Just did my spare tire well, all 4 wheel liners, all four doors. Made a huge difference. Car was already quiet but this just made it super quiet. 2013 Mercedes s550. With the windows up. I can barely hear cars driving past me. Car now weighs an additional 35ilbs but the trade off is well worth it.
What trade-off? You really think those extra 35lbs are doing anything lmfao? That's like having a weekend bag in your trunk and thinking it's going to destroy your gas mileage....
ProTip: Lead radioactive shielding is amazing at stopping lower frequencies. 3 millimeter Sheets of Lead Radioactive Shielding (think heavy vest put over you during X-ray) Sandwiched between two layers of 80 mil butyl foil backed sheets in the wheel well. Heavy. But really works for tire noise. **Also micro glass beads cut from weighted blankets going in between two layers of butyl sheeting was another way I added mass.
This sounds familiar, I had a consult with a sound system company, and their price included sound-deadening technology. He specifically explained that diesel cars are difficult to work with because diesel generates more noise than petrol engines. I like bass in my music, not so much loud. I will see how it goes. The heavy thunk sound of expensive cars is more about build quality not just insulation. Good information, thanks!
Yes. It's a waste of money mainly because too many Sellers are selling cheap material and are misinforming (or deceiving) people on what the material can accomplish and how to use the product. Most Sellers are not advising that the solution must be applied in stages with different material. From my experience I find that the vehicle already shut out most of the noise. It's the structural noise from the tires and the engine that is hard to keep out. If you can afford a newer car that's the best way to a quieter cabin.
@@Mitutumuch you need to specify the exact materials and the stages to use in from your experience. From my experience and research no cheap material can insulate a vehicle cabin from the strong engine and tire noise. You need to include expensive material like MLV. And high quality butyl material which is costly. I notice the high quality butyl mats also have some heat insulation properties that the cheap ones do not have.
I have used all the brands of sound deadening. Kilmat, Siless, SecondSkin, Dynamat and most recently Amazon Basics as it has a great Black Friday price. They all do the same job. I found some stick better than others but as long as your surface is cleaned amd prepped properly, it won't be am issue.
Making a vehicle quieter is definitely a science. My best advice is to listen to where the noise is coming from and then do that area. Once that area is quiet you'll have a new source of noise that you can attack. It's true that the lower frequencies are the most difficult to reduce, but even reductions in the 1k to 10k range can definitely make the vehicle quieter and more pleasant. I can't comment on the cheaper brands of material. Since the installation is the most difficult and time-consuming part, I chose to not take any chances so I used the best and expensive materials.
@@JasonWW2000that's what I trying to do, I listen where the sound come from, almost all noise are from wheels. I tried add insulation inside wheel arch front and rear, it did make different but still have low frequency noise until I do the doors. I tried the hood, the engine become quieter. I think floor are unnecessary that's what carpet do.
I would love to add some sound insulation to my car but I dread the idea of taking apart my doors. I don't even know how to take the carpet off the floor.
Like Derek said, if you have airbags or pretensioners connected to your seats and you plan on removing the seats from the vehicle, then definitely disconnect the battery. Otherwise, there's no need to disconnect it.
Most people will not care about sound deadening and some who don't know much about cars may even steer away from your car because they think you've modified it
People dont care about it until their educated on it. If someone sat in a car with sound deadening and good audio they would fall in love without knowing what it is. It plays an important role, we see this in higher end luxury cars.
can't do much. I heard window tint helps with vibrations, but probably not a lot for insulation besides UV ray transfer or whatever New cars come with double pane windows and better window seal clearances though, so they're fine
As long as the material itself is decently warm so that it is flexible, the instalation should go well. If the material is really cold it's going to be stiff and hard to work with.
Have you applied that sound dampening material to the bottom of the car rather than under the carpet, and is it a good idea to apply it under the car or could it cause damage or even be unsafe to do so ? Would it even stick to the under side ?
That is usually not recommended. It is not usually a flat surface underneath the floor which makes installation difficult. The water and other elements are likely to cause it to fall off. You're also unlikely to get clean metal for it to stick to because there's usually dirt, grease or undercoating applied. For a floor application you're going to want to pull out the seats and carpet. Do the tap test and listen for ringing and you only need to put the material in those locations. I was able to apply it in my vehicle in the front driver and passenger footwell area just by removing the side trim and lifting up the carpet. I'm not sure you would need to actually add damping material to the sheet metal directly under the seat.
Don't start from floor, I had tried so many cars it doesn't make big difference. Start from wheel arch front plastic and rear inside metal. Do the door afterwards and hood it make big difference.
I’m always looking for an ultimate isolation / relaxation cruiser and much prefer a quiet car. Having recently becoming an ev owner, i realize a lot of the nvh comes from the droning engine. I also love acoustic side windows. They make such a big difference. Is there a simple method to reduce tire and wind noise?
I agree with the acoustic windows, they do make a difference! Tire noise is something that depends on the tire. You can buy tires that create very little road noise but sometimes they put fuel efficient tires on ev’s and they are sometimes noisier than high mileage tires. You can also spray some sound deadening products in the wheel well to drown out some road noise if the tires are not the issue.
I believe it can be done but may cost since you must get the right material. I would love to know how effective an mlv layer over foam would be on tire noise if only the floor is completely covered. Wind is tougher to keep out but ensure the door and window seals are good. The general guideline to keep out sound is to create a "room within a room". Same way a vault inside a bank keeps out robbers materials designed for sound insulation will "lock out" sound from outside the car including structural noise from the tires and engine
It all depends if the drone noise is a vibration coming up through the metal and into the truck making a resonance. If that is the case then yes it would definitely help with illuminating vibrational noise.
Exhaust drone is typically due to the style of muffler and if it's pointing down and reflecting off the ground. You probably need to modify the exhaust to make it not drone.
Customer: "You sound deadened my car huh? Come over here. Lemme show you something. Put your head right there and listen...*BOP* Soundproof Guide: *4 hours later at the hospital* "Where am I?" Nurse: "🙄🙄🙄🙄"
1 Reason Why Sound Deadening in a car I'm about to purchase will lower its value to ME: If the interior or any other part of the vehicle has been 'torn down', you're in a world of unknown as to how many OE fasteners and other components they've broken and/or not replaced. NO one does it right so now it's more than twice as much work to undo (remove any bitumen adhesives?) and repair what the last owner did before you even begin to do the job properly - this time with the correct materials, too. 😆
@@T8ersalad No. I was broadly saying bitument is OK but that is what is difficult to remove, and you'd be removing it because the owner may have installed an inferior bitumen resonance dampening product or omited it altogether before installing the [correct quality] thermo-lining. I use Dodo Mat products. DEADN Hex Pro Silver deadener (approx 45% coverage), Thermo-liner 6mm+ (approx 95%+ coverage), and to fill the voids over the top of that before reinstalling the interior panel trim, PET plastic Dacron wadding - not too tightly packed, as most of the deadening and insulating is done with the first 2 stages.
And also the wadding for the strengthening beams. You have to poke that through twine-tied to a length of electrical cable and with a long philips screwdriver(?) and fingers...
Only in the wheel well and only because the Lead was free.. I am putting down 80mil butyl foil backed noise dampening product and then sandwiching 3 millimeter thick Lead sheets of radioactive shielding to be covered by 50 mil butyl foil sheet over top to hold it in place as one piece. Lol. And then carpet goes overtop all of it in the wheel well for aesthetics.
I took apart my whole interior and yes a couple clips broke but I anticipated that and ordered a kit of various replacement fasteners/clips off Amazon. Everything went back together as it was supposed to.
Just did my spare tire well, all 4 wheel liners, all four doors. Made a huge difference. Car was already quiet but this just made it super quiet. 2013 Mercedes s550. With the windows up. I can barely hear cars driving past me. Car now weighs an additional 35ilbs but the trade off is well worth it.
Toyota corolla, front plastic wheel arch, rear inside wheel arch(remove rear seat), 4 doors and hood. Good enough
What trade-off? You really think those extra 35lbs are doing anything lmfao? That's like having a weekend bag in your trunk and thinking it's going to destroy your gas mileage....
ProTip: Lead radioactive shielding is amazing at stopping lower frequencies. 3 millimeter Sheets of Lead Radioactive Shielding (think heavy vest put over you during X-ray) Sandwiched between two layers of 80 mil butyl foil backed sheets in the wheel well. Heavy. But really works for tire noise. **Also micro glass beads cut from weighted blankets going in between two layers of butyl sheeting was another way I added mass.
Eclipse gsx came with like zero sound deadening major major difference
Don't do the floor first, start from wheel arch and door.
On the lookout for your tutorials on doing the doors, floor, trunk, and hood :) I would love to install some dynamat in my 2020 Subaru.
I made one for the truck and hood. Go check them out! 😊
This sounds familiar, I had a consult with a sound system company, and their price included sound-deadening technology. He specifically explained that diesel cars are difficult to work with because diesel generates more noise than petrol engines. I like bass in my music, not so much loud. I will see how it goes. The heavy thunk sound of expensive cars is more about build quality not just insulation. Good information, thanks!
Yes. It's a waste of money mainly because too many Sellers are selling cheap material and are misinforming (or deceiving) people on what the material can accomplish and how to use the product. Most Sellers are not advising that the solution must be applied in stages with different material. From my experience I find that the vehicle already shut out most of the noise. It's the structural noise from the tires and the engine that is hard to keep out. If you can afford a newer car that's the best way to a quieter cabin.
costs like 100 bucks. andyoull get same results. materials exactly the same. the cheap material is same material dealers use.
@@Mitutumuch you need to specify the exact materials and the stages to use in from your experience. From my experience and research no cheap material can insulate a vehicle cabin from the strong engine and tire noise. You need to include expensive material like MLV. And high quality butyl material which is costly. I notice the high quality butyl mats also have some heat insulation properties that the cheap ones do not have.
I have used all the brands of sound deadening. Kilmat, Siless, SecondSkin, Dynamat and most recently Amazon Basics as it has a great Black Friday price. They all do the same job. I found some stick better than others but as long as your surface is cleaned amd prepped properly, it won't be am issue.
Making a vehicle quieter is definitely a science. My best advice is to listen to where the noise is coming from and then do that area. Once that area is quiet you'll have a new source of noise that you can attack.
It's true that the lower frequencies are the most difficult to reduce, but even reductions in the 1k to 10k range can definitely make the vehicle quieter and more pleasant.
I can't comment on the cheaper brands of material. Since the installation is the most difficult and time-consuming part, I chose to not take any chances so I used the best and expensive materials.
@@JasonWW2000that's what I trying to do, I listen where the sound come from, almost all noise are from wheels. I tried add insulation inside wheel arch front and rear, it did make different but still have low frequency noise until I do the doors. I tried the hood, the engine become quieter. I think floor are unnecessary that's what carpet do.
I would love to add some sound insulation to my car but I dread the idea of taking apart my doors. I don't even know how to take the carpet off the floor.
There are many vids showing you all of that on RUclips but I’ll be making one for the doors in the near future so look for that!
Good info
do i need to remove negative battery to install sound deadening to car floor?
May require engine pullout when applying.
I would just to be safe, just remember to bleed down your capacitors and clear your history codes.
Is this a joke??
You can disconnect battery if you want. I'd recommend it especially since you'll be unplugging airbags etc when you remove the seats etc
Like Derek said, if you have airbags or pretensioners connected to your seats and you plan on removing the seats from the vehicle, then definitely disconnect the battery. Otherwise, there's no need to disconnect it.
Most people will not care about sound deadening and some who don't know much about cars may even steer away from your car because they think you've modified it
People dont care about it until their educated on it. If someone sat in a car with sound deadening and good audio they would fall in love without knowing what it is. It plays an important role, we see this in higher end luxury cars.
How do you sound deadening and cold weather insulation for the window glass? I am using my SUV for overland camping.
can't do much. I heard window tint helps with vibrations, but probably not a lot for insulation besides UV ray transfer or whatever
New cars come with double pane windows and better window seal clearances though, so they're fine
Unless with double layer glass like top trim S-class.
What’s surround sound?
Hello bro can we do sound deadener (Damping) in winter i am little bit confused, summer or winter.???
It will likely stick better and be easier to work with in Spring or summer when it's warm out.
As long as the material itself is decently warm so that it is flexible, the instalation should go well. If the material is really cold it's going to be stiff and hard to work with.
Have you applied that sound dampening material to the bottom of the car rather than under the carpet, and is it a good idea to apply it under the car or could it cause damage or even be unsafe to do so ?
Would it even stick to the under side ?
That is usually not recommended. It is not usually a flat surface underneath the floor which makes installation difficult. The water and other elements are likely to cause it to fall off. You're also unlikely to get clean metal for it to stick to because there's usually dirt, grease or undercoating applied. For a floor application you're going to want to pull out the seats and carpet. Do the tap test and listen for ringing and you only need to put the material in those locations.
I was able to apply it in my vehicle in the front driver and passenger footwell area just by removing the side trim and lifting up the carpet. I'm not sure you would need to actually add damping material to the sheet metal directly under the seat.
@@JasonWW2000 : I appreciate that, thank you.
Don't start from floor, I had tried so many cars it doesn't make big difference. Start from wheel arch front plastic and rear inside metal. Do the door afterwards and hood it make big difference.
@@GF-mf7ml : thank you very much.
Do you have or could you make a quick video showing where you applied it?
never consider that, even it it did stick, you have the potential to trap moisture.
I just used a roll of ice and water shield lol
what happens to your right upper brow sir??
The problem with most cars is that the bottom of the trunk is carpeted except the spare tire area. So should we pull the carpet off?
Most cars? I don't think so. Most cars you lift the carpet and there's bare metal there.
Yes, the carpet should be easily removable.
I’m always looking for an ultimate isolation / relaxation cruiser and much prefer a quiet car. Having recently becoming an ev owner, i realize a lot of the nvh comes from the droning engine. I also love acoustic side windows. They make such a big difference.
Is there a simple method to reduce tire and wind noise?
I agree with the acoustic windows, they do make a difference! Tire noise is something that depends on the tire. You can buy tires that create very little road noise but sometimes they put fuel efficient tires on ev’s and they are sometimes noisier than high mileage tires. You can also spray some sound deadening products in the wheel well to drown out some road noise if the tires are not the issue.
I believe it can be done but may cost since you must get the right material. I would love to know how effective an mlv layer over foam would be on tire noise if only the floor is completely covered. Wind is tougher to keep out but ensure the door and window seals are good.
The general guideline to keep out sound is to create a "room within a room". Same way a vault inside a bank keeps out robbers materials designed for sound insulation will "lock out" sound from outside the car including structural noise from the tires and engine
What if i want to kill the exhaust drone? Do I put the sound deadening in the trunk?
It all depends if the drone noise is a vibration coming up through the metal and into the truck making a resonance. If that is the case then yes it would definitely help with illuminating vibrational noise.
Exhaust drone is typically due to the style of muffler and if it's pointing down and reflecting off the ground. You probably need to modify the exhaust to make it not drone.
Keep safe and always wear a seat belt
Customer: "You sound deadened my car huh? Come over here. Lemme show you something. Put your head right there and listen...*BOP*
Soundproof Guide: *4 hours later at the hospital* "Where am I?"
Nurse: "🙄🙄🙄🙄"
1 Reason Why Sound Deadening in a car I'm about to purchase will lower its value to ME:
If the interior or any other part of the vehicle has been 'torn down', you're in a world of unknown as to how many OE fasteners and other components they've broken and/or not replaced. NO one does it right so now it's more than twice as much work to undo (remove any bitumen adhesives?) and repair what the last owner did before you even begin to do the job properly - this time with the correct materials, too. 😆
Your saying bitumen is incorrect and butyl is correct material?
@@T8ersalad No. I was broadly saying bitument is OK but that is what is difficult to remove, and you'd be removing it because the owner may have installed an inferior bitumen resonance dampening product or omited it altogether before installing the [correct quality] thermo-lining. I use Dodo Mat products. DEADN Hex Pro Silver deadener (approx 45% coverage), Thermo-liner 6mm+ (approx 95%+ coverage), and to fill the voids over the top of that before reinstalling the interior panel trim, PET plastic Dacron wadding - not too tightly packed, as most of the deadening and insulating is done with the first 2 stages.
And also the wadding for the strengthening beams. You have to poke that through twine-tied to a length of electrical cable and with a long philips screwdriver(?) and fingers...
Only in the wheel well and only because the Lead was free.. I am putting down 80mil butyl foil backed noise dampening product and then sandwiching 3 millimeter thick Lead sheets of radioactive shielding to be covered by 50 mil butyl foil sheet over top to hold it in place as one piece. Lol. And then carpet goes overtop all of it in the wheel well for aesthetics.
I took apart my whole interior and yes a couple clips broke but I anticipated that and ordered a kit of various replacement fasteners/clips off Amazon. Everything went back together as it was supposed to.
BLA BLA BLA BLA GET TO THE WHERE AND HOW.