Rough Plumbing Pipe Layout, Gas And Dryer Vent For 850 Square Foot Two Bedroom House - Part Six
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- Опубликовано: 17 авг 2020
- www.homebuildingandrepairs.co... Click on more information about home building and design projects that could inspire you to build your own house. This is part six of the series and information about installing rough plumbing to build a single story 850 square-foot two-bedroom home. Keep in mind that these videos are only meant to be used as examples and might require engineering and other modifications required by your local building authorities.
850 Square Foot 2 Bedroom House Video Links
Design And Building Tutorials - Part One - • 850 Square Foot 2 Bedr...
Building Foundation Plumbing Drain Pipe Layout - Part Two • Building Foundation Pl...
Building Foundation Forms, Rebar And Anchor Bolts - Part Three - • Building Foundation Fo...
Wall Framing Tutorial And Tour - Part Four - • 850 Square Foot Two Be...
Roof Framing Tour - Part Five • Roof Framing Tour of O...
Rough Plumbing Pipe Layout, Gas And Dryer Vent For 850 Square Foot Two Bedroom House - Part Six • Rough Plumbing Pipe La...
Exterior Wall Framing Details And Close Up Views - • 850 Square Foot Two Be...
Interior Wall Framing Details And Close Up Views - • 850 Square Foot Two Be... 
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A viewer pointed out that the arm going from the laundry trap to the vent needs to have at least 4 inches between them to prevent creating a crown vent. As a framer I always wondered why plumbers had to drill through multiple wall framing studs for laundry drains and now I have a pretty good idea why.
These are the best construction videos I’ve ever seen bar none. Incredible way to see everything and how it all comes together.
Wow, thanks!
I love your modeling! It makes these topics so much easier to understand! I learn a lot from your videos! Thanks for the great work!
I always enjoy hearing comments like yours and you're welcome.
Great video, very detailed and easy to understand.
honestly this channel is a tradesman dream.. thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and expertise .. fantastic channel
Always glad to hear and keep learning.
Really enjoy watching your videos.
Thank you for clearing some of this up .I am using your ideas with the exception of a stackable washer/ dryer and then putting a water heater in there. Thanks again.
You're welcome and glad you got something useful out of the video.
This is awesome! Thank you for going through step by step. I live in an apartment now, but one day I would love to build a small house. This video really helps an amateur builder (like myself) wrap their mind around how the whole plumbing/gas system works as a whole.
You're more than welcome and thanks for the kind words.
Excelent video 👍
Cool good job! I'm hooked!
Glad to hear it!
Thank You. This was a great video 👏👍 it is a big help.🙄
You are so welcome!
Great video. Quick question. If I’ve already got the metal roof on before starting to do my rough in pluming and wanted to connect all the vent pipes together and not go out the roof, can’t I just 90 over and come out the side of the home under soffit ? Thanks!
This is amazing. Thank you.
You're very welcome!
This is amazing!
I think so also.
Thanks!!!
Most new Clothes Dryers are recommending the maximum run for the vent to be 5', mine vents directly out the exterior wall of my home. In the design of the house I mentioned in the previous plumbing video it vents from the right side of the dryer directly out the exterior wall. The vent in your design can create trapped lint and fire issues. I am not for putting the machines in interior rooms what so ever. I have seen a house burn down because of the vent for the dryer rising to the roof of the home. I also design the heating and cooling equipment in a closet as they used to be for easier access especially during the Hot Arizona summers. This keeps the AC guy from having to crawl into a sweltering attic!! Everything is electric to eliminate gas vents throughout the house. The design I made has one single 4" plumbing vent leaving the roof, otherwise the roof is completely clean, the Air Conditioning Compressor is ground mounted. Again much easier access for repairs! I always try to compact the plumbing footprint by placing those rooms back to back to not only save in initial plumbing cost, but using less square feet to which the plumbing has to take up. The two mechanical rooms one above the other houses all plumbing, kitchen sink on the left side including access to the water line for the refrigerator ice line, The other side bottom floor is from center of the house: Guest bath sink, then toilet, then washer, then dryer. Upstairs it is the master bath sink, toilet and tub/shower. The water heater being electric requires no vent and is in the first floor mechanical room. The heating and AC are installed in a small closet with-in the guest bath. This provides a direct straight run for the duct work for the first floor and up to and again a straight run for the second floor without using too much space. There is no natural gas used on the property. Even the AC Compressor is in a rear portion of the Garage behind the kitchen door area and vents horizontally through the wall to that covered patio. This prevents anyone from tampering with the unit, and keeps it out of the weather, concealed as to not be an eye sore.
This is the first time I heard anything about dryer vents being larger than 4 inches, but 5 inches would definitely be better.
@@gregvancom I think Gregory Miller was referring to a distance of 5' rather than a diameter of 5". As a side note, that 5' length seems short to me, but I'm replying to toss in a word of caution about sizing up from a 4" diameter dryer vent pipe.
I am currently wrestling with an interior dryer install that runs about 17' to an outside wall. I just wanted to mention that I was considering going with a 6" diameter dryer vent pipe for the run across the ceiling, however, was warned against it due to a loss of velocity to actually carry lint. While the hot air will flow easier, velocity is needed to "blow" the lint out. If the pipe is too large, thus reducing velocity, the lint tends to drift down and collect. As a side note, I spent many years at a large Fire Department. Nothing is more responsible for house fires than lint! The collection of lint is what will cause the dryer to eventually overheat and in far too many cases either ignite the lint or simply cause the appliance to catch fire. Your tip about a "cleanout" at that first 90 to clear the vertical wall pipe is awesome advice. Keep up the great work, I have learned a lot from your videos.
Thanks very educative video
My pleasure
Greg, This is an awesome video, Thanks a lot. There is maybe an issue with the Laundry drain. You got a crown vented trap, It's a code violation, it'll be siphon trouble, the P-trap will fail, and the sewer gas will come into the house.
I see what you're talking about and will put a note at top for viewers. I couldn't find it in the international plumbing code book, but found it in a few others and it could be an issue to consider and thanks for helping me help others. I got to learn something today.
Hello very informative video ... what do you think about studor vents/mini vents? What applications do you like them in and what scenarios do you not? Obviously geared towards a remodel scenario ... thanks look forward to hearing your thoughts on it
I would rather have a standard vent like the ones you see in the video, but as long as your local building department allows them, then go for it.
It looks like you will have to drill holes in the sides of your cabinets to accommodate the drains.
Great videos. Subscribed. Are new houses plumbed with Pex now? I’m building an apartment in my shop and think Pex will be easier to use for an inexperienced builder like myself.
I would agree.
Hello and thank you for great video!! I had a slab leak and have to reroute my cold line from garage to upstair bathroom. I would like to use copper pipe. Is it possible to run 1/2" copper pipe through 2x6 studs 16" oc apart with total length of 10'? Or PEX is better in this case?
It shouldn't be a problem, but you can always check with your local building department for more information.
ey bro can you do a video like this but icluding all the measurement of each place were the water gas and pluming goes
Hey great video!! I wanted ask how you vented the dryer gas exhaust? Not the lint vent . Which was one of my concerns with my project. Wasn't sure about how to vent the lint vent from interior wall, so thanks for the info on that !!!
Sorry in advance if you already answered elsewhere!
The lint and exhaust for gas usually run in the same vent.
@@gregvancom wow ok , thanks !
Hi! Great videos! I have a question about floor drains. I realize that you guys in North America don't use them in any area of the house. Here (LatinAmerica) Is requiered by code to have at least one in every bathroom, kitchen and utility room, to avoid flooding problem in any eventual problem with any fixtures. Public and private projects. So my question is how the codes handle those issues about floor draining?. Thanks
From what I gather, it's an unnecessary expense, but I also heard stories suggesting that they were originally installed to drain waste or overflow from fixtures that became clogged, but instead were used to make cleaning easier, but this doesn't make sense either, because you could pour the waste from cleaning down the toilet drains. Then there's my best guess that make sense to me and that might have something to do with the lack of water in the trap, because unlike a sink, the water could evaporate and allow sewer gases to enter the room.
@@gregvancom hello, after I wrote the previous comment I started reading online about the subject, because it's very interesting. For us would be "crazy" not to include the floor drains in the plans, but for you guys is the opposite, even aesthetically would look bad. So after reading about it I came to this conclusions: 1- It is mostly about costs associated with more plumbing. 2-Our projects, public and private are built with concrete slabs, you're never going to find a floor with wood joist or anything like that. the finishing are always with tiles, granite or similar materials, which is easier to create the slope for the floor drain, I guess when you have plywood, sheating, etc, it's more complicated in that matter. 3-as codes don't require it, the typical American plumber isn't going to install one. 4- most of the damage in wood framed houses is caused by plumbing leaks between the floors, and therefore would not have been prevented by a floor drain.
@@gregvancom your videos are great and educational. thanks
@8:39 Why aren't the cold/hot pipes in the same run? Are there benefits to separating?
They can be, but I was locating them in the most convent sections so I didn't need to drill through any more framing components than necessary.
Can you combine the vents so you only have one going through the roof?
Yes you can'
@@SvenK-CAD Thanks
Yes usually in the bathroom you can combine the 2, above the flood line and vent them up together
Definitely and it looks like R.T. already answered question. I've seen it done plenty of times where the bathtub and the sink vent ties into the toilet vent. The bathtub in the sink vents can be inch and half diameter pipes that tie into the larger 2 inch pipe. Just don't have larger pipes connecting into smaller pipes. Let me know if this doesn't make sense.
DJ Humphries Yes, combine them. And then route them to the rear of the house, so as to have minimal roof penetrations somewhat out of sight.
Why do all of your drains come out of the wall at an angle? Supply lines in the attic are a terrible idea...
The drains can come out at 90° angles, but I like to install them this way to keep the drains as straight as possible. I was also wondering why you believe water supply lines in the attic are a bad idea.
gregvancom I figured that would be the explanation for the drains. I can go with that logic, but I’m the kind of freak that wants everything (even the stuff that no one sees) to be symmetrical and pretty.
As for supply in the attic... That’s the worst part of the house for climate control. When a line freezes, it will spread all over the ceiling, run down walls, then onto the floor. Never mind the fact that in certain places it can rain down into electrical and/or expensive electronics. In the summer your cold water will be warm and in the winter your hot water will be cold. Obviously that can be addressed with attention to insulation, but many builders suck at properly insulating houses. Even if the insulation is up to the job, you are also more likely to experience rodent damage in the attic. I’m a big fan of running plumbing in crawl spaces. There is far less chance of expensive water damage when all of your pipes are under the house. Second best option would be in a slab. That makes renovation projects more difficult, but build the house you want to begin with and let the next guy worry about renovation hurdles.
athhud With slab construction, running water lines overhead is not an issue. Especially in warmer climates such as Florida.
Sean M Florida is across the street from my house. People around here have burst pipes left and right the 3 or 4 days of the year that we get a really cold freeze. I’m sure South Florida is not a problem, but in North Florida you would have rain coming from the ceiling in the typical house. Insulation practices are a joke in this region. I don’t know anyone that has built a slab house with plumbing in the ceiling. If you are building on a slab, put the plumbing in the slab and never worry about it again... Obviously that requires a lot of work to remodel, but no one builds a house to remodel. Put the pipes in the slab where you want them and let the next owner worry about remodel struggles...