DIY Cooler (Part 2) || Peltier Module
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
- Part 1: • DIY Cooler (Part 1) ||...
15x10 LED Matrix: • Make your own 15x10 RG...
Facebook: / greatscottlab
Twitter: / greatscottlab
Support me for more videos: www.patreon.co...
More project information (schematic, Arduino code, reference pictures) are on Instructables: www.instructabl...
Wouldn't it be nice to have a cold beverage right next to you. In this video series I will show you how to achieve this luxury by building a homemade cooler which decreases the temperature of your beverages down to 8 degree Celsius.
Parts list (affiliate links):
Aliexpress:
1x Arduino Nano: s.click.aliexp...
1x 2 Channel Relay Board: s.click.aliexp...
1x DS18B20: s.click.aliexp...
2x TEC1-12706 Peltier Modules: s.click.aliexp...
2x CPU Heatsinks: s.click.aliexp...
Amazon.de:
1x Arduino Nano: amzn.to/1VAMOeT
1x 2 Channel Relay Board: amzn.to/1OSHt3C
1x DS18B20: amzn.to/1NLT3NJ
2x TEC1-12706 Peltier Modules: amzn.to/1OSHwfI
2x CPU Heatsinks: amzn.to/1OSHxQN
Ebay:
1x Arduino Nano: rover.ebay.com/...
1x 2 Channel Relay Board: rover.ebay.com/...
1x DS18B20: rover.ebay.com/...
2x TEC1-12706 Peltier Modules: rover.ebay.com/...
2x CPU Heatsinks: rover.ebay.com/...
Music:
2011 Lookalike by Bartlebeats
In the Hall of the Mountain King, Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
1. No hot glue?!?!? Fame has changed you.
2. Recommended transformer weights XD.
3. 7 amps?!?! Damn!
7 amps at 12v
After watching all that I think I will stick to walking to my fridge to get my drinks
Your heatsinks won't be working as well as they should due to the very restricted airflow. Also don't use sandpaper on thermally conducting surfaces, the valleys it creates reduces the contact area reducing thermal dissipation. Close enough for government work though.
A word of advice for anyone planning a build, Superglue will chew threw polystyrene like nothing else.
Exactly!
After playing quite extensively with peltier elements I have a few hints for you;
1. The TEC1-12706 peltier elements are, despite the suggestive name, not designed for constant 12V but rather constant 6A. Some safety precautions should be followed such as limiting to constant voltage on powerup but I've found 15V makes them operate significantly better. Supposedly 19V should work after they have reached a large enough temperature difference, but my cheap power supply blew up (quite spectacularly) from overheating before I had a chance to try.
2. Watercooling is amazing with these things. I run a TEC1-12710 (upgraded from TEC1-12706 but yours should work just fine) on watercooling and I can bring (the bottom half of) a can of soda below fridge cold in just a couple of hours at a current of 4A (less than half power). Then I turn it upside down a few times and enjoy. Only works with metal cans though as glass bottles are too insulating on the bottom. I use a bit of packing plastic wrapped around the can but I might build something like your fridge later on.
3. Play your cards right and you can have your beverage cooled to just above freezing, then have the best drink ever made with a DIY cooler!
i would give the heatsinks more breath room so there more efficient
something like chamfer the styrofoam around the heatsinks
cool project
+Niels Dijkstra or using some of those heatpipe tower heatsinks. :)
+JaqiesGadgets yeah. maybe even better
or go full nerd and use watercooling
Watercooling isn't enough. Liquid Nitrogen is a better place to start
And that defeated the purpose of the whole experiment
+Niels Dijkstra no it wouldn't it would mean that the peltier would be cooler than the liquid nitrogen
I'm playing around with some peltier modules and boy is the hot side WAY hotter than to cold side is cold. You need really good heatsinks to keep the hot side from being so hot it actually makes the cold side as hot or hotter than room temp.
It’s very easy to make a heater out of a Peltier
@@ariesleo7396 Yes, just reverse the polarity...
The heating power of a Peltier is greater than the cooling power and by a wide margin...
Your videos are so interesting! I can't stop watching and I have no clue about how electronics work!
I was literally just thinking the same thing to myself!!!
That'll be one of the best beers you'll drink in a long time, after all this hard work!
bravo for the idea but some questions if you can answer :
- the project , do you try it 24 hours a day ? for a long period of time ?
- you used relay, is it better than a npn transistor or it's simply a matter of choice or price and simplicity ?
- measuring the cold temperature is a good idea, but i think that measuring the hot temperature of the other side is necessary to not overheat the system?
- can we think about cooling the "fridge" by steps if the temperature of the cold side is far from the needed temperature range? thinking about stopping every 5 minutes for example even it's up to the max temperature (8° in this case) cause if the door of the fridge is open it never cool enough to the needed range?
- for controlling the relays, you used an arduino, it's only needed for activating or deactivating the relays module, did a thermostat is a better idea ?
and finally i want to say that my questions are just for making better idea and i must tell you that i loved the idea and i found it original idea and hoping it can help even as a car mini fridge
a pretty cool project
get it? cool........ok i´ll stop now
+Mac Tec Redstone I get it
The second I heard him say it I knew this would be the top comment.
MightyWheatley ii
2*6=12 Amps !!! You'll need a power plant to energize those two peltiers it's so useless. All the fuses will be blown.
that sounded like a This Old Tony joke
I'm addicted to your videos
I built a cooler like this a year ago, only using a 50w pertier and I can even store 8 can of beers or wine, so anyway it is quiet big, and the lowest temperature is 5°C.
So inside I used a huge heatsink, but the outside is where things get complicated.
So I made a rectangular column which is hollow, and led out two 6mm copper pipes, made some loops and turns (something similar what you can see on the back of the refrigerators. Even added small strips on it to driver the warm away more effectively. Added a cap which is used for refrigerators, vacuumed it and filled it with R134a.
It works like a dream and only the power supply and the pertier and the control board consume energy, and has no sound.
And instead of Arduino there are boards designed for this. I mean you can buy a small board which has a 10A rellay on it, a 3 digit 7 segment screen and a connector for a NTC .
You can set if it is a cooler or a heather, the temperature you want and the delay temperate.
Costs only around €2 .
reverse the case, position it like a chest and the cold will stay trapped inside, otherwise your insulation will always suffer from the joinery plan.
+Okto Putsch
Or get some magnets to auto-seal it.
Radi0he4d1 he would need some rubber all around, anyway, like in a usual fridge or freezer.
+Okto Putsch magnets would help the problem, though. so would a latch. it's also possible though not optimal to use some styrofoam to seal it in conjunction with a latch or so, and the styrofoam may be that tight already.
+JaqiesGadgets The problem is not to close it, but to make it sealed. A latch would help, of course, But like your real fridge in the kitchen, it needs a good seal for a better thermal insulation ^^
Anyway, as cold tends to go down, it would be better to turn the boxe from back to under, aperture upward. Keeping cold longer, consuming less energy, and so not increasing the TCO of beers :D
i like these piece of hack stuffs, it's fun to make :)
+Okto Putsch I see what you mean. Cold air is heavier and sinks. If the case is face up it will keep the cold air inside, like a cup holding water. Otherwise hot air will seep in at the top of the door and cold air will seep through the bottom, if there isn't a good seal.
Really COOL XD. Get it? Cause its a fridge... ah nevermind.
Dw bro i laughed
More peltier projects ! :D
+Dan Erik Fredriksen Not in the near future. But we will see ;-)
I am waiting too! IN 2017!
@@greatscottlab I'm waiting in 2019. C'mon man, if not Peltier, maybe something even more efficient like phase change cooling with the residual heat from the condenser to drive the peltier?
I am waiting in 2020😀
I'm waiting in 2021
Am i the only one who watches these videos but dosent build anything?
I found one. He is typing this comment.
me too hahaha
me too lolol
yes
Im gonna build the arduino in a circuit for a home automation system
Interesting project, I gotta research more about those peltier modules Cool stuff. I noticed what might make a good addition is taking a pair of neodymium magnets, one epoxied to the door and another on the inside of the cooler(recessed into the styrofoam) and it will make for a nice "latch"
You should have shown the results. The cooling outputs etc...
Except this part, the designing of the body is excellent among all the design on youtube, great work. keep it up
very cool. I am currently designing a similar project to house a 5 liter mini keg for my home made beer inside a 7.7 liter insulated water jug. I plan on using one peltier unit controlled by an Arduino like you have done, but because I will store the unused kegs in a refrigerator, it will only need to keep them cool.
Great video, made a simular thing, but instead of arduino, I made it solar powered with a lead acid battery backup and called it a day.
as a college student in photonics, I didn't know i couldn't get a small refrigeration unit, I asked if I could buy one, they said I have one If I build one, they laughed.
this vid is pretty frigging netto
"I also recommend transformers to apply enough contact pressure"--nice, funny!
I though it seriously, why he need transformer to apply pressure
So that was a joke, and im feel stupid
awsome mate! I bought a time a go a peltier module to do this but i abandonned it, i should give it a try after this vídeo !! I love your channel !
You need secondary fans and heatsink on the cold side of Perrier to reach cold temp faster
Not your usual level of precision here. I get that the concept itself of a peltier fridge doesn't screams for efficiency, but damn, here we have a 10% efficiency at best considering all the thermal impedance.
dekupiersaw is a half german word... scroll saw is the right word :)
+Play Like Clyp3um also called coping saw, so not too far off.
+JaqiesGadgets yes your right :)
This could also be useful as a small enclosure for some temp sensitive outdoor equipment. A bit of code modification and a couple more relays and you could also reverse polarity to make it heat the inside on a cold day and cool it on a hot day. Of course further mods would be needed to make it rain resistant, but the concept is the same. Pre-manufactured Industrial environment control enclosures can cost several thousand dollars and use the exact same concept.
I think a more efficient way to cool it would be with a cheap custom built liquid cooler using distilled water. It is more slim and will likely cool the liquid slower as water is polar and temp resistant. Meaning you can leave the pump and loop off for longer saving more power and thus increasing efficiency. Also getting slimmer more dense foam would allow more inner space for cans and would make the walls thinner but equally effiecient. Also a cool touch would be adding a switch on the door the powers 3v led strips on the inside to add a bit of light when the door is opened. Overall though I was very impressed. Great video!
What if we had a 'heat' sink on the cold side with a small fan to blow the cool air in that small area? Would help cause the room in there be cool faster?
I ask because I plan on doing a project extremely similar to this but with a few 'twists' and additions.
Would be nice to see more and maybe out of the box ways to use peltiers, there are not very many good vids online
This was a really cool project! You executed it very well!
hey scott, great tutorial!! Can you please make this, with liquid cooling instead of air cooling, this should increase the performance very much. please make an upgraded version 2.0 , i am a big fan of your work. thanks if u read this comment.
You are blocking most of the cooler fins with styrofoam. You should cut out some of the insulation to get a much better airflow. Especially the smaller heatsink is completely buried... how should the hot air escape?
You should also put a fan on the inside to move the air around so you don't have to put the drinks near the aluminum sheet.
awesome project, the only thing i would have changed in this, is the direction the fans were blowing.. i would make the fans pull the hot air away from the heatsink/fridge instead of pushing air towards it.. but yeah that probably doesn't make a huge difference, but still..
Thanks GreatScott !
But wich Power Supply do I have to buy if I only want to use 2 electronic refrigeration modules + 2 cooling fan heatsink ?
Quick observation: poor air circulation around the hot air heat exchangers in the back. The foam needs to be cut back to let the air out (or in depending on the air flow). Should have as much cross sectional area going away from the fan as going into it .
I would like to know what the room temperature was.
Also is there a way of slowing down or stopping the diffusion of heat to the cold side once power is switched off?
I'm thinking of building a slightly bigger one with 3 peltiers. Need it to drop the temp by atleast 20'C below room temp.
Thanks and great video
Far better than useing a big motor/compressor and using mains power. Solar power could keep precious items cold. On hot days . Good work. Om. de kv4li ps 4 wire phone wire or cat 5 cable could be the best as it's cheep and reliable.
Would love to see an update video on this, showing any improvements you've made over time, or any re-designs.
its been 7 yrs
if this lasted one year, I would be shocked. Still a fun project!
Nice project!! I watched and I been wondering if we could try using copper instead of aluminium to improve results
im gonna assume that yes. copper will improve results, but i dont think by much. Something that most certainly would improve results though, would be higher-end heatsinks and using a fan on the inside to blow cool air around.
What did you use to keep the heatsinks on the cooling modules? just the thermal glue? and can I use an old ATX size power supply from an old computer?
I recommend that if you upgrade this you use water cooling instead. With a simple cheap corsair water cooler i easily got the peltier around -30C with 4 amps flowing through the peltier.
Or heat pipes.
I think the reason why it took a whole night to cool was the efficiency of the back heatsinks, plus the cracks in the Styrofoam. The Styrofoam might not be sealed properly and the 2 little holes for each heatsink on each side might not expel enough air from the heatsinks.
Got myself an active cooling box big enough for most bottles that runs on both mains 220V and 12V cigarette plug for like 25-30€, seems to use peltiers and fans as well. Only thing that annoys me about it is the bad regulation of the fans, on mains power you can only use like the second half of the potentiometer to regulate them, because in the first half you can hear the PWM regulation work clicking when turning the fan on and off which is really annoying, because you turned it down to make it quiter. On 12V it doesn't regulate at all so you get the constant hum of the Fan.
If you were to keep the modules on constantly instead of turn on when needed, will it Get cooler? I understand it would use much more electricity, but I don’t really car about that. ;) Also, Do you think it would speed up the cooling process by adding a fan to the interior of the fridge?
Is glue a working as a thermal conductor?
Maybe you can improve the performance by screwing the heatsinks into the big aluminum plate with the small aluminum plate and the peltier module and some thermal compound in between.
Great videos man, I love all of them, keep it up!
pretty nice job
hello my friend^^
Do you know does it work on 12V-2A normally? and what difference will be between 2A and 5A? cooling side will be better cooled or time to cool will be smaller?
Thanks for your time^^
What would happen if you stack the thermal things? I’m pretty sure the hot side of one would be cooled by the cold side of the other and will allow the outer most surfaces to have a greater temperature difference
You need like four modules to extract the heat from one but yes, you can make cascade arrangements capable of reaching astonishingly low temperatures.
When you paint an edge of mdf use a celulose laquer, simply spray those edges and sand them 2 times and then you can prime and paint them and edges looks smooth and with no weird texture.
An internal fan is counter-productive. Even a very small fan like you would put on a GPU doesn't make a significant difference. All of the energy that you put into a fan is going to be converted to kinetic energy or waste heat. While you might be able to circulate air to the cooling element, you are also circulating the hot air off of the fan motor. You would be better off putting a passive cold sink inside (that is essentially what the aluminum sheet is doing), but adding fins is not space efficient.
The best way to improve your cooling power is to put the biggest, baddest heat sink you can find on your system. A peltier module has a maximum heat differential across the the hot and cold sides. That's why the cold side actually started warming up after a few minutes of operation as the hot side reached that maximum differential.
Power in and dumping waste heat are the two main factors in how cold you can go.
When you turn off power to the Peltier, there is no more thermal transfer effect, so the cold side and the hot side will reach equilibrium quickly, so turning off power actually makes things worse.
Another comment suggested using a pwm strategy or power supplies designed with Peltier in mind. One thing that you could do is keep the fans going full blast when you turn off power to the modules so you get rid of the thermal waste faster than it can bleed back over to the cold side. Some of the older fans had an integrated thermocouple that would put the fans into high gear when the sensor detected too much heat.
Since you have electronics skills, you might try reducing the current as you approach your target temperature. You have to depend on the thermal efficiency of your enclosure being able to keep ambient heat out, but you could keep the hot side well within the capacity of your heat sink to disperse.
In fact, this would be a decent measure of how efficient your enclosure is. How much power does it take to maintain a consistent internal temperature.
It takes huge efforts to practically creating one
What if you put a heat sink inside also? Will it improve the heat exchange performance?
Does the 12 volts 30 amps power supply pushes all 30 amps or does it only use on what the Peltiers and fans need?
Have you tried to stack peltiers so that you could use peltier to cool down the other peltier? I quess this way its possible to get the temperature in the box lower but of course you will need very effective cooling for the upper peltier.
i already see a possible issue with this specific design. those heatsinks need a space next to them for the hot air exhaust to go anywhere. just cut some holes on the back for that and you'll be fine.
What kind of wattage can each Peltier modules handle? Also what voltage gives the best performance? I have 5 of em and I had a little project in mind i wanted to finish and hook up to a solar panel.
Dude you do lots of projects. And what do you do with all these stuff keep em by yourself in your shelf?
Hey,
ich habe eine Frage bezüglich einer Schaltung.
Ich möchte einen 12V LED Streifen über Batterien oder über ein Netzteil Powern. Doch wie muss ich das verkabel, dass jeweils nur eine von den beiden Stromquellen meine LED's zum leuchten bringen?
Danke im Voraus!
MfG Alex
Bro how about using 10 of those to cool a rectangular cabin of length 2m*1m*0.5m with water cooling on the heat side. Is it feasible ?? How much will it save power than a regular split ac
This fridge is awesome!
Hi man. How much electicity is this thing use ? Max ,min and avarage ? Peltier use 60kwh normally. But with arduino and relay module its be less. İ am waiting your reply :D
I think is bad that cpu cooling fan sides are closed, air is not circulating, is he not overheating?
Hallo Great Scott. Die Dämmung sollte man eher im Inneren Anbringen, da das Styropor somit sofort den Wärmeverlust ausgleichen könnte. Zudem, haben die Kühlkörper somit keine Chance ihr volles Potential zu entfalten. da der Kühlkörper halb bedeckt ist. Trotzdem finde ich dieses Video sehr interessant!
to increase the efficiency of peltier you can stack two modules on top of each other. This way you'll have smaller temperature difference and the peltier module is more efficient the smaller the difference (you just drive it with lower voltage). Ideally the hot side peltier mus have twice the area as the cold one.
I wonder if using 2 of those Power Mac G5 circa 50W heatsinks would actually improve it? At least, I tried putting a TEC on one and connected it to a 12V computer PSU and it got to about -3ºC at ~6 A
that nearly doubles the construction size though...
Is it better to use a normal heatsink, hotpipe heatsink or water block with radiator?
Awesome project! Maybe you can use a lasercutter to create a tidy box next time.
Does the fan blow air to the the heatsink to cool the hot plate or does it suck the heat from the heatsink and blow it out?
What did you call the saw at 1:20? I'm not trying to be rude, I just don't recognize what you called it. I'm assuming it's a brand name or nickname like Skil saw, Sawzall, etc?
+Just Make It the german name for that tool is "Dekupiersäge", which he didn't seem to translate
Ah ok. Thanks.
Want to know more about rc transmitters and receivers, the signal, how to improve it, what is bad for it, Please make a video about it!! i am having some difficulties with a project of mine receiving the signal, It will be awesome!!
I have been waiting for part II! Super siked! Also, could you make a tutorial on a phone charger bike mount that is solar powered? I bike all the time and I have a phone mount, but a lot of times it dies when I need it most :( That'd be great if you could do that!
you would not have to wait overnight if at cold side you had used a small heatsink with fan as forced convection is very efficient than natural convection
update:also you should add those small aluminium squares at hot side not on cold side.switching off peltiers would raise the internal temperature rapidly as compared when running at low voltage.so it is not a power saving method.use MOSFETs to lower the voltage so it uses less current.
Great project! Why didn't you use your X-Carve to cut the panels and styrofoam?
+Tito1337 Not sure. Maybe I will use it next time.
Do an improvement video for example: hidden wires, internal power supply, external built in temperature control knob, external built in digital thermometer and a real ac power plug... love the project
Every time you open the door all the cold air comes out, at this size a 'chest' type would be better. Polystyrene is not closed cell and can become water logged due to condensation. A coat of emulsion or 3 on the inside would help. A simple 12v thermostat would be far less complicated, cheaper and more reliable. EBAY - W1209 DC12V -50~110°C Digital Temperature Control Switch Sensor ATF £1.31 They are 'fantastic' and I don't often use that word.
But will it blend? That is the question!
Hi Scott,
great project :-) There is only a small mistake in your cooling concept, because you've covered the sides of the heatsinks with the case, therefore the heatsinks can not work efficiently. There is no good heat exhaust. BTW: To make the cooling effect a little more efficiently and faster, I would create the inner side panels (top, left, bottom & right) out of aluminium and connect it to the rear panel with thermal grease.
Best regards,
Chris
Hey I know i maybe late but does it work as an small AC? Is it worth it?
For the hot side; I wounder if you can stack fans on top of each other to get better cooling on that heatsink? I ask since not all 12v fans may meet the CFM requirements.
Actually, using a better cooler (watercooled or with heat pipes) will give much better result, atleast in my experience.
PC heatpipe or watercoolers make excellent Peltier hot side coolers.
If you can mount more then one fan on it, expect that the hot side to be cooler for some degrees.
Would smaller fan forced heatsinks (or even without the fan(s)) on the inside make the cooling much more efficient than just a plate?
+Glen O'Riley Yes! I'm glad that other people are noticing this.
Would it be fine to use 3 or 4 of the peltier modules for faster cooling, or would it draw to many amps.
I must say you have done wonderful project here but is it posible to speed up cooling proces a bit?
+Veso266 A higher powered Peltier module and a larger power supply should achieve this. :D
+Veso266 Oh and if you're getting a bigger PSU and a bigger Peltier module you probably also want a better heatsink or maybe like another user mentioned look at water cooling it.
i got a simple improvement.
put the fans backwards so they suck hot air out of the cooler
now they are pushing hot air in to the cooler
+expansiongames they are not pushing air into the cooler, they are pushing air thruogh the fins of the heatsink
yea but after it moves trough the fins it gets in the cooler and warms it back up
no, the inside of the cooler is sealed. the air isn't getting in there, just like a fridge
but the heatsink is toutching the inner cabnet and that heats up
+expansiongames actually it isn't, it's only touching the peltier. the inner cabinet is insulated from the heatsinks via the MDF board which is actually enough for the small area they occupy. Reversing the fans will not really improve flow and will definitely increase noise as the blades will not even be one millimeter from the heatsink surface because of how the fans are designed.
"It was a pretty COOL project" - GreatScott
Where are you from? :D Or where do you bought this thermal conductive glue? Because I can see there "Klej termoprzewodzący" which is in Polish language.
can you make this build with a fan inside to help cooling faster? I wish that I would, but I can't find a thermoelectric cooler or arduino nano (and I dont know how to set it up)
hi
loved the video
can this be used to condense air to produce water?
please help
how could we make it more efficient? Maybe water cooled tank using cpu coolers and pelitier?
Next, you should do something Solar powered :) or a homemade powerbank or something you need every day but you can build your self! :)
How did you manage to make the heatsinks stick to the peltier modules? Well I mean thermal paste is not an adhesive........So how?
Gab Racal one of the two pastes was a thermally conductive glue
Nice project! I wonder how much the heat transfer would improve if there was forced air circulation also inside the cooler.
can you tell me that if i put 3 litres of water bottles with 2 peltier devices how much temperature will drop
I would recommend using some much bigger heatsinks for the outside, like those with heatpipes and copper base and total size of approx. 80x80x120mm. You want to maximize dT and with such big heatsinks you can get quite some heat away from the peltier and by that much more from the inside. For ideal 50% efficiency and your (I think) 80W module that means a dissipation of 160W per module. Maybe add some small heatsink to the inside with a small fan to not only rely on convection. For some extra kicks you can monitor the hot side and devise some algorithm to stop the element when dT starts to drop. And/or use some mosfets to (slowly) PWM the thing to achieve constantly max dT.
Is it possible to make a compact version? ie: same internal volume but lower total volume (including PSU)?
The return of the zentimeters ! :)
I was wondering how efficient those things are, but if it takes some 100W to cool two cans over night, I think I got my answer. Not very efficient.
Mile Jukic 30%
Simon WoodburyForget No, it doesn't work like that
Simon WoodburyForget Power in time is energy (eg. 100W for 10 hours is 1KWh), just like mass and temperature. It's about the amount of heat, not just temperature. Whatever, I've studied those Peltier modules, they could be fun, but still not effective enough for practical use.
Simon WoodburyForget Let me put it this way. It takes ten times more energy to cool down ten cans than just one (I didn't count the air, the air has very small heat capacity because of its small mass), to the same temperature. It's about the energy, OK. When we talk about effeciency, we talk about useful transfer of ENERGY from one form to another, the desired one.
Simon WoodburyForget That's right :)
Cool project! I'd suggest a kickstart campaign to get both a mini-table saw and a bandsaw! I'd contribute! Great work :)
+Houston Firefox Before that I would need a bigger workspace. But thanks for the compliment.
80W, (zwei Elemente mit je 40W), um über Nacht zwei Dosen Bier zu kühlen. Ineffektiv ist da noch untertrieben als Bezeichnung :-D
Ich hatte auch mit dem Gedanken gespielt mir was zu bauen, hab es dann aber gelassen, eben weil die Pelz-Tier Elemente einen zu schlechten Wirkungsgrad haben.
Ich hab dann etwas gespart udn mir eine kleine Kompressorbox geholt. Die macht theoretisch bis minus 20 Grad, schaltet sich auch selber ab bei Erreichen einer eingestellten temperatur und sieht unter Vollast auch nicht mehr als 40W.
Mit einem Flugakku aus meiner Modellbaukiste (3s oder 4s mit 5Ah) kann ich das Ding einen Nachmittag am See betreiben udn es passen mehr als nur 2 Bier rein.
Nachteil: Das Ding ist teuer und es fehlt das Erlebnis des Selbstgebauten. Aber die Energie packe ich dann lieber in das Bauen von weiteren Flugmodellen ;-)