FIRST ASCENT on America’s Highest Big Wall (14,255')
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
- After 4 summers and more than 50 days of effort, Chris Weidner and Bruce Miller established Gambler's Fallacy (5.13b), a new route on North America's highest elevation big wall.
Directed by
Jon Glassberg
Video
Jon Glassberg
Jessica Talley
Edit
Jon Glassberg
Original Score
Micheal Wideburg - Fizzix Productions
Met these two at the trailhead before hiking to the Diamond with my partner, not realizing who they were at the moment. Both were extremely kind and humble, asking what we were climbing and seemed genuinely interested and excited for our adventure. When we asked what they were up to, Chris responded casually with "oh you'll see us playing around over by Hearts and Arrows." (Another incredible FA on the Diamond completed by the 2). After out of earshot, I turned to my buddy and excitedly said they have to be working on a crazy hard new free route. Sure enough the next day we saw them working the 13b pitch; watching them pull off that heinously hard kneebar in the alpine was amazing. We topped out and were hiking out as it began snowing, and they were still up there showing no sign of calling it a day. Extremely inspiring accomplishment by two great people
I met them as well earlier this summer, descending the Cables Route after climbing the Casual Route and had the same experience. Extremely humble and and very interested in what we had climbed that day. We had our ropes already set up for rappel and they were very grateful to use them. Top notch humans.
Cool story bro. And not the kind of sarcastic version of that expression lol
@@pmgephart I don't know why people feel the need to emphasize that a person who is mildly famous or even people who are extremely famous our humble kind and nice. it's like dude they're just people man. I think that's why people feel the need to emphasize those points is because they expect him to be some kind of snobbish God. and of course they'd be interested in the route to climb because that's how climbers are and climbers are usually humble cool and interesting people because we spend our time in nature near the walls you know? Not trying to be a dick head but I just see these comments all the time when it comes to people meeting someone with like I said mild fame or extreme fame
barrel dreamz humans really are all human
@@barreldreamz7852
In my experience I've yet to meet a climber who wasn't grounded and humble. Maybe it's the UK trad thing, but I think climbing and safety require realism and judgement.
What they don't talk about is the endless hiking up to the diamond for each attempt. Gotta wear ya out just on the miles of approach time after time. Awesome work! I love Longs
Fun Fact: Chris has climbed up to 14b, so this 13b wasn't nearly at his limit grade-wise, but certainly multipitching at altitude was a stiff challenge. BUT... Bruce Miller (his belayer) sent this climb a few weeks later for the 2nd ascent, and it's the first 13b Bruce has ever done! Now THAT is badass!
Climbs like this deserves more attention.
Yeah I like these kind of 'unpolished' short movies
In all the different disciplines, I feel like big free routes are the most impressive sends. The exposure, the drama, I am just in awe. The athletes that climb in this realm are cut from a different cloth. 👍
So it's not just your feeling it's the truth!! That is purely some impressive athleticism on every level.I think I could definitely do some big wall climbs and I dream about it all the time but the thing that holds me back is that I'm able to climb up to the whole 5.13 range and I've come close on some 5.14 a's but when it comes to crack climb I can barely climb anything in the 5-10 range and it appears to me that almost all big wall climbs require some form of crack climbing. So that's what holds me back. And I've tried so hard to get good at crack climbing and if put a lot of effort but I just fail and it's just technique is where everything comes to play when it's cracked climbing
100% agree and this is coming from being predominantly a sport climber.
"My toes are pumped" lol
Jim Detterline would be proud.
Congratulations.
Whenever an LT11 film pops up, I am always excited to watch it. I like things that are beautifully made and tell a story well. Nice one Jon!
👆👆👆Yeah whatever this dude just said!!!! 🤣🤣🤣🧗🧗🧗
Unusual soundtrack choice -- kind of fairy garden shimmery. Good choice against all that rock and snow. Just different.
The cinematography on this channel is always just so fantastic
Great achievement creating a new route!
Beautiful film, short and sweet. Thank you.
New LT11 film? A big wall? At least 1 of 2 Weidners? Yep... that's the best start to the week anyone could ask for.
Strong social distancing. Ain't nobody else gonna be up on that route haha
5.13 trad looks so easy after watching this.
HAHAHAHA 🤣
Way to go Chris! Very nice send and vid! Inspiring!
So inspiring, Chris!! Congrats to you and Bruce.
As always, fantastic cinematography and editing! Well done, Jon!
Such a great video! Chris is a beast and so disciplined with his training. Hard work pays off.
Saw the insta post and was so excited to watch this! Well done!
What a climb and what gorgeous scenery!
I climbed 3 flights of stairs twice today and I felt like a hero until I watched this. But my Mom thinks I'm cool, so, yeah.
This was so badass. I love this area more than any in the park and seeing someone devoting so much time and energy into accomplishing something great here makes me super happy. You guys rock!
So much respect brother, i could feel the sense of accomplishment. I hope to feel that some day! Pulling over the lip and hugging your partner, it really is a team effort that must be experienced
Congrats boys... that was a beautiful film & accomplishment. I live in the shadow of Longs, what a beast
What a nice video, to me it's the perfect definition of a classic climbing. Wonderful job here!
Absolutely amazing.
well done, great film.
Well done.
Climbing was pretty good too.
Beautiful filming.Well done !
Great music selection and filmaking!!
Honest and heroic!
Can’t wait for my trust fund to kick in! Looks epic
Congrats!
Intense climb and looks fun.
Really pleasant and quietly inspiring film. Thanks for the hard work boys!
Increíble gran ascenso y excelente grabación, felicidades!
That was rad. Great shooting.
Freaking rad! My toes are pumped from watching. 😅
Amazing, these type of climbs really make me wonder what I could accomplish I just put my mind to something
Loved how this was filmed. You really felt the difficulty and presence in some shots.
Amazing accomplishment!
So happy for you buddy!!!
man I need friends like these so I can learn to climb this Congrats!!!
Beautiful climbing in amazing scenery. And such nice rock. It sure is a nice change from all those videos that show climbs only the 1% can do. This one would make you excited to be on the route yourself (well, except that run out on trad great on the first pitch 😨).
Lovely editing!
Great job boys!!
You guys are animals done alot shit in my 55 that's unreal endurance is nuts
Now those are real climbers !!!
Congrats !! 💪
This was really well done
Now let's see Heather Weidner on it!
damn this climb looks badass.
Bravo!
Alpine free climbing, the hardest part is hauling those 50lb balls of steel the whole way!
AWESOME!!!
This is amazing, I feel like I am actually there particupating in the climb!
Looks like a 3-star route!
If he had fallen on like pitch 9 and then come back the next weekend and sent it would that count still? honestly curious. If you fall you can lower to the start of the pitch and restart too, is that correct?
So damn beautiful!!!!!😍😍😍😍😍 Okay so I have climbed some 5.13 d's outside and I've gotten close on some 5.14 a's. And I'm not trying to sound super cool and strong because I'm just saying tobesides that I am a strong climber but when it comes to crack climbs it's like I just started. I swear man I've never even been able to come close the climbing a 5.11 crack and I really struggle with all crack lines in the 5.10 range. I really wish I was a lot better at crack climbing because then I could attempt some big balls because it seems like no matter what if you're climbing a big wall you're going to have to face some crack climbs. I'm just terrible at it and I've tried so hard for so many years with not much progression. But hopefully I'll get there one day
How did you film it??? With a super steady Drone???
WHAT A VIDEO
You legends!
bravo!!!!!!
That's quite a climb....
That place is no joke
What si the yellow strap he's held onto at 1:49? I never saw this kind of stuff...
Is it me or is the "sunset" at the end actually a video of the sunrise in reverse? Ain't no expanse of plains to the west of Longs. I get that they needed the symbolism though.
MEGA!
Saw my first moose on that mountain, a huge bull
It's realllllly steeeep.
Spiderman's probably holding the camera😂
M
This video needs more Bruce...
yeah I get tired walking at 14000'
Who the hell disliked this
Doesn't ELCAP have like 30 pitches to top out ,3000 ft of strait big wall ,
1:16 - stepping on trad gear
I will admit that it does look that way, but I know Chris well and there is no way he'd step on gear and call it a clean lead. My assumption is that he is very close to the gear, but not on it and that is the more likely conclusion.
@@BillWright We all make mistakes. Even if he did step on gear, I suspect it was unintentional and he didn't even realize it.
@@YosefShuman Yes, that is possible. I'll ask him the next time I see him.
Maybe not intentional maybe just footage for sake of making the video but not the send. Climbers tend to be honest people because its not like they make 5 millions of saying it was a clean one. Or .. do they?
Phones wet
4345m
Uh...since when is pre-placing all the draws and some gear considered a "red point"? Are there no standards anymore? Why not just toprope the entire route and call it a send?
Always been that way when sport climbing
Pinkpoint is ded
First ascent, with camera above, chalk on the holds, and protections already in the crack ...
what's your point?
Yes, first ascent. They had just worked it the day before, hence the chalk (there has been no moisture in Colorado for weeks). I don't know the details about that one seemingly pre-placed pro in the crack, but, while tainting the ascent slightly, is a pretty common practice. Draws were also pre-placed. Leaves the door open for someone else to do it in even better style. I know Chris Weidner would be psyched if that happens. That fact that this is actually a first attempt to send (Chris had not led any of the hard pitches clean before this send!) is a testament to the great filmmaking here. They had one shot to get this footage and did a remarkable job. The film guy (John) used the fixed lines that Chris and Bruce had been using to work the pitches, but he had never been on them before and had to find them from Chris' description, which is no easy task at the lip of the Diamond.
Thanks for the valuable insight and firsthand knowledge of the climb, Bill. I perused the comments to see how many people want to try to take the ascent away because of the pre placed gear. But my question is more along the lines of… how long is the gear being left on these climbs as their being worked? Are they hiking to the summit or climbing other routes and traversing over to rap and set fixed lines and pro, or are they doing it ground up each time?
The route should've been called "Pink is the New Red"
I agree with you, except that Pink isn't the New Red. Pink was the New Red at least 20 years ago. I didn't like the re-naming of the term "Red Point." Now, instead, we have to say "Redpointed while placing all gear", which is so much wordier...
What a beautiful film and brilliant first ascent. If this guy spent 52 days on this project could we not have had more than a 6 minute film? Seems almost insulting to such a grand effort. You must have had tons of great film so why make such a short film? I’d have happily watched a 30 minute film about this. Disappointed.
Your disappointment is piss and the toilet is behind a bush on the shore of Hope Lake in the Boundary Waters
It was a beautiful short film and I'm sure a lot of work went into the filming and editing. Next time you film and edit something, you can decide how long you want it to be **shrug**
Ben Wales I film and produce my own vlog. I release two episodes every week. Usually around 15 minutes. And yes I do decide how long they are. I’m also very well aware of exactly how much work goes into making something like this. I’m a professional film maker myself. That’s why I pleasantly proposed they could have produced something that in some way reflects the amount of work that went into the climb. Because this does not.
Michael Wideburg is that supposed to be funny? Usually funny things make me laugh. I was being nice and writing a positive comment. The first thing I wrote was ‘what a beautiful film’. You reply with...........😮. Good job buddy. The world needs more of that. 👌🏼✌🏼
I think the length of the piece is perfect. Great film!
climbing with fixed pitons (from above!), simply, is not fairplay, my dear climbers... sincerely, a classical european alpinist.
p.s. i mean, it's a kind of false play, both with oneself and (divine) nature.
Clipping into pre-placed bolts including pre-hung quick draws counts as a 'first ascent'? Jesus, what has happened to climbing? I am sure it was difficult and required skill but what happened to the ethics?
So according to you, there's only been 1st ascent on El Capitan? From what I know Golden Gate, The Nose, Dawn Wall, El Nino, Zodiac had all pre-placed or fixe gear when they were free climbed for the first time.
As long as you are honest about what you did and don't chip, you have fulfilled your ethical commitment. There is almost always room to improve upon style, which is what you are talking about.