I Tried Out 2 Different DIY Spray Foam Kits
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- Опубликовано: 14 дек 2024
- Is DIY spray foam worth it?
I’ve wanted to try DIY spray foam for quite a while. I finally got around to it.
In this video I’ll share my experience trying two different kits.
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How to use DIY spray foam.
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I work with the commercual version of this stuff in the factory.
CRC BRAKE CLEANER is your friend for cleaning up and purging your tips.
Our mixing guns use a 18" PEX tubing for injecting the foam into metal panels.
Another trick is to wrap those tanks with a heating pad to keep them at 88 degrees far.
The hoses need to be warm also.
You get a much better consistancy and proper mix.
With the correct foam chemical ratio you won't have any future shrinkage or outgassing problems with this product.
I would've liked to have seen you use the cans.
That's what I was waiting to see also. Disappointed
I dunno if you have it where you are, but Soudal is v good stuff. Cans don't generally clog up when not used.
This is so different to build / renovate than buildings here in germany that it is very interesting, thx for showing !
About to spray foam my attic, video came at just the right time. Thanks !
Consider hiring this out -- it is likely to be the same price (if you have a meaningful sized job, which it sounds like you do), and possibly even less expensive than the spray foam kit shown in this video. That's what I'm doing -- we picked one of the best-rated installers in the Twin Cities, who also is using what is a top-of-the-line foam, and the cost per board foot is the same as the kit shown in this video.
we used those cylinders at work they were a pain to keep hoses from clogging if you didn't use it fast enough, we coated ends of tips with Vaseline to get a better seal and not have hoses clog when not using them constantly had to keep spraying into a cardboard box to keep tip from clogging.
Thanks for the video, I was wondering about the one can solution
I found extremely effective at insulating my cellar ceiling and joists. Its the covered porch above. Made a great air tight seal. Looks like the bottles i had saved are no good. Considering theyre 2 years old now LOL good video as always
The cans were never designed for open bay sealing, just small holes, corners, cracks, edges, between studs, windows and doors, etc. They can be used for the gaps between exterior sheathing, around bases and tops of wall plates, aswell as corners were studs meet sheathing, sill plates, anywhere drafts can squeeze through. I love using it in joist bays in combination with 2 or 3 inch XPS foam board. I cut them 1 inch shy dimensionally, use screws or nails to hold/pinch em in place, then fill around the perimeter with the can foam. This is a far easier, cleaner and great method to air seal these cavities on a budget before adding batt insulation.
Great video! Can I ask a couple questions? I’m planning to spray my wooden ceiling, but a few people warned me that the foam may hinder the expansion and retraction of the wooden structure possibly damaging it. Is that true? Second, do you recommend to put the air chamber first the spray it?
Thanks for your video, I've been wondering about the particulars of using those kits for a while now. I would maybe zip-tie the cans together to move them easier! You are a hard worker, keep it up!
Agreed with the no ventilation. My concern is with the spray not being directly on the wood. You are basically creating an uncontrolled air gap between that foamboard and the wood. Heat will transfer to the cold air in that gap. As temperature of the air changes in the gap, it will condensate and create moisture. Many builders say to put a sheet like you did. Spray manufacturer says to spray directly on wood. I converted my flat roof and i sprayed directly on the osb. Studies/research at building science really help me.
Oh Wow. Hope I didn’t mess this up. Wouldn’t the temperature in that air gap and outside temperature be the same though and in that case wouldn’t condensate
@@samuelkingentrepreneur in the gap, yes the temperature will be like the outside temperature (if no heatloss in winter). You wont have much problem if air can circulate in that gap (between foamboard and wood) or if you don't live in a cold climate.
The outside air contains moisture (water dropplet). Condensation happens when that air cools down causing the air to reach it's dew point. The outside air will inevitably cools down. Either at night or in winter. In colder climate heatloss from your home insulation is the main issue as this can really aggrevate the temperare difference and thus making condensation. That is why roof are usually ventilated, to prevent the air to get stuck and change from gas to liquid.
the air in the house has much more moisture in winter if warm moist air gets to cold outside surface, you get condensation the outside air is very dry in winter so you need closed cell foam or a vapor barrier to keep moisture from house traveling out through insulation if it is open cell loose insulation.@@Max-vp6rq
If there are vented soffits on the outside of where that foam board went it shouldn't be a problem
Nicely done man good job
i used HVAC tape and reflectix around my outlets
How did it go? Any tips or regrets 6 months later? I have seen mixed reviews like you need to hire it out so you do it right, the chemicals are dangerous, etc.... but that's what people were telling us when we painted our entire house inside and out. I'm glad I saved thousands by DIYing.
Glad to see you had some success with the kit. I've seen a lot of bad info about those kits. Difficult to use, and a fairly large investment for something so easily messed up. I personally just use the smaller cans for the small things and typical fiberglass batt insulation.
yeah, i never liked them some people used them at work somehow and had no problems, but they clog really easy and if end of hose clogs you are screwed id never use them at home.
Thanks for sharing 😀
What do you do with the cylinders when they are depleted?
I'm thinking about using the 2 cylinder system but will practice on my shed first, then my house.
Since you are sealing the air intake for that attic, do you have to install some sort of system to let air into the house now?
Yes, installed an erv
@@samuelkingentrepreneur thank you. I'll look into that. I'm considering having our attic spray foamed to make the house more airtight but didn't know what else to consider.
All attics that have 30 inches or more in height require attic access. Building inspector for 25 years. It’s amazing how much do you guys don’t know. The spray foam is looking pretty good for the first time.
Man I watched the roof video.
Brother you are a machine!
Come see us. Jim in Chile
Dont you want ventilation for mold protection?????
Looks to me like the foam boards are installed an inch away from the underside of the roof for an air passage, but I can't be sure. That's the way I do it.
If you don’t mind explaining why did you do it yourself? The insulation contractors charge per board foot installed (sprayed) for essentially the same price as you bought the material for . So you save your labor and let them deal with the mess. Also you didn’t tell is this a closed or open cell?? I like you live around Detroit and doing almost same thing as you with the house I bought last year, so I got to the insulation part and wondering what you can say about that. Thanks
That's also my impression, at least if he was ready to spray foam the attic now. If it was only that small section that was ready now, then I could see the price being higher to hire it out -- I don't imagine many spray foam installers would really want to deal with a job that's only ~700 board feet at the same price per board foot as a more standard job (2500+ sf).
We're getting our attic spray foamed in a month, and the cost is ~$1 per board foot (edit: final price was $1.30 per bf). This is for a highly rated installer with what I perceive to be the best product out there (and the blowing agent only has a global warming potential of only ~2, which is >99% lower than many spray foam blowing agents). It will all be done in one day, and like you said, I don't have to do any of the work. The alternative mentioned by another commenter (cut foam boards to fill rafter bays, then spray foam the edges with canned foam for an air seal) would be about 25-30% cheaper, but I suspect the spray foam is a better install because it gets into ever nook and cranny, and it won't be impeded by any nails or whatever else coming through the roof sheathing.
Maybe bcuz shit is crazy expensive rn
@@THEHORSELOVER235Did you read the full comment?
I'd like to know where you all are getting contractors that cheap at!!!
@@henrywalker8180 TLDR: I found the company on Yelp, and the final price was ~$1.30 per bf, and I'm happy with the work that was done.
The company I hired has great ratings on both Yelp and Google Maps. They actually sub-contracted it out to a company with equally good reviews. My understanding after that was the company I had contacted was basically sales company that subs out work, so presumably an even better price would have been possible had I cut out this middleman. The subcontractor was based >3 hours away, so they'd been outside of my search radius ... expanding your search beyond what you think makes sense may help you find a good company and better price.
Final details: $6250 for 4800 board feet, so it came to $1.30 per bf. I inquired on the foam details, and it was JM Corbond blue foam, which from my research online suggested it was a very solid choice: the blowing agent used has a low GWP of ~2 and the insulating value of about R-6.5 per inch before thermal drift (I'm expecting that it will decline to R-5.5 per inch or so in a few years, as most foam tends to settle around R-4 to R-5.5).
I could have also probably negotiated the price down further, because it was extremely easy access for the crew. The bid was made without an onsite visit, and I should have sent photos of the spaces to be spray foamed. The work was finished on the same day it started and took around 8-9 hours for full setup and tear down. All finished surfaces that were exposed were protected by the crew. I'd definitely do this all again if I were in a similar situation with a future house.
Note: If you are getting a surface spray foamed where it is difficult to see how much foam was sprayed, i.e. not in a study or rafter bay, then be sure to measure the final thickness before calling the work complete. Some contactors will sign up to spray, say, 4 inches and then only spray 2-3 inches. To measure, just use a long stiff wire and poke a few holes around the spray foam to the surface it was sprayed onto, and then measure how much of the wire went into the foam.
Does it come with extra tips. The kit 2 part kit is around $390.
Yes. There was at least 5 fan tips and I believe 5 stream tips as well
@@samuelkingentrepreneur so does it really make a night and day difference like the real stuff
It would be nice to have a insulated cover of some sort to keep contents of the cans warm while using. Will help keep the spray consistent.
Be careful. As far as I know, all the can foams (one part foam) are open cell types. If you live in a cold climate area where you need to be concerned with water vapor movement and condensation, you need closed cell foam.
2" think will stop condensation
The cans worked SOOOO much better for me. And way cheaper. Just use the correct tip (they come with two different kinds, one for walls and one for ceilings) on the gun and the results were even and smooth. Not sure what you were doing wrong because you didn't include any footage of using them in the video.
What brand was it. Mine only came with one tip and I certainly preferred the dap kit with the two cylinders. I actually created another video applying the cans.
Is this closed foam?
it would be funny if dude was doing this on sunday on some random new house to make the video hahahaha
I was so hoping you would show using the cans…. From what I’ve read they weren’t designed the way you used them.
@@jefferydonnally2266 I’ve done a video on this since
Also they are not the typical spray foam cans
So if anyone asked. About a ridge vent they don't know anything about insulation
I seen RIGHT now that I’ll either hire it done professionally and just pay the price!!! I will NOT go through all this!!!👆😂😂
................ I've left a couple helpful comments on this video & then keep disappearing. Do you know why?
you tube is always messing up.
At the end says the can were a waste of $$$
❤❤❤👍👍👍
why is this literally impossible to buy in australia fuck my life
One is a spray foam kit the cans are for filling voids to completely different products
The cans are actually made for insulating just like the kit. They come with a fan tip that applies it in much the same way as the kit. Check out the link for the product in the description.
Insurance companies hate spray foam. Hides rot.
I don't mean to be rude but if you want any feedback, this is a completely useless video for anyone trying to determine if the multi can kit is any good. We didn't see you use it so we have no idea if you used it properly in the first place.
I've seen other videos of people laying down decent coats with the same kit so was it user error? Did you use the correct tip for the application you chose? Did you have a bad kit?
We will never know, we just have to go by what you said since we can't observe if you were using it correctly or not.
Thanks for your report but it's not any help.
Get low expansion foam.
You look so uncomfortable doing this, all herky jerky
Code requires ventilation in the attic one square is for every 150 ft.² if you do evaluation only. If you do the upper third of the roof and eve it is one square root score every 300 ft.². So don’t listen to him about attic ventilation. I hope he sees this and learn. Building inspector for 25 years.