Lowprofile DTI holder - Part 2
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 4 ноя 2023
- Link to the drawing on Patreon (Free to access):
/ low-profile-dti-90933448
Part 1:
• Lowprofile DTI holder ...
Visit my website for FAQ, a list of my machines, my products and some project documentations:
gtwr.de/
Consider supporting me on Patreon:
/ stefangtwr
I post very regular on Instagram:
/ stefan_gtwr
#practitioner_of_the_mechanical_arts 
Наука
Stefan, I’m always impressed with your gift of teaching. Explaining in detail why and how you approach each design decision. Lots of tricks in every episode. Thank you!
Today's words of wisdom: "You can't cut yourself in CAD."
There, the pain is emotional
Hold my beer...
😂
The box cutters used for cardboard aided design are sharp.
... but you can cut corners, though you shouldn't 🤔
That squaring technique at 14:30... very clever. Someone had their thinking cap on that day.
I 3D printed this instead of machining from metal and it worked very well! Thanks for sharing your design. The only real change I needed to make was the angle of the dovetail slot to match my dial indicator.
Thanks Stefan. I already have the drawings but I'll probably make mine from aluminium, anodised of course.😊
I know quite well it's the point, but listening to that indicator noise during your rant made me wince instantly.
The #1 most important machinst tool: the Mk1 eyeball! Thanks for demonstrating it, Stefan! ⭐🙂👍
Great video, I completed my holder and I am very happy with it. I made mine from brass and aluminium and its fine for my hobby machining. Thank you for posting the plans
I made one tòo, but am adding a fine adjust screw, just because I could.
@@chrisstephens6673getting fancy with it
Very excellent. And "today I feel like milling". I know what you mean. Thanks again Stefan!
I'll be making one of these. But with an adjustment screw to move the dti along the slot. Thanks for your work and inspiration.
Amazing tool that solves many issues I have found with height and offset problems . Thank you Stefan . You are an inspiration to so many people who love the detail. Cheers Ade.
Cool idea on the marker and yes - I think about EMP/Solar flares too.
Fantastic squaring up technique. Every day is a school day. I also learned that cat food makes effective cutting fluid.
Great video as ever. Many thanks.
😂
WOW! Love the precision.Thanks for the look Stefan.
I started wondering what you were on about but when you showed this compared to that long junk indicator things made a lot of sense.
Great practical design. This will be most beneficial to small milling machine users which are verti ally challenged 😁.
Many thanks to Stefan for generously sharing his plans.
Thank you Stefan for the two part build and access to the drawings. 👍👍
Very enjoyable watch took me two coffees and delayed my heavy Springtime gardening 😁
I don't use a Heimer on a manual mill, but it's nice on a big CNC router, when the operator's console is 2 meters from the spindle. You can see it from that distance.
Seeing your two-step method for squaring the fifth face was worth the price of admission.
Excellent way to top off a weekend. Much appreciated.
Interesting take on this measuring issue.
I do have a Heimer and it does work well. I suppose everyone has their own quirks with measuring equipment.
Absolutely a very personal thing, if it works for you, who would I be to tell you to not use it :-D
Enjoyed your discussion/demonstration/build along with your continued mentorship
Awesome build Stefan, love how compact it is, and the fitment of all the parts is chefs kiss :)
Man, I said it before and I'll say it again: Just love your manual work! Thanks.
Thank you Stefan . This will help me out so much with my bench top mill . Started the build today . You are a legend for sharing the drawings . I don't have heat treat option so I will make the body from D2 and the holder from brass or bronze . Love it . Cheers and Happy new Year . Ade.
I'm going to have to build one of these! It's good to hear you rant about the Haimer indicator. I came to pretty much the same conclusion. Thanks for sharing.
Excellent, many thanks for the effort to film, edit, share!
Super cool video as usual, thanks Stephan
Well done Stefan and thanks for sharing.
great tool I have started to make one of these for my shop thank you for sharing with us.
👍🏻👍🏻
Awesome design! This is the first time I was compelled to download the drawings, and I've watched a fare amount of maker videos.
I justify my manual machine hoarding too by using the solar flare analogy. "Sorry, I can't get rid of this 1950s lathe; it's my post-apocalyptic survival kit!"
So much great information in this, thank you!!
Great video,Stefan.Thank you.
All tools have there uses, this one is great and many uses, nice job.
I agree with you Stefan, the 1/4” endmill is the most versatile endmill out there! 😂😂😂😂🎉🎉🎉
Very nice.. I like the ball or knob addition.
What a lovely craft ❤
You have an exquisite method to you're madness... I love that little mill, I wish I could get my hands on one here in Alberta, Canada..... CHEERS
We are all looking forward to Pt.2. Thank you👍👌🇦🇺
Thank you for a great, informative video!
Super cool squaring technique, I love you man!
Roger from Calgary.
very god job stefan..thanks for your time
Just SUPER !! thank you !!! best regards Steve
Agree completely re the Haimer! I gave up centering it, and ended up making a deviation table for X-Y probing, but then only use it for rough work.
Nice project. Your English is very good too.
Thank you!
I do have a coaxial indicator and have used it just twice in about ten years: once for aligning a fabricated cylinder block (whose bores were for pumping mashed potato, in a machine for putting swirly topping on little mince meat savoury pies) for boring.
This required reaching deep down the rather small bores (which were not straight, not constant diameter, not truly circular and not strictly parallel to each other) and plotting the coordinates at the four quadrature points for each measurement station of each bore in order to arrive at a mean axis for all the bores.
I had to do this to average the indidual mean bores and attach two datum origins to the fabrication so to be able to reorient the whole block so the bores would all clean up parallel to each other with the least possible material removal.
My smallest indicator barely fitted in the bore, and the dial was facing the wall, not the opening, so I would have needed to buy a remote reading miniature probe. As the required accuracy was not high, the coaxial indicator (which come with long straight probes in addition to the more often used curved ones) was ideal and very easy to manipulate.
The second time was just a week or two ago. I used it to centre, in a four jaw independent chuck in a big lathe, a large fabrication which was going to require a steady for security, and hence the job could not safely be rotated for clocking up. I had to reach inside the hollow workpiece to true up an internal feature some distance from the opening. To do it with a DTI would have required mirrors and battery lights and rigging up some way of rotating the indicator truly, and without axial displacement, about the tailstock taper bore. The coaxial indicator, once again, was of suitable accuracy for the not very tighly toleranced machining operation, and was exactly suited for the job.
As I wrote the description above, I recalled a dodge I have used in the past for "rigging up some way of rotating an item truly, and without axial displacement, about the tailstock taper bore."
It involved cutting the tang off the drill chuck taper shank, and retracting the tailstock until the ejector pin forces the taper to JUST release, and putting heavy way oil on the shank, makes an taper thrust bearing with radial play adjustable to effectively zero.
I forget what I was doing. Possibly, power tapping a thread which needed to bottom out in a blind hole. (I now have a purpose built way of safely and conveniently doing this, which works up to about M24 in my biggest lathe provided I use serial taps)
Thank you Stefan!
Very very nice Tool thanks for the video
Excellent Video
The Haimer thingy seems like it would be great on a horizontal boring mill or other large machine where the parts are not usually held to micron tolerance. Nevertheless less many of us do not do work on the HBM. I use a combo of the rotating springy edge finder and I use the DTI to center up on bores and on occasion to find the edge. Nevertheless, I like the design and might build one some day when I have nothing better to attend to and get in the tool building mode. It happens now and then! Cheers
Thanks Stefan, as you know I appreciate your cerebral video content! 👍
Thank you very much :)
Beautiful work Stefan! Did part 1 and 2 back to back. I'm guessing we will be seeing this tool often; it just looks too useful not to see frequent use.
“That’s my 50 cents.” covers inflation very nicely.
Very cool little instrument!
I would like to have seen how some adjustments were made but your hand was in the way each time.
Anyway, I love the innovation! 😊
Excellent
Sorry you had to scrap a part.... ! But thanks for doing the work with a camera, so the we can come along for the ride and LEARN.... Good Work!!
Could you turn the handle into a set screw for the eccentric shaft? That seems like it'd solve the access to the screw issue that you're having.
Neat project. I love seeing stuff like this.
to match the 12 deg ish angle I'd use the DTI as a angle block in the vise and machine the flat in the dovetail orientation as well. Just lazy me.
THANKS FOR MAKING - as usual !
Very good option too, yep!
Fine tool. 1 remark: I use a fine needle wire bruch (mounted on a bench grinder) to debure all corners
"super simple plates with holes. We have enough of that engineering." I feel seen. XD
When i grew up i want to be like Stefan
i might not be a good role model :D
Great video thanks!
Totally agree with your rant about the Haimer. Adjusting runout on them is very touchy and they don't stay calibrated. The Tschorn 3D tester is somewhat better, but still difficult to adjust runout, and takes a lot of Z-height.
The man who never made a mistake, never made anything !,,,,,No worries, theres plenty of time.
“It’s not a very precision feature, but it’s within .0001 micron”
Another perfect Saturday afternoon spent in the company of Stefan. Where did the last hour and a quarter go? Flew by for me - completely engrossed.
Thank you again for all the shop tips/knowledge you disseminate on your channel. RUclips would suck without you.
Stefan I have seen engravers mount the vise to old bowling ball and place the ball in center of small unmounted tire of the tube type from garden equipment.
just a thought for a potential V2 of this, instead of using a bolt at the bottom to clamp the eccentric shaft, make another split cut in line with the DTI, that way all your clamping adjustments are on the side and you avoid the obstruction problems when adjusting for center line.
moderndaytinker here
I see you haven't gotten yourself a hand held demagnetizer yet.😮
Very handy , and they don't over magnetize the tools, as your big bench one sometimes can.(if you aren't careful when pulling it away)
Ohh, Gotteswinter inspired ball vice. Count me in!
If a solar flar hit my shop I could still do my work .lol 😊
Stefan: The trick I thought you were going to show us to deal with the situation at 11:48 is perhaps one you've mentioned another time, but in case you haven't, here goes: I quite often find I can hold a part like this (ie, where adjacent sides of the rectangle are not too unequal in length) between two V blocks of suitable size, stood on end with one end face (of at least one block) butted against the floor of the vice workspace.
The blocks don't need to be the same size, and if they are, they don't need to be using the same size V .
In case this description is confusing, the sides of the part, viewed from above, will all be at 45 degrees to the clamping faces of the vice jaws (which is not important), but (and this IS important) those same faces will all be vertical thanks to the precision of the end-grinding op when the V blocks were made, so the top end of the workpiece can now be facemilled and be squared-off as a result.
If the vice workspace does not have a flat floor in the right location for aligning the V blocks, I choose a thin parallel of the right size to lay on its side across the gap.
Looking at the final design, and how you use it, you could shave off 3-5mm in hight, and make it even slimmer. other than that, great work, I'll make two for myself now
Awesome stuff Captain. I am for sure going to try and make one. Any chance on a CAD model for this bad boy?
I think a rack & pinion fine adjustment would be a neat addition to mk2
flexture would make more sense if you don't need a lot of travel
Beautiful work as always - would version 2.1 have a worm-drive adjustment for the eccentric? 😄
Btw i really love the sprinkling of shop knowledge throughout a practical video, very cool. 👌🏻
You could use a captive grub screw as a worm gear for adjusting the eccentricity
That is a VERY NEAT idea! And the correct sized tap as a hob for the wheel. Thanks!
For the vise project, perhaps a kugelhantel would be a convenient piece of rough stock?
Instead of an ancient cannon ball, how about a gym weight? They have ball weights that are made of cast iron.
looks good, and for the ball vise you were talking about, why not use a dumbell as a rough blank vs an old cannon ball?
Maybe as a alternative to an ancient cannon ball you can use a throwing weight used by shot put guys?
"I could save the world with a 6mm end mill..."
Stefan, the knurled knob is begging for a pinion to mate with a rack in the slide much like that on a microscope focus. Just to make it more complicated. :)
The more rigid the more confidence I have.
Thanks Stephan. Excellent... Just slightly worried that the excentric pin will turn unintentionally over time especially if the machine spindle is stiff to rotate ? Thanks again 🇬🇧
I snapped a Starrett fine center punch doing that exact thing with a parallel jaw clamp. Hurt to see that.
How do you like the Garant Xtric 80s vise?
Any videos of the Erowa style ITS workholding in the future.
if we ever get struck with a solar flare, I want you as my machinist!
Stefan, for a fine adjust could you bore the handle stud right through so a threaded bar bears on the dovetail clamp, ie twist the handle to fine adjust
Hi Stefan. Thank you for your opinion on the Haimer 3D tester. I was kinda wanting one but not anymore 😅. I have a Haimer coaxial indicator the Haimer centro its a very well made tool. I like it a lot. What is your opinion of these Centricator type centering tools?
When you grinding to size, are you measuring the part prior to touch off, then grinding off the difference. Or, do you have some way of offsetting from the chuck face?
nice
Very nice project again, but I always thought that the final touch was the maker's mark with the year engraved, but when the pantograph down the road it was the end of that era, what a shame.
Making mistakes is very understandable being your filming, machining a complex part using manual machines and narrating it all at the same time. I can barely walk and chew gum at the same time!
How about a knurled knob for the shank screw as well as a knurled flange on the shank for adjustment. I imagine you'd be able to adjust with one hand.
Nice work! Are those Pferd files that you use?
I liked this video very much and I would love to see how this peace looks wen it,s back fome plasma nitride. 😊
I will do a quick followup video when the parts are back :-)
Great tool. Fantastic content as always. I’m curious why you recommend two different diameters of edge finders? I almost never use my larger diameter edge finder.
Thats mostly for reach and when I am to lazy to change collets :)