What a gentleman, you have pros in that business and you have others.. Well done, carefully covered all the basics.. Wish you much success.. Thank You for the excellent vid, and clear no nonsense business approach.. Too good... BTW, I didn't go through all the videos yet, but this must be very close to the Sentra for the same year which I have.. Thanks again..
This is really the best video of IAC valve replacement I been looking around a hour video to explain how to do this kind of replacement and this is the real and he show very very explicitly how to do it Hey thank you so much buddy
@@JunkyardJunkie what I mean is many types of nissan engines use this type would it work for these types I know that it blows the idle IC on the ECU when stuck.
Nissan Primera 00- 01 have the same jar(pan) and iac valve. The TPS unit is also identical. Occasionally a malfunctional TPS is mistaken for a lousy IAC unit.
No, you do not have to change the ECU. Unless your ECU has gone bad and is causing it. which isn’t the case usually. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
hey bud i just got a new ECM the IAC went bad and it fried , its a 2001 infiniti i30 im gonna install the new EMC and a new Oem IAC im gonna unplug it from the battery install everything then do a relearn procedure you think thats all im gonna need to do i only have that one code P505 that thats iac . The old EMC got opened and a chip that controls the Iac was burt bad and couldnt get repaired . let me know if theres any steps im missing im doing this next week when the part come in . thanks
Hey sounds like you got it figured out. The only thing I would add is if the computer burnt because of the IAC I would make sure all the wiring to the ecm is fine. Reason being you don’t want to throw it in and it zap it right off the bat. Other than that you should be fine. Good luck and let me know how it goes. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Whatsup Bro! I appreciate the video. I have a nissan maxima 2000 GLE V6 3000. For about 2 weeks now i have noticed that my car wont start unless i give it gas. Once i do that it starts running good until i slow down or get to a stop sign or stop light, then it completely shuts off. Thats when i would then turn car on and press gas pedal, and then quickly change gears to D, so car runs again.I used scanner to scan for codes and i get P0720 output shaft speed sensor circuit. P0100 Mass or Volume Airflow Circuit, and P505 Idle air control system. What do you think might be causing my issue? And what do you recommend me to do? I heard cleaning all those parts would be ideal before buying the parts since its cheaper.
Mine doesn't have a replacement gasket, and gasket no longer exists to order... old one had some kind of white gummy material that came apart unevenly when opened apart, just like when you pull an OREO cookie apart and have white stuff unevenly on both pieces... i just cleaned the i.a.c.v and squished it back to gether without removing the stuff since no gasket available. Now park and neutral idle needle flutters up and down intermittently withing 50 to 100 rpm of normal, and i can feel it slightly thumping when it does, and hear it out of tailpipe, like tiny "bump, bump, bumpbump, ...bump..." sounds. Car smooths out when in drive gear for some reason..?? Fuel mileage was cut in HALF too when it started, terrible. What do you think? Is it even related??
That’s strange it defiantly should come with a gasket. But the way you’re talking I would think the bumping is it skipping from misfires. Any check engine codes? Any other things to go off of?
It can have sporadic idol, dying at stops, not starting and etc. they can be finicky and give too much or not enough air but when giving it throttle it should bypass the issue as it doesn’t have to go through the IAC. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching!
I been asking a lot people to look at my car and you just told me wats wrong with it and how to fix it... I just want to be sure... I have a 2001 Nissan Maxima that jerks between 0-20 mph after that it's fine but wen I'm driving the rpm be bounce up nd down like it's shring.. I want to make sure before I start working on it...wat you think it is... I was told I need a Shriner another person told me I need a new idle air valve
So with your symptoms it could be the idle air control valve but I would recommend diagnosing it first before replacing. Two things to try one clean the throttle body it may just have a bunch of carbon build up. Then I would also disconnect the battery for 10 mins and reconnect just to make sure it wasn’t just a small glitch. Also if you have a scan tool I would look and see what your fuel trims are doing while this is happening see how the MAF and everything is doing and if it looks in range. Good luck and hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
So the swirl control valve is a different part but it’s pretty easy to get to on those cars. I would change it out first because it could be that as well. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie okay, I also have another question, so one of the codes is for the actual swirl control valve the other is for the” swirl control valve solenoid valve” which should I replace? I will say I realized my swirl control valve was not plugged in & so I plugged it in but it’s still doing the same thing. I also read there’s a “switch” sensor too. Any idea where I should start?
A lot of things could be the reason including a sticky idle air control valve. Do you have in codes with it? Also I would look at your fuel trims see what they are doing when it happens. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this video. My idle is fluctuating up and down while stopped in drive but not while in park. Difference of about 1-200 rpms. Very consistent. Like 750 down to 500 then back up every 5 seconds. This is a mystery. Any thoughts?
Do you have your ac on low? If so it’s probably going up when the ac kicks on and the goes back down when it kicks off. Which is normal. Thanks for watching!
Hmm very interesting. What does your short term and long term fuel trims look like while it’s doing this? Another quick thing to try is cleaning your MAF sensor.
I have a p0505 code and the idle is barley high. Sometimes it will go to 1000 when I first start it and when I drive and press in the clutch the idle shoots up and down slightly but fixes its self. What is this??? A dirty sensor or a faulty ecu ??
Sounds like it wants to work I wouldn’t jump straight to the ecu. First thing I’d check is the valve itself make sure it’s not junked up with stuff. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
My IACV was replaced, still getting p0505 but idle was fixed, doesnt shoot up randomly, But when i start the car if i dont add gas it will shut off. Im assuming the code is due too carbon build up on the throttle body
It has a electric throttle body. If you follow the air duct from your air filter you’ll see it where it attaches. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
That is not a 1995 iacv. It's totally different. You might want to change your dates :). Thanks. I tried to post a pic of the actual iacv that I had just bought for my car. 1995 nissan maxima, but there's no where to post a pic. sorry.
Looks beginner friendly, thanks for sharing.
Glad I was able to help! Thanks for watching!
What a gentleman, you have pros in that business and you have others.. Well done, carefully covered all the basics.. Wish you much success.. Thank You for the excellent vid, and clear no nonsense business approach.. Too good... BTW, I didn't go through all the videos yet, but this must be very close to the Sentra for the same year which I have.. Thanks again..
Hey I really appreciate it. That means a lot. Best of luck. Thanks for watching!
honest a life saver thanks for making this
I’m glad I could help! Thanks for watching!
Great job again! This is one job I’ve actually done before, you did a great job explaining it!
That’s awesome! I bet that was rewarding. Thanks for watching!
This is really the best video of IAC valve replacement
I been looking around a hour video to explain how to do this kind of replacement and this is the real and he show very very explicitly how to do it
Hey thank you so much buddy
Thank you that means a lot. I’m glad I was able to help. Thanks for watching!
"This one time at band camp" joking with ya..good video.
Haha
Very nice!
Thanks! Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie you’re welcome! Turns out my issue was just a intake hose.
Well I’m glad you were able to figure it out!
Great job man
Thank you! Thanks for watching!
Hello. Is it necessary to reset the throttle valve during such a replacement?
Do the coolant lines leak when you disconnect them?
Yes, they will leak just a little. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Thanks so much
Glad I could help! Thanks for watching!
Could all Nissan IACV work with the same shape/design
They could but they won’t. They make good money on new parts so they rarely keep designs the same. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie what I mean is many types of nissan engines use this type would it work for these types I know that it blows the idle IC on the ECU when stuck.
Instruction valid for A33.
This process is pretty similar across all cable controlled throttle bodies a. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Nissan Primera 00- 01 have the same jar(pan) and iac valve. The TPS unit is also identical. Occasionally a malfunctional TPS is mistaken for a lousy IAC unit.
I’ve heard you also have to replace the ECU is that true?
No, you do not have to change the ECU. Unless your ECU has gone bad and is causing it. which isn’t the case usually. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie no problem great video
hey bud i just got a new ECM the IAC went bad and it fried , its a 2001 infiniti i30 im gonna install the new EMC and a new Oem IAC im gonna unplug it from the battery install everything then do a relearn procedure you think thats all im gonna need to do i only have that one code P505 that thats iac . The old EMC got opened and a chip that controls the Iac was burt bad and couldnt get repaired . let me know if theres any steps im missing im doing this next week when the part come in . thanks
Hey sounds like you got it figured out. The only thing I would add is if the computer burnt because of the IAC I would make sure all the wiring to the ecm is fine. Reason being you don’t want to throw it in and it zap it right off the bat. Other than that you should be fine. Good luck and let me know how it goes. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie thanks man I’ll let u know how it goes
Sounds good!
Whatsup Bro! I appreciate the video. I have a nissan maxima 2000 GLE V6 3000.
For about 2 weeks now i have noticed that my car wont start unless i give it gas. Once i do that it starts running good until i slow down or get to a stop sign or stop light, then it completely shuts off. Thats when i would then turn car on and press gas pedal, and then quickly change gears to D, so car runs again.I used scanner to scan for codes and i get P0720 output shaft speed sensor circuit. P0100 Mass or Volume Airflow Circuit, and P505 Idle air control system. What do you think might be causing my issue? And what do you recommend me to do? I heard cleaning all those parts would be ideal before buying the parts since its cheaper.
You can clean them before buying them it won’t hurt. But ya it’s most likely your idle air or mass airflow. Best of luck. Thanks for watching!
Mine doesn't have a replacement gasket, and gasket no longer exists to order... old one had some kind of white gummy material that came apart unevenly when opened apart, just like when you pull an OREO cookie apart and have white stuff unevenly on both pieces... i just cleaned the i.a.c.v and squished it back to gether without removing the stuff since no gasket available. Now park and neutral idle needle flutters up and down intermittently withing 50 to 100 rpm of normal, and i can feel it slightly thumping when it does, and hear it out of tailpipe, like tiny "bump, bump, bumpbump, ...bump..." sounds.
Car smooths out when in drive gear for some reason..??
Fuel mileage was cut in HALF too when it started, terrible.
What do you think? Is it even related??
That’s strange it defiantly should come with a gasket. But the way you’re talking I would think the bumping is it skipping from misfires. Any check engine codes? Any other things to go off of?
What happens when the IAC SIR does not work well?
It can have sporadic idol, dying at stops, not starting and etc. they can be finicky and give too much or not enough air but when giving it throttle it should bypass the issue as it doesn’t have to go through the IAC. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching!
I been asking a lot people to look at my car and you just told me wats wrong with it and how to fix it... I just want to be sure... I have a 2001 Nissan Maxima that jerks between 0-20 mph after that it's fine but wen I'm driving the rpm be bounce up nd down like it's shring.. I want to make sure before I start working on it...wat you think it is... I was told I need a Shriner another person told me I need a new idle air valve
So with your symptoms it could be the idle air control valve but I would recommend diagnosing it first before replacing. Two things to try one clean the throttle body it may just have a bunch of carbon build up. Then I would also disconnect the battery for 10 mins and reconnect just to make sure it wasn’t just a small glitch. Also if you have a scan tool I would look and see what your fuel trims are doing while this is happening see how the MAF and everything is doing and if it looks in range. Good luck and hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
I’m having the same surging problem but I’m getting the code for the “Swirl Control valve” would it still be worth it to change it? It’s P1131 & P1130
So the swirl control valve is a different part but it’s pretty easy to get to on those cars. I would change it out first because it could be that as well. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie okay, I also have another question, so one of the codes is for the actual swirl control valve the other is for the” swirl control valve solenoid valve” which should I replace? I will say I realized my swirl control valve was not plugged in & so I plugged it in but it’s still doing the same thing. I also read there’s a “switch” sensor too. Any idea where I should start?
What causes slow takeoff and backfiring issues at times
A lot of things could be the reason including a sticky idle air control valve. Do you have in codes with it? Also I would look at your fuel trims see what they are doing when it happens. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie P1130
Check this out www.justanswer.com/nissan/2qvth-2001-nissan-maxima-3-0l-code-p1130-cold-start-hesitates.html
Thank you for this video. My idle is fluctuating up and down while stopped in drive but not while in park. Difference of about 1-200 rpms. Very consistent. Like 750 down to 500 then back up every 5 seconds. This is a mystery. Any thoughts?
Do you have your ac on low? If so it’s probably going up when the ac kicks on and the goes back down when it kicks off. Which is normal. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie It does it when the AC is off. When the AC is on it doesn't do as much.
Hmm very interesting. What does your short term and long term fuel trims look like while it’s doing this? Another quick thing to try is cleaning your MAF sensor.
Did you need to relearn the throttle on this particular vehicle?
No, but there is a procedure you can do. but, I’ve replaced a bunch of these and never had to use it. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
I have a p0505 code and the idle is barley high. Sometimes it will go to 1000 when I first start it and when I drive and press in the clutch the idle shoots up and down slightly but fixes its self. What is this??? A dirty sensor or a faulty ecu ??
Sounds like it wants to work I wouldn’t jump straight to the ecu. First thing I’d check is the valve itself make sure it’s not junked up with stuff. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
My IACV was replaced, still getting p0505 but idle was fixed, doesnt shoot up randomly, But when i start the car if i dont add gas it will shut off. Im assuming the code is due too carbon build up on the throttle body
It would be safe bet to clean it. I’ve also seen them pop codes or have small issues if you don’t buy oem. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Hey, I just did this exact same job but Im having problems getting my idle back down to around 750. Mine is up around 900. Any thoughts?
I would try the relearn procedure.
www.nissanhelp.com/diy/maxima/projects/2000_2001_nissan_maxima_idle_air_volume_learning.php
Where excatly is it in a sentra 2013?
It has a electric throttle body. If you follow the air duct from your air filter you’ll see it where it attaches. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
That is not a 1995 iacv. It's totally different. You might want to change your dates :). Thanks. I tried to post a pic of the actual iacv that I had just bought for my car. 1995 nissan maxima, but there's no where to post a pic. sorry.
Your right the 95-03 maximas are almost exactly the same. But they did change the IACV in the 2000-2003. So good pointing that out.
@@JunkyardJunkie Looks exactly same as a 2002 Pathfinder- well explained-Thx
Really wish it was attached to the throttle body on the 4cyl as well, but nope. Opposite end of the intake & underneath stuff, because Nissan.
Manufactures always seem to make things difficult but what car do you have?
Funny how easy his plugs came out lmao
The plugs to the throttle body? They shouldn’t be hard to remove?
How to adjust the idle on this throttle body please?
Your headlamps need serios too fresed up..see not much of road in the dark
It’s not mine. but I do agree a good sanding and polishing would be good idea. Anyways I hope the video helped. Thanks for watching!