You have really hit the mark with this video. So much useful information. It is just what I was looking for. I also love your style of painting so perfect and delicate. Thank you again for this video. All the best to you 🎨
Yes! I'm actually filming something right now. But it's really big project and something I've never painted before, so it may be a little while before the video is ready. But hopefully soon I can start editing once the painting is done!
This is the most useful lesson for me as a beginner in drawing birds with acrylic. Those fine lines on the wings were simply impossible. Will start practicing with thin paint and point brushes
I'm glad that it's been so helpful! Yes, definitely try it this way and give it lots of practice. I hope it will give you great results for your bird paintings!
I didn’t realize you had a RUclips channel! Allan and I (Adrienne) just watched your video, it was super interesting! I didn’t realize you didn’t use canvas but it makes sense with the exquisite detail you put into your paintings
Thanks Adrienne!! Glad you found my channel! Yea, it was fun to share some of my materials that I use to paint. I discovered a technique for painting on board when I was a teenager, and have used it ever since!!
Very nicely explained. I think i see what my problem is. I use the paint to thick. Am afraid to add water cause then it becomes to too thin for me. But it becomes difficult to work with and dries up in clumps. Your mix like thick ink seems perfect to work with. I'd rather learn your method and work in layers. Seems to give a better control. Subbed. Cheers.
Thank you!! Appreciate that! Yes, I do find I have much better control over the paint if it's thinned out with water. It does mean using more layers, but for a lot things I do I like being able to slowly build up the paint and it can have a very effective look for things like rocks and water. And there's definitely a balance between it being too thin or too thick, but that just takes some experimentation to see what works best for the substrate you paint on, your style, and the look you want to achieve. Glad this was helpful!!
I usually get my brushes at a local art store in my city or at Michaels if they have the higher quality brushes I want. As for my easel, it's just the top of an old drawing desk I had when I was young, then just attached some legs to it so I could lean against the wall. Saves a bit of space and it can hold very large paintings!
You're welcome! As for varnishing brushes - for me it depends on the varnish. For a fast drying water based varnish I tend to use the same brush for all painting sizes - a Royal and Langnickel flat 40. If I'm using a solvent based varnish that doesn't dry as fast, I use a large 3 inch brush with soft synthetic bristles so that I can move the varnish around quickly and cover a large painting while the varnish is still wet, to get that nice even sheen. I want to make a video about using a solvent based varnish, but I just need a bit more practice at it so I can give proper instruction.
This video is amazing and so interesting, thank you. I would be interested to know if you prime both sides and what you would recommend as an alternative to the Masonite board, I dont have a lumberyard close and wouldn’t trust ordering online as it might not be good quality.
You're welcome, and thank you! I don't prime both sides with the gesso, but I do put 2 layers of acrylic medium on both sides (plus the edges) to seal the board before priming. I'm going to make a more detailed video about how I prepare these boards in the near future. As for alternatives, you may be able to achieve a similar effect with canvas boards, though I'm not sure how it would handle more layers of gesso - it may have some cracking over time. Some art suppliers sell panels made of birch with a wood frame on the back like a canvas, but your surface is a thin piece of birch wood. Those are probably even more sturdy than what I'm using and if they come from an art supplier they should good enough quality for artwork. I would still recommend covering all sides with an acrylic medium or artist grade sealer before you gesso and sand smooth, just to make sure it's sealed from moisture getting in. I apologize that I don't know of more alternatives, but hopefully this is a good place to start!
That’s really interesting thank you. I’m in the U.K. and have Jackson’s art which is brilliant for art materials but unfortunately they have a little too much to choose from. I currently use mdf (small sizes) and plywood board but they get a bit heavy and the latter only available in a 5mm, I do gesso them to a smooth surface but never sealed them so might start doing that for extra security. Thank you for the answer and I look forward to your future videos.
Ok just ask about a video on brushes a others thing you use and I found it. I’m a beginner, a disabled veteran that is now in a wheelchair ( not complaining just explaining how I took up painting) it’s something I enjoy while I sit on my, well you can figure out the rest. Thank you again.
You're welcome! I'm glad that my videos have been helpful. I've got more on the way and hopefully those will be helpful as well. And if you do have more questions let me know and I'll do my best to answer them! Thank you for watching!
Hi! Fellow Canadian here. Just discovered your channel. Very nice review of your paints and brushes. Have you tried the Liquitex Soft Bodied acrylics? If so just curious how you like them vs the heavy bodied ones for the type of work you do? Thanks very much!
Thank you! I've only used the soft body paints a little bit, and I did like them for being a bit easier and faster to mix. But I don't often use my paint quite that thin, until I get down to finer details. With the heavy body acrylics, I like the strength of the pigment, and the more opaque coverage I can get - especially when painting solid colour or gradient backgrounds and I only have to do one or two layers. I've been considering adding a more fluid paint to my palette, like a titanium white to use in some of my winter scenes. But that would be more so to save time, where constantly having to thin down the white paint for a large winter painting becomes a bit tedious.
Thankyou very much for your detailed reply. I had always assumed the heavy bodied paints would be too hard to get thin strokes and detail with but obviously you get marvellous results with them. Years ago I used Grumbacher “Hyplar” acrylics which I really liked. I suppose they were a heavier bodied paint but they thinned well and dried to a semi-gloss finish which I think helped in shading layer over layer. Canadian Wildlife Artist Ron Parker also used to use them. Of course they don’t make them any longer. I enjoy the soft bodied Liquitex acrylics but they dry pretty flat and perhaps because of their greater opacity, sometimes I find blending a bit difficult. I can mix with a Matt medium to increase transparency but that introduces more variables. So I need to give the heavy bodied paints a try I think. Yes perhaps more time thinning but perhaps more tonal control and blending finesse in the end? I’ve seen many people on line using the cheaper Liquitex Basics line to great effect as well. From what I gather they are a “medium bodied” paint that might be a bit easier to mix than heavy bodied and yet still provide more blendability with their semi-transparency over the soft bodied. We will see I guess. 😊
You're welcome! I'm always happy to share. And when I was starting out, I used the Liquitex basics for years and got really good results from them. They are a medium bodied paint and so yes, easier to mix, but I eventually wanted some richer colours and a much better ability to do layers and shading etc. Something that worked well with the heavy bodied acrylics. I can also get those colours to pop a bit more with a coat of varnish. Something that might be able to help with the flat look of the soft body paints. Hopefully some good experimenting will give you some great results!
Very useful Joseph, as all your videos are. Have you tried aluminium dibond - I've used it with oil pastels on an acrylic gesso ground fairly successfully.
Thank you Geoff! I haven't tried anything like the aluminium dibond, but that does sound like it would work well. And probably be even more sturdy than the masonite I use. I'll have to look at that and maybe try experimenting with it.
I haven't done many fonts before, but I think that doing the outline would be best, and then filling the middle. As for brushes I would experiment with and angled flat brush. I think that would help with sharp edges and corners on your letters. But depending on the font you are painting, a liner brush could also be useful. Experiment and see what kind of results you can get!
To help prevent damage in the long term, it's important to seal the board with something that puts a protective layer between the wood and the paint. After the sealer, I then put many layers of gesso. I like painting on boards since they are very sturdy, and I have paintings that I've done that are more than 20 yrs old, and they look as good as they did when I painted them!
Seems like you’re mixing in a fair amount of water in with your paint. Have you had any issues with cracking as your paintings age? I’ve heard (from other folks on RUclips, admittedly) that cracking can be an issue if you dilute the binder in the paint with water (as opposed to a medium).
I've heard and read about the same thing when it comes to thinning acrylics and some cracking issues. I haven't experienced that myself with any of my work, even looking back at things I painted over 20 years ago in the same way. I do wonder if that has something to do with the substrate that I paint on. Since I paint on board, it's very rigid and won't flex or change shape as much as canvas over time. Having said that, there is something to be said about breaking down the acrylic polymers too much and keeping that in mind while painting. In my case, I like the texture and consistency of the paint when mixed with water, and it mostly comes down to personal preference. And though it is quite a bit of water, these heavy body acrylics seem to handle it pretty well.
Man have you ever tried to put brushes that lost its point into hair wax? Apperantely this helps putting them back into position. Your artwork is gorgeous keep it up!
Thank you so much!! I haven't ever tried that before, but that sounds like a great idea. I certainly go through my fair share of brushes, and this would be helpful. Thanks for the tip!!
I'm just using ceramic plates, but you can use any number of things. Some people use glass with a neutral gray card underneath. And for acrylics there are also stay wet palettes that can be very effective at keeping acrylic paint wet for long periods of time.
I don't understand why you don't have more followers. Your tutorials are great.
Thank you! I have many plans for more videos and hopefully it will grow from there!
You have really hit the mark with this video. So much useful information. It is just what I was looking for. I also love your style of painting so perfect and delicate. Thank you again for this video. All the best to you 🎨
Thank you!! I'm so glad this was informative and helpful!
Are you going to be making more painting videos? Love your style and would love to learn how paint the way you do. ❤
Yes! I'm actually filming something right now. But it's really big project and something I've never painted before, so it may be a little while before the video is ready. But hopefully soon I can start editing once the painting is done!
Thank you Joseph. Your information is so very helpful.
You're welcome!! Glad that it was helpful!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge which comes from trial and practice! This video is just what I needed to see!
You're welcome!! I'm happy to share this knowledge and I'm glad this video was helpful!
This is the most useful lesson for me as a beginner in drawing birds with acrylic. Those fine lines on the wings were simply impossible. Will start practicing with thin paint and point brushes
I'm glad that it's been so helpful! Yes, definitely try it this way and give it lots of practice. I hope it will give you great results for your bird paintings!
You are such a wonderful teacher, thank you!
Thank you for your video and it is helpful for me 50+ learn color . Keep up your great work.
Thank you .good job❤
informative and helpful. thanks for taking the time in making your videos
Thank you!! Glad it was helpful, I'm happy to share!
Mind-blowing..❤
So talented!
Thank you for this great video. I cannot wait to start incorporating what I have learned here. Your work is stunning!
You're welcome!! Glad it was helpful! I hope it works out for your paintings!
Thanks you so much for making this video. It is so helpful! Love your work!
You're welcome!! Glad that is was helpful!!
I didn’t realize you had a RUclips channel! Allan and I (Adrienne) just watched your video, it was super interesting! I didn’t realize you didn’t use canvas but it makes sense with the exquisite detail you put into your paintings
Thanks Adrienne!! Glad you found my channel! Yea, it was fun to share some of my materials that I use to paint. I discovered a technique for painting on board when I was a teenager, and have used it ever since!!
Very nicely explained. I think i see what my problem is. I use the paint to thick. Am afraid to add water cause then it becomes to too thin for me. But it becomes difficult to work with and dries up in clumps. Your mix like thick ink seems perfect to work with.
I'd rather learn your method and work in layers. Seems to give a better control.
Subbed.
Cheers.
Thank you!! Appreciate that! Yes, I do find I have much better control over the paint if it's thinned out with water. It does mean using more layers, but for a lot things I do I like being able to slowly build up the paint and it can have a very effective look for things like rocks and water. And there's definitely a balance between it being too thin or too thick, but that just takes some experimentation to see what works best for the substrate you paint on, your style, and the look you want to achieve. Glad this was helpful!!
Love your work!!!
Thank you!!
Please do a video on your wall easel set up. Also where do you buy quality brushes ? Thanks
I usually get my brushes at a local art store in my city or at Michaels if they have the higher quality brushes I want. As for my easel, it's just the top of an old drawing desk I had when I was young, then just attached some legs to it so I could lean against the wall. Saves a bit of space and it can hold very large paintings!
Thank you for this video.
What type of brush do you use for varnishing a large acrylic painting?
You're welcome! As for varnishing brushes - for me it depends on the varnish. For a fast drying water based varnish I tend to use the same brush for all painting sizes - a Royal and Langnickel flat 40. If I'm using a solvent based varnish that doesn't dry as fast, I use a large 3 inch brush with soft synthetic bristles so that I can move the varnish around quickly and cover a large painting while the varnish is still wet, to get that nice even sheen. I want to make a video about using a solvent based varnish, but I just need a bit more practice at it so I can give proper instruction.
This video is amazing and so interesting, thank you. I would be interested to know if you prime both sides and what you would recommend as an alternative to the Masonite board, I dont have a lumberyard close and wouldn’t trust ordering online as it might not be good quality.
You're welcome, and thank you! I don't prime both sides with the gesso, but I do put 2 layers of acrylic medium on both sides (plus the edges) to seal the board before priming. I'm going to make a more detailed video about how I prepare these boards in the near future. As for alternatives, you may be able to achieve a similar effect with canvas boards, though I'm not sure how it would handle more layers of gesso - it may have some cracking over time. Some art suppliers sell panels made of birch with a wood frame on the back like a canvas, but your surface is a thin piece of birch wood. Those are probably even more sturdy than what I'm using and if they come from an art supplier they should good enough quality for artwork. I would still recommend covering all sides with an acrylic medium or artist grade sealer before you gesso and sand smooth, just to make sure it's sealed from moisture getting in. I apologize that I don't know of more alternatives, but hopefully this is a good place to start!
That’s really interesting thank you. I’m in the U.K. and have Jackson’s art which is brilliant for art materials but unfortunately they have a little too much to choose from.
I currently use mdf (small sizes) and plywood board but they get a bit heavy and the latter only available in a 5mm, I do gesso them to a smooth surface but never sealed them so might start doing that for extra security. Thank you for the answer and I look forward to your future videos.
Ok just ask about a video on brushes a others thing you use and I found it.
I’m a beginner, a disabled veteran that is now in a wheelchair ( not complaining just explaining how I took up painting) it’s something I enjoy while I sit on my, well you can figure out the rest. Thank you again.
You're welcome! I'm glad that my videos have been helpful. I've got more on the way and hopefully those will be helpful as well. And if you do have more questions let me know and I'll do my best to answer them! Thank you for watching!
Hi! Fellow Canadian here. Just discovered your channel. Very nice review of your paints and brushes.
Have you tried the Liquitex Soft Bodied acrylics? If so just curious how you like them vs the heavy bodied ones for the type of work you do? Thanks very much!
Thank you! I've only used the soft body paints a little bit, and I did like them for being a bit easier and faster to mix. But I don't often use my paint quite that thin, until I get down to finer details. With the heavy body acrylics, I like the strength of the pigment, and the more opaque coverage I can get - especially when painting solid colour or gradient backgrounds and I only have to do one or two layers. I've been considering adding a more fluid paint to my palette, like a titanium white to use in some of my winter scenes. But that would be more so to save time, where constantly having to thin down the white paint for a large winter painting becomes a bit tedious.
Thankyou very much for your detailed reply. I had always assumed the heavy bodied paints would be too hard to get thin strokes and detail with but obviously you get marvellous results with them. Years ago I used Grumbacher “Hyplar” acrylics which I really liked. I suppose they were a heavier bodied paint but they thinned well and dried to a semi-gloss finish which I think helped in shading layer over layer. Canadian Wildlife Artist Ron Parker also used to use them. Of course they don’t make them any longer.
I enjoy the soft bodied Liquitex acrylics but they dry pretty flat and perhaps because of their greater opacity, sometimes I find blending a bit difficult. I can mix with a Matt medium to increase transparency but that introduces more variables. So I need to give the heavy bodied paints a try I think. Yes perhaps more time thinning but perhaps more tonal control and blending finesse in the end? I’ve seen many people on line using the cheaper Liquitex Basics line to great effect as well. From what I gather they are a “medium bodied” paint that might be a bit easier to mix than heavy bodied and yet still provide more blendability with their semi-transparency over the soft bodied. We will see I guess. 😊
You're welcome! I'm always happy to share. And when I was starting out, I used the Liquitex basics for years and got really good results from them. They are a medium bodied paint and so yes, easier to mix, but I eventually wanted some richer colours and a much better ability to do layers and shading etc. Something that worked well with the heavy bodied acrylics. I can also get those colours to pop a bit more with a coat of varnish. Something that might be able to help with the flat look of the soft body paints. Hopefully some good experimenting will give you some great results!
Very useful Joseph, as all your videos are.
Have you tried aluminium dibond - I've used it with oil pastels on an acrylic gesso ground fairly successfully.
Thank you Geoff! I haven't tried anything like the aluminium dibond, but that does sound like it would work well. And probably be even more sturdy than the masonite I use. I'll have to look at that and maybe try experimenting with it.
Thank you! Any tips for painting fonts? Outline first and then paint inside?… what brush to use for doting letters?
I haven't done many fonts before, but I think that doing the outline would be best, and then filling the middle. As for brushes I would experiment with and angled flat brush. I think that would help with sharp edges and corners on your letters. But depending on the font you are painting, a liner brush could also be useful. Experiment and see what kind of results you can get!
If we work on bord then wate the result of long time if that have damage or something else
To help prevent damage in the long term, it's important to seal the board with something that puts a protective layer between the wood and the paint. After the sealer, I then put many layers of gesso. I like painting on boards since they are very sturdy, and I have paintings that I've done that are more than 20 yrs old, and they look as good as they did when I painted them!
Seems like you’re mixing in a fair amount of water in with your paint. Have you had any issues with cracking as your paintings age? I’ve heard (from other folks on RUclips, admittedly) that cracking can be an issue if you dilute the binder in the paint with water (as opposed to a medium).
I've heard and read about the same thing when it comes to thinning acrylics and some cracking issues. I haven't experienced that myself with any of my work, even looking back at things I painted over 20 years ago in the same way. I do wonder if that has something to do with the substrate that I paint on. Since I paint on board, it's very rigid and won't flex or change shape as much as canvas over time. Having said that, there is something to be said about breaking down the acrylic polymers too much and keeping that in mind while painting. In my case, I like the texture and consistency of the paint when mixed with water, and it mostly comes down to personal preference. And though it is quite a bit of water, these heavy body acrylics seem to handle it pretty well.
@@JosephKoensgen Have you ever tried using fluid acrylics? You wouldn't need to add so much water to get the same fluidity. Just a thought.
What size grit sandpaper do you use?
I start off with an 80 grit to get the rough spots out, then go to a 120 grit to smooth it all out.
Man have you ever tried to put brushes that lost its point into hair wax? Apperantely this helps putting them back into position.
Your artwork is gorgeous keep it up!
Thank you so much!! I haven't ever tried that before, but that sounds like a great idea. I certainly go through my fair share of brushes, and this would be helpful. Thanks for the tip!!
Where is the new stuff. U still out there? I very interested in ur videos.
I'll be coming out with some new stuff soon. I just haven't had as much time lately to make any, but I work on it when I can!
@@JosephKoensgen great I’ll look 4 ward 2 it.
Palette?
I'm just using ceramic plates, but you can use any number of things. Some people use glass with a neutral gray card underneath. And for acrylics there are also stay wet palettes that can be very effective at keeping acrylic paint wet for long periods of time.
Share the link where we can buy the Brushes
I buy my brushes at Michaels in Canada.
canada.michaels.com/en/golden-taklon-short-handle-round-brush-by-artists-loft-vienna/M10011028.html