The New Prince of New York Bespoke Tailoring??? Paolo Martorano Bespoke | Interview & Measurements

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  • Опубликовано: 4 дек 2024

Комментарии • 126

  • @SeanKling
    @SeanKling Год назад +62

    Paolo is freaking amazing! I am currently having a suit made by him and will continue this relationship. Knowledge that cannot be touched

    • @Joedirt3349
      @Joedirt3349 Год назад +4

      Bully! I say

    • @kirbyallison
      @kirbyallison  Год назад +27

      I’ve always respected his work from afar, but having now had the opportunity to sit down w him and experience the bespoke process, I’ve been thoroughly impressed. My first fitting was one of the most thorough first fittings I’ve ever experienced.

    • @SeanKling
      @SeanKling Год назад +3

      @@kirbyallison I am seeing him in Palm Beach at the end of October to pick up my suit. Gonna talk to him about another

    • @paulmcgee1867
      @paulmcgee1867 Год назад +1

      I am sure it will be great

    • @MaxSoininen
      @MaxSoininen 7 месяцев назад

      ​@@SeanKling out of curiosity, if you dont mind. How much does a suit cost?

  • @making838
    @making838 Год назад +12

    Paolo has a lovely demeanour. Really professional but also friendly.

  • @NickZivkovic
    @NickZivkovic Год назад +10

    Wonderful conversation between two gentlemen. Really enjoyed this; Thank you for sharing it with us.
    My cheeks almost got flush with emotion when Paolo talked about the etiquette he knew on the floor at Paul Stuart….we used to be a proper society. Now you can’t even run into a department store for a pair of sweatpants without worrying someone on the floor will spit on you because you’re distracting them from scrolling on their phone.

  • @penguin_edits
    @penguin_edits Год назад +13

    The descriptions he had during the measurements were insane, never seen any of the savile row guys do that. truly special insight into the process!

    • @kirbyallison
      @kirbyallison  Год назад +8

      Wait until you see the first fitting. Most thorough I’ve ever had.

    • @teekue
      @teekue Год назад

      @@kirbyallisonI wonder if he takes into account your forward leaning stance as we often see a slight collar gap on your savile row suits. I think this is due to you standing so upright when visiting the row, but we will have to see.

    • @Rebornxshiznat
      @Rebornxshiznat Год назад

      @@kirbyallison. I’m sold. Looking to get my first bespoke garment and living in New England I was considering huntsman in NYC. After seeing this I will be setting an appointment with Paolo

  • @stevecattani9545
    @stevecattani9545 Год назад +5

    I marvel the rate at which new content is generated here. Incredible channel, so much fun to watch.

  • @newinspiration2108
    @newinspiration2108 Год назад +9

    I've mentioned it once and am doing it again. If you're talking proper American bespoke tailor, you need to absolutely positively contact/work with Frank Shattuck. While he doesn't spend extra on Internet/marketing/online content, his knowledge and experience are 2nd to none. Most importantly, you love Dominic Casey's one-man shop from start to finish. Frank is the same - he is not a salesman. He advises, cuts, and tailors your garments all by himself from start to finish in the traditional way. His philosophy lines up with your "quality-craftmanship-tradition" motto. I'm surprised you haven't been in contact with him yet.

  • @qarhsi
    @qarhsi Год назад +6

    Finally some interesting content after such a long time!

  • @user-dq1kr6zc2t
    @user-dq1kr6zc2t Год назад +6

    Paolo! Finally! He is so talented. Make sure the suit is made by Zino ;)!

  • @walterrosales8025
    @walterrosales8025 Год назад +2

    I don’t know how I came across this but I’ve fallen in love with Bespoke in a matter of a day

  • @guitar911rock
    @guitar911rock Год назад +13

    Kirby, would be interesting for you to compare how each of your bespoke suit fits from all these houses. Interesting to hear about the differences and retail price comparisons

  • @MichaelSBetts
    @MichaelSBetts Год назад +5

    This is one of the best interviews/videos I've seen on your channel. Fascinating, arcane and personable all at once. Extremely well done. Thank you for this!

  • @TommyAngelucci1
    @TommyAngelucci1 Год назад +8

    Such an amazing video. Thank you, Kirby.

  • @davo1093
    @davo1093 Год назад

    Enjoyed this very much. Thankyou Paolo & Kirby.

  • @stephendondershine5761
    @stephendondershine5761 Год назад +1

    Fantastic, really substantive interview. I have to meet Paolo next time he’s in SF! More like this interview please.

  • @BIX-18827DCM
    @BIX-18827DCM Год назад

    Kirby this interview was superb. Love the demeanor of Paolo and his appreciation of history and process. He is young but so wise, excited to see you continue to work with this young man.

  • @txborn668
    @txborn668 Год назад +3

    I love to hear Paolo talk about fitting and looking at differences in the way someone stands or walks and the correlation between how he patterns the different parts or a suit. I'm guessing he would also take into consideration what undergarments someone would normally wear too. As in if someone always or never wears an undershirt and boxer's vs boxer briefs because of the extra material. Like I always wear an undershirt, even in the summer, and mostly wear boxers but occasionally boxer briefs which would make the waist slightly different, and the trousers hang differently also.

  • @krunoslavkovacec1842
    @krunoslavkovacec1842 Год назад +4

    The intro is the definition of slick 👌

  • @ikkitellitud3960
    @ikkitellitud3960 Год назад +3

    What a great and interesting interview! Congratulations to Paolo and Kirby 👏🏽

  • @jayess8714
    @jayess8714 Год назад +4

    Great video! Would love to see more videos of tailors doing measuring on you and describing their techniques more in depth :)

  • @maxdominate2481
    @maxdominate2481 Год назад +2

    Thank you for this channel, Kirby.

  • @thom-bennett-tailoring
    @thom-bennett-tailoring Год назад +1

    I walked past Paolo in London during the summer in Burlington Gardens. Being autistic I felt shy saying hello, I wish I had as he comes across as so approachable. Great interview, Kirby.

  • @mljones99
    @mljones99 Год назад +75

    Dude looks like a Chicago mobster

    • @jkranites
      @jkranites Год назад +11

      Yeah. If you don't pay on time he will strangle you with the measuring tape lol

    • @stevecfo1
      @stevecfo1 Год назад +2

      HahHa 😂

    • @jimhowes4505
      @jimhowes4505 Год назад +5

      Well, the Chicago mob is called ‘The Outfit.’ So maybe the guy just got confused about what sort of outfit he was getting involved with when he showed up at a tailor’s shop one day

    • @jfaycomedy
      @jfaycomedy Год назад

      Martorano is a big name in the gangster world. Spelled Matorano

    • @Canadas_Very_Own
      @Canadas_Very_Own 10 месяцев назад +2

      @@jimhowes4505 Actually a tailor shop as a Mafia front seems like something that could totally work.

  • @JuanSanchezGuerra
    @JuanSanchezGuerra Год назад +4

    Possibly the most impressive and best-dressed of all the tailors you have showed on your channel. Nice to see a distinctly American tailor.

  • @brucer6239
    @brucer6239 Год назад +3

    Yosel Tiefenbrun is also a young, Savile Row trained bespoke tailor in Brooklyn.

  • @jfar3340
    @jfar3340 Год назад +3

    John pizarelli with the guitar! Amazing!!

  • @skipgiblets
    @skipgiblets Год назад

    I enjoyed the discussion on the way NY bespoke came to be

  • @TYRETREAD
    @TYRETREAD Год назад +2

    Love the channel Mr. Allison

  • @brucer6239
    @brucer6239 Год назад +2

    Joseph Genuardi is a superb bespoke tailor…trained by an Italian master and spent a few years with Martin Greenfield…

  • @MurphyMurphh
    @MurphyMurphh Год назад +2

    Wonder when the Cuba trip will be uploaded

  • @paulmcgee1867
    @paulmcgee1867 Год назад +2

    Eric? Forgotten? I think there’s confusion between formal and comfort. Can they not go together? Great conversation and shared knowledge. Love the ending 👏🏻

  • @RamblingVlogger
    @RamblingVlogger Год назад +4

    Have I missed the last of Eddie’s bespoke suit fitting? I seen the second fitting but I haven’t seen anymore.

    • @kirbyallison
      @kirbyallison  Год назад +7

      No! It hasn’t come out yet!

    • @RamblingVlogger
      @RamblingVlogger Год назад +2

      @@kirbyallison thank you, can’t wait to see the next installment.

  • @terminalarray1047
    @terminalarray1047 Год назад +2

    Hey Kirby, what do you think of Oxxford bespoke suits? Worth looking into?

  • @joelabc
    @joelabc Год назад +4

    Hi Kirby, those Visconti 🖊️🖊️🖋️ look really nice

    • @kirbyallison
      @kirbyallison  Год назад +4

      They’re incredible! Just finished filming a video on all of them. Truly exceptional craftsmanship.

  • @frankmastromauro5630
    @frankmastromauro5630 9 месяцев назад

    Great video

  • @MrNikkertti
    @MrNikkertti Год назад +2

    Superb content and what a insightful guest with a great eye for style and detail. One thing strikes me little odd Kirby that when you have this kind of knowledge and eye on your disposal why didn't you let Mr. Martorano choose everything for you? Would have been very interesting what he chooses for you. Like he described the black cashmere jacket in LA, New York, Milan, London. I would think that you had a few two button navy suits already

    • @teekue
      @teekue Год назад

      Can Kirby really have too many navy suits? (Though I do agree.)

  • @skipgiblets
    @skipgiblets Год назад

    Fittings for his Halloween costumes, that’s so awesome 😅

  • @tw4328
    @tw4328 Год назад

    Kirby just saying I don't complement men... but that suit you had on before the measures was already pretty stellar !

  • @patricknevin7304
    @patricknevin7304 Год назад

    Kirby, we’re we listening to some miles Davis in the background ? Very relaxing ☺️ thanks for the interview and insight 😊

  • @benjaminblakemore9704
    @benjaminblakemore9704 Год назад +7

    Kirby... gods gift to real gentlemen 😊❤

  • @properlyfashioned
    @properlyfashioned Год назад

    That's my boss right there. Congrats Paolo

  • @sebastianmuglia7451
    @sebastianmuglia7451 9 месяцев назад

    Kirby, first off great hair as always. I am a welder/metal fabricator by trade so im as blue collar as it gets but i find your videos fascinating. I have become very interested in bespoke suit making and hope one day to commission a bespoke suit like a true dignified gentleman

  • @baraustad
    @baraustad 4 месяца назад

    Can you please explain: why were the clothiers at Paul Stuart not allowed to wear black shoes? Thank you.

  • @megasoid
    @megasoid Год назад +2

    Excellent.

  • @jamescowper6039
    @jamescowper6039 10 месяцев назад

    Have not seen that jacket of Kirby's before, it cld be his best yet. Pls do say where it comes from? And yes vg interview, mr. Paolo is thoroughly charming.

  • @myronharris-eo5nw
    @myronharris-eo5nw 10 месяцев назад

    Any advice for someone who has never had a suit tailored for me before

  • @russellphelps3808
    @russellphelps3808 Год назад

    Kirby I live in the Dallas FtWorth area and was wondering if you recommend any cigar shops in the area and if possible talk about it in a video. I'm a big fan and really appreciate the content you put out. thank you.

  • @thelearicist
    @thelearicist Год назад

    1:20:50 is the measuring

  • @petersturch5834
    @petersturch5834 Год назад +1

    As a Brit I love the more structured style of jacket. What are your thoughts on the newer tailors on Savile Row such as Cad&The Dandy?

  • @benjaminblakemore9704
    @benjaminblakemore9704 Год назад +1

    Paolo, what are the shoulder floofs about, those bumps at the join of the shoulder stich.... not so keen on that look, isthere a tradition i am missing

    • @darrenc3439
      @darrenc3439 Год назад +1

      Very French, and they are awesome.

  • @caseyjmaguire
    @caseyjmaguire Год назад +1

    It’s weird to me how much I know about your shoulders and hollow back. He moved around the front and I said “look out for that drop right!”

  • @joaquindelvecchio5445
    @joaquindelvecchio5445 Год назад +3

    Paolo’s style reminds me of Al Capone’s style… respectfully. Very, very nice.

  • @abajaj1510
    @abajaj1510 10 месяцев назад

    How much do the siits cost?

  • @jamesleung8679
    @jamesleung8679 Год назад +9

    Paolo looks like Al Capone😂

  • @redfoxinternationalconsult9572
    @redfoxinternationalconsult9572 Год назад +2

    Paolo is a time traveler from 1930

  • @JaffaHeckle
    @JaffaHeckle Год назад

    Came to an abrupt end just before the inside leg measurements! 😂

  • @matthewfw
    @matthewfw Год назад +1

    Longsdail. Despos. Oxxford. Juilliard piano player... Quite a few

    • @kirbyallison
      @kirbyallison  Год назад +2

      Longsdail, for sure. Despos and Jon Green both retired. Oxxford a shell of its former self. It’s surprisingly difficult here in the United States.

    • @JuanSanchezGuerra
      @JuanSanchezGuerra Год назад

      @@kirbyallison I believe that Mr. Longsdail's son is now involved with the business, so they will likely be producing at the highest levels for time to come, if one can shell out $9,000 for a suit, a higher price point than any other except Huntsman. Then there is Divij Bespoke whose work, in my opinion, is excellent and trunk shows in more places than anyone else, and Sartoria Gallo and Cad and the Dandy in New York.

  • @alexandermikhailov2481
    @alexandermikhailov2481 4 месяца назад

    Kirby, do yourself a favor: get yourself a bespoke track suit with bespoke sneakers and start going to the gym implementing a bespoke training plan from your personal trainer. 👍

  • @Somethingisntrighttoday
    @Somethingisntrighttoday Год назад +2

    Kirby fans can tell you everything you need to know: sloped shoulders, right is lower than the left, SRB (with a swine on it), hollow back.

  • @Popinjay87
    @Popinjay87 9 месяцев назад

    Hes a cross between AL Capone and George Santos.

  • @mikewinston8709
    @mikewinston8709 Год назад +4

    “Bespoke is here to stay”……it has never gone away….poor poor America……🇬🇧

    • @sareight
      @sareight Год назад +2

      Seems as though you misinterpreted that quote. He never implied it ever went away. He simply implied that with younger people coming in to the business it’s here to stay.

  • @nancybenson1951
    @nancybenson1951 7 месяцев назад

    Fascinating. This was the best interview. 👍🏻

  • @monochromebluess
    @monochromebluess Год назад +4

    So he is not a tailor but a measuring salesman ? What happens after he passes on the measurements to his coat man and the coat man and they cut the cloth. Does he do the first and second fits etc or would a real tailor be in attendance ? A touch baffled by this show as normally a suit is created for you by a real tailor.

    • @gkj13
      @gkj13 Год назад +1

      Exactly. He's a salesman, he meaures and then hands it off to an actual (ghost) tailor.

    • @teekue
      @teekue Год назад

      As I understand it he learned the ways of tailoring but the only thing he is doing nowadays when it comes to actual tailoring is the ironworks.

    • @monochromebluess
      @monochromebluess Год назад +1

      @@teekue Well the show was one and half hours long and I didn’t hear him state that he had tailor training. It was more selling/marketing roles for various large companies until he says he was advised to go out on his own. Skilled tailors take years of training and that cannot be said in this case. He is a salesman. A very likeable chap certainly and no doubt exceptionally smart but he is NOT a tailor and I do think it undermines the other tailors who have been presented on this channel. Be it London. New York. Paris etc etc.

    • @teekue
      @teekue Год назад

      ​@@monochromebluessyou are of course right. Especially when Kirby says he is finally getting something from an American tailor, which he will still not have done after this project is finished.

  • @Gwalabeeeeams
    @Gwalabeeeeams Год назад

    Paul heyman👀👀

  • @michaelthoele1625
    @michaelthoele1625 8 месяцев назад

    Have you ever looked into your posture? it seems to me your shoulder and back are maybe just incorrect position. Not trying to be rude just curious is all.

  • @abrahamjoseph6707
    @abrahamjoseph6707 4 месяца назад

    He looks like al capon's nice little brother.

  • @maciejpopek957
    @maciejpopek957 Год назад

    👌

  • @AL-sx5jp
    @AL-sx5jp Год назад +1

    That MF looks like Al Capone

    • @kirbyallison
      @kirbyallison  Год назад +2

      That gangster sure knew how to dress...

    • @AL-sx5jp
      @AL-sx5jp Год назад

      @@kirbyallison exactly my point! He dresses and carries himself like the most gentlemanly gangster. So awesome to see 👌🏼👌🏼

  • @james-kn8lm
    @james-kn8lm Год назад

    Desmerrion is the best uk tailor. Desmerrion makes for saville row.
    Desmerrion has clients from all over the world.

  • @ericstevens5433
    @ericstevens5433 Год назад

    CLASSIC WILL ALWAYS BE CLASSIC, NO MATTER HOW LOUD YOU GET!

  • @midnightalley4586
    @midnightalley4586 Год назад +3

    In California we are dying

    • @Joedirt3349
      @Joedirt3349 Год назад +2

      Yes, you are. 😢

    • @darrenc3439
      @darrenc3439 Год назад +1

      You voted for it.

    • @midnightalley4586
      @midnightalley4586 Год назад +2

      @@darrenc3439 i think you are commenting on the wrong video. Its about clothing, not politics

    • @Joedirt3349
      @Joedirt3349 Год назад +1

      @@midnightalley4586 clothing IS politics, my man

    • @Joedirt3349
      @Joedirt3349 Год назад +1

      @@darrenc3439 They did indeed.

  • @kevinpriggert6501
    @kevinpriggert6501 Год назад

    gg

  • @markvoina1764
    @markvoina1764 Год назад

    The dude getting measured looks creepy

  • @deweybodenhamer7303
    @deweybodenhamer7303 10 месяцев назад

    1 hour and 20 minutes we get the actual fitting with no explanation this is crap

  • @yeahimlistening
    @yeahimlistening Год назад +2

    ....... why did i comment...

  • @leanmachinepainting3966
    @leanmachinepainting3966 Год назад +2

    "English don't do hand finishing" this guy is absolutely clueless and or deluded.

    • @hamishharper2322
      @hamishharper2322 Год назад +6

      they do, although not as fanciful or ornate as the italians or spanish... as he said.

    • @kirbyallison
      @kirbyallison  Год назад +5

      …or the French.

    • @teekue
      @teekue Год назад +1

      It is absolutely true. Savile row does a lot of machine work even on the highest end of bespoke tailoring. Compare that to, for example, bespoke from Naples where everything is being done by hand.

  • @Masson1903
    @Masson1903 9 месяцев назад

    Thats a very creased shirt youer wearing! You have wardrobes full of bespoke shirts yet you dont iron them properly???

  • @ericstevens5433
    @ericstevens5433 Год назад

    AND BROOKLYN NEW YORK, AND A SMALL TOWN IN NORTH CAROLINA IS WHERE I GREW UP ALL MY LIFE AND OF COURSE MY MOTHER AND FATHER ALWAYS HAD A HOME IN SOUTH FLORIDA SO WE WOULD ALWAYS VENTURE TO FLORIDA IN THE WINTER AND NYC IN THE SUMMER MOST OF THE TIME I WAS BORN IN 1985 AND AGAIN WE WOULD HAVE A HOUSE IN NORTH CAROLINA I ALWAYS SAID FOR NO REASON BUT WE LOVED IT THERE WE SPENT A LOT OF TIME THERE RIGHT ON THE COAST, ON THE BEACH WHERE WE HAD ALL FAMILY TIME TO GET AWAY FROM THE BIG CITY OF NEW YORK AND GET AWAY FROM THE HUSTLE TOURIST OF MIAMI. LIFE WAS GREAT FOR ME! I AM AND WAS TRULY BLESSED! WITH A WONDERFUL BEAUTIFUL LOVING FAMILY! WITH AMAZING FAMILY VALUES, LOVE, RESPECT, HONOR, STABILITY, AND RAISED AS AND WITH SUCH A HUMBLE LOVING FAMILY.

  • @ericstevens5433
    @ericstevens5433 Год назад

    EVEN IF WE GO BROKE MONEY OS NEVER EVER A PROBLEM FOR US! BECAUSE WE DON'T STAY BROKE FOR LONG.WE ALWAYS FIND A WAY BACK VERY QUICKLY.

  • @ericstevens5433
    @ericstevens5433 Год назад

    ALL ME AND MY FATHER DO TODAY IS PLAY GOLF, SPORT FISH FOR WAHOO, TUNA, MARLIN, BASS, ETC. AND SMOKE CIGARS TOGETHER WHAT MORE CAN A SON ASK FOR!

  • @ericstevens5433
    @ericstevens5433 Год назад

    JOHN GOTTI WAS MY GREAT UNCLE! #JUSTSAYING LOL

  • @ericstevens5433
    @ericstevens5433 Год назад

    AND MOST OF THE TIME, WE ALWAYS WEAR STRIPE SUITS, AND CHALK STRIPE SUITS, AND NEVER EVER EVER SMALL LAPELS, AND NEVER EVER SLIM TIES! WE ALL, ALWAYS WEAR TRADITIONAL 3.5-4 INCH WIDE NECKTIES! AND WIDE PEAK LAPELS, OR WIDE NOTCH LAPELS, AND ALL OUT SUITS ARE ALWAYS 3-PIECE! SEE MY TRADTION AND FAMILY AND VERY TRADITIONAL, OLD SCHOOL CLASSIC, STYLE BUT WITH A LOT OF I GUESS PAZAZZ! LOL THE OLD GUYS AND SOMETIMES I AS WELL WEAR OLD SCHOOL AND PRINTED HAND PAINTED NECKTIES! I WORE ONE THE OTHER DAY.