I did my small cabinboat exaxtly like this. 6mm acrylic. Much better than before with the plexiglass like the old system in cars. It was loose inside this and now with this strong tape and Polymer its strong as h*ll haha. Txn for sharing this!
Many thanks to the producer of this excellent instructional video, I have followed this method using the exact same VHB tape in changing the windows on my 1979 Leisure 27 sailing boat with no problems apart from having to dodge the heavy rain showers here in Uk. I used 5mm dark grey tinted acrylic and the results are fantastic.
Fantastic video, and the windows look great! We plan to use your method on our Abbott. Just wanted to ask if you opted to use extra tape on the top and bottom edges for more hold, or if that was just a result of how the windows were cut. Any advice on the tape to sealant ratio, or is it unimportant?
Hi Chelsey. Thanks for the feedback. No particular formula - my logic was that VHB was doing the bonding so maximised the tape. The sealant was to keep water away from the tape and I figured that even using a good caulking gun that I’d struggle to consistently get a bead of more than 10mm into the narrow gap between the window and cabin roof hence the narrow strip of sealant around the edge. So far so good - has survived summer here of days over 40deg C and a 350nm trip with strong winds and waves - no signs of leaks or de-bonding. All the best for the project!
The window replacement was very neat & professional - great video about the job too. However - I have to ask - what happens when it's time to replace the windows again? How are the windows going to be removed when they are permanently glued in place with that tape?
Thanks for the question. I had wondered the same thing. Using some samples I can use a long razor blade to cut the tape in 2 or 3 passes. The tape actually cuts quite easily even after the “curing” period. Getting the residual off the hull would be a similar process to removing sealant ie: razor, sharp chisel, sander and probably acetone or a suitable thinners. Hopefully the windows will last for many years before I have to make a video about that process!
@@bottomline4284You could also pass a thin, strong wire through (like a narrow picture hanging wire) and slide it around the perimeter to cut the tape. This is similar to the process used to remove a car windshield for replacement. Thanks for the video! I need to do the same thing on a 1979 Morgan.
Hi A really good video. Would applying the paint to the outside of the window have caused a problem other than loosing the gloss of the external window surface?
Thanks Roger. I don’t think it would make any difference to the adhesion of the VHB tape of the sealant. While it would hide the tape and sealant, it would draw attention to itself with the contrast with the gloss surface of the screw-free, beveled window. Personally I prefer the more subtle approach. You’d also risk it getting scratched.
Great video thanks - very concise. How is the tape holding now after a few months? I'm in two minds whether to screw in as well as using VHB tape? I'm in SW France, so can get heat-intensive here in Summer...
Hi Paul. Windows continue to do well. Summer here in South Australia has many days over 40deg c and no issues. A cruise to Spencer Gulf over New Year with a variety of wind and sea states but no leaks. ruclips.net/video/fNSvM0X5Il8/видео.html
I have no experience with deadlights so can’t really offer an opinion. My initial thoughts from pictures would be that they are heavier than plain acrylic and sit proud of the mounting surface. Both the weight and surfaces that could be caught by waves may not be a good combination for the tape but as I say, no experience on this one. Sorry.
Hi Jason. Roughly 30mm. I left a 10mm gap for sealant and then there was one full and one partial strip of VHB tape which went right to the edge of the window cut-out.
Great video but I wonder at the decision to fill the screw holes. Surely screws there for for a reason? Great adhesion but would this be sufficient to withstand the marine environment long-term?
Thanks for the feedback. Good question re long term resilience. I’ve taken this approach having read reports of the marine industry on the east coast (Australia) using VHB tape and no screws in many new build boats. The commercial building industry also use it even for skyscraper windows. The new windows on this boat have lasted three complete seasons (summer and winter (cruising and racing) with no adhesion issues or leaks. Time will tell I guess. Cheers
I've just tried this on one of four windows I need to sort out. Only difference was I used sikaflex. After a week of installation, I'm seeing a problem. Where the sika flex meets the VHT painted surface, it is causing the paint to separate from the Perspex. This is happening up, so difficult to explain fully, but it seems that the sikaflex is reacting with the paint. No problem on the bond between VHB tape and paint though. I used 291i because I had a tube and was waiting for 295uv to arrive. Maybe this is the difference, but I think this first window is going to fail.
@john Wilde Can you follow-up on the other windows you did? I will be installing new windows later this year and I want to know if the sikaflex was the problem or the paint you used?
@@jordimuller8521 hi. So I did complete all of the other windows, but I decided to sand back the painted surround where the sikaflex was going to be applied, allowing it to create a seal directly on to the Perspex - but left it where the VHB was bonding to retain the UV protection. I used black 295uv for this and from the finished side, it was almost impossible to see the difference between the unpainted sikaflex and painting area. I went back to the first window and scrapped out some of the sika from the worst areas and reapplied it - this time using 295uv. For that first window I was using white sika 291i and I still think this reacted with that VHT paint. Having said that, it and all other windows have been water tight. They have survived the flexing while the boat was craned back in in April and I've been for a couple of sails. However, should note that my standing rigging attaches to the hull stringers, so don't apply much load to coach roof. Also- the coach roof my boat is pretty stiff (being old 80s lay-up). So far I am very happy with. Just having no leaks it nice.
Hi Fernando. I’d have to go back to the supplier to get an actual brand. It was just one of many they had in stock at a local plastics business. All the windows are still secure, clear, leak free and looking good.
I am surprised that the paint applied to the inside of the acrylic does not compromise the adhesion between the window and the tape. Would expect the paint adhesion to fail at some point. It certainly looks better not seeing the tape and sealant. The windows look great. $800 sounds really expensive. 3/16 (4.5mm) tinted acrylic is about $10 per window if doing your own cutting here in the States. Thanks for the video very helpful.
Hi Paul. Yes paint adhesion was one of my main concerns. The choice of paint is quite specific - it seems this type of high temperature automotive paint is the choice of professionals who work with marine windows here in Australia. Only time will tell I guess. Some of the cost probably came from having the edges beveled and polished which improves the aesthetics considerably compared to a simple cut. $800 AUD would be about $600 USD. Cheers
@@bottomline4284 I am replacing the cabin windows on an old but loved O'Day 30. I ordered the 3/16 cast acrylic smoked gray, two rolls of the 3/4" VHB tape, and the Dow Corning 791 caulking and I am in about $160. This is with me cutting the windows to shape and using a torch to smooth the edges (yellow can MAP/PRO) which worked really well on the companionway door. Your video was really helpful. Hopefully I have this done in a month depending upon weather.
@@sunsriseinvestment so far they’ve survived two summers and winters, two racing seasons and several cruises without an issue. At the end of the day you should do what you feel comfortable with. Cheers
@@bottomline4284 the price is reasonable 👍. I live in a very hot climate so no matter what glue or caulk you use flexiglass doesn't hold well , so I use screws with eyelets and caulk to hold it down. I no longer use Sika they don't make it as good as before. Try Arbokol 1000 really good stuff. I have success with over 28 boats so far
@matthewsilva8225 Hi Matthew. According to the quote it was “531 grey tint acrylic” from City Plastics 61 East Street Brompton SA 5007 Phone: 08 8346 6500
Great video! Very clear and concise. This project is coming up for me. Thanks for making this.
Much appreciated. Great concise video.
Well done we also did all the windows and hatches what a difference 👏
I did my small cabinboat exaxtly like this.
6mm acrylic.
Much better than before with the plexiglass like the old system in cars. It was loose inside this and now with this strong tape and Polymer its strong as h*ll haha.
Txn for sharing this!
Thanks for posting this.
I too must replace the ageing windows of my NS38. Thanks for posting.
nice job
Many thanks to the producer of this excellent instructional video, I have followed this method using the exact same VHB tape in changing the windows on my 1979 Leisure 27 sailing boat with no problems apart from having to dodge the heavy rain showers here in Uk. I used 5mm dark grey tinted acrylic and the results are fantastic.
Fantastic video, and the windows look great! We plan to use your method on our Abbott. Just wanted to ask if you opted to use extra tape on the top and bottom edges for more hold, or if that was just a result of how the windows were cut. Any advice on the tape to sealant ratio, or is it unimportant?
Hi Chelsey. Thanks for the feedback. No particular formula - my logic was that VHB was doing the bonding so maximised the tape. The sealant was to keep water away from the tape and I figured that even using a good caulking gun that I’d struggle to consistently get a bead of more than 10mm into the narrow gap between the window and cabin roof hence the narrow strip of sealant around the edge. So far so good - has survived summer here of days over 40deg C and a 350nm trip with strong winds and waves - no signs of leaks or de-bonding. All the best for the project!
We are both to take our cabin windows out and was thinking of using the multi tool to cut through the sikaflex , great minds think a like 😀
The window replacement was very neat & professional - great video about the job too. However - I have to ask - what happens when it's time to replace the windows again? How are the windows going to be removed when they are permanently glued in place with that tape?
Thanks for the question. I had wondered the same thing. Using some samples I can use a long razor blade to cut the tape in 2 or 3 passes. The tape actually cuts quite easily even after the “curing” period. Getting the residual off the hull would be a similar process to removing sealant ie: razor, sharp chisel, sander and probably acetone or a suitable thinners. Hopefully the windows will last for many years before I have to make a video about that process!
@@bottomline4284You could also pass a thin, strong wire through (like a narrow picture hanging wire) and slide it around the perimeter to cut the tape. This is similar to the process used to remove a car windshield for replacement. Thanks for the video! I need to do the same thing on a 1979 Morgan.
Hi
A really good video.
Would applying the paint to the outside of the window have caused a problem other than loosing the gloss of the external window surface?
Thanks Roger. I don’t think it would make any difference to the adhesion of the VHB tape of the sealant. While it would hide the tape and sealant, it would draw attention to itself with the contrast with the gloss surface of the screw-free, beveled window. Personally I prefer the more subtle approach. You’d also risk it getting scratched.
Great video thanks - very concise.
How is the tape holding now after a few months?
I'm in two minds whether to screw in as well as using VHB tape?
I'm in SW France, so can get heat-intensive here in Summer...
Hi Paul. Windows continue to do well. Summer here in South Australia has many days over 40deg c and no issues. A cruise to Spencer Gulf over New Year with a variety of wind and sea states but no leaks. ruclips.net/video/fNSvM0X5Il8/видео.html
@@bottomline4284 Thanks, that's very informative 👍👍
Looks awesome. Have you got much feedback on how the windows have performed after 2 years?
Still in place and leak free!
Beautiful.
I'm thinking of replacing my aluminium framed deadlights using this 3M VHB tape. Do you think it will withstand boarding waves?
I have no experience with deadlights so can’t really offer an opinion. My initial thoughts from pictures would be that they are heavier than plain acrylic and sit proud of the mounting surface. Both the weight and surfaces that could be caught by waves may not be a good combination for the tape but as I say, no experience on this one. Sorry.
Ok well thanks for the response, I'll probably do this method anyway and just be prepared for emergency repairs.
3 years later, would you have done anything different? Was acrylic the best material to use?
Great video by the way!
Thanks Brock. No leaks no movement. The windows are still nice and clear. I wouldn’t do anything different
how much wider is the plexiglass over the opening?. Looks great!!
Hi Jason. Roughly 30mm. I left a 10mm gap for sealant and then there was one full and one partial strip of VHB tape which went right to the edge of the window cut-out.
@@bottomline4284 Awesome, thank you
Great video but I wonder at the decision to fill the screw holes. Surely screws there for for a reason? Great adhesion but would this be sufficient to withstand the marine environment long-term?
Thanks for the feedback. Good question re long term resilience. I’ve taken this approach having read reports of the marine industry on the east coast (Australia) using VHB tape and no screws in many new build boats. The commercial building industry also use it even for skyscraper windows. The new windows on this boat have lasted three complete seasons (summer and winter (cruising and racing) with no adhesion issues or leaks. Time will tell I guess. Cheers
Also windshields on cars are attached this way…
I've just tried this on one of four windows I need to sort out. Only difference was I used sikaflex. After a week of installation, I'm seeing a problem. Where the sika flex meets the VHT painted surface, it is causing the paint to separate from the Perspex. This is happening up, so difficult to explain fully, but it seems that the sikaflex is reacting with the paint. No problem on the bond between VHB tape and paint though.
I used 291i because I had a tube and was waiting for 295uv to arrive. Maybe this is the difference, but I think this first window is going to fail.
@john Wilde
Can you follow-up on the other windows you did? I will be installing new windows later this year and I want to know if the sikaflex was the problem or the paint you used?
@@jordimuller8521 hi. So I did complete all of the other windows, but I decided to sand back the painted surround where the sikaflex was going to be applied, allowing it to create a seal directly on to the Perspex - but left it where the VHB was bonding to retain the UV protection. I used black 295uv for this and from the finished side, it was almost impossible to see the difference between the unpainted sikaflex and painting area.
I went back to the first window and scrapped out some of the sika from the worst areas and reapplied it - this time using 295uv. For that first window I was using white sika 291i and I still think this reacted with that VHT paint. Having said that, it and all other windows have been water tight. They have survived the flexing while the boat was craned back in in April and I've been for a couple of sails. However, should note that my standing rigging attaches to the hull stringers, so don't apply much load to coach roof. Also- the coach roof my boat is pretty stiff (being old 80s lay-up).
So far I am very happy with. Just having no leaks it nice.
Hello, which brand acrylic did you use, and how ir works?
Hi Fernando. I’d have to go back to the supplier to get an actual brand. It was just one of many they had in stock at a local plastics business. All the windows are still secure, clear, leak free and looking good.
What is the UV rating of that double sided tape. How long could that possibly last?
I’m sure 3M will have UV specs on a PDS but it is designed for exterior glazing work. www.3m.com.au/3M/en_AU/p/d/b40065672/
multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/893360O/vhb-structural-glazing-tape-g-b23f.pdf
@@bottomline4284 That is more than I thought. Thanks for sharing
its been 3 years. how is it holding up?
Hi Mark. No movement, no leaks - so far so good!
I am surprised that the paint applied to the inside of the acrylic does not compromise the adhesion between the window and the tape. Would expect the paint adhesion to fail at some point. It certainly looks better not seeing the tape and sealant. The windows look great. $800 sounds really expensive. 3/16 (4.5mm) tinted acrylic is about $10 per window if doing your own cutting here in the States. Thanks for the video very helpful.
Hi Paul. Yes paint adhesion was one of my main concerns. The choice of paint is quite specific - it seems this type of high temperature automotive paint is the choice of professionals who work with marine windows here in Australia. Only time will tell I guess. Some of the cost probably came from having the edges beveled and polished which improves the aesthetics considerably compared to a simple cut. $800 AUD would be about $600 USD. Cheers
$800 AUD was total cost for the project so also included new wash boards, VHB, sealant etc.
@@bottomline4284 I am replacing the cabin windows on an old but loved O'Day 30. I ordered the 3/16 cast acrylic smoked gray, two rolls of the 3/4" VHB tape, and the Dow Corning 791 caulking and I am in about $160. This is with me cutting the windows to shape and using a torch to smooth the edges (yellow can MAP/PRO) which worked really well on the companionway door. Your video was really helpful. Hopefully I have this done in a month depending upon weather.
All the best with the project!
@@paulrock8571 do you mean you used a blow torch (flame) to smooth the cut edges?
but you did not screws your new windows, just tape it?
Correct
@@bottomline4284 oh wow and the windows gonna hold? Lol i don't know if i should do that i have a 1983 jeanneau 30 ft
@@sunsriseinvestment so far they’ve survived two summers and winters, two racing seasons and several cruises without an issue. At the end of the day you should do what you feel comfortable with. Cheers
@@bottomline4284 right, the problem is my windows are super long like 20 inches large and 6ft long at least 🤣
Thats $800 for 4 windows?
$800 for all 4 cabin windows and the wash boards
@@bottomline4284 the price is reasonable 👍. I live in a very hot climate so no matter what glue or caulk you use flexiglass doesn't hold well , so I use screws with eyelets and caulk to hold it down. I no longer use Sika they don't make it as good as before.
Try Arbokol 1000 really good stuff. I have success with over 28 boats so far
Where did you purchase the polycarbonate?
@matthewsilva8225 Hi Matthew. According to the quote it was “531 grey tint acrylic” from
City Plastics
61 East Street
Brompton
SA 5007
Phone: 08 8346 6500