From 1998 8mm camcorder to point and shoot digital cameras to retirement to drones and than to "real" camera photography. Just recently purchased the Sigma 100=400 mm lens for my Sony e mount. I'd gotten very comfortable over the last few years with the 18-135 mm lens I bought with it. But I started noticing limitations, hence the Sigma 100-400 mm lens purchase. First thing I noticed was how heavy and un-wieldy the lens is. Your video, more than most others I watched, gave me a better understanding of what I should do and how I should go about doing it. Thank you.
Just ordered the same lens for my Sony. Until now had been shooting with a Nikon P900, which is nice but just doesn't serve my needs anymore. Can't wait to try it out. Happy photographing :)
Consider breathing as I have learned in Tango dance competition to make complicated moves and ocho's flow. I took it to the pistol team and found scores sore, then on the high-power rifle range again the practice of slowly exhaling while squeezing the trigger. I applied it to my Nikkor 200-500 F 5.6 and the results were amazing, coupled with other shooting tips of bracing the carrying arm against ribcage and pulling up with "trigger hand" on shutter release
I taught shooting sports at a summer camp years ago and yes just as you said the breathing techniques work very similar as if you were target shooting with a rifle. There is also the "follow through" that is similar where you take the shot but deliberately wait a second. When you shoot and immediately pull the camera up your body was most likely already moving before the sequence was over. In rifles that means your shot going higher than you wanted. In long lens photography that results in a blur that's hard to pinpoint.
Great tips! I have 2 telephoto lenses. One is very lightweight but fixed at F/11 (Canon RF 800mm F/11) which is great for hiking on sunny days. The other is heavy ( Canon RF 200-800mm) which I use in my popup blind for wildlife photos when I am waiting and not walking much.
Yes, working up to it is a good idea. I carry 4.3 kgs and shoot handheld, often with grabshots as BIF are the subject. OSS or VR are limited. It pays to let the rig settle a moment after you've swung it up. The OSS mode really makes a difference on Sony gear; less so on Nikon. I'm a fan of the 'kneepod' and wear a kneepad to make that more comfortable. Often you want to get lower anyway. And for ground level birds bringing along a tarp to lie on and resting the lens on the foot while using the flippy screen takes all the weight off you. For moving about vigorously - rock hopping, cycling or skiing - a holster on a harness holds the rig steady and leaves your hands free. Cotton Carrier units work well.
My training as a rifle and pistol shooter have made me get very good techniques for keeping steady and also helped me get stronger to actually manage to lift my heavy camera and lens. I have a old Nikon D3 with a 100 - 400mm zoom with no image stabilization and usually just shoots handheld with it with short shutter times and the machine gun method full auto trigger 6 or 9fps (usually 3 or 4 frames per shot and you get one crystal clear one and a few blurry but end result is what matter). More weight I have found helps a lot to avoid motion blur, I get better pictures freehand with my heavy D3 without any IS then a light Nikon cam with image stabilization (the built in image stabilization on Nikon suck).
I carry a wrist support beanie bag with my big lens and will sometimes prop the lens up on the roof of my car (I'm tall ) with the mount foot renting on the beanie bag if I'm near my car. I find that leaning against a solid object also helps , trees/poles/side of a house. If there's a solid object like a pole I can grab with my left hand I'll grab it and then put the lens on my extended arm. Anything that helps stabilize you works well. Plus make sure you breath , release and then stop and take the photo and then take a second after pressing the release.
I have the Nikon 500PF lens. While not as heavy as your Sony, it can tire the hands quickly. I use a Cotton Carrier and hang my camera and lens from my chest when I hike. It's super fast and easy to get the camera into action and suitable for women of many different sizes/body types. Loved the video as always, especially all the footage from Yellowstone and Grand Teton!
Great informational video! We just got back from Yellowstone and the Grand Tetons ourselves. Fabulous photographic opportunities! We even experience a "Bison Jam" where the Bison was leisurely strolling down the road, with 20 or more vehicles waiting patiently behind him, in the opposite direction we were traveling. The baby Bison reminded us of big dogs. We did see one Moose along with several Elk crossing the road in front of us. I wound up using my P&S Sony RX10 MKIV more than my Canon 5D MKIV with the huge/heavy 300mm F2.8 and 2x extender. The smaller sensor Sony worked fine since the lighting was so bright and the flexibility of the 24mm to 600mm range helped as well. Perhaps I will use KEH to sell some of the gear I'm no longer using and upgrade to a FF mirrorless such as the Sony A1 or one of the Canon similar cameras.
I have the Sigma 150-600mm lens. It's heavy, and my wrists are shot from too much keyboarding and other things over a long life (I'm nearly 70). I use it handheld because I can't stand hauling around a tripod, and wildlife doesn't wait for you to set up in any case. :) A shoulder strap helps redistribute the weight of that lens while I'm walking around, but I'll also carry it like a baby (across the chest or propped on a shoulder). Whatever works!
I no longer attempt hand holding long shots. Muscular Dystrophy makes long lenses and stead shots just aren't compatible. Smaller cameras with long lenses and tripods are in my future. Good tips, good technique.
It is different for everyone. I just did some(realistically to far) Great Blue Heron photos that were pretty far off & had to crop the image to probably a tenth of the original size. I used a tripod. The photos are ok but could be just a little better. My first GBH so I’ll keep them & if I get better ones in the future they will get rotated out & replaced with the better. A big thing with a lot of wildlife photos is learning to get close enough without disturbing them (bears & such excluded) to get a decent photo. Having a lens I can’t afford like a 600 f4 would probably help a little but, not as much as knowing your subject & being able to safely get closer. Happy shooting.
Good IDEAS all... You can also BE the tripod... I use a heavy duty binocular harness that you find in a hunting/gun store/site. They have two hooks to attach to the peak design loops. Instead of a backpack I wear a big photo vest and while walking about the lens hangs under the vest (unseen) but easy to use. The harness straps (adjustable) stretch firmly when camera and lens are lifted up to your eye making your body like a tree/post (sorta) but more stable. This setup also comes in handy to carry camera and lens while deer hunting all day for several days and setting in a blind and doing nature shots while waiting for good diner meal, be surprised all that happens birds/little deer/squirrel/rabbits etc. but easily carried along with rifle/backpack and if necessary not in the way if I need to drag my future diners many yards. But also a long day at the Zoo. The lens will focus on the moon so if walking about no tripod need! Something I did some years ago while spelunking where tripods not aloud and using the A7s and Voigtlander 10mm (no IS), used a elastic bungee cord through by belt to the tripod plate and the camera strap tight, got wider shots than anyone ever!!
What if my back hurts anyway? And we dont have doctor services in my country. I just bought Sigma 150-600mm sport. It weights almost 3kg. Feels more heavy than I thought.
thank you for the video i really needed to have some advice, i used my 150-600mm for the first time today and got many photos that i was not altogether pleased with but, although i got a fair amount that i liked and were sharp it was a little annoying not getting more sharp pics so once again thank you!
Use marksman technique and put your left upper arm perpendicular to the ground with elbow against your waist. Agree physical strength is key. Especially grip.
hey leigh, in your opinion, does the IBIS really matter? or the OSS is just enough. I have a combo a6400 + 200600 and extremely struggling with it. Should i upgrade to a camera with IBIS? or just "practice makes perfect"? thx in adv
Glad I discovered your channel. Rented a Sony 200-600 for this week and found it very difficult to hold it stable, hand held. I like to photograph planes landing and taking off. I found it difficult to pan smoothly with this lens. Using a tripod made it worse. So hopefully your video will help me.
Wish I had seen this video, before I rented that same Sony 200-600. I've found it very difficult to handle that thing, handheld, when I am trying to photograph fast flying aircraft or even bird photography. The thing hurts my arms after just a few seconds.
Great tips! I've seen other photographers use a monopod and carry the camera around over their shoulder while attached. Is that technically ok or a big no no?
They did not have a quick release head on the monopod and it’s a huddle to unscrew the camera all the time; so they ended up doing this unorthodox carrying. Not recommended.
My biggest struggle is manual focus with my p950. That, and light control. Such as objects outside with back light or low light. I primarily use aperture priority
You had me at Yellow Stone and Grand Teton :). I love national parks. Not sure when I'll involve the super telephoto though since more often than not I'm hiking or backpacking.
Thank you for the video. I really recommend a camera strap where the QD is native to the strap instead putting PD connector onto a QD connector. Magpul and BlackRapid make very nice adjustable straps with QD connectors native to them instead of attaching a QD connector to Peak Design strap. I still use Peak Design straps as well just not for lens feet or camera plates that are designed for QD.
Leigh, do you know if there's any difference requirement with shutter speed if you are zoomed in to 600mm vs 150mm with a subject that is moving at the same speed in each situation (separate from the fact that it's way harder to handhold at 600mm)? So, if you're shooting a still subject at 1/600th at 600mm, would you go even higher for a moving subject? I'm wondering if you at 600mm the movement of the subject appears exaggerated so that you would need an even faster shutter speed.
Hi Leigh, your tips pretty much follow the techniques I've used for years (decades now) including using a monopod, tripod with gimbal, and the Black Rapid sportsling for carrying the camera and lens (like your RRS quick detach). I have 2 questions for you. 1. Have tried the Cotton Carrier chest harness and if so what do you think of it? 2. Do you have any tips for carrying a monopod attached or detached? Thanks in advance for responding. BTW I did subscribe.
pro tip... if you are with someone... use their shoulder as a monopod, even better if you can make them wear the whole setup on a strap just slide it around prop it on their shoulder and tell them to stop moving and act as your spotter too
In regards to image stabilisation, I've been told using a too fast shutter is the same as using stabilisation on a tripod eg. It causes bluring of the image
Using stabilization (in-body or optical) while the camera/lens are on a tripod can cause issues, though not always. It's a good idea to turn it off just to be sure. However, a fast shutter speed causing blur is highly unlikely. If you have used a lens where the stabilization causes issues when the shutter speed is high, please let me know which one. I'd be interested to look into it.
Try turning VR/OSS off at speeds over 500 and see what results you get. There can be a conflict of stabilisation movement frequency and the shutter opening and closing.. It may not show on every shot. Of course you lose a stabilised image in the VF and for erraticly moving subjects that can be a high price to pay.
You multiply using the crop factor eg a 500mm turns into 1/750s on a non full frame camera ALTHOUGH camera or lens stabilisation can reduce that even at -5 shutter steps; ie I can shoot still objects sharply with a crop 500mm lens at 1/100s.
There is technique. But there is now substitute for shear dumb luck. Last week I got 5 out of 7 sharp shots at 280mm iso 10 000 and 1/20! … handheld out of a game drive vehicle in the dark just about. I’m stoked! I know I have good technique and the R7 with the EF 100-400L ii is is great with stabilisation but still - this was luck!
I just got back from Yellowstone too! I'm practicing with my 200-600mm but I lean too heavily on the shutter speed to compensate, so I ended up shooting bears in the early morning light at 1000-1200 and there is so much noise. For slow moving subjects, what shutter speed would you use?
I regularly handhold my Canon 500 f4 II with 2x, adapter, and R5. I use a BlackRapid strap across the shoulder, attached to the tripod mount, when I'm not actively shooting.
I don't consider a Sony 200-600mm to be very large or heavy. The friends I have who use this lens all do it handheld, while these same people always use a tripod when they use truly big lenses. Among wildlife photographers, the 200-600mm is generally considered to be a smaller, handholdable lens, not at all in the same category as 600mm f4 lenses or 800mm f5.6 lenses.
I'm not sure, but referring to yourself as a "Chick" is not doing you any favours. In the UK, that term is used in the pejorative sense, like "babe" and trivialises your advice somewhat.
![Twenty One Pilots - “The Line” (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/E2Rj2gQAyPA/mqdefault.jpg)
From 1998 8mm camcorder to point and shoot digital cameras to retirement to drones and than to "real" camera photography. Just recently purchased the Sigma 100=400 mm lens
for my Sony e mount. I'd gotten very comfortable over the last few years with the 18-135 mm lens I bought with it. But I started noticing limitations, hence the Sigma 100-400 mm lens purchase.
First thing I noticed was how heavy and un-wieldy the lens is. Your video, more than most others I watched, gave me a better understanding of what I should do and how I should go
about doing it. Thank you.
Just ordered the same lens for my Sony. Until now had been shooting with a Nikon P900, which is nice but just doesn't serve my needs anymore. Can't wait to try it out. Happy photographing :)
Consider breathing as I have learned in Tango dance competition to make complicated moves and ocho's flow. I took it to the pistol team and found scores sore, then on the high-power rifle range again the practice of slowly exhaling while squeezing the trigger. I applied it to my Nikkor 200-500 F 5.6 and the results were amazing, coupled with other shooting tips of bracing the carrying arm against ribcage and pulling up with "trigger hand" on shutter release
I taught shooting sports at a summer camp years ago and yes just as you said the breathing techniques work very similar as if you were target shooting with a rifle. There is also the "follow through" that is similar where you take the shot but deliberately wait a second. When you shoot and immediately pull the camera up your body was most likely already moving before the sequence was over. In rifles that means your shot going higher than you wanted. In long lens photography that results in a blur that's hard to pinpoint.
Great tips! I have 2 telephoto lenses. One is very lightweight but fixed at F/11 (Canon RF 800mm F/11) which is great for hiking on sunny days. The other is heavy ( Canon RF 200-800mm) which I use in my popup blind for wildlife photos when I am waiting and not walking much.
What was that part that you pushed into camera plate please. Thanks for great video
Great video. Do you have a link to where I can get the Quick Detach connector?
Yes, working up to it is a good idea.
I carry 4.3 kgs and shoot handheld, often with grabshots as BIF are the subject. OSS or VR are limited. It pays to let the rig settle a moment after you've swung it up. The OSS mode really makes a difference on Sony gear; less so on Nikon.
I'm a fan of the 'kneepod' and wear a kneepad to make that more comfortable. Often you want to get lower anyway. And for ground level birds bringing along a tarp to lie on and resting the lens on the foot while using the flippy screen takes all the weight off you.
For moving about vigorously - rock hopping, cycling or skiing - a holster on a harness holds the rig steady and leaves your hands free. Cotton Carrier units work well.
My training as a rifle and pistol shooter have made me get very good techniques for keeping steady and also helped me get stronger to actually manage to lift my heavy camera and lens.
I have a old Nikon D3 with a 100 - 400mm zoom with no image stabilization and usually just shoots handheld with it with short shutter times and the machine gun method full auto trigger 6 or 9fps (usually 3 or 4 frames per shot and you get one crystal clear one and a few blurry but end result is what matter). More weight I have found helps a lot to avoid motion blur, I get better pictures freehand with my heavy D3 without any IS then a light Nikon cam with image stabilization (the built in image stabilization on Nikon suck).
I carry a wrist support beanie bag with my big lens and will sometimes prop the lens up on the roof of my car (I'm tall ) with the mount foot renting on the beanie bag if I'm near my car.
I find that leaning against a solid object also helps , trees/poles/side of a house.
If there's a solid object like a pole I can grab with my left hand I'll grab it and then put the lens on my extended arm.
Anything that helps stabilize you works well. Plus make sure you breath , release and then stop and take the photo and then take a second after pressing the release.
I have the Nikon 500PF lens. While not as heavy as your Sony, it can tire the hands quickly. I use a Cotton Carrier and hang my camera and lens from my chest when I hike. It's super fast and easy to get the camera into action and suitable for women of many different sizes/body types. Loved the video as always, especially all the footage from Yellowstone and Grand Teton!
Great informational video!
We just got back from Yellowstone and the Grand Tetons ourselves. Fabulous photographic opportunities! We even experience a "Bison Jam" where the Bison was leisurely strolling down the road, with 20 or more vehicles waiting patiently behind him, in the opposite direction we were traveling. The baby Bison reminded us of big dogs. We did see one Moose along with several Elk crossing the road in front of us.
I wound up using my P&S Sony RX10 MKIV more than my Canon 5D MKIV with the huge/heavy 300mm F2.8 and 2x extender. The smaller sensor Sony worked fine since the lighting was so bright and the flexibility of the 24mm to 600mm range helped as well.
Perhaps I will use KEH to sell some of the gear I'm no longer using and upgrade to a FF mirrorless such as the Sony A1 or one of the Canon similar cameras.
I have the Sigma 150-600mm lens. It's heavy, and my wrists are shot from too much keyboarding and other things over a long life (I'm nearly 70). I use it handheld because I can't stand hauling around a tripod, and wildlife doesn't wait for you to set up in any case. :) A shoulder strap helps redistribute the weight of that lens while I'm walking around, but I'll also carry it like a baby (across the chest or propped on a shoulder). Whatever works!
I no longer attempt hand holding long shots. Muscular Dystrophy makes long lenses and stead shots just aren't compatible. Smaller cameras with long lenses and tripods are in my future. Good tips, good technique.
It is different for everyone. I just did some(realistically to far) Great Blue Heron photos that were pretty far off & had to crop the image to probably a tenth of the original size. I used a tripod. The photos are ok but could be just a little better. My first GBH so I’ll keep them & if I get better ones in the future they will get rotated out & replaced with the better. A big thing with a lot of wildlife photos is learning to get close enough without disturbing them (bears & such excluded) to get a decent photo. Having a lens I can’t afford like a 600 f4 would probably help a little but, not as much as knowing your subject & being able to safely get closer. Happy shooting.
Good IDEAS all... You can also BE the tripod... I use a heavy duty binocular harness that you find in a hunting/gun store/site. They have two hooks to attach to the peak design loops. Instead of a backpack I wear a big photo vest and while walking about the lens hangs under the vest (unseen) but easy to use. The harness straps (adjustable) stretch firmly when camera and lens are lifted up to your eye making your body like a tree/post (sorta) but more stable. This setup also comes in handy to carry camera and lens while deer hunting all day for several days and setting in a blind and doing nature shots while waiting for good diner meal, be surprised all that happens birds/little deer/squirrel/rabbits etc. but easily carried along with rifle/backpack and if necessary not in the way if I need to drag my future diners many yards. But also a long day at the Zoo. The lens will focus on the moon so if walking about no tripod need! Something I did some years ago while spelunking where tripods not aloud and using the A7s and Voigtlander 10mm (no IS), used a elastic bungee cord through by belt to the tripod plate and the camera strap tight, got wider shots than anyone ever!!
What if my back hurts anyway? And we dont have doctor services in my country. I just bought Sigma 150-600mm sport. It weights almost 3kg. Feels more heavy than I thought.
Very nice pictures and interesting video as usual 🤗
thank you for the video i really needed to have some advice, i used my 150-600mm for the first time today and got many photos that i was not altogether pleased with but, although i got a fair amount that i liked and were sharp it was a little annoying not getting more sharp pics so once again thank you!
Use marksman technique and put your left upper arm perpendicular to the ground with elbow against your waist. Agree physical strength is key. Especially grip.
hey leigh, in your opinion, does the IBIS really matter? or the OSS is just enough. I have a combo a6400 + 200600 and extremely struggling with it. Should i upgrade to a camera with IBIS? or just "practice makes perfect"? thx in adv
Glad I discovered your channel. Rented a Sony 200-600 for this week and found it very difficult to hold it stable, hand held. I like to photograph planes landing and taking off. I found it difficult to pan smoothly with this lens.
Using a tripod made it worse. So hopefully your video will help me.
Excellent tips…looking forward to your comparison video on the Sony A1 and RIV.
Wish I had seen this video, before I rented that same Sony 200-600. I've found it very difficult to handle that thing, handheld, when I am trying to photograph fast flying aircraft or even bird photography.
The thing hurts my arms after just a few seconds.
Great tips!
I've seen other photographers use a monopod and carry the camera around over their shoulder while attached. Is that technically ok or a big no no?
They did not have a quick release head on the monopod and it’s a huddle to unscrew the camera all the time; so they ended up doing this unorthodox carrying. Not recommended.
Realistic and practical advice, once again! Thanks again.
I have a non VR 70-200 Nikon Lens. Any advise?
My biggest struggle is manual focus with my p950. That, and light control. Such as objects outside with back light or low light. I primarily use aperture priority
Great video. I’ve gotten pretty good lately at using barbed wire ranch fences.
You had me at Yellow Stone and Grand Teton :). I love national parks. Not sure when I'll involve the super telephoto though since more often than not I'm hiking or backpacking.
Thank you for the video. I really recommend a camera strap where the QD is native to the strap instead putting PD connector onto a QD connector. Magpul and BlackRapid make very nice adjustable straps with QD connectors native to them instead of attaching a QD connector to Peak Design strap. I still use Peak Design straps as well just not for lens feet or camera plates that are designed for QD.
I do dread using my telephoto. Thanks for the helpful tips.
Leigh, do you know if there's any difference requirement with shutter speed if you are zoomed in to 600mm vs 150mm with a subject that is moving at the same speed in each situation (separate from the fact that it's way harder to handhold at 600mm)? So, if you're shooting a still subject at 1/600th at 600mm, would you go even higher for a moving subject? I'm wondering if you at 600mm the movement of the subject appears exaggerated so that you would need an even faster shutter speed.
Hi Leigh, your tips pretty much follow the techniques I've used for years (decades now) including using a monopod, tripod with gimbal, and the Black Rapid sportsling for carrying the camera and lens (like your RRS quick detach). I have 2 questions for you. 1. Have tried the Cotton Carrier chest harness and if so what do you think of it? 2. Do you have any tips for carrying a monopod attached or detached? Thanks in advance for responding. BTW I did subscribe.
pro tip... if you are with someone... use their shoulder as a monopod, even better if you can make them wear the whole setup on a strap just slide it around prop it on their shoulder and tell them to stop moving and act as your spotter too
Photo lens catty 😆
really helpful video thank you very much! your photos are awesome!
Holding my 500mm prime on a fixed object is very hard, but panning it on a bird in flight is rather easy for me.
Great video on the subject. Thank you!
Monopod with tripod bases are great.
In regards to image stabilisation, I've been told using a too fast shutter is the same as using stabilisation on a tripod eg. It causes bluring of the image
Using stabilization (in-body or optical) while the camera/lens are on a tripod can cause issues, though not always. It's a good idea to turn it off just to be sure. However, a fast shutter speed causing blur is highly unlikely. If you have used a lens where the stabilization causes issues when the shutter speed is high, please let me know which one. I'd be interested to look into it.
Try turning VR/OSS off at speeds over 500 and see what results you get. There can be a conflict of stabilisation movement frequency and the shutter opening and closing.. It may not show on every shot. Of course you lose a stabilised image in the VF and for erraticly moving subjects that can be a high price to pay.
The inverse rule does that apply for both full frame and crop sensor or do you factor in the 1.5 crop on a Sony .
You multiply using the crop factor eg a 500mm turns into 1/750s on a non full frame camera ALTHOUGH camera or lens stabilisation can reduce that even at -5 shutter steps; ie I can shoot still objects sharply with a crop 500mm lens at 1/100s.
good camera. great photos
There is technique. But there is now substitute for shear dumb luck. Last week I got 5 out of 7 sharp shots at 280mm iso 10 000 and 1/20! … handheld out of a game drive vehicle in the dark just about. I’m stoked! I know I have good technique and the R7 with the EF 100-400L ii is is great with stabilisation but still - this was luck!
Basically go gym and get big and practice with the lens in the field 😤
I just got back from Yellowstone too! I'm practicing with my 200-600mm but I lean too heavily on the shutter speed to compensate, so I ended up shooting bears in the early morning light at 1000-1200 and there is so much noise. For slow moving subjects, what shutter speed would you use?
You can have great results at 1/125s with stabilizationON.
Great tips, 🍻
You are a Savior !
thank you!
I regularly handhold my Canon 500 f4 II with 2x, adapter, and R5. I use a BlackRapid strap across the shoulder, attached to the tripod mount, when I'm not actively shooting.
Blackrapid also has a strap, they even have one that attaches to the front straps of your backpack.
WHAT A GIRL WOW
The launcher hands
Great tips.. thanks for the video.. you have a sub from me!👍🏻
New camera : Cleep Pro - The Smallest 4K Wearable Camera 👌
I don't consider a Sony 200-600mm to be very large or heavy. The friends I have who use this lens all do it handheld, while these same people always use a tripod when they use truly big lenses. Among wildlife photographers, the 200-600mm is generally considered to be a smaller, handholdable lens, not at all in the same category as 600mm f4 lenses or 800mm f5.6 lenses.
I'm not sure, but referring to yourself as a "Chick" is not doing you any favours. In the UK, that term is used in the pejorative sense, like "babe" and trivialises your advice somewhat.