TWO Ways to Anchor Metal Railing To Concrete!!
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- Опубликовано: 22 фев 2022
- What if your repairing railing? What if your making new rails? Today I show TWO ways you can secure railing. There are a lot more ways to do it than these but these two tips could get you out of a bind when doing a welding repair to railing or if your fabricating new railing! I hope this gives you a few more tools for your mental welding repair tool bag!
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Links to BUY!
Anchoring Epoxy -amzn.to/3H9mQ0D
Anchoring Bolts - amzn.to/3JHA5r9 
Развлечения
Another thing I use is anchoring cement from home depot/lowes. Only needs water to activate, cheap, cures FAST, looks like concrete and expands to create a tight fit. The only thing is you do not want to mix a big batch. It will set too fast. Just wanted to share some knowledge from one fabricator to another.
i had big problems with Home Depot anchoring cement . it'll keep expanding and break the concrete later. non shrink grout ,(such as Cement All ), is safer ..
@@rhapsody5876 that is crazy man I haven't had that problem but I could see how they could potentially do that if it didn't stop. I thought that it would hit a certain point of resistance and stop expanding. At least you would think it would be designed that
Yeah, I don't know how it happened , maybe it just expands too much for old brittle concrete that is too thin. but i do railings on a lot of older houses in Seattle,and it just seemed to just break things up, so i quit using it ..@@strongholdcustomfabricatio298
A lot of people mix a lot of B.S into their channel, but you really keep it to the point and relevant. Very grateful for your content!
I appreciate that!
I love my ironworker. I paid for the punching station (option) which has a L-shaped flatbar piece that is slotted=adjustable that you can lock down. You only have to center punch 1 place - on 1st piece you line that up by manually bring ironworker punch down into it, then you tighten L piece down. You punch one hole and flip over to punch the next one-butting it to inside of L piece guide. This works on bases that need 4 holes also. You CAN make a jig for a DP easily. I would start by getting a fence for it, you set that up so bit centers in material, then you just clamp a piece of FB or anything to make material stop.
Anthony you are a inspiration to welders thinking about starting a welding buiness. Because if you can do it anyone can .
This master fabricator Anthony has forgotten more then most men will ever know. He’s ELITE Status…
how back handed of you 😂
@@MeltinMetalAnthony BE SAFE BROTHER IN MOLTEN! Someday we shall cross paths. 👍🏻👊🏼👨🏼🏭
another way to fill those holes is, filling them with QUIK-ROK is very efficient and also dries very fast.
Nice video Anthony, always learning something new!!
Check out transfer punches for holes.
i just got a set of those
Front porch needs this thanks brotha
1 trick I was taught by a former fitter in our shop is to use the lower section of your welpers to hold any stamps or center punches, gives more visibility when lining up stamps especially
Hey hey!
(Hi from Germany btw!!!)
We (my company) had to do the exact same stuff because a big truck smashed the fence
It's a bit complicated to explain but in general we had to renew some stuff but in the end used the old holes
Protip for you:
I would always use "fast cement" (blitzzement in Germany or 5 Minuten zement) for it
Just add more water to make it thinner, then just fill the hole up with it, after 10-15 minutes it's fully hardened and will last forever, i pay 10€ for 5kg here
1. It's stronger than epoxy (i only use epoxy for jobs where there is no other option , for anchors in the wall etc)
2. It's waterproof plus it matches with the old cement / concrete!
PS; I know you do it how you do it, but just wanted to share how we / i do it
Keep it up man!
Greetings from Germany ❤️
Just wanted to say thanks for the videos man they are very helpful for me I’ve always wanted to be a welder but never had anyone to actually show me what to do and found your channel about 6 months ago and I can definitely say I’m more confident in myself when I never thought I would be thank you
Glad to help
One other tip I can throw out is to drill a hole near the bottom of the rail. That way you can get the epoxy inside as well.
That's a good idea!
Thats genius
Love your videos! Welder out here in California, and I have to say I like the way you get shit done. Keep up the great content!
Love your channel Anthony!! Getting an education from every video! Keep up the great work!
Glad to hear it!
One job,many techniques.. respect,. Nice
Great video excellent tips I will definitely be trying the apoxy tip next time I need to fix and secure a railing 👍👍👍
when I am going to make multiple flanges with even spaced holes. I Figure out the distance from the end and center, then make a jig or stops on the drill press or mill then I can clamp in place. then you can just drill all the holes knowing the parts will be clamped in the exact area every time. it makes production way ease and guarantees accuracy. and while I'm drilling I can apply cutting oil to the end if the bit while i'm drilling to keep it cool, I can make a lot of holes with the same bit this way. nice work!
I just got a call to fix a railing tomorrow thanks for this video
nice video Anthony, when i do my foots for gates , if i have around ten to make i usually tack weld a couple that way i can go through the holes faster just making sure they’re the same size and adding plenty of lubricant since its more metal to go through
Dude you’re fuc*’in awesome! Thanks for the vid awesome stuff! Looks like great weather also! We are freezing up here in Wisconsin. Great to see the hard work and the success that comes from it!
Thanks 👍
lookin good ! ill be building a railing for my house soon enough
Big subscriber boost! Your doing it right!
Good shit dawg!! Stay grinding
Awesome video man! Please do more tutorial videos
I put the lubricant into a little bottle cap and just dip the drill bit into it while spinning as needed. Sounds stupid but it works really well and saves on lubricant.
I didn't see any Spanish moss in Brooksville when I was there last week but my wife will be pleased to know, she loves seeing that stuff in the trees and wherever we move to she needs to be happy
dont change a thing. love ur videos and the ur style of making them.
Anchor epoxy is no joke. Great product for many uses.
For chipping out- I like to use an anchor drill on the hammer only setting. Have you ever tried that?
Thank you for these great walkthroughs & showing your techniques. Have a great one
Great vid!
Great vid man. I cnc plasma cut my feet.
Anthony,get yourself a cheap set of transfer punches to duplicate those holes in the mounting plates,works better than a center punch.Great vids BTW !
Boy that punch sure did take off!!
Keep doing you bud
Faulkin Great !!!!
That shits prolly expensive, I use Non shrinking grout. Mix it with water, thick like cake batter. Make it level or a little higher than the concrete.
About Cobalt drill bits, in Los Angeles there is an aero space surplus store that sells surplus hardware, from Boeing, Roar, and other companies, and tools and machinery, they had cobalt drill bits by the lb for $7.00 a lb. , I bought 4 lbs of cobalt bits with was about 108 bits . about $700.00 worth. None of them were bad or dull, and drill stainless steel great. Look for an aero space surplus store .
Great Video. Thanks
dam that was a score!
another way to do it is mark 1st one n
and tac the 4 together and get all 4 done at once
Hey man I recently picked up a miller AEA 200 L non electric start. Bro 100 could pass. Well I got it, changed them old spark plugs with new spark plugs off a 350 Chevy sbc. Stared right up fist pull. Envy who is this welder good enough for the field ?
MM77 Approved 👍🏼👍🏼
A set of transfer punches are cheap. That's what I'd use.
Harbor Freight the creme-de-la-creme of drill presses
I've done thousands of these. A decent cordless hammer drill with say a half inch Mason bit will make quick work of drilling out the old stuff (if you need to say straighten a fucked up rail) get yourself a small bucket of por rok. Pours in nice. Shit is rock hard and sets up in 15 minutes. If you do need it to look nice... fill up until about a half inch from the top of hole. Find a grout that matches what's existing there. Pack it all around and run a wet sponge around it to smooth and feather. Either way your por rok is going to be cheaper and faster than your epoxy with far less money thrown out in waste. Get the small bucket. A big one sitting around will just go to shit after a year and you will be throwing away a $70 bucket. Make that money bud
looks like a Hoome Depot my wife worked at in Casselberry Florida....
how does a cutting torch age and what can be replaced on them?
hand workout on that caulk gun with epoxy.
How do you find odd little jobs like this and what do the pay?
have you ben welding on havey equitpmeat
What is the thickness of that metal foot?
If you use that stuff all the time get a battery powered caulk gun you can get them cheap as hell
Did you get the truck back to your house?
We use por roks👍🏻
Chip that shit out and then grout it. That’s how ya do on new construction
Save your hands when drilling and clamp the metal to the table.
I think your epoxy opaque enough not to get damaged by that Florida sun. I watched a delivery company drop a pallet of roof insulation 30" onto a stairway railing, when the new one came from the fab shop the concrete guy used hydraulic cement to install it in the holes I cored out. But idk your epoxy method epoxy might be better for non-cored holes where you cant get the cement inside the pipe
Pro tip:
(Hi from Germany btw)
We always use "blitzzement" for it which is translated "fast cement", just add more water to make it thinner then you can just fill the hole up with it
10 minutes and it is fully hardened! (Waterproof/very strong etc)
hello man. I'm still a beginner stick welder. I'm still a school and i weld during my free time. i saw a video the other day where a guy was welding thin wall square tubing and he was doing tacks. I'm sure you'll find a similar video on RUclips. is this method good for small projects or is it weak?.
love from Mauritius ❤️🇲🇺
Hard to say without seeing it, when I weld sheet metal i tack it in. So I’d say if it was thinner than 16ga it is probably ok
Thinner the metal, the smaller the rod. Thicker the metal the bigger the rod. You match your rod with the thickness of the material you are welding on- the thinnest material you are welding should be the same size rod you are using or smaller. After you learn what you are doing, you will learn that, unless the blueprint or job requires air/water tight, you will normally use "stitch" welds, about 1/2 inch to an inch long when welding every three to six inches apart (depending on what you are welding), to save money on materials. Welding is gluing two pieces of metal together. You want good penetration into the materials you are welding, but you don't want to blow holes into the material. That is why they make different sizes of rod. If you are welding a thin piece of metal onto a thick piece, go by the thinnest piece of metal you are welding to size your rods. Then, prepare the weld surfaces, by grinding off all rust, paint, cleaning the area of all oil/grease, create a bevel, match your pieces up to how you want them sitting, and be sure to create you a weld area, even if that means building a welders tent around your work area to prevent wind from blowing onto your weld while you are welding. Use weld curtains/shields around your work area, because, simple things like wind will blow your inert gasses away from the weld and cause bad welds. There is a lot to figure out when you first start out, but you will get it. Even when using stick rods, the outer coating burns away and creates an environment around the weld best for the welds, and the slightest wind will blow that atmosphere away from your weld. It's why they make "weld curtains" for. Commercial divers have to sometimes create "rooms" to weld in underwater.
@@MrHunterseeker I have an old lincoln electric trade school welding textbook that has like 200 lessons teaching stick, mig and tig. they recommend using 5/32 6010/6011 on sheet metal(18GA AND THICKER!)... i haven't tried it yet, but they imply that you move ahead at a screaming pace in a straight stringer bead with the flux resting on the metal. dont remember the amps recommended. seems crazy but i want to try it to see if they are full of BS or not... seems like lincoln electric would know what they are doing.
@@MeltinMetalAnthony thank you. have a good day 😁
Look into rockite bro if you dont know abt it. All i do is fab residential rail and install. Measure, fab, install. Its a synthetic concrete. Heats up as it expands. Works good. You can mix that shit like playdoh and not mess with the epoxys. You just gotta spray it off with a water hose after but it will look good
ill try it!
😎👍
yo Ant if you were a super hero do you think you would be like magneto?
I hope I wouldn't be in wheel chair lmao
Oh god please don't ever hold onto your little piece of metal when you are drilling it. That is a recipe for a broken finger. I can't count how many times my drill press has caught onto the piece of metal and sent it spinning. I used to use a piece of MDF board clamped onto the drill press table as a wall that the piece would sit against, until one time the bit got stuck and the metal ripped through the mdf. Now I use a vice to hold everything I drill.
you aver use hilte systum
hey anthony what electrodes do you use when out in the field?
all shorts depends on application
I’m newer to welding, I’ve been running 7018 for everything. Is that smart
I’m not sure but as for now it works.
@@ElChapos 7018 is good if you have clean metal, you can strike an arc and set the stinger down and walk away and come back to a nice bead, for nasty greasy repair work go with 6010
7018/6013 are the best imo, for rusty non-structural stuff esp 6013 is amazing and you can weld some huge gaps too.
Maybe run a bead in the crack, then shmear it too.
Water going to collect in the recessed holes and the post was started Decay and accelerated rate compared to the other posts -
its aluminum
Brah you need to get a chipping hammer electric
Sir, thats a post not a picket lol
6:51 I'd like to be driving rod but she says I'm just a friend to her...
buy a new good drill press
buy me one
wouldn't be so much easier to use metric measurements like the rest of the world
not at this point in my life
Adios
lmao holding that plate with your hand. You should know better than that lol thats an awful idea