I cannot find one! Would you recommend the material to replace the film between the door panel and the door for better soundproofing? I saw this improvement in soundproofing materials. I want to cut and glue it myself instead of the plastic film. Thank you.
On your comment of insulating the floor of the car, I just put standard house floor underpadding underneath the carpet in a cheap econobox. It was so effective people actually would comment on how quite the car was.
The issue there might be - if its not waterproof, it’ll absorb liquids (inevitably- spills, rain, washing) the material grows mold & bacteria which will smell.
The sun effect is interesting for sure… having an all black interior that noticeably gets hotter the LITERAL SECOND the AC turns off full blast on a hot sunny day. This sounds interesting.
I have an 'entry level' vehicle for getting about and yes, it's quite noisy. Thinking that it's not good for my hearing. Been on my mind off and on for a long time to insulate it than it has. This video has spurred me on. Remember: No project's too big to start! 😂😢😂
You don’t need to cover the whole panel. Just 50% or even much less will already do most of the work. Search for sound deadening on YT and look for a video of ‘car builders - sound and heat’ from 5 years ago for a great example.
really great overview of different areas. The only thing I'd add is specifically in hatchbacks I have found doing the "trunk" area can make a huge difference since it's really inside the cabin vs. the mostly uselessness of doing the trunk in a sedan.
Also look under the back seat. My mk3 golf has no sound prodding under there. Throughly is I’m waiting for some welding to done so can’t start doing anything until it’s sorted or it will get stripped again.
My 2022 Kona N-line Ultimate has a lot of noise coming from the rear trunk area and rear wheel wells. Hoping to dampen that for better conversation with rear passengers, and for the Harmon Karden player.
uselessness? Both my large sedans trunks are deadened with 500 mil of material because both have 36hz tuned dual subboxes pushing 2000rms 3200peak. My license plates are deadened they'd vibrate so much, same as the trunk. Not sure what world you're living in, apparently in one where you don't run subs in the trunk. My sedans are tuned better than your tin can hatchback could ever be.
I kept my late husband in the trunk and the ride became soooo much more pleasurable and the sound changed dramatically. Had to remove him when decomposition started. Seriously.
Trunk is most important due to subwoofers rattling the sheet metal. If you don't have a subwoofer then I guess you only need to focus on isolating the trunk from the interior compartment. Also, what do you mean by TLDR? This is a video. Are you saying you didn't actually watch the video?
@@JasonWW2000 I use captions, so maybe TLDW, it helps to index the content even if it's short. With chapters on videos now it was hard to find unless you get through all the extra in the video.
In any auto with subs in trunk, the trunk is a must. One either has to completely seal off trunk from cabin or deaden it. 90% deaden as most use sealed or ported subboxes.
Best of all is the trunk of cheap/barebone hatchbacks/estates because it's often just steel sheet down there. I once had a cheap mk.1 yaris and it made a world of difference just with the area aft of the rear seats; it muted a lot of exhaust rattle and road noise for very little money and effort. It's also really easy to cover the rear wheel wells in hatchbacks from the inside.
the trunk is also dependant on the car. Newer cars are usually pretty stuffed with liners and interior/trim. Older cars, especially wagons, can benefit a lot from it. My car specifically, Volvo 740, has a solid rear axle and (iirc) no factory insulation and the trunk actually uses a lot of wood for the trunk interior, sound deadening the trunk area makes a HUGE difference on my car specifically, mainly around the wheel wells and where the axle mounts to the chassis to be specific. Potential seal breakages and where stuff mounts to the chassis are areas you'll see a lot of improvement, suspension mounts like I mentioned above. If your car has a tow hook then it could (theoretically) make a big difference when pulling a trailer considering they don't have suspension most of the time so your car is gonna absorb a lot of the road vibrations
that last comment about left over clips hits home. i can even count the number of times I've just said "F it" and left plastic parts off my car because of the hassle of those clips.
A fabric headliner with a polyfill backing added (in addition to adding cheaper sound deadening material) is a great way to lower the road noise. Yes adding sound deadening to the floor, (and)doors, and adding closed or open cell foam in between the outer and inner skins r also inexpensive ways to reduce road noise. I've personally been able to reduce my ambient road noise by at least 3db. Also I'm only halfway done with my vehicle so hence y I say at least. (It's been 3db already and I'm not finished yet. I still have 2 more doors and 2/3 the floor to add material to).
Thank you. But what exactly the material did he use inside the doors, individually cut to size? Are there possibly better, cheaper, yet definitely more eco-friendly and fire-safe solutions? If it possible a link plz, I am right now working on my car Thanks.
@АлескандрЯстержембский try a polyfill from a craft store (or online). I don't think I can add a link, they usually get deleted, but most polyfill (especially for anything for a kid) is usually flame retardant due to safety reasons (u can find material that is eco-friendly as well, but it costs more). I've gone into a craft store to do research (usually just figuring out what the type of material I want is called, so I can find it cheaper online
Wagons, hatchbacks, and SUVs all greatly benefit from added trunk insulation. Rolls Royce completely sealed off the trunk compartment of the Cullinan SUV because the trunk area was the biggest source of added noise over their sedans.
I understand that the trunk can be not entirely worth it, but for me it was worth looking at! I have a 2010 corolla s, and under the carpet where the spare cavity is, there is nothing! Its just plain frame. I added adhesive back cat scratching carpet and added missing plugs to the drain holes and at fwy it reduced droan and lessened the bang over speedbumps quite a lot!
You’re right but they all help, I do layers of butyl to reduce vibration and lower resonant frequency of panels, then on top mass loaded vinyl then on top of that closed cell foam
@@Cee-i4peverything helps, even mud. The heavier the material the less vibration. It's just how far are you willing to go with loading up your vehicle weight wise.
In a sedan, I can see it not making much of a difference as far as road noise but in my RSX which is a hatch style trunk it made a big difference not only with road noise but my oem spare tire 5” Bose sub with oem amplifier didn’t produce much if any “bass” before but after lining the trunk floor 90% along with 75% coverage in rear 1/4 panels and 60% around the hatch itself. All I can say is wow! Road noise absolutely very noticeably reduced and the sound quality of oem tiny subwoofer and amplifiers is impressive now! I was 99% going to upgrade subwoofer and sub amp but I ended up leaving those in and only upgraded my head unit and door + rear mids/highs to Polk Audio coaxials and it sounds fantastic. Road noise and just overall driving quality is upgraded so much. Truly an under rated mod. I did add a layer of closed cell foam over the rest of the cab. (Which actually serves as a fantastic insulator also!) on hot summer days (ambient temps approx 105-110F) after sitting in sun all day the inside temp from before to after is crazy noticeable. I didn’t actually “measure” temps but it feels like 15-20F difference at least! Same with colder winter days (ambient 35-45F) getting in it’s much more tolerable than before. I actually still didn’t do the foam layer in trunk yet also. We I will soon and wondering if that may make more of a noticeable difference. 🤔 also when I do my dash swap I am going to add to the firewall. What I have at this point is so nice and impressive and I’m excited to see or “hear” after the firewall and adding the closed cell foam layer in the trunk area will do. I’ll be ecstatic if it’s even just noticeably quieter. I guess the tough part is not skimping on coverage yet not over doing to where you’re wasting money and adding unnecessary weight. The weight to me is worth the sacrifice for these results. Finding that perfect ratio of effectiveness but not excessive. When full interior was stripped out I wanted to make sure I didn’t wish I did more because I really don’t want to remove the entire interior again. Very very time consuming and can add a lot of weight. I must have put 40 Lbs of the stuff in my car, maybe even 50+ wouldn’t surprise me. Initial Butyl layer is pretty heavy. Absolutely worth it and the time!
Hatchbacks don't have trunks ! Just because the most rearward portion of the vehicle is generally used for store does not mean it is a trunk. It's actually inside the passenger compartment, the same as SUVs.
@@rpasco9352 Roger that, I probably shouldn’t have used that word loosely but I just meant in a hatchback / lift back/ lift gate vehicle where the storage area isn’t an actual “trunk”. When it is explained in the vid that it doesn’t make a difference in the “trunk” area some may generally just assume that storage area in back of vehicle even though they may have a hatch or lift gate SUV etc. that it won’t make a difference when it absolutely makes a difference in a hatch , lift gate type vehicle. That’s all I meant but I didn’t mean literally trunk, it obviously doesn’t have a “trunk” if it’s a hatch or lift gate style vehicle & should’ve taken into consideration that some may take it literally 👍
Depending on the car you have a lot of sound comes from the trunk especially the spare tire location. if you dont do the trunk at least insulate the rear deck as trunk noise can enter the cabin thru there. Dont take off the wheel well liner, just Clean it real good and spray many layers of under coating. I noticed a reduction of road noise and liner remained in place. So far the undercoating is still in place as it was made to withstand outside conditions such as when installed on under the car.
@@ronald5728 yeah you have a lot more open space for drone and road noise in a liftback compared to a sedan where its entire trunk compartment is sealed off
It's a double edged sword putting it under the hood, yeah engine sounds are reduced cool....but engine sounds are reduce....meaning you're less likely to hear a potential major issue before it becomes major....example Car starts to misfire.
Or just do regular PMCS on the car, or do not buy MOPAR, Ford, VW, Hyundai, Kia, Audi, or BMW vehicles and you will not have those issues to begin with...
Actually, the real issue of insulating the engine hood is that you're trapping heat in the engine compartment, shortening the engine and component parts lifespan. That's 1 major reason motorcycles and old VWs don't have radiators. They're air cooled.
I feel the same about doing the floor as well, especially on something like my 4WD 98 Cherokee because there’s a lot more that can go wrong than some other vehicles. I’m gonna get my sound system installed and see if I find it to be worth it to do my sound deadening before I move out/out of state one day where it won’t be nearly as easy to do a big project like that.
@@journeyman291hood insulation isn’t going to trap any more air than there is currently trapped in your engine compartment. If anything, reducing the surface area underneath the hood with an insulation pad would make less pockets for hot stagnant air to stick around in. Stagnant air in the engine compartment is an engineering failure of design.
Hydrophobic melamine foam (HMF): A waterproof material that's resistant to heat and is considered a high-quality option. Anything that absorbs or retains moisture is bad- stays moist, grows mold.
Trunk is a must if there is a sub back there, the rear deck is very noisy that's a must as well. Floor is a obvious must, as are doors. Wheel wells all 4 a must. Roof, firewall and hood are secondary. C pillars(center) should be a must, A(front windshield) and B(rear pillars) are secondary.Never use spray on if possible. Only spray should be 3m 77 to tack on tough areas, or for replacing or reinstalling carpet and you need to keep down certain areas better. You must use both cld(foil, butyl and elastics ie-dynomat, siless, kilzmat ect) and ccf(closed cell foam) Cut around any door/interior clip holes so you can install it on thick (160-500 mil) Floors can take 500 mil easy, same as trunk and under hood. Wheel wells, reardeck, roof and pillars 120 or less. Both my cars are premium luxury and both needed it. Premium autos are usually good at the firewall but rarely anywhere else unless 100k+. Premiums usually have heavy solid doors so soundproofing is easy. Never forget to use ccf behind speakers to stop backwave. Never use enclosures inside of doors, try not to use factory locations directly to metal. Speaker pods that bolt, or are fabbed to door card(panel) will have best results. The main idea with doors is to isolate the speaker/sub from the door itself, impossible 100%, but you must mostly kill or severely limit as much backwave and vibrations from the speaker to the door as possible. Never install more sheet metal to cover large holes, use plastics or rubber, or simply cover large holes with ccf itself supported, vs sheet metal and then deadening. Use butyl rope/tape for smaller holes, bars, odd narrow gaps, and fabric/cloth tape to silence cables, wires and connectors. It's not just vacuuming your car, it's slow and tedious work. If you're not putting 2-3k+ into a system, pass on all this. Just do doors, or save up and be patient.
Thank you. But what exactly the material did he use inside the doors, individually cut to size? Are there possibly better, cheaper, yet definitely more Eco-friendly and fire-safe solutions? If it possible a link plz, I am right now working on my car Thanks.
I planned to dampen the whole car, done roof door and hood so far ,1 thing I've noticed is there're 4db noise reduction but much significant low frequency noise, which sometimes feel like in sitting in an enclosed drum, a little bit annoying
Easiest tip - never mind the underfloor work. That’s hard, and not for everyone. Two negatives for it - hard and water absorption. Maybe the foam you use is closed-cell, maybe it’s not, how would you know before buying it (sure, there’s a description by the vendor, I know). Add a second set of floor mats, or some kind of under-mat padding, eg same underlay as for carpets at home. One big issue hardly mentioned, is fire. Hands up all those who flame-test the stuff that says it’s ‘fire-resistant’ themselves after they buy it. I got a shock, had some special foam pads for a loft, flame-retardant it’s meant to have…I lit it with my hob igniter flame just like the ordinary foam - both were self-perpetuating to a degree, once they ignited. But, floor mats, is my tip. Remember, these are the biggest flat sections of your interior, along with the roof and the door panels. It’s not just about stopping large flappy panels from undulating, it’s also about absorbing lots of little echoes that otherwise ping-pong around. But, good vid, thanks for these insights on other stuff. Take care all, and don;t be afraid to use earplugs for long lonely journeys, that works too (question for discussion: is it worse or better, to use the likes of Apple earbuds when driving, for your ear protection? My brother and I kicked this around. It is alarming how loud you turn the stereo in the car up, when going faster than say 50mph/80kph. Earbuds block noise, but do you end up turning them up too, so much it’s bad on a long journey? And, the earplug/earbud method, makes you slightly more ‘deaf’ to vehicles in close proximity. Anyway, points to ponder.)
been using airpod noise cancellation and it remove almost all noises in the car up to the point im out of touch with reality..feels like im just floating in my car
My car does not have bluetooth so I use airpods pro for phone calls and I realized it's so much quieter so I started using them on the highway for longer trips. I can see AND hear emergence vehicles just fine.
I've done a layer of the amazon sound deadening material (9sheets). I did the trunk but not the floor. I'm thinking of buying the 36sq/ft of the closed cell to add another layer to the doors and maybe the floor. Its an old 2009 Honda Accord Ex-L that has a loud cabin.
Doors and floors is where you will have the most road noise reduction, especially on those older models where they would have much less sound deadening materials in them. Best of luck and let me know how it turns out!!
Hey! I just came from your other video where you're insulating the wheel wells of your car. It looks like in that video you use a adhesive butyl type material to achieve this. I was wondering if you can share a bit of a comparison between that and the spray on deadener that you're using in this video - is the spray on adequate for deadining?
SOO.. how about some easy to reach spots under the hood that lower the noise, and also from the floor, an easy way, just use that material as a carpet, that would get it better?
Here's a hint: I have a late 80's Mercedes-Benz and under the factory floor mats for the front footwells are factory carpet panels -- and those have contoured foam up to 2" thick underneath them. (The contours are to adapt to things like heater ducts to the back seats.)
I suspect that in a hatchback (about to go pick up a Honda Jazz/Fit) the boot/trunk will have a similar effect to the doors as it's a single skin surface that faces the cab. Thoughts?
Thank you. Comprehensive. A few clarifying questions for everyone who sees this message: Have you encountered custom insulating materials pre-cut to size for installation instead of regular PET films inside the doors of budget cars? Between the door spaces and the door panel, a regular film is often installed. If it is replaced with a pre-shaped sound-absorbing material, it would be more effective. Also, instead of the original wheel well liner, are there liners with built-in soundproofing capabilities? Instead of treating with spray, is it possible to replace the entire part with a high-quality one? Thank you.
Hi, and thanks for sharing your knowledge about soundproofing. I’ve been using your advice for car insulation. I noticed that under the door panels on your Honda Accord, you installed some interesting material cut to size, probably to replace the film that was there. I'm curious about what material you used. Do you know of any better, cheaper, or more eco-friendly options? There are no links on Amazon or under the video, and you haven’t replied to comments. So, I decided to ask you in a private message. Thanks.
There should be a trypophobia trigger warning on this video 😂 Does the deadener need to have that whiteish design on it? So weird to look at after it is put on.
Any suggestions on soundproofing a (very loud), old fashioned diesel engine in a sailboat? These old diesels give out a lot of low end vibration so that would be a factor. Additionally, the muffler (which contains both the exhaust gasses and cooling seawater) is inside the engine compartment, as an additional noise source. I placed a soundproofing mat on all the available surfaces in the engine bay (but that did not include underneath the engine aa any oil or cooling water leaks are fed into the bilge) and it made almost no difference. Any suggestions? Is there any material that might deaden the exhaust (which, of course, is quite warm)?
@stephenburnage7687 Unfortunately, Low Frequency vibrations, resonances, and direct sound sources are the most difficult to reduce. The low frequency sounds, vibrations, and resonances that we typically associate as engine rumble & vibration or exhaust drone begin around 100Hz and lower in frequency. This is why we can hear sonic booms, thunder, and the subwoofers from from car audio systems over long distances. The high frequency wavelengths are dissipated much more quickly over distance, but low frequency travels large distances unimpeded even by multiple barriers. It takes an incredible amount of mass (weight over a large area) in combination with excessive and very thick absorbtion materials to reduce low frequency energy. This is because the wavelength of an 80Hz frequency is over 14ft long, and by the time you get down to 30Hz, the wavelength is over 37ft long! In order to even begin to effectively ABSORB low frequency sound and vibrations, the absorbing material must be AT LEAST 1/4 of the wavelength of that frequency. So, in the case of 80Hz, your absorbtion material would need to be 14 x 0.25 = 3.5 or 3.5 feet thick! That is obviously not practical in most scenarios. Calculate the same 1/4-wave thickness that would be needed to absorb and dissipate 30Hz, and now the absorber material would need to be over 9 feet thick! Your best bet is to try to find better double-isolation rubber engine mounts that would provide much better isolation and anti-vibration properties between the engine and the hull. And then, also make the engine compartment 100% air tight and completely enclosed with 1/16"-1/8" thick sheet lead sandwiched betweeen two durable 1/2" thick layers of Closed Cell Foam which will act as a Sound BARRIER. The sealed sheet lead box acts as both Mass Loading over a large area AND isolates and contains the low frequency vibration and sound energy within the engine compartment. It's just like the windows in your home or car. When the window is closed completely, the least amount of sound from the other side will be heard. But open that same window even a little bit with just a narrow gap and exponentially more sound will make it to your ears. ANY amount of actual air transfer between one side and the other results in a significant transfer of the sound waves and energy. Obviously, due to the heat that is generated by your engine and the exhaust system, it would be impossible to completey seal the engine compartment. You would need a pair of thick, heavy 4" or larger diameter cast iron pipes covered with exterior sound blankets combined with constant forced air flow via a fan to act as a fresh/cool air intake and heat + noise exhaust to an exterior area that is away from the living areas of the cabin in order to expel the heat and isolate and reduce the low frequency energy within the cabin. And wherever those heavy pipes pass through an interior bulkhead and/or the hull to the exterior, they would need to be isolated from transfering their vibrational energy to the bulkheads and hull...i.e. a thick rubber or silicone gasket seal around each pipe where it makes a pass-through or penetration. A rebuilt engine that is "balanced & blueprinted" or different engine and exhaust system altogether that produces much less vibration and low frequency sound energy is the ideal solution, combined with new engine mounts with better isloation. There is also a non-hardening clay-type product called Duct-Seal that is available at your local hardware stores in the electrical department or online. It is used to make air- and water-tight seals in electrical conduit and wiring pass-throughs in beams and bulkheads. If used to seal open holes or gaps, this might help to keep the vibrational energy in the engine compartment from escaping towards the cabin and living areas.
In addition to the excellent suggestions above, you could try installing a crankshaft damper to help reduce engine vibrations. Fluidamper makes them for a wide range of engines. You likely can find one that fits. Better engine mounts can reduce vibration. Look for mounts designed for industrial generators or other equipment. In the industrial world, it's common to use a dual dampening solution. The equipment is mounted (with dampening mounts) to a sled with is then mounted on a flexible base (of different density than the equipment mounts) If your engine is being run primarily to provide electrical power you can always look at installing a smaller dedicated generator, alternative charging (solar, wind, prop-driven generator, etc,), or a larger battery bank to cut down on engine runtime.
They claim it can last the life of the car depending on where it’s applied. It won’t last as long If it’s exposed to the elements and road debris. Just make sure the surface is clean and dry before applying the spray. Best of luck!
Is there an effect of these materials on the heat of the car ? for example a car parked under the sun and has noise-sealing materials for example( in the roof, in the hood, and in the doors), won't it heat up the vehicle more ? and also it's not take the car get rid of the heat more slowly on a hot day?
you are right about that. I have a VW T5 panelvan, i insulated it as much as possible. If i park my car on a hot day, windows into the sun, it gets as hot as a regular car and cooling down takes alot of time. Otherwise when i place the isulation corvers on my windows, it stays cool. In a cold winter day when using the heating, interior stays warm for a long period. Killed the noise in my van alot
Great video, which sound deadening spray do you suggest? I just got a new Camry and there's really not too much road noise but I think the little bit that there is, is coming from the wheel wells. What was the foam you used on the doors, I may use that under my hood. Thanks!
I moved into an apartment close to a busy street. The noise from cars, motorcycles, etc. is quite bothersome. Do you have any ideas on how I can soundproof the apartment? I'm renting it, so soundproofing walls or replacing the windows (which are triple glazed, but not soundproof) are not an option. What can I do? External shutters? Maybe acoustic panels?
My brother in law gives drum lessons in his rented apartment, he lined the 4 walls of the teaching room with those 12x12 egg cartons, the drum noise is cancelled out and you can barely hear the drums from the next room. He used blutack to attach the egg cartons to the wall because it usually comes off without removing the paint on the wall. You can cover the egg cartons with some wall sheeting if you don't like the look of them.
What are your thoughts regarding cutting thin strips of the sound deadening and attaching them to various arms on the suspension? And also the struts. Just to quell any small road noise that might be transmitted to the body from there?
Wouldn't the same reduction in noise levels be achieved if the sound absorbing material be added in specific areas of a car, like wheel wells, engine compartment, and firewall? I noticed that the early model Lexus cars had similar sound absorbing material that looked like Dynamat that were cut into small sections and placed in certain areas in the cabin. My guess is that their sound engineers knew how to target very specific points within the cabin to reduce noise. I've seen other videos where people ensconced the entire cabin with sound deadening material and with very disappointing results. Therefore engineers know what they are doing with small swatches of Dynamat although it looks like they're being cheap with the sound proofing. The 1977 Lincoln Versailles boasted a sound deadening feature where the shocks were double isolated. Maybe experimenting with adding rubber insulators where the spring contacts the body of the car or strut housing? Tires also play a significant role in road noise, especially if they have an aggressive tread for winter driving or they are constructed for longer wear.
I recently added a sport exhaust to my BMW Z4. The idea was to improve the sound, and I accomplished the job. The original exhaust, had a fairly large muffler box, which were replaced by two individual smaller muffler cans. The issue is that under acceleration, it's somewhat booming, but under regular cruising, no booming, which is great. I am thinking that where the back box was located, it has now become a cavernous void that is transferring sound inside the car. Would it help to put sound deadening material in this area? How well does the material stick to an exterior portion of the car? Technically it's below the trunk area so I'm thinking the sound transfers from outside into the trunk and into the occupant area.
pointless to use deadening outside except on wheel wells. Use extra on floors in trunk and inside. de-greasing and cleaning properly near impossible for it to stay stuck in that exhaust location.
You didn't use any on the roof. I find a lot of noise comes from the roof, especially when it's raining. Using it on the roof makes driving in the rain much more pleasant.
Hi , can you or anyone else give advice on how to use a sound deadener on something like a countertop waterpik? I realize the actual sound will still be audible when turned on but will layering the deadening material at least reduce the noice that comes from the contact the bottom of the wapterpik on the counter ?
This usually only alters frequency of the noise. You need foam on top of it and even massloaded vinyl on top of the foam. Vinyl needs to be insulated mechanically from the butyl-rubber. Foam absorbs noise quite well in its own. Just doing butyl like this is insufficient.
Why in the world wouldn't you do the trunk, that's usually the worst area in any car because of the subs being located in the rear of the vehicle? I know you want to eliminate any extra noise in the interior, but the trunk area I think needs more attention in most cases than the rest. I'm not saying to not do the interior, but I've always had more noise internally and externally coming from the rear.
hey quick question here. to sound proof a window. by doing a window insert which stuff with rock wool sound insulation wont help too much right? because i just did one, i even have 1 layer of 1 inch plywood in it. and i cant even feel any improvement, is it because i have some very tiny gap in between the insert and the window frame? so the sound pass through those gap,i need to have a rubber surround around the insert like indow window insert or the window insert just wont work. thank you
The Care Care Nut had an episode which an old Lexus was stripped off, seats, carpets & etc, to give a complete cleaning. There are only patches of sound insulation dampener in it. I think it cover not more of 25% of the Lexus body inside surface area. 🤔🤔🤔🤔. Maybe accurate location for, application of the 25% of sound deadener, could reduce NVH by >50%?.👍👍👍👍. Regards.
Soundproofing a sedan trunk won't make a difference, sure, because you're already separated from the cargo compartment, but for vans, hatchbacks, station wagons/estates/combi vehicles I think it's a different story. At least when it comes to the trunk/boot floor.
I spent a lot of time sound insulating my car which had pretty much next to none insulation. I used only the first step insulation like in the video. I actually never understood that it needed more layers of other materials. I can´t really imagine to do it all over again right now. Was my effort in vain? I´m driving witehout several door panels now so I haven´t heard any difference obviously
I had a question, I just did my tirearch, i've put sound deadening + closed cell foam , however a mechanic friend of mine said this can only be done inside, if i did it outside, it will absorb moisture and develop rust, when I put the material on, the paint was intact coz the car is new, so I think it should be ok? i tried to search can you do it outside and foudn your video to suggest it can be done on outside? what is your recommendation? thanks a lot
Wouldn't lining my car with rubber or something dense help more than actually applying this sticky rubber to the actual metal? Like just thick car mats
It would help but the sticky park makes it so it absorbs the vibrations a lot better than just laying some rubber overtop it. Both methods will help but the sticky part helps with vibrational road noise.
Got extremly cheap foil topped butyl foam stuff material off temu. Like suspiciously cheap...any experience with that stuff? So i only have it on the roof right now lol (cause i did the starlights in headboard.) It made the subwoofer sound a lot better. But road noise seems almost the same....maybe a little quiter? But that could be placebo effect. Gonna do the floor. I suppose i will let yall know.
@thelifeofaboi2693 it works really well! I noticed a difference in noise for sure. I did the cheap temu foil lined butyl rubber. And then I did a layer of non foil butyl rubber from Amazon. 30 buks for 24 sqft..... Is it worth the money that I spent? Oh yeah. But I would absolutely not pay full price for this. It works I guess. But it's not like I'm in a soundproof room all the sudden. If the car is easy enough to take carpet out. It's worth getting the cheaper foil stuff. But I've only had experience with this these two products. I would really have no way of knowing if it's good compared to name brand...but I could totally tell a difference in quality of the butyl rubber between temu and Amazon stuff. Amazon stuff was more dense. And at times the temu butyl rubber looked like it was melting off paper. But it does the job.
It's like Chinese Medicine, every doctor has different diagnostics for the same symptom and every doctor has different opinion about the medicine. All claim that their solution are all about experience of decades of practice yet the effectiveness are all depending on the patients themselves. 😂
Links to ALL products I recommend in the description of this video!
I cannot find one! Would you recommend the material to replace the film between the door panel and the door for better soundproofing? I saw this improvement in soundproofing materials. I want to cut and glue it myself instead of the plastic film. Thank you.
On your comment of insulating the floor of the car, I just put standard house floor underpadding underneath the carpet in a cheap econobox. It was so effective people actually would comment on how quite the car was.
I had the same stuff put under my carpet in my 70 Buick. Made a big difference.
Carpet padding? Isnt that stuff too thick to then have your car carpet fit properly afterwards?
quite quiet
The issue there might be - if its not waterproof, it’ll absorb liquids (inevitably- spills, rain, washing) the material grows mold & bacteria which will smell.
@@stevebutler812 true
Your experience over the years of making these videos is definitely showing up! This was much better put together.
Thanks.
I also did deadening on the roof. it didn't help much in normal day driving. but much better when it rain. It also help reduce heat from the sun.
reducing heat is interesting. but i actually really enjoy the rain sound
@@user-jc5ff7tu5o i love the sound of the rain! Just not when it fall on a thin metal sheet 😂
Rain on the windshield is very loud, but I had other issues when using the mat.
The sun effect is interesting for sure… having an all black interior that noticeably gets hotter the LITERAL SECOND the AC turns off full blast on a hot sunny day. This sounds interesting.
@@ultragalacticgamer7195 I wonder how effective the 'glue' is, under intense roof heat? It probably wouldn't stick long?
I have an 'entry level' vehicle for getting about and yes, it's quite noisy. Thinking that it's not good for my hearing. Been on my mind off and on for a long time to insulate it than it has. This video has spurred me on. Remember: No project's too big to start! 😂😢😂
You don’t need to cover the whole panel. Just 50% or even much less will already do most of the work. Search for sound deadening on YT and look for a video of ‘car builders - sound and heat’ from 5 years ago for a great example.
It's not entry level, it's called an economy car 👍
@@sean640based off a definition of “entry level,” an economy car can be considered an entry level vehicle
really great overview of different areas. The only thing I'd add is specifically in hatchbacks I have found doing the "trunk" area can make a huge difference since it's really inside the cabin vs. the mostly uselessness of doing the trunk in a sedan.
Also look under the back seat. My mk3 golf has no sound prodding under there. Throughly is I’m waiting for some welding to done so can’t start doing anything until it’s sorted or it will get stripped again.
My 2022 Kona N-line Ultimate has a lot of noise coming from the rear trunk area and rear wheel wells. Hoping to dampen that for better conversation with rear passengers, and for the Harmon Karden player.
uselessness? Both my large sedans trunks are deadened with 500 mil of material because both have 36hz tuned dual subboxes pushing 2000rms 3200peak. My license plates are deadened they'd vibrate so much, same as the trunk. Not sure what world you're living in, apparently in one where you don't run subs in the trunk. My sedans are tuned better than your tin can hatchback could ever be.
I kept my late husband in the trunk and the ride became soooo much more pleasurable and the sound changed dramatically. Had to remove him when decomposition started.
Seriously.
You could have kept him there for a bit longer if you used powdered lime. My condolences.
You shoulda bought a better quality body bag, it is worth the extra.
With a name like billiebobbie I believe you.
Does car have trunk what do u mean by trunk?
@@soundproofguide So sorry for your loss.
Congratulations on your decible drop!
TLDR: Under Hood, Under Wheel Liner, Doors, Floor. Not the Trunk.
Trunk is most important due to subwoofers rattling the sheet metal. If you don't have a subwoofer then I guess you only need to focus on isolating the trunk from the interior compartment.
Also, what do you mean by TLDR? This is a video. Are you saying you didn't actually watch the video?
@@JasonWW2000 I use captions, so maybe TLDW, it helps to index the content even if it's short. With chapters on videos now it was hard to find unless you get through all the extra in the video.
In any auto with subs in trunk, the trunk is a must. One either has to completely seal off trunk from cabin or deaden it. 90% deaden as most use sealed or ported subboxes.
Best of all is the trunk of cheap/barebone hatchbacks/estates because it's often just steel sheet down there. I once had a cheap mk.1 yaris and it made a world of difference just with the area aft of the rear seats; it muted a lot of exhaust rattle and road noise for very little money and effort. It's also really easy to cover the rear wheel wells in hatchbacks from the inside.
the trunk is also dependant on the car. Newer cars are usually pretty stuffed with liners and interior/trim. Older cars, especially wagons, can benefit a lot from it. My car specifically, Volvo 740, has a solid rear axle and (iirc) no factory insulation and the trunk actually uses a lot of wood for the trunk interior, sound deadening the trunk area makes a HUGE difference on my car specifically, mainly around the wheel wells and where the axle mounts to the chassis to be specific.
Potential seal breakages and where stuff mounts to the chassis are areas you'll see a lot of improvement, suspension mounts like I mentioned above.
If your car has a tow hook then it could (theoretically) make a big difference when pulling a trailer considering they don't have suspension most of the time so your car is gonna absorb a lot of the road vibrations
You're just repeating what you heard in video.
that last comment about left over clips hits home. i can even count the number of times I've just said "F it" and left plastic parts off my car because of the hassle of those clips.
100 clips and tool amazon $7-15 depending on auto. Same as having extra fuses handy.
Sincere thanks to you. You saved my time, effort and money as I too was trying to make my car quieter. Cheers!
A fabric headliner with a polyfill backing added (in addition to adding cheaper sound deadening material) is a great way to lower the road noise. Yes adding sound deadening to the floor, (and)doors, and adding closed or open cell foam in between the outer and inner skins r also inexpensive ways to reduce road noise. I've personally been able to reduce my ambient road noise by at least 3db. Also I'm only halfway done with my vehicle so hence y I say at least. (It's been 3db already and I'm not finished yet. I still have 2 more doors and 2/3 the floor to add material to).
Roof is the least important next to a and b pillars.
Thank you. But what exactly the material did he use inside the doors, individually cut to size? Are there possibly better, cheaper, yet definitely more eco-friendly and fire-safe solutions? If it possible a link plz, I am right now working on my car Thanks.
@@Cee-i4p roof is important if the vehicle is in a hot climate (cuts down on heat from the sun)
@АлескандрЯстержембский try a polyfill from a craft store (or online). I don't think I can add a link, they usually get deleted, but most polyfill (especially for anything for a kid) is usually flame retardant due to safety reasons (u can find material that is eco-friendly as well, but it costs more). I've gone into a craft store to do research (usually just figuring out what the type of material I want is called, so I can find it cheaper online
Wagons, hatchbacks, and SUVs all greatly benefit from added trunk insulation. Rolls Royce completely sealed off the trunk compartment of the Cullinan SUV because the trunk area was the biggest source of added noise over their sedans.
I understand that the trunk can be not entirely worth it, but for me it was worth looking at! I have a 2010 corolla s, and under the carpet where the spare cavity is, there is nothing! Its just plain frame. I added adhesive back cat scratching carpet and added missing plugs to the drain holes and at fwy it reduced droan and lessened the bang over speedbumps quite a lot!
I added a thick blanket between the metal floor and car trunk liner which seemed to help reduce noise. Nice and easy fix.
All autos trunks are important if subs are in there.
Sound deadening doesn't do much besides stop rattles. To stop road noise MLV or sound absorbing material is more important
This
What is MLV?
@@AndrewDasilvaPLT Mass loaded vinyl
You’re right but they all help, I do layers of butyl to reduce vibration and lower resonant frequency of panels, then on top mass loaded vinyl then on top of that closed cell foam
In an older car, sometimes, all you want is to remove vibrations
The other cheap and effective way is to spray truck bed liner to your fender liner (only the plastic part)
It does reduced high pitch road noise
Which part? On the wheel side or top side?
@@inevespace On the wheel side. Make sure it has uneven texture finish.
lol in no way does that help.
@@Cee-i4peverything helps, even mud. The heavier the material the less vibration. It's just how far are you willing to go with loading up your vehicle weight wise.
In a sedan, I can see it not making much of a difference as far as road noise but in my RSX which is a hatch style trunk it made a big difference not only with road noise but my oem spare tire 5” Bose sub with oem amplifier didn’t produce much if any “bass” before but after lining the trunk floor 90% along with 75% coverage in rear 1/4 panels and 60% around the hatch itself. All I can say is wow! Road noise absolutely very noticeably reduced and the sound quality of oem tiny subwoofer and amplifiers is impressive now! I was 99% going to upgrade subwoofer and sub amp but I ended up leaving those in and only upgraded my head unit and door + rear mids/highs to Polk Audio coaxials and it sounds fantastic. Road noise and just overall driving quality is upgraded so much. Truly an under rated mod. I did add a layer of closed cell foam over the rest of the cab. (Which actually serves as a fantastic insulator also!) on hot summer days (ambient temps approx 105-110F) after sitting in sun all day the inside temp from before to after is crazy noticeable. I didn’t actually “measure” temps but it feels like 15-20F difference at least! Same with colder winter days (ambient 35-45F) getting in it’s much more tolerable than before.
I actually still didn’t do the foam layer in trunk yet also. We I will soon and wondering if that may make more of a noticeable difference. 🤔
also when I do my dash swap I am going to add to the firewall. What I have at this point is so nice and impressive and I’m excited to see or “hear” after the firewall and adding the closed cell foam layer in the trunk area will do. I’ll be ecstatic if it’s even just noticeably quieter.
I guess the tough part is not skimping on coverage yet not over doing to where you’re wasting money and adding unnecessary weight. The weight to me is worth the sacrifice for these results. Finding that perfect ratio of effectiveness but not excessive. When full interior was stripped out I wanted to make sure I didn’t wish I did more because I really don’t want to remove the entire interior again. Very very time consuming and can add a lot of weight. I must have put 40 Lbs of the stuff in my car, maybe even 50+ wouldn’t surprise me. Initial Butyl layer is pretty heavy. Absolutely worth it and the time!
Hatchbacks don't have trunks ! Just because the most rearward portion of the vehicle is generally used for store does not mean it is a trunk. It's actually inside the passenger compartment, the same as SUVs.
@@rpasco9352 Roger that, I probably shouldn’t have used that word loosely but I just meant in a hatchback / lift back/ lift gate vehicle where the storage area isn’t an actual “trunk”. When it is explained in the vid that it doesn’t make a difference in the “trunk” area some may generally just assume that storage area in back of vehicle even though they may have a hatch or lift gate SUV etc. that it won’t make a difference when it absolutely makes a difference in a hatch , lift gate type vehicle. That’s all I meant but I didn’t mean literally trunk, it obviously doesn’t have a “trunk” if it’s a hatch or lift gate style vehicle & should’ve taken into consideration that some may take it literally 👍
Depending on the car you have a lot of sound comes from the trunk especially the spare tire location. if you dont do the trunk at least insulate the rear deck as trunk noise can enter the cabin thru there. Dont take off the wheel well liner, just Clean it real good and spray many layers of under coating. I noticed a reduction of road noise and liner remained in place. So far the undercoating is still in place as it was made to withstand outside conditions such as when installed on under the car.
yes to trunk/reardeck. no to spraying undercoating on wheel well liners.
Guys this video n this man is honest . I amdoing sane thing same result . I need more video and advise for soundproofing engine car
I have a hatchback/lift back. So sound deadening it's trunk is a lot more salubrious than a typical sedan
Salubrious?
@@ronald5728 yeah you have a lot more open space for drone and road noise in a liftback compared to a sedan where its entire trunk compartment is sealed off
@@epicraptorman most sedans trunks are not sealed off, but I get it, hatchbacks suck.
It's a double edged sword putting it under the hood, yeah engine sounds are reduced cool....but engine sounds are reduce....meaning you're less likely to hear a potential major issue before it becomes major....example Car starts to misfire.
Or just do regular PMCS on the car, or do not buy MOPAR, Ford, VW, Hyundai, Kia, Audi, or BMW vehicles and you will not have those issues to begin with...
Actually, the real issue of insulating the engine hood is that you're trapping heat in the engine compartment, shortening the engine and component parts lifespan. That's 1 major reason motorcycles and old VWs don't have radiators. They're air cooled.
I feel the same about doing the floor as well, especially on something like my 4WD 98 Cherokee because there’s a lot more that can go wrong than some other vehicles. I’m gonna get my sound system installed and see if I find it to be worth it to do my sound deadening before I move out/out of state one day where it won’t be nearly as easy to do a big project like that.
@@journeyman291hood insulation isn’t going to trap any more air than there is currently trapped in your engine compartment. If anything, reducing the surface area underneath the hood with an insulation pad would make less pockets for hot stagnant air to stick around in. Stagnant air in the engine compartment is an engineering failure of design.
Excellent mate. Thanks for your advice which I will follow later today. Very clear explanation, great work.
Hydrophobic melamine foam (HMF): A waterproof material that's resistant to heat and is considered a high-quality option. Anything that absorbs or retains moisture is bad- stays moist, grows mold.
Trunk is a must if there is a sub back there, the rear deck is very noisy that's a must as well. Floor is a obvious must, as are doors. Wheel wells all 4 a must. Roof, firewall and hood are secondary. C pillars(center) should be a must, A(front windshield) and B(rear pillars) are secondary.Never use spray on if possible. Only spray should be 3m 77 to tack on tough areas, or for replacing or reinstalling carpet and you need to keep down certain areas better. You must use both cld(foil, butyl and elastics ie-dynomat, siless, kilzmat ect) and ccf(closed cell foam) Cut around any door/interior clip holes so you can install it on thick (160-500 mil) Floors can take 500 mil easy, same as trunk and under hood. Wheel wells, reardeck, roof and pillars 120 or less. Both my cars are premium luxury and both needed it. Premium autos are usually good at the firewall but rarely anywhere else unless 100k+. Premiums usually have heavy solid doors so soundproofing is easy. Never forget to use ccf behind speakers to stop backwave. Never use enclosures inside of doors, try not to use factory locations directly to metal. Speaker pods that bolt, or are fabbed to door card(panel) will have best results. The main idea with doors is to isolate the speaker/sub from the door itself, impossible 100%, but you must mostly kill or severely limit as much backwave and vibrations from the speaker to the door as possible. Never install more sheet metal to cover large holes, use plastics or rubber, or simply cover large holes with ccf itself supported, vs sheet metal and then deadening. Use butyl rope/tape for smaller holes, bars, odd narrow gaps, and fabric/cloth tape to silence cables, wires and connectors.
It's not just vacuuming your car, it's slow and tedious work. If you're not putting 2-3k+ into a system, pass on all this. Just do doors, or save up and be patient.
Thank you. But what exactly the material did he use inside the doors, individually cut to size? Are there possibly better, cheaper, yet definitely more Eco-friendly and fire-safe solutions? If it possible a link plz, I am right now working on my car Thanks.
I planned to dampen the whole car, done roof door and hood so far ,1 thing I've noticed is there're 4db noise reduction but much significant low frequency noise, which sometimes feel like in sitting in an enclosed drum, a little bit annoying
Sorry about the question. I just saw your most recent video, lol. The algorithm brought me to your channel, so I had to ask about your preferences.
super helpful! I gotta sound deaden my honda as it's geting old and noisy
If you got bass in the trunk. Do the trunk. Idk what hes tryna say but guys I all know love extreme bass
Easiest tip - never mind the underfloor work. That’s hard, and not for everyone. Two negatives for it - hard and water absorption. Maybe the foam you use is closed-cell, maybe it’s not, how would you know before buying it (sure, there’s a description by the vendor, I know). Add a second set of floor mats, or some kind of under-mat padding, eg same underlay as for carpets at home. One big issue hardly mentioned, is fire. Hands up all those who flame-test the stuff that says it’s ‘fire-resistant’ themselves after they buy it. I got a shock, had some special foam pads for a loft, flame-retardant it’s meant to have…I lit it with my hob igniter flame just like the ordinary foam - both were self-perpetuating to a degree, once they ignited. But, floor mats, is my tip. Remember, these are the biggest flat sections of your interior, along with the roof and the door panels. It’s not just about stopping large flappy panels from undulating, it’s also about absorbing lots of little echoes that otherwise ping-pong around. But, good vid, thanks for these insights on other stuff. Take care all, and don;t be afraid to use earplugs for long lonely journeys, that works too (question for discussion: is it worse or better, to use the likes of Apple earbuds when driving, for your ear protection? My brother and I kicked this around. It is alarming how loud you turn the stereo in the car up, when going faster than say 50mph/80kph. Earbuds block noise, but do you end up turning them up too, so much it’s bad on a long journey? And, the earplug/earbud method, makes you slightly more ‘deaf’ to vehicles in close proximity. Anyway, points to ponder.)
been using airpod noise cancellation and it remove almost all noises in the car up to the point im out of touch with reality..feels like im just floating in my car
You also eliminate hearing any emergency vehicles approaching or me beeping at your floating ass 👽
My car does not have bluetooth so I use airpods pro for phone calls and I realized it's so much quieter so I started using them on the highway for longer trips. I can see AND hear emergence vehicles just fine.
clueless comment easiest tip.
I've done a layer of the amazon sound deadening material (9sheets). I did the trunk but not the floor. I'm thinking of buying the 36sq/ft of the closed cell to add another layer to the doors and maybe the floor. Its an old 2009 Honda Accord Ex-L that has a loud cabin.
Doors and floors is where you will
have the most road noise reduction, especially on those older models where they would have much less sound deadening materials in them. Best of luck and let me know how it turns out!!
2022 corolla is new and still has awful road noise issues
I just did my doors in my civic today, I ordered more and I’m going to do the trunk and fenders above the wheels
@@rixzin5046did you notice a big difference after doing the doors?
What about behind the dashboard should we rip out the dashboard to damp behind it ? Or is it not worth it ? To reduce the engine noise
Hey! I just came from your other video where you're insulating the wheel wells of your car. It looks like in that video you use a adhesive butyl type material to achieve this. I was wondering if you can share a bit of a comparison between that and the spray on deadener that you're using in this video - is the spray on adequate for deadining?
I added a bit of sound deadening material to my hood and it didn't change the engine noise much on my Telsa.
SOO.. how about some easy to reach spots under the hood that lower the noise, and also from the floor, an easy way, just use that material as a carpet, that would get it better?
Would it be beneficial to glue sounds mats to the bottom of the floor mats, as well?? (For road noise)
Here's a hint: I have a late 80's Mercedes-Benz and under the factory floor mats for the front footwells are factory carpet panels -- and those have contoured foam up to 2" thick underneath them. (The contours are to adapt to things like heater ducts to the back seats.)
no. car mats don't need anything.
At 3:32 what is “this type” of insulation?
In the comments for the same thing!
I suspect that in a hatchback (about to go pick up a Honda Jazz/Fit) the boot/trunk will have a similar effect to the doors as it's a single skin surface that faces the cab. Thoughts?
If you have a sound system or aftermarket exhaust would be beneficial for trunk
Thank you. Comprehensive. A few clarifying questions for everyone who sees this message: Have you encountered custom insulating materials pre-cut to size for installation instead of regular PET films inside the doors of budget cars? Between the door spaces and the door panel, a regular film is often installed. If it is replaced with a pre-shaped sound-absorbing material, it would be more effective. Also, instead of the original wheel well liner, are there liners with built-in soundproofing capabilities? Instead of treating with spray, is it possible to replace the entire part with a high-quality one? Thank you.
no. pre shaped cld/ccf is no better than sheets, and it would be silly to replace wheel well liners vs soundproofing existing ones.
Hi, and thanks for sharing your knowledge about soundproofing. I’ve been
using your advice for car insulation. I noticed that under the door panels
on your Honda Accord, you installed some interesting material cut to size,
probably to replace the film that was there. I'm curious about what
material you used. Do you know of any better, cheaper, or more
eco-friendly options? There are no links on Amazon or under the video, and
you haven’t replied to comments. So, I decided to ask you in a private
message. Thanks.
What's the sheet you have for the door? Looks like an interior panel?
Will it also helps reducing wind noise in the car?
Hey, people, author. Have you met custom wheel liners ? WV uses felt made ones. It’s better, quitter than plastic. Ty
There should be a trypophobia trigger warning on this video 😂
Does the deadener need to have that whiteish design on it? So weird to look at after it is put on.
Would using thick floor mats make a difference?
Any suggestions on soundproofing a (very loud), old fashioned diesel engine in a sailboat? These old diesels give out a lot of low end vibration so that would be a factor. Additionally, the muffler (which contains both the exhaust gasses and cooling seawater) is inside the engine compartment, as an additional noise source. I placed a soundproofing mat on all the available surfaces in the engine bay (but that did not include underneath the engine aa any oil or cooling water leaks are fed into the bilge) and it made almost no difference. Any suggestions? Is there any material that might deaden the exhaust (which, of course, is quite warm)?
@stephenburnage7687
Unfortunately, Low Frequency vibrations, resonances, and direct sound sources are the most difficult to reduce. The low frequency sounds, vibrations, and resonances that we typically associate as engine rumble & vibration or exhaust drone begin around 100Hz and lower in frequency.
This is why we can hear sonic booms, thunder, and the subwoofers from from car audio systems over long distances. The high frequency wavelengths are dissipated much more quickly over distance, but low frequency travels large distances unimpeded even by multiple barriers.
It takes an incredible amount of mass (weight over a large area) in combination with excessive and very thick absorbtion materials to reduce low frequency energy.
This is because the wavelength of an 80Hz frequency is over 14ft long, and by the time you get down to 30Hz, the wavelength is over 37ft long!
In order to even begin to effectively ABSORB low frequency sound and vibrations, the absorbing material must be AT LEAST 1/4 of the wavelength of that frequency.
So, in the case of 80Hz, your absorbtion material would need to be 14 x 0.25 = 3.5 or 3.5 feet thick! That is obviously not practical in most scenarios.
Calculate the same 1/4-wave thickness that would be needed to absorb and dissipate 30Hz, and now the absorber material would need to be over 9 feet thick!
Your best bet is to try to find better double-isolation rubber engine mounts that would provide much better isolation and anti-vibration properties between the engine and the hull.
And then, also make the engine compartment 100% air tight and completely enclosed with 1/16"-1/8" thick sheet lead sandwiched betweeen two durable 1/2" thick layers of Closed Cell Foam which will act as a Sound BARRIER.
The sealed sheet lead box acts as both Mass Loading over a large area AND isolates and contains the low frequency vibration and sound energy within the engine compartment.
It's just like the windows in your home or car. When the window is closed completely, the least amount of sound from the other side will be heard.
But open that same window even a little bit with just a narrow gap and exponentially more sound will make it to your ears. ANY amount of actual air transfer between one side and the other results in a significant transfer of the sound waves and energy.
Obviously, due to the heat that is generated by your engine and the exhaust system, it would be impossible to completey seal the engine compartment.
You would need a pair of thick, heavy 4" or larger diameter cast iron pipes covered with exterior sound blankets combined with constant forced air flow via a fan to act as a fresh/cool air intake and heat + noise exhaust to an exterior area that is away from the living areas of the cabin in order to expel the heat and isolate and reduce the low frequency energy within the cabin.
And wherever those heavy pipes pass through an interior bulkhead and/or the hull to the exterior, they would need to be isolated from transfering their vibrational energy to the bulkheads and hull...i.e. a thick rubber or silicone gasket seal around each pipe where it makes a pass-through or penetration.
A rebuilt engine that is "balanced & blueprinted" or different engine and exhaust system altogether that produces much less vibration and low frequency sound energy is the ideal solution, combined with new engine mounts with better isloation.
There is also a non-hardening clay-type product called Duct-Seal that is available at your local hardware stores in the electrical department or online. It is used to make air- and water-tight seals in electrical conduit and wiring pass-throughs in beams and bulkheads.
If used to seal open holes or gaps, this might help to keep the vibrational energy in the engine compartment from escaping towards the cabin and living areas.
In addition to the excellent suggestions above, you could try installing a crankshaft damper to help reduce engine vibrations. Fluidamper makes them for a wide range of engines. You likely can find one that fits.
Better engine mounts can reduce vibration. Look for mounts designed for industrial generators or other equipment. In the industrial world, it's common to use a dual dampening solution. The equipment is mounted (with dampening mounts) to a sled with is then mounted on a flexible base (of different density than the equipment mounts)
If your engine is being run primarily to provide electrical power you can always look at installing a smaller dedicated generator, alternative charging (solar, wind, prop-driven generator, etc,), or a larger battery bank to cut down on engine runtime.
I've heard that using heavy-duty winter mats can cut down noise compared to the stock fabric mats. Have you tried this?
The thicker the material the better sound deadening
silly
Living up in cold Canada, any suggestions for a the spray brand? Wondering if that coating will stand up in the extreme cold
The trunk matters in hatchback
How long does that spray on deadener last? Would it be best to to use something like Kilmat instead?
They claim it can last the life of the car depending on where it’s applied. It won’t last as long If it’s exposed to the elements and road debris. Just make sure the surface is clean and dry before applying the spray. Best of luck!
I just did kilmat to my jeep and it has made a significant difference
Great video..thanks😊
Is there an effect of these materials on the heat of the car ? for example a car parked under the sun and has noise-sealing materials for example( in the roof, in the hood, and in the doors), won't it heat up the vehicle more ? and also it's not take the car get rid of the heat more slowly on a hot day?
you are right about that. I have a VW T5 panelvan, i insulated it as much as possible. If i park my car on a hot day, windows into the sun, it gets as hot as a regular car and cooling down takes alot of time. Otherwise when i place the isulation corvers on my windows, it stays cool. In a cold winter day when using the heating, interior stays warm for a long period. Killed the noise in my van alot
Hey, people. What did you/he install into the doors? It seems like you cut pieces all by yourself. What a material is it? Ty
You can add kilmat to the hood and then reinstall the insulator again above the kilmat?
Absolutely. Sound deadening material is thin. Stick it on (use small roller) to fully adhere. Then reinstall factory hood pad.
What are those strips of insulation papers with the logos called ?
Great video, which sound deadening spray do you suggest? I just got a new Camry and there's really not too much road noise but I think the little bit that there is, is coming from the wheel wells. What was the foam you used on the doors, I may use that under my hood. Thanks!
Noxudol 3100
use cld/ccf, not spray.
Why we stick it under the hood, is this like heat/fire proof?
I moved into an apartment close to a busy street. The noise from cars, motorcycles, etc. is quite bothersome. Do you have any ideas on how I can soundproof the apartment?
I'm renting it, so soundproofing walls or replacing the windows (which are triple glazed, but not soundproof) are not an option. What can I do? External shutters? Maybe acoustic panels?
He has already made a few videos on how to add sound deadening to an apartment.
Dual pane windows
Thick sound deadening curtains, acoustic panels everywhere, that’s about it really
My brother in law gives drum lessons in his rented apartment, he lined the 4 walls of the teaching room with those 12x12 egg cartons, the drum noise is cancelled out and you can barely hear the drums from the next room. He used blutack to attach the egg cartons to the wall because it usually comes off without removing the paint on the wall. You can cover the egg cartons with some wall sheeting if you don't like the look of them.
What are your thoughts regarding cutting thin strips of the sound deadening and attaching them to various arms on the suspension? And also the struts. Just to quell any small road noise that might be transmitted to the body from there?
No way bro lol that would be a complete waste
never
Wouldn't the same reduction in noise levels be achieved if the sound absorbing material be added in specific areas of a car, like wheel wells, engine compartment, and firewall? I noticed that the early model Lexus cars had similar sound absorbing material that looked like Dynamat that were cut into small sections and placed in certain areas in the cabin. My guess is that their sound engineers knew how to target very specific points within the cabin to reduce noise. I've seen other videos where people ensconced the entire cabin with sound deadening material and with very disappointing results. Therefore engineers know what they are doing with small swatches of Dynamat although it looks like they're being cheap with the sound proofing. The 1977 Lincoln Versailles boasted a sound deadening feature where the shocks were double isolated. Maybe experimenting with adding rubber insulators where the spring contacts the body of the car or strut housing? Tires also play a significant role in road noise, especially if they have an aggressive tread for winter driving or they are constructed for longer wear.
I recently added a sport exhaust to my BMW Z4. The idea was to improve the sound, and I accomplished the job.
The original exhaust, had a fairly large muffler box, which were replaced by two individual smaller muffler cans. The issue is that under acceleration, it's somewhat booming, but under regular cruising, no booming, which is great.
I am thinking that where the back box was located, it has now become a cavernous void that is transferring sound inside the car. Would it help to put sound deadening material in this area? How well does the material stick to an exterior portion of the car? Technically it's below the trunk area so I'm thinking the sound transfers from outside into the trunk and into the occupant area.
pointless to use deadening outside except on wheel wells. Use extra on floors in trunk and inside. de-greasing and cleaning properly near impossible for it to stay stuck in that exhaust location.
You didn't use any on the roof. I find a lot of noise comes from the roof, especially when it's raining. Using it on the roof makes driving in the rain much more pleasant.
very little effectiveness soundproofing roof, unless for rain.
Did you add deadener under the rear deck? That's where trunk noise would get through
Does it affect heating dissipation in the hood?
Hi , can you or anyone else give advice on how to use a sound deadener on something like a countertop waterpik? I realize the actual sound will still be audible when turned on but will layering the deadening material at least reduce the noice that comes from the contact the bottom of the wapterpik on the counter ?
like your video what is the best affortable MLV?
it's all garbage.
Would you soundprroof the back of a hatchback? Just because the trunk area is open?
Yes, a hatchback is worth it because it’s more open than a car trunk.
Need link to doing floor.
This usually only alters frequency of the noise. You need foam on top of it and even massloaded vinyl on top of the foam. Vinyl needs to be insulated mechanically from the butyl-rubber. Foam absorbs noise quite well in its own. Just doing butyl like this is insufficient.
mlv is garbage, hear and repeat. cld/ccf combo.
Why in the world wouldn't you do the trunk, that's usually the worst area in any car because of the subs being located in the rear of the vehicle? I know you want to eliminate any extra noise in the interior, but the trunk area I think needs more attention in most cases than the rest. I'm not saying to not do the interior, but I've always had more noise internally and externally coming from the rear.
hey quick question here. to sound proof a window. by doing a window insert which stuff with rock wool sound insulation wont help too much right? because i just did one, i even have 1 layer of 1 inch plywood in it. and i cant even feel any improvement, is it because i have some very tiny gap in between the insert and the window frame? so the sound pass through those gap,i need to have a rubber surround around the insert like indow window insert or the window insert just wont work.
thank you
What if you did sound deaden material on the floor of the car then went underneath and speared the bottom of the car with sound deadens.
no, exterior deadening is pointless except under wheel wells. double up under carpet.
The Care Care Nut had an episode which an old Lexus was stripped off, seats, carpets & etc, to give a complete cleaning.
There are only patches of sound insulation dampener in it. I think it cover not more of 25% of the Lexus body inside surface area. 🤔🤔🤔🤔.
Maybe accurate location for, application of the 25% of sound deadener, could reduce NVH by >50%?.👍👍👍👍. Regards.
Soundproofing a sedan trunk won't make a difference, sure, because you're already separated from the cargo compartment, but for vans, hatchbacks, station wagons/estates/combi vehicles I think it's a different story. At least when it comes to the trunk/boot floor.
I spent a lot of time sound insulating my car which had pretty much next to none insulation. I used only the first step insulation like in the video. I actually never understood that it needed more layers of other materials. I can´t really imagine to do it all over again right now.
Was my effort in vain?
I´m driving witehout several door panels now so I haven´t heard any difference obviously
both cld and ccf is needed
Wich one cheap? I need very cheap soundproof
You need to research the difference between “sound deadening” and “sound insulation.” They are very different products principles!
How about wind noise?
POV: you have 12inch subwoofers in the trunk.
I had a question, I just did my tirearch, i've put sound deadening + closed cell foam , however a mechanic friend of mine said this can only be done inside, if i did it outside, it will absorb moisture and develop rust, when I put the material on, the paint was intact coz the car is new, so I think it should be ok? i tried to search can you do it outside and foudn your video to suggest it can be done on outside? what is your recommendation? thanks a lot
close cell foam are closed celles they dont absorb any water, same goes for deadening
you never soundproof from outside except wheel wells as they have covers that go over material.
My cars doors have airbags in them. Pain to open them up.
Broken clips and left over clips will create vibrations.
Wouldn't lining my car with rubber or something dense help more than actually applying this sticky rubber to the actual metal? Like just thick car mats
It would help but the sticky park makes it so it absorbs the vibrations a lot better than just laying some rubber overtop it. Both methods will help but the sticky part helps with vibrational road noise.
@@soundproofguide where is the ford excursion you have in this videos thumbnail preview?
wouldn't help at all.
How much does it cost.?
Got extremly cheap foil topped butyl foam stuff material off temu. Like suspiciously cheap...any experience with that stuff?
So i only have it on the roof right now lol (cause i did the starlights in headboard.) It made the subwoofer sound a lot better. But road noise seems almost the same....maybe a little quiter? But that could be placebo effect.
Gonna do the floor. I suppose i will let yall know.
How is it so far?
@thelifeofaboi2693 it works really well! I noticed a difference in noise for sure. I did the cheap temu foil lined butyl rubber. And then I did a layer of non foil butyl rubber from Amazon. 30 buks for 24 sqft.....
Is it worth the money that I spent? Oh yeah. But I would absolutely not pay full price for this. It works I guess. But it's not like I'm in a soundproof room all the sudden. If the car is easy enough to take carpet out. It's worth getting the cheaper foil stuff.
But I've only had experience with this these two products. I would really have no way of knowing if it's good compared to name brand...but I could totally tell a difference in quality of the butyl rubber between temu and Amazon stuff. Amazon stuff was more dense. And at times the temu butyl rubber looked like it was melting off paper. But it does the job.
@@Nolen_Sorento thanks for update!
Sound travels it will find gaps
and yet no sound meter was used.
Bulk head and dash panel outer n inner sound be sound damping than c the difference.
Maserati Quattroporte V8 drivers just light and start their mighty V8 😅
Did you forget the roof?
There is a difference between deadening and dampening, suggest you learn the difference.
Where the f sound meter part is
My civic comes with sound deadening
It's like Chinese Medicine, every doctor has different diagnostics for the same symptom and every doctor has different opinion about the medicine. All claim that their solution are all about experience of decades of practice yet the effectiveness are all depending on the patients themselves. 😂
Done right, it turns a rattle trap into a solid sounding car. For what cars cost they shouldn't sound like cheap pieces of sh*t but such is life.
Your material prices are 2 elevated, a lot of debting noise up there.
Do not do it to engine compartment. Engines need to get rid of heat not retain it unless live in Siberia climate which 99.9% do not.
Research tires before you buy and don’t cheap out.
Agreed! Tires are the only thing between you and the road and not enough people take them seriously.
Is your "screwing with the vehicle" rated R ? 🤔
X
@@soundproofguide