Thank you so much for making this video. The bearing in my stock extruder on my i3 mega has started locking causing the filiment to slip. Was looking for a new extruder but wanted one made of metal similar to the stock but upgraded. Figured they were the same as long as they mounted to the stepper motors and this video verified my hunch. Thank you!
I have gone through three replacement extruders, including one I waited for from the company - this worked PERFECTLY. Thank you for sharing and happy printing!
Hi, I want to say Thank you for this great improvment you suggest. I have tried so many aother solution to the retraction problem that I was suffering with my printer. I am very satisfied of I3 Mega but this was an issue was make me nervous some times. Now retracting is very precise and printer quality is improved a lot. I agree with the fact that with a small amoutn of money I get a very iudge results that do not expect ! I suggest to do it to all i3 Mega owners!
Anycubic i3 Mega tightening all screws inside and stepper driver was the first and only thing i did upgrade so far, was 1-2 years ago. the thing to upgrade/print first is the things that you tighten the belts with, had to plastic weld them together. This seems like a worthy upgrade
Great video!! It made me make the transition too. The Trianglelabs Dual Drive (BMG clone) is giving me issues with retraction. 1) the retraction noise is increased (as mentioned before in the comments, not a big issue) 2) When setting the retraction parameters above 5mm retraction distance and/or above 40mm/s retraction speed, the retraction fails to coop. I don't believe it is the Dual Drive but more the motor that can't handle the torque using a 3:1 ratio. Machine setup: I3 mega version 1.0 mobo (2019 with 2x Z-motor), Bigtreetech TMC 2208 v3.0 stepper drivers (Extruder motor Vref 1.2v) and the original Extruder motor. Software: Marlin-2.0-x-Anycubic-i3-Mega-v1.4.3_Feb2022_TMC_Trigorilla1.0_BLT from Knutwurst Anybody experienced similar issues and if solved, can you please share? Thanks a lot!
Place a fan behind it, I use it only in complex or long prints so I just tape it to the back of the motor and use a separate 12v power supply but probably there's a more permanent and tidy mod for that.
No I havent done any other upgrades although I might think about direct drive upgrade this year and some other mods. I just recently built a Voron 0.1 which is direct drive and its great - ruclips.net/video/yb5cPR8Fg0s/видео.html
I've upgraded my i3 mega s with a printed X-Carriage Mk4, replaced the leadscrew nuts with ones made of Delrin, added BL Touch, and am running Mainsail/Klipper on it and after setting up an accelerometer for resonance compensation and i can print 150mm/s+ easily. There are people printing with a similiar setup much faster. Only thing keeping me from going faster is its not direct drive.
Good explanation and it looks exactly like kit I bought. I will reverse the wires shortly to account for the direction change in filament feed too. But I wanted to check that you didn't need to change any motor e-steps setting?
@@ThisDesignedThat Used the Mega stepper motor, with original metal mount and switched motor wires, I ran this today on two sets of test prints. Without any firmware or estep changes (not that I know how to do the latter), the prints were fine. In fact I'd say overall they were slightly smoother than with the stock extruder mechanism.
Hey there! I saw this video and bought that dual gear extruder but am struggling with the best way to go about reversing the stepper motor rotation direction. The video link you provided has led a lot of people to more confusion and some people have fried their board accidentally. Would love to know how you did it since I also have an anycubic.
Hi Jazper. Yes still own it and cant wait to get out and take some pics. We have been locked down over 2020/21 in the UK and i usually use my camera when i am on holiday. Honestly i find it boring shooting film in my local area, no inspiration. Hoping next year we'll get a flight somewhere and will do another series with the rz67
OK, BMG clone arrived and I'll need to flip those wires - checked the other video which had some rather scary comments regards frying the mainboard if you get the wire swap wrong! Did you have to check Stepper motor coils to identify the pair to swap, or just go from 1234 to 1243 (or 2134)? Thanks.
Hi, i installed a trianglelab bmg clone on my i3 mega (not S) and while it works great, it is a lot louder when retracting than stock extruder..i use tmc 2208 and had enabled spreadcycle on extruder stepper. it was silent before..any ideas?
Ok ordered this as mine is worn out Can someone explain the tensioner and where it should be adjusted please to get right level of filament going through??
i just tighten it loosely and if i find its under extruding i'll tighten it slowly, quarter turn at a time until ive got good extrusion. It doesnt need to be tightened too much so be careful, if its too tight it will just eat through your filament if you have lots of retracts
I've installed mine and I didn't have to reverse my motor wires. But I'm wondering, am I supposed to change some settings in my slicer to get it to work since it's a different extruder? I'm finding that the Filament In is a lot slower than the stock extruder and the first print I attempted, it wasn't able to print anything.
@@wolfpack6262 I figured it out but the short explanation is that since we went from a single gear to a dual gear extruder we have to recalibrate or recalculate the e-step due to the reduction ratio of 3:1 and also the gear sizes are slightly different. For me personally, I ran "M8011 S0.00254524" as a .gcode file (paste that single command into a text file and save as .gcode and "print" it on your printer) and it will set the e-step value to something more suitable. That value 0.00254524 is something I calculated and then tweaked a little bit based on my results. The default I think is "M8011 S0.01079375". I'm actually not sure why OP didn't have to change their e-steps because that original extruder looks like single gear. If you want to know more details, here's "chitu g code explained": www.customize-3d.com/chitu-g-code-explained.html pastebin.com/3wGjsbfJ Not sure if my comment will get auto-swept for containing a pastebin link but this file is a translated version of what I received from Anycubic support and I believe a more recent version of what they have on customize-3d. And if you search for "M8011" you can find the comment with the formula for calculating it. The translation is rough but basically: (C/3200) / ratio C = circumfrence of your drive gear (the pinion gear on your motor shaft) ratio = 3, the reduction ratio of the BMG extruder I believe this value means essentially, mm extruded per step of the motor, so a lower value will result in more extrusion.
Thanks for the video, i want to reverse the extruder motor direction through sofware. Can you provide the pronterface command to do so? I have stock firmware on my anycubic i3 mega s. Thanks!
Thanks for your video. Performed the same update. First I had to calibrate the extruder, as 100mm extrusion just extruded 40mm in reality :-( Now I'm facing heavy stringing or rather retraction issues. Could you share your retraction slicer settings?
Von deinem Nutzernamen schliesse ich darauf dass du aus Deutschland bist. Hast du dein Problem lösen können? Habe genau dasselbe Problem mit dem extremen Stringing. Komme seit 3 Tagen nicht voran.
@@stefanhaupt4947ich baue den dann mal zurück. Es gibt bisher keinen den ich in den Foren angetroffen habe der dieses Problem lösen konnte. Danke für die schnelle Antwort
@@stefanhaupt4947Jap. Ich sage ja ich komme seit 3 Tagen nicht mehr voran mit dem ding. Auf Reddit und diversen anderen Foren wird dasselbe Problem beschrieben von einigen mit dem Dual Drive Extruder. Bei manchen reicht einfach nur die Montage und dann das Firmware Upgrade. Bei uns ist es leider etwas anderes und bisher gab es auch bei den anderen keine Lösung. Einer hat mir geschrieben dass er es zurückgebaut hat und alles lief wieder perfekt. So habe ich das jetzt auch gemacht und siehe da, es funktioniert tadellos
Tried this on my i3. I've installed this dual drive extruder on my printer but the prints are now coming out very low density. It's almost like the extruder isn't turning out enough filament. Any advice?
i know it can be done with some heavy modding, but i have never tried it personally. I have the Voron 0.1 for my ABS printing and im yet to need something printed in Nylon for any project im working on
I'm sorry I read you too late. I did it to my MegaX and the only thing you have to do is to reverse de motor's support. I mean, the stepper motor face outwards. And you don't need to change the wires.
@@ThisDesignedThat yes, I just pulled a couple of turns on the waist with the spring and it prints everything from PLA to flex filament of all kinds and softness without problems. pulling the screw too much with the spring, I squeeze the wire and it gets twisted inside
i believe the Mega S already has this upgraded extruder but if not then yes you can put any bowden extruder on this printer so these BMG extruder will work fine
@@ThisDesignedThat My Mega S has exactly the same a shown in 0:39. I have the Issue with it that when the print needs retract very often it begins to make a click sound. Do you think i can use the same extruder as you have shown here? im worried because of the gear transmission ratio.
If you change from a single drive to a duel drive you will also need to update firmware. Update your firmware to the mega s which will run the duel drive extruder Update using zip file and cura 👍
So how do I do that? Please provide the process necessary. I'm a total stranger to changing extruders and don't want to find myself halfway in and lost. Thanks 👍
no offense but this "upgrade" sucks. its much harder to do a "cold pull", also its a pain in the b to just slide filament into the bowden tube, after using it for a day I went back to the stock setup. great instruction video tho
Thank you so much for making this video. The bearing in my stock extruder on my i3 mega has started locking causing the filiment to slip. Was looking for a new extruder but wanted one made of metal similar to the stock but upgraded. Figured they were the same as long as they mounted to the stepper motors and this video verified my hunch. Thank you!
I have gone through three replacement extruders, including one I waited for from the company - this worked PERFECTLY. Thank you for sharing and happy printing!
happy to hear Blaine!
Thanks for the heads up on the S already having this
Hi, I want to say Thank you for this great improvment you suggest. I have tried so many aother solution to the retraction problem that I was suffering with my printer. I am very satisfied of I3 Mega but this was an issue was make me nervous some times. Now retracting is very precise and printer quality is improved a lot. I agree with the fact that with a small amoutn of money I get a very iudge results that do not expect ! I suggest to do it to all i3 Mega owners!
Hi Paolo, happy you had the same results as me from this upgrade
Your a lifesaver thanks for the link my cog just clicks and ive checked all the bolts.
Anycubic i3 Mega tightening all screws inside and stepper driver was the first and only thing i did upgrade so far, was 1-2 years ago.
the thing to upgrade/print first is the things that you tighten the belts with, had to plastic weld them together.
This seems like a worthy upgrade
Great review and advice, thank you.
Thanks for sharing buddy.
No problem 👍
Great video!! It made me make the transition too.
The Trianglelabs Dual Drive (BMG clone) is giving me issues with retraction.
1) the retraction noise is increased (as mentioned before in the comments, not a big issue)
2) When setting the retraction parameters above 5mm retraction distance and/or above 40mm/s retraction speed, the retraction fails to coop.
I don't believe it is the Dual Drive but more the motor that can't handle the torque using a 3:1 ratio.
Machine setup: I3 mega version 1.0 mobo (2019 with 2x Z-motor), Bigtreetech TMC 2208 v3.0 stepper drivers (Extruder motor Vref 1.2v) and the original Extruder motor.
Software: Marlin-2.0-x-Anycubic-i3-Mega-v1.4.3_Feb2022_TMC_Trigorilla1.0_BLT from Knutwurst
Anybody experienced similar issues and if solved, can you please share?
Thanks a lot!
same problem .. :/
Place a fan behind it, I use it only in complex or long prints so I just tape it to the back of the motor and use a separate 12v power supply but probably there's a more permanent and tidy mod for that.
Really good suggestion. Ordered one off amazon and that is coming today.
Have you upgraded the printer to direct drive ?
No I havent done any other upgrades although I might think about direct drive upgrade this year and some other mods. I just recently built a Voron 0.1 which is direct drive and its great - ruclips.net/video/yb5cPR8Fg0s/видео.html
I've upgraded my i3 mega s with a printed X-Carriage Mk4, replaced the leadscrew nuts with ones made of Delrin, added BL Touch, and am running Mainsail/Klipper on it and after setting up an accelerometer for resonance compensation and i can print 150mm/s+ easily. There are people printing with a similiar setup much faster. Only thing keeping me from going faster is its not direct drive.
Very cool upgrades. Im definitely going to have to make these to my i3. Have you got any links to all your mods?
Great video, thanks! Do you have to change the feed rate? Are the gears in the same ratio as the default feeder?
I didnt change anything except the firmware to Mega S
@@ThisDesignedThat Thanks!
Good explanation and it looks exactly like kit I bought. I will reverse the wires shortly to account for the direction change in filament feed too. But I wanted to check that you didn't need to change any motor e-steps setting?
I just installed the mega s firmware and havent had any issues
@@ThisDesignedThat Used the Mega stepper motor, with original metal mount and switched motor wires, I ran this today on two sets of test prints. Without any firmware or estep changes (not that I know how to do the latter), the prints were fine. In fact I'd say overall they were slightly smoother than with the stock extruder mechanism.
I'm using a transparent bmg clone like that. but it's having a very loud retraction problem.
Hey there! I saw this video and bought that dual gear extruder but am struggling with the best way to go about reversing the stepper motor rotation direction. The video link you provided has led a lot of people to more confusion and some people have fried their board accidentally.
Would love to know how you did it since I also have an anycubic.
hi, this should hopefully explain it - ruclips.net/channel/UCgT2z8r_q7wqDLfjigKWqJAcommunity?lb=UgzGk7QQdymoiTPRA6t4AaABCQ
Do u still own your rz67? I really enjoyed your photography content and would love to see some more in the future
Hi Jazper. Yes still own it and cant wait to get out and take some pics. We have been locked down over 2020/21 in the UK and i usually use my camera when i am on holiday. Honestly i find it boring shooting film in my local area, no inspiration. Hoping next year we'll get a flight somewhere and will do another series with the rz67
Awesome looking foward to the Videos
same
OK, BMG clone arrived and I'll need to flip those wires - checked the other video which had some rather scary comments regards frying the mainboard if you get the wire swap wrong! Did you have to check Stepper motor coils to identify the pair to swap, or just go from 1234 to 1243 (or 2134)? Thanks.
This video is completely useless without this information.
Hi, i installed a trianglelab bmg clone on my i3 mega (not S) and while it works great, it is a lot louder when retracting than stock extruder..i use tmc 2208 and had enabled spreadcycle on extruder stepper. it was silent before..any ideas?
not too sure about that issue im afraid
Instead of reversing the motor could you just install the extruder upside down?
genius!
Ok ordered this as mine is worn out
Can someone explain the tensioner and where it should be adjusted please to get right level of filament going through??
i just tighten it loosely and if i find its under extruding i'll tighten it slowly, quarter turn at a time until ive got good extrusion. It doesnt need to be tightened too much so be careful, if its too tight it will just eat through your filament if you have lots of retracts
I've installed mine and I didn't have to reverse my motor wires. But I'm wondering, am I supposed to change some settings in my slicer to get it to work since it's a different extruder? I'm finding that the Filament In is a lot slower than the stock extruder and the first print I attempted, it wasn't able to print anything.
Same problem here too. Any help, please?
@@wolfpack6262 I figured it out but the short explanation is that since we went from a single gear to a dual gear extruder we have to recalibrate or recalculate the e-step due to the reduction ratio of 3:1 and also the gear sizes are slightly different. For me personally, I ran "M8011 S0.00254524" as a .gcode file (paste that single command into a text file and save as .gcode and "print" it on your printer) and it will set the e-step value to something more suitable. That value 0.00254524 is something I calculated and then tweaked a little bit based on my results. The default I think is "M8011 S0.01079375". I'm actually not sure why OP didn't have to change their e-steps because that original extruder looks like single gear.
If you want to know more details, here's "chitu g code explained": www.customize-3d.com/chitu-g-code-explained.html
pastebin.com/3wGjsbfJ
Not sure if my comment will get auto-swept for containing a pastebin link but this file is a translated version of what I received from Anycubic support and I believe a more recent version of what they have on customize-3d. And if you search for "M8011" you can find the comment with the formula for calculating it. The translation is rough but basically:
(C/3200) / ratio
C = circumfrence of your drive gear (the pinion gear on your motor shaft)
ratio = 3, the reduction ratio of the BMG extruder
I believe this value means essentially, mm extruded per step of the motor, so a lower value will result in more extrusion.
@@B-U-N-N-I thanks a lot, I have the same problem, can't wait to try your trick hoping for the best, but aniway thanks in advance!
@@B-U-N-N-I thx. Trying to solve underextrusion problem with your info
Thanks for the video, i want to reverse the extruder motor direction through sofware. Can you provide the pronterface command to do so? I have stock firmware on my anycubic i3 mega s. Thanks!
I know it can be done in the firmware but I dont have experience doing this sadly so i cannot help
Thanks for your video. Performed the same update. First I had to calibrate the extruder, as 100mm extrusion just extruded 40mm in reality :-( Now I'm facing heavy stringing or rather retraction issues. Could you share your retraction slicer settings?
Von deinem Nutzernamen schliesse ich darauf dass du aus Deutschland bist. Hast du dein Problem lösen können? Habe genau dasselbe Problem mit dem extremen Stringing. Komme seit 3 Tagen nicht voran.
Nein, habe den Drucker seit dem nicht mehr verwendet. Da kommt nur noch Scheiss bei raus.
@@stefanhaupt4947ich baue den dann mal zurück. Es gibt bisher keinen den ich in den Foren angetroffen habe der dieses Problem lösen konnte. Danke für die schnelle Antwort
@@emirhan.41also meinst du das es mehrere Leute gibt, die danach die gleichen Probleme hatten. Das wäre krass
@@stefanhaupt4947Jap. Ich sage ja ich komme seit 3 Tagen nicht mehr voran mit dem ding. Auf Reddit und diversen anderen Foren wird dasselbe Problem beschrieben von einigen mit dem Dual Drive Extruder. Bei manchen reicht einfach nur die Montage und dann das Firmware Upgrade. Bei uns ist es leider etwas anderes und bisher gab es auch bei den anderen keine Lösung. Einer hat mir geschrieben dass er es zurückgebaut hat und alles lief wieder perfekt. So habe ich das jetzt auch gemacht und siehe da, es funktioniert tadellos
Did you need to re-configure the printer with new E-Steps given the different gearing?
No, it prints exactly the same for me.
417-418
Tried this on my i3. I've installed this dual drive extruder on my printer but the prints are now coming out very low density. It's almost like the extruder isn't turning out enough filament. Any advice?
You need to calibrate your extruder. There are many tutorials, they all show the same technique - actually the one anycubic explain on their site
Have you successfully printed ABS or CF Nylon through the AC Mega X??
i know it can be done with some heavy modding, but i have never tried it personally. I have the Voron 0.1 for my ABS printing and im yet to need something printed in Nylon for any project im working on
Changing the stepping of the extruder motor on firmware is not needed ? I know that dual extruder has differenti ratio
on Amazon it says to change e steps to 385 but i dont know how as in very new to this
Hi, I've a Mega X, have you an idea on what dual extruder could I buy? .. Thx for your vídeo
I'm sorry I read you too late. I did it to my MegaX and the only thing you have to do is to reverse de motor's support. I mean, the stepper motor face outwards. And you don't need to change the wires.
I got one but when I swapped the red over with the black it just spun real fast did not change it, changed it back and it still feeds wrong way
not sure why it would spin really fast, be sure to check you have the right wiring.
What wires did you have to switch? Couldn't find the video
Made an image for you to explain it - ruclips.net/user/postUgzGk7QQdymoiTPRA6t4AaABCQ
I have also mounted it, I have improved with the pla but for the tpu it is worse the wire gets tangled inside the extruder
with this extruder i managed to print Flex, tpu and ninjaflex filaments with great success. The problem is the calibration of the tension spring
Thanks for the info did you loosen the tension spring or tighten for printing flexible?
@@ThisDesignedThat yes, I just pulled a couple of turns on the waist with the spring and it prints everything from PLA to flex filament of all kinds and softness without problems.
pulling the screw too much with the spring, I squeeze the wire and it gets twisted inside
Hi is the mega s exstuder a straight swap? Thank Leigh
Yes
Where is the video for the how to of reversing the motor
in description
Is that gunk glue stick on your build plate?
Yep, i use to clean it off but found the rough texture of the leftover gluestick helps with PETG bed adhesion.
Are the esteps the same
Update the firmware to the mega s and it works great
Do the two wires pull out of the white block?
yes, if you are referring to reversing the motor direction
Is this extruder compatible with the Anycubic Mega X?
Yes I believe so, it works on many 3d printer models
You could have just told us the color of the wires instead of never deliver an extra video for that...
*each side, rather than either side. Either side is one OR the other. Each side means both
is there a link to the extruder?
sure, Aliexpress - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DC5wXWF
Amazon (US) amzn.to/3yT8b6f
Great video, but *you need to clean your bed.* Just use isopropyl alcohol.
i find petg sticks better to a coarser textured bed so i just keep it like this. I always had issues with petg and a clean ultrabase.
how do i screw the extruder to the motor?
Using the bolts that came with the original extruder
@@ThisDesignedThat mine were too short so I had to drill it so it gets deeper but worked out all good ty🙌
@@TyroneAli just did the same thing yeah, but now it's on there tight
@@sledge3581 yeah
Does this work for the Mega S model?
i believe the Mega S already has this upgraded extruder but if not then yes you can put any bowden extruder on this printer so these BMG extruder will work fine
@@ThisDesignedThat My Mega S has exactly the same a shown in 0:39. I have the Issue with it that when the print needs retract very often it begins to make a click sound.
Do you think i can use the same extruder as you have shown here? im worried because of the gear transmission ratio.
@@DoktorSkill yep you can use the same as I have shown here. I just installed the mega s firmware that you already have and Ive had no issues with it.
@@ThisDesignedThat But i do have to reserve the motor too?
@@DoktorSkill cant say for sure but if you have the mega s your wiring should already be correct
If you change from a single drive to a duel drive you will also need to update firmware.
Update your firmware to the mega s which will run the duel drive extruder
Update using zip file and cura 👍
Thanks for the tip!
So how do I do that? Please provide the process necessary. I'm a total stranger to changing extruders and don't want to find myself halfway in and lost. Thanks 👍
Can this Mega S firmware upgrade be done with both motherboards: 8-bit and 32-bit Trigorilla?
лучше обновление для Боуден экструдера - это установка директ экструдера.
Agree, but no, even the mega s and x have terrible extruder. It underextrudes like hell. Bimetal gear extruder takes care of everything.
Do you need to change any wiring or software or it it plug and play mate
no offense but this "upgrade" sucks. its much harder to do a "cold pull", also its a pain in the b to just slide filament into the bowden tube, after using it for a day I went back to the stock setup. great instruction video tho
never had issues with it, and definitely a better extrusion mechanism than stock.
Jesus, what is that crusty print bed....
Thats my diy textured steel bed. It actually works surprisingly well for petg