How to Remove a Stuck Rotor - 5 Methods
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 7 июл 2024
- Five different methods on how to remove a stuck or seized rotor. I did run into quite the problem with the Dodge, so I’ll go through the basic methods first, then working up harder methods using more tools. This applied to rotor setups where the rotors and hubs are separate assemblies. #brakes #maintenance #mechanic
Website: 4diyers.com
Patreon: / 4diyers
Facebook: / 4diyers
Twitter: / 4diyers
Instagram: / 4diyers
Tumblr: / 4diyers
Pintrest: / 4diyers
Tools/Supplies Needed:
-ball-peen hammer
-penetrating oil
-wire brush
-puller
-bolts
Procedure:
Method #1
Using a ball-peen hammer, a medium-sized version would be the safest choice, hit between the wheel stud locations. A medium version will have enough weight but will fit comfortably between the wheel studs. Do no hit outside of this area as you can damage the rotor. You can install the lug nuts or rubber hose cuts over the studs to protect them if you wish. A few hits should help break it loose. Sometimes you can apply penetrating oil around the wheel lug locations and bore of the rotor. Even letting the oil soak overnight may help break up the corrosion bond. You’ll notice right away when the rotor breaks free and then you can finally remove it.
Method #2
This applies to rotors equipped with the parking brake assembly and this will be equipped on the rear wheels and you’ll see the parking brake cable entering the brake shield on the rear. Locating the rubber access cover, remove that and then using a standard screwdriver or a brake tool, you’ll need to back off the shoes on the inside. Depending on the vehicle, they may turn a different direction for each side. With the Dodge, this wasn’t the case, on one side it was located at the top and on the other it was located at the bottom. Closing in the shoes will allow the rotor to be removed if there is a lip on the inside braking surface. You should be able to rotate the wheel freely if it’s not, then the pads could be engaged, something is binding up, or the pads are rusted to the braking surface on the rotor.
Method #3
A similar type of idea to a puller, but if you don’t have a puller, using the caliper carrier mounting points, find suitable bolts with washers, and nuts, this will help you get a push on the rotor. If you are keeping the rotors, I would recommend putting a barrier between the bolt and rotor so no marring is caused by the bolt. Use both, while there is quite a bit of pressure on this assembly when braking, it’s more of a rotational direction and being that these are typically a cast design, don’t get too carried away where you may crack and break these mounting points.
Method #4
Next is using a puller. A puller can also be used on the rotors without a parking brake assembly. I was only able to rotate the rotor a small amount, not a full revolution which means something is binding up in behind. You’ll need a large enough puller set up for this, there are various types of pullers available. There should be an indentation on the center of the hub for the cone on the center bolt to lock into. Lock the jaws on the outside edge of the rotor, it’s best to go on the backside of the rotor if possible, here I couldn’t do that. It’s important to apply oil to the threads of the center bolt, then tighten the puller. If it does come off when tightening, then hit the center bolt of the puller with a hammer. These rotors are being replaced so I’m not worried about damaging them. Therefore I tried to hit the rotor on the backside with this pressure from the puller, this will help assist it off. Tighten the puller when needed so it applies constant force.
Finally, after it was dark, I got the rotor off. In this situation, the parking brake shoes actually separated from the frames and the shoes jammed on each other, not allowing me to remove the rotor easily.
Method #5
This is after trying at least the first two methods. Cutting off the mounting pins for the shoes which will be visible on the mounting plate from the rear. You can either drill them or grind them off using a carbide bur bit. With the mounting pins disconnected, while all the other hardware is still there, the pads can have some movement and collapse slightly. Typically I like to avoid heat so it doesn’t risk damaging the bearing assembly. In a worst-case scenario if all else fails is cutting up the mounting plates, just make sure new ones can be purchased for your vehicle.
Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week!
© 4DIYers 2013
All Rights Reserved
No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author. 
Авто/Мото
Amazon Tool Recommendations: amzn.to/3QrjM8c
Current retailers partnered with me & coupon codes:
eManualOnline website: shrsl.com/3vcz4
Coupon Code: 4DIYERS20 (20% off any order)
ECS Tuning Website: bit.ly/46tMpXP
Auxbeam website: auxbeam.com/?ref=4DIYERS
Coupon code: 4DIYERMR10 (10% off any order)
Teslong website: teslong.com
Coupon code: 4DIYERS (10% off any order)
Lanmodo website: shrsl.com/3vczf
Coupon code: LMD4DIYERS (Save $50 off order)
Auxito website: www.auxito.com/?ref=xR3VZnDW
Coupon code: 4DIYERS (15% off any order)
Headlight Revolution website: www.headlightrevolution.com
Coupon code: 4DIYERS (Free shipping on all US orders)
God Lord, please don’t let me have to do step two through five please this is your humble servant, and secondly bless this young man sitting out here in the snow doing this job so he doesn’t get screwed over by pocket eating mechanics😂🇺🇸🙏🏽
Thank you!
🤣 and Amen 🙏🏼✌🏼🥰
It really helps when I remember to not leave the parking brake on. Lol.
Aaaah 😀
I actually love this comment cuz I’ve been at it for an hour
The bolt and washer method using an impact driver worked for me. It worked GREAT! I don't think anything else would have worked, unless I had one of those rotor pullers. I wish I had the bolts from the get-go, as I could have shaved hours off the job had I used that method first. I used 7/16 diameter as they were the thickest that woukd still fit through the hole. The rotors were stuck on so tight that the threading on the bolts actually got damaged as by the forces if the inpact driver. So, make sure you have some extra nuts/bolts. I was elated that this worked. It saved me from having to take my car back to the shop again.
Great video. Short bur very detailed and enough differrent methods for anyone to understand
Thank you so much, I really appreciate the feedback!
Excellent. Great idea using the bracket and I installed lug nuts while pounding outside to be safe. I just had to pound on mine for a minute with my BFH and it freed up.
Method #3 was my saving grace! I sent two hours trying to get it off an hammering the rotor (I am replacing it). Thanks for your help!
Right on, happy I could help!
The method #3 save me after trying all the others options. Thank you so much!
Awesome to hear and happy I was able to help!
Just took a 50lb steel dumbell tap and it popped right off. I called a Street mechanic i know 😂😂
Method 3 worked for me and took seconds to remove the rotor after I had already spent a full hour hammering the rotor using a sledge style hammer with no luck. The rotor looked like Swiss cheese with all that hammering so I never imagined that bolt method would work, but I tried it anyway and HOLY GOD !!! It took seconds and just a few turns of the ratchet to get that all so soothing POP of the rotor breaking loose. THANK YOU !!!!!
Awesome to hear you got it and thank you for the feedback!
I used method 3 using just one bolt to push from the rear. The rotor came right off. Thank you for the tip.
Awesome to hear and happy I was able to help!
#6: (Related to #3) In that same gap where the bolt is attempting to do the
spreading in #3, I used a steel wood-splitting wedge: tap it in with a hammer,
tap it sideways to remove, rotate the wheel, do it again, etc. It took
about 20 minutes, but gradually worked the rotor off without bending the
caliper bracket mounts.
Nice tips thanks! I saw a guy who built a small fire under his to basically cook the rotors for about an hour! He needed to replace top bearings anyways
Living in New England with salted roads means dealing with stuck rotors. very often the bolt holes to help you remove the rotor were rusted beyond use. I used to spend a lot of time teasing and tapping, heating with torches, I’ve developed a technique using a carbide tipped blade on a SawsAll. Position the rotor so you can saw through the rotor right down to the hub flange and make a cut so that the hub flange just visible. Obviously don’t cut any lines, wires or suspension pieces. Then with an angle grinder extend that line across the face of the rotor to the hub flange. Remove most of the metal but be careful not to cut down into the flange. At this point a very small amount of brittle cast iron is holding the rotor on. Take a cold chisel or a heavy screwdriver and tap it into the cut forcing the rotor to expand. You will hear a metallic clink as the rotor splits. Takes about 10 minutes a side once you know what you’re doing.
Excellent tip and thank you for sharing!
I have always worried that striking the rotor with a heavy sledge would do damage the bearings in the hub
You don’t mess around. A sawsall. Now that’s nasty. I love it.
Awesome!
The bolt method saved my day
The best rotor removal video I’ve seen yet
Excellent to hear and thank you!
Great and clear video!!!
Thank you!
Great vid. Sometimes just putting the lug nuts back on will loosen it up. A version of Method 3 I guess. Thanks again! This helped!!!
Thank you!
The method 2 is good. The only problem it is difficult to see where is the mecanism. What i did to see better is to drill a bigger hole. This way i could see where it is and i removed the rotor easy. Thanks for the video from Canada
I saw a vid where you run the engine with tires off and apply brakes in forwards a reverse. Note the stud position against the disc this may twist the disc on the hub just enough to free it gonna try it today. Be sure your in two wheel drive or jack all four wheels off the ground. Great vid I used the puller with sucess. Wish I had loosened the e brakes first though. I broke the pads as well. Thank you for making this.
Thanks man, lots of new simple ideas I hadn’t thought of on my own! 🤙🏼
Happy to help!
You just saved my life
I used method #3 to free my rear rotors on a 2014 ram 1500. Thank you!!!
Awesome to hear and you are very welcome!
Thanks man!!!
Thanks for the tips!
No problem!
I used method 3 a couple times, and it worked great, but after doing it, I thought I could have easily broken off one of the caliper mounting points. I thought it might be better to attach a steel bar that spanned both mounting holes, and then use a single bolt in the center of the bar to press against the rotor. This should divide the pressure on each mounting hole in half. I also use one of the brake shoes against the rotor to protect the rotor from bolt damage.
Thank you so much! Really saved my ass
No problem, happy I could help!
Just tried the bolt trick on my rav4 and ended up breaking the bolt. What ended up working was spraying the crap out of the rotors with pb blast penetrateing oil and hitting the back with a big hammer.
Thank you for your videos I watched several you did a great job.i own a 99put 70000 miles on it In 3years put a thermostat, alternator, battery,tires and filled my ac myself I can't find a passenger side tail light .
You're very welcome and thank you so much for the feedback!
A very good way is to use an air hammer with a flat hammer face, and go around the rotor hat in between the studs, if a rotor is stuck this bad then replacing it is better anyway, you can use the air hammer around the rotor surface, this really loosens the rust, than a sledgehammer on the back side if the air hammer hasn't done the trick. I have a 7-ton rotor and drum puller for the stubborn ones. Very handy in the rust belt. The only place the rotor is stuck is the centre hub .
Method #6 - Set the dang thing on fire and roast marshmallows.
Thank you helped me 100% on my commodore!
Awesome to hear! Wish we had Commodores over in Canada.
Loved it!
Thank you!
Very good, thank you!
Thank you!
At 2:40 method 3 and PB Blaster overnight did the trick. I was certainly concerned about breaking the ears off the hub, but not much pressure required and ping she was free.
Awesome to hear and thank you for the feedback!
When nothing else worked, this trick dd it for my badly stuck rotor: I put the wheels on with loosened stud-nuts and gently lowered my vehicle over a cinder block positioned under the tire but only half-way under the tire. This uneven positioning put enormous stress on the stuck rotor and that did the job when nothing else worked (I had already tried some of the methods in this video).
Thank you for sharing that tip! Didn’t even think of that one myself.
Thank you
Removing the rear brake drum can be a beast! Using a small piece of 2x4 wood positioned at the outside upper edge of the roto, then giving the wood a good firm wack with a heavy mallet or sledgehammer. Rotate the brake Roto and repeat this several times. This process will eventually break the bottom edge loose
I like it. But would like a clearer description to picture terms: "outside upper edge","Rotate" (about how many degrees?), "bottom edge".
@@georgehughes2576 : I mean the top of the surface that normally has the tire mounting lugs. Rotate about 30 degree intervals.
That was more helpful then the video. Thanks buddy
How do I remove rear rotor on Nissan titan when emergency brake is rusted to inside of rotor? Nissan doesn't have any back access, like a peep hole to adjust emergency brakes. Help!
If the drum has threaded holes on the front, you can thread bolts through them to help push off the rotor.
What size screws goes in there though?! Ha ha couldn’t find one of those little screws. I heard one video say M8 1.25 mm still searching.
The 3rd method is fucking genius gonna use it for sure
Thank you!
Thx 4 sharing 👍
Irvin piggy oth Tito tut 6th
Releasing the parking brake did the trick. ;)
Right on, awesome to hear!
Lol
Thank you. From my friend, not me lol.
OMG I’m such an idiot. That also worked for me as soon as I read this 🤦🏽♂️
Bit late to the party.. no access to pins from behind and my retentioner is rusted out, any ideas? How much would i break if I just smashed it off?
Thank you very much
You're welcome!
Hey what about a rear rotor for a 2007 Toyota 4Runner? Idk how to take it off
pulling out while tapping in with a hammer worked for me. Once it was wiggling, it could be wiggled until it was unstuck.
Happy to hear you got it apart.
Love the channel been a big fan since the early days keep up the great work! I had a quick question I know this is off topic but I need help, if anyone here or you can point me in the right direction it would help me a lot.
Heres whats going on, I have a 1991 jeep cherokee 4.0. 217,000 k miles on it, it was burning oil so I had no choice but open it up and see what is going inside.
Took off the head saw bad burnt values so I started with the head took them all out cleanded them up and did value job with compound and that rubber tool to re seat them everything looked perfect after that seat was perfect also value steams where changed few months before this so they looked OK. After the head I saw the block walls where smooth with no cross patterns left, so I took all the pistons out rings where not stuck or brunt they moved freely, next I re hoaned the walls to make the crisscross pattern I removed all the rings and cleaned all pistons up everything was super clean and rings where moving like they where new I also replaced the piston bearings cause they showed sign of wear. Before I put everything back I did a simple test put one piston in and poured oil on top of it to see if oil would drop through the rings left it for 2 days no oil went through I did the same test before I did the hoan and clean up of piston rings and oil fell through within hours. So I thought this was a good sign. after hoaning and ring clean up I believed rings where tight and no blow by was going to happen. Then I put everything back in. the car stared perfect and I thought everything was great then I did compression test each read same reading 125.125.125.125.124 126.
So I drove it about 100 miles and oil was below safe line, OKi though maybe the rings need time to set in new block walls but no 1000 miles later I'm burning even more oil then before almost a whole quart every 70 miles that's really really bad.
My mistake I feel is because I didn't replace the piston rings ? But they looked totally fine and where moving with ease.
Please what do you think I did wrong here? I don't want to give up on this jeep but this is crzy how much oil it's going through I'm willing to take it apart again trying to fix it, currently it has good power no blue smoke but the oil I just disappearing. Sorry this is so long but I'm so lost and any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you so much for the support :) Did you also replace the valve seals? Did you match up all the rings with their original pistons and cylinders? The compression definitely seems low and you can determine if it's a ring issue if you add a small amount of oil to each of the cylinders and redo the test. If there was no visible concerns with the block, I would have left it as is. It really depends how worn the engine is as how it'll take new rings. After usage, especially on a higher mileage engine, the cylinders will lose their roundness and unfortunately new rings won't always solve the low compression. I'm not sure what Jeep calls for acceptable specs, but if it met within those numbers, then you can get away with rings. Outside of those specs, the block would need to be machined, either bored over or sleeved. For that much oil, I would expect to see blue smoke. Have you been noticing any oil dripping on the ground or residue on the engine? If you haven't already, I'd recommend pressure washing the engine so a leak would be easier to spot. A dye can also be used to spot an external leak. You may even have a leak between the coolant and oil passages in the head gasket. In that case you'd see milky oil, discoloured coolant, and that should show up in a cooling system pressure test. Also check the plugs for any irregular discolouration indicating that it's burning oil and even bore scope the intake above the valves for any oil residue. Another issue can also be the pcv system. Hopefully my info helps.
@@4DIYers thank you for the helpful information. I didn't replace the rings because when I took it apart and I thought they where stuck but they where moving freely.... However the cycinder walls where smooth with no cress cross left, so I honed all of them and I put in piston back in and filled the top with oil to see if it would go through and it didn't for 3 days I did the same test before the Hon and oil leaked right through. So that's why I didn't buy new rings but maybe it's the rings? Oil is not milky no leaks on the ground no oil in the coolant pcv is clean, I don't understand no blue smoke also it's crazy I'm burning a quart maybe more every 70 miles. Could the pistons be worn out? And the rings are bad? Car has 217000 miles it's a, jeep its supposed to last longer then this. If I do the sleeves do I have to buy new pistons? And new, rings? I've never done that before
@@4DIYers I can’t even get the passenger side back #6 spark out. All kinds of tools and extensions but can’t get that spark plug out.
Step one should be to check and see if there is a bolt holding the rotor to the hub assembly. My wife's 2016 Buick Verano has a t30 bolt which I overlooked.
Thanks for this vidéo, Nice to know we have options, but really tapping between the lugs should be sufficient, but needs constant tapping (like 5 minutes) when IT Moves you then start tapping from the back
"should" ...but unfortunately doesn't work for my rotor.
@@LastBastian i thought that too,.keep tapping repeatedly
@@jonathanc8513 Thanks, but gave up on the hammer. Just got back from the hardware store with bolts and nuts, going to try that.
My rear truck rotors, pretty sure the inner drums are seized up beyond hammer time fixing . 😖
My dumbass thought the bolt holding the entire assembly needed to be removed. Blew my shoulder, back, sternum, knees, hammy, and neck trying to unlodge that bih.😂. Let me just go and pull the rotor out lol😅
Sheet metal to use floor jack on gravel; nice!
It's actually heavy duty plastic and thank you!
There is a huge puller tool option out there also. But $$$$$
... If it's a front wheel hub with studs take off the hub and drop it upside down on the concrete on the studs...works
Thanks man, hammer method worked for me. He a rotor that had seized
Right on, awesome to hear!
What if the plate part of the rotor is broken (on both sides) and all that’s left is the “drum” part of the rotor?
A puller might be your best option then.
Yes I have a easy way but a little dangerous. loosen off all nuts just a little bit. Leave tire on and drive over a bumpy road. Check frequently. This has worked several times when all else fails.
Won't you damage your studs possibly ?
I take a Sawzall and cut the rotors into quarters. Outside to close to the bolt holes. Not too close to the hub. Hammer them & they will come off in chunks
Great tip, thanks for sharing!
No you don't hahaha
I used a torch. Heat the hat edge for couple of minutes white rotating it slowing. Then wack it with a hammer. It' will just pop off.
For anyone that is a bit dense like me make sure you’ve the handbrake off as that also causes it to stick on 😂
Great tip, thanks for sharing!
If it's over 150k miles on and you still wanna keep it running just buy the hub assembly.
They are not meant to last, you don't want it to give up while driving or away from home.
Good video. But, none of them worked for my Jeep JK. Had to take my vehicle to the dealership.
And fet the job done.
And get the job done
thanks for the video, but you could damage the rotors if you hit the surface where brake pads will installed? or not?, right?
You're welcome. Yes you can damage the braking surface if hit with a hammer.
Wow! I can’t believe how stupid I am, as a
Habit I always put on my emergency brake. I was fighting my rotor until I watch this video and realized my emergency brake was on them. As soon as I removed it rotor came off.
Rotors with drums are another story, but disc only rotors usually come off with enough hits of a hammer. Sometimes it takes a while and makes lots of noise that disturbs neighbors, so I'm considering a new approach next time. Put the lug nuts on loosely. Then lower the car to rest the rotor on the ground. If the car's weight doesn't pop it, rock the wheel on the other side to put side loads on your rotor. It should snap free. This is how I deal with getting stuck wheels off. Loosen each lug nut one turn, then rock the car while it's still on the ground. Beats smashing at your wheel with a hammer.
Would that not damage the rotor or any other part for that matter? Are you sure of this method?
@@canam2436 I almost think if you were only lowering it gradually it should be fine, kinda worried about the studs tho
I wrapped a winch cable around it then pulled on it
16 grenades placed in a star pattern.
Works every time. You have to replace some other parts, though. Especially the ones that you can't find in the immediate area.
Dodge.
Ram it! It can't dodge forever.
Didn't work for me, was rusted and bonded together, so i used a plasma cutter
Kettle of boiling water,
Why do I keep seeing Dodge products with this problem
Probably just coincidental. The previous owner has a boat which most likely explains the rusty rear brakes.
I used butter.
No sound
Did you turn the volume on? Sound works fine for me.
ball peen hammer didn't work. Sledge hammer did the trick.
None of the above worked. I will try to put my Mazda 5's tire back on with loosened lug nuts and lower it. If that doesn't work I will need to just throw in the towel and let a real mechanic do the job.