own interests! It’s a pleasure following!
Thanks so much Conner!
@@kyle_noseworthy *Connor ;)
Don't change the springs out, just drop in a set of plex valves for your forks. Best fork mod for the DR650 ever! I have them in my DR650 and they're fantastic! Look them up.
Yep I have the full set up from FFRC. Absolutely love it
@@ashleywevv3583 I haven't done the rear yet but I'm definitely going to! 👍
Good tip. Thank you
Yup plex valves are awesome
Just ordered
Well going by your reactions I would say you have reached that sweet spot. I think I'll do exactly what you did when I'm ready. Thanks for a great vid.
Please let us know how these mods affect your fuel consumption vs. stock. Thanks.
+1
@Dee Pee True, but when we’re talking about a bike like the DR650, which is jetted very lean from the factory, sometimes mods that help it breathe better won’t have as big of a detrimental effect as it seems they would.
@@ItsEnuff That’s why they get paid the big bucks. 🤣
Nice channel, no fluff and all substance. True enthusiast
Easy way to remember on what jet to start with and then try to get to the exact one on the main jet. The scale for them are a little hard to follow. A 155 is sea level. Most fuel for the most air. A 100 is on top of the highest mountain. Way less air less fuel. Unless your up in the mountains, most will be a 125 or less. Mountain being 5,000ft too 6,000ft and up. Again, less air less fuel. More air more fuel. Then changing the air box or air filter to give more air then means bigger jet or higher number on jet. One quick way to know if you are wright on or off is after warm up and just before move the throttle just a little. If it wants to bog out then you have your jet to open or need to drop to an smaller jet. To much fuel is going into the carburetor. Example. A 125 jet and I give it a little throttle and the engine bogs. Then I need to go to an 115. Not an 130. 130 will put more fuel into it. Higher number more fuel because of more air at altitude. A slight movement of the throttle will for most tell you if your on the right track. Instant response of power, your on the right jet. Take care.
So, if I were to go from sea level with the current configuration of 155 jet to 5000ft altitude, what adjustment should I make on my carburetor? (how to make fuel and air leaner?)
@@elee325 you need more air and less fuel. The one with the float drop an size. The one in the center add one size bigger. Then at 5000 feet. If not stating running. Do it again. I time should be okay unless you go up higher in altitude.
Actually, after full warmup, a slight 1/8 to 3/4 blip of the throttle is coming onto the needle from the pilot jet. The main jet is used more from 3/4 throttle to WOT.
If you have no vacuum leaks or fuelflow issues, and it bogs from throttling 1/8 to 3/4 throttle, your needle adjustment is likely off for your altitude, intake airflow, and/or exhaust airflow. Partially cover your airbox opening and blip throttle again. If it pulls smoother, your needle is adjusted too lean. If it worsens with the airbox opening partially covered, your needle adjustment is too rich.
To check the main jet, accelerate WOT from lower-mid revs in 3rd gear. As it just starts to really pull, back off the throttle a hair. If it then pulls harder, your main jet is not quite right. Partially tape off the airbox opening and try again. If it pulls better at WOT, your main jet can go down a size or so.
I once had a weird issue from a fuel tank vent that partially plugged. The engine was starving for fuelflow as I throttled up. IIRC, this is not exactly a rare issue with the locking plastic fuelcaps.
@@RKmndo when I put on my racing carburetor. I didn't have any problems. Except I needed more HP. No matter what I did to set the idle down. The engine was an runaway. Meaning my main jet was to big. I needed to loose fuel flow. After that my fuel bowl had to not enough fuel. Using the throttle it would die. Yet after research. Is where I found out the settings I said. Not having fuel tank problems or anything. Just putting on an new carburetor and adjusting it for altitude. Highest altitude. Main jet or center jet less. Outer jet more. Sea level. Center jet more and outer jet less. High altitude less fuel and more air. Sea level more fuel and less air. Just an easy way for me to remember. When my engine was new with the new carb and on that runaway. I almost lost my new engine. Your way also. Thanks.
Thank you for explaining carburettors like that. I now understand what is needed. I am in the market for a dually in the 650 range and I have always liked the DR for its neatness and compact size. I think that moves the DR up the list somewhat.
compact size? LOL I just got one and feel like im riding a horse!
kyle, I have a bone stock Suzuki Dr 650. No Mods. Great Bike. But I Did do i wheelie in first gear with half throttle for about 60 ft. with no problem. glad the mods worked for you.
Nice video Kyle, glad the tuning worked out the way you wanted it.
I used to have a '99 DR350. I loved that bike.
Those are kewl!
amazing video, thank you. you gave me the confidence and instructions on how to work on my DR. I did every mod possible, but I was scared to work on my carb. Now im not scared, but excited!
I like your video, thank you for sharing.
What kind of muffler are you running in this video?
My MZ660 was OK. I put a M4 exhaust on it and a stage 3 carb kit on it and it fn rips.
1st gear can make you black out.
Great video bud.
Hey Kyle, love the mod, seems like you have way more power. Just have two questions. Can this mod be done with the stock exhaust system, and how does the mod effect gas mileage. Thanks
fun project.. thi 650 was going to be my first bike. same dealer had an ftr1200 and it won as I ride on pavement mostly and the occasional Bush road
Not sure if you can get your hands on CCM spares where you are but the CCM 644 uses the dr650 motor BUT it has twin carbs so if you could get your hands on a CCM 644 the R30-(super moto version)- or the 644DS-(dual sport version) on my R30 it was up jetted and the air box lid was just removed and made a big difference.
Hey Kyle great video and I know its 3 years old but I didnt catch what clip position you choose on the needle
I cut the top of my airbox off and man did I end regretting that. I tinkered with that dang carb for so long. I ended up going with a 145 main jet, 3d printing a new top that was identical to the stock snorkel hole and running it like that. Small improvement in power and bike runs like a top. I will say that I put the 155 main jet in the bike and WOT and jeezus the bike almost pulled my arms lol but it sputtered all the way up to high rpms and then just took off like a two stroke. I never could get it running smoothly messing the needle and air/fuel ratio.
There is a fine line to walk, but mine ran like a dream! Set-up is KEY. My Dad has one that had the work done before we purchased it. Their airbox work was too much for what the carb could mix fuel with. It was no good.
Have you ever tried taking the header pipe off, then welding the header flange on the outside, then grinding all the weld out of the inside of the flange? The last DR I did that on, the amount of weld on the inside was staggering. It literally had 1/3 of the pipe blocked off. The welds are usually sloppy and over 1/4” high. So as you can imagine 1/4” tall weld all the way around a 1 1/2” pipe is a HUGE restriction.
I removed the header and had a look. My inside weld was very clean, and moderate in bulk. I ground away probably 50% of the weld on the inside. Not enough to compromise the pipe, but enough to really open up the air flow. I'm happy with it.
Easy to understand description of carb adjustments. Thanks! I just picked up a 2001 DR and the previous owner appears to have done a lot of mods including the airbox and I need to see if he worked on the carb. Your video will be helpful. Kind regards from the other end of the country, Vancouver Island.🇨🇦
Id like know what kind of knife you we're useing..looked pretty nice!??
I would have liked to see you demonstrate the front end rising from throttle bursts on pavement.
Me too,cause I did all the same mods ,even sprung the $440 for the procycle muffler an it's still a slug .
I did your carb mod a few years ago. Great improvement. But wait until you get a tm40 pumper. Ps I have a extra high a boosa 1300 muffler. I bought two back when I changed out the stock. Had to buy the pair.
the air box does not affect the fuel mixture...period ! it only does if the manufacturers got the hole size wrong, which for some reason is fairly common ! putting 2 large holes in the top of the air box should be more than adequate !.... do not re cover them
for any reason. fine tuning the fuel air screw is the major improvement ! I recommend a portable RPM gauge that runs off the ignition, they are far more sensitive to air screw adjustments than your ears are. adjusting the RPM to peek RPM by the air screw, then reducing the idle screw and re adjusting the air screw again is my preferred method. also do a plug color check
stock the plug color will be very light tan to almost white.... that is BAD for power and heat ! the closer you can get the
plug color to chocolate brown the better off you are
Plug color is a product of the main Jet... if your plug now runs black it is too large reduce the size by .5 , then re adjust the air screw for best mixture , use a new spark plug so you can quickly see the color it is running at then do a 15 min run the spark plug color tells you so many things ! your looking at the porcelain below the sparking tip of the electrode not the metal wall outside. a brown to dark brown color is best, this was a Major Killer of 2 strokes back in the day guys would run them too lean
and melt pistons, todays 4 strokes benefit a great deal however by having the mixture at just the right amount for a bigger boom
........ always carry 3 new spark plugs with you.... it's a single cylinder, it must have good spark to run... it is common to have a spark plug die on you 1 in 4 are bad from the factory..... back in the 1970's I had as many as 6 out of 10 new spark plugs be bad right out of the box, their better now , but not by that much ! .... don't kill yourself !
hey, great video, can you tell me what slot you used on the tapered needle?
Good job Kyle! I’m getting ready to buy a DR. I most definitely learned a lot from this series. Looking forward to more videos.
I'd have liked a baseline for fuel consumption, zero to 100KPH, timed 500M and then same with the upgrades.
The upgrades obviously (from the look on your face and your voice) made a huge difference.
Excellent video.
Canadian or Irish who knows, (im irish) thank you for the video ! looking at getting a DR650 soon i hope
Hey, kyle just came upon your channel…. Fellow Newfie. I’m very interested in the mods you did to your 650. I just bought one and interested in doing same. Where did you order from and may have couple questions later. Jim
Hey Kyle. Thanks for posting. Info for you. The old screws weren’t Philips, they were JIS. Good to buy a JIS driver before they stop making them.
Kyle... You could have referenced which "Procycle kit" you are using here
Thanks man! Thinking bout doing this to mine.
What size wheels/tires are you running on it? Looks great!
Stock!
Hey man just did this mod on my DR ( looks like the same year) and have the exact same exhaust. Bike runs good but I’ve noticed a lot of popping/ backfiring while decelerating. Would you know how to fix that?
G I have Dr 650 and my engine knocked please how can you help me I am from Nigeria
What kind of furl consomtiun did you get i liters per 10 km
i heard the airbox modification is the worst thing you could do with the factory carburetor , on the dyno and out in the wild
Put a DRZ 400 front end on it. I did mine and I love it>
Great series on the DR! I have had my eye on a DR for a bit now and found your channel searching youtube for DR project bikes. Turns out we are neighbors, i live in central . I wand to turn a DR into an Adventure bike and hope you continue to mod your bike in that manner. I think the DR is made/geared for commuters and people who want to build an inexpensive adventure bike. Keep at it buddy, i'm waiting for you to replace the tank, faring, bars, pegs and pannier.
great work!
Thanks Kyle. Very useful. I have gone through some of the other videos but yours seems to be the best. Some others have also drilled a third hole in the slide. The instructions that I received with the procycle kit dont mention drilling of this hole and I havent seen you doing it in your video as well. Just wanted to know if drilled that hole as well or went without it?
I did not do that. I think that was popular for a time. I have used bikes with it done. I didn't like how it affected the bikes throttle performance. I'd recommend not doing it. If jetted properly, and enough air is getting in and out, it doesn't need it!
@@kyle_noseworthy Thanks. Very useful.
Watched the whole video as I’m picking up my first DR next weekend. Very informative thank you. The bike I’m picking up has been sitting for a few years so we’re going to rebuild the carb since it was stored dry. I also ordered that same pro cycle jet kit (although still impatiently waiting for it to arrive). I’ve read in a few places that if you cut that carb spring down to 100mm it’ll also improve the overall performance of all the mods you’ve done. I’m going to try that as well. Bike already has the GSXR pipe I just need to modify the air box as well. I think I’ll go youre route as I don’t want a big gaping hole in it
A few more details would be nice. I wanted to hear more of how much difference the pipe made...
Hey bro fantastic video, now I wanna do this! How has it changed on the freeway? Are the RPM's lower at higher speeds now?
Very informative and easy to understand what you are doing. Thanks.
If you increase both the air and fuel making it's way into the cylinder, how does that affect cooling? Will it overheat?
Na itll be fine
If you are holding the needle with the pointy end down, then is it 4th from top?
Hey mate thanks for the video. I am planning to do this on my new dr650 at some stage and wondering how did it go for you? Also wondering I have the same dominator R exhaust installed on the bike and I find it quite load. I have already installed a dbkiller but still the damn thing still screams. How do you find yours? Thanks
What’s the difference in jetting vs going the TM40 pumper carb route? New to all of this, hooked on the DR650 already and scheming when to get one and mods to do.
How much was the jet kit
how the fuel economy afterwards?
I have an AFR gauge. I'm not sure it's accurate but I have one,
hello greetings from houston I have a question. if the timing chain of a dr650 breaks. the valves bend?
Hi, Im Marlon from NY, I really love your video. I have a question. I have a Dr. 650 for two years and I really enjoy the ride but it has something that bothers me. It's a lot of heat that comes from the engine, and it's really uncomfortable to drive in the summer. So, I don't know if this is normal or I need to check something. What do you think? Thanks for your help
donde compraste el Kit para upgrade de carburador??
www.procycle.us
Awesome stuff again
Hi Kyle great video mate. I have practically the same setup as you. Procycle jet kit, Barret pipe and mid, air box fully open and tried it partially closed. Main difference is I have 14/42 sprockets. Does that make a big difference? Can you tell me how many turns your mixture screw is out? I know you started with 2 like you’re supposed to but after the tuning what did you settle on. I still can’t get the front wheel up in first gear? Not sure if it’s just the gearing or the tuning? Thanks Kyle
Nice job Kyle, it's really coming together nicely :-)
Thanks Richard!
How...do you know if the problem is air or gas ?
You have dB quilter in exausth?
I just ordered the procycle jet kit and twin air filter, can u give me some tips/tricks for installing. should I take the carb completely out at first or leave it in. is yours still running good? Did u drill a hole in the slide?
Where ya to by? You in cb or nfld
What knife are you using in the vid? I need me one
What tires did you recommend, I heard df606 is that right?
Well done! lots of info.
Great information, exactly what I wanted to know. Thanks for sharing.
In the 4rth position
Good video, creative thinking, good understanding of what is happening. But that sweater...😳
hey man, love your work
2 quick questions,
Do you know roughly how much this will effect the fuel consumption of the bike?
and also, I've heard of DR650s going over 100k on the clock, do any of these mods lower the longevity of the bikes life?
Im picking up a 2021 DR650 as my first bike this weekend, probably wont do a great deal to it at first but one of the reasons I went with it is for its reputation as an easy bike to learn to work on.
Don't mess with it man..... The bike wasn't designed to handle it. I just put a leo vince x3 exhaust and an aftermarket air filter on mine. Power is so much better every way. So yeah The jets need to be stock it will give the bike a long life!:)
Bro. I wish u was close to help me out with mine!!
Very informative!
Thank's for this man 👍
This mod slightly increased my fuel consumption, nothing major but for some reason suddenly my rear tyre is wearing out very fast.......,
The extra response and power just makes you ride it harder.
For the stock guys i would recommend taking out the needle putting it in a drill and tapering the stock needle on some sanding paper just a little, no major power gains but it smoothes out the power delivery a bit, think the stock needle is so crappy due to emissions BS they had to meet and they knew anyone could quickly fix it with a drill and sanding paper.
I tapered mine from about halfway to a almost pointed tip, but i guess less is always better when in doubt.
I also just drilled the stock jet out, put a 1mm drill bit in and wore it out as even as i could till i felt i had enough copper dust/shavings to justify a improvement, and i did it twice before i had the desired effect, i would guess I'm at around a 150 jet size as a 1.5mm drill bit barely doesn't fit, i actually think i can just drill through with the 1.5mm bit, but I'm happy with the power delivery as is so I'm not going to fix something that isn't broken.
Oh i also drilled a 2nd hole in the slide but smaller than recommended by procycle.
I basically did everything the complete procycle kit does but i did it only half way, and half the results are fantastic!!! Especially given that it was for free,....
I got a 2nd hand dr with a very loud pipe but nothing done to the carb, there was a lot of popping on deceleration and it was annoying and that was the reason i fiddled with the carb i did not need more power but i do appreciate the extra oomph, it still pops now and then but it is a lot better. My brother had a completely stock dr and before i fiddled with the carb on mine my dr had alot more power although it rode alot rougher and the popping was horrendous.
His stock dr was extremely boring to ride in my "hillbilly wannabe" opinion
Was that the stock carb? Can you provide a link to the Procycle parts for the upgrades?Great video, thanks!
Yes, it's still running the stock carb! I name every part in the video. All the carb work comes from the procycle jet kit.
You won't see monster until you do Procycle big bore kit.
No 790 Kit?
Kyle, it seems like you could have swapped your dad’s air box for yours since he is returning to stock specs,
Gday mate, what sprockets are you running on it, cheers
14-44!
Fuel filter?
poipe and boike. I thought I recognized that accent. NL licence plate!
hi kyle,
im from israel and i just by my dr 650se.
can you pleas send link where i can buy this kit in adicant price.
thanks alot men !!!!
graet imfo.......
Procycle.com
What my mother said about motorcycles 14:39
Great video mate. How’s your fuel consumption now? Cheers 👊
Nice.
any reliability issues from this mod?
Zero. Absolutely flawless. Actually, its much more consistent on start-up now that its getting more fuel!
It acts like a power house now. So, knowing what you know now, Suzuki or Kawasaki?
I still think the Kawasaki is a better set-up from factory, but at this point my Suzuki would destroy the KLR 650!
nice
Best video great job stright to the point
Watch out you might have a moose walk out in front of you. Nice ride.
great video man , when i get chance ill set mine up currently the previous owner drilled some holes (small) and rejetted with a supposedly 175 !!
she seems to run ok (only been on 1 short ride )
however she backfires really really bad
Yea it's likely getting WAY too much fuel. If you only have a few small holes, I'd downsize to maybe a 150 main jet. A 175 is just silly.
I believe a 155 is about the richest you'd want to run a DR650, to have smooth and reliable performance.
Dyno it!
NO. Gret away from me and my DR650..
I'm the on;u monster that my ride needs.
More DR650 Bush Pig knowledge and education here: ruclips.net/p/PLEQwA8Brt84qNpRZ8nknm7xU8Q8R6yTPS
I know it's more work but I would have traded air boxes with your dad
Why not just trade aiboxes with your Dad's bike?
Now you have 2 cut up boxes.
Moose!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Don't forget.
I dare him to face me!
Great video but it would be out of this world is folks doing this actually put their bike on a dyno before and after.
You would probably enjoy this guys DR650 videos.
ruclips.net/p/PL-G1JF8IdUxTs3qBK0INotc3U8nTLi1Ka