I’m 75 and still get after it! Age and its accompanied pain and fog builds character…. Great design and implementation!! As a retired product designer, I love innovation!
That means so much! I’m definitely no engineer, but I find (playing engineer) in my projects to be the most fun part! Don’t tell my engineer friends I said that - I’ll never hear the end of it! 😂 Thanks for watching and commenting. 👊🏻
Free or paid, it would be awesome for you to release the plans. I was about to start looking for overhead dust collection for my table saw as my new shop is 90-95% done. Just about to buy my spiral piping.
im working on getting a downloadable file package put together, so others can print their own parts to build this. thanks for watching and commenting. 👊
@@brewbuildsmessage me if you need someone to draw it up 3D with working prints for each part of the assembly. Typically I charge for the service but I'll do this for free... Solidworks or AutoCAD
@@lars-erikeriksson896 I appreciate the compliment! Although this is my design and built from scratch, I’m not the first person to do this. Companies sell similar setups, and other people have also built their own. This was just my take on it, and a fun challenge for me. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.👊🏻
I love the design and performance of this! The files or plans would be a great addition to the woodworking community to help us save our lungs! (And keep our wives happy!)
I use transfer punches all the time! I guess I had never thought about not seeing others use them in woodworking. They are so handy. Thanks for watching, and taking the time to comment. 👊🏻
You could mount a brush seal around the bottom edge of the hood (think the bottom of a garage door). This would prevent the throat plate from lifting and also provide a seal to prevent the remaining escaping dust.
Thanks, That was a great Video, Love the way you thought it out and designed it, I know some people don't have 3d printers, I would say make File or Files available and as for making the parts, you can make a few and see how they sell or have a way they can order them. it just depends on how many request you get.😀
This is a great design and video, I've been doing a bit of research on this recently and this video really shows the thought process, testing, tweaks, etc. Great job and well put together. Looking forward to the STL files once you have them available!!! I'm building a shop in my basement, so dust collection is paramount not only for my health but also making the Wife "ok" with me having it there. lol
Your thoroughness in the details earned you another subscriber. Love how you use science to back up why it works. Since I do not have a 3D printer, I would want to buy the complete hood attachment for over the blade. My dust collection system runs much lower in height, actually under the outfeed table, so I would want to be able to connect the hood a little differently.
Love the build. I would be interested in purchasing the pieces to assemble myself as I don't have a 3d printer. Also- would putting a 'brush sweep' ( like the have on the bottom of CNC bit) around the base of the unit contain more dust? I'm not critiquing- I'm new to this stuff- just asking. Thanks for the video! 👍
Thank you! No that’s a great suggestion/idea! I’m looking into the brush material to help with the collection. Along with getting some plans put together. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. I’m all about helping people in their workshops. 👊🏻
I like your design very much and your video was easy to follow. Do you have the 3D files available? I just bought a 3D printer and would love to make this project.
Really nice work and obviously a huge improvement. Complete arm-chair woodworking here but I’m curious given all that precision why you asked the flex hose to do so many gymnastics? Look at the shot at 15:00 and you can see a huge bend and slack at the blast gate and then a tight 180 followed by a 90 and finally another 90 just above the blade. All those bends, especially with flex hose has to be introducing all sorts of drag. Had you put the boom arm significantly higher you could’ve got all your direction change out of a single 90 degree coming off the 4” pipe. Essentially it would come out from the down trunk via a Y and whatever the balance is from 90 and then into your horizontal 4” but then go straight down to your blade from above. You could use mostly pvc for that down run to improve flow and then just use flex hose (even though it’d run straight up and down) towards the very end as that flex would provide all the upward travel you’d need to get it out of the way when you don’t need it. The challenge would be the blast gate being out of reach but perhaps this is a good case for an electronically controlled blast gate. Then to go next level dork you connect the boom arm to a CNC style rail with a material thickness input at the saw so you just plug in your material thickness and the dust shroud (with brush added as many others have mentioned) will raise or lower to the appropriate height automatically. You could also tie in the blast gate control to this input so it’s all in one place and then you’d have an absurdly complex and nerdy way to remove a few percentage points of dust, but you’d also have another video to drive traffic which I’m betting is of just as much value to you 😉
I’m interested in the files or purchasing a kit. PS have you thought about adding some rollerblade wheels to the front and back and letting the hood ride the material? if the hood is too heavy, you could experiment with adding some springs to make the whole hood almost float on the work piece. I think some after market hoods do some similar. Either way, it’s an awesome design.
The files are available on my Etsy store, the link is in my video description.😁 As far as adding the wheels and spring, that was actually in my initial design. I felt it was getting a little to complex and I figured I’d get a working model going first and see what change were needed. I’m not sure the extra steps/work would make the overall performance better. But I may still experiment with it for fun! Thanks for watching and commenting. 👊🏻
I would love the 3d print files. Great work, this looks awesome and seems like it performs way better than a lot of 3rd party overarm solutions. I would happily buy the 3d print files if you were wanting to sell them
Cool dust collector. Maybe add a skirt with some brush like material to the bottom so the suction area is sealed to the table top yet allowing the wood to pass thru it.
Amazing design and meticulous build. I have a question. I have seen a lot of woodworking videos about dust collection. It seems everybody fights gravity. I wonder why folks always go up instead of down. I would think the majority; of the suction is consumed taking the dust on an upward journey. Oh yeah: one other thing. That polycarbonate is incredibly strong. Why not make the frame for the over-blade part of the collection out of polycarbonate. That way everything would be transparent.
Great setup. One thing that may be useful is integrating a brush dust boot around the bottom. That way it can maintain a seal around the hood and wood being cut. It may also solve the problems with the insert plates because the brush will not let so much pressure build up.
Thank you! I’ve been looking at some different brush options to help. I’m not sure if it will make the insert plate better or worse. I think either way adding magnets would be a good move. 👊🏻 thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
@@brewbuilds I have a CNC and the brushes on the dust boot 100% help reduce the dust collection. When you are collection dust from an overhead vacuum, brushes provide the necessary curtain for maximum effectiveness. Another suggestion, angle the brushes, this will allow the brushes to flair out. This is important around the saw blade. I have some other ideas if you want to pursue this design. I have been looking at a number of designs and no one has even attempted it.
you need a hinged flap that the wood pushes up when it first slides under the dust hood, then the flap drops down when the wood is passed it at the end of the cut. This will capture the projectile dust from the blade when no wood is obstructing it. the saw bloade is tossing dust faster than the hood can pick it up. all you need to do is define the area where debris can be flung by the blade so the dust hood picks it up. your demo at 13:49 is a little skewed because 99% of table saw cuts have wood on both side of the blade. if you do the test over again with 1" of wood being trimmed the debris will be dispersed only in the vector line of the blade spinning.
@@kjc10 I tossed around the flap idea, the issue with that is it would require the hood to be larger in size to accommodate the flap movement being to the forward direction and be clearance issues with how much blade is exposed for the type of cut. I thing the bristles broom concept like on cnc’s would be a better idea to adopt, but this would require me to move the whole assemble higher up to accommodate those, not an issue, but I just wanted to get a working model to see where improvements could be made. I explained in the video that I chose that extreme edge cut, and using mdf to show the worst cause scenario to be able to compare with and without easier. You are right the dust being flung off the blade can be traveling at speeds of 100mph, the main objective of the hood is to act as a shield to slow the particles down enough to allow the hood to then effectively suck them up. Improvements will be made, but I can say this is a huge improvement over not having one.👍🏻 Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. I truly appreciate it. 👊🏻
@@brewbuilds This cat figured out the variable geometry pick up: ruclips.net/video/TkYoLxlHAD0/видео.htmlsi=GJI_rLRDWyYYZsgY his actually pivots down when the wood passes beyond it. He is using a shop vac and about 1.5" hose so it will be a low air volume pick-up, yet strong suction from the 100"~ of static pressure. Normal dust collectors have 10-20" of static pressure at most. I watched the air measurements you made. you are measuring your ducting capacity which is correct at determining your system threshold. But also you need to factor in the geometry of input when in real-time use. Specifically the surface area of all air openings when moving stock thru the cutter. The 4" hose is going to be 12.6 sq. in. as a cross sectional surface area. This is the unimpeded surface area of your ducting speed, that you measured with your anemometer. when the hood was suspended wide open about 3-4" above the table. when the hood is suspended lower like 3/4" above the plywood, the open space will be greatly reduced. if you add intake vents that wouldn't expel the flung debris, the gain in unimpeded air volume will aid in velocity and pick up. You can test your dust collector system in this way by covering half the 4" hose end see how diminished input geometry and reduced air air volume also reduces speed.
Cool build. You've got a great engineering mind. That took a lot of thought and designing . And then having a printer helps. It would be great if you could market it .
Great job, I've never seen your channel and just subscribed. Are you from WA? Did you put your plans online for download? Please let me know. Thank you for the video! Have a blessed day!
Love the idea , just a suggestion would gluing a y fitting somewhere along the arm and capping the end straighten the twist out of the flex hose to the hood. Might look a bit cleaner and increase cfm a bit more. But again great idea. God bless!!!
@@richardwadsworth4259 I tossed around that idea at the beginning, and was worried it would be too bulky. I have a spare wye maybe I’ll mock it up see how it looks, and run some flow tests. I took reads right at the end of the 4” pipe, and although that flex does slightly reduce the flow I don’t know if it’s enough to really make a huge difference. But your idea might be fun to try out! Thanks for watching, and taking the time to comment!👊🏻
Have you seen HookedOnWood zero clearance insert video? He got better cabinet dust collection results when there were some holes in the insert, near but not at the blade so he still maintained the zero clearance at the blade. I think this might help improve your situation further even after the over arm build.
I haven’t seen that, I like the way it sounds though. I’ll check it out, thanks for the suggestion. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.👊🏻
thanks dude! im working on getting a file package out for others to be able to print these parts them selves. thanks for watching, and taking the time to comment.👊
Hey Rob, great project and esp great use of 3D printing to tailor pieces for your needs. I've been wanting to replace / improve the current overhead dust collection on my Sawstop, and was thinking of something similar to what you made here. Couple of thoughts --1) I'd be very curious to see what effect it would have on dust capture if the hose were to attach at the front of the hood rather than the back as you have it. The cutting action where all the dust is created is happening exclusively at the front of the blade and getting the point of suction as close as possible to the source of dust is paramount. 2) how do you handle situations where the fence is very close to the blade for a narrow cut? I haven't decided how I will handle this, but my thinking is to have a shorter fence or a reversible fence so the hood and fence don't interfere with each other. 3) I like your height adjustability, but it looks like there will always still be a small gap between the bottom of the hood and the workpiece. What about installing brushes -- maybe short ones like an inch or less, to the bottom edge of the hood. I know that on my CNC the brushes make a HUGE difference because there is truly no gap between the hood and the cutting surface. Anyway, great work and would love to hear your thoughts! All the best
Thanks for watching Carl. I think capturing more over the top of the blade or from the front would work better, and was a thought of mine. It just became a little harder in the design side of things and to keep the aesthetics there. I’m looking into the cnc type brushes, I’m trying to find some that aren’t way too long. 👊🏻
@@brewbuilds you can always cut them down with scissors -- that's what I did! I definitely did not regret it -- the original brushes I had were 3" long and that was way too long and clumsy. I cut them to about 1 inch and that has worked really well. Good luck!
I’m working on the instructions to go with the files! Thanks for watching, and make sure you’re subbed so you know when the file package becomes available. 👊🏻
Very cool build. I am going to do the same using magnets on the cast iron top (I mainly do small work). I would suggest you get some brush strips, I have used them in other dust collection builds and they really make a difference. New to your channel, will check out your other stuff and consider subscribing.
Heck yeah! I’ll start working on putting some file packages together. I’ll either do a follow up video or just do a community post to keep everyone informed. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. 👊🏻
Really nice build! I'd be interested in the files to print. Getting the original Fusion360 (or whatever you did your design in) would be even better so I can tweak it a bit to my setup.
im at the part where youre about to test and i have to say, im sitting here and shaking my head at how amazing this build is. ive seem em all and one in particular was so innovative to also make a piece of lexan on the left to catch dust from edge cuts but using the 3d printer,,, i mean bravooooo. I definitely want those files. pleaseeeeeeee
oh by the way, if this works, my next stpe is to incorporate the 3d printed ball style blast gates and one person has a version already to allow quick mount of the servo so it can be automated and thats a whooooole other thing ill have to learn. it involves an arduino to control the parameters, for example to say, when machine 1 turns on, open blast gate 1 and close blast gate 3,4 and 6 and the same goes for the other blast gates. If this is put together with the auto on and off i think its the pinnacle of dust collection.... well that and metal pipes that are 6 or 8 inches would be but this is better than most lol
Im on par with the comments about a brush seal at the edges. I think it would allow more air flow from the bottom edges reducing dust escaping. Maybe spring loaded to compensate for different material thickness. Just spit balling here.
I love your concept. Since my ceiling is 10' and I don't have a post/pole to pivot the dust arm, I'll be using the ceiling for the anchor point. So, if you can post plans (.pdf or .skp) I'd love it (and pay you for it)!
Thank you! With my busy summer schedule coming to an end, and some complications with my Etsy store, I’m hoping the files will be uploaded this week. My file package so far consists of .stl files, and .3mf files. So far what I’ve gathered from the comments most people are wanting to 3D print the parts. If you can tell me what you’re looking to do more specific I maybe be able to make something work for you. I’m assuming you are looking for .skp files because you use SketchUp and are wanting to play around with how to make it work in your shop? Thanks for watching and commenting.👊🏻
Thanks for watching. I’m working on putting a file package together for people to download. Good luck on building your shop, keep me posted on the progress!👊🏻
Thank you!👊🏻 I think I’m going to start to put together a file with all the parts, and I write up on the assembly. 👍🏻thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
@@FatboyRon2466 thank you, now that things are slowing down for me I’ll be getting them uploaded. I was putting together a brief write up to include with the file package to help with the build. Make sure you’re subscribed because I’ll do a follow up video and a community post when they become available. Thanks for watching. 👊🏻
I’m working on cleaning them up. I’ll get them uploaded soon. I’ll post on here when they are available, make sure you’re subscribed so you get notified. 👊🏻
@@zorangraham5243 I’ve been slacking/busy schedule, but the plans and files are coming! Thanks for watching!👊🏻 I’ve settled on a price yet, but less than $10
It would have been terribly sad for you and yet deeply satisfying for me (as a viewer) if your air flow meter had been unexpectedly sucked up into your system on your first test!🤔 Nice build. Great attention to detail.
Just wanted to let you know that you are right about taking your reading at the hood opening. That is the most accurate location. The correct way to do it is to take several reading the more the better. Do not plug up the rest of the hood with you hands or the non important part the the devil. After taking several readings with maybe only a half inch movement that average the reading that will be the most accurate.
Rob, I'm gutted now that I've seen this video on your own design and build of the tablesaw overhead dust extraction system.The reason is simply because i spent £1,200 on the Shark overhead system from Harvey. What makes it worse is the fact that Harvey doesn't even have a store, etc, here in the UK, so i had to purchase it from a company here in the UK called Axminster. I guess I need my head checked for paying them this amount of money. Anyhow, I have to say I'm stunned by just how much cfm ratings you're actually getting from your system it's impressive. At least i was of some help with the 3d unit door seals in your previous video. As always buddy 💯% 👍 🇬🇧. P.s I'm curious as to what you have planned next for your workshop improvements 🤔.
@@simonr6793 what’s up dude! Hey if it makes you feel any better, if I was to buy one, I would by the shark! That is probably the best one. I like to make my own stuff for the pure enjoyment, the challenge, and to learn new skills. I’m really impressed with mine, and tried to make it look somewhat professional. The flows on it are great, and it helps that I have a good dust collection to support it. As for my next journey, I have a CNC on order, so I’ll be learning that, building a table for it, then updating my out feed table/ router table.👍🏻 Thanks for watching and keeping in touch.👊🏻
Nice one Rob, don't do what I have, I have the Shapeoko 5 pro it arrived around December last year and I still haven't had the chance to try to learn it. I managed to put it together in what was my wife's craft room, ( I've kicked her out! Only of the craft room😂). But since then life's just gone daft with health issues etc so it's just been sitting there collecting dust and cobwebs 😢
Great setup. Files for download would be amazing as well as a parts list. Would love to find more uses for all various hardware already stashed in my shop.
Thank you! I’m going to start working on the downloadable files and plans! I wasn’t sure if it was too “one off” and if people would even be interested. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!👊🏻
@@bmgeyer I don’t have a rolling list, so make sure you’re subbed so you will be notified when I make a post letting everyone know when they are available.👍🏻
Its a very nice build and well done, but I do have question: It seems like you have built in a 180 degree turns for the dust to travel before it gets to the main collector. Is there a reason for this? Why not just move the main collector upwards and have a straight shot? Otherwise thanks for the content. Good job!
At 00:04 It curves downwards as flex tubing and does a 180 turn. However I now see why: the design of the overarm hinge prevents you from running the tubing through the top and straight up, which means you go through the bottom and loop around. Your CFM is apparently just fine, so you can afford the 180 turn. Thank you sir, answered my own question.
@@Greybeardmedic exactly, I wanted to make sure I understood what part you were talking about before I responded. Yeah I tried different things, but that ended up being the best option. Air speeds are well above 4000fpm there, which is what’s needed to keep the dust entrained in the duct and prevent build up. Thanks for watching and commenting.👊🏻
I would purchase the plans, parts or files to print. Building a new shop and 6” dust collection system. Overarm dust collection is one of the weaknesses in any design.
I’m working on the instructions to go with the files! Thanks for watching and commenting. Make sure you’re subbed so you get notified when the files are available. 👊🏻
Hi brotha. just bought your plans. question, if i use pla or petg instead of what you recommended, will it be ok if its used in doors and not in the heat?also, will it have any issues with the abs cement? what are your thoughts on this
@@eladsinay6914 hey thanks for your purchase.👍🏻 yeah those will be fine as far has the environment you’re using them in, but I don’t think the abs cement will work. You’ll most likely need to find a different type of adhesive. That’s why I chose to use ASA, it made gluing the parts together very easy, especially attaching the acrylic.
@@brewbuilds Ill have to look into it and ask in the facebook forums to see what others have used with PLA and see if theres something good. Thank you, also, the type of infill used is not an option for me with my prusa slicer. dont know if it matters though, should be fine how i always print.
@@eladsinay6914 yeah that would be a good resource for sure. I know with PLA I see E6000 recommended a lot, but I’ve never used it, and I find CA glue to be fairly strong but it’s brittle. this design isn’t really being beat up or put through a lot of stress in its day to day use. Its only real job is to hang in position and suck dust. PETG is a nice material for its durability, but I’m just not experienced with adhering/gluing it together to recommend a product. I wouldn’t worry about the type of infill necessarily ( I can never keep up with the latest trend), but just use something you’re comfortable with and have had good luck with. When I designed this I kind of worked backwards and wanted to make the assembly process as easy as possible as I could. ASA proved to be the material that checked all the boxes for me, and is something I use quite a bit. Hopefully this has helped you out. And don’t hesitate to keep asking questions. I’m sure someone else along the way will find value in this down the road. And I’m always more than happy to help.👊🏻
@@brewbuilds ill get started printing now. im gonna have a lot of printing to do lol. let see how it goes. the bending of the acrylic is gonna be the hardest part. gotta make that same wooden thing you made too
i would of put the clear tube directly over the top of the blade . Maybe even some small rollers or brushes around the bottom lip as one of the suggestions below commented to catch even more dust. Good idea though
I couldn’t agree more about having the intake more above the blade. I think that would help with the lower cfm flows towards the front of the hood. I’d have to make some design changes to accommodate that. Sometimes you just have to start and make changes as you go.👊🏻
Lower your saw blade so that the teeth are just above the level of the board, and the gullets are below the level of the board. This will direct most of the dust down into the saw where the collection hose on the saw itself will pull almost all of the dust.
@@anthonygage1227 normally I would have my blade lowered as you described. With adding this over arm setup I wanted to try it raised, and actually is the proper way. Having your blade raised higher can actually give you a better cut. For the sake of the type of cut I was making (edge cut) and trying it at different heights, I found blade height didn’t really change the amount of dust being thrown. And in past experience prior to the hood and with my blade height lower I can confirm most of the dust, does not get pulled into the cabinet. Just my 2 cents. 👍🏻
ACGIH: American Conference of Governmental Industrial Hygienist. Your rotating vein anemometer can give false readings. The air is blocked by the size of the case, as compared to the duct size, artificially increasing the apparent flow rate. What you want is either a thermal anemometer or a pitot tube. You can measure nearly anywhere in the duct and back calculate your velocities...because what goes in (CFM) must come out (ignoring losses).
Hey! I’m 70 and I feel great. You’re still wet behind the ears at 37. Great video
😂 This is the best comment yet! Thank you for watching, and taking the time to comment and making me realize I’m just being a whiner! 😂👊🏻
I’m 75 and still get after it!
Age and its accompanied pain and fog builds character….
Great design and implementation!!
As a retired product designer, I love innovation!
Have to say as an engineer i found this fascinating and love how it all turned out. Super work
That means so much! I’m definitely no engineer, but I find (playing engineer) in my projects to be the most fun part! Don’t tell my engineer friends I said that - I’ll never hear the end of it! 😂
Thanks for watching and commenting. 👊🏻
Free or paid, it would be awesome for you to release the plans. I was about to start looking for overhead dust collection for my table saw as my new shop is 90-95% done. Just about to buy my spiral piping.
im working on getting a downloadable file package put together, so others can print their own parts to build this. thanks for watching and commenting. 👊
I’m with GP, free or paid, I’m still interested either way
@@brewbuildsmessage me if you need someone to draw it up 3D with working prints for each part of the assembly. Typically I charge for the service but I'll do this for free... Solidworks or AutoCAD
Same here!
Same here!
You should license this idea to the manufactures of tablesaws. Impressive work!
@@lars-erikeriksson896 I appreciate the compliment! Although this is my design and built from scratch, I’m not the first person to do this. Companies sell similar setups, and other people have also built their own. This was just my take on it, and a fun challenge for me. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.👊🏻
I don’t have a printer or any desire to learn how to print so I would be interested in purchasing the parts. Great design !
when you painted the pipe black I was like: "hell yeah". Great build!
It really pulled it together. After I painted it, realized I should have just bought a stick of ABS pipe. 😂
I love the design and performance of this! The files or plans would be a great addition to the woodworking community to help us save our lungs! (And keep our wives happy!)
Thank you, and I’m glad you like it! The plans are available on my Etsy store.👊🏻
Enjoy your videos and the way you attack a problem. This build, IMO, is another ingenious plan that solved a problem, Well done.
Thank you! These types of projects are always a blast to work through.
Wow! I thought I was the only woodworker who used transfer punches. I'm glad to see someone else recognizes their utility. Thanks for the great video.
I use transfer punches all the time! I guess I had never thought about not seeing others use them in woodworking. They are so handy.
Thanks for watching, and taking the time to comment. 👊🏻
Excellent job on design, build, and video production. We shared this video on our homemade tool forum last week 😎
@@homemadetools thank you so much! 👊🏻
You could mount a brush seal around the bottom edge of the hood (think the bottom of a garage door). This would prevent the throat plate from lifting and also provide a seal to prevent the remaining escaping dust.
came here to say this, a brush skirt is the way
I love this! I need to make one of these for dust removal and my own safety in the shop.
Thanks dude! It works great, and I wish I would have built it sooner. 👊🏻
Lots of us without 3D printers. Would like to purchase the printed parts! Great video
Thank you! I’m working on putting something together. 👊🏻
Great job on the design. It seems to work better than most things on the market! Would love to buy the parts printed as well
Thanks, That was a great Video, Love the way you thought it out and designed it, I know some people don't have 3d printers, I would say make File or Files available and as for making the parts, you can make a few and see how they sell or have a way they can order them. it just depends on how many request you get.😀
Great tutorial, my small hobby shop is needing something like this, hope plans or store products will be available..
Thank you! I’ll follow up with a video, or post and let everyone know when I make a decision on it. 👊🏻
This is a great design and video, I've been doing a bit of research on this recently and this video really shows the thought process, testing, tweaks, etc. Great job and well put together. Looking forward to the STL files once you have them available!!! I'm building a shop in my basement, so dust collection is paramount not only for my health but also making the Wife "ok" with me having it there. lol
Your thoroughness in the details earned you another subscriber. Love how you use science to back up why it works. Since I do not have a 3D printer, I would want to buy the complete hood attachment for over the blade. My dust collection system runs much lower in height, actually under the outfeed table, so I would want to be able to connect the hood a little differently.
Great video amazing job designing, and fabricating that new air system. Thanks for sharing
Thanks Jim, and thank you for watching, and taking the time to comment. 👊🏻
This is definitely the best secondary table saw dust collection system I’ve seen. I’d be keen to purchase parts.
@@peterspark2011 thank you so much! It’s working awesome! I’m working on getting downloadable files out, and hopefully physical parts to sell.
I was going to write you about that samething...if you sell parts I'd be interested..Great job!
Love the build. I would be interested in purchasing the pieces to assemble myself as I don't have a 3d printer. Also- would putting a 'brush sweep' ( like the have on the bottom of CNC bit) around the base of the unit contain more dust? I'm not critiquing- I'm new to this stuff- just asking. Thanks for the video! 👍
Thank you! No that’s a great suggestion/idea! I’m looking into the brush material to help with the collection. Along with getting some plans put together. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. I’m all about helping people in their workshops. 👊🏻
Uploading the STL's would be awesome!
I would also purchase them. Thank you for the video!
You bet! I’m working on the files and some instructions to go with them. 👊🏻
Awesome build and it looks great! Keep doing you and stay safe! Happy Building 😁
Thank you so much! You do the same.👊🏻
Thank you so much! You do the same.👊🏻
Loved the video. Very informative. I am definitely interested in your 3D plans for purchase. I have a Bambu Labs A1 printer. Super happy with it.
This looks like a great idea. I've been working on something similar myself...a 3D printed dust hood, but I like your lexan version better.
I like your design very much and your video was easy to follow. Do you have the 3D files available? I just bought a 3D printer and would love to make this project.
Great job - yes I’d be interested for my T- saw!
Really nice work and obviously a huge improvement. Complete arm-chair woodworking here but I’m curious given all that precision why you asked the flex hose to do so many gymnastics? Look at the shot at 15:00 and you can see a huge bend and slack at the blast gate and then a tight 180 followed by a 90 and finally another 90 just above the blade. All those bends, especially with flex hose has to be introducing all sorts of drag.
Had you put the boom arm significantly higher you could’ve got all your direction change out of a single 90 degree coming off the 4” pipe. Essentially it would come out from the down trunk via a Y and whatever the balance is from 90 and then into your horizontal 4” but then go straight down to your blade from above. You could use mostly pvc for that down run to improve flow and then just use flex hose (even though it’d run straight up and down) towards the very end as that flex would provide all the upward travel you’d need to get it out of the way when you don’t need it.
The challenge would be the blast gate being out of reach but perhaps this is a good case for an electronically controlled blast gate.
Then to go next level dork you connect the boom arm to a CNC style rail with a material thickness input at the saw so you just plug in your material thickness and the dust shroud (with brush added as many others have mentioned) will raise or lower to the appropriate height automatically. You could also tie in the blast gate control to this input so it’s all in one place and then you’d have an absurdly complex and nerdy way to remove a few percentage points of dust, but you’d also have another video to drive traffic which I’m betting is of just as much value to you 😉
I’m interested in the files or purchasing a kit. PS have you thought about adding some rollerblade wheels to the front and back and letting the hood ride the material? if the hood is too heavy, you could experiment with adding some springs to make the whole hood almost float on the work piece. I think some after market hoods do some similar. Either way, it’s an awesome design.
The files are available on my Etsy store, the link is in my video description.😁
As far as adding the wheels and spring, that was actually in my initial design. I felt it was getting a little to complex and I figured I’d get a working model going first and see what change were needed. I’m not sure the extra steps/work would make the overall performance better. But I may still experiment with it for fun! Thanks for watching and commenting. 👊🏻
This is rad, I wish I had the shop space to do something like this.
I'd love to see some aquarium videos in the future too!
Thanks dude! 👊🏻
Man I haven’t messed with aquariums in years. I think if I picked up another hobby my wife would shoot me. 😂
@@brewbuilds Haha, after years of fish tanks my wife is also strongly in favor of NOT having an aquarium ever again.
@ryanfiller 😂 I was single when I was really into it. My wife wouldn’t be a fan of it.
I would love the 3d print files. Great work, this looks awesome and seems like it performs way better than a lot of 3rd party overarm solutions. I would happily buy the 3d print files if you were wanting to sell them
Cool dust collector. Maybe add a skirt with some brush like material to the bottom so the suction area is sealed to the table top yet allowing the wood to pass thru it.
awesome build!! thanks for posting this.
@@EddyStyl3s you bet! Thanks for watching, and taking the time to comment! 👊🏻
Good stuff. I like the use of 3d printing.
Thank you!
Amazing design and meticulous build. I have a question. I have seen a lot of woodworking videos about dust collection. It seems everybody fights gravity. I wonder why folks always go up instead of down. I would think the majority; of the suction is consumed taking the dust on an upward journey.
Oh yeah: one other thing. That polycarbonate is incredibly strong. Why not make the frame for the over-blade part of the collection out of polycarbonate. That way everything would be transparent.
Pretty awesome. I am in the utilities also. Great work!
Thanks dude, what’s your profession? stay safe. 👊🏻
Great setup. One thing that may be useful is integrating a brush dust boot around the bottom. That way it can maintain a seal around the hood and wood being cut. It may also solve the problems with the insert plates because the brush will not let so much pressure build up.
Thank you! I’ve been looking at some different brush options to help. I’m not sure if it will make the insert plate better or worse. I think either way adding magnets would be a good move. 👊🏻 thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
@@brewbuilds I have a CNC and the brushes on the dust boot 100% help reduce the dust collection. When you are collection dust from an overhead vacuum, brushes provide the necessary curtain for maximum effectiveness. Another suggestion, angle the brushes, this will allow the brushes to flair out. This is important around the saw blade. I have some other ideas if you want to pursue this design. I have been looking at a number of designs and no one has even attempted it.
it looks and works spot on well done
Thank you! I was really happy with how it turned out!
I wish you good health and success, thanks for sharing
Thank you so much! I wish you the same! Such a nice comment, and I really appreciate it.👊🏻
This is so good! I wish I had room for a 3D printer.
Look into Bambu lab’s A1 series printers, they are fairly small. 👍🏻
Great solution. Would definitely be interested in replicating!
you need a hinged flap that the wood pushes up when it first slides under the dust hood, then the flap drops down when the wood is passed it at the end of the cut. This will capture the projectile dust from the blade when no wood is obstructing it. the saw bloade is tossing dust faster than the hood can pick it up. all you need to do is define the area where debris can be flung by the blade so the dust hood picks it up.
your demo at 13:49 is a little skewed because 99% of table saw cuts have wood on both side of the blade. if you do the test over again with 1" of wood being trimmed the debris will be dispersed only in the vector line of the blade spinning.
@@kjc10 I tossed around the flap idea, the issue with that is it would require the hood to be larger in size to accommodate the flap movement being to the forward direction and be clearance issues with how much blade is exposed for the type of cut. I thing the bristles broom concept like on cnc’s would be a better idea to adopt, but this would require me to move the whole assemble higher up to accommodate those, not an issue, but I just wanted to get a working model to see where improvements could be made.
I explained in the video that I chose that extreme edge cut, and using mdf to show the worst cause scenario to be able to compare with and without easier.
You are right the dust being flung off the blade can be traveling at speeds of 100mph, the main objective of the hood is to act as a shield to slow the particles down enough to allow the hood to then effectively suck them up.
Improvements will be made, but I can say this is a huge improvement over not having one.👍🏻
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. I truly appreciate it. 👊🏻
@@brewbuilds This cat figured out the variable geometry pick up: ruclips.net/video/TkYoLxlHAD0/видео.htmlsi=GJI_rLRDWyYYZsgY
his actually pivots down when the wood passes beyond it. He is using a shop vac and about 1.5" hose so it will be a low air volume pick-up, yet strong suction from the 100"~ of static pressure. Normal dust collectors have 10-20" of static pressure at most.
I watched the air measurements you made. you are measuring your ducting capacity which is correct at determining your system threshold. But also you need to factor in the geometry of input when in real-time use. Specifically the surface area of all air openings when moving stock thru the cutter. The 4" hose is going to be 12.6 sq. in. as a cross sectional surface area. This is the unimpeded surface area of your ducting speed, that you measured with your anemometer. when the hood was suspended wide open about 3-4" above the table. when the hood is suspended lower like 3/4" above the plywood, the open space will be greatly reduced. if you add intake vents that wouldn't expel the flung debris, the gain in unimpeded air volume will aid in velocity and pick up. You can test your dust collector system in this way by covering half the 4" hose end see how diminished input geometry and reduced air air volume also reduces speed.
Cool build. You've got a great engineering mind. That took a lot of thought and designing . And then having a printer helps. It would be great if you could market it .
Thank you so much! It was definitely a fun project!👊🏻
Very nice, take a bow, beautiful. Dave & The Girls
@@davepoidvin2364 Thanks Dave! 👊🏻
Awesome video and project!
Thanks dude! Sorry I just now saw your comment. Thanks for watching. 👊🏻
Great video! I’m definitely interested in buying the parts! No 3D printer or CNC here.
Great job, I've never seen your channel and just subscribed. Are you from WA? Did you put your plans online for download? Please let me know. Thank you for the video! Have a blessed day!
@@popopp2297 thank you! I do live in Wa. I don’t have the files available yet, but will very soon. 👍🏻
Love the idea , just a suggestion would gluing a y fitting somewhere along the arm and capping the end straighten the twist out of the flex hose to the hood. Might look a bit cleaner and increase cfm a bit more. But again great idea. God bless!!!
@@richardwadsworth4259 I tossed around that idea at the beginning, and was worried it would be too bulky. I have a spare wye maybe I’ll mock it up see how it looks, and run some flow tests. I took reads right at the end of the 4” pipe, and although that flex does slightly reduce the flow I don’t know if it’s enough to really make a huge difference.
But your idea might be fun to try out! Thanks for watching, and taking the time to comment!👊🏻
Have you seen HookedOnWood zero clearance insert video? He got better cabinet dust collection results when there were some holes in the insert, near but not at the blade so he still maintained the zero clearance at the blade. I think this might help improve your situation further even after the over arm build.
I haven’t seen that, I like the way it sounds though. I’ll check it out, thanks for the suggestion. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.👊🏻
would love to replicate this as i improve my shop. Your 3d design files would be awesome to have!! Great job!!!!
thanks dude! im working on getting a file package out for others to be able to print these parts them selves. thanks for watching, and taking the time to comment.👊
I like this format.
Hey Rob, great project and esp great use of 3D printing to tailor pieces for your needs. I've been wanting to replace / improve the current overhead dust collection on my Sawstop, and was thinking of something similar to what you made here. Couple of thoughts --1) I'd be very curious to see what effect it would have on dust capture if the hose were to attach at the front of the hood rather than the back as you have it. The cutting action where all the dust is created is happening exclusively at the front of the blade and getting the point of suction as close as possible to the source of dust is paramount. 2) how do you handle situations where the fence is very close to the blade for a narrow cut? I haven't decided how I will handle this, but my thinking is to have a shorter fence or a reversible fence so the hood and fence don't interfere with each other. 3) I like your height adjustability, but it looks like there will always still be a small gap between the bottom of the hood and the workpiece. What about installing brushes -- maybe short ones like an inch or less, to the bottom edge of the hood. I know that on my CNC the brushes make a HUGE difference because there is truly no gap between the hood and the cutting surface.
Anyway, great work and would love to hear your thoughts! All the best
Thanks for watching Carl. I think capturing more over the top of the blade or from the front would work better, and was a thought of mine. It just became a little harder in the design side of things and to keep the aesthetics there.
I’m looking into the cnc type brushes, I’m trying to find some that aren’t way too long. 👊🏻
@@brewbuilds you can always cut them down with scissors -- that's what I did! I definitely did not regret it -- the original brushes I had were 3" long and that was way too long and clumsy. I cut them to about 1 inch and that has worked really well. Good luck!
Thank you. Great job. Well done. I would be interested in the 3D files. Thx
I’m working on the instructions to go with the files! Thanks for watching, and make sure you’re subbed so you know when the file package becomes available. 👊🏻
Very cool build. I am going to do the same using magnets on the cast iron top (I mainly do small work). I would suggest you get some brush strips, I have used them in other dust collection builds and they really make a difference. New to your channel, will check out your other stuff and consider subscribing.
The brush strips are in the works!
Suggestion. Route another duct into the saw cabinet for additional dust collection.
I would 100% pay for some of the .stl/plans/etc. Awesome project!
Heck yeah! I’ll start working on putting some file packages together. I’ll either do a follow up video or just do a community post to keep everyone informed. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. 👊🏻
Really nice build! I'd be interested in the files to print. Getting the original Fusion360 (or whatever you did your design in) would be even better so I can tweak it a bit to my setup.
Amazing job. Would love a copy of the 3D print files to make my own.
Thank you! I’m working on getting the files uploaded. 👊🏻
im at the part where youre about to test and i have to say, im sitting here and shaking my head at how amazing this build is. ive seem em all and one in particular was so innovative to also make a piece of lexan on the left to catch dust from edge cuts but using the 3d printer,,, i mean bravooooo. I definitely want those files. pleaseeeeeeee
Heck yeah! Thanks for watching and commenting. I’m working on getting the files put together. 👊🏻
@@brewbuilds you got me rubbing my hands and going heck yahhhhh
oh by the way, if this works, my next stpe is to incorporate the 3d printed ball style blast gates and one person has a version already to allow quick mount of the servo so it can be automated and thats a whooooole other thing ill have to learn. it involves an arduino to control the parameters, for example to say, when machine 1 turns on, open blast gate 1 and close blast gate 3,4 and 6 and the same goes for the other blast gates. If this is put together with the auto on and off i think its the pinnacle of dust collection.... well that and metal pipes that are 6 or 8 inches would be but this is better than most lol
Great video! I would be interested in the 3D part file.
Im on par with the comments about a brush seal at the edges. I think it would allow more air flow from the bottom edges reducing dust escaping. Maybe spring loaded to compensate for different material thickness. Just spit balling here.
Totally interested in the plans to be able to make myself or buy the parts
I’d like to see you make a new zero clearance insert with magnets. It would be cool to see a 3D printed version vs a regular shop made version.
sir I would love to have 3d files Great job
I love your concept. Since my ceiling is 10' and I don't have a post/pole to pivot the dust arm, I'll be using the ceiling for the anchor point. So, if you can post plans (.pdf or .skp) I'd love it (and pay you for it)!
Thank you! With my busy summer schedule coming to an end, and some complications with my Etsy store, I’m hoping the files will be uploaded this week. My file package so far consists of .stl files, and .3mf files. So far what I’ve gathered from the comments most people are wanting to 3D print the parts. If you can tell me what you’re looking to do more specific I maybe be able to make something work for you. I’m assuming you are looking for .skp files because you use SketchUp and are wanting to play around with how to make it work in your shop?
Thanks for watching and commenting.👊🏻
You did a good job!
@@NoelPepin thank you. 👊🏻
i am in the process of building my dream shop, long way to go :) and this would be an awesome addition. would love to get a hold of the files.
Thanks for watching. I’m working on putting a file package together for people to download. Good luck on building your shop, keep me posted on the progress!👊🏻
I want the STL. I will add brushes, they work well on my CNC to pick up the dust.
Great build… definitely I would like to purchase the 3d files if you make them available.
Thank you!👊🏻 I think I’m going to start to put together a file with all the parts, and I write up on the assembly. 👍🏻thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
I would be interested in your files to print some parts. Your design is great.
@@FatboyRon2466 thank you, now that things are slowing down for me I’ll be getting them uploaded. I was putting together a brief write up to include with the file package to help with the build. Make sure you’re subscribed because I’ll do a follow up video and a community post when they become available.
Thanks for watching. 👊🏻
Of course I want the STL files!!!!
Great setup, would be nice to have the files to download.
Thank you! I’m going to work on getting the files put together, and some assembly instructions written up. 👊🏻
well done sir!
Thanks dude! 👊🏻
I'd be interested in the STL file.
I’m working on cleaning them up. I’ll get them uploaded soon. I’ll post on here when they are available, make sure you’re subscribed so you get notified. 👊🏻
Excellent man! I would love to be able to buy those designs.
I’m going to start working on the downloadable files, and write up on the assembly. 👊🏻
Wow. I would love to print this. Please provide 3D files. How much?
@@zorangraham5243 I’ve been slacking/busy schedule, but the plans and files are coming! Thanks for watching!👊🏻
I’ve settled on a price yet, but less than $10
Awesome video dude!! 🍻
Thanks bro! 👊🏻
It would have been terribly sad for you and yet deeply satisfying for me (as a viewer) if your air flow meter had been unexpectedly sucked up into your system on your first test!🤔
Nice build. Great attention to detail.
I would be interested in the files or purchasing.
Just wanted to let you know that you are right about taking your reading at the hood opening. That is the most accurate location. The correct way to do it is to take several reading the more the better. Do not plug up the rest of the hood with you hands or the non important part the the devil. After taking several readings with maybe only a half inch movement that average the reading that will be the most accurate.
Rob, I'm gutted now that I've seen this video on your own design and build of the tablesaw overhead dust extraction system.The reason is simply because i spent £1,200 on the Shark overhead system from Harvey. What makes it worse is the fact that Harvey doesn't even have a store, etc, here in the UK, so i had to purchase it from a company here in the UK called Axminster. I guess I need my head checked for paying them this amount of money. Anyhow, I have to say I'm stunned by just how much cfm ratings you're actually getting from your system it's impressive. At least i was of some help with the 3d unit door seals in your previous video. As always buddy 💯% 👍 🇬🇧.
P.s I'm curious as to what you have planned next for your workshop improvements 🤔.
@@simonr6793 what’s up dude! Hey if it makes you feel any better, if I was to buy one, I would by the shark! That is probably the best one. I like to make my own stuff for the pure enjoyment, the challenge, and to learn new skills. I’m really impressed with mine, and tried to make it look somewhat professional. The flows on it are great, and it helps that I have a good dust collection to support it.
As for my next journey, I have a CNC on order, so I’ll be learning that, building a table for it, then updating my out feed table/ router table.👍🏻
Thanks for watching and keeping in touch.👊🏻
Nice one Rob, don't do what I have, I have the Shapeoko 5 pro it arrived around December last year and I still haven't had the chance to try to learn it. I managed to put it together in what was my wife's craft room, ( I've kicked her out! Only of the craft room😂). But since then life's just gone daft with health issues etc so it's just been sitting there collecting dust and cobwebs 😢
Great setup.
Files for download would be amazing as well as a parts list. Would love to find more uses for all various hardware already stashed in my shop.
Thank you! I’m going to start working on the downloadable files and plans! I wasn’t sure if it was too “one off” and if people would even be interested. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!👊🏻
@@brewbuilds I would 100% print the parts and build this myself.
I would also be interested in downloading the files!
Add me to the list of people interested in the print files.
@@bmgeyer I don’t have a rolling list, so make sure you’re subbed so you will be notified when I make a post letting everyone know when they are available.👍🏻
Its a very nice build and well done, but I do have question: It seems like you have built in a 180 degree turns for the dust to travel before it gets to the main collector. Is there a reason for this? Why not just move the main collector upwards and have a straight shot?
Otherwise thanks for the content. Good job!
Are you referring to where I transition from the 4” over arm duct to my 6” vertical duct?
At 00:04 It curves downwards as flex tubing and does a 180 turn. However I now see why: the design of the overarm hinge prevents you from running the tubing through the top and straight up, which means you go through the bottom and loop around. Your CFM is apparently just fine, so you can afford the 180 turn. Thank you sir, answered my own question.
@@Greybeardmedic exactly, I wanted to make sure I understood what part you were talking about before I responded. Yeah I tried different things, but that ended up being the best option. Air speeds are well above 4000fpm there, which is what’s needed to keep the dust entrained in the duct and prevent build up. Thanks for watching and commenting.👊🏻
I would purchase the plans, parts or files to print. Building a new shop and 6” dust collection system. Overarm dust collection is one of the weaknesses in any design.
I’m working on the instructions to go with the files! Thanks for watching and commenting. Make sure you’re subbed so you get notified when the files are available. 👊🏻
Ingenious! Thanks
Thank you!
Hi brotha. just bought your plans. question, if i use pla or petg instead of what you recommended, will it be ok if its used in doors and not in the heat?also, will it have any issues with the abs cement? what are your thoughts on this
@@eladsinay6914 hey thanks for your purchase.👍🏻 yeah those will be fine as far has the environment you’re using them in, but I don’t think the abs cement will work. You’ll most likely need to find a different type of adhesive. That’s why I chose to use ASA, it made gluing the parts together very easy, especially attaching the acrylic.
@@brewbuilds Ill have to look into it and ask in the facebook forums to see what others have used with PLA and see if theres something good. Thank you, also, the type of infill used is not an option for me with my prusa slicer. dont know if it matters though, should be fine how i always print.
@@eladsinay6914 yeah that would be a good resource for sure. I know with PLA I see E6000 recommended a lot, but I’ve never used it, and I find CA glue to be fairly strong but it’s brittle. this design isn’t really being beat up or put through a lot of stress in its day to day use. Its only real job is to hang in position and suck dust. PETG is a nice material for its durability, but I’m just not experienced with adhering/gluing it together to recommend a product. I wouldn’t worry about the type of infill necessarily ( I can never keep up with the latest trend), but just use something you’re comfortable with and have had good luck with.
When I designed this I kind of worked backwards and wanted to make the assembly process as easy as possible as I could. ASA proved to be the material that checked all the boxes for me, and is something I use quite a bit.
Hopefully this has helped you out. And don’t hesitate to keep asking questions. I’m sure someone else along the way will find value in this down the road. And I’m always more than happy to help.👊🏻
@@brewbuilds ill get started printing now. im gonna have a lot of printing to do lol. let see how it goes. the bending of the acrylic is gonna be the hardest part. gotta make that same wooden thing you made too
Awesome video. Make plans available I would buy the plans if available!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you! The plans are live and for sale on my Etsy store. The link is posted in the video description.👍🏻
Would take the files. Just went to Grizzly to buy just the hood piece and they charge $182! For a piece of molded plastic. Great timing on your video.
It’s crazy how expensive they are. I’m working on getting a file package put together to make them available. 👊🏻
Would def be interested in files
Very nice design!!!!
You got it dude! I’m working on getting the files to put together. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. 👊🏻
I don't have a 3D printer nor the skill to make this. Is there a product with similar functionality that I can buy?
Very nice 👊🏽
Thanks bro! I appreciate the watch and comment. 👊🏻
Please release plans and SVG files for the 3D parts.
The plans/files are listed on my Etsy shop. Brewbuilds.👊🏻
I'd love to buy the parts. I don't have access to a 3D printer.
i would of put the clear tube directly over the top of the blade . Maybe even some small rollers or brushes around the bottom lip as one of the suggestions below commented to catch even more dust. Good idea though
I couldn’t agree more about having the intake more above the blade. I think that would help with the lower cfm flows towards the front of the hood. I’d have to make some design changes to accommodate that. Sometimes you just have to start and make changes as you go.👊🏻
Would purchase parts. I would however make it ceiling mounted for my set up. I would buy the complete set however. So let me know what you do.
Lower your saw blade so that the teeth are just above the level of the board, and the gullets are below the level of the board. This will direct most of the dust down into the saw where the collection hose on the saw itself will pull almost all of the dust.
@@anthonygage1227 normally I would have my blade lowered as you described. With adding this over arm setup I wanted to try it raised, and actually is the proper way. Having your blade raised higher can actually give you a better cut. For the sake of the type of cut I was making (edge cut) and trying it at different heights, I found blade height didn’t really change the amount of dust being thrown.
And in past experience prior to the hood and with my blade height lower I can confirm most of the dust, does not get pulled into the cabinet. Just my 2 cents. 👍🏻
Nice!!!!!!
ACGIH: American Conference of Governmental Industrial Hygienist. Your rotating vein anemometer can give false readings. The air is blocked by the size of the case, as compared to the duct size, artificially increasing the apparent flow rate. What you want is either a thermal anemometer or a pitot tube. You can measure nearly anywhere in the duct and back calculate your velocities...because what goes in (CFM) must come out (ignoring losses).
Yeah I had to look it up, I did display it on the video.😉
Please share the print files.
I’m working on getting them out. I’m writing up some assembly instructions to go with the files.👊🏻