Absolutely! I'm going to be posting a follow-up video to this soon with a MUCH better way to seal the plaster mold before use. Keep an eye out for it 😉
No. Don't use any sealer for any lead mold with plaster. The melting point for the plastisol is low enough for the seal coat. With lead having a 624° melting point, it will simply melt the seal coat and stick to the plaster, destroying the mold. The plaster needs to be completely dry of moisture or other material or the lead will blow/pop. No good!
Thanks for sharing. I just picked up my plaster and going to attempt this method. One question. Is the nail polish coating absolutely need and if so will it not alter the original shape of mold? Thanks once again
The clear coat finish isn't 100% needed, but it sure makes a huge difference. I actually published a new video for this showing that I use 5-minute epoxy for the finish. It's much easier and more permanent application. No more spraying oil on the mold as a separating agent. Every plastic comes out easy and shiny.
Have you tried Pledge Floor Wax, it's pure acrylic. I paint board game figures thinning the acrylic paint with a 50/50 mixture of Floor Wax to water. When done, a few coats of just the 50/50 mixture to get a good seal on the finished coat. My guess is, it would fill any pours, smooth the surface.
@@StartFishingToday About $6.29, I have had one bottle for years. It is floor wax so, doesn't work, use it there. I would use a respiratory mask, I paint 6 foot Halloween skeletons with this stuff, other Halloween props. I use magic wash, 50/50, for washing, and as I say, as a substitute for thinning Acrylic paints. I used it almost straight from the bottle to glue on Martian helmets for a board game. It didn't cloud the clear helmets like glue. m.ruclips.net/video/gR3aIAth5qU/видео.html
@@StartFishingToday I really found your video very informative, I’m starting a business and couldn’t find a good mold making video until I came across your channel. I could now bring my lure sketch into reality, THANK YOU! Also looking forward to your next RUclips video!
@@davidsalinas780 Awesome! Also, when u get the lures right/exactly how u want them with the plaster of paris, you can actually get what is called Perfect Cast from Amazon. This plaster is advertised as 5x stronger than regular plaster. I would mold the "perfect" lure u make with that, then send them in to be cast aluminum.
That is clear nail polish. However, since this video was made, I changed the finish coat to a 2-part epoxy clear coat. Here is a more recent video with me finishing the mold with epoxy: ruclips.net/video/UR059_ImnMc/видео.html
What if you want to do this for a lure like the strike king rage bug? Will it work for baits like that? Where both sides are important? Or is this technique only good for paddletail softbaits?
You can, but not with this "single-side" plaster mold. You need to do it with a 2-side mold and use an injector. Watch this video: ruclips.net/video/GyCbagrI068/видео.html
I'll actually push another video live here soon, showing an improved way of fishing the mold. But, to answer your question, no. It doesn't mess up the finish. It actually allows for a more natural, shiny(er) finish as the plaster itself leaves the plastic dull when it's removed of no clear coat is added.
Hi. There are a couple things you can do. First, and most expensive (but most efficient), is you can get a vacuum chamber for degassing the plastisol (amzn.to/3Tw3k7X) or, alternatively, you can use a heat gun to keep the plastic more fluid - allowing all the bubbles to rise to the surface. Again, I do not sell my plastics, so I don't even worry about the small bubbles. I donlt find that they get less bites compared to zero bubbles. Bubbles are going to happen no matter what the moment you start stirring.
Plastisol has a melting point around 325°. I don't use thermometer to get exact. No, the plaster mold will not melt. I use plaster for making leadheads and lead lure and lead has a melting point of 622°F.
Kind of. With this mold, you can only make the lure with flat tops/backs. However, here is the link to the video I made for creating full body molds with plaster. ruclips.net/video/GyCbagrI068/видео.html In this one, yes, you can make the lures you referred to, as well as all other full body plastic lures. Good luck and have fun!
It all depends on the size of the mold. When I'm doing 1 or just a couple 3-4" swimbaits or per mold, usually 1 - 1.25 cups of plaster will do for that size.
When I used pop and after my plastisol has cooked it has a dull look to my bait kinda like flat paint or no glossy. What went wrong or do I need to add something to the surface of the pop mold?
The nail polish is really just used as a way to "seal" the pop and prevent the cooking spray (release agent) from soaking into the pop. The pop is extremely porous, so it absorbs like no other. I am not 100% sold on that the plastics need to be shiny to get bit more. I rely on the bait's action and smell/taste. I do soak my plastics in a plastic bag with fish oil (Pro-Cure or others work) after trimming/before use. But, if you do NEED the baits to shine, there are 2 things you can do. 1. (more costly, but guaranteed to last) Make an ultra thin/watery batch of just pure clear plastisol and dip each finished plastic in and letting it drip dry. Then, once that clear overcoat dries, trim the hanging piece and that lure will now be shiny. You don't want it to be thick. Or. 2. (virtually free and what I do), you can use more cooking spray or food oil of some kind to the mold before pouring the plastic. Ultimately, it's the pop that is "absorbing" the shine of the plastisol. So as long as you make sure to "seal" the pop or make sure there is a layer of oil between the pop and the poured plastisol, you should get your shine. Also, another option would be to create the mold with a craft silicone. High temperature threshold, but more expensive. The silicone does not absorb at all 👍
Thanks for the video! Would this DAP Plaster of Paris work for casting decorative items that you'd place in your house? I would like to know if its fairly durable
Hi. Yes, it is very durable. You can use it for just about anything. I have seen some use the silicone molds and pour in the plaster to create a solid object. Then, make sure you follow the instructions and let cure for the proper amount of time to harden correctly. Then, I use clear coat nail polish to seal the plaster and add an extra layer of hardness to it. Then you can paint it or whatever you want. I still have lure molds from when my dad made then 20 - 30 years ago!!! They are not unbreakable, but def sturdy. Hope that helps ;-}
Yes, there are a few ways to do it. I prefer placing them on top so I can see exactly what the lure is doing. Once you pour on top, you lose visibility. The tail could come unglued, there could be a bubble pocket behind the tail - all of which can ruin the mold and have to start over.
You can use plaster (and non-hardening modeling clay in certain applications) to cast MANY things. But, if you looking to make your own jerkbaits, crankbaits, etc., I recommend Barlow's Tackle of course. This link is for all their plastic, wood, and brass lure blanks: barlowstackle.com/lure-making/lure-blanks/?afmc=zk They also have everything else you need to complete the DIY project.
I believe you are asking how much powder do I use? Until you are used to using plaster of paris, follow the instructions on the bag. After you have made a batch or 2, you start to get a feel for how you like to work with it. Then it's just a matter of more or less water to mix in. It all really depends on how thick or watery you want it and how big of a container you are using to create the mold.
Yes! I made a separate video specifically for full-body 2-piece plaster molds. ruclips.net/video/GyCbagrI068/видео.html You can also get Perfect Cast from Amazon. It is more expensive, but it's up to 5x stronger than regular plaster of paris.
If the lure has a flat back, then straight down. If the back is round or has other functionality (full body lure), I lay sideways and make it a 2-piece mold. I made a separate video on that a few months ago that you can watch.
Pour slower to just get the poured plastic about 1/16 - 1/8" above the mold, allowing for a little bit of shrinking. You can always trim the tail and sides. Def better to be thicker than to thin. If too thin, the tail will not have any real action. If only pouring 1 color, you can just take it out and put back in the liquid plastic to melt and repour.
I'll have to do a new video on the actual process of pouring the plastic. Until then, to answer your question, the nail polish is just to seal the plaster (filling the micro voids). I use PAM or any cheap cooking spray to add a very thin layer of oil so the plastic doesn't stick. I do this about every 5-6 pours. Lures come right out. Right after you remove the plastic lure, pit into ice cold water to quick cure it.
@moises Miguel For the plaster, I would let set/dry for at least 5-6 hours, if not more, before pouring the plastic. Less moisture in it, the better. For the plastic, I let sit for a about 3 minutes before removing from plaster mold, then dumping into ice water.
I decided not to do a video on the resin mold. It's much more costly compared to plaster. Basically, you take the lure you want to mold, glue it to the bottom of a plastic tray (you can't set it on the top like the plaster - it will sink), mix the fiberglass resin properly (buy at home depot, lowes or any home improvement store), pour and let sit for a few hours and done. I'd let cure for a couple days before use. It is VERY durable compared to basic plaster. BUT, as long as you seal the mold and take care of the plaster mold, it will last forever too - at a much lower cost compared to the resin.
Great video. Does the nail polish affect the smell of the bait and have an effect on the scent to the fish? I guess only the fish could answer that, right? .......but have you noticed any difference?
Ha. You're correct - only the fish know that. However, the nail polish is only to seal the mold. I spray Pam (or any cooking spray into the mold before I pour the plastic. That helps the plastic release from the mold better and also adds a little "flavor" to the lure too. But, I also soak my plastics in bags with sardine oil before use. The plastic smell is virtually gone by the time I use the bait. Yes, I do notice a difference in the amount of strikes I get from not soaking my lures first vs soaking. More for sure. There is actually a good (short) video on YT on underwater footage of halibut following/chasing a swimbait. It was crazy how many fish just followed/chased and then simply swam away. 1 retrieve and probably 5 or 6 followed without biting. It was crazy. I can only imagine how many strikes you potentially lose if the bait doesn't smell or swim properly.
Thanks for the reply. Appreciate your insight. Who knows how many strikes we miss and what little changes we can do on a bait to have an effect on that. Thanks again.
I use the MF Saltwater Plastic 7132SW. You can buy in 1 quart or 1 gallon bottles. I get mine from Barlow's Tackle online. You can also purchase directly from MF Manufacturing at pouryourownworkms dot com
There are several ways to do it. I just found that this way created the best mold for the flat top swimbaits. I have other videos for doing full-body 2-piece swimbait molds as well as one for hardbait molds starting with modeling clay. Go get 'em!
@moisesmiguel6915 - Are you asking about when I remove from the plaster mold? If so, I use a oil cooking spray (like PAM). I spray in the mold about every 4th or 5th pour to allow the plastic to come out easily.
Thanks for the question. I do not sell any of the baits I make. Strictly for my personal use only. But...that is why I made this and other "how-to" videos. When I make a bait that gets bit and retail is expensive, I'll make the video to help you and others save a bit of $$$. As for if they are "good enough" to sell - if the fish bite 'em, they're good enough in my book!
If you are going into the "business" of making plastics to sell, you can make prototypes with wood or clay. Then make a plaster mold with them. Then make some plastics to test from the plaster molds...got to make sure they catch fish of course. Then, once you have thousands of casts and hundreds if not thousands of catches with your own design, then work with a company to machine that lure into an aluminum mold. The aluminum works much better for maintaining a constant temperature - which is very key to making near flawless plastic lures. The slower the plastic cools, the less shrinking or contracting of the plastic you have. Hand-poured baits in plaster are super fast and work, but if you are making hand-poured lures for business, you need to do it right if you want to sell them. There are no cutting corners if you want to make it a business and do it right. Hope this helps.
This gave me a lot of needed info! I will definitely in time gain experience with this and I hope to become a top notch bait seller.( I’m 13 and am very ambitious)
@StartFishingToday Wow 👌 👏 😍 ! Name calling ! DAM.. . im in High School with the bully name calling again ! Guess You NOT the humor friendly type are you ? I see a whole mountain of plaster 2 bait mold in the corner there ? You must have been very busy on a lot of how to video for yourself ..... I see 👀 ? Practice make perfect boss ! You might want to go see a psycho-therapist if you NOT too busy on that 2 bait mold mount Everest ? 😉
Here we go!!! Those of you who comment on the stupidest, most unimportant aspects of every "how-to" video I post are annoying. Too much plaster? Too few plastics being molded in the plaster? WHO FREAKING CARES! Did you learn something? Did you find out an easier way to do something? Did it help you? Will it save you money? Most likely - the answer is YES! So stop wasting your time on the lame comments that don't help anyone! Be thankful and know in your mind that you COULD mold in more lures! I do for my own molds! If the video didn't help you, I'm not sorry! YES, every one of those molds makes me lures that get bit! Good thing you got me on a good day!
Yes, for this particular mold, the top will be flat - just like other name brand swimbaits. However, here is our link for making full-body molds with plaster. ruclips.net/video/GyCbagrI068/видео.html
I have tried that. The problem is that a plastic made from a real fish mold does not have any action when you retrieve. The plastic/artificial lures are made to have a tail that wobbles back and forth to make vibration in the water. That is what the live fish feel with their lateral line. So the more movement, the more likely a live fish will feel/hear it and bite it.
I recently pushed a new video out, showing a newer way to seal the plaster molds. The seal coat is more so you don't have to keep adding cooking spray or some type of oil after every couple of pours. The liquid plastic, over a few pours, will actually stick to the plaster and make it harder and harder to remove the lure after poured. So, I now use the gorilla glue 5 minute set epoxy instead. The nail polish lasts, but only for so long. The 2-part epoxy lasts and lasts. Plus, the seal/epoxy coat gives the lure a shiny fishing instead of plaster alone leaves the lure dull.
Very helpful. I use automotive clear coat for my fishing lure painting. I'm thinking it may be more durable than nail polish. Have you ever tried anything like that to seal your molds?
@Ed Deluthe Yes, but the nail polish is resin based, so it is much more durable and lasts longer with the heat of the melted plastic. Clear coat spray is not resin-based and does not withstand the heat of thr melted plastic. It peels off in my experience.
BEST VIDEO OUT THERE for making molds not a lotta people do this or tell the secrets video very helpful man !
EXCELLENT!!! Thank you for the compliment! Glad it helps!
Thank you for sharing! Tell your dad thanks, too. You saved me some trial and error.
Absolutely! I'm going to be posting a follow-up video to this soon with a MUCH better way to seal the plaster mold before use. Keep an eye out for it 😉
I did this today, came out perfect.. i inserted 3 tiny pieces of wire into the tails so they stayed straight and true.
YES!!! Now, GO GET SOME! Yeeewwww!
Game changer, thanks man.
Yeeeewwwww!
Thank you for all your hard work.
Good produkt.
Cheers m8.
Yeeewww! 👍
Very useful video .thank you
Excellent! Glad it helped you.
Thanks for sharing this with us dude!!!
Sure. No problem. Thanks for watching!
Excellent
Thank you! Stay tuned. More coming!
Thanks I was thinking about this earlier today and stumbled on your video thanks for your info and tricks
AWESOME!!! Hope it helps. More "How-To" videos to come soon.
Greetings and thanks for the terrific videos! Can or should the nail polish sealing process be done with the jig head lead pour molds as well?
No. Don't use any sealer for any lead mold with plaster. The melting point for the plastisol is low enough for the seal coat. With lead having a 624° melting point, it will simply melt the seal coat and stick to the plaster, destroying the mold. The plaster needs to be completely dry of moisture or other material or the lead will blow/pop. No good!
On this session, the fish were generally farther out, so I was using a 1/2oz. If they're generally closer, I'll use a 1/4oz on my UL setup.
@@StartFishingTodayThanks for the insight and speedy response!😉
Absolutely! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing. I just picked up my plaster and going to attempt this method. One question. Is the nail polish coating absolutely need and if so will it not alter the original shape of mold? Thanks once again
The clear coat finish isn't 100% needed, but it sure makes a huge difference. I actually published a new video for this showing that I use 5-minute epoxy for the finish. It's much easier and more permanent application. No more spraying oil on the mold as a separating agent. Every plastic comes out easy and shiny.
@ thank you much. What oil spray do you recommend if I do take that route?
If you decide NOT to finish with the epoxy, you can use any cooking spray and reapply every couple pours. The cheap stuff is fine. @@enrique-uz8qx
Great stuff!!
Thank you!!!
Have you tried Pledge Floor Wax, it's pure acrylic. I paint board game figures thinning the acrylic paint with a 50/50 mixture of Floor Wax to water. When done, a few coats of just the 50/50 mixture to get a good seal on the finished coat. My guess is, it would fill any pours, smooth the surface.
I have not! Great idea. I may try that the next time...depending on cost.
@@StartFishingToday About $6.29, I have had one bottle for years. It is floor wax so, doesn't work, use it there. I would use a respiratory mask, I paint 6 foot Halloween skeletons with this stuff, other Halloween props.
I use magic wash, 50/50, for washing, and as I say, as a substitute for thinning Acrylic paints. I used it almost straight from the bottle to glue on Martian helmets for a board game. It didn't cloud the clear helmets like glue.
m.ruclips.net/video/gR3aIAth5qU/видео.html
Really nice gud!❤
Thank you!
What material are You using for softbaits in plaster molds?
Plastisol. You can see all the materials I use on my Storefront on my website: startfishingtoday.com/storefront/
Awesome video!
Thank you and thanks for watching/the comment!
@@StartFishingToday I really found your video very informative, I’m starting a business and couldn’t find a good mold making video until I came across your channel. I could now bring my lure sketch into reality, THANK YOU!
Also looking forward to your next RUclips video!
@@davidsalinas780 Awesome! Also, when u get the lures right/exactly how u want them with the plaster of paris, you can actually get what is called Perfect Cast from Amazon. This plaster is advertised as 5x stronger than regular plaster. I would mold the "perfect" lure u make with that, then send them in to be cast aluminum.
what kind of substance is that at 11:10 please
That is clear nail polish. However, since this video was made, I changed the finish coat to a 2-part epoxy clear coat. Here is a more recent video with me finishing the mold with epoxy: ruclips.net/video/UR059_ImnMc/видео.html
'm thinking of adding the cap of a silicone bottle as the injection port, then I could just squeeze ordinary silicone into it for tests etc.
You do whatever you want 👍😉. Yeeewww!
but thatnks for the idea.... I think I have evrything I need to try
@@StartFishingToday
What if you want to do this for a lure like the strike king rage bug? Will it work for baits like that? Where both sides are important? Or is this technique only good for paddletail softbaits?
You can, but not with this "single-side" plaster mold. You need to do it with a 2-side mold and use an injector. Watch this video: ruclips.net/video/GyCbagrI068/видео.html
@@StartFishingToday Thanks for the link! Do you think it is also possible to make a 2 sided silicone Mold for handpouring softbaits like this?
Yes. Silicone is just a more costly material.
Amazing video. New sub
THANK YOU!!!
Looks simple enough for me..
The clear coat doesn't effect the baits detail at all?
I'll actually push another video live here soon, showing an improved way of fishing the mold. But, to answer your question, no. It doesn't mess up the finish. It actually allows for a more natural, shiny(er) finish as the plaster itself leaves the plastic dull when it's removed of no clear coat is added.
@@StartFishingToday ahh👍
Think I'm going to give this a try today
Do it!!!
How did you get rid of the bubbles when you pour the plastic in on the top it seems to rise up when I’m pouring
Hi. There are a couple things you can do. First, and most expensive (but most efficient), is you can get a vacuum chamber for degassing the plastisol (amzn.to/3Tw3k7X) or, alternatively, you can use a heat gun to keep the plastic more fluid - allowing all the bubbles to rise to the surface. Again, I do not sell my plastics, so I don't even worry about the small bubbles. I donlt find that they get less bites compared to zero bubbles. Bubbles are going to happen no matter what the moment you start stirring.
How hot do u melt the soft bsit to poor in the mold and will the mold melt it self
Plastisol has a melting point around 325°. I don't use thermometer to get exact. No, the plaster mold will not melt. I use plaster for making leadheads and lead lure and lead has a melting point of 622°F.
Where can I get the materials other than the plaster of Paris!. The lure materials are what I am interested in getting!.
www.barlowstackle.com?afmc=STARTFISHINGTODAY
Thank you in advance!
Using this technique, could you cast other types of lures like burner worms for example or Twister tails?
Kind of. With this mold, you can only make the lure with flat tops/backs. However, here is the link to the video I made for creating full body molds with plaster. ruclips.net/video/GyCbagrI068/видео.html
In this one, yes, you can make the lures you referred to, as well as all other full body plastic lures. Good luck and have fun!
About how much of the plaster do you use on each mold?
It all depends on the size of the mold. When I'm doing 1 or just a couple 3-4" swimbaits or per mold, usually 1 - 1.25 cups of plaster will do for that size.
When I used pop and after my plastisol has cooked it has a dull look to my bait kinda like flat paint or no glossy. What went wrong or do I need to add something to the surface of the pop mold?
I watched again and I forgot about the nail polish. So doing this will that stop the dull look of my baits?
The nail polish is really just used as a way to "seal" the pop and prevent the cooking spray (release agent) from soaking into the pop. The pop is extremely porous, so it absorbs like no other. I am not 100% sold on that the plastics need to be shiny to get bit more. I rely on the bait's action and smell/taste. I do soak my plastics in a plastic bag with fish oil (Pro-Cure or others work) after trimming/before use. But, if you do NEED the baits to shine, there are 2 things you can do. 1. (more costly, but guaranteed to last) Make an ultra thin/watery batch of just pure clear plastisol and dip each finished plastic in and letting it drip dry. Then, once that clear overcoat dries, trim the hanging piece and that lure will now be shiny. You don't want it to be thick. Or. 2. (virtually free and what I do), you can use more cooking spray or food oil of some kind to the mold before pouring the plastic. Ultimately, it's the pop that is "absorbing" the shine of the plastisol. So as long as you make sure to "seal" the pop or make sure there is a layer of oil between the pop and the poured plastisol, you should get your shine. Also, another option would be to create the mold with a craft silicone. High temperature threshold, but more expensive. The silicone does not absorb at all 👍
Thanks for the video! Would this DAP Plaster of Paris work for casting decorative items that you'd place in your house? I would like to know if its fairly durable
Hi. Yes, it is very durable. You can use it for just about anything. I have seen some use the silicone molds and pour in the plaster to create a solid object. Then, make sure you follow the instructions and let cure for the proper amount of time to harden correctly. Then, I use clear coat nail polish to seal the plaster and add an extra layer of hardness to it. Then you can paint it or whatever you want. I still have lure molds from when my dad made then 20 - 30 years ago!!! They are not unbreakable, but def sturdy. Hope that helps ;-}
Great video ! I find if you use a white glue stick it's good enough to hold the lure in place
Yes, there are a few ways to do it. I prefer placing them on top so I can see exactly what the lure is doing. Once you pour on top, you lose visibility. The tail could come unglued, there could be a bubble pocket behind the tail - all of which can ruin the mold and have to start over.
@StartFishingToday Thats a very good point ! Have you tried molding hard lures ? I'd love to see how you remove a hard lure
Could you elaborate a little more so I am sure to understand your request?
@StartFishingToday Sorry , I'm curious if you can use this method to cast jerkbaits , crankbaits , glidebaits and such .
You can use plaster (and non-hardening modeling clay in certain applications) to cast MANY things. But, if you looking to make your own jerkbaits, crankbaits, etc., I recommend Barlow's Tackle of course.
This link is for all their plastic, wood, and brass lure blanks: barlowstackle.com/lure-making/lure-blanks/?afmc=zk
They also have everything else you need to complete the DIY project.
Hey question how much do if the powder do u put
I believe you are asking how much powder do I use? Until you are used to using plaster of paris, follow the instructions on the bag. After you have made a batch or 2, you start to get a feel for how you like to work with it. Then it's just a matter of more or less water to mix in. It all really depends on how thick or watery you want it and how big of a container you are using to create the mold.
Does the plaster get hard enough to make it a inject mold and be clamped together?
Yes! I made a separate video specifically for full-body 2-piece plaster molds.
ruclips.net/video/GyCbagrI068/видео.html
You can also get Perfect Cast from Amazon. It is more expensive, but it's up to 5x stronger than regular plaster of paris.
Are you setting the baits sideways or straight down
If the lure has a flat back, then straight down. If the back is round or has other functionality (full body lure), I lay sideways and make it a 2-piece mold. I made a separate video on that a few months ago that you can watch.
What if i pour too much plastic? How do i get it to stay to the shape of the mold? Scrape it or tear it? Just trash it?
Pour slower to just get the poured plastic about 1/16 - 1/8" above the mold, allowing for a little bit of shrinking. You can always trim the tail and sides. Def better to be thicker than to thin. If too thin, the tail will not have any real action. If only pouring 1 color, you can just take it out and put back in the liquid plastic to melt and repour.
@@StartFishingToday thanks
Does the nail polish avoid the bait from being ripped apart? In order for it to come out smoothly
I'll have to do a new video on the actual process of pouring the plastic. Until then, to answer your question, the nail polish is just to seal the plaster (filling the micro voids). I use PAM or any cheap cooking spray to add a very thin layer of oil so the plastic doesn't stick. I do this about every 5-6 pours. Lures come right out. Right after you remove the plastic lure, pit into ice cold water to quick cure it.
@@StartFishingToday you wait 5-6 hours for a other batch or for the lures to set?
@moises Miguel For the plaster, I would let set/dry for at least 5-6 hours, if not more, before pouring the plastic. Less moisture in it, the better. For the plastic, I let sit for a about 3 minutes before removing from plaster mold, then dumping into ice water.
@@StartFishingToday by any chance do you know any companies that sell stiff/tough plastisol?
@moises Miguel I buy mine from BarlowsTackle.com. I use the MF saltwater formula (pink label) with a separate bottle of Heat Stabilizer.
You just hit 300!! I was your 300th sub!
Thank you! Much appreciated and thanks for watching!
What is the name of the second part of the video
Are you referring to making the resin molds?
@ yeah
I decided not to do a video on the resin mold. It's much more costly compared to plaster. Basically, you take the lure you want to mold, glue it to the bottom of a plastic tray (you can't set it on the top like the plaster - it will sink), mix the fiberglass resin properly (buy at home depot, lowes or any home improvement store), pour and let sit for a few hours and done. I'd let cure for a couple days before use. It is VERY durable compared to basic plaster. BUT, as long as you seal the mold and take care of the plaster mold, it will last forever too - at a much lower cost compared to the resin.
Great video. Does the nail polish affect the smell of the bait and have an effect on the scent to the fish? I guess only the fish could answer that, right? .......but have you noticed any difference?
Ha. You're correct - only the fish know that. However, the nail polish is only to seal the mold. I spray Pam (or any cooking spray into the mold before I pour the plastic. That helps the plastic release from the mold better and also adds a little "flavor" to the lure too. But, I also soak my plastics in bags with sardine oil before use. The plastic smell is virtually gone by the time I use the bait.
Yes, I do notice a difference in the amount of strikes I get from not soaking my lures first vs soaking. More for sure.
There is actually a good (short) video on YT on underwater footage of halibut following/chasing a swimbait. It was crazy how many fish just followed/chased and then simply swam away. 1 retrieve and probably 5 or 6 followed without biting. It was crazy. I can only imagine how many strikes you potentially lose if the bait doesn't smell or swim properly.
Thanks for the reply. Appreciate your insight. Who knows how many strikes we miss and what little changes we can do on a bait to have an effect on that. Thanks again.
Whats the plastic you use
MF Liquid Plastic (I use Saltwater formula):
barlowstackle.com/MF-Liquid-Plastic/?afmc=po
what name liquid for create softlure
I use the MF Saltwater Plastic 7132SW. You can buy in 1 quart or 1 gallon bottles. I get mine from Barlow's Tackle online. You can also purchase directly from MF Manufacturing at pouryourownworkms dot com
You could suspend the blank and pour around it,obviously not ideal with plastic molds,but hardbaits is the way to go.
There are several ways to do it. I just found that this way created the best mold for the flat top swimbaits. I have other videos for doing full-body 2-piece swimbait molds as well as one for hardbait molds starting with modeling clay. Go get 'em!
How do you avoid getting the tail ripped off?
@moisesmiguel6915 - Are you asking about when I remove from the plaster mold? If so, I use a oil cooking spray (like PAM). I spray in the mold about every 4th or 5th pour to allow the plastic to come out easily.
Do you sell these? Like, are they good enough to quality to sell?
Thanks for the question. I do not sell any of the baits I make. Strictly for my personal use only. But...that is why I made this and other "how-to" videos. When I make a bait that gets bit and retail is expensive, I'll make the video to help you and others save a bit of $$$. As for if they are "good enough" to sell - if the fish bite 'em, they're good enough in my book!
Kk! I’m starting up a lure shop and I’m trying to save a lot of money. At least until I can get good molds and stuff.
If you are going into the "business" of making plastics to sell, you can make prototypes with wood or clay. Then make a plaster mold with them. Then make some plastics to test from the plaster molds...got to make sure they catch fish of course. Then, once you have thousands of casts and hundreds if not thousands of catches with your own design, then work with a company to machine that lure into an aluminum mold. The aluminum works much better for maintaining a constant temperature - which is very key to making near flawless plastic lures. The slower the plastic cools, the less shrinking or contracting of the plastic you have. Hand-poured baits in plaster are super fast and work, but if you are making hand-poured lures for business, you need to do it right if you want to sell them. There are no cutting corners if you want to make it a business and do it right. Hope this helps.
This gave me a lot of needed info! I will definitely in time gain experience with this and I hope to become a top notch bait seller.( I’m 13 and am very ambitious)
There's enough mold materials there for atleast 5-6 bait on there ! Nobody goes through all that trouble to mold 2 bait at a time ! 😂
It's a "how-to" video dork! Oh, and it's plaster. Where's the trouble?
@StartFishingToday
Wow 👌 👏 😍 ! Name calling ! DAM.. . im in High School with the bully name calling again ! Guess You NOT the humor friendly type are you ? I see a whole mountain of plaster 2 bait mold in the corner there ? You must have been very busy on a lot of how to video for yourself ..... I see 👀 ? Practice make perfect boss !
You might want to go see a psycho-therapist if you NOT too busy on that 2 bait mold mount Everest ? 😉
Here we go!!! Those of you who comment on the stupidest, most unimportant aspects of every "how-to" video I post are annoying. Too much plaster? Too few plastics being molded in the plaster? WHO FREAKING CARES! Did you learn something? Did you find out an easier way to do something? Did it help you? Will it save you money? Most likely - the answer is YES! So stop wasting your time on the lame comments that don't help anyone! Be thankful and know in your mind that you COULD mold in more lures! I do for my own molds! If the video didn't help you, I'm not sorry! YES, every one of those molds makes me lures that get bit!
Good thing you got me on a good day!
Won’t the whole top side just be flat ?
Yes, for this particular mold, the top will be flat - just like other name brand swimbaits. However, here is our link for making full-body molds with plaster. ruclips.net/video/GyCbagrI068/видео.html
All you need is to put the fish in soft clay first, use modify real frozen fish for model
I have tried that. The problem is that a plastic made from a real fish mold does not have any action when you retrieve. The plastic/artificial lures are made to have a tail that wobbles back and forth to make vibration in the water. That is what the live fish feel with their lateral line. So the more movement, the more likely a live fish will feel/hear it and bite it.
Do you need the nail polish
I recently pushed a new video out, showing a newer way to seal the plaster molds. The seal coat is more so you don't have to keep adding cooking spray or some type of oil after every couple of pours. The liquid plastic, over a few pours, will actually stick to the plaster and make it harder and harder to remove the lure after poured. So, I now use the gorilla glue 5 minute set epoxy instead. The nail polish lasts, but only for so long. The 2-part epoxy lasts and lasts. Plus, the seal/epoxy coat gives the lure a shiny fishing instead of plaster alone leaves the lure dull.
You seem to be using a lot of nail polish. Doesn't it puddle in the mold?
Nope. The plaster is very porous. it soaks in. It is only used to fill the micro open holes.
Very helpful. I use automotive clear coat for my fishing lure painting. I'm thinking it may be more durable than nail polish. Have you ever tried anything like that to seal your molds?
@Ed Deluthe Yes, but the nail polish is resin based, so it is much more durable and lasts longer with the heat of the melted plastic. Clear coat spray is not resin-based and does not withstand the heat of thr melted plastic. It peels off in my experience.
@@StartFishingToday Thank you much. Gonna give it a try.
@@eddeluthe5131 Perfect! Enjoy!