Stihl MS 261 Top End Rebuild | Step by Step Instruction
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- My 261 was having difficulty with hot starts. Compression test revealed low compression. Thus, I made a step by step instructional video on how to rebuild the upper part of the motor.
Aftermarket Rebuild Kit I Used:
amzn.to/3zjG9Gy
Piston Ring Compressor:
amzn.to/3xqQikc
Head Gasket:
amzn.to/4eGBH4K
Contact Me:
Contact.OldSoulMillennial@Gmail.com
(Disclaimer) As an Amazon Associate, I earn a small commission from anything purchased in the amazon link(s) posted in this description. I use these funds to purchase new gear and reinvest into the channel. Thank you! 
Хобби
Rebuild Kit Used: amzn.to/3LSTkkF
Piston Installation Tool: amzn.to/3WSbWYr
Stop using Stihl oil. Stuff really does suck. Really sucks your saw gave out in just two years. Great video learned a lot thank you
soooo many people document this. what many are finding is Honda hp2, belray hr1 and motul 800 seem to be best performers. 50 to 1 -- some like 40 to 1.
I want to ask what are the different parts between stihl ms 261 non-mtronic and stihl ms 261 cm.
good job.
Compliments to the cameraman!
Great Rebuild Video. I’must subscribed
AMSOIL is the best oil in my opinion... I am 14 and have a 261 C-M and many other saws and machines. That's what they all run.
@@OliverDiGeronimo009 What oil-gas ratio do you run? I’ve been using 50-1, but I think I’m going to switch to 45-1.
@@OldSoulMillennial 50:1 is all you need for stock saws.
My uncle bought 4 brand new stihl 261c mtronics and his laborers blew em all up using the 50.1 ratio. Im going to go through all of them and see if i can salvage em.
@@FastandFoody Definitely worth rebuilding if you have the time. My cheap aftermarket piston and head are holding up very well. Now running 40-1. Still runs very clean.
Only use the best 2 stroke oil. It is expensive but rebild your chainsaw is more expensive.
@@stefanlageambecker6077 The rebuild kit I used was 45 bucks.
I have read that the you can remove some of the plastic ribbing on the underside of the shroud to make the flat fin cylinder fit under a slant find shroud. Did you explore this option? Do you think it would work? I’m looking to get a slant fin that was straight gassed and rebuild it and was wondering. Great video. Well done camera work.
Thanks
@@dibiase9502 In my case, I had to heavily machine the cooling fins, and grind some of the case ribs. Takes about 2 hours. If you have more time than money, do what I did. I think I explain it in the video reasonable well.
Excellent video
Great vid Sir through out, machining building etc...........................definately no commercial BS here !.................subscribed and massive like you gotta be one of the best on the you tube platform, thankyou for your time
The reason the cilynder doesn't fit properly is because Stihl came up with gen 2 cilynder called slant fit wich is supposed to give a couple more HP and less cooling fins in aprox. 2016-17 . The gen 2 is almost available only from Sthil and was in there saws at the time of change giving a bit of weight lost and lower profile cost lots more $$ I have the gen 1 bought in 2014 with the straight cilynder. Very nice video!!
@@123456773934 So gen 2 has more power and less cooling fins? Sounds like gen 1 was manufactured too well. Had to ensure something would fail!
Ran the saw hard today, and performed very well. Switched to 42-1, no smoke so I’m going to stick with that ratio.
If I ever have to rebuild again, are you aware of any aftermarket gen 2 heads?
Why use the decompression button its only 50cc
Why wear a seatbelt, its just a car
@@OldSoulMillennial it probably caused your problem
@@hidhshsj123 Please explain your logic. Are you suggesting it was just a bad decompression valve? I didn’t look for leakage there. I think I would have noticed air bleeding out when doing the compression test.
I use the decompression valve to reduce shoulder strain.
The decompression button saves on many things. Reduces pull starter wear/pull string wear, reduces starting strain. I have a Stihl 261 and I use it. Nothing wrong with using the decompression valve. The decompression valve is awesome.
@@videocardzrule354 Agreed, I don’t know what this Karen commenting above is smoking.
bad choice of cylinder kit! way too much cooling fin area removed. you should have bought a meteor kit. 1/2 the $ of oem kit. i did not have to do anything to the fins on the one i used for my 362. not sure on the 261, i used a hyway kit on that one. i had to remove some of the ribs on inside of cover and a small area of cooling fins. both saws i bought off ebay with blown top ends. i run synthetic at 40:1. used to run 50:1. too dicey
@@davidgoliath982 Even after removing the fins as shown in the video, there is still around 20% more cooling fin surface area on the aftermarket head than on the OEM head. Definitely going to switch to 45-1 or 40-1.
@@OldSoulMillennial ya but most was removed from exhaust side. the oem cyl. is designed in a specific way to be efficient with less material to reduce weight and cost
@@davidgoliath982 Well the OEM design failed me after 2 years. I’ll take my chances with this 42 dollar kit.
@@OldSoulMillennial the oem failure was not likely due to the design or the quality. it is almost always operator error. the oil may not be adequate and or the jetting was set too lean or a possible small air leak. also it is not likely that the porting in that budget cyl. replicates the oem porting that well. that has been my experience. i mean it might but........ chances are it will not have all the power it should which may not matter much depending on the type of use
@@davidgoliath982 My argument is that the failure was absolutely due to design and quality issues. I bought a professional grade saw with the expectation that it should last over a decade without needing a rebuild. I used stihl brand recommended synthetic oil. I did not adjust any carb settings until the rebuild. How can you claim operator error when I’ve followed all of stihls reccomendations. Hell, I even let the saw warm up a minute at idle prior to pushing it.
I’ve always been a stihl guy, but I don’t see any excuse here.