Making FISHING LURE MOLDS with PLASTER - easy and fast
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- Опубликовано: 25 июл 2021
- I have had a number of inquiries into how I make my custom poured lures for halibut and spotted bay bass fishing. I this video, I'll show the process of casting my own molds using Plaster of Paris.
The entire process takes 24-30 hours, but the actual work on the mold only takes 12 - 15 minutes depending on your abilities/experience with plaster.
Materials for making the molds:
amzn.to/3FYUmZQ - DAP Plaster of Paris
amzn.to/40oBCLz - Perfect Cast Plaster (5x stronger than plaster)
Liquid Plastic (I use the Hard formula):
barlowstackle.com/barlows-liq...
Liquid Plastic Heat Stabilizer:
barlowstackle.com/Heat-Stabil...
Liquid Plastic Injector:
barlowstackle.com/do-it-plast...
Color Pigments for Plastisol Lures:
barlowstackle.com/worm-making...
Nova Stone Glitter Powder Paint:
barlowstackle.com/nova-stone-...
Jighead Lead Mold - Standard Round Head:
barlowstackle.com/Do-It-Round...
For all your DIY fishing projects, replacement hooks, and so much more, check out Barlow's Tackle:
www.barlowstackle.com?afmc=STARTFISHINGTODAY
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BEST VIDEO OUT THERE for making molds not a lotta people do this or tell the secrets video very helpful man !
EXCELLENT!!! Thank you for the compliment! Glad it helps!
Thanks for sharing this with us dude!!!
Sure. No problem. Thanks for watching!
Thanks I was thinking about this earlier today and stumbled on your video thanks for your info and tricks
AWESOME!!! Hope it helps. More "How-To" videos to come soon.
Thank you for all your hard work.
Good produkt.
Cheers m8.
Yeeewww! 👍
Game changer, thanks man.
Yeeeewwwww!
Great stuff!!
Thank you!!!
Thank you for sharing! Tell your dad thanks, too. You saved me some trial and error.
Absolutely! I'm going to be posting a follow-up video to this soon with a MUCH better way to seal the plaster mold before use. Keep an eye out for it 😉
Very useful video .thank you
Excellent! Glad it helped you.
Excellent
Thank you! Stay tuned. More coming!
Really nice gud!❤
Thank you!
Awesome video!
Thank you and thanks for watching/the comment!
@@StartFishingToday I really found your video very informative, I’m starting a business and couldn’t find a good mold making video until I came across your channel. I could now bring my lure sketch into reality, THANK YOU!
Also looking forward to your next RUclips video!
@@davidsalinas780 Awesome! Also, when u get the lures right/exactly how u want them with the plaster of paris, you can actually get what is called Perfect Cast from Amazon. This plaster is advertised as 5x stronger than regular plaster. I would mold the "perfect" lure u make with that, then send them in to be cast aluminum.
Amazing video. New sub
THANK YOU!!!
I did this today, came out perfect.. i inserted 3 tiny pieces of wire into the tails so they stayed straight and true.
YES!!! Now, GO GET SOME! Yeeewwww!
Thanks for the video! Would this DAP Plaster of Paris work for casting decorative items that you'd place in your house? I would like to know if its fairly durable
Hi. Yes, it is very durable. You can use it for just about anything. I have seen some use the silicone molds and pour in the plaster to create a solid object. Then, make sure you follow the instructions and let cure for the proper amount of time to harden correctly. Then, I use clear coat nail polish to seal the plaster and add an extra layer of hardness to it. Then you can paint it or whatever you want. I still have lure molds from when my dad made then 20 - 30 years ago!!! They are not unbreakable, but def sturdy. Hope that helps ;-}
Have you tried Pledge Floor Wax, it's pure acrylic. I paint board game figures thinning the acrylic paint with a 50/50 mixture of Floor Wax to water. When done, a few coats of just the 50/50 mixture to get a good seal on the finished coat. My guess is, it would fill any pours, smooth the surface.
I have not! Great idea. I may try that the next time...depending on cost.
@@StartFishingToday About $6.29, I have had one bottle for years. It is floor wax so, doesn't work, use it there. I would use a respiratory mask, I paint 6 foot Halloween skeletons with this stuff, other Halloween props.
I use magic wash, 50/50, for washing, and as I say, as a substitute for thinning Acrylic paints. I used it almost straight from the bottle to glue on Martian helmets for a board game. It didn't cloud the clear helmets like glue.
m.ruclips.net/video/gR3aIAth5qU/видео.html
You just hit 300!! I was your 300th sub!
Thank you! Much appreciated and thanks for watching!
Using this technique, could you cast other types of lures like burner worms for example or Twister tails?
Kind of. With this mold, you can only make the lure with flat tops/backs. However, here is the link to the video I made for creating full body molds with plaster. ruclips.net/video/GyCbagrI068/видео.html
In this one, yes, you can make the lures you referred to, as well as all other full body plastic lures. Good luck and have fun!
Greetings and thanks for the terrific videos! Can or should the nail polish sealing process be done with the jig head lead pour molds as well?
No. Don't use any sealer for any lead mold with plaster. The melting point for the plastisol is low enough for the seal coat. With lead having a 624° melting point, it will simply melt the seal coat and stick to the plaster, destroying the mold. The plaster needs to be completely dry of moisture or other material or the lead will blow/pop. No good!
On this session, the fish were generally farther out, so I was using a 1/2oz. If they're generally closer, I'll use a 1/4oz on my UL setup.
@@StartFishingTodayThanks for the insight and speedy response!😉
Absolutely! Thanks for watching!
What if you want to do this for a lure like the strike king rage bug? Will it work for baits like that? Where both sides are important? Or is this technique only good for paddletail softbaits?
You can, but not with this "single-side" plaster mold. You need to do it with a 2-side mold and use an injector. Watch this video: ruclips.net/video/GyCbagrI068/видео.html
@@StartFishingToday Thanks for the link! Do you think it is also possible to make a 2 sided silicone Mold for handpouring softbaits like this?
Yes. Silicone is just a more costly material.
Great video. Does the nail polish affect the smell of the bait and have an effect on the scent to the fish? I guess only the fish could answer that, right? .......but have you noticed any difference?
Ha. You're correct - only the fish know that. However, the nail polish is only to seal the mold. I spray Pam (or any cooking spray into the mold before I pour the plastic. That helps the plastic release from the mold better and also adds a little "flavor" to the lure too. But, I also soak my plastics in bags with sardine oil before use. The plastic smell is virtually gone by the time I use the bait.
Yes, I do notice a difference in the amount of strikes I get from not soaking my lures first vs soaking. More for sure.
There is actually a good (short) video on YT on underwater footage of halibut following/chasing a swimbait. It was crazy how many fish just followed/chased and then simply swam away. 1 retrieve and probably 5 or 6 followed without biting. It was crazy. I can only imagine how many strikes you potentially lose if the bait doesn't smell or swim properly.
Thanks for the reply. Appreciate your insight. Who knows how many strikes we miss and what little changes we can do on a bait to have an effect on that. Thanks again.
Where can I get the materials other than the plaster of Paris!. The lure materials are what I am interested in getting!.
www.barlowstackle.com?afmc=STARTFISHINGTODAY
Thank you in advance!
Hey question how much do if the powder do u put
I believe you are asking how much powder do I use? Until you are used to using plaster of paris, follow the instructions on the bag. After you have made a batch or 2, you start to get a feel for how you like to work with it. Then it's just a matter of more or less water to mix in. It all really depends on how thick or watery you want it and how big of a container you are using to create the mold.
How did you get rid of the bubbles when you pour the plastic in on the top it seems to rise up when I’m pouring
Hi. There are a couple things you can do. First, and most expensive (but most efficient), is you can get a vacuum chamber for degassing the plastisol (amzn.to/3Tw3k7X) or, alternatively, you can use a heat gun to keep the plastic more fluid - allowing all the bubbles to rise to the surface. Again, I do not sell my plastics, so I don't even worry about the small bubbles. I donlt find that they get less bites compared to zero bubbles. Bubbles are going to happen no matter what the moment you start stirring.
How hot do u melt the soft bsit to poor in the mold and will the mold melt it self
Plastisol has a melting point around 325°. I don't use thermometer to get exact. No, the plaster mold will not melt. I use plaster for making leadheads and lead lure and lead has a melting point of 622°F.
Does the plaster get hard enough to make it a inject mold and be clamped together?
Yes! I made a separate video specifically for full-body 2-piece plaster molds.
ruclips.net/video/GyCbagrI068/видео.html
You can also get Perfect Cast from Amazon. It is more expensive, but it's up to 5x stronger than regular plaster of paris.
When I used pop and after my plastisol has cooked it has a dull look to my bait kinda like flat paint or no glossy. What went wrong or do I need to add something to the surface of the pop mold?
I watched again and I forgot about the nail polish. So doing this will that stop the dull look of my baits?
The nail polish is really just used as a way to "seal" the pop and prevent the cooking spray (release agent) from soaking into the pop. The pop is extremely porous, so it absorbs like no other. I am not 100% sold on that the plastics need to be shiny to get bit more. I rely on the bait's action and smell/taste. I do soak my plastics in a plastic bag with fish oil (Pro-Cure or others work) after trimming/before use. But, if you do NEED the baits to shine, there are 2 things you can do. 1. (more costly, but guaranteed to last) Make an ultra thin/watery batch of just pure clear plastisol and dip each finished plastic in and letting it drip dry. Then, once that clear overcoat dries, trim the hanging piece and that lure will now be shiny. You don't want it to be thick. Or. 2. (virtually free and what I do), you can use more cooking spray or food oil of some kind to the mold before pouring the plastic. Ultimately, it's the pop that is "absorbing" the shine of the plastisol. So as long as you make sure to "seal" the pop or make sure there is a layer of oil between the pop and the poured plastisol, you should get your shine. Also, another option would be to create the mold with a craft silicone. High temperature threshold, but more expensive. The silicone does not absorb at all 👍
'm thinking of adding the cap of a silicone bottle as the injection port, then I could just squeeze ordinary silicone into it for tests etc.
You do whatever you want 👍😉. Yeeewww!
but thatnks for the idea.... I think I have evrything I need to try
@@StartFishingToday
Are you setting the baits sideways or straight down
If the lure has a flat back, then straight down. If the back is round or has other functionality (full body lure), I lay sideways and make it a 2-piece mold. I made a separate video on that a few months ago that you can watch.
Great video ! I find if you use a white glue stick it's good enough to hold the lure in place
Yes, there are a few ways to do it. I prefer placing them on top so I can see exactly what the lure is doing. Once you pour on top, you lose visibility. The tail could come unglued, there could be a bubble pocket behind the tail - all of which can ruin the mold and have to start over.
@StartFishingToday Thats a very good point ! Have you tried molding hard lures ? I'd love to see how you remove a hard lure
Could you elaborate a little more so I am sure to understand your request?
@StartFishingToday Sorry , I'm curious if you can use this method to cast jerkbaits , crankbaits , glidebaits and such .
You can use plaster (and non-hardening modeling clay in certain applications) to cast MANY things. But, if you looking to make your own jerkbaits, crankbaits, etc., I recommend Barlow's Tackle of course.
This link is for all their plastic, wood, and brass lure blanks: barlowstackle.com/lure-making/lure-blanks/?afmc=zk
They also have everything else you need to complete the DIY project.
Looks simple enough for me..
The clear coat doesn't effect the baits detail at all?
I'll actually push another video live here soon, showing an improved way of fishing the mold. But, to answer your question, no. It doesn't mess up the finish. It actually allows for a more natural, shiny(er) finish as the plaster itself leaves the plastic dull when it's removed of no clear coat is added.
@@StartFishingToday ahh👍
Think I'm going to give this a try today
Do it!!!
You could suspend the blank and pour around it,obviously not ideal with plastic molds,but hardbaits is the way to go.
There are several ways to do it. I just found that this way created the best mold for the flat top swimbaits. I have other videos for doing full-body 2-piece swimbait molds as well as one for hardbait molds starting with modeling clay. Go get 'em!
what name liquid for create softlure
I use the MF Saltwater Plastic 7132SW. You can buy in 1 quart or 1 gallon bottles. I get mine from Barlow's Tackle online. You can also purchase directly from MF Manufacturing at pouryourownworkms dot com
How do you avoid getting the tail ripped off?
@moisesmiguel6915 - Are you asking about when I remove from the plaster mold? If so, I use a oil cooking spray (like PAM). I spray in the mold about every 4th or 5th pour to allow the plastic to come out easily.
What if i pour too much plastic? How do i get it to stay to the shape of the mold? Scrape it or tear it? Just trash it?
Pour slower to just get the poured plastic about 1/16 - 1/8" above the mold, allowing for a little bit of shrinking. You can always trim the tail and sides. Def better to be thicker than to thin. If too thin, the tail will not have any real action. If only pouring 1 color, you can just take it out and put back in the liquid plastic to melt and repour.
@@StartFishingToday thanks
Do you sell these? Like, are they good enough to quality to sell?
Thanks for the question. I do not sell any of the baits I make. Strictly for my personal use only. But...that is why I made this and other "how-to" videos. When I make a bait that gets bit and retail is expensive, I'll make the video to help you and others save a bit of $$$. As for if they are "good enough" to sell - if the fish bite 'em, they're good enough in my book!
Kk! I’m starting up a lure shop and I’m trying to save a lot of money. At least until I can get good molds and stuff.
If you are going into the "business" of making plastics to sell, you can make prototypes with wood or clay. Then make a plaster mold with them. Then make some plastics to test from the plaster molds...got to make sure they catch fish of course. Then, once you have thousands of casts and hundreds if not thousands of catches with your own design, then work with a company to machine that lure into an aluminum mold. The aluminum works much better for maintaining a constant temperature - which is very key to making near flawless plastic lures. The slower the plastic cools, the less shrinking or contracting of the plastic you have. Hand-poured baits in plaster are super fast and work, but if you are making hand-poured lures for business, you need to do it right if you want to sell them. There are no cutting corners if you want to make it a business and do it right. Hope this helps.
This gave me a lot of needed info! I will definitely in time gain experience with this and I hope to become a top notch bait seller.( I’m 13 and am very ambitious)
Does the nail polish avoid the bait from being ripped apart? In order for it to come out smoothly
I'll have to do a new video on the actual process of pouring the plastic. Until then, to answer your question, the nail polish is just to seal the plaster (filling the micro voids). I use PAM or any cheap cooking spray to add a very thin layer of oil so the plastic doesn't stick. I do this about every 5-6 pours. Lures come right out. Right after you remove the plastic lure, pit into ice cold water to quick cure it.
@@StartFishingToday you wait 5-6 hours for a other batch or for the lures to set?
@moises Miguel For the plaster, I would let set/dry for at least 5-6 hours, if not more, before pouring the plastic. Less moisture in it, the better. For the plastic, I let sit for a about 3 minutes before removing from plaster mold, then dumping into ice water.
@@StartFishingToday by any chance do you know any companies that sell stiff/tough plastisol?
@moises Miguel I buy mine from BarlowsTackle.com. I use the MF saltwater formula (pink label) with a separate bottle of Heat Stabilizer.
Whats the plastic you use
MF Liquid Plastic (I use Saltwater formula):
barlowstackle.com/MF-Liquid-Plastic/?afmc=po
All you need is to put the fish in soft clay first, use modify real frozen fish for model
I have tried that. The problem is that a plastic made from a real fish mold does not have any action when you retrieve. The plastic/artificial lures are made to have a tail that wobbles back and forth to make vibration in the water. That is what the live fish feel with their lateral line. So the more movement, the more likely a live fish will feel/hear it and bite it.
Won’t the whole top side just be flat ?
Yes, for this particular mold, the top will be flat - just like other name brand swimbaits. However, here is our link for making full-body molds with plaster. ruclips.net/video/GyCbagrI068/видео.html
You seem to be using a lot of nail polish. Doesn't it puddle in the mold?
Nope. The plaster is very porous. it soaks in. It is only used to fill the micro open holes.
Very helpful. I use automotive clear coat for my fishing lure painting. I'm thinking it may be more durable than nail polish. Have you ever tried anything like that to seal your molds?
@Ed Deluthe Yes, but the nail polish is resin based, so it is much more durable and lasts longer with the heat of the melted plastic. Clear coat spray is not resin-based and does not withstand the heat of thr melted plastic. It peels off in my experience.
@@StartFishingToday Thank you much. Gonna give it a try.
@@eddeluthe5131 Perfect! Enjoy!
Do you need the nail polish
I recently pushed a new video out, showing a newer way to seal the plaster molds. The seal coat is more so you don't have to keep adding cooking spray or some type of oil after every couple of pours. The liquid plastic, over a few pours, will actually stick to the plaster and make it harder and harder to remove the lure after poured. So, I now use the gorilla glue 5 minute set epoxy instead. The nail polish lasts, but only for so long. The 2-part epoxy lasts and lasts. Plus, the seal/epoxy coat gives the lure a shiny fishing instead of plaster alone leaves the lure dull.