Im 38 years old i met my first love wen i was 15 years old her name stucco. 13 years later we are still workong together i subscribed to this chanell cause kirk knows what he is doing an talking about today i have my owen companie thank you kirk
Greetings Badir, man, I sho-nuff like your style. 😉 Bringing peace, love, and brotherhood back to the world of “Plastering.” 🌍 The complete plastering encyclopedia on video, by the plastering messengers of RUclips. Over 850 videos 🎭 👀💃
..thank u kirk! u just made me realize that if u love what u do for a living u'll never have to work a day in ur life! THANK U FOR UR KNOWLEDGE N VERY HELPFUL TIPS N DEMONSTRATIONS! GOD BLESS!
Greetings Alex, now that's a beautiful quote. Bringing peace, love, and brotherhood back to the world of “Plastering.” 🌍 The complete plastering encyclopedia on video, by the plastering messengers of RUclips. Over 850 videos 🎭 👀💃
Good afternoon Ray, the camera man, is my son Jason and fellow plasterer. The complete plastering encyclopedia on video, by the plastering messengers of RUclips. Over 850 videos 🎭 👀💃
Good Morning C C Dude, just letting folks know there's more than one way to skin a cat. teaching plastering do’s, don'ts and reasons why Live long and plaster
I commented on another vid you did I didn’t realize you are in SF Bay Area so am i. There are better sealants but most are multi component. Sika flex 1a has pretty high shore hardness but the fact is these type of cracks only usually move minimally with thermal expansion. And as you say vibration. With over 40 years experience installing sealants , for what you are doing don’t ever change from tried and true Sika. BTW I have always had better luck matching the texture by patting with a float than adding sand. I know you also use this method. Keep up the quality videos. You would think that this would be common knowledge to “stucco guys” but you would be amazed at how many just float a cementacious product in the crack and next year it’s back again. Keep it up
Thanks to your videos Kirk-I was able to do Stucco Repairs. I have a smooth fine finish with hairline cracks. I’m using Omegaflex Fine Finish and it is working great! Tedious as heck but it should be un-noticeable
Hey Kirk, I've been using Sikaflex also for many years. It does a great job, but I also hate it because it is nasty, and won't wash off anything it gets near! But here is an alternate product that will clean up with water. It is called R-Guard by Prosocco. It is expensive, but well worth it for what it can do. Excellent adhesion, and about 30% flexing capacity. I'm a convert!! Give it a try. Thanks so much for your tutorials!
Kirk, you essentially made like stucco bondo.Good stuff. Sika anything is top of the line stuff. I’m a glazier, and rain buster is crap, only thing close to 1a sika is vulkem which literally smells like good gasoline. As far as poly it’s good stuff. I got a job for you in Santa Rosa , if you see this contact me.
i am starting a stucco job in the next week i was surprised when the person ordering the sand ordered a course brow sand when i did a stucco job back in the day i used a light color fine grain .i also used lime back then and when i went to a building supply they never heard of lime lett alone adding to the mix. the job 30 years ago was on the jersey coast and the job next week is in Puerto Rico.is it just a question of how the Latin countries work vs the northern.
Howdy Joe, there are many ways to skin a cat. May all be blessed with peace, love with harmony. Kirk and Jason’s Giordano’s plastering tips-mixed with sound advice
Hi ESCAGEDO WOODWORKING, today, there are many caulkings with the sand in them, I like Mor-flexx which is really easy plus it's water cleanable. Best wishes, kirk Giordano Plastering
Please explain the different types of caulking and their applications. I have a stucco exterior and If I paint over the caulking, do I use an acrylic caulking, or elastomeric caulking, or is there a caulking that' has sand in it. I'm concerned about how the acrylic paint will reveal the caulking.
Hi Kirk. Do u have any videos on fixing cracks that go into exposed brick pointing? I have a layer of bare brick on top of stuccoed wall (tile in between) cracked vertically in several places, Should I scrape out mortar and repoint or should I leave it and use strong caulking in the crack and then point on top of the crack with mortar, assuming that the crack will return in time? Cheers.
Howdy truth dude, I have one that might shed some light on your question, Copy and paste the link below and see if it helps, ruclips.net/video/IkBHz_SQePQ/видео.html best wishes, Merry Christmas from the Giordano family to yours,
Howdy Jose, I believe it was Sika-flex 1 A. May all be blessed with peace, love with harmony. Kirk and Jason’s Giordano’s plastering tips-mixed with sound advice
Hey Kirk, I filled some mortar cracks with some loctite PL polyurethane caulking, but i didn’t know the sand trick at the time. So I tried to feather it a bit with a big paint brush and water. Anyway, it says it’s paintable but now I’m wondering if I should go back with some sandy caulk to touch up before repainting. There are a ton of cracks so it’d be a big job. Oh, and also wondering if you could stucco over this stuff. Thanks, Dan
Hi daniel, yes you can color coat over the entire walls but you will need to pressure was first then apply a bonding agent, "quikrete to the entire wall" not in the mix. This bonding agent will protect the surface so no ghosting or bleeding will show through the new color coat finish. Or if yours skilled you can apply a Mor-Flexx caulking to all the cracks and feather that in, the Mor-Flexx is paintable.💃
@@StuccoPlastering thanks Kirk - been loving the vids, just about to start my mortar + stucco journey here on an old adobe home in the california southwest, so i’m sure i’ll be watching more. would you recommend a ‘stolit’ type product for old adobe repair, or would traditional stucco be more appropriate? I power washed the whole house which exposed all the vulnerabilities in paint and stucco, so im trying to find a good solution for a ‘patch’ restoration, as we don’t have the means to completely strip all the paint and stucco. i’ll be repainting the house with an acrylic paint. just seeking best adheration, not sure we can keep every bit of water out, so a bit concerned about using an elastomeric type product. the place keeps pretty dry except for in the winter season. good amount of temperature flux here too, between mountains and desert. any word would be helpful. Thanks again
I'm confused.. Kirk you mixed sand with sikaflex then floated it over sikaflex crack repair or you mixed up a little stucco and that's what you floated and mixed on top of the sikaflex?
@@loganvonstrangle night and day, mor-flexx goes on easy and matches well plus it water soluble. Sika-flex is for sealing or adhering and won’t match a stucco surface plus is difficult to clean up.
Kurt have some stucco patch work going to be doing soon, trying to remember what you said in past videos when you use a float is it the more water on the float sponge brings out more of the sandy look in the stucco patch or the less water on the float makes it less sandy? thanks much in advance👍
Evening MrTruthislight, dude, you are really paying attention! Yes, that float went into the garbage as it could not be cleaned with water. I buy these green spong floats by the case about 70 per box, sometimes you just gotta throw them away, the one I used in this video was on it's last leg anyhow, by the way they do sell caulking with sand such as Mor-flexx but it's as strong or long lasting as this sikaflex caulking., but it is sure easier to use. best wishes, Kirk & Jason Giordano's DIY plastering & stucco network
Greetings Michael, many ways to skin a cat. thank you. Bringing peace, love, and brotherhood back to the world of “Plastering.” 🌍 The complete plastering encyclopedia on video, by the plastering messengers of RUclips. Over 850 videos 🎭 👀💃
Hey Kirk, I have an old home that was built around 1954. All the walls are plaster with the steel mesh embedded in the walls. I have to patch a bedroom wall and ceiling where we eliminated a closet. The walls have a real light sand finish to them. What kind of sand do you recommend and is there a method to how much sand to mix in? Is there some sand already in Dap plaster of paris that my local store sells?
Howdy Ricky, most gypsum based product have very little sand, you can buy a hanful of sand to add or buy a bag of veneer basecoat, it has fine sand in italready. Live long and plaster, Sharing so-called stucco secrets, or common sense tips
@@StuccoPlastering Actually, maybe we have a unique challenge for you in all your years of experience(?) We need to grout a shower in a trailer with porcelain tile that will experience a lot of movement. The substrate is solid 1/2" plywood, but it will undoubtedly flex a little bit on bigger bumps. We can't find a grout that's flexible that isn't super shiny/glossy so we're looking at alternatives. Does what you did here seem like something that would work permanently? Either way thanks again!
@@Trstn12 Hi Tristan, one can't put tile on plywood as, no matter the grout, moister will go through and swell the plywood which will cause the chain reaction of popping the tile off. No doubt with twenty showers or three months. You must use a cement board with a membrane underneath, Or lath and stucco or grout that piece of plywood.🤔
@@StuccoPlastering Noted and thank you again. We are planning on using a construction grade sealant adhesive made specifically for adhering tile directly to plywood and other uncommon substrates in high movement locations like trailers. It acts as a moisture barrier membrane that is (supposedly) impervious to water and any/all moisture with a permanent holding force and flexibility. (hopefully this isn't a too good to be true situation) It's mostly the grout decision we're hitting, if we have the plywood protected from moisture and the tiles adhered strongly to the substrate, we mostly just want a grout that will not crack with jarring movement and will also adhere to the edges of the tile. Does the way you filled that crack seem like a viable solution to the grout issue? Also, I take your expert opinion to heart, we are just at a point where we built out the shower with the knowledge of the adhesive we're using, so we can't really go back on it and will take our chances XD
Hey Kirk, whats the benefit here of using caulking over mesh tape and stucco? Is it that it that the caulking has more give and therefore less likely to crack again?
Good afternoon Alexander, good question, It helps with movement, but on the downside, it's tough to cover the mesh tape to prevent a bulging effect. There are many ways to skin a cat. Live long and plaster teaching plastering video’s
I've done pool mastic with sika flex and it has one weakness it needs air to cure. So if you want to add sand for texture you need to let it set up for a little while maybe ten or fifteen minutes or so. If you throw sand on it right away a month later it will be wet and goopy under the layer of sand.
Not really, once the Sika-Flex polyurethane caulking hits the air, it starts the drying process. I have had to throw away too many previously opened tubes, even though I sealed them well after using them. 👨🏻🔬
@@StuccoPlastering I re applied mastic around a pool with sika flex and immediately threw sand on it for texture and a full week later it was still goopy under the sand. THAT was a pain to clean out I will never forget. The second time around I used deck o seal and five years later it's still running strong. About 3 months ago I did another pool mastic for a friend of mine and used sika because it was cheaper only this time I gave it about 15 minutes to air dry before applying sand and the following day and week 100% all good. That's been my personal experience anyway. I should add with the deck o seal I added sand right away. No choice really, you get no time to tool it despite my having left it in the fridge and applied it in shade around the pool. Had to hire a helper too, deck o seal is very unforgiving.
@@Mike-qo4kp Morning Mike, I've never used "Deck O Seal" thus can't comment. I have been using "SikaaFlex-polyurethan adhesive sealant 1A" for over 40 years, It has never failed me, I'm talking about no doubt, a thousand tubes, in this time. Once air hits it, as when we open a tube and try our best to seal it, it won't seal, it will get hard as concrete within a few weeks if it's left in a tube. It's the strongest, longest caulking I'm aware of. 🕵🏼
@@StuccoPlastering hi Kirk, appreciate the response. I was just conveying my experience and the type of sika I was using was self leveling which might explain the variation. Never used the good stuff that you use I don't think. Kirk I have a question I am repainting the home I live in for the homeowner and there was a remodel done sometime ago. The home is old, south San Jose you're probably familiar with the area. Off blossom hill road by the foothills. Anyway the builder apparently among other things did not repair the stucco when he built out the kitchen. The house is stucco top half t1-11 bottom, anyway up on the second story where the stucco and roof shingles would meet there's a nasty big gap the length of the roof. Step flashing is clearly visible the whole way. I'd say the gap varies between an inch to several inches in some places where stucco is missing. Unsure how to proceed, but it's holding up my paint job. Homeowner hates how it looks and last year when it rained water was dripping in the kitchen it was making it's way to the fluorescent lights in the kitchen and dripping on the wood floor. Would appreciate any advice on what you think we should do. I think the house was built in the 60s. Also where the stucco walls meet siding the original builder used some kind of wooden drip edge which is rotted in several places. And where stucco and this drip edge meet there's no gap for water to drain so I'm not even sure what it's there for? If this was your house what would you do or change if anything? Appreciate your time and expertise, I watch your videos all the time.
This is a great video, thank you. But leave it to me to ask a probably stupid question. Lol if it's to able to be cleaned up with soap and water, what do you clean the float up with afterwards. I've never used one, but want to this time.
Greetings Brian, excellent question, the float goes into the garbage can. I buy by the box 100 in a box, sometimes sacrifices have to be made.😉 Bringing peace, love, and brotherhood back to the world of “Plastering.” 🌍 The complete plastering encyclopedia on video, by the plastering messengers of RUclips. Over 850 videos 🎭 👀💃
Hi Kirk, been watching your videos a lot to start preparing for minor repairs on our first home. How do you know a crack needs to be gouged out before caulking? Is it about the depth and width, or is it about what's causing the crack, or both?
This video below explains how to caulk cracks in stucco walls, whether structural or small. ruclips.net/video/2eIkdeIBbMs/видео.html/ As far as gouging, as long as the inside of the crack is clean, say you pressured washed the walls or used a wire brush, this sort of etches the inside of the crack where the caulking goes, your good. However, I'm scraping where the two cracks meet as this was like an earthquake, it caused both sides to flair out words, so I had to scrape that hump or ridge off, while I was doing it, I gauged or cleaned the sides as it had dust dirt grime and other junk in it. Remember nothing sticks to that stuff, not even the best caulkings. Okay, spider webs sitck. What happens if the crack is deeper than 3/8 or wider than 3/8, and you caulk it, and over the next few days, you notice the caulking got sucked in? Nothing happens. You just add more when you have time. In this video, I smeared the caulking all over as that's what needed to be done. As a rule, you just fill the crack any gets on the existing wall no problem, feather or blend it in. Thus when painted, it won’t show. Now you know. 🍾
Good Morning Grant, any sponge or paint brush that any Polyurethane calking gets on isn't worth the time to clean, I chucked it in the trash can. Live long and plaster Kirk and Jason Giordano plastering tips
Howdy Denny dude, the caulking is super strong and a sealant, so if I try not to get the float to touch the caulking just the finish which is stucco. I did wet the float a little bit as to dry a green sponge float will simply pull the stucco off. plaster it’s everywhere you want to be Sharing DIY Plastering tips from Giordano Plastering
Hi Robert w Sieburg, this way is tough, buy some Mor-Flexx, it is a lot easier, plus cleans up with soap and water and textures better than what I did here, cheers Kirk giordano
Hey Robert, he was using Sikaflex 1a Polyurethane Construction Sealant. I love the stuff....it cures to a very tough rubber consistency and adheres like crazy. But as Kirk pointed out, it can be challenging to work with in some situations, and for this application there are more user-friendly DIY options.
sikaflex, old school solvent based caulk. Appears to be best choice for concrete like stuff, don't know about how it stands up to the very new MS polymer sealants, they just started showing up in the US... and none of the major brands are doing one yet.
Howdy Gunnar, Dude, the best caulking sealants are also adhesives such as Sikaflex and Moistop caulking. There are many more, these two I happen to use often as they have never failed me plus both are professional grades and have stood the test of time. Live long and plaster Kirk Giordano’s Plastering answers to life’s issues
I use Phenoseal caulking, mostly around bathtub and installing tub or shower doors.. Red Devil 35 years ago was great also and so cheap . great for me is tacky, water clean up and over 25 year warranty. .
Howdy Thomas, I too liked the red devel for cracks interior, it was pure lime, it was the best. Why they stopped making it was is anyone's guess. May all be blessed with peace, love with harmony. Kirk and Jason’s Giordano’s plastering tips-mixed with sound advice
Howdy Ray, we just use what we have available, as long as it works were good. May all be blessed with peace, love with harmony. Kirk and Jason’s Giordano’s plastering tips-mixed with sound advice
Greetings Graham, I agree Dow Corning makes some awesome caulkings and flashings, among other things. Cheers, Sound Plastering tips from your favorite stucco geeks
@@StuccoPlastering most of Dows products I have used are silicone and totally wrong for this application NP1 is a quality product it used to be sonneborn then basf
Good Evening lIndan that is a sweet jsster, I will give it some thoguht as I don't ask anyone to do anything for free, Live long and plaster Kirk and Jason Giordano
Greetings Shawn, LOL, correction, rain lifts house's, you can't see or feel it, but cement walls always tend to crack with the first few months of rain. Why, excellent question, glad you asked. When dryer conditions return, the homes now get, let's say, "comfortable," and settle, thus hairline cracking. Bringing peace, love, and brotherhood back to the world of “Plastering.” 🌍 The complete plastering encyclopedia on video, by the plastering messengers of RUclips. Over 850 videos 🎭 👀💃
There is shrinkage, expansion and contraction, and wind too. Shrinkage can cause the hairline cracks. Different materials expand and contract at different rates based on temperature. Wind loading can cause stress on particular locations.
Hody Richard, I did the crack with Sikaflex 1A as the paper seal was broken plus it was way too deep for conventional caulking. I personally recommend More-flex or Quikrete with sand in them for 98 percent of stucco cracks. 🍾
Your the man Brother Kirk! Thank you for sharing all your experience and insight. I'm learning most of all how to explain to customers why they need to hire a professional stucco guy to do repairs for the best results. Also I'm learning to do some smaller repairs. Still if I don't know how to mix or choose the right material it will still fail. Im learning though ...THX AGAIN!
@@StuccoPlastering the others might be a better match aesthetically but sikaflex is a far superior product. I’m sure you know the difference between consumer products and professional products.
Just noticed a 1/8” crack on slab floor I need to fix. I was thinking Portland cement as a permanent bond but most contractors are saying polyurethane. ? 4” thick basement floor.
@@Doc02864 try consulting with a professional concrete guy. The soil and age of the home has a lot to do with it. I’ve seen homes that need to be shored with jacks at the load bearing columns and pour new concrete just depends if it’s structural or just cosmetic I guess. If cosmetic grind it even and fill it with sand and something strong . I’m learning off guys like this great stucco guy
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
I want to thank you for your videos.
As i have done a lot of repairs.
Following your instructions.
And they turned out amazing
Howdy Randy, thank you, you can depend on us for sound advice.💃
Im 38 years old i met my first love wen i was 15 years old her name stucco. 13 years later we are still workong together i subscribed to this chanell cause kirk knows what he is doing an talking about today i have my owen companie thank you kirk
Greetings Badir, man, I sho-nuff like your style. 😉
Bringing peace, love, and brotherhood back to the world of “Plastering.” 🌍
The complete plastering encyclopedia on video, by the plastering messengers of RUclips.
Over 850 videos 🎭 👀💃
..thank u kirk! u just made me realize that if u love what u do for a living u'll never have to work a day in ur life! THANK U FOR UR KNOWLEDGE N VERY HELPFUL TIPS N DEMONSTRATIONS! GOD BLESS!
Greetings Alex, now that's a beautiful quote.
Bringing peace, love, and brotherhood back to the world of “Plastering.” 🌍
The complete plastering encyclopedia on video, by the plastering messengers of RUclips.
Over 850 videos 🎭 👀💃
Quality video . Your camera man is pro quality . Thank you Mr Kirk.
Good afternoon Ray, the camera man, is my son Jason and fellow plasterer.
The complete plastering encyclopedia on video, by the plastering messengers of RUclips.
Over 850 videos 🎭 👀💃
Howdy BuildingInOklahoma dude, I just ordered a few tubes online to give it a shot,
thanks for the tip and have a great day.
kirk Giordano plastering
Glad I came across your channel and videos... thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Thanks for watching!
Captain Kirk you are a mad scientist. Love your videos.
Good Morning C C Dude, just letting folks know there's more than one way to skin a cat.
teaching plastering do’s, don'ts and reasons why
Live long and plaster
@@StuccoPlastering mad skill! Thanks
Very well explained. Thankyou
Glad it was helpful!
I commented on another vid you did I didn’t realize you are in SF Bay Area so am i. There are better sealants but most are multi component. Sika flex 1a has pretty high shore hardness but the fact is these type of cracks only usually move minimally with thermal expansion. And as you say vibration. With over 40 years experience installing sealants , for what you are doing don’t ever change from tried and true Sika. BTW I have always had better luck matching the texture by patting with a float than adding sand. I know you also use this method. Keep up the quality videos. You would think that this would be common knowledge to “stucco guys” but you would be amazed at how many just float a cementacious product in the crack and next year it’s back again. Keep it up
Amazing work as always I enjoyed watching your videos thanks for great tips 👌✌️👍🙏
Evening El Gordo, thank you, my friend.
Cheers,
Sound Plastering tips from your favorite stucco geeks
Thanks to your videos Kirk-I was able to do Stucco Repairs. I have a smooth fine finish with hairline cracks. I’m using Omegaflex Fine Finish and it is working great! Tedious as heck but it should be un-noticeable
That is awesome!
Good job Kirk 👍🇺🇸🙏🏽
Thank you, Larry.
You're the man, Kirk! Thanks for the tips!
Hey way to go with the Sika👍 And thanks for the heads up on how to “mix” it up
No problemo.
Hey Kirk, I've been using Sikaflex also for many years. It does a great job, but I also hate it because it is nasty, and won't wash off anything it gets near! But here is an alternate product that will clean up with water. It is called R-Guard by Prosocco. It is expensive, but well worth it for what it can do. Excellent adhesion, and about 30% flexing capacity. I'm a convert!! Give it a try. Thanks so much for your tutorials!
Good afternoon Paddy Daddy, good tip, thanks
Live long and plaster
teaching plastering video’s
Great video. How can you get the fix to match the same color as the rest of the wall?
Loved This. Great knowledge sharing!
Howdy You Dude, thank you, just another day at the office. 😏
Hello from Ireland
Great knowledge & great tips.
Howdy Allen from Ireland, thank you my friend.
Live long and plaster,
Sharing so-called stucco secrets, or common sense tips
i wish you were located in socal!
@@royjohnson9043 you and me both 😉
Kirk, you essentially made like stucco bondo.Good stuff. Sika anything is top of the line stuff. I’m a glazier, and rain buster is crap, only thing close to 1a sika is vulkem which literally smells like good gasoline. As far as poly it’s good stuff. I got a job for you in Santa Rosa , if you see this contact me.
Howdy Goff, Sicka is indeed an excellent but hard to clean product. We don't get any on our hands then no problemo.
Cheers.
i am starting a stucco job in the next week i was surprised when the person ordering the sand ordered a course brow sand when i did a stucco job back in the day i used a light color fine grain .i also used lime back then and when i went to a building supply they never heard of lime lett alone adding to the mix. the job 30 years ago was on the jersey coast and the job next week is in Puerto Rico.is it just a question of how the Latin countries work vs the northern.
Howdy Joe, there are many ways to skin a cat.
May all be blessed with peace, love with harmony.
Kirk and Jason’s Giordano’s plastering tips-mixed with sound advice
that was a great tip with the sand!
Hi ESCAGEDO WOODWORKING, today, there are many caulkings with the sand in them, I like Mor-flexx which is really easy plus it's water cleanable.
Best wishes,
kirk Giordano Plastering
Please explain the different types of caulking and their applications. I have a stucco exterior and If I paint over the caulking, do I use an acrylic caulking, or elastomeric caulking, or is there a caulking that' has sand in it. I'm concerned about how the acrylic paint will reveal the caulking.
@@birddogfreemann simply caulk your cracks with Mor-flexx, it is an acrylic based caulking with sand in it. You can’t go wrong.
Hi Kirk. Do u have any videos on fixing cracks that go into exposed brick pointing? I have a layer of bare brick on top of stuccoed wall (tile in between) cracked vertically in several places, Should I scrape out mortar and repoint or should I leave it and use strong caulking in the crack and then point on top of the crack with mortar, assuming that the crack will return in time? Cheers.
Howdy truth dude,
I have one that might shed some light on your question,
Copy and paste the link below and see if it helps,
ruclips.net/video/IkBHz_SQePQ/видео.html
best wishes,
Merry Christmas from the Giordano family to yours,
Amaizing video. Please tell me the name of that caulk product.
Thank you Kirk
Howdy Jose, I believe it was Sika-flex 1 A.
May all be blessed with peace, love with harmony.
Kirk and Jason’s Giordano’s plastering tips-mixed with sound advice
your awesome!
You rock!
Hey Kirk,
I filled some mortar cracks with some loctite PL polyurethane caulking, but i didn’t know the sand trick at the time. So I tried to feather it a bit with a big paint brush and water. Anyway, it says it’s paintable but now I’m wondering if I should go back with some sandy caulk to touch up before repainting. There are a ton of cracks so it’d be a big job. Oh, and also wondering if you could stucco over this stuff. Thanks, Dan
Hi daniel, yes you can color coat over the entire walls but you will need to pressure was first then apply a bonding agent, "quikrete to the entire wall" not in the mix.
This bonding agent will protect the surface so no ghosting or bleeding will show through the new color coat finish.
Or if yours skilled you can apply a Mor-Flexx caulking to all the cracks and feather that in, the Mor-Flexx is paintable.💃
@@StuccoPlastering thanks Kirk - been loving the vids, just about to start my mortar + stucco journey here on an old adobe home in the california southwest, so i’m sure i’ll be watching more. would you recommend a ‘stolit’ type product for old adobe repair, or would traditional stucco be more appropriate? I power washed the whole house which exposed all the vulnerabilities in paint and stucco, so im trying to find a good solution for a ‘patch’ restoration, as we don’t have the means to completely strip all the paint and stucco. i’ll be repainting the house with an acrylic paint. just seeking best adheration, not sure we can keep every bit of water out, so a bit concerned about using an elastomeric type product. the place keeps pretty dry except for in the winter season. good amount of temperature flux here too, between mountains and desert. any word would be helpful. Thanks again
I'm confused.. Kirk you mixed sand with sikaflex then floated it over sikaflex crack repair or you mixed up a little stucco and that's what you floated and mixed on top of the sikaflex?
hi i enjoyed watching your videos; could you do a video where you talk about the different sands and their application for the job
Evening Joe will do, I do have some, but couldn't find them myself, sorry.
Live long and plaster
Teaching plastering do’s, don'ts and reasons why
How different are sikaflex and morrflex?
@@loganvonstrangle night and day, mor-flexx goes on easy and matches well plus it water soluble. Sika-flex is for sealing or adhering and won’t match a stucco surface plus is difficult to clean up.
@@StuccoPlastering Thank you so much. Your videos are super helpful for this young first time home owner :)
Kurt have some stucco patch work going to be doing soon, trying to remember what you said in past videos when you use a float is it the more water on the float sponge brings out more of the sandy look in the stucco patch or the less water on the float makes it less sandy? thanks much in advance👍
Howdy Jerome, correctomundo.👍
Have you tried Vulkem 116? Its also very good for these type of repairs
Greetings Blumnt, no, but I heard from a contractor pal of mine that it was good stuff.
Cheers,
Sound Plastering tips from your favorite stucco geeks
@@StuccoPlastering Vulkem 116 is another good product
Will the caulking destroy the sponge float if its not water soluble? How do you clean off? Thanks.
Evening MrTruthislight, dude, you are really paying attention! Yes, that float went into the garbage as it could not be cleaned with water.
I buy these green spong floats by the case about 70 per box, sometimes you just gotta throw them away, the one I used in this video was on it's last leg anyhow,
by the way they do sell caulking with sand such as Mor-flexx but it's as strong or long lasting as this sikaflex caulking., but it is sure easier to use.
best wishes,
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missing the not between it's and as.
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Greetings Michael, many ways to skin a cat. thank you.
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Hey Kirk, I have an old home that was built around 1954. All the walls are plaster with the steel mesh embedded in the walls. I have to patch a bedroom wall and ceiling where we eliminated a closet. The walls have a real light sand finish to them. What kind of sand do you recommend and is there a method to how much sand to mix in? Is there some sand already in Dap plaster of paris that my local store sells?
Howdy Ricky, most gypsum based product have very little sand, you can buy a hanful of sand to add or buy a bag of veneer basecoat, it has fine sand in italready.
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Thank you for the video Kirk, very helpful. What kind of Sand did you mix with the Sika?
Howdy Triston, just regular stucco sand which is called either Felton or Olimpia sand.👍
@@StuccoPlastering thank you 🙂
@@StuccoPlastering Actually, maybe we have a unique challenge for you in all your years of experience(?) We need to grout a shower in a trailer with porcelain tile that will experience a lot of movement. The substrate is solid 1/2" plywood, but it will undoubtedly flex a little bit on bigger bumps. We can't find a grout that's flexible that isn't super shiny/glossy so we're looking at alternatives. Does what you did here seem like something that would work permanently? Either way thanks again!
@@Trstn12 Hi Tristan, one can't put tile on plywood as, no matter the grout, moister will go through and swell the plywood which will cause the chain reaction of popping the tile off. No doubt with twenty showers or three months. You must use a cement board with a membrane underneath, Or lath and stucco or grout that piece of plywood.🤔
@@StuccoPlastering Noted and thank you again. We are planning on using a construction grade sealant adhesive made specifically for adhering tile directly to plywood and other uncommon substrates in high movement locations like trailers. It acts as a moisture barrier membrane that is (supposedly) impervious to water and any/all moisture with a permanent holding force and flexibility. (hopefully this isn't a too good to be true situation) It's mostly the grout decision we're hitting, if we have the plywood protected from moisture and the tiles adhered strongly to the substrate, we mostly just want a grout that will not crack with jarring movement and will also adhere to the edges of the tile. Does the way you filled that crack seem like a viable solution to the grout issue? Also, I take your expert opinion to heart, we are just at a point where we built out the shower with the knowledge of the adhesive we're using, so we can't really go back on it and will take our chances XD
Hey Kirk, whats the benefit here of using caulking over mesh tape and stucco? Is it that it that the caulking has more give and therefore less likely to crack again?
Good afternoon Alexander, good question,
It helps with movement, but on the downside, it's tough to cover the mesh tape to prevent a bulging effect.
There are many ways to skin a cat.
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I've done pool mastic with sika flex and it has one weakness it needs air to cure. So if you want to add sand for texture you need to let it set up for a little while maybe ten or fifteen minutes or so. If you throw sand on it right away a month later it will be wet and goopy under the layer of sand.
Not really, once the Sika-Flex polyurethane caulking hits the air, it starts the drying process.
I have had to throw away too many previously opened tubes, even though I sealed them well after using them. 👨🏻🔬
@@StuccoPlastering I re applied mastic around a pool with sika flex and immediately threw sand on it for texture and a full week later it was still goopy under the sand. THAT was a pain to clean out I will never forget. The second time around I used deck o seal and five years later it's still running strong. About 3 months ago I did another pool mastic for a friend of mine and used sika because it was cheaper only this time I gave it about 15 minutes to air dry before applying sand and the following day and week 100% all good. That's been my personal experience anyway. I should add with the deck o seal I added sand right away. No choice really, you get no time to tool it despite my having left it in the fridge and applied it in shade around the pool. Had to hire a helper too, deck o seal is very unforgiving.
@@Mike-qo4kp Morning Mike, I've never used "Deck O Seal" thus can't comment. I have been using "SikaaFlex-polyurethan adhesive sealant 1A" for over 40 years, It has never failed me, I'm talking about no doubt, a thousand tubes, in this time. Once air hits it, as when we open a tube and try our best to seal it, it won't seal, it will get hard as concrete within a few weeks if it's left in a tube. It's the strongest, longest caulking I'm aware of. 🕵🏼
@@StuccoPlastering hi Kirk, appreciate the response. I was just conveying my experience and the type of sika I was using was self leveling which might explain the variation. Never used the good stuff that you use I don't think.
Kirk I have a question I am repainting the home I live in for the homeowner and there was a remodel done sometime ago. The home is old, south San Jose you're probably familiar with the area. Off blossom hill road by the foothills. Anyway the builder apparently among other things did not repair the stucco when he built out the kitchen. The house is stucco top half t1-11 bottom, anyway up on the second story where the stucco and roof shingles would meet there's a nasty big gap the length of the roof. Step flashing is clearly visible the whole way. I'd say the gap varies between an inch to several inches in some places where stucco is missing. Unsure how to proceed, but it's holding up my paint job. Homeowner hates how it looks and last year when it rained water was dripping in the kitchen it was making it's way to the fluorescent lights in the kitchen and dripping on the wood floor. Would appreciate any advice on what you think we should do. I think the house was built in the 60s. Also where the stucco walls meet siding the original builder used some kind of wooden drip edge which is rotted in several places. And where stucco and this drip edge meet there's no gap for water to drain so I'm not even sure what it's there for? If this was your house what would you do or change if anything? Appreciate your time and expertise, I watch your videos all the time.
This is a great video, thank you. But leave it to me to ask a probably stupid question. Lol if it's to able to be cleaned up with soap and water, what do you clean the float up with afterwards. I've never used one, but want to this time.
Greetings Brian, excellent question, the float goes into the garbage can.
I buy by the box 100 in a box, sometimes sacrifices have to be made.😉
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Hi Kirk, been watching your videos a lot to start preparing for minor repairs on our first home. How do you know a crack needs to be gouged out before caulking? Is it about the depth and width, or is it about what's causing the crack, or both?
This video below explains how to caulk cracks in stucco walls, whether structural or small.
ruclips.net/video/2eIkdeIBbMs/видео.html/
As far as gouging, as long as the inside of the crack is clean, say you pressured washed the walls or used a wire brush, this sort of etches the inside of the crack where the caulking goes, your good.
However, I'm scraping where the two cracks meet as this was like an earthquake, it caused both sides to flair out words, so I had to scrape that hump or ridge off, while I was doing it, I gauged or cleaned the sides as it had dust dirt grime and other junk in it.
Remember nothing sticks to that stuff, not even the best caulkings.
Okay, spider webs sitck.
What happens if the crack is deeper than 3/8 or wider than 3/8, and you caulk it, and over the next few days, you notice the caulking got sucked in? Nothing happens.
You just add more when you have time. In this video, I smeared the caulking all over as that's what needed to be done.
As a rule, you just fill the crack any gets on the existing wall no problem, feather or blend it in.
Thus when painted, it won’t show.
Now you know. 🍾
@@StuccoPlastering Thanks for the link, I’ve been binge watching a lot of your videos. All are very informative and very useful thank you so much!!
Kirk, How will you clean you sponge?
(-:
Good Morning Grant, any sponge or paint brush that any Polyurethane calking gets on isn't worth the time to clean, I chucked it in the trash can.
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so what did you do with the float?
Howdy Denny dude, the caulking is super strong and a sealant, so if I try not to get the float to touch the caulking just the finish which is stucco.
I did wet the float a little bit as to dry a green sponge float will simply pull the stucco off.
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What is it you used? what is the product name?
Hi Robert w Sieburg, this way is tough, buy some Mor-Flexx, it is a lot easier, plus cleans up with soap and water and textures better than what I did here,
cheers
Kirk giordano
Thank you Kirk for responding back.
Hello Robert, no worries.
kirk
Hey Robert, he was using Sikaflex 1a Polyurethane Construction Sealant. I love the stuff....it cures to a very tough rubber consistency and adheres like crazy. But as Kirk pointed out, it can be challenging to work with in some situations, and for this application there are more user-friendly DIY options.
Atta boy Ted,
cheers,
kirk giordano
Elvis in the building
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What caulking are you using???
sikaflex, old school solvent based caulk. Appears to be best choice for concrete like stuff, don't know about how it stands up to the very new MS polymer sealants, they just started showing up in the US... and none of the major brands are doing one yet.
What type of caulk do you use to seal the gaps between windows and EIFS stucco? Thanks in advance
Howdy Gunnar, Dude, the best caulking sealants are also adhesives such as Sikaflex and Moistop caulking.
There are many more, these two I happen to use often as they have never failed me plus both are professional grades and have stood the test of time.
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"Mixed up some sand"... Is sand mixed with what? Just a bit of water? Thanks.
Good afternoon Kyle dude, the sand will stick to the caulking, happy holidays
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Cement is not flexibl ble. The flexible stuff will keep the crack closed for a longer time. Especially true for this kind of crack.
I use Phenoseal caulking, mostly around bathtub and installing tub or shower doors.. Red Devil 35 years ago was great also and so cheap . great for me is tacky, water clean up and over 25 year warranty. .
Howdy Thomas, I too liked the red devel for cracks interior, it was pure lime, it was the best.
Why they stopped making it was is anyone's guess.
May all be blessed with peace, love with harmony.
Kirk and Jason’s Giordano’s plastering tips-mixed with sound advice
I thought Sika was strictly for horizontal cracks?
It’s a adhesive sealant with hundreds of purposes
I seen landscapers use sika on retaining walls as a cement
Good afternoon ray, it is that strong
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Notice you didn't need web Crete with the stikoflec
Hey Kirk, you’re using the plumbers excuse, “forgot a tool or part”. lol
Howdy Ray, we just use what we have available, as long as it works were good.
May all be blessed with peace, love with harmony.
Kirk and Jason’s Giordano’s plastering tips-mixed with sound advice
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Hi Kirk, Can you paint over Sikaflex?
Howdy my friend, yes you can
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Try masterseal np1 or Dow corning products. Dow is really good for adhering to concrete.
Greetings Graham, I agree Dow Corning makes some awesome caulkings and flashings, among other things.
Cheers,
Sound Plastering tips from your favorite stucco geeks
@@StuccoPlastering most of Dows products I have used are silicone and totally wrong for this application NP1 is a quality product it used to be sonneborn then basf
I have used a Diamond grout removing hand tool,only $10-15 or so.
(-:
Good Morning Grant many ways to skin a cat.
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groovy
Greetings Paul, atta boy.
Cheers,
Sound Plastering tips from your favorite stucco geeks
Dont pull the caulk gun when you're trying to get it deep into the crack. Keep it 90 degrees from wall. Push it into it. Then do your thing
Greetings Andrew, thank for the tip.
Cheers,
Sound Plastering tips from your favorite stucco geeks
woah I didn't know you were in Oakland! If you ever need an apprentice free of charge let me know! Jeanty
Good Evening lIndan that is a sweet jsster, I will give it some thoguht as I don't ask anyone to do anything for free,
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Rain moves houses now? Never heard that one before lol
Greetings Shawn, LOL, correction, rain lifts house's, you can't see or feel it, but cement walls always tend to crack with the first few months of rain.
Why, excellent question, glad you asked. When dryer conditions return, the homes now get, let's say, "comfortable," and settle, thus hairline cracking.
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There is shrinkage, expansion and contraction, and wind too. Shrinkage can cause the hairline cracks. Different materials expand and contract at different rates based on temperature. Wind loading can cause stress on particular locations.
Polyurethane caulking really ? Says every painter watching this.lol
Hody Richard, I did the crack with Sikaflex 1A as the paper seal was broken plus it was way too deep for conventional caulking.
I personally recommend More-flex or Quikrete with sand in them for 98 percent of stucco
cracks. 🍾
Your the man Brother Kirk! Thank you for sharing all your experience and insight. I'm learning most of all how to explain to customers why they need to hire a professional stucco guy to do repairs for the best results. Also I'm learning to do some smaller repairs. Still if I don't know how to mix or choose the right material it will still fail. Im learning though ...THX AGAIN!
@@StuccoPlastering the others might be a better match aesthetically but sikaflex is a far superior product. I’m sure you know the difference between consumer products and professional products.
Just noticed a 1/8” crack on slab floor I need to fix. I was thinking Portland cement as a permanent bond but most contractors are saying polyurethane. ? 4” thick basement floor.
@@Doc02864 try consulting with a professional concrete guy. The soil and age of the home has a lot to do with it.
I’ve seen homes that need to be shored with jacks at the load bearing columns and pour new concrete just depends if it’s structural or just cosmetic I guess.
If cosmetic grind it even and fill it with sand and something strong . I’m learning off guys like this great stucco guy