Electric Brewing Series - Part 2 Electric Brew In A Bag Build
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
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In the Electric Brewing Series Part 2 we will cover a simple Brew In A Bag System or BIAB. The components, what they are, what they do, and what you will need. Including all of the control panel components, BIAB kettle,BIAB bag, pumps and hoses, and counterflow chiller.
Find the complete parts list on our website including downloadable parts lists.
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link to the homebrewtalk thread with the wiring diagram:
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My vote would be that the next video be on a RIMS system! I am currently compiling parts for my own build.
Cool, let the voting begin!! Thanks for watching hope it helps you!
Cheers!
BIAB RIMS system has my vote. Thanks for all good info
Working on bringing more of this content. Thanks for the feedback! Cheers!
+1 for RIMS system build video.
Already ordered up the RIMS plans from Doug ;-)
Thanks for watching. Cheers!
Brau Supply actually sells a complete eBIAB system w/ controller utilizing the ezboil for a little over $800 plus shipping. I believe it can do 6 gallon batches and can be obtained in either 240V or 220V. Excellent videos btw. Working on building my own eBIAB system.
Thanks for the info. I hope the videos help anyone that is looking to get into electric brewing. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching!
Cheers!
Great Video! Just purchased the Grounded Brewing Technologies 240v 15 gal eBiab turnkey system after seeing your panel review. Very excited to start eBrewing! Cheers!
Awesome! Let me know how you like it!! I reviewed one of their panels too! Thanks for commenting!! Here is the review: ruclips.net/video/wo6ZDJAt1gU/видео.html
i just finished Doug's single element 2 pump drawing w/ the DSPR300 EZBoil, everything but the enclosure from Auberins. I wired the power wire right to the panel to same the cost on the extra plug. I will be installing the element with a weld in Hot Pod Element Enclosure from brewhardware along with a 1 1/2 tri clamp for the temp prob into my keggle. Great Vid keep it up!
Very nice. Congrats on the move to electric! Thanks for watching!
Cheers -Brian
Where do you find Doug's drawings? It sounds like you built something similar to what I want to do.
Great vid guys! Thanks so much!! I really like High Gravity's BIAB all in one system personally....after starting on a DIY build I went ahead and just decided to order that instead. We'll see how it goes
No denying they make nice systems. You don't save a ton of money building your own unless you source "cheap" components.. But that can have pitfalls as well. Let me know how the HG system is! Cheers! Thanks for watching! 🍻
Love the content. Clawhammer supply looks like they have a E-BIAB rig going now for under 600$.
Yes!! They have what looks to be a great system at a great price. Supposed to do a review on the new system in the near future. Thanks for watching and commenting! Cheers Peter! 👍🍻
Clawhammers 240 v system is 1400+
Johnny Vestal you would be correct. I don’t know what I was looking at, they did have some kickstart options I saw. I must have got confused.
I am also interested in more information on a RIMS system. Specifically a system that can handle 5 through 15 gallon batches. Thanks for the info, Cheers!
Those EZboil from Auber are very nice! Makes power control easier and internal programming ready for brewing just makes the process even easier. What are the dimensions of your control panel enclosure? Thanks
The one I am building in this series.. I have not measured...mine in my brewery is 16X12X8 if I remember right.. I will have to measure to confirm.
Is it possible that you make a video that explains the use of a craftbeerpi setup?
I have thought about it, since someone finally asked about it (You 😉) I will see what I can do. I already have a raspberry Pi.. Cheers! 🍻
That would be very nice! I am planning to build one myself but I could use little guidance😊
No shame in needing a little guidance.. I can't tell you how many times I read The Electric Brewery. Com website before I built my first control panel!!! I must have spent a month researching! So I know where you're coming from. Pretty much the entire reason why I started doing videos like this. Cheers Danny! 👍🍻
Yes that's exactly what I'm doind right now, also purchased the manual of the electric brewery. But I don't want to build an 'oldscool' panel, and I think it even might be easier in use and less expensive with craftbeerpi.
Cheers & I love your channel
Thanks Danny!
Do you see any issues with placing the temp sensor in the return on the lid instead of the body of the kettle? Any advantages to either?
My only concern would be if you shut off before the element, the probe would not be reading the temp at the element. I think high gravity's systems are designed that way. Cheers!
Thank you for this, I've been looking for a little guidance beyond theelectricbrewery.com. Can you explain the lid return item above and how it get's added to the setup. I'm basing mine off of the High Gravity eBIAB setup but I'm having difficulty with how to setup the return. Also, is there a link directly to the circuit you had in the video?
I was just figuring on drilling a hole in the kettle lid and use the elbow and camlock as a bulkhead style fitting. (without silicone washers etc.) you may need a npt nut to secure it in place. The diagram is in a homebrewtalk thread listed in the description. Be sure to check out the wiring video in the series if you need any help with that.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Do you see any advantage of installing a spray nozzle under the lid instead of the barb fitting you mention?
Bart Mink with a BIAB system you are recirculating to maintain the mash temp. I have seen a few systems with sprayers. Not sure there is a big advantage for the additional expense. Not like you are fly sparging where you want to rinse the grains evenly..
That makes sense. Did I understand you correctly in that you install the barbed fitting under the lid and put on a small piece of hose? Or do you just let it free fall from the barbed fitting?
Bart Mink you could put a small piece of hose.. So you don't have channeling issues.
Can you put 2 elements for rapid boil?? More parts in controller... I know...
Sure you can always put two elements you just have to up your amperage capability of your panel. To be honest with you I 5500 watt element heats up 5 gallons of wort pretty quick. And it's not too bad with 10 gallons either. What bat size are you thinking of?
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers I'm just starting so just doing some research. Probably going to start with 5 gal. Batches. I like the idea of brewing indoors with electricity. Does anyone sell this kettle pre built already?! I just need the kettle to boil. No pumps needed.
Spike brewing sells kettles and will configure however you wasn't it. I assume you are going 240 volts?
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers can I use my dryer connection? I believe that 240?! I don't think it's gfi though?!??
NO definitely do not use the dryer connection. It is not GFCI. Depending on the age of your house and how it is wired you night have a neural wire in the outlet for it, most do not. You're are better to have a separate circuit ran and use a spa disconnect or a dedicated GFCI breaker.
Hi everyone,is there a reason the power switch isnt grounded?
Doesn't need to be. The box is grounded and the metal housing on the switch is attached to the box.
When I order an element or pump switch from Auber, do I need the 2NO switch or 1NO 1NC ?
Thank you.
By the way, great video!
That would be a 2NO switch. Thanks for the comments, and thanks for watching! Any other questions let me know. Cheers! 🍻
Thank for the answer! I do have one more question. All the control panels/elements are rated a 240v but here in Canada and as far as I know it's the same in the US, we only have 110v and 220v (dryer/stove) outlets. How does this work? I only need to have a new 240v outlet?
Yes 220 volts is essentially the same. Will not effect anything. Just make sure you are using a GFCI circuit. ( I know you probably are.. just want to make sure you are safe) Cheers Maxime! 🍻
So I could wire a whole "240v" control panel and plug it in a dryer outlet and be fine?
No you need to have a ground fault circuit installed. Your typical dryer outlet does not have a ground fault interrupter built into the circuit.
Hi. Great video series. 220/240 is new to me, and I have a question.
On the wiring diagram, once it is plugged in, and the element power switch is turned on, do you have 110 going to the element at that point (line 2 and ground), or do you not get any power at the element till the SSR turns on line 1?
You do not get power until the second "leg" of the circuit is connected. There is no neutral connected to the element so the circuit does not complete, even though there is a "hot" wire connected. Does this answer your question? Thanks for the comment, and thanks for watching!
Thanks. Makes sense. Guess I need to learn the difference between ground and neutral on a 240 system.
Yes Rob, always make sure you're safe I have seen in some older houses where the ground and the neutral are hooked to the same bar in the fuse panel they shouldn't be but sometimes they are. The ground in that system that I have shown here is grounding the element enclosure it's not actually connected to one of the power lugs on the element.
To be clear, ground should be bonded to neutral in only ONE place, the main panel. This is required and enforced by code, if this is not done the circuit breakers will not trip correctly. There are many great articles describing how this works and I highly recommend anyone building a panel read up and understand them.