Very well explained. Thank you. Found code for IAC on a vehicle that i was working on today. Engine is really rough. Multiple misfires, running rich and whatnot. Perfect time to perform test.
Thank you! Looking at a car with no real issues except an IAC code. Your video has LOTS of testing info, and the picture-in-picture was a NICE addition. Very informative!
Thank you for showing the way to test the IAC. I am going to test mine tomorrow. I was really worried that I was going to have to replace the part and I don't have a lot of cash. SUBSCRIBED!! And please keep the videos coming this one was very informative.
This is a great video. I've been working on an idle issue on my mercruiser boat engine. Someone explained to e that I should check for power and resistance on my wiring harness at the IAC. I had no idea how to do that until I watched your video. Great attention to detail. The inset camera view as you test for resistance is a great feature! Thanks a bunch!
Great video. Buying a good digital meter paid off with its first use. Since my Eclipse GT wasn't throwing any codes, but wouldn't idle, I needed to test the part I thought might be the culprit. This video showed me how to do it. New IAC= Big smile & big savings!
Good Video work with the Picture In Picture (PIP) showing the details of the testing the connectors. Those details make all the difference when trying to learn what you're doing. The are a lot of instructional videos on RUclips but the camera work is so bad that your not able to see what exactly that the person is working on. I appreciate the extra attention to detail for learning purposes. Keep up the good work
Thanks a lot Dude. I'm having idle issues with my car and I didn't know how to comfirm if the IACV was responsible for it. That's history now thanks to your very informative video. God bless you.
Thanx for the vid. Helped alot. On my way to buy a new one. When I tested the old one had 5 oms of resistance. When I took it out to see if it rose whenthw ignition was on the top part went flying out. Hahaha. Hope this solves my problem. Thanx bro.
What are the part#'s for the 5 screws that hold the IACV to the Throttle Body? I messed up those phillips head screws removing them cuz they were a bit stuck. 2001 Maxima GLE
omg this is so helpful right now my car is idling like.3000 rpm I just replaced the throttle body part but trying to figure out why it idles so high when I turn it on
Do I need to reset my computer on my 1999 Subaru legacy outback, after I check and clean my IACV? I didn't actually remove it all the way but after reassembling, my car is now acting like my battery isn't working for a minute. It starts but immediately dies. When I try to turn over again, it acts like I have a dead battery but if I wait a second then try again, it starts but not in a strong way. I know my battery is fine because I just got it tested. When my father and I replaced and adjusted my TPS the other day, we followed the recommended computer reset protocol and that got rid of the At Oil Temp and check engine light. It is shifting so smoothly now and all seemed perfect so we decided to see if we could clean the IACV, we were concerned we might screw it up so just shot carb cleaner into it and then put all the hoses and sensors back into place. Seemed to be fine until the next day when I went to start it and experienced it dying and then having issues starting. I've never had an issue with it starting. Wondering if i should've done the computer reset after messing with the IACV too. Or perhaps we didn't put something back correctly? Anyone have any advice here?
Great explanation... I followed your last test. When I turn on the ignition I hear the IAC click and if I leave it in the ON position for a few secs without starting the engine, the IAC clicks back to the off position. Is this normal behavior? Thanks Jake
Does this work for motorcycles as well? I’ve took my IAC valve of and left it connected..when I turn the key to on position, it doesn’t move at all.. Side note: I’ve been having problems with my motorcycle not being able to idle for more than 5 seconds..I changed everything but today I decided to check the IAC valve and it doesn’t move on the key on position
Thanks for the tip on Ohms. I bought a new one and my car did not run well. I tested the new valve (mine had only 2 pins) and there was almost no resistance.
Would be the same test for a two pin set up. 2001 ford ranger 3.0l I put in a new one and still getting the code and running really bad. I''m thinking it might be a bad ECU. Any thoughts
Can you show how to check harness for short to ground and short to power? This is actually the next step someone should do after doing the methods you showed. Thanks.
All your testing checked out for me except for the last step at 5:20 on my 95' 3000GT. When I turned the car on several times, the shaft did not move at all. I decided to try it again and the first time I turned it on, it moved ever so slightly but wouldn't move again after I turn it back off and on. Is this an indication this part needs replacing?
Does the first test applicable in all 6 pin iacv? Mine is suzuki and has a 6 pin iacv. I wanted to test the iacv coz my engine when running for 30 mins there's a problem occure like when you press the accelerator a little bit the rpm will surge to 1800. Also I notice that when the ac compressor cut off the rpm also surge to almost 1800.
Question regarding a 2002 Nissan Sentra GXE. The resistance check is good and the voltages are good. I have removed the valve to check if it moves when turning the ignition on/off and it does not move. The valve was taken off of a working car. Any suggestions?
Could you please help me locate the IAC location on 2002-2005 Audi A4 1.8T B6 Model? mine is 2005 B6 and I am having terrible time with my idling. Every effort to locate the IAC has been unsuccessful
So this must be the winding noise I hear...I just installed a repaired ecu from ebay and my car won't stay on unless I give it gas once it warms up it will stay on...where can I get a new one iac and why is the ecu not calibrated to work right
Good show. But if ur having idle issues u may need to clean the valve and seat and air passages and throttle body too. Or u could have significant vacuum leak somewhere. Or u may need. A tune up. Plugs ,cap n rotor, fuel filter, air filter, pcv valve, ect.
I got question guys. I got a 1998 5.7liter GMC Suburban. My idle seems to be a little high, it's idling now more or less at 1300 sometimes seems like 1500 , Do you think that the idle control valve could have something to do with this issue? I was thinking maybe it was possibly stuck open.. Thanks ahead again guys, you guys are always highly appreciated! 👍
Thank you for the video. Quick question, I was getting P0505 too and bought a replacement part on Amazon. No more p0505 code but this particular IAC makes noise when the key is set to accessories. It sounds like a little motor is constantly running. Is that normal or should I ask for a replacement?
I have the code and replaced the iac # 530 306 57ab on a 1999 dodge Durango. After spraying carburetor cleaner all over the carb and cleaning it and putting on the new iac it will not start at all. The security light is on. I disconnected the battery to reset it still won't start.
Good good video, T have a 01' Mazda Tribute 3.0. Idles rough, checked IACV clean inside. No power at key ON! Im on disabillity, things are tight like most places. That fuse on the IACV also tends to EEC, VPWR, EVR, MAF, ( bulkhead)? Most abbreviations I'm familiar, but EEC , EVR? V power ! I guess ? Ha ha it starts right up! 5 seconds later it starts to stumble to death (dies)! Plz sir i need help .
your very detail about your videos there great.. i was hoping you could help me out. i had a stuck idle pulley it was melying the blet. change it works good now. but i noticed that my 2003 dodge durango truns off now when im at stop. also if i have it on park and give it some gas about 4,000 rpm it dies... i was told to adjust idle. would you know how yo do that.. i was also told that i should just clean the throttle body and iac.. any recommendations.. thanks
Great video, but I need to go a bit deeper. I want to learn exactly how the IAC steps, they are not simply fully open or fully closed, they can be set to various positions by the ECM to get different idle speeds. Yours has two sets of 3 pins. Pins 2 and 5 have 12V to them, then I guess a Ground signal from the ECM on pin 1 half steps the valve in one direction and then a Ground on pin 4 puts the other half step in that direction. To move the valve the other way, the ECM applies Ground signals on the 3 an 6 pins in a similar fashion. Is that correct? I have a GM 1987 2.8L V6 Fiero. My IAC valve has only 4 pins. I want to make a setup to actuate the value on the bench. My brother is an instructor at Porter and Chester and he would like to have a little set up to demonstrate how IAC valves work to his students. So learning how they actually work is the first step. I read 50 Ohms across each pair. I guess one pair moves the valve in one direction, and the other pair moves it in the other direction - but not quite, read on. I took some baby steps and tried it with 5V first... no action. Then I tried it with 9V (to be safe). One pair of contacts, still no action, but on the other pair puts a small twitch on the plunger in one direction (even if I reverse voltage polarity on the pair, it still twitches in the SAME direction). Ok, I guess it does use 12V, but seeing just a twitch is on right path. But the twitch was rotational on the plunger NOT in or out, and again, I expected it to twitch in the other direction using the other pair of contacts - but not the slightest twitch with those contacts! So, before I try it at 12V, I need to get a better idea on what signals/timing the ECM puts on the IAC valve to actuate it. There appears to be no position feedback from the valve to the ECM. I guess on power up, the ECM steps the valve many, many times to get to a fully open (home) position, and then the ECM keeps track of the step pulses to determine its position from then on - until power off. I have used stepper motors many times in the past, and that is what is nice about them, you don't normally need any feedback because the are dead on accurate on the position (and knowing it's position) if you pulse them properly. But I have no operational specs on my IAC valve. Any ideas? Thanks.
i replaced the iacv with a used one and still the same problem, at cold starts it stalls until it warms up, no vacuum leaks. what else could it be or should i have replaced it with a nee iacv? thx.
how you're doing I have a 1996 mercury grand marquis gs and it's making a very loud humming noise and I thought it was a wheel bearing but it wasn't a wheel bearing they said it was a idle air control valve so all I have to do is just change it and it will eliminate the problem
Great video, you test for power in the sensor, the sensor has 6 pins, you only showed the two for power, what are the others 4 pins that you did not test, are they 2 grounds and two signals? Please let us know and what are the voltage of those others pins, thank you. Cheers from ontario ca
I like the video, only suggestion would be to go a bit slower when showing where this part 'lives' and zoom in from wide view towards the part/area of the car you are working on. But great Info!!
Tried the last step where you take out valve and turn the key, my valve exploded like others said theirs did. I got a new valve in and it actually fixed my idling problem but be warned, you run the risk of destroying your valve if you actuate it without it being mounted in your vehicle!
I checked mine it does shows everything you've had explained but still have the problem.& the scan shows a bad iac what it could be i already cleaned the EGR as well but i don't see any changes. Any suggestions???
Gotcha. On your vehicle try doing an ohms test on the valve. Grab a digital multi-meter and see if you're getting resistance. Here's another video showing how to perform an ohms test. Fast forward to 50 seconds: ruclips.net/video/j-Wr2VMvfbc/видео.html
Question: I have an IACV that's got only 4, not 6, terminals. So I did the ohms test on 1 + 2, 2+ 3 and 3 + 4. 1 + 2 and 3 + 4 showed about 53 ohms, but 2 + 3, nothing. Does that suggest a fault? Thanks.
hey just saw this awesome vid. but I came into a problem. did everything you did and everything thing checked out cleaned it up a bit then put it back in but still have code showing. any advice?
Hey man i have a question. I did the last test and the pintle shot out of the IAC. Is that because i was stupid or something else every time i turned the car to the off position it would go out so far then it shot out still trying to find it as we speak.
Ok last question...? I took off the IAC itself, and there is a little coolant on it and inside the housing. Is that ok as coolant runs through part of it, or should it be completely dry?
And when i pulled the TB off, I found all sorts of coolant basically caked in there. I cleaned what I could and shot a lot of Seafoam inside to hopefully loosen more.
I have done all does test and i get 30 ohms and 12v on the harness and i still get the p0505. I even bought a new IAC but no luck. I also tested the continuity from the harness to the ecm and it was good. What can it be?
James Jimmy The only thing I can recommend is see if you can get your hands on the factory repair manual. Maybe there's something else to look at on your Mitsubishi. Out of curiosity, any other trouble codes?
my car idles like crazy and stops on me its a 96 nissan maxima if i clean ghe iac will it help i cleaned first half of my throttle but didnt take it fully apart to clean.other side any tips? i really need to fix this
I have a 04 Ford Freestar that will act like it's running out of gas at first cold start. Fuel pressure is fine. If I hold RPM's at 3000 or more for a minute it will be fine but RPM's at idle are jerky. No check engine lights are on. Sound like the IACV to you? Thanks
I have a 94 ranger 4.0 that has a very bad idle. Also when I hit the brakes hard it stalls out but only if its low on gas. I can replicate the stall every time but only when its getting close to e. If it has a quarter tank or more, it will not stall at all Sometimes when im at a stop it will jerk. Not sure if thats related. The iac valve looks super clean almost looks brand new. The only code its throwing I looked up and its mass af sensor which I already replaced. Also I can smell that its running very rich.
WaterWhipin Sounds like the fuel pump pickup is toward the rear of the fuel tank. When you're low on fuel and nail the brakes, the fuel is being forced away from the fuel pump pickup point and stalling out. Try to keep enough gas in the tank or you can burn out the fuel pump. The fuel acts as a lubricant for the pump. Regarding the rough idle, first thought is the idle air control valve. Other areas to look at include the fuel pressure regulator. EGR valve and PCV valve (I have videos for both) or you could have a leak at the air duct causing the MAF code. A bad idle can take some time to diagnose.
CarsNToys thanks for the response. I have good fuel pressure, im not sure if thats an indicator for needing a fuel pressure regulator. I checked for vacuum leak couldnt find anything. I got the truck a year ago and the guy told me about the issues the truck had and I asked him if it might be the fuel pump he said that he replaced it but Im not sure how long ago or if it was installed properly. Thanks for the ideas ill give those videos a look
Excellent video, very helpful, a mechanic told me that after a replacement, The computer should be reset? it is a mitsubishi outlander 2003. is this neccesary? how reset the computer?
CarsNToys hey mate. I've changed this, ECU, air flow. and yet it still idles at 2200 when cold! the coolant icv kicks in when warm but when it's cold it's high revving. it's a 92 Mitsubishi Pajero ( Montero ) 3.0 v6. any ideas? thank you
in Nissan sentra 2003 should idle valve axle go out or go in after switching on because I have rpm problem and note that my idle valve work opposite the video '''putting car on universal computer found no DTC ,,,my idle rpm 1000 and fluctuating while driving if I release petrol pedal on gear
Hi David, in my car, the coil part is easier to remove than the entire IAC. I did a test, the harness was getting 11v, some pins on iacv was having 30ohms while some had 29ohms. While car was idling(though rough idling), I unplugged the iacv harness, i didnt notice any change. If I change only the coil, will the effect be same as changing the entire iacv?
I'm getting the code to suggest mu iacv us bad. When changing out the iacv am I required to install a new ecm? I've read in several place I should, but your vedio didn't suggest it. Btw, I talk your video as gospel as you do amazing work. One last thing I have a 97 infiniti i30 if that matters. Thanks.
+Bobby Gee Did you get this fixed? You need to check the ECM if its bad also. When the IAC goes bad, it shorts out the chip in the ECM (this is a common occurrence in maximas and i30s). You'll see a burned chip if you take out the ECM. GL
I tested the IAC VALVE like you did in the end of video. And it only move left to right not out and in. Does it need replaced? Can I send you a video of what it does so you can see what it does thanks.
I dont get any code.if its plug in car idle vere low when braking en dies somtime,but when i startup idle very good. Now i unplug it an never dies anymore or no low idling but keeps idleing high.idle at almost 2000 rpm in P or N in D it stays on 1100 rpm
Primary causes for vehicle shutting off is fuel pump, injector(s), idle air control valve and the ignition circuit. For your particular case, I'd start with the idle control valve. Also check the pcv valve.
does the iac valve cause symptons of 1. high rpm over 1000 2. low rpm 1000 or less 3. car shakes when its on 4. lack of power like if the car wants to shut off while you driving it or not driving it. ??? 5. motor feels weak like if it dont wanna stay on feels like if it want to shut down?? 6. can it also cause battery to die out also?? sorry just curious to know please help me on this one. thanks for your time and patience god bless.
Great video. I tried to remove the iac from my car but I stripped one of the screws. Any ideas to get it removed? Tried using pliers but couldn't get a good grip to loosen it up. Thanks in advanced!
Great videos. I have a P0505 hard code which I believe has something to do with either the ISC motor and/or ECM. But before I fix this code and spend lots of money, I noticed that all four of my readiness monitors are NOT complete. I understand the procedure to reset these readiness monitors, but do I need to repair this P0505 first BEFORE I can run the readiness monitors? Is there another option or procedure to reset these readiness monitors first? I know I can get several other codes when the four readiness monitors are run, but is there a way to reset these monitors so I have an idea of what else is wrong with my vehicle? I don't want to spend money to repair code P0505 ONLY to find out other codes later when the readiness monitors are run. Please help.
Thank you for your informative video. In regards to the last step, how can I supply power to the IAC without removing it completely (since mine is part of the throtle body assembly) using a multimeter to see it actually mechanically moving? Thanks.
Dear guy, My Mitsubishi Galant year 1990 has a problem the rpm not stable in idle. When give load like AC ON or Head Light ON or move the wheel steer the idle rpm will run rough up and down excessivelly and sometimes the engine shut down by it self. I already changed the Idle Valve sensor 2 times and check the resistant is ok. The output power from the plug is 12.5 volt, but the problem still exist. I checked the movement of the Idle Valve sensor plunger but it movement was only shaking and not extend or retract. Is the ECU bad ? Please your suggest. Thanks alot. John Purwanto, Tangerang City, Indonesia.
Good Morning, I have a 95 Maxima. Does the Idle Air Control Valve always give a code? Car is not registering any codes. Have to pump accelerator when car has sat over night, rough idle at red lights. If I move it to neutral, car smooths out. Car runs ok once I'm not longer at the idle. Any ideas what could possibly be the problem? Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.
kfjones58 Not necessarily. You can have an IACV going without a code showing. Rough idle can be a number of things. Try cleaning the throttle body with throttle body cleaner. Also check the pcv valve and egr valve. I have vids for both. Just search my page. If you still have problems let me know
Thanks for your response. I took it to Nissan for a diagnostic. They came back with Misfire coming from #6 injector is not spraying. Do you think this could be the problem also? I have an appointment for Tues to have it replaced.
+Dominique Williams Sure could be. If it turns out to be okay, other things to check is the mass air flow sensor - ruclips.net/video/ewjO9JVr8NU/видео.html - fuel and ignition system.
So I have a 99 gmc sonoma. And she runs great. But! Every day coming home from work the rpm surges when I'm doing over 70mph. My gmc does not have the check engine light on or any other. And when the rpm surge happens she has power. No transmission slip she takes off and when I step on the gas it goes down to normal speed but continues to surge.
You just saved my Pathy. This old video is a gift that keeps on giving.
Is it an R50 ?
I like your videos they are real clear and not music, clear images,nice,just few like you thankyou
My 2002 Buick Rendezvous RPM jump up and down at come to a stop
78a GOING ON RIGHT NOW I'LL COME AND TELL YOU
Very well explained. Thank you. Found code for IAC on a vehicle that i was working on today. Engine is really rough. Multiple misfires, running rich and whatnot. Perfect time to perform test.
Thank you! Looking at a car with no real issues except an IAC code. Your video has LOTS of testing info, and the picture-in-picture was a NICE addition. Very informative!
Thank you for showing the way to test the IAC. I am going to test mine tomorrow. I was really worried that I was going to have to replace the part and I don't have a lot of cash. SUBSCRIBED!! And please keep the videos coming this one was very informative.
This is a great video. I've been working on an idle issue on my mercruiser boat engine. Someone explained to e that I should check for power and resistance on my wiring harness at the IAC. I had no idea how to do that until I watched your video. Great attention to detail. The inset camera view as you test for resistance is a great feature! Thanks a bunch!
rossi7r
Best video instruction for IAC valve I've seen.
Great video. Buying a good digital meter paid off with its first use. Since my Eclipse GT wasn't throwing any codes, but wouldn't idle, I needed to test the part I thought might be the culprit. This video showed me how to do it. New IAC= Big smile & big savings!
Sweet! Glad to help.
Thank you for your very good information. Was easy to follow so I think it’ll be easy to copy. Thank you.
Excellent video sir. Very detailed and well-edited. Thanks.
I cannot Express how thankful i am for these videos you taught me so much!
Excellent video !! Thank you very much !!!
Thanks for the video. .my iac went out and because of you I had the knowledge to test and replace it thanks again
+Jean Gimenez Glad to help man
Thanks man 👍. U are more helpful than the repair manual. Excellent presentation
Nice video. Direct to the point unlike others it takes 30mins just to explain this🙄
Good Video work with the Picture In Picture (PIP) showing the details of the testing the connectors. Those details make all the difference when trying to learn what you're doing. The are a lot of instructional videos on RUclips but the camera work is so bad that your not able to see what exactly that the person is working on. I appreciate the extra attention to detail for learning purposes. Keep up the good work
Thank you very much!
Thank you so much for this video , I have a 93 Summit with this part on it . This really helped.
Thanks a lot Dude. I'm having idle issues with my car and I didn't know how to comfirm if the IACV was responsible for it. That's history now thanks to your very informative video. God bless you.
Very informative and well done video! I wish more 'how to' videos were like this.
Thank you!
Michael Vinson
thanks for the time you took to help others learn
Glad to help.
Thanx for the vid. Helped alot. On my way to buy a new one. When I tested the old one had 5 oms of resistance. When I took it out to see if it rose whenthw ignition was on the top part went flying out. Hahaha. Hope this solves my problem. Thanx bro.
Henry M Cool man. Glad to help
Thanks bro .I managed to repair the 1 g eclipse. like your video hello hungary
Thanks for the fast response I really appreciate it. Would you happen to have a video on the vacuum hose and valve you are speaking of. Thanks again
+doug resha Unfortunately I don't. The Maxima I usually work on is older and doesn't have this vacuum hose.
Nicely done video. Concise and clear.
What are the part#'s for the 5 screws that hold the IACV to the Throttle Body? I messed up those phillips head screws removing them cuz they were a bit stuck. 2001 Maxima GLE
omg this is so helpful right now my car is idling like.3000 rpm I just replaced the throttle body part but trying to figure out why it idles so high when I turn it on
+Mely Serrano Sounds like you may need to adjust the throttle position sensor.
Lifesaver, thank you
Do I need to reset my computer on my 1999 Subaru legacy outback, after I check and clean my IACV? I didn't actually remove it all the way but after reassembling, my car is now acting like my battery isn't working for a minute. It starts but immediately dies. When I try to turn over again, it acts like I have a dead battery but if I wait a second then try again, it starts but not in a strong way. I know my battery is fine because I just got it tested. When my father and I replaced and adjusted my TPS the other day, we followed the recommended computer reset protocol and that got rid of the At Oil Temp and check engine light. It is shifting so smoothly now and all seemed perfect so we decided to see if we could clean the IACV, we were concerned we might screw it up so just shot carb cleaner into it and then put all the hoses and sensors back into place. Seemed to be fine until the next day when I went to start it and experienced it dying and then having issues starting. I've never had an issue with it starting. Wondering if i should've done the computer reset after messing with the IACV too. Or perhaps we didn't put something back correctly? Anyone have any advice here?
Thank for the tips. My car IAC has the same 6 pins. 👍👍👍
Glad it helped
Interesting ! My 95 3vzfe wont start cold without pedal. Idles hot at 4 to 500 and tends to stall. THANX
Great explanation... I followed your last test. When I turn on the ignition I hear the IAC click and if I leave it in the ON position for a few secs without starting the engine, the IAC clicks back to the off position. Is this normal behavior? Thanks Jake
on the diag device what is meant by actual stepper motor value?
Does the 2006 lexus gs300 have the IACV ?
I can't seem to locate it
Does this work for motorcycles as well? I’ve took my IAC valve of and left it connected..when I turn the key to on position, it doesn’t move at all..
Side note: I’ve been having problems with my motorcycle not being able to idle for more than 5 seconds..I changed everything but today I decided to check the IAC valve and it doesn’t move on the key on position
That was a great video. 👍🏼
Thanks for the tip on Ohms. I bought a new one and my car did not run well. I tested the new valve (mine had only 2 pins) and there was almost no resistance.
+craze1701 Glad to help!
Would be the same test for a two pin set up. 2001 ford ranger 3.0l I put in a new one and still getting the code and running really bad. I''m thinking it might be a bad ECU. Any thoughts
Greg Seleen Did you figure out what the problem was? I have a 2000 Ranger with a 3.0L.
Sir. I wont now this 2pin 12v coming from ecu if is change by mistek is any problem for iacv fungtion?
Excellent! Thanks.
Can you show how to check harness for short to ground and short to power? This is actually the next step someone should do after doing the methods you showed. Thanks.
i rerplaced my iac on my 2002 SS,,still has a too high idle,,so its on to the next step??? intake leak perhaps???
damn good video. clear and easy
Thank you. Hope it helped.
All your testing checked out for me except for the last step at 5:20 on my 95' 3000GT. When I turned the car on several times, the shaft did not move at all. I decided to try it again and the first time I turned it on, it moved ever so slightly but wouldn't move again after I turn it back off and on. Is this an indication this part needs replacing?
Sounds to me it needs to be replaced.
+CarsNToys OK thanks, hopefully it fixes the reason why my car is shaking at idle and lacking power
Does the iac stay buzzing in the in position?
Does the first test applicable in all 6 pin iacv? Mine is suzuki and has a 6 pin iacv. I wanted to test the iacv coz my engine when running for 30 mins there's a problem occure like when you press the accelerator a little bit the rpm will surge to 1800. Also I notice that when the ac compressor cut off the rpm also surge to almost 1800.
Cool, like that you showed it OUT of the TB , as my Haynes Manual doesnt cover
Much info at all for a 90s Chrysler V6 3.0..... AIC Demystifyed ! ! !
I can't tell you how great this tutorial is! You're the best!!!
+Errol Dillon Thank you
Question regarding a 2002 Nissan Sentra GXE. The resistance check is good and the voltages are good. I have removed the valve to check if it moves when turning the ignition on/off and it does not move. The valve was taken off of a working car. Any suggestions?
Mirko Miljanovic If the valve doesn't move then you'll need a new IACV.
Great video, very knowledgable and informational
tiny movement 😓 .. wondering if its like the other cars ( long extension ) and by pulling we can determine its stuck or jammed
Could you please help me locate the IAC location on 2002-2005 Audi A4 1.8T B6 Model? mine is 2005 B6 and I am having terrible time with my idling. Every effort to locate the IAC has been unsuccessful
So this must be the winding noise I hear...I just installed a repaired ecu from ebay and my car won't stay on unless I give it gas once it warms up it will stay on...where can I get a new one iac and why is the ecu not calibrated to work right
Good show. But if ur having idle issues u may need to clean the valve and seat and air passages and throttle body too. Or u could have significant vacuum leak somewhere. Or u may need. A tune up. Plugs ,cap n rotor, fuel filter, air filter, pcv valve, ect.
Thank you.
I got question guys. I got a 1998 5.7liter GMC Suburban. My idle seems to be a little high, it's idling now more or less at 1300 sometimes seems like 1500 , Do you think that the idle control valve could have something to do with this issue? I was thinking maybe it was possibly stuck open.. Thanks ahead again guys, you guys are always highly appreciated! 👍
Thank you for the video. Quick question, I was getting P0505 too and bought a replacement part on Amazon. No more p0505 code but this particular IAC makes noise when the key is set to accessories. It sounds like a little motor is constantly running. Is that normal or should I ask for a replacement?
I have the code and replaced the iac # 530 306 57ab on a 1999 dodge Durango. After spraying carburetor cleaner all over the carb and cleaning it and putting on the new iac it will not start at all. The security light is on. I disconnected the battery to reset it still won't start.
Good good video, T have a 01' Mazda Tribute 3.0. Idles rough, checked IACV clean inside. No power at key ON!
Im on disabillity, things are tight like most places. That fuse on the IACV also tends to EEC, VPWR, EVR, MAF, ( bulkhead)?
Most abbreviations I'm familiar, but EEC , EVR? V power ! I guess ?
Ha ha it starts right up! 5 seconds later it starts to stumble to death (dies)! Plz sir i need help .
your very detail about your videos there great.. i was hoping you could help me out. i had a stuck idle pulley it was melying the blet. change it works good now. but i noticed that my 2003 dodge durango truns off now when im at stop. also if i have it on park and give it some gas about 4,000 rpm it dies... i was told to adjust idle. would you know how yo do that.. i was also told that i should just clean the throttle body and iac.. any recommendations.. thanks
Great video, but I need to go a bit deeper. I want to learn exactly how the IAC steps, they are not simply fully open or fully closed, they can be set to various positions by the ECM to get different idle speeds.
Yours has two sets of 3 pins. Pins 2 and 5 have 12V to them, then I guess a Ground signal from the ECM on pin 1 half steps the valve in one direction and then a Ground on pin 4 puts the other half step in that direction. To move the valve the other way, the ECM applies Ground signals on the 3 an 6 pins in a similar fashion.
Is that correct?
I have a GM 1987 2.8L V6 Fiero. My IAC valve has only 4 pins. I want to make a setup to actuate the value on the bench. My brother is an instructor at Porter and Chester and he would like to have a little set up to demonstrate how IAC valves work to his students. So learning how they actually work is the first step.
I read 50 Ohms across each pair. I guess one pair moves the valve in one direction, and the other pair moves it in the other direction - but not quite, read on.
I took some baby steps and tried it with 5V first... no action. Then I tried it with 9V (to be safe).
One pair of contacts, still no action, but on the other pair puts a small twitch on the plunger in one direction (even if I reverse voltage polarity on the pair, it still twitches in the SAME direction).
Ok, I guess it does use 12V, but seeing just a twitch is on right path. But the twitch was rotational on the plunger NOT in or out, and again, I expected it to twitch in the other direction using the other pair of contacts - but not the slightest twitch with those contacts!
So, before I try it at 12V, I need to get a better idea on what signals/timing the ECM puts on the IAC valve to actuate it.
There appears to be no position feedback from the valve to the ECM.
I guess on power up, the ECM steps the valve many, many times to get to a fully open (home) position, and then the ECM keeps track of the step pulses to determine its position from then on - until power off.
I have used stepper motors many times in the past, and that is what is nice about them, you don't normally need any feedback because the are dead on accurate on the position (and knowing it's position) if you pulse them properly. But I have no operational specs on my IAC valve.
Any ideas?
Thanks.
i replaced the iacv with a used one and still the same problem, at cold starts it stalls until it warms up, no vacuum leaks. what else could it be or should i have replaced it with a nee iacv? thx.
how you're doing I have a 1996 mercury grand marquis gs and it's making a very loud humming noise and I thought it was a wheel bearing but it wasn't a wheel bearing they said it was a idle air control valve so all I have to do is just change it and it will eliminate the problem
Great video
Happy to help.
Nice watch. :), Personally, I don't wear jewelry when working on my car. Just saying. Great video. I'm off to get my new part.thks
would that be the same for nissan pulsar n16 motor
Great video, you test for power in the sensor, the sensor has 6 pins, you only showed the two for power, what are the others 4 pins that you did not test, are they 2 grounds and two signals? Please let us know and what are the voltage of those others pins, thank you. Cheers from ontario ca
I like the video, only suggestion would be to go a bit slower when showing where this part 'lives' and zoom in from wide view towards the part/area of the car you are working on. But great Info!!
Appreciate the feedback.
My Camry 2004 Le is throwing P0505 error code. I just replaced throttle body. Do you have suggestion any fix/suggestion for Camry.
Tried the last step where you take out valve and turn the key, my valve exploded like others said theirs did. I got a new valve in and it actually fixed my idling problem but be warned, you run the risk of destroying your valve if you actuate it without it being mounted in your vehicle!
I checked mine it does shows everything you've had explained but still have the problem.& the scan shows a bad iac what it could be i already cleaned the EGR as well but i don't see any changes. Any suggestions???
What kind of vehicle? Any other trouble codes?
CarsNToys its a 95 gmc sierra 2500. 7.4 .& since is an old model it doesn't show any other codes.
Gotcha. On your vehicle try doing an ohms test on the valve. Grab a digital multi-meter and see if you're getting resistance. Here's another video showing how to perform an ohms test. Fast forward to 50 seconds: ruclips.net/video/j-Wr2VMvfbc/видео.html
Question: I have an IACV that's got only 4, not 6, terminals. So I did the ohms test on 1 + 2, 2+ 3 and 3 + 4. 1 + 2 and 3 + 4 showed about 53 ohms, but 2 + 3, nothing. Does that suggest a fault? Thanks.
Hello. I have the same facts. Have you received an answer?
same scenario here. what was the verdict?
I have a 2002 Nissan maxima, I cant find the iacv, ibthought it was connected to the throttle body as it is on the 2000-2001 model
What if im not getting a code but i suspect the IAC valve?
hey just saw this awesome vid. but I came into a problem. did everything you did and everything thing checked out cleaned it up a bit then put it back in but still have code showing. any advice?
Stephen Horton you must clear codes after each replacement fix to see if it comes on again
Hey man i have a question. I did the last test and the pintle shot out of the IAC. Is that because i was stupid or something else every time i turned the car to the off position it would go out so far then it shot out still trying to find it as we speak.
Ok last question...? I took off the IAC itself, and there is a little coolant on it and inside the housing. Is that ok as coolant runs through part of it, or should it be completely dry?
What kind of vehicle you working on?
2000 Maxima SE
CaretHalfgem
I haven't come across that on a 4th or 5th gen Maxima. They're usually bone dry.
Actually i found it it should be bone dry. It's been seeping coolant into the throttle body and in be engine...
And when i pulled the TB off, I found all sorts of coolant basically caked in there. I cleaned what I could and shot a lot of Seafoam inside to hopefully loosen more.
I have done all does test and i get 30 ohms and 12v on the harness and i still get the p0505. I even bought a new IAC but no luck. I also tested the continuity from the harness to the ecm and it was good. What can it be?
Its on a 97 Mitsubishi eclipse gst
James Jimmy Did you erase the code and it keeps coming back on?
CarsNToys yes i erase the code and do a drive cycle and the same code comes up. I need to clear it to pass smog.
James Jimmy The only thing I can recommend is see if you can get your hands on the factory repair manual. Maybe there's something else to look at on your Mitsubishi. Out of curiosity, any other trouble codes?
nope only the P0505
Great video!
Michael Muro Thanks man. Appreciate it.
+CarsNToys Saved me a good chunk of change! Turns out my problem was an intake manifold gasket. $12 fix Vs $79!
my car idles like crazy and stops on me its a 96 nissan maxima if i clean ghe iac will it help i cleaned first half of my throttle but didnt take it fully apart to clean.other side any tips? i really need to fix this
Any trouble codes?
+CarsNToys yes i have a check.engine ligbt i need 3 replacr.my.Egr.tempersture sensor? can it do.with that
I have a 04 Ford Freestar that will act like it's running out of gas at first cold start. Fuel pressure is fine. If I hold RPM's at 3000 or more for a minute it will be fine but RPM's at idle are jerky. No check engine lights are on. Sound like the IACV to you?
Thanks
+Paul Brownfield I'd check the iacv and pcv valve
I have a 94 ranger 4.0 that has a very bad idle. Also when I hit the brakes hard it stalls out but only if its low on gas. I can replicate the stall every time but only when its getting close to e. If it has a quarter tank or more, it will not stall at all Sometimes when im at a stop it will jerk. Not sure if thats related. The iac valve looks super clean almost looks brand new. The only code its throwing I looked up and its mass af sensor which I already replaced. Also I can smell that its running very rich.
WaterWhipin Sounds like the fuel pump pickup is toward the rear of the fuel tank. When you're low on fuel and nail the brakes, the fuel is being forced away from the fuel pump pickup point and stalling out. Try to keep enough gas in the tank or you can burn out the fuel pump. The fuel acts as a lubricant for the pump. Regarding the rough idle, first thought is the idle air control valve. Other areas to look at include the fuel pressure regulator. EGR valve and PCV valve (I have videos for both) or you could have a leak at the air duct causing the MAF code. A bad idle can take some time to diagnose.
CarsNToys thanks for the response. I have good fuel pressure, im not sure if thats an indicator for needing a fuel pressure regulator. I checked for vacuum leak couldnt find anything. I got the truck a year ago and the guy told me about the issues the truck had and I asked him if it might be the fuel pump he said that he replaced it but Im not sure how long ago or if it was installed properly. Thanks for the ideas ill give those videos a look
Good luck. Scotty Kilmer has a bunch of videos regarding vacuum leaks and stalling vehicles. Just do a search under his page.
Excellent video, very helpful, a mechanic told me that after a replacement, The computer should be reset? it is a mitsubishi outlander 2003. is this neccesary? how reset the computer?
subbed. good clear explanation
Thank you. Glad to help.
CarsNToys hey mate. I've changed this, ECU, air flow. and yet it still idles at 2200 when cold! the coolant icv kicks in when warm but when it's cold it's high revving. it's a 92 Mitsubishi Pajero ( Montero ) 3.0 v6. any ideas? thank you
CarsNToys it's reads 12.6 volts at those terminals to.
in Nissan sentra 2003 should idle valve axle go out or go in after switching on because I have rpm problem and note that my idle valve work opposite the video '''putting car on universal computer found no DTC ,,,my idle rpm 1000 and fluctuating while driving if I release petrol pedal on gear
Instead of a replace an entire IAC, along with all the coolant chambers, can I just remove the two screws and replace the coil portion by itself?
If it's replaceable on your vehicle, absolutely.
+CarsNToys yep. I have to buy the entire piece, but it is easier than removing the entire throttle body to get to it.
OH! Thank you!!
Hi David, in my car, the coil part is easier to remove than the entire IAC. I did a test, the harness was getting 11v, some pins on iacv was having 30ohms while some had 29ohms. While car was idling(though rough idling), I unplugged the iacv harness, i didnt notice any change. If I change only the coil, will the effect be same as changing the entire iacv?
I'm getting the code to suggest mu iacv us bad. When changing out the iacv am I required to install a new ecm? I've read in several place I should, but your vedio didn't suggest it. Btw, I talk your video as gospel as you do amazing work. One last thing I have a 97 infiniti i30 if that matters. Thanks.
Bobby Gee Thanks man glad to help. No need to install a new ecm if the IACV is the only issue.
+Bobby Gee Did you get this fixed? You need to check the ECM if its bad also. When the IAC goes bad, it shorts out the chip in the ECM (this is a common occurrence in maximas and i30s). You'll see a burned chip if you take out the ECM. GL
I tested the IAC VALVE like you did in the end of video. And it only move left to right not out and in. Does it need replaced? Can I send you a video of what it does so you can see what it does thanks.
Yes need to replace
I dont get any code.if its plug in car idle vere low when braking en dies somtime,but when i startup idle very good.
Now i unplug it an never dies anymore or no low idling but keeps idleing high.idle at almost 2000 rpm in P or N in D it stays on 1100 rpm
Thank you,big help
+anthony You're welcome.
heres my situation, i have 2003 toyota camry 4 cylinder and it wont idle after my battery is disconnected, any recommendations?
z9099 It doesn't idle after the battery is disconnected?
i will disconnect battery, then reconnect, and my car will not idol and shut off
Any trouble codes?
not that im aware of...i dont have a scanner if thats what your asking
Primary causes for vehicle shutting off is fuel pump, injector(s), idle air control valve and the ignition circuit. For your particular case, I'd start with the idle control valve. Also check the pcv valve.
does the iac valve cause symptons of
1. high rpm over 1000
2. low rpm 1000 or less
3. car shakes when its on
4. lack of power like if the car wants to shut off while you driving it or not driving it. ???
5. motor feels weak like if it dont wanna stay on feels like if it want to shut down??
6. can it also cause battery to die out also??
sorry just curious to know
please help me on this one.
thanks for your time and patience
god bless.
Great video. I tried to remove the iac from my car but I stripped one of the screws. Any ideas to get it removed? Tried using pliers but couldn't get a good grip to loosen it up. Thanks in advanced!
Great videos. I have a P0505 hard code which I believe has something to do with either the ISC motor and/or ECM. But before I fix this code and spend lots of money, I noticed that all four of my readiness monitors are NOT complete. I understand the procedure to reset these readiness monitors, but do I need to repair this P0505 first BEFORE I can run the readiness monitors? Is there another option or procedure to reset these readiness monitors first?
I know I can get several other codes when the four readiness monitors are run, but is there a way to reset these monitors so I have an idea of what else is wrong with my vehicle? I don't want to spend money to repair code P0505 ONLY to find out other codes later when the readiness monitors are run. Please help.
Thank you for your informative video. In regards to the last step, how can I supply power to the IAC without removing it completely (since mine is part of the throtle body assembly) using a multimeter to see it actually mechanically moving? Thanks.
MrDoNHS You can supply power to the valve and you should hear the valve turn on and off. Give that a try.
Dear guy, My Mitsubishi Galant year 1990 has a problem the rpm not stable in idle. When give load like AC ON or Head Light ON or move the wheel steer
the idle rpm will run rough up and down excessivelly and sometimes the engine shut down by it self. I already changed the Idle Valve sensor 2 times and check the resistant is ok. The output power from the plug is 12.5 volt, but the problem still exist.
I checked the movement of the Idle Valve sensor plunger but it movement was only shaking and not extend or retract.
Is the ECU bad ?
Please your suggest.
Thanks alot.
John Purwanto, Tangerang City, Indonesia.
Wow! Very nice e video!!!
I'm not sure what vehicle you're working on, but I'm working on a 1997 Maxima and I'll be darned if it doesn't look identical.
Good Morning, I have a 95 Maxima. Does the Idle Air Control Valve always give a code? Car is not registering any codes. Have to pump accelerator when car has sat over night, rough idle at red lights. If I move it to neutral, car smooths out. Car runs ok once I'm not longer at the idle. Any ideas what could possibly be the problem? Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.
kfjones58 Not necessarily. You can have an IACV going without a code showing. Rough idle can be a number of things. Try cleaning the throttle body with throttle body cleaner. Also check the pcv valve and egr valve. I have vids for both. Just search my page. If you still have problems let me know
Thanks for your response. I took it to Nissan for a diagnostic. They came back with Misfire coming from #6 injector is not spraying. Do you think this could be the problem also? I have an appointment for Tues to have it replaced.
I have a 01 ford Explorer everytime I slow down and stop it's chokes out and stop. a lot say it can be this . can that be the issue
+Dominique Williams Sure could be. If it turns out to be okay, other things to check is the mass air flow sensor - ruclips.net/video/ewjO9JVr8NU/видео.html - fuel and ignition system.
I checked mine with just turning the key and now im getting a check engine light that i did not have before so what do think happened?
my 98 acura idles for like 5 seconds then immediately shuts off. while its on you don't hear any rough noises. but you do smell gas. any suggestions?
+Key Monteiro I answer your question here ruclips.net/video/Eps7jk05aWw/видео.html
So I have a 99 gmc sonoma. And she runs great. But! Every day coming home from work the rpm surges when I'm doing over 70mph. My gmc does not have the check engine light on or any other. And when the rpm surge happens she has power. No transmission slip she takes off and when I step on the gas it goes down to normal speed but continues to surge.