Hi. Thanks for the video was very helpful ! My question is how tight do the air lines have to be I understand you say the o rings are what make the seal however my lines all seem tight on but with little effort they will just keep spinning with the spanner and not get tighter to where it wants to come to a stop, so is this correct and fine, or do I have a problem there, thanks 👍
You should feel resistance as the fitting tightens. If you can keep spinning it freely it is either not threaded on initially or the threads have been stripped. Maybe remove the fitting and double check that the threads are still in tact.
If you remove the fuse, and the car sags, does this definitely mean the struts are worn? What about the seals at the valve block? If they’re letting by then you’ll get the same effect, no? I’ve got this job to do on the rear of my wife’s car, so the video is useful. Thanks
The benefit of removing the fuse is that it will somewhat highlight where the leak is occurring (not definitive but a place to start). With the fuse in, the vehicle will auto-level as it loses air, so for example if the front valve block was leaking but the rear block was okay, you couldn't tell which was the problem because the vehicle would drop pretty uniformly. With the fuse out in that scenario, only the front would drop. Similarly if a single air spring is leaking, with the fuse out only that corner will drop...etc. Again, just a place to start.
I found the rebuild kit on eBay but you can find them on Amazon and elsewhere. You can most definitely just buy a new (re-manufactured) air valve for not much more $, if you don't want to deal with rebuilding it yourself. You can find new air valves for about $50.
Hi. Thanks for the video was very helpful ! My question is how tight do the air lines have to be I understand you say the o rings are what make the seal however my lines all seem tight on but with little effort they will just keep spinning with the spanner and not get tighter to where it wants to come to a stop, so is this correct and fine, or do I have a problem there, thanks 👍
You should feel resistance as the fitting tightens. If you can keep spinning it freely it is either not threaded on initially or the threads have been stripped. Maybe remove the fitting and double check that the threads are still in tact.
Thank you for posting this. Very helpful!
If you remove the fuse, and the car sags, does this definitely mean the struts are worn? What about the seals at the valve block? If they’re letting by then you’ll get the same effect, no? I’ve got this job to do on the rear of my wife’s car, so the video is useful. Thanks
The benefit of removing the fuse is that it will somewhat highlight where the leak is occurring (not definitive but a place to start). With the fuse in, the vehicle will auto-level as it loses air, so for example if the front valve block was leaking but the rear block was okay, you couldn't tell which was the problem because the vehicle would drop pretty uniformly. With the fuse out in that scenario, only the front would drop. Similarly if a single air spring is leaking, with the fuse out only that corner will drop...etc. Again, just a place to start.
Nice truck.. I have a 05 ..
Thanks for the vid. Two questions. Where can I find the replacement o rings? And if I wanted, could I just buy a new air valve? Thanks 👍🏽
I found the rebuild kit on eBay but you can find them on Amazon and elsewhere. You can most definitely just buy a new (re-manufactured) air valve for not much more $, if you don't want to deal with rebuilding it yourself. You can find new air valves for about $50.
hello. where did you buy oring kit?
I bought the o-ring kit off of eBay.