I paint a ton of Death so this will be an invaluable video for me. Thanks so much Vince! Really cool to see you revisit some topics like undead flesh in your new format.
I had no intention of painting this mini whatsoever, but I saw Vince was behind it and I clicked on it: I immediately learned a ton! Vince always takes the time to explain his process and utilizes the technical terms as well. You'll always learn something when you're watching one of Vince's videos, regardless of the subject.
This is the perfect skintone to paint some new Malifaux Models coming out. Kastore and his undead Nephilim models. Huzzah! So glad I found this channel, so many useful videos.
Hey Vince, just wanted to let you know that your work is appreciated - you are providing a truly great resource to the community for beginners and experienced painters alike. The only thing i keep wondering is how you can come up with new tutorial ideas after 300+ previous HC episodes. Keep it up!
Vince, just wanted to say that you are an excellent instructor. A lot of videos simply say "Do this, and you be better" which really helps nobody if you don't know why. Your videos absolutely explain what you're doing, why you're doing it, and how, which really helps the light bulb go on :D .
Great vid, as always, Vince! The bad news: I just finished a vampire right before this came out. The good news: I've learned so much these past years that I did quite well regardless. The best news: There's ALWAYS more vampires to paint...
Started Anasta Malkorion this morning using this method. She came very close to taking a bath in LAs Totally Awesome before I ran a glaze of a magical lilac color I blended with everything on my pallet. This last ditch refinement saved the day - the skin on her front leg was looking like a sideshow. Lesson learned - don't give up too quickly. Great video Vince, but I clearly need more practice with the sketch style. Likely my bright warm grey/aqua mix was far too heavy toward the aqua. Seems more subtly is key.
I enjoy the new video format! I learned so much about warm and cold paint applications. This was extremely helpful even though I am not painting vampire or moonlight skin anytime soon. The white dot on a black screen example was very smart and helpful for me. I see how adding the the small touches will make a big difference for my work!!!! I can see how this would work in the opposite of how you showed it. Very warm with cold shadows. Thanks you!!
Your initial stuff has become somewhat my standard start up. Depending on my goal, I'll go colder shadows as a shade and warmer highlight as a drybrush. If nothing else, gives me a really clear view of all the details at least.
Thank You! I've been toying w/ undead flesh and nothing was working. Was trying to lean into a little red in the shadows at the beginning and it was all wrong. This will get me where I want to go.
This tutorial would also be useful for something like a frost giant or daemons with cold skin. In fact I have used this pallet for my icy themed demons; love these colors!
Vince your timing is impeccable, this is exactly what I was hoping to do experiment with over coffee this AM. Thank you for all that you do and for being so inspiring
@@VinceVenturella Random question Vince, do you still use Camera+ (which I believe is now called Camera+ Legacy) or Camera+ 2, etc.? I’m picking up Legacy rn but figured I’d check if you’re like “Oh they hollowed it out with in-app purchases, go with X instead”. Thank you for your time!
Hot news: Cursed City returns this Saturday as "Made to Order" for two weeks - at the same price as last year. Then Cursed City will be receiving a full relaunch later this year, along with some juicy new expansions.
Wonderful tutorial.. Especially the 'early bright highlights' which I'd never have thought of reversing my process.. I've got the Crimson Court models from Underworlds primed and on my short list to paint so this will be invaluable.
Thank you! Bookmarking this for my Soulblight painting this year. I learned red glazing from one of your earlier videos and it's really made my minis come to life.
Even when you dont plan on ever painting Vampires, there is always something to learn from you. Your comment about Moonlight did make me wonder, how would I convincingly theme an army around dawn/sunset? And how would that carry to bases or even snow bases?
@@VinceVenturella So since its lights the oranges and yellows would need to go into the layers and highlighted areas of the model. I'll have to experiment on what would be the best way to achieve that. You glazed the light in here to the point where its almost a Filter, so I'll have to experiment with that. Thank you Vince! Edit: Equally tinting the not-lit side blue would be the right thing to do, correct? Blue not only is almost the exact opposite of yellow/orange, but its also the colour the eastern sky has when sunset comes around in the west.
Love this video I came back for my flesh eater court army and even though I love the skin I wonder how to apply it to my army, I usually work my way up from the shadows to the highlights…😅 And all the glazes and back and forth seems quite daunting
Great tutorial! While I'm currently not painting vampiric skin, tip of sketching out highlights first is useful for my NMM attempt. I'm having trouble visualising where to place light reflections (not even thinking about secondary bounces, that's out of my reach for now).
Hello Vince! Another Fantastic video! I find your Radukar scheme is a blast! I am very curious also about the process you used for his armor. The skin tutorial is just fantastic, as the final piece!
Thank you, the armor was some basic NMM steel starting from a sort of Deep Sea Blue video, I've had some earlier videos in the playlist where I talk through NMM steel.
I’m sure it’s just years of practice, but I’m always amazed with how quick Vince can make minis look amazing. I’m less than a year into the hobby and am really struggling with making minis look clean. They just come out so messy. Anyone have any additional Vince video recommendations? I’m working on a shirtless barbarian from black sun miniatures now. My glazed just don’t seem to come out smooth. Tried both more and less dilution, more and less moister. It always seems to come out spotty.
So I have my videos on glazing - ruclips.net/video/N88NtHNmz1Q/видео.html Here is a video on paint dilution - ruclips.net/video/TbCtUYFwFWQ/видео.html Here is a skin tone video with those techniques in play - ruclips.net/video/N8rmdUPxhUI/видео.html Here is an old one, on pink skin - ruclips.net/video/iUFnyLL7cSY/видео.html Hope those all help.
Great to see more channel growth, congrats. And exactly the right Video I've been waiting from you. Got some in the shelf I'm looking Forward to after the Warcry Tome of Champions 2021 😁
Hey Vince. I've been giving some thought to the discontinuity in the colour wheel, between warm reds such as your cadmiums, and the cool reds like the alizarins and magentas. Everyone knows red and blue mixes to make purple, except that's just not true: it makes plum brown. If you tried glazing with a cadmium based red, I feel that this wouldn't work, you'd start to get a muddy effect. I assume red violet is possibly a quinacridone based pigment? Are there other discontinuities in the colour wheel like this? I assume in the case of red to magenta, it's because of the discontinuity in wavelengths of light absorbed and reflected, but maybe other pigments misbehave in the same way? Like cadmium yellows mixed in with blues also get a little muddy and don't make a vibrant green like lemon yellow does?
Hmm, I wonder if the problem here is that cadmium red and yellow are actually hues mixed from other PR / PY pigments? Maybe it's my cadmium hue paints that are misbehaving?
My honest answer is I am not sure I don't normally worry about it too much. In this case, I tend to use magentas because they just generally work better in this way, but I've seen people use more traditional reds in the same way, often inks, so it could just be the paint construction more than anything else.
Hey there. Might be able to help here so apologies for the gate crash since Vince isn’t sure First is whether you’re talking about actual cadmium’s vs hues Secondly it doesn’t really matter too much. But whether cad is cad yellow light. Or deep. Or mid does affect the hue a lot. All colours kind of tilt toward another one of the primaries and it’s that what influences whether they make violets vs plums kind of thing. Or. Types of greens. Let’s stick with greens as it’s the same thinking for purples. Lemon yellow is usually (because lemon yellow varies amongst manufacturers and mediums ) yellow that tilts towards blue, I.e. green on the colour wheel. You also get yellows that tilt towards red, and so are more orange or egg yolk. This is often referred to as cold toned. Warm toned. Safety vest vs egg yolk is my thinking. But there’s more ! Blues all tilt towards either yellow or red. Usually known as green toned vs red toned. Why it’s not yellow vs red or green vs purple I don’t know. But commonly that’s how it’s known. Ultramarine blue (as in the real pigment pb29 I think) is a red toned blue. Pthalo Blue green shade Is a very green based blue. When you mix paint to make green, you’re not just mixing blue and yellow, you’re also mixing their tints. So if you mix a red toned blue and a red toned yellow, you just mixed red, blue, yellow to get your green. And now it’s muddy and not bright. Because you added a lot of red/orange to your green If you mix a green toned yellow and a green toned blue, now you’re adding no red and you get a real crisp bright green. Purple works the same way. Red (purple) toned blue added to a blue (purple) toned red - bright vibrant violet / purple Don’t add green to your purple mixes via the tint and all is sorted.
@@malkcontent thanks for a very detailed and well considered reply! Yes, I used to think about colours in terms of primaries and secondaries: it's very difficult not to when you've been taught that way your whole life since school. But, try this: add a little bit of (pure pigment) quinac magenta to pthalo green. If you add the right amount, you'll get a dark blue much like Prussian blue. It's not a muddy blue, it's a strong dark blue. Add more magenta, and you move towards diox purple. Again, a dark purple, but certainly not muddy. Red plus green should equal brown, but that's not what we get with a cold red plus a cold green. So, circling back to your first question: since mini paints never give us their pigment recipes, I can only assume my mini paint reds are a blend, as is my cad red hue oil paint. So, I think you're right, it's a problem of blends vs single pigment paints tending towards mud when mixed.
Thanks for the video Vince! I actually sketched … poorly? Basically my whole model become purple and blue but I had to slowly creep all the way back. At the end I learned a lot from this and how to better blend colors. Appreciate it.
Nice, thanks Vince. I was wanting a blue skin tutorial, alive but I think I get the principles to use. This time you've switched around the heat colours for use with the undead; warm shadow and cold highlights. Are you going to be doing an Army Painter Speed Paint review at some point?
Hi Vince! You mentioned blue grey would be a good starting point for caucassian flesh in a Moonlight environment. In that case Will you just change Violet for a flesh like bugmans glow? Thanks!
Excellent video! But my question is, what would be Vallejo or Citadel equivalents to the Scale 75 paints you used in this video, so as to get a close match? My mixing skills aren't quite up to your level yet.
Any advice for doing an "in between" vampire palette? Thinking specifically something like a Blood Angel, but also have some fantasy figures this would apply to. In other words - maybe some warmth without making it too clashing? Last time I tried this it kinda looked greenish :) Wasn't aiming for a follower of Nurgle.
Just integrate a little more traditional skin tone of whatever ethnicity you're painting. If you're talking caucasian, then you are wanting a little more pink/orange in the mix to bring in a little more life.
Could I apply the thin purple glaze after I've painted my skin tone? I'm painting a bust of a devilish creature and though I'm happy with the blends on the skin I think I've made it come out too human and I want to knock it back to be a bit cooler. I was thinking of glazing over with a very thin purple ink or wash to try and counteract some of the orange in the citadel flesh tones that I've used.
A little side question If i wanted to paint some visible veins in skin either at the temple or at the back of the hand. What colors should i use? I have seen some guides using a blue color similar to Vallejo´s game air magic blue, while others use a red color which is then glazed over with a bluish color. So how would you paint it?
If I were doing albino skin, would I just use warmer colours in this recipe rather than the colder blues you used … while keeping the white aspects similar?
Just tried this on the very much smaller Isabella Von Carstein model and found it incredibly difficult. Would you recommend different methodology for smaller mini's, or do I just need to hone the technique? Cheers!
There is certainly practice here, these types of paint jobs are always a difficult balance, but it's tougher when you have less skin like that model as well, so don't feel bad at all.
What did you use for your zenithal? I just tried a wash over a black primer/white ink zenithal that dried for a few hours and the ink just washed right off. Maybe it just needed to dry for longer?
So you have to be careful as some inks will reactivate. It can be a part of a the inks or the humidity. One way to make sure that doesn't happen is a quick coat of varnish after the ink.
At the beginning you said you used a purple as a warm undertone however later in the video you say the purple is a cold color could you explain when a purple is cold or warm?
Hi Vince, just stumbled upon this video while researching vampiric skin. Thanks for the video, it was great help! I have a question though: Do you have a tutorial/guide or ideas on how to paint non-caucasian skin vampiric? E.g. Dark Skin
Hey Vince! Vampires/ the undead are the main focus of my hobby and I'm wondering if you have any ideas for a problem I've been having. I would like to make vampires with different ethnic backgrounds but have had a hard time getting the pallid/dead flesh look to work with anything not based on a Caucasian scheme. Do you have any ideas or suggestions? (TL;DR tips for painting not white vampires)
Sure, the answer is basically, you're incorporating the grey/white into the mid and high tones, so if you consider an african skin tone, you can do the same thing as here, you can have the normal brown skin tone in the low-mids and purple shadows, but then you are highlighting more with a grey brown for more of the deathly aspect.
I've seen mixing your own flesh tones work like this; Caucasian is orange + white, African is orange + black (both with a little blue). As Vince was saying, you're basically trying to rip the orange out of it, so instead of a white pale skin you'd end up with a very dark slightly bluish skin. However, while that might be "realistic", it's not necessarily going to read the way you like, so I do think I'd exercise some artistic discretion and maybe keep a bit of the brown like Vince suggested.
It takes a pigment rich paint to glaze light colors and it will show if it's over darker colors. So my advice is two fold. First, just don't glaze light tones whenever you can avoid it, instead, layer them and glaze down with your mid-low tones. My next advice is use a medium to thin them instead of water. That can help keep the pigment evenly distributed as opposed to breaking up with too much solvent (water).
This was a fantastic tutorial. One thing I've been trying to figure out is how to paint vampiric skin on an individual that was dark skinned. Most off-white vampiric does read as a light skinned individual turned vampire. How would you recommend building up a pale Vampiric effect to flesh that "was" dark in the characters life? So far all I can think are smaller highlights and more purple in to the midtones.
Sure, the answer is basically, you're incorporating the grey/white into the mid and high tones, so if you consider an african skin tone, you can do the same thing as here, you can have the normal brown skin tone in the low-mids and purple shadows, but then you are highlighting more with a grey brown for more of the deathly aspect.
@@VinceVenturella awesome, thank you so much. I'm relatively Green around the gills and have been focusing more on brush work and technique over colour theory so thank you so much for this reply.
You said that the miscatonic grey was a color you hadn't used up to a certain point during the painting. I'm not sure if youve answered this question in other hobby cheating videos, (apologies if you have.) But do you preplan every color that goes on to the miniature, or do you pick colors sort of on feeling? like the miscatonic(Almost certain I'm miss spelling that🤤) grey addition. Thanks for sharing an astounding amount of knowledge with us by the way 😊.
I get a selection of colors out I think I will use and order them from shadow to highlight. I don't always use all of them, and sometimes I add one in later. It's more I have a rough idea of the road I'm driving, but I might make stops along the way.
@@VinceVenturella I'll be sure to try that, I'm normally a mess and just pick colors almost randomly as I'm painting. Might explain why my paint jobs look kinda bad at the end 😊.
I mean, you're basically looking at it. :) - BUt I may do something specifically on it (the key being the desaturation, warm shadows, cold highlights, influence of blue and grey).
Vince, thanks for another gem, but can I maybe suggest that you reevaluate your sound level? Overall it is quite low and the difference between intro and video is quite noticable. Thanks for doing these!
You'd need the expanded palette with the cold tones likely to really make it work, or just use the black/yellow into the white to get something more jaundiced and sickly.
@@VinceVenturella am planing a undead mordheim warband in zorn pallat, and adding blue-green for the magic. but might have to ad a come cold tones for the skin
I have two crystal brushes, and I certainly value those a great deal (as it doesn't exist now). It's likely the Gen-Con Best in Show. I made an oath to myself one year to win Best in Show within 5 years and I got it the 3rd year from that, which really was an amazing and wonderful day.
@@VinceVenturella That's amazing, maybe one day with your tutorials as help ill get my first trophy. I need to enter a competition though first lol. I was planning on going to one next month but life has got in the way, as it does.
That is the best guide for vampiric flesh I've seen so far. Thank you, this gives me ideas for my blood bowl ghouls!
Awesome, thank you! :)
Just noticed you crossed over 75K Followers, congratulations Vince, and thanks for another great tutorial! 🎨👨🎨
The long road to 100K begins!
I paint a ton of Death so this will be an invaluable video for me. Thanks so much Vince! Really cool to see you revisit some topics like undead flesh in your new format.
Thank you on both counts. :)
I had no intention of painting this mini whatsoever, but I saw Vince was behind it and I clicked on it: I immediately learned a ton! Vince always takes the time to explain his process and utilizes the technical terms as well. You'll always learn something when you're watching one of Vince's videos, regardless of the subject.
Thank you, that's wonderful to hear.
This is the perfect skintone to paint some new Malifaux Models coming out. Kastore and his undead Nephilim models. Huzzah! So glad I found this channel, so many useful videos.
Thank you! Always happy to help. :)
By far one of the best painters on RUclips
Thank you!
Hey Vince, just wanted to let you know that your work is appreciated - you are providing a truly great resource to the community for beginners and experienced painters alike. The only thing i keep wondering is how you can come up with new tutorial ideas after 300+ previous HC episodes. Keep it up!
Thank you, that means a great deal to me. :)
This is awesome. I've been really struggling with painting vampire skin without it looking rubbish so this is really helpful. Thank you
Glad I could help!
Thanks Vince! As always thank you for all you do in the hobby for us! Super helpful on this skin tone.
Thanks!
Vince, just wanted to say that you are an excellent instructor. A lot of videos simply say "Do this, and you be better" which really helps nobody if you don't know why. Your videos absolutely explain what you're doing, why you're doing it, and how, which really helps the light bulb go on :D .
Thank you, that is exactly what I am going for. :)
Great vid, as always, Vince!
The bad news: I just finished a vampire right before this came out.
The good news: I've learned so much these past years that I did quite well regardless.
The best news: There's ALWAYS more vampires to paint...
There are always more vampires!
Its the elegance of your videos that draws me Vince. No nonsense. Solid. I can certainly appreciate the contrast color to bring it all together! dope.
Thank you, that's exactly the goal. :)
Started Anasta Malkorion this morning using this method. She came very close to taking a bath in LAs Totally Awesome before I ran a glaze of a magical lilac color I blended with everything on my pallet. This last ditch refinement saved the day - the skin on her front leg was looking like a sideshow. Lesson learned - don't give up too quickly. Great video Vince, but I clearly need more practice with the sketch style. Likely my bright warm grey/aqua mix was far too heavy toward the aqua. Seems more subtly is key.
Yep, glad it all worked out. :)
Whoop! Vince V making me a better painter yet again!
Big ups!
Always happy to help. :)
I enjoy the new video format! I learned so much about warm and cold paint applications. This was extremely helpful even though I am not painting vampire or moonlight skin anytime soon. The white dot on a black screen example was very smart and helpful for me. I see how adding the the small touches will make a big difference for my work!!!! I can see how this would work in the opposite of how you showed it. Very warm with cold shadows. Thanks you!!
Always happy to help. :)
Your initial stuff has become somewhat my standard start up.
Depending on my goal, I'll go colder shadows as a shade and warmer highlight as a drybrush. If nothing else, gives me a really clear view of all the details at least.
Absolutely.
The talk through is invaluable, gives us an insight to the mind of the technomancer :D
It's dangerous in there. ;)
I just painted a vampire the other day. Wish I saw this first, I was just white base and white contrast paint
Fantastic work
Thanks!
Thank You! I've been toying w/ undead flesh and nothing was working. Was trying to lean into a little red in the shadows at the beginning and it was all wrong. This will get me where I want to go.
This tutorial would also be useful for something like a frost giant or daemons with cold skin. In fact I have used this pallet for my icy themed demons; love these colors!
100%
"Creatures of the Night!" - Love the quote from "Rocky Horror Picture Show"
Oh, I can do most of those songs by heart. :)
Thank you, Vince, for another great tutorial and detailed explanations!
My pleasure!
Vince your timing is impeccable, this is exactly what I was hoping to do experiment with over coffee this AM. Thank you for all that you do and for being so inspiring
Glad it was helpful!
@@VinceVenturella Random question Vince, do you still use Camera+ (which I believe is now called Camera+ Legacy) or Camera+ 2, etc.? I’m picking up Legacy rn but figured I’d check if you’re like “Oh they hollowed it out with in-app purchases, go with X instead”. Thank you for your time!
@@shaddonon I use my DSLR now, so I don't use the app anymore, but I've heard others still use and enjoy it.
Hot news: Cursed City returns this Saturday as "Made to Order" for two weeks - at the same price as last year.
Then Cursed City will be receiving a full relaunch later this year, along with some juicy new expansions.
Yep, very exciting!
And now what? I was just about to start my Vi-drasta conversion after finishing Arcane and now I want to paint Vampires. Well that's just great... 😀
Awesome
Wonderful tutorial.. Especially the 'early bright highlights' which I'd never have thought of reversing my process.. I've got the Crimson Court models from Underworlds primed and on my short list to paint so this will be invaluable.
Awesome!
This is the best painted Radukar ❤
Finally. I have been waint a long time fpr this army ☺️☺️ thank you!
Thank you! Bookmarking this for my Soulblight painting this year. I learned red glazing from one of your earlier videos and it's really made my minis come to life.
It's that last magic touch.
Your delivery of knowledge is incredible, keep it up Vince!
Thanks!
really knocked it out of the park on this one. great video.
Thanks!
Just used this tutorial for my Vai today! Looks amazing now, thank you for the great video! 👍
Great to hear! :)
Even when you dont plan on ever painting Vampires, there is always something to learn from you. Your comment about Moonlight did make me wonder, how would I convincingly theme an army around dawn/sunset? And how would that carry to bases or even snow bases?
Sunset is really tricky, it's the golden hour, so you want to really ratchet up the yellow/orange into the overall tones of the work.
@@VinceVenturella So since its lights the oranges and yellows would need to go into the layers and highlighted areas of the model. I'll have to experiment on what would be the best way to achieve that. You glazed the light in here to the point where its almost a Filter, so I'll have to experiment with that. Thank you Vince!
Edit: Equally tinting the not-lit side blue would be the right thing to do, correct? Blue not only is almost the exact opposite of yellow/orange, but its also the colour the eastern sky has when sunset comes around in the west.
Love how you're just stumbling into a SBG army.
It just keeps happening.
Love this video I came back for my flesh eater court army and even though I love the skin I wonder how to apply it to my army, I usually work my way up from the shadows to the highlights…😅
And all the glazes and back and forth seems quite daunting
That outro music is fire. More of that at the beginning please 😁
I'll see what I can do. :)
aaiaiaiai what a sublime video and paint job. I have many vampires and drukhari to paint. thanks for this one! I will be trying to imitate
Thank you so much 😀
Ohh I've been looking for a nice pale skin tone for my Belakor, might give this recipe a shot, thanks for an ace video.
ALways happy to help. :)
Beautiful skin tones...beautiful!
Thank you so much!
Great tutorial! While I'm currently not painting vampiric skin, tip of sketching out highlights first is useful for my NMM attempt. I'm having trouble visualising where to place light reflections (not even thinking about secondary bounces, that's out of my reach for now).
It's something you sort of pick up over time, but Kujo does have a wonderful video on it for general shapes.
Hello Vince! Another Fantastic video! I find your Radukar scheme is a blast! I am very curious also about the process you used for his armor.
The skin tutorial is just fantastic, as the final piece!
Thank you, the armor was some basic NMM steel starting from a sort of Deep Sea Blue video, I've had some earlier videos in the playlist where I talk through NMM steel.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks a lot Vince! I'll surely check it!
Vince always knows what I need. It must be dark magic rivaling that of Nagash!!
The offerings have worked then!
Fantastic work Vince!
Thanks!
Please do the that Moon-Light video. Always loved the look of sort of “effect” schemes like that.
Well, this is very much that, but I will do a video on it specifically at some point for sure. :)
I’m sure it’s just years of practice, but I’m always amazed with how quick Vince can make minis look amazing. I’m less than a year into the hobby and am really struggling with making minis look clean. They just come out so messy.
Anyone have any additional Vince video recommendations? I’m working on a shirtless barbarian from black sun miniatures now. My glazed just don’t seem to come out smooth. Tried both more and less dilution, more and less moister. It always seems to come out spotty.
So I have my videos on glazing - ruclips.net/video/N88NtHNmz1Q/видео.html
Here is a video on paint dilution - ruclips.net/video/TbCtUYFwFWQ/видео.html
Here is a skin tone video with those techniques in play - ruclips.net/video/N8rmdUPxhUI/видео.html
Here is an old one, on pink skin - ruclips.net/video/iUFnyLL7cSY/видео.html
Hope those all help.
love that base on him and without his stupid lil minions.
Yeah, the little guys are too much.
Great to see more channel growth, congrats. And exactly the right Video I've been waiting from you. Got some in the shelf I'm looking Forward to after the Warcry Tome of Champions 2021 😁
Awesome!
This was very helpful! Thank you.
One of my favorite topics!
We all love the vampires!
Timing could have not been better, starting my SBG painting now ! Thanks
Awesome. :)
Hey Vince. I've been giving some thought to the discontinuity in the colour wheel, between warm reds such as your cadmiums, and the cool reds like the alizarins and magentas. Everyone knows red and blue mixes to make purple, except that's just not true: it makes plum brown.
If you tried glazing with a cadmium based red, I feel that this wouldn't work, you'd start to get a muddy effect. I assume red violet is possibly a quinacridone based pigment?
Are there other discontinuities in the colour wheel like this? I assume in the case of red to magenta, it's because of the discontinuity in wavelengths of light absorbed and reflected, but maybe other pigments misbehave in the same way? Like cadmium yellows mixed in with blues also get a little muddy and don't make a vibrant green like lemon yellow does?
Hmm, I wonder if the problem here is that cadmium red and yellow are actually hues mixed from other PR / PY pigments? Maybe it's my cadmium hue paints that are misbehaving?
say what? :D
My honest answer is I am not sure I don't normally worry about it too much. In this case, I tend to use magentas because they just generally work better in this way, but I've seen people use more traditional reds in the same way, often inks, so it could just be the paint construction more than anything else.
Hey there. Might be able to help here so apologies for the gate crash since Vince isn’t sure
First is whether you’re talking about actual cadmium’s vs hues
Secondly it doesn’t really matter too much. But whether cad is cad yellow light. Or deep. Or mid does affect the hue a lot.
All colours kind of tilt toward another one of the primaries and it’s that what influences whether they make violets vs plums kind of thing. Or. Types of greens.
Let’s stick with greens as it’s the same thinking for purples.
Lemon yellow is usually (because lemon yellow varies amongst manufacturers and mediums ) yellow that tilts towards blue, I.e. green on the colour wheel. You also get yellows that tilt towards red, and so are more orange or egg yolk.
This is often referred to as cold toned. Warm toned. Safety vest vs egg yolk is my thinking.
But there’s more !
Blues all tilt towards either yellow or red.
Usually known as green toned vs red toned. Why it’s not yellow vs red or green vs purple I don’t know. But commonly that’s how it’s known.
Ultramarine blue (as in the real pigment pb29 I think) is a red toned blue.
Pthalo Blue green shade Is a very green based blue.
When you mix paint to make green, you’re not just mixing blue and yellow, you’re also mixing their tints.
So if you mix a red toned blue and a red toned yellow, you just mixed red, blue, yellow to get your green. And now it’s muddy and not bright.
Because you added a lot of red/orange to your green
If you mix a green toned yellow and a green toned blue, now you’re adding no red and you get a real crisp bright green.
Purple works the same way. Red (purple) toned blue added to a blue (purple) toned red - bright vibrant violet / purple
Don’t add green to your purple mixes via the tint and all is sorted.
@@malkcontent thanks for a very detailed and well considered reply! Yes, I used to think about colours in terms of primaries and secondaries: it's very difficult not to when you've been taught that way your whole life since school.
But, try this: add a little bit of (pure pigment) quinac magenta to pthalo green. If you add the right amount, you'll get a dark blue much like Prussian blue. It's not a muddy blue, it's a strong dark blue. Add more magenta, and you move towards diox purple. Again, a dark purple, but certainly not muddy. Red plus green should equal brown, but that's not what we get with a cold red plus a cold green.
So, circling back to your first question: since mini paints never give us their pigment recipes, I can only assume my mini paint reds are a blend, as is my cad red hue oil paint.
So, I think you're right, it's a problem of blends vs single pigment paints tending towards mud when mixed.
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
Thanks!
Thanks for the video Vince! I actually sketched … poorly? Basically my whole model become purple and blue but I had to slowly creep all the way back. At the end I learned a lot from this and how to better blend colors. Appreciate it.
Glad I could help!
@@VinceVenturella thanks again!! They showed my model on warhammer hobbyroundup show on twitch!!!
Nice, thanks Vince. I was wanting a blue skin tutorial, alive but I think I get the principles to use. This time you've switched around the heat colours for use with the undead; warm shadow and cold highlights. Are you going to be doing an Army Painter Speed Paint review at some point?
At some point, I have to wait for them to release, they didn't send me any, but I will do a review.
Hi Vince! You mentioned blue grey would be a good starting point for caucassian flesh in a Moonlight environment. In that case Will you just change Violet for a flesh like bugmans glow? Thanks!
You could move to that, but you might want it a little more desaturated.
Excellent video! But my question is, what would be Vallejo or Citadel equivalents to the Scale 75 paints you used in this video, so as to get a close match? My mixing skills aren't quite up to your level yet.
I couldn't tell you exactly, but for the most part, anything that looks close to these colors is fine (grey/whites, the blues, purples, etc.)
Really enjoy watching these videos…..even though they are way above my level lol!
Glad to hear it! and hey, something to build toward, we're all on the journey. :)
Right when I am about to paint my Soulblight vampires. I am wondering if instead of of purple, a dark red can be used.
You can, it will make it feel more alive.
Any advice for doing an "in between" vampire palette? Thinking specifically something like a Blood Angel, but also have some fantasy figures this would apply to. In other words - maybe some warmth without making it too clashing?
Last time I tried this it kinda looked greenish :) Wasn't aiming for a follower of Nurgle.
Just integrate a little more traditional skin tone of whatever ethnicity you're painting. If you're talking caucasian, then you are wanting a little more pink/orange in the mix to bring in a little more life.
Could I apply the thin purple glaze after I've painted my skin tone? I'm painting a bust of a devilish creature and though I'm happy with the blends on the skin I think I've made it come out too human and I want to knock it back to be a bit cooler. I was thinking of glazing over with a very thin purple ink or wash to try and counteract some of the orange in the citadel flesh tones that I've used.
Yes, absolutely
A little side question
If i wanted to paint some visible veins in skin either at the temple or at the back of the hand.
What colors should i use?
I have seen some guides using a blue color similar to Vallejo´s game air magic blue, while others use a red color which is then glazed over with a bluish color.
So how would you paint it?
I would use the straight blue and then glaze over the top.
If I were doing albino skin, would I just use warmer colours in this recipe rather than the colder blues you used … while keeping the white aspects similar?
Yes, absolutely - you've got it exactly.
Just tried this on the very much smaller Isabella Von Carstein model and found it incredibly difficult. Would you recommend different methodology for smaller mini's, or do I just need to hone the technique? Cheers!
There is certainly practice here, these types of paint jobs are always a difficult balance, but it's tougher when you have less skin like that model as well, so don't feel bad at all.
This reminds me, still need to order the skull kit from GW.
It's gotten a lot of use from me.
Vince you are amazing teacher. Can you please tell me how long does it takes to finish only skin on this mini. Thanks!
So the skin on him was probably about 6 hours or so, not too bad for a centerpiece figure like this.
What did you use for your zenithal? I just tried a wash over a black primer/white ink zenithal that dried for a few hours and the ink just washed right off. Maybe it just needed to dry for longer?
So you have to be careful as some inks will reactivate. It can be a part of a the inks or the humidity. One way to make sure that doesn't happen is a quick coat of varnish after the ink.
Hey ! how did you do your base ? i don't see how you got this result i m looking for ;) great video keep em going !
It was just some grit, cork and various dry brushes and washes. It was very much like this video - ruclips.net/video/fGqZyekEcIo/видео.html
@@VinceVenturella thanks ;) !
At the beginning you said you used a purple as a warm undertone however later in the video you say the purple is a cold color could you explain when a purple is cold or warm?
It's cold when it's blue infused, and warm when it's red infused (i.e. which one of those two colors does it lean toward).
Hi Vince, just stumbled upon this video while researching vampiric skin. Thanks for the video, it was great help! I have a question though: Do you have a tutorial/guide or ideas on how to paint non-caucasian skin vampiric? E.g. Dark Skin
You just shift some of the shadows and mid-tones to brown and pruple, but same otherwise.
Still not convinced Vince isn't actually a magician who specialises in paint magic.
Pretty sure those are actually focal wands and not brushes at all.
I mean...Look at my little cartoon guy, just saying, ;)
@@VinceVenturella the truth was in front of us all along!
if you went for a purple armor, would you swap the color and put a dark green to light blue purple to make more contrast to the skin vs armor?
You could, don't have to, but it could be in a slightly different purple tone as well.
@@VinceVenturellathanks , ill look for something that differs from candy magenta , thank you kindly , and your tutorials are rad.
Great video, could I please ask how you did the eyes/what paints you used?
Just a near white and then a saturated red ink over the top. Simple and effective. :)
@@VinceVenturella thank you 🙏
you are using a citadel shade in the beginning, which one is that?
Drakenhof nightshade.
Hey Vince! Vampires/ the undead are the main focus of my hobby and I'm wondering if you have any ideas for a problem I've been having. I would like to make vampires with different ethnic backgrounds but have had a hard time getting the pallid/dead flesh look to work with anything not based on a Caucasian scheme. Do you have any ideas or suggestions? (TL;DR tips for painting not white vampires)
Sure, the answer is basically, you're incorporating the grey/white into the mid and high tones, so if you consider an african skin tone, you can do the same thing as here, you can have the normal brown skin tone in the low-mids and purple shadows, but then you are highlighting more with a grey brown for more of the deathly aspect.
I've seen mixing your own flesh tones work like this; Caucasian is orange + white, African is orange + black (both with a little blue). As Vince was saying, you're basically trying to rip the orange out of it, so instead of a white pale skin you'd end up with a very dark slightly bluish skin. However, while that might be "realistic", it's not necessarily going to read the way you like, so I do think I'd exercise some artistic discretion and maybe keep a bit of the brown like Vince suggested.
This video should have more views
I apprecaite that, as long as people watching are drawing value, I'm happy. :)
Vince! Whenever I glaze my lighter tones... they always have a chalky look. What am I doing wrong?
It takes a pigment rich paint to glaze light colors and it will show if it's over darker colors. So my advice is two fold. First, just don't glaze light tones whenever you can avoid it, instead, layer them and glaze down with your mid-low tones. My next advice is use a medium to thin them instead of water. That can help keep the pigment evenly distributed as opposed to breaking up with too much solvent (water).
@@VinceVenturellaawesome thanks. I will try both!
This was a fantastic tutorial. One thing I've been trying to figure out is how to paint vampiric skin on an individual that was dark skinned. Most off-white vampiric does read as a light skinned individual turned vampire. How would you recommend building up a pale Vampiric effect to flesh that "was" dark in the characters life? So far all I can think are smaller highlights and more purple in to the midtones.
Sure, the answer is basically, you're incorporating the grey/white into the mid and high tones, so if you consider an african skin tone, you can do the same thing as here, you can have the normal brown skin tone in the low-mids and purple shadows, but then you are highlighting more with a grey brown for more of the deathly aspect.
@@VinceVenturella awesome, thank you so much. I'm relatively Green around the gills and have been focusing more on brush work and technique over colour theory so thank you so much for this reply.
You said that the miscatonic grey was a color you hadn't used up to a certain point during the painting.
I'm not sure if youve answered this question in other hobby cheating videos, (apologies if you have.) But do you preplan every color that goes on to the miniature, or do you pick colors sort of on feeling? like the miscatonic(Almost certain I'm miss spelling that🤤) grey addition.
Thanks for sharing an astounding amount of knowledge with us by the way 😊.
I get a selection of colors out I think I will use and order them from shadow to highlight. I don't always use all of them, and sometimes I add one in later. It's more I have a rough idea of the road I'm driving, but I might make stops along the way.
@@VinceVenturella I'll be sure to try that, I'm normally a mess and just pick colors almost randomly as I'm painting. Might explain why my paint jobs look kinda bad at the end 😊.
Qqyou mentioned "moonlit" models... are we going to get a video on that?
I mean, you're basically looking at it. :) - BUt I may do something specifically on it (the key being the desaturation, warm shadows, cold highlights, influence of blue and grey).
Vince, thanks for another gem, but can I maybe suggest that you reevaluate your sound level? Overall it is quite low and the difference between intro and video is quite noticable. Thanks for doing these!
Been working more on sound, you should see some changes soon.
could you please list the colors which you use in order pls ?
So the paint list is in the front. I generally now try to list them as I am using them, but most should be fairly obvious. :)
How wold you paint Vampiric Skin with a Zorn pallat/grim dark stile?
You'd need the expanded palette with the cold tones likely to really make it work, or just use the black/yellow into the white to get something more jaundiced and sickly.
@@VinceVenturella am planing a undead mordheim warband in zorn pallat, and adding blue-green for the magic. but might have to ad a come cold tones for the skin
Great video Vince, unrelated question but what is your most prized trophies or awards for miniature painting?
I have two crystal brushes, and I certainly value those a great deal (as it doesn't exist now). It's likely the Gen-Con Best in Show. I made an oath to myself one year to win Best in Show within 5 years and I got it the 3rd year from that, which really was an amazing and wonderful day.
@@VinceVenturella That's amazing, maybe one day with your tutorials as help ill get my first trophy. I need to enter a competition though first lol. I was planning on going to one next month but life has got in the way, as it does.
Do you have a written list of paints used?
It's in the video at 0:21 seconds in.
How the hell did I miss that!
Sorry
Great video, what miniature is that?
Radikar the Beast from Games Workshop
Sorry, who is this figure, tried searching Chattagah, etc and couldn’t find him. Please put me out of my misery. Love this tutorial!.
He is Radakar the Beast (colloquially called Chadakar) from Games Workshop.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you Vince, much appreciated 🙏. Time to go shopping 😄.
I like how you pause to say it looks like crap it it would be my personal master piece lol
Camera always makes it look better to others than it does in person. :)
He’s built like a wolf, he would still use stealth to kill.
Lol we gotta keep the ornj out.
This isn't helping me not buy the Underworlds Crimson Court. Thaaaaaaanks :)
I mean...they are awesome models.