Iv done that before with a shop vac. It looked like new. Put in the passenger seat of my porsche. Drove a bit and it smelled funny. Look inside and see unspeakable things. Right back where it came from.
@@vaderdudenator1 at 5:55 you can see the crack on the top of the flywheel on the left top side of the keyway. It may not have been all the way down the side, but it was cracked.
Resurrected mine 3x so far. Valve adjustment is KEY and paying attention to the pushrod keeper as well as the valve collar. Any of these go out you get same symptom. Cranks then bounces off the decompression lever. Sure yours spun the flywheel but it’s probably fixable.
Those things are notorious for needing the valves adjusted often. It can make them hard to crank over like that and put more stress of the flywheel. Along with other issues. I picked up a free one with broken gears on the flywheel due to the valve adjustment making it hard to crank.
One thing real quick when it comes to welding a crack in cast iron, drill a hole at the end of whatever crack you're welding that way you stop it from continuing. My father learned this the hard way when he had to weld a cracked engine block back together.
I have a Scotts which is a cheaper version of JD. Mine has a 25HP motor and a 46" deck, but besides being orange, I recognized the front axle casting and many other things. My solenoid isXX was at the back. I bypassed all their BS, and put a direct wire from my OWN quality switch, put a PROPER solenoid right next to the starter, and put a winch connector on my airplane battery so it is like 10 inches from battery to solenoid, and no more problems. I also can remove the battery when not in use by just unsnapping the lead, and put the battery in the shop; I also did this with my vehicles, a couple of FAT battery cables to a winch connector, so if I need to jump, it is snap battery on, start, remove, no cables needed.
I got one of those about four years ago, free.99... I ripped off the deck and used it to pull my deck off the side of my house... It still runs, I did nothing. I use it to drink and drive(reminiscing). My kids use it to bring beer to me when I'm over the neighbors; he never has enough.
Ayo you know I would've been there in 15 mins to load that shit up. Another fascinating watch though, reminds me of the time we had to fix the flywheel on the old Craftsman push mower :') Good times
To be clear the key is not the thing that keeps the system in time it's the torque of the bolt that holds down the flywheel. I made that mistake and broke 4 keys before I remembered to use a torque wrench on the bolt that holds it all down.
That D110 is bad but I'm not sure it's the worst. Find yourself an SST15, SST16 or SST18. The SST in the name stood for Spin Steer Technology, which was marketing BS for a hydrostatic transmission and free-castering front wheels. Basically a zero turn radius mower with a steering wheel instead of levers. Lots of slop in the steering makes it nearly impossible to drive in a straight line. OK for yards with lots of curved edges, but utterly infuriating for large rectangular yards. If you get on or off the go pedals too fast it will snap your neck, and rotating on a rear wheel -- its whole purpose, remember -- will tear up your lawn. They were only sold for a few years, at eye-watering prices. Luckily I got mine lightly used for a song. So far it has only needed a few cheap parts but when the transmission dies, it's scrap.
My elderly neighbor has one of these, and I maintain it for her. One day it wouldn't turn over at all... Turns out theres a compression relief valve that just blows up for no reason and these motors are known for it. Couple of beers, a motor on a folding party table, and some time and it was back up and running... (Probably happened to this one too) Really poorly constructed machine.
I bought a John Deere l111 for a couple hundred bucks and I love the hydrostatic drive but the model Briggs & Stratton was the only one that had a Japanese carburetor and it was crap. There was a solenoid on the bottom of the carburetor and to replace it it was over $60 so I took a properly sized bolt and a couple washers and stuck it in there then I put a cheap plastic fuel switch so when I wanted to stop it I would turn off the fuel and let it run it out because that solenoid just blocks the fuel so it doesn't backfire from fuel going into the hot muffler.
More often than not, the motors are the only thing still good on a lawn tractor, one with a working transaxle being a rare find. In other words, saving the transaxle or waiting for a working motor to fall in your lap wouldn't take long. From my experience anyway.
It probably had a plastic transmission in it as well, so chances are it wouldn’t have lived much longer anyway. It absolutely disgusts me how these junk piles can cost upwards of $3000 dollars to only to have it break in less than two years. My advice? Buy a good used one that is an older model, these things were built like actual tractors back in the day compared to these cheap stamped aluminum and flimsy plastic garbage heaps on wheels.
This does not have a spark arrester. Unless it's a California thing, I have never seen a rideing mower with any form of spark arrester that either exists or can clog. The main anti spark they have is reverse flow and baffles if they are nice enough. But mainly only reverse flow.
Should have put a zip tie around the flywheel hub instead of welding on cast iron. Everyone knows you can’t weld cast iron and zip ties can fix anything.
classic valve adjust. done a bunch. had a guy break a flywheel because of it. 5 cent part protected a 250 dollar flywheel. another good one. holy crap commented before actually watching the entire video...my bad. the 100 series is for depot. x300 and up is from the dealer. my x300 has a Kawasaki twin. no issues . Bought a BUG-A-SAULT gun for the stink bugs. dont give them a ride in the dyson...Ask me why.
@@thedoubtfultechnician8067 on rare occasions the cam gear will slip on the shaft. Its pressed on if I remember correctly. Get it back quick at least tear it apart and put it out of its misery.
Nah look into the Briggs compression release failure- it’s a piss poor camshaft design and a common failure. It’s what did this one in. A beefier starter motor might do the trick.
Yes, I have had the Dyson experience with the stink bugs. The bouncing around just makes them exude that horrible yellow goo and the little HEPA filter does not stop the odor from being blown all over the room. Also, after the whirly ride they just climb back out through the tube. I hate the damned things.
It is the worst, until the next model comes out. They are in the pursuit to the bottom. They want people to fork over for "The John Deere" experience, prestige and what used to be top-notch reliability. Now it just means that you overpaid by twice of what the machine is worth. And I am a John Deere owner (zero turn radius riding mower).
All of those machines are trash. Even new... they are trash. 7:24 Key's are a designed fuse... a weak link. If that tapered shaft is properly mated with the flywheel it will never spin before the crank cracks. Correctly lap them and you can run without a key no problem.
It would have been funny if you took it back and put it where you found it and put a FREE Again sign on it.
Iv done that before with a shop vac. It looked like new. Put in the passenger seat of my porsche. Drove a bit and it smelled funny. Look inside and see unspeakable things. Right back where it came from.
The flywheel was cracked before you even took it off.
How do you figure?
@@vaderdudenator1 at 5:55 you can see the crack on the top of the flywheel on the left top side of the keyway. It may not have been all the way down the side, but it was cracked.
Im thinking he knew that
@@crfjimhe also had pre ordered the welding rods,
Did somebody do something malicious?
I don’t even know how I ended getting this channel suggested but I’m pleased I did.
Nothing runs like a Deere…except other dead things. They all run the same way
Is this the first RUclips video to not end successfully??! It's refreshing!
Resurrected mine 3x so far. Valve adjustment is KEY and paying attention to the pushrod keeper as well as the valve collar. Any of these go out you get same symptom. Cranks then bounces off the decompression lever. Sure yours spun the flywheel but it’s probably fixable.
Those things are notorious for needing the valves adjusted often. It can make them hard to crank over like that and put more stress of the flywheel. Along with other issues. I picked up a free one with broken gears on the flywheel due to the valve adjustment making it hard to crank.
The valves were fine… I think it’s the camshaft. Not worth fixing
If friends don't help. That's what kids are for.
One thing real quick when it comes to welding a crack in cast iron, drill a hole at the end of whatever crack you're welding that way you stop it from continuing. My father learned this the hard way when he had to weld a cracked engine block back together.
made me smile, made me laugh, made me cry.
I did a little leg work online, found dozens of the fans and covers, no fly wheels. obviously this was a design flaw!
I have a Scotts which is a cheaper version of JD. Mine has a 25HP motor and a 46" deck, but besides being orange, I recognized the front axle casting and many other things. My solenoid isXX was at the back. I bypassed all their BS, and put a direct wire from my OWN quality switch, put a PROPER solenoid right next to the starter, and put a winch connector on my airplane battery so it is like 10 inches from battery to solenoid, and no more problems. I also can remove the battery when not in use by just unsnapping the lead, and put the battery in the shop; I also did this with my vehicles, a couple of FAT battery cables to a winch connector, so if I need to jump, it is snap battery on, start, remove, no cables needed.
i imagine this cycle of people picking up that mower will contine another 5 times before it ends up gettings scraped
I got one of those about four years ago, free.99... I ripped off the deck and used it to pull my deck off the side of my house... It still runs, I did nothing. I use it to drink and drive(reminiscing). My kids use it to bring beer to me when I'm over the neighbors; he never has enough.
loooooool
You okay, buddy?
Ayo you know I would've been there in 15 mins to load that shit up. Another fascinating watch though, reminds me of the time we had to fix the flywheel on the old Craftsman push mower :') Good times
The older 110’s were very good. Right about until 2000 or so.
Yay, new banger just dropped
"oh, crapbaskets"
Oh, you say that too?
I see you have the same sickness that I do. LoL I know that free thing is good and buggered but I just gotta try my luck!
To be clear the key is not the thing that keeps the system in time it's the torque of the bolt that holds down the flywheel. I made that mistake and broke 4 keys before I remembered to use a torque wrench on the bolt that holds it all down.
That D110 is bad but I'm not sure it's the worst. Find yourself an SST15, SST16 or SST18. The SST in the name stood for Spin Steer Technology, which was marketing BS for a hydrostatic transmission and free-castering front wheels. Basically a zero turn radius mower with a steering wheel instead of levers. Lots of slop in the steering makes it nearly impossible to drive in a straight line. OK for yards with lots of curved edges, but utterly infuriating for large rectangular yards. If you get on or off the go pedals too fast it will snap your neck, and rotating on a rear wheel -- its whole purpose, remember -- will tear up your lawn. They were only sold for a few years, at eye-watering prices. Luckily I got mine lightly used for a song. So far it has only needed a few cheap parts but when the transmission dies, it's scrap.
I hate those damn stink bugs. They’re exceptionally good at getting into my room and trying to get in bed with me.
Sounds like a good time! 😂
My elderly neighbor has one of these, and I maintain it for her. One day it wouldn't turn over at all... Turns out theres a compression relief valve that just blows up for no reason and these motors are known for it. Couple of beers, a motor on a folding party table, and some time and it was back up and running... (Probably happened to this one too) Really poorly constructed machine.
good thing that shard flew to the front
I bought a John Deere l111 for a couple hundred bucks and I love the hydrostatic drive but the model Briggs & Stratton was the only one that had a Japanese carburetor and it was crap. There was a solenoid on the bottom of the carburetor and to replace it it was over $60 so I took a properly sized bolt and a couple washers and stuck it in there then I put a cheap plastic fuel switch so when I wanted to stop it I would turn off the fuel and let it run it out because that solenoid just blocks the fuel so it doesn't backfire from fuel going into the hot muffler.
More often than not, the motors are the only thing still good on a lawn tractor, one with a working transaxle being a rare find. In other words, saving the transaxle or waiting for a working motor to fall in your lap wouldn't take long. From my experience anyway.
yeah the bin is back!! whoo whoo!!
You sound like a buddy of mine. Were you stationed in Miramar at some point?
ive been binging your channel. this is awesome. how do you not own a truck yet??
It probably had a plastic transmission in it as well, so chances are it wouldn’t have lived much longer anyway. It absolutely disgusts me how these junk piles can cost upwards of $3000 dollars to only to have it break in less than two years. My advice? Buy a good used one that is an older model, these things were built like actual tractors back in the day compared to these cheap stamped aluminum and flimsy plastic garbage heaps on wheels.
Check out my f525 video!
All it needs is an engine swap and a transmission swap and a deck upgrade and it would be a solid mower.
@@thedoubtfultechnician8067so everything 😂
IF you come across that situation take the muffler apart and clean the spark arrester. It will cause back pressure and blow the airbox apart.
This does not have a spark arrester. Unless it's a California thing, I have never seen a rideing mower with any form of spark arrester that either exists or can clog. The main anti spark they have is reverse flow and baffles if they are nice enough. But mainly only reverse flow.
Should have put a zip tie around the flywheel hub instead of welding on cast iron. Everyone knows you can’t weld cast iron and zip ties can fix anything.
As much as I love a good botch job: next time pre heat Your cast iron piece to at least 250 dungarees frankensteins. Give it a chance…
The horror of seeing that and knowing it’s the exact make n model of the lemon i also felt like was a brick wall that belongs only to the scrap heap
Should have kept it till you find a bad tractor with a good engine. That is alot of hours for one of them
turn it into a race mower IMO!
John Deere: curse of the cracked flywheel
The movie
Funniest ending so far :))))
I wonder if torquing the flywheel to spec would have worked lol
Is the D130 any better? My grandfather has one never maintains it and it runs great
11yrs and going strong. Used weekly.
Replaced the battery and front tires once. I would happily buy another.
@@rbhe357 same here. I actually changed the filters the other day. Only gripe is the cheap seat
Lol I still say flawless victory on the regular
The valves need adjusted
Oh Deere, a new flywheel is over 500 bucks before shipping and tax. Was wondering why it went back out to the curb
Flywheel is $50 used on eBay
Breaks & Scrappems
classic valve adjust. done a bunch. had a guy break a flywheel because of it. 5 cent part protected a 250 dollar flywheel. another good one. holy crap commented before actually watching the entire video...my bad. the 100 series is for depot. x300 and up is from the dealer. my x300 has a Kawasaki twin. no issues . Bought a BUG-A-SAULT gun for the stink bugs. dont give them a ride in the dyson...Ask me why.
Valves are perfect, unfortunately. Probably a broken camshaft.
@@thedoubtfultechnician8067 on rare occasions the cam gear will slip on the shaft. Its pressed on if I remember correctly. Get it back quick at least tear it apart and put it out of its misery.
Nah look into the Briggs compression release failure- it’s a piss poor camshaft design and a common failure. It’s what did this one in.
A beefier starter motor might do the trick.
Yes, I have had the Dyson experience with the stink bugs. The bouncing around just makes them exude that horrible yellow goo and the little HEPA filter does not stop the odor from being blown all over the room. Also, after the whirly ride they just climb back out through the tube.
I hate the damned things.
At 7:20
Ah Ah Ah Ah!! 👍
New ave?
Love it
Why is this the worst John Deere I'm very curious
Poor engine design and under built cheap transmissions.
@@thedoubtfultechnician8067 hopefully the same can't be said for the 130
@suburbanstoner420 The V-Twin engines might be better but it has the same transmission. They are weak but not hard to replace.
It is the worst, until the next model comes out.
They are in the pursuit to the bottom. They want people to fork over for "The John Deere" experience, prestige and what used to be top-notch reliability. Now it just means that you overpaid by twice of what the machine is worth.
And I am a John Deere owner (zero turn radius riding mower).
your vegetarian wife wears leather boots?!
What a piece of crap. We have a 20+ year old L120 and it still runs great. I guess the D series was even cheaper.
All of those machines are trash. Even new... they are trash.
7:24 Key's are a designed fuse... a weak link. If that tapered shaft is properly mated with the flywheel it will never spin before the crank cracks. Correctly lap them and you can run without a key no problem.
Average John deer product!
My grandmother almost got killed because of shit design and awful quality on a zero turn version of this!