Isn't he great, Shawn? Nick has worked on a few of my things (the Carver C-4000, for example) and I can't say enough about his cool professionalism and dedication to detail.
Hey Nick, just wanted to say that I love your videos and have shared your channel with a few other repair techs who now also are subscribers. Appreciate your good work
when replacing those lamps with leds i sometimes had the problem that they were powered off AC especially in sansui and marantz units as they only run off half a cycle and got no filtering, they flicker at 50/60hz had to add a recitifying diode, cap and resistor to fix this. bonus:..a big enough cap also had the benefit of simulating the lag of a incandescent bulb by fading out when turning it off. a resistor before the cap also gives it a slight fade-in effect. matte / diffused warm white leds were indistinguishable from incandescent lamps then.
There's a seller on our fave portal making LED replacements for these units, featuring a smd rectifier and a dropping resistor right on the tiny board of the lamp itself. Warm white versions are spot on and you cannot tell the difference. Couple of years on from the first unit I adorned with these, no problems and no further heat related damage to already brittle, plastic casings.
I picked up a Trio of Yamahas at a GW like, idk, 8 years ago now? An M-2, C-4 and T-2. I totally stole them! lol They all needed some bulbs and I got LED's. I did the C-4 and man, they were waaaaay too bright, so I held off on the M-2. I think I put an incandescent in the T-2 , I can't remember. Maybe I'll go with your bulb scheme for the M-2 and redo the C-4. And I can tackle the stupid mono switch sticking that is making the C-4 unusable. I think it's also causing a channel to drop intermittently.
hi nick...i have yamaha m2 amp...my spendor s100 has 3 inputs on back of speakers...low , mid , high...so i had yamaha m2 high and lows on channel A and lows on channel B...never any problems sounded great... now today i go to hook up a Rel sub high level red to right A+ channel Yellow to B+ channel and black to right negative A-...all of a sudden no sound from channel B...on the back I turn the left volume gain control and it workd but the right volume gain and nothing...I thought maybe the Rel sub shorted out a fuse...i took gront pannel off and can' see any of those fuses out...is there another place i don't see where a fuse may be blown out❓
I am the owner of this amp. Everything is working perfectly! Thanks Nick - great work as usual!
Isn't he great, Shawn? Nick has worked on a few of my things (the Carver C-4000, for example) and I can't say enough about his cool professionalism and dedication to detail.
@@TravelOutlook Yep, the dude knows what he's doing!! Rock on!
Hey Nick, just wanted to say that I love your videos and have shared your channel with a few other repair techs who now also are subscribers. Appreciate your good work
Thanks Nick! I always enjoy your videos, and even more I like the way you share your line of thinking as you move through the repairs.
Great video.thanks . I learned a lot, and that's always fun . Great old Amp.
You are a excellent tecnician
Very informative and thorough.
Another great video!! Keep up the good work!!
Great video. Why didn’t you set the bias and offset or replace the know troublemaker fusable resistors?
when replacing those lamps with leds i sometimes had the problem that they were powered off AC especially in sansui and marantz units
as they only run off half a cycle and got no filtering, they flicker at 50/60hz
had to add a recitifying diode, cap and resistor to fix this.
bonus:..a big enough cap also had the benefit of simulating the lag of a incandescent bulb by fading out when turning it off. a resistor before the cap also gives it a slight fade-in effect.
matte / diffused warm white leds were indistinguishable from incandescent lamps then.
There's a seller on our fave portal making LED replacements for these units, featuring a smd rectifier and a dropping resistor right on the tiny board of the lamp itself. Warm white versions are spot on and you cannot tell the difference. Couple of years on from the first unit I adorned with these, no problems and no further heat related damage to already brittle, plastic casings.
Keep rockin!
Good to hear from you Tommy
I picked up a Trio of Yamahas at a GW like, idk, 8 years ago now? An M-2, C-4 and T-2. I totally stole them! lol They all needed some bulbs and I got LED's. I did the C-4 and man, they were waaaaay too bright, so I held off on the M-2. I think I put an incandescent in the T-2 , I can't remember. Maybe I'll go with your bulb scheme for the M-2 and redo the C-4. And I can tackle the stupid mono switch sticking that is making the C-4 unusable. I think it's also causing a channel to drop intermittently.
hi nick...i have yamaha m2 amp...my spendor s100 has 3 inputs on back of speakers...low , mid , high...so i had yamaha m2 high and lows on channel A and lows on channel B...never any problems sounded great... now today i go to hook up a Rel sub high level red to right A+ channel Yellow to B+ channel and black to right negative A-...all of a sudden no sound from channel B...on the back I turn the left volume gain control and it workd but the right volume gain and nothing...I thought maybe the Rel sub shorted out a fuse...i took gront pannel off and can' see any of those fuses out...is there another place i don't see where a fuse may be blown out❓
been a while.
I hear ya. Wish I could do this full time. Or even part time. Not enough time in the day.
power light is orange not white...I'll never understand why people is obssesed with freraking leds...
because their lifespan is literally thousands of times that of an incandescent lamp? lol
It's not your amp. Why do you care? Feel free to adhere to your preferences with your property, and feel free to leave others to do the same.