So frustrating that an $800 truck has so many issues....but man once you had it out that engine really ripped! Savages will always have a special place in my heart.
Another trick for rounded screw heads that works better than rubber bands is to use a little aluminium kitchen foil which seems to fill the gaps enough to often extract the problem screw.
This thing rips! I agree! Nothing like a good running nitro engine. The sound and smell! Knowing everyone is stopping what they are doing to check out your rig! Awesome feeling! Can't wait to see the gasoline one rip it
Great tip for removing stripped screws is to use a torx bit, try different sizes until you find one that fits. Trust me it works really well especially on the smaller sized screws
Exactly what I do and it works a treat, I had so many rounded screws i was actually thinking about giving up rc cars until I found a vid on using torx bits
Those eco boost servos are fantastic for the price. They can be noisy at times. What that means is the end points need to be adjusted slightly so its at dead center neutral. It's trying to adjust itself and it has to fight linkage slack to get there.
Kev, to get the stripped screws out I just cut a groove in the screw with a dremel and cutting disc. Then unscrew with a slotted screwdriver. Works every time. Loving your work dude
I had about 3 or 4 savages. 2 were nitro and 2 were brushless. They are a brilliant truck once you iron out all the bugs. My flux had the nitro diffs and they popped very quickly.
The savage platform is by far my favorite truck. I have numerous of nitro and electric. At one time I had the biggest and fastest savages in my general area.
Yea in today's day in age u can't be having this many issues with an rc this expensive I mean look at some of the bangood nitros he's reviewed and they have very few problems if any otb.Espectially when ur trying to come back come on HPI we all wanna see u stick around don't mess it up
I've been bashing on mine for almost 16 yrs. Yes spent a thou or so to make bullet proof. I used a couple of engines and carb rebuilds but it's the best nitro monster truck and lots of fun. Stainless steel brake kit a must it might come with one nut mine didn't it was a 4.6 x and I up graded it to make an xl. There are kits that make it low like a truggy for better handling but with Integy piggyback shocks 80 to 100 wt oil and wide tires it will handle like a Kraton at high speeds. Sometimes I think it handles better. So much fun once they are really heavy duty.
It makes me glad to hear Kevin actually say that nitro rc is more fun than electric when it functions. I fully agree to that! But i have a lot of these old savages,and many other hpi products ,and clearly the quality isn’t that good anymore. Have never experienced that poor quality on screws,or the diff problems.
Same here, I have a few Savage's (too many😂) from the Sav21 to the flux hp and most inbetween, including a twinzilla. I have never had a ring gear go on a diff only the small drive/pinion gear and screws have always been pretty good.The clutch bell and spur have gone but only after a big impact or bearing failure and both my brother and me give our savage's a hammering😂😂🏴
Random question I didn't realise my air filter fell of my nitro savage when in use I think its sucked up dirt now won't start what do I need to replace or clean to get it going again ?
Hello there. I would totally strip the engine in its hole, after a cleaning of the outside of it of course. After that, i would inspect all internal parts for damage in some way. Especially the cylinder and piston. If there is scratches, you need to buy a new set. But the crank can also be damaged. That is the first part that can be affected to dirt. There is no other way than to dissasemble it before anything else anyway, to be sure of anything. Dont be afraid to open it, its not difficult. Always have the instruction manual to be sure you assemble it the right way. Good luck! @@gtpowergeorgetennent3786
I ❤️ my Savage X 4.6 😁 Mines currently in prices being cleaned and once it's back together. It'll be getting a thrashing. I've also changed the rear diff to the steel version like you showed and I've never had any problems since. I've changed all the bearings in the engine but the piston and sleeve are out of tolerance.
I have the savage 4.6 and I freaking love it. I've had it for years and it takes a lot of punishment. Sorted out some problem areas with upgrades and it just rips. I have the reverse module for it I want to try installing. The engine makes great power but can be a bit temperamental with tuning. I think the proper glow plug and fuel quality are important.
I had a blast with my Savage back in the day, but I hated wrenching on it, something about the TVP setup that pissed me off, haha. I did get my buddies Savage Flux XL and fixed it for him, but those damn TVP's still drove me crazy. Great truck when it's running correctly!
Hey Kevin just a heads up to get those screws out all you have to do is drill out the head strait ass possible breaking the heads off then you can take the cover off and use vice grips to take the remaining screws out. 😊
Personally I like heating up the screws with a high wattage soldering iron where the tip fits inside the hex. That seems to work nearly every time for me. Love your videos!
PSA for anyone looking to buy hpi have fixed the gearboxes, me and others who have purchased find they work out the box, however, you need to upgrade the steering servos immediately they absolutely don't last, also be sure to locktite the grubscrew that holds 3rd gear to the gearbox pin, apart from that mines been fantastic!
You are very right about nitro and even petrol being more fun than electric haha! I’ve been playing with my Losi 5ive T 2.0 more than my Kraton 6S and TLR Typhon!
I have a Kyosho mp9 tki4 and I have to agree, the sound and smell make it fun! I have never had an issue with my nitro, yes it takes a little bit longer to get going compared to an electric but that is not an ‘issue’ it’s just park or the package, when people run out of batteries they have to go home, we just fill up the tank again 😂
heck yeah, it made me very happy to see the resurrection. The new parts are fully compatible with the previous generation, always loved that about hpi and the savage line. your taken care of.
If you have a Dremel with a cutting disc, cut a groove on the head of the bolt and use a large flat headed screwdriver to unscrew the bolt. Works 99.9% of the time.
I have an HPI savage I converted to electric with castle motor and mamba 8s. It has an alza 1/6 aluminum frame. Had to make my own drive lines cuz alza doesn’t have anymore. I had it as nitro for years and loved it! Your always going to upgrade if your into RC’s. If you don’t…. You should lol
When I get stuck stripped bolts if I can I take a dremel with a cutting wheel and cut a slot to turn them out with a flat head screw driver. Works well if you have space to do it.
I had the first Savage xl and sold it I’m definitely going to get me the new one and thank you for the info also. I just picked up a HPI RS4 super nitro that I need to rebuild . You rock Kevin love your channel 👍🏽🤙🏽🤩❤️
So, what's the best nitro to start out with, If you've never had one? I wanna get into nitro but never have. I was worried about keeping it running and no knowledge of them as well. I was impressed seeing, how you was able to bring an old nitro back to life on another one of your videos. I love the Save, just not the body myself as well. My biggest thing is getting parts for H.P.I. Around here, no one use them. my local hobby shop tells me that parts are hard to get. I do not know if this is true. Nitro fuel has gone up a bunch around here as well. Great video Kev, always enjoy watching the things you do with this hobby.
For diff with stripped screw heads: Use a 3.5- 4mm drill bit to CAREFULLY drill off ONLY the head of the screw. Go slow and be careful. Once all 4 heads are off, gently separate the crown gear from the case. There will a little amount of screw exposed. If case is plastic, grab exposed screw with a good pair of vise grips and extract. If metal case, you can heat the screw to make it easier to extract.
Totally agreed!! Glad you sorted it out. Used to love my LST2-upgraded Raminator - LRP 32 powered. Need to make it LOOK like a more-realistic MT - not 'some generic toy' - that body is really fugly!! (sorry). Al.
I've been through that most screws are soft and strip. I just drill the heads remove the gear then take a pair of small vicegrips . Lock them on and twist out the screws. It does work.... Sean pendragon.
Hey kev easy method to remove stripped screw heads is to get a dremel with a cutting bit and cut a straight line across the screw, so you can get it out with a flat head driver. Mark Santa Maria has a video showing how to do it. Great vid as always
To me that sounds better or more easy or both then say to tap it out ? Iv never had to do it ( thank god ) but I know my day is comeing lol ! I never use a electric drill for anything RC mybie because im just to scared of the power. Were metal meets nylon even with low torque it could strip for sure right ?
Nice done with upgrades and make your Savage XL run again. I have had problems more than ones with stripped hex screw holes. I use a dremel tool and cut a groove and use a flat screw driver to get the screw out. It gets little damage with the groove outsid the screw on the material outside but that´s the only solution I´ve come up with since I don´t own a weld.
awesome vid kev, love the vids. i also went to a hobby shop today and saw all my dream rc cars, like some 1/8 or 1/6/5 scale cars. they look like a blast to drive, hopefully i will get one in a couple years. also they had a raminator!!! that things a beaassttt
Great video nitros are fun but can be fussy and definitely more messy than battery powered RC's,and the fact now you pay alot for some of these car's and there are assembly problems from the factory where you basically have to go through the car and checking every nut and screw,so your first one goes well is tiresome. To bad they don't have the option to buy a kit so as you build you can check everything and locktite what is needed.
Love the channel and all the education I learn from you about RC. Hopefully soon I can purchase me and my boy one and join the RC family have some ripen time together. Great video Kevin.
Another nice video Kev. I remember in one of your old videos you drove the redfin Dual Brushless motor kyosho fo-xx. Have thought about doing such build?
Good to see a legend back. I never got one but I drove one and jumped it etc and I remember it being a very easy truck to do tricks with, it handled so well. I hope they improve it, if so, I will definitely get one. You should clean up your gasser and do an episode on it. I agree, nitro was way more fun.
Hello MadmanJnr:) Tomorrow it is christmas calender sale on the 1/10 of this rc, but the newest version and elec rc not nitro. 300 dollar. should i by it? XS Flux VGJR Sry my bad english
The servo should be assembled and turned on to make sure it’s at zero also the servo saver or spacer must be installed but not tightened to much. When the servo is centered then install linkages lightly.
nitro is the best, Ive had good luck with my slayer pro, 3rd engine now, 1st one was great 2nd blew crankshaft hopefully this 3rd will be a good one, got pretty good at tuning it, use temp gauge helped. kevin channel is the best one on youtube, greetings from northern michigan
Glad you got it sorted Kev, Next time you have it out can you get some more video of it changing in to all 3 gears please :) Maybe on a speed run on tarmac? Have you had to tweak them much since fixing / resetting them?
If you think about it, most rc have issues. The 2wd slash is too light on the front, but adjusting the spring tension only puts more weight on the rear.
I think you’re wrong about electric rc cars not having souls. My slash 4x4 Ultimate seems to have the soul of the devil that is intent on ripping itself apart. Took reinforced metal spur and pinion (which even needed an adapter sleeve) gears, metal wheel hexes, new pro-line badlands tires and an esc fan (with the possibility of a motor heat sink and fan later) for it to survive more than two runs without replacing anything. It’s such a fun car, but MAN is it a lot of work (and money) to maintain. Never had an issue with my 2wd brushed slash though except a burnt out motor and slick rear tires, which all needed replacing. That really goes to show the longevity of that car!
Kev, you really said it about nitro. Truly, there is just a special feeling that comes with the noise, smoke, smell, and attitude these engines have that electric cannot and will never have. So much personality, so much personality... It's the one thing that makes me choose which I'd rather have even if one might be faster and better in some aspects. That being said if only it wasn't so cold out, I'd have my own nitro RC car broken in and running like wild. Your videos at least satisfy that desire quite a bit!
Yesssss im glad i stayed up until 5:30 am in usa. Youre a true inspiration kev. You are humble yet very aware of what you are. Not afraid to show off your success in a very entertaining and non-douchey manner. Anybody that says anything negative about you is just jealous. Including Djmedic lol
holy smokes can you drive that rig! Beautiful to watch, its like your one with that machine and the smile it put on your face, that there is what it is about. Nitro nirvana, once you get a taste its really is special. great episode. Im thinking of getting then new xl, agree wish it was a kit. There is so much going on with these its truely is a amazing to get it to work right. you really do need to set it up. Much more mechanical than an electric thats for sure, clutchs, gears, more gears, breaks... pipe, fuel, engine, roto start. Amazing to think you can get it all in harmony, the savage is sort of the only one you can do that with and bash the crap out of it.
Man I remember putting a 3 speed in my old savage X. The forever job. I finally got it right and usually lost control when it hit 3rd. It was really nutty.
Stripped screw heads: I have one of those ratchet screwdriver kits with a heap of different drive bits in it. I get a random security screw drive bit and jam it into the hex hole. It usuallyu gets them out.
Ready to runs are always put together very poorly, out of every rtr car I have purchased not a single one out of 20+ cars was put together properly. People always joke that rtr does not mean ready to run that it actually means ready to rebuild, but it is sadly so true.
Agree with everything you've said about nitro Kev. I've been running them for 15 years, they are more exciting than electric and they are not that difficult to tune, it just takes a bit of persistence and once they are tuned correctly you will not have to mess with them. It really helps if you use a temp gun, I run all my nitros at 230 degrees F (on 25% nitro) which is the sweet spot between performance and longevity. Running them hotter might give you marginal gains in performance but that comes at a cost of reduced engine life. Btw the revo 3.3 trucks make awesome bashers with a few upgrades. They are more agile than savages and they are lighter and fly better 😄👍
Great video, I like that you give your honest opinion good or bad!!!! I've been running HPI savage for years and back then you could get the kit version.! To date myself, my newest savage is a SS.25 kit.😁 and it's a beast!!!!!
You need a set of sacrificial hex screwdrivers,heat the screwdriver tip up ,hold on screw for a min,then they open without damage ,been doing it years,never chewed a screw and heat goes directly where needed
Funny... I came inside mildy defeated after fighting out cv stubs in some bearings with expensive aluminum knuckles sandwiched between..... Basically liquified them over hours with an oxy-acetylene torch when a press, puller or rotohammer couldn't do it. Ran out of o2 halfway through the second one. Wore myself out just beating the thing to death with a sledge until it dropped. Smooshed the heck out of the stub, so I won't be able to rebuild OE axles sadly. Anyways. Torch. Burning grease and then? ... ... I realize I broke off both small wheel speed sensor screws in the aluminum knuckles and now get to fix that mess of drilling steel in aluminum -.- welder was definitely next thought... But don't have a tig and they're a bit small for my mig/stick... Yuck. Here's a silly tip Kevin that occasionally helps with stripped hexes- tap in a slightly oversized torx bit, use a hammer style impact screwdriver to remove them as well
I just finished my 4th tank. After my 3rd it wouldn’t roll backwards and upon inspection I also had my screws backed out. Also my spur was so tight it had a curve in it. Hopefully tomorrow I can open her up I haven’t hit 2nd gear yet.
I got one of those jx eco boosts and they really are amazing like you said it is a bit noisy but it is correcting itself correcting itself by like less than a milimeter
Kind of surprised you fried the sintered gear in that. I never had issues with the sintered BP gears in my nitro savage even after I put a few gallons through it. Then again, it was the older stuff from a decade ago, maybe they changed their manufacturing process or place that makes the gears.
So u take overpriced bad rc, put double the price of upgrated parts on it and call it best ...
🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓
best for me, you can choose what is best for you
@ROFLCOPTERLOL no, savage fanboy, not hpi fanboy big difference
To be fair, that's basically how the hobby works. Almost everything is overpriced crap that needs modding. Lol
@ROFLCOPTERLOL also never denied it so nothing to admit
I watch this channel religiously and im never dissappointed. Thanks kev, you help keep this hobby alive for me.
So frustrating that an $800 truck has so many issues....but man once you had it out that engine really ripped! Savages will always have a special place in my heart.
They should sell these things as kits, like they do with the Baja 5b at the moment.
pops had one growing up it was the older one obviously but man that thing ripped and it was double shocks took jumps like no other 😂
For stripped screws on my RC cars I use a good quality torx bit that is slightly larger and tap it in. Works 100% of the time.
Great work! You upgrade the whole r/c car hobby and show the interesting side of it. Thanks for sharing your hard and consistent work with us.
Another trick for rounded screw heads that works better than rubber bands is to use a little aluminium kitchen foil which seems to fill the gaps enough to often extract the problem screw.
This thing rips! I agree! Nothing like a good running nitro engine. The sound and smell! Knowing everyone is stopping what they are doing to check out your rig! Awesome feeling! Can't wait to see the gasoline one rip it
Great tip for removing stripped screws is to use a torx bit, try different sizes until you find one that fits. Trust me it works really well especially on the smaller sized screws
Exactly what I do and it works a treat, I had so many rounded screws i was actually thinking about giving up rc cars until I found a vid on using torx bits
@@sepp1991I thought it was common sense myself
I loved my savage x I had about 10 years ago. It had loads of downfalls but was always a blast to thrash around.
Those eco boost servos are fantastic for the price. They can be noisy at times. What that means is the end points need to be adjusted slightly so its at dead center neutral. It's trying to adjust itself and it has to fight linkage slack to get there.
I can’t believe he’s this deep in the hobby and doesn’t know how to adjust servo end points.
@@ttv8ra23 Dave saying that to me made me just learn. I never had that problem on mine but thats good to know.
That Savage sure put a big smile on your face. That is what this hobby is all about.
Kev, to get the stripped screws out I just cut a groove in the screw with a dremel and cutting disc. Then unscrew with a slotted screwdriver. Works every time. Loving your work dude
I had about 3 or 4 savages. 2 were nitro and 2 were brushless. They are a brilliant truck once you iron out all the bugs. My flux had the nitro diffs and they popped very quickly.
The savage platform is by far my favorite truck. I have numerous of nitro and electric. At one time I had the biggest and fastest savages in my general area.
Such appalling build quality. Are they made in Birmingham by British Leyland?
It didn't rust to pieces just from sitting on the shelf. It's debatable if it was made by BL. LOL
I had one. A 4.6 bb
😂 yeah not great from HPI!
Yea in today's day in age u can't be having this many issues with an rc this expensive I mean look at some of the bangood nitros he's reviewed and they have very few problems if any otb.Espectially when ur trying to come back come on HPI we all wanna see u stick around don't mess it up
🤣😂🤣
I've been bashing on mine for almost 16 yrs. Yes spent a thou or so to make bullet proof. I used a couple of engines and carb rebuilds but it's the best nitro monster truck and lots of fun. Stainless steel brake kit a must it might come with one nut mine didn't it was a 4.6 x and I up graded it to make an xl. There are kits that make it low like a truggy for better handling but with Integy piggyback shocks 80 to 100 wt oil and wide tires it will handle like a Kraton at high speeds. Sometimes I think it handles better. So much fun once they are really heavy duty.
It makes me glad to hear Kevin actually say that nitro rc is more fun than electric when it functions. I fully agree to that! But i have a lot of these old savages,and many other hpi products ,and clearly the quality isn’t that good anymore. Have never experienced that poor quality on screws,or the diff problems.
Same here, I have a few Savage's (too many😂) from the Sav21 to the flux hp and most inbetween, including a twinzilla. I have never had a ring gear go on a diff only the small drive/pinion gear and screws have always been pretty good.The clutch bell and spur have gone but only after a big impact or bearing failure and both my brother and me give our savage's a hammering😂😂🏴
I think they’ve actually been redefined haven’t had problems with my 4.6 diffs despite a full beating regularly.
Random question I didn't realise my air filter fell of my nitro savage when in use I think its sucked up dirt now won't start what do I need to replace or clean to get it going again ?
Hello there. I would totally strip the engine in its hole, after a cleaning of the outside of it of course. After that, i would inspect all internal parts for damage in some way. Especially the cylinder and piston. If there is scratches, you need to buy a new set. But the crank can also be damaged. That is the first part that can be affected to dirt. There is no other way than to dissasemble it before anything else anyway, to be sure of anything. Dont be afraid to open it, its not difficult. Always have the instruction manual to be sure you assemble it the right way. Good luck! @@gtpowergeorgetennent3786
I ❤️ my Savage X 4.6 😁 Mines currently in prices being cleaned and once it's back together. It'll be getting a thrashing.
I've also changed the rear diff to the steel version like you showed and I've never had any problems since. I've changed all the bearings in the engine but the piston and sleeve are out of tolerance.
You have to love how persistent Kevin is when he is passionate about something.
I have the savage 4.6 and I freaking love it. I've had it for years and it takes a lot of punishment. Sorted out some problem areas with upgrades and it just rips. I have the reverse module for it I want to try installing. The engine makes great power but can be a bit temperamental with tuning. I think the proper glow plug and fuel quality are important.
I had a blast with my Savage back in the day, but I hated wrenching on it, something about the TVP setup that pissed me off, haha. I did get my buddies Savage Flux XL and fixed it for him, but those damn TVP's still drove me crazy. Great truck when it's running correctly!
Hey Kevin just a heads up to get those screws out all you have to do is drill out the head strait ass possible breaking the heads off then you can take the cover off and use vice grips to take the remaining screws out. 😊
Personally I like heating up the screws with a high wattage soldering iron where the tip fits inside the hex. That seems to work nearly every time for me. Love your videos!
I do the same, works great! 👍🏼
PSA for anyone looking to buy hpi have fixed the gearboxes, me and others who have purchased find they work out the box, however, you need to upgrade the steering servos immediately they absolutely don't last, also be sure to locktite the grubscrew that holds 3rd gear to the gearbox pin, apart from that mines been fantastic!
Your best bet if buying one of these is to just tear it completely apart right out of the box, and do all of this as soon as you get it!!!
You are very right about nitro and even petrol being more fun than electric haha! I’ve been playing with my Losi 5ive T 2.0 more than my Kraton 6S and TLR Typhon!
I have a Kyosho mp9 tki4 and I have to agree, the sound and smell make it fun!
I have never had an issue with my nitro, yes it takes a little bit longer to get going compared to an electric but that is not an ‘issue’ it’s just park or the package, when people run out of batteries they have to go home, we just fill up the tank again 😂
The HPI Savage has always been my favorite truck since the very beginning! Nice to see them back and producing trucks 👊
heck yeah, it made me very happy to see the resurrection. The new parts are fully compatible with the previous generation, always loved that about hpi and the savage line. your taken care of.
If you have a Dremel with a cutting disc, cut a groove on the head of the bolt and use a large flat headed screwdriver to unscrew the bolt. Works 99.9% of the time.
Kev, when screws strip, get the equivalent star bit. Works REALLY well for me.
Agreed! I can never part ways from my Nitro even though they do take some work to startup! Electric is flip the switches and run!!
I have an HPI savage I converted to electric with castle motor and mamba 8s. It has an alza 1/6 aluminum frame. Had to make my own drive lines cuz alza doesn’t have anymore. I had it as nitro for years and loved it! Your always going to upgrade if your into RC’s. If you don’t…. You should lol
When I get stuck stripped bolts if I can I take a dremel with a cutting wheel and cut a slot to turn them out with a flat head screw driver. Works well if you have space to do it.
That was my experience with the savage gt6 nitro…repairing anything was a nightmare because screws would round off….and it needed a lot of repairing.
I love how it's snappy in low gear but has the speed. We had rc10 gt cars back in the day and they didn't have that low end snap
Mate that was a great fix! That 3 speed tranny fix that you did was mind-blowing!🤯 Great job!👍
I had the first Savage xl and sold it I’m definitely going to get me the new one and thank you for the info also. I just picked up a HPI RS4 super nitro that I need to rebuild . You rock Kevin love your channel 👍🏽🤙🏽🤩❤️
So, what's the best nitro to start out with, If you've never had one? I wanna get into nitro but never have. I was worried about keeping it running and no knowledge of them as well. I was impressed seeing, how you was able to bring an old nitro back to life on another one of your videos. I love the Save, just not the body myself as well. My biggest thing is getting parts for H.P.I. Around here, no one use them. my local hobby shop tells me that parts are hard to get. I do not know if this is true. Nitro fuel has gone up a bunch around here as well. Great video Kev, always enjoy watching the things you do with this hobby.
I just bought the vorza 4.6 and this is definitely going to be my next nitro
For diff with stripped screw heads:
Use a 3.5- 4mm drill bit to CAREFULLY drill off ONLY the head of the screw.
Go slow and be careful.
Once all 4 heads are off, gently separate the crown gear from the case. There will a little amount of screw exposed.
If case is plastic, grab exposed screw with a good pair of vise grips and extract.
If metal case, you can heat the screw to make it easier to extract.
Or use a dermal and a flat head screwdriver if it’s not impossible to get to
Totally agreed!!
Glad you sorted it out.
Used to love my LST2-upgraded Raminator - LRP 32 powered.
Need to make it LOOK like a more-realistic MT - not 'some generic toy' - that body is really fugly!! (sorry).
Al.
The 3 speed transmission was very cool on this..
I can smell the nitro
I've been through that most screws are soft and strip. I just drill the heads remove the gear then take a pair of small vicegrips . Lock them on and twist out the screws. It does work.... Sean pendragon.
Hey kev easy method to remove stripped screw heads is to get a dremel with a cutting bit and cut a straight line across the screw, so you can get it out with a flat head driver. Mark Santa Maria has a video showing how to do it. Great vid as always
I was gonna recommend this as well but figured I should look through the comments because certainly someone probably already suggested it lol.
To me that sounds better or more easy or both then say to tap it out ? Iv never had to do it ( thank god ) but I know my day is comeing lol ! I never use a electric drill for anything RC mybie because im just to scared of the power. Were metal meets nylon even with low torque it could strip for sure right ?
Nice done with upgrades and make your Savage XL run again. I have had problems more than ones with stripped hex screw holes. I use a dremel tool and cut a groove and use a flat screw driver to get the screw out. It gets little damage with the groove outsid the screw on the material outside but that´s the only solution I´ve come up with since I don´t own a weld.
That petrol hpi is cool , another cool nitro if you can find is the thunder tiger with the. 70 engine . Loving the nitro content 👌
awesome vid kev, love the vids. i also went to a hobby shop today and saw all my dream rc cars, like some 1/8 or 1/6/5 scale cars. they look like a blast to drive, hopefully i will get one in a couple years. also they had a raminator!!! that things a beaassttt
Just ordered a few parts for my T Maxx love working on these things
Great video nitros are fun but can be fussy and definitely more messy than battery powered RC's,and the fact now you pay alot for some of these car's and there are assembly problems from the factory where you basically have to go through the car and checking every nut and screw,so your first one goes well is tiresome. To bad they don't have the option to buy a kit so as you build you can check everything and locktite what is needed.
Idk what it is about this man not even into rc cars but love the videos
Yeah same experience.
Bought mine new 10+ years ago and used it 3 times before all the same problems appeared.
Now it's a shed ornament.
Love the channel and all the education I learn from you about RC. Hopefully soon I can purchase me and my boy one and join the RC family have some ripen time together. Great video Kevin.
His repairing videos are so helpful, short n interesting
Glad you like them!
for the stripped diff screws, just dremel a slot in the screw and use a flat blade screw driver to get it out.
Another nice video Kev. I remember in one of your old videos you drove the redfin Dual Brushless motor kyosho fo-xx. Have thought about doing such build?
Cant wait for the 2stroke engine
I want to see more of that 😀
Awesome that you sorted everything out! Now it rips 👍💪
I just bought my first proper rc car al by you it looks a realy fun hobby
great video - i really enjoy the ones where there's a bit of wrenching, a bit of bashing, a few zipties, more bashing, then "it's getting it now"! 😅
@2:49 I dig the Jazz Manouche!
Good to see a legend back. I never got one but I drove one and jumped it etc and I remember it being a very easy truck to do tricks with, it handled so well. I hope they improve it, if so, I will definitely get one. You should clean up your gasser and do an episode on it. I agree, nitro was way more fun.
There is something special about the sound of a Savage! I really need to get my 4.6 out more!
Hello MadmanJnr:) Tomorrow it is christmas calender sale on the 1/10 of this rc, but the newest version and elec rc not nitro. 300 dollar. should i by it? XS Flux VGJR
Sry my bad english
The servo should be assembled and turned on to make sure it’s at zero also the servo saver or spacer must be installed but not tightened to much. When the servo is centered then install linkages lightly.
nitro is the best, Ive had good luck with my slayer pro, 3rd engine now, 1st one was great 2nd blew crankshaft hopefully this 3rd will be a good one, got pretty good at tuning it, use temp gauge helped. kevin channel is the best one on youtube, greetings from northern michigan
Have you done any reviews on the HPI bullet nitro cars? Im thinking of buying a nitro car but I dont know witch to go for. Great videos thank you
2:03 I usually hammer in a torx bit that is just barely too big to fit. I think a T9 works best for the 2mm hex driven screws.
Glad you got it sorted Kev, Next time you have it out can you get some more video of it changing in to all 3 gears please :) Maybe on a speed run on tarmac?
Have you had to tweak them much since fixing / resetting them?
If you think about it, most rc have issues. The 2wd slash is too light on the front, but adjusting the spring tension only puts more weight on the rear.
My 5.9 Savage was last build over 10 years ago, and was a kit. Maybe you meant the upgrades as kit? Thanks for all you do!
I think you’re wrong about electric rc cars not having souls. My slash 4x4 Ultimate seems to have the soul of the devil that is intent on ripping itself apart. Took reinforced metal spur and pinion (which even needed an adapter sleeve) gears, metal wheel hexes, new pro-line badlands tires and an esc fan (with the possibility of a motor heat sink and fan later) for it to survive more than two runs without replacing anything. It’s such a fun car, but MAN is it a lot of work (and money) to maintain.
Never had an issue with my 2wd brushed slash though except a burnt out motor and slick rear tires, which all needed replacing. That really goes to show the longevity of that car!
Kev, you really said it about nitro. Truly, there is just a special feeling that comes with the noise, smoke, smell, and attitude these engines have that electric cannot and will never have. So much personality, so much personality... It's the one thing that makes me choose which I'd rather have even if one might be faster and better in some aspects.
That being said if only it wasn't so cold out, I'd have my own nitro RC car broken in and running like wild. Your videos at least satisfy that desire quite a bit!
Yesssss im glad i stayed up until 5:30 am in usa. Youre a true inspiration kev. You are humble yet very aware of what you are. Not afraid to show off your success in a very entertaining and non-douchey manner. Anybody that says anything negative about you is just jealous. Including Djmedic lol
holy smokes can you drive that rig! Beautiful to watch, its like your one with that machine and the smile it put on your face, that there is what it is about. Nitro nirvana, once you get a taste its really is special. great episode. Im thinking of getting then new xl, agree wish it was a kit. There is so much going on with these its truely is a amazing to get it to work right. you really do need to set it up. Much more mechanical than an electric thats for sure, clutchs, gears, more gears, breaks... pipe, fuel, engine, roto start. Amazing to think you can get it all in harmony, the savage is sort of the only one you can do that with and bash the crap out of it.
Man I remember putting a 3 speed in my old savage X. The forever job. I finally got it right and usually lost control when it hit 3rd. It was really nutty.
I usually grind slots in my hex screws for flat head use as a last resort. Has never failled! Dual bit screws should exist!
Kev talbot you should do a HPI savage 4.6 vs traxxas revo 3.3 video. Compare the tow cars durability wise, speed and fun factor😁😎
Man, Kevin really knows what he's doing! great vid!
Stripped screw heads: I have one of those ratchet screwdriver kits with a heap of different drive bits in it. I get a random security screw drive bit and jam it into the hex hole. It usuallyu gets them out.
Absolutely love it . Tbh im a hpi fan too
Ready to runs are always put together very poorly, out of every rtr car I have purchased not a single one out of 20+ cars was put together properly. People always joke that rtr does not mean ready to run that it actually means ready to rebuild, but it is sadly so true.
Agree with everything you've said about nitro Kev. I've been running them for 15 years, they are more exciting than electric and they are not that difficult to tune, it just takes a bit of persistence and once they are tuned correctly you will not have to mess with them. It really helps if you use a temp gun, I run all my nitros at 230 degrees F (on 25% nitro) which is the sweet spot between performance and longevity. Running them hotter might give you marginal gains in performance but that comes at a cost of reduced engine life.
Btw the revo 3.3 trucks make awesome bashers with a few upgrades. They are more agile than savages and they are lighter and fly better 😄👍
That Savage Octane motor looks enormous! Never even heard of that car, cant wait to see it rip.
That's cuz it's a 2 stroke gasoline engine not a nitro powered big difference
They handiest RC mechanic in the world brings out the welder lol😂
Good job!
I've always loved intros. Awesome truck.
Great video, I like that you give your honest opinion good or bad!!!! I've been running HPI savage for years and back then you could get the kit version.! To date myself, my newest savage is a SS.25 kit.😁 and it's a beast!!!!!
Spot on with Nitro, when it’s running good is so much fun!! Always love watching your videos!
I had an hpi trophy truggy 4.6 and upgraded certain parts and it was an awesome piece of kit.
To get off some stripped out screws, you can super glue a screw driver to the screw and undo it. It works most of the time for me
You need a set of sacrificial hex screwdrivers,heat the screwdriver tip up ,hold on screw for a min,then they open without damage ,been doing it years,never chewed a screw and heat goes directly where needed
Been loving the nitro and gas content lately
Funny... I came inside mildy defeated after fighting out cv stubs in some bearings with expensive aluminum knuckles sandwiched between..... Basically liquified them over hours with an oxy-acetylene torch when a press, puller or rotohammer couldn't do it. Ran out of o2 halfway through the second one. Wore myself out just beating the thing to death with a sledge until it dropped. Smooshed the heck out of the stub, so I won't be able to rebuild OE axles sadly.
Anyways. Torch. Burning grease and then? ... ... I realize I broke off both small wheel speed sensor screws in the aluminum knuckles and now get to fix that mess of drilling steel in aluminum -.- welder was definitely next thought... But don't have a tig and they're a bit small for my mig/stick... Yuck.
Here's a silly tip Kevin that occasionally helps with stripped hexes- tap in a slightly oversized torx bit, use a hammer style impact screwdriver to remove them as well
I just finished my 4th tank. After my 3rd it wouldn’t roll backwards and upon inspection I also had my screws backed out. Also my spur was so tight it had a curve in it. Hopefully tomorrow I can open her up I haven’t hit 2nd gear yet.
Reverse or left hand drill bit’s work nice
Although not really a basher my vote is for the Slayer Pro. Quick and fun. It's ten years old and still good design I think
You make some of the best RC videos Kevin Talbot awesome job bro from the State of California
Just saw a video of a 1/5 scale petrol rally cars. They looked absolutely epic 😄Maybe it's time to start save some money.
Running well now Kev, I hate it when the head strips on screw heads.
I got one of those jx eco boosts and they really are amazing like you said it is a bit noisy but it is correcting itself correcting itself by like less than a milimeter
Kind of surprised you fried the sintered gear in that. I never had issues with the sintered BP gears in my nitro savage even after I put a few gallons through it. Then again, it was the older stuff from a decade ago, maybe they changed their manufacturing process or place that makes the gears.
I'm shure somebody's suggested this before but you should build a battle bot think that would be sweet love the videos keep up the good work