Dear Martin: At first i thought „man, this HUGE building ist going to block half of the view of the tank.“ And now im thinking „man, this tank is going to block some parts of the building“. Very well done!
Amazing, just amazing, in the bonsai world, we get rid of the wood fuzzies by lightly burning it with a butane torch, it might work for the balsa wood too?
Just a note on bricks, like everything in history they vary with time and place. A rough rule of thumb is that the earlier the brick the longer it is and a late 1700s brick would be about 10% longer than a modern brick. Yeah, I know this is rivet-counting but it's something I picked up in architectural history and it's here to be used or ignored.
@@mpk6664 Honestly I'm not sure. I think it was firing techniques may have been different. I think also modern brick sizing which seems to have stabilised around the late 1800s is more robust, there seems to be less cracking of the bricks. But then again I look at the amazing Flemish brick castles and they're standing up just fine :)
@@mpk6664 The width is determined by the fact that it is necessary to hold it easily with one hand The height & length less so important & seemed to be very similar from roman times up until the late 1700s. These were all hand made, so the weight may have been a factor. The main initial reason for the size change in England at least was (according to the Architects Journal), how a new property tax was based on the number of bricks used in a building. Therefore bricks got bigger - so fewer were used. Then parliament taxed larger bricks more, and bricks got smaller again. Eventually the tax was scrapped, and brick size was regulated to 3 or 4 courses per foot depending on location. It remained much the same from 1851 when mass production was started until the metric system was introduced.
Common house bricks in Australia using the metric measurement like most bricks of a similar dimension use a common height (Guage) where they are based off a 2.4m ceiling height. A brick is 76mm + 10mm for a mortar joint (86mm guage) multiply by 7 = 602mm, rounded down to 600mm multiply by 4 = 2.4m . A brick is 230mm in length, divided by 2 = 115mm, half a brick is 110mm. the missing 10mm, 110 + 110 = 220 + 10mm = 230mm is the mortar joint for the perpend (vertical joint). Ergo, a brick is 110 x 76 x 230mm, this is to allow for bonding of the bricks to maintain correct load bearing (half bond) and to enable the half bond to transition a corner. Regardless of bricks being dry pressed (solid, with the indentation called a frog, or extruded, known as wire cut with the holes), bricks can vary up to 10mm in any dimension due to the manufacturing process and how long they are fired for. Hope this helps to understand common brick sizes and dimensions. In bricklaying, we can use a template called a Brick Rod, a length of timber 25x25x2400mm and marked at the appropriate guage, be this bricks, block work etc so to recap, a brick is 230mm + joint 10mm = 240mm, an opening is 240mm + 10mm (the mortar joint at the other end of the brick) = 250mm. The same in the vertical dimension, 10 + 76 + 10mm (the brick and two mortar beds). Again hopefully this helps, especially when you are calculating the size of openings (3D printed windows etc) when working to your scale.
When I looked up common brick sizes in the US there are about 8 common sizes based on 3 or 4 per foot of height. Hey metric is legal here. So no metric jokes. With a 3/8ths allowance for mortar height is 2-5/8 or 3-5/8. Length and widths vary from Econo, 3-5/8 x 3-5/8 x 7-5/8 to widths pretty standard at 3-5/5 and lengths up to 11-5/8. I've been messing with laser engraving brick patterns in HO scale*. The Econo sized bricks are easy to plan out. Best for industrial walls. Residential or business walls are better with longer bricks. One issue with longer bricks is the corners. I can actually cut the brick courses on the ends of the walls and then match fit them on corners. 1mm thick material is pretty close to the scale 3-5/8 plus mortar. Only using illustration board leaves a surface that is very fragile that needs to be re-enforced with some sort of binder. The first ones I actually started with was cinder block embossed into illustration board or 3/32 Basswood. 3/32 comes almost dead on for the 8" height and width. *inspired by ITLA wall modules.
A good tip for keeping stone walls looking random is to randomly carve some large stones in random places on the wall before carving the rest of the stones. The initially random placement means if you start getting uniform, when you hit the randomly carved stone it will throw off your uniform pattern as it won't match up with it.
"The Proxxon isn't tall enough for a two storey building." My surreal imagination backflipped at this statement! The build is just incredible but anything less would look rediculous next to that tank. So excited for the painting stage. Don't go near the foam with a butane lighter!...unless you're making bomb-craters - but a heat gun if used with EXTREME care can texture the stuff, but its SOOO risky. Brilliant work Martin, you're an inspiration to all of us makers and not just the plastic kit modellers.
Love it! I’m planning to make a 2-story Belgian storefront for my future M8 Greyhound diorama. I’ve created a mock-up in CAD, so soon I can print out sheet drawings and cut it out in some foam. Once again, beautiful job! It always amazes me when you transform a block of foam into this very pretty building!
You've got the most important part done, and the rest should be heaps of fun! It's so important to have a sketch in front of you, it makes everything much easier
This is a good reason for why RUclips is a great place! When I was a kid I enjoyed doing things like this but I didn't knew anyone who liked it, I would have loved to find and connect with other likeminded people.
It is always a pleasure to watch Your work. This episode was even better because You made a model without a kit, just by Yourself. It was a plessure to watch what have You done with simple materials that are very common to find, imagination, simple tools, and skilfull hands. Simple but brilliant. Once again you have prooven that: "where there's a will there's a way". Thank You.
Absolutely amazing. The quality of your tutorials are the best on RUclips. I have struggled with this technique for a long time, don't know why as you make it look so easy. I am looking forward to follow this series.
Wow! Not only a wounderful good loocking house… The tutorial is World-class! Every single step is explained in a slow (but not too slow) easy to understand English! Perfect(!!!) Thank you!
Man. I am watching your videos, watching more and more. Hands begin to itch to build models again over few years. You really are inspiration of where you can reach your level if you have patience, time and love for the hobby. I wish you the very best in your life and in everything you do! Thank you for your effort and good luck!
My boyfriend builds plane models and is always showing me your videos. He’s got me hooked even though i’d never have the patience to build them myself.
For the stone textures roll a very small ball of tin (aluminium) foil and glue it to the end of a paintbrush :) Love the look of the diorama, can't wait to see it take shape!
Yep. This is it. I love Styrofoam building. 10 years ago i see this from Jakub Skolil diorama and isn't simplest solution for me and with best resolution. Great job uncle NS! Btw. I love your stamps and another DIY tools for better work.
Just a thought but for bricks and "projecting" sketches/images into foam, what about that stencil paper tattooists use? It can bend to any shape and transfers well!
This looks amazing and promising. I'm just finished a tiny french facade with a boulangerie in 1/72, this could have worked for inspiration. I can't wait to see it painted!
Damn, that is the single most elaborated, detailed and articulated model house I have ever seen. Whats better? It's made almost entirely out of styrofoam.
@@NightShiftScaleModels If you would like to place some kind of object on a tank which in real life has a relatively large volume, but soft, squishy texture which can be deformed easily by various contacts (for ex. a mattress for wathever reason) styrofoam would be the best material to sculpt it out from, since 3D printing it would be, dare I say, too static looking.
@@NightShiftScaleModels Of course, but as you said, there is something special about unpainted stuff, like tanks, especially with armour texture and some PE parts, dioramas that look just like they are done and these buildings :-)
Nice video. Instead of white pva glue, tho, you could also use hot gun glue which melts under the hot wire when dry. I'm not into dioramas but into RC models and for cutting big wings I also use hot wire and for very thick wings I stick the sheets of foam on top of each other and always use hot glue gun when cutting them. Cheers.
Brilliant work, you make carving the foam look so easy, i think it is with your planning, i seem to just go right in, think i need to start planning a little more cant wait for part 2
This is so next level! I built a full size brick wall for my Dr Who Tardis installation and thought I did pretty well. This detail in this work is just so far out near Pluto! Awesome modelling techniques and tips. I'll definitely be watching this and the follow up vid several times! Thank you!
Hi Martin, this has been great to watch and has answered so may questions I would have had otherwise. You break it down in a simple way which certainly makes it easier to follow for those of us that are just starting a first diorama.👍
Well done foam master ! 👍🏻😊 Take your time, not having a strict weekly new video is not a problem, obviously. We are model kit makers, we are patient 😁
I have done a lot of carving of brick and stone in Hydrocal and plaster of Paris but never with foam like this. So thanks for the info, I already ordered a hot wire cutting machine from Amazon and some foam to work with. Looks like fun.
So lucky to use that kind of grey foam that keeps it's shape. We use pink or blue foam here and it has a lot of spring to it so you intend or carve and the foam wants to bounce back.
Very enjoyable Martin! Just love it how a piece of insulation comes to life. I loved the tile/typewriter sequence very much 👌 I am definitely gonna use this styrofoam method on a next build. Starting small of course 👌😄
Fantastic work Martin! A lot of those little hinges and such can be done in cad and printed out with the rest of the door. I’m sure you already thought of it, but on the off chance you didn’t, hopefully it saves you some time down the road!
Fantastic effort. Thank you for posting. I will translate your work down to 1/87 scale for my model railroad. You are truly a Master craftsman. Thanks again for sharing your artistic talents.
I just wanted to let you know that Takom is coming out with a pair of flak towers, if you didn’t know already. I’d love to see what a master could do with one of them. Love the work man. 👍👍
You have some crazy skills man, from the raw material to the end product, it’s amazing man. You have some serious imagination and great visual creativity. Great job man.
Love the attention to detail, this is looking great! You also make it look painless even though I know it must have taken you quite a while to do haha.
Very nice build and great video again, as always! I have one small tip to make your brickwork look even more convincing next time: Most brick walls have a pattern where deliberatley every now and then a half-brick [it's not literally a brick in half, but just a brick layed across a 2-brick wall, short side facing front] was being layed between the bricks - to break up the whole-brick pattern, for stability of construction. There are various patterns with names I can't reproduce on the spot because I'm not a brick layer myself (maybe some one in the comments?).... but check it out! And never mind the various patterns... just sculpting a half-brick every now and then wil do wonders for any modeled brick wall! From the Netherlands, cheerzzz mate!
I know exactly what you mean, there's a huge brick wall with this pattern in my village. Gotta snap a few reference pictures when I'm outside and use that on the next house :)
Think the brick pattern you are talking about is known as 'Flemish bond'. Some other patterns are English bond, Stretcher bond (standard pattern) & Header bond.
It's still quite common even to this day, but mostly on barns. You'll notice it in the reference picture as well :) When the attic was used to store stuff such as grain or flour, it was easier to get these materials there from the outside using a ladder or a rope.
hint for nightshift, try making a punch from an old brush, remove hairs and bend iron part into form of brick, one the size of a brick, other half a brick, makes it easier to make wall faster. ;)
I can imagine how it's not such a common construction material in countries with warmer climate. But it's also used for protecting house foundations against water and erosion, so maybe there's a chance to find it somewhere? :)
@@NightShiftScaleModels Brazil is such a country. In 10 years, i've never seen this anywhere. For now, i'm using foam used in air conditioning, but, the shape and form you coukd only use in small scales.
Thank you so much, Martin, for sharing your skills in modelling from styrofoam. I only recently shifted away from modeling in plastic / styrene only to paper products and wood, but the use of styrofoam in modelling stone structures is fantastic! Thank you for the well-presented explanations, tips, and step-by-step demonstration recorded of your masterpieces becoming reality!
Dear Martin: At first i thought „man, this HUGE building ist going to block half of the view of the tank.“ And now im thinking „man, this tank is going to block some parts of the building“. Very well done!
I wanted to make it extra tall because in the T29 diorama, the whole barn got hidden behind the tank :D
Amazing, just amazing, in the bonsai world, we get rid of the wood fuzzies by lightly burning it with a butane torch, it might work for the balsa wood too?
Balsa is approximately 50% wood fibers /50% air. It burns like nothing else.
That's a cool trick, might work for the harder veneer wood!
@@NightShiftScaleModels don’t night shift. Balsa wood is the type of wood that is most flammable, I don’t recommend it
Wow seeing Nigel Saunders on a Night Shift video... What a fantastic crossover :D
The mild torching works well for “singeing” chickens too. Gets rid of the pin feather fuzzies, lol.
This is my favourite series, and it just gets better!
Can we have a KV-85 next?
I can’t wait to see it paint with the jagdpanther, great job!
Thanks, painting it was soooo much fun!
Just a note on bricks, like everything in history they vary with time and place. A rough rule of thumb is that the earlier the brick the longer it is and a late 1700s brick would be about 10% longer than a modern brick. Yeah, I know this is rivet-counting but it's something I picked up in architectural history and it's here to be used or ignored.
Interesting. Why would this be if you know?
@@mpk6664 Honestly I'm not sure. I think it was firing techniques may have been different. I think also modern brick sizing which seems to have stabilised around the late 1800s is more robust, there seems to be less cracking of the bricks. But then again I look at the amazing Flemish brick castles and they're standing up just fine :)
@@mpk6664 The width is determined by the fact that it is necessary to hold it easily with one hand The height & length less so important & seemed to be very similar from roman times up until the late 1700s. These were all hand made, so the weight may have been a factor. The main initial reason for the size change in England at least was (according to the Architects Journal), how a new property tax was based on the number of bricks used in a building. Therefore bricks got bigger - so fewer were used. Then parliament taxed larger bricks more, and bricks got smaller again. Eventually the tax was scrapped, and brick size was regulated to 3 or 4 courses per foot depending on location. It remained much the same from 1851 when mass production was started until the metric system was introduced.
Common house bricks in Australia using the metric measurement like most bricks of a similar dimension use a common height (Guage) where they are based off a 2.4m ceiling height. A brick is 76mm + 10mm for a mortar joint (86mm guage) multiply by 7 = 602mm, rounded down to 600mm multiply by 4 = 2.4m . A brick is 230mm in length, divided by 2 = 115mm, half a brick is 110mm. the missing 10mm, 110 + 110 = 220 + 10mm = 230mm is the mortar joint for the perpend (vertical joint). Ergo, a brick is 110 x 76 x 230mm, this is to allow for bonding of the bricks to maintain correct load bearing (half bond) and to enable the half bond to transition a corner. Regardless of bricks being dry pressed (solid, with the indentation called a frog, or extruded, known as wire cut with the holes), bricks can vary up to 10mm in any dimension due to the manufacturing process and how long they are fired for. Hope this helps to understand common brick sizes and dimensions. In bricklaying, we can use a template called a Brick Rod, a length of timber 25x25x2400mm and marked at the appropriate guage, be this bricks, block work etc so to recap, a brick is 230mm + joint 10mm = 240mm, an opening is 240mm + 10mm (the mortar joint at the other end of the brick) = 250mm. The same in the vertical dimension, 10 + 76 + 10mm (the brick and two mortar beds). Again hopefully this helps, especially when you are calculating the size of openings (3D printed windows etc) when working to your scale.
When I looked up common brick sizes in the US there are about 8 common sizes based on 3 or 4 per foot of height. Hey metric is legal here. So no metric jokes. With a 3/8ths allowance for mortar height is 2-5/8 or 3-5/8. Length and widths vary from Econo, 3-5/8 x 3-5/8 x 7-5/8 to widths pretty standard at 3-5/5 and lengths up to 11-5/8.
I've been messing with laser engraving brick patterns in HO scale*. The Econo sized bricks are easy to plan out. Best for industrial walls. Residential or business walls are better with longer bricks. One issue with longer bricks is the corners. I can actually cut the brick courses on the ends of the walls and then match fit them on corners. 1mm thick material is pretty close to the scale 3-5/8 plus mortar. Only using illustration board leaves a surface that is very fragile that needs to be re-enforced with some sort of binder. The first ones I actually started with was cinder block embossed into illustration board or 3/32 Basswood. 3/32 comes almost dead on for the 8" height and width.
*inspired by ITLA wall modules.
I'm thinking of having to make a railroad for my Pershing, this'll be both helpful and fun.
Brick train station, yummy
@@NightShiftScaleModels small switch house, definitely a troubling task
A good tip for keeping stone walls looking random is to randomly carve some large stones in random places on the wall before carving the rest of the stones. The initially random placement means if you start getting uniform, when you hit the randomly carved stone it will throw off your uniform pattern as it won't match up with it.
bricks from styrofoam, you are a wonderful person
One of the most therapeutic modeling techniques :)
This is looking incredible. Can’t wait to see the next episode.
Stay safe.
"The Proxxon isn't tall enough for a two storey building." My surreal imagination backflipped at this statement!
The build is just incredible but anything less would look rediculous next to that tank. So excited for the painting stage. Don't go near the foam with a butane lighter!...unless you're making bomb-craters - but a heat gun if used with EXTREME care can texture the stuff, but its SOOO risky. Brilliant work Martin, you're an inspiration to all of us makers and not just the plastic kit modellers.
Love it! I’m planning to make a 2-story Belgian storefront for my future M8 Greyhound diorama. I’ve created a mock-up in CAD, so soon I can print out sheet drawings and cut it out in some foam. Once again, beautiful job! It always amazes me when you transform a block of foam into this very pretty building!
You've got the most important part done, and the rest should be heaps of fun! It's so important to have a sketch in front of you, it makes everything much easier
This is a good reason for why RUclips is a great place! When I was a kid I enjoyed doing things like this but I didn't knew anyone who liked it, I would have loved to find and connect with other likeminded people.
In all of my modeling years,40 of them.I have learned more in the last 6 months watching your videos every Friday.Well done.
Forgot to add how I admire your skill and attention to details! Absolute elite player!
It is always a pleasure to watch Your work. This episode was even better because You made a model without a kit, just by Yourself. It was a plessure to watch what have You done with simple materials that are very common to find, imagination, simple tools, and skilfull hands. Simple but brilliant. Once again you have prooven that: "where there's a will there's a way". Thank You.
Absolutely amazing. The quality of your tutorials are the best on RUclips. I have struggled with this technique for a long time, don't know why as you make it look so easy. I am looking forward to follow this series.
Wow! Not only a wounderful good loocking house… The tutorial is World-class! Every single step is explained in a slow (but not too slow) easy to understand English! Perfect(!!!) Thank you!
Some times I think you sell your self short, your quality of work is outstanding and your channel is one of my favorite shows
Man. I am watching your videos, watching more and more. Hands begin to itch to build models again over few years. You really are inspiration of where you can reach your level if you have patience, time and love for the hobby.
I wish you the very best in your life and in everything you do! Thank you for your effort and good luck!
This is the best foam brick work video I have seen.
Found this channel a few weeks ago and binged all the diorama videos, I'm really enjoying seeing this one come together.
My boyfriend builds plane models and is always showing me your videos. He’s got me hooked even though i’d never have the patience to build them myself.
Thanks for showing how you made that house!
For the stone textures roll a very small ball of tin (aluminium) foil and glue it to the end of a paintbrush :)
Love the look of the diorama, can't wait to see it take shape!
Yep. This is it. I love Styrofoam building. 10 years ago i see this from Jakub Skolil diorama and isn't simplest solution for me and with best resolution. Great job uncle NS!
Btw. I love your stamps and another DIY tools for better work.
Best modelling teacher on RUclips!
Awesome work Martin! I love the optical variety you added with the various types of stone and brick. Look forward to next week, CHEEEERS!!
I just wanted to say that your weekly friday uploads always helps me get through the week
The world is on fire and this channel is my zen! Look forward to kicking back and relaxing with an episode of night shift all week.
Just a thought but for bricks and "projecting" sketches/images into foam, what about that stencil paper tattooists use? It can bend to any shape and transfers well!
Brilliant! This is better than Netflix!
You are a great master man ! Decades into this hobby and still learning with your videos.
Simply stunning! I'm one of those that look forward to Fridays for your videos, keep them coming
Mah friend! It's a joy seeing your skills grow like this! Keep them coming!
This looks amazing and promising. I'm just finished a tiny french facade with a boulangerie in 1/72, this could have worked for inspiration. I can't wait to see it painted!
That must look sweet!
Incredible, just incredible, I am learning a lot and enjoying twice as much. Thank you Martin.
That was one of the most amazing scalemodelling RUclips materials I've ever watched. All the best for You! ;)
Awesome looking model so far, you make it look so easy when in reality it is not. Looking forward to the paint!
Hi Martin, that was a absolutely fantastic tutorial, I am looking forward to when it is finished.
Awesone, as allways! 👏👏👏
For texturing the bricks/rocks, try tapping the foam with the edge of a slightly jagged rock.
Magnifique travail de précision pour cette maison française
I ABSOLUTELY LOVE these building videos, maybe even more than the tanks?
Damn, that is the single most elaborated, detailed and articulated model house I have ever seen. Whats better? It's made almost entirely out of styrofoam.
It's such a great material, I'm starting to think how it could be used in tank modeling! :)
@@NightShiftScaleModels If you would like to place some kind of object on a tank which in real life has a relatively large volume, but soft, squishy texture which can be deformed easily by various contacts (for ex. a mattress for wathever reason) styrofoam would be the best material to sculpt it out from, since 3D printing it would be, dare I say, too static looking.
Incredible work, young man. Very impressive.
Your building making video just show that you aren't just good at armor making, you are a true renaissance man.
Check out the tools from shifting lands for the proxxon, if you think you'll work more with foam in the future.
The grey color of the Foam makes the House look like its made from actual stone! Really like the unpainted form of it, wonderful work uncle!
The grey color is nice and neutral, but I gotta say that buildings made from mint-green Styrodur look a tad more awesome :D
@@NightShiftScaleModels Of course, but as you said, there is something special about unpainted stuff, like tanks, especially with armour texture and some PE parts, dioramas that look just like they are done and these buildings :-)
It came out very nice and I am looking forward to the next one to see it all painted and weathered and I am sure it will look amazing!!
OOOHHH WAOW ! excellent work as usual. BRAVO for this old french house. You're my favorite channel
So glad I found time to watch this Martin. Looking very good. Looking forward to painting and weathering.
Good Day Modelcomrade.
The Building is the Burner..
I hope too see soon the painting work 😎😃😃💪nice weekend
Nice video.
Instead of white pva glue, tho, you could also use hot gun glue which melts under the hot wire when dry. I'm not into dioramas but into RC models and for cutting big wings I also use hot wire and for very thick wings I stick the sheets of foam on top of each other and always use hot glue gun when cutting them.
Cheers.
That looks absolutely fantastic. Can't wait to see it painted!
This must be the single zen-ist thing to do. I'm definitely giving this a shot.great job BTW. Just subscribed.
Dude, you are on another level, I'm impressed
Brilliant work, you make carving the foam look so easy, i think it is with your planning, i seem to just go right in, think i need to start planning a little more cant wait for part 2
That is AMAZING! You've outdone yourself.
This is the only french thing that hasn't disappointed me
Wow that building turned out beautiful
Hey Fella, you forgot the mortar mix between those bricks. Little joke. It looks Awesome!
This is so next level! I built a full size brick wall for my Dr Who Tardis installation and thought I did pretty well. This detail in this work is just so far out near Pluto! Awesome modelling techniques and tips. I'll definitely be watching this and the follow up vid several times! Thank you!
Dear Martin, Outstanding! Best Wishes Johnny
you are the best ..and please make more diorama ..specially buildings
Very impressive modelling and creative use of materials.
this is so satisfying dude. great job
One week = 18 minutes! You are amazing, keep it up! Once it finished, I will want this diorama! 😁
Easily the best thing I ever seen
Stunning- best I've seen on YT.
Hi Martin, this has been great to watch and has answered so may questions I would have had otherwise. You break it down in a simple way which certainly makes it easier to follow for those of us that are just starting a first diorama.👍
Wow, tedious work is an understatement, great work.
Well done foam master ! 👍🏻😊 Take your time, not having a strict weekly new video is not a problem, obviously. We are model kit makers, we are patient 😁
I have done a lot of carving of brick and stone in Hydrocal and plaster of Paris but never with foam like this. So thanks for the info, I already ordered a hot wire cutting machine from Amazon and some foam to work with. Looks like fun.
I lived in France and did a 'real' one - this model is VERY ACCURATE!
So lucky to use that kind of grey foam that keeps it's shape. We use pink or blue foam here and it has a lot of spring to it so you intend or carve and the foam wants to bounce back.
what kind grey foam he use ?
Bonjour
Encore une belle vidéo.
Great works ...
real cool
Hi 😉
For a beginner like me this Video is pure Gold 👍
Thanks a lot
Greetings from Germany 😉👍
This will be very useful in my Targa Florio diorama in 1/43 scale …. Nice to see these methods.
ok this is such an ASMR model channell to me, can't wait to see next steps
Brilliant, simply brilliant. Looking forward to your next video. Thank you very much
His work is truly amazing great work keep it up
Very enjoyable Martin! Just love it how a piece of insulation comes to life. I loved the tile/typewriter sequence very much 👌
I am definitely gonna use this styrofoam method on a next build. Starting small of course 👌😄
MARTIN!!!!!! Looks great, my man!
Fantastic work Martin! A lot of those little hinges and such can be done in cad and printed out with the rest of the door. I’m sure you already thought of it, but on the off chance you didn’t, hopefully it saves you some time down the road!
Fantastic effort. Thank you for posting. I will translate your work down to 1/87 scale for my model railroad. You are truly a Master craftsman. Thanks again for sharing your artistic talents.
I just wanted to let you know that Takom is coming out with a pair of flak towers, if you didn’t know already. I’d love to see what a master could do with one of them. Love the work man. 👍👍
You have some crazy skills man, from the raw material to the end product, it’s amazing man. You have some serious imagination and great visual creativity. Great job man.
Absolutely incredible, thanks for this great tutorial
The time, effort and final result..Absolutely stunning 😍 thumbs 👍👌👏
Absolutely incredible.
I cannot help but envy your skill. Amazing work!
Love the attention to detail, this is looking great! You also make it look painless even though I know it must have taken you quite a while to do haha.
I really enjoy watching these videos, thank you for taking the extra time to share your work with us.
Very nice build and great video again, as always! I have one small tip to make your brickwork look even more convincing next time: Most brick walls have a pattern where deliberatley every now and then a half-brick [it's not literally a brick in half, but just a brick layed across a 2-brick wall, short side facing front] was being layed between the bricks - to break up the whole-brick pattern, for stability of construction. There are various patterns with names I can't reproduce on the spot because I'm not a brick layer myself (maybe some one in the comments?).... but check it out! And never mind the various patterns... just sculpting a half-brick every now and then wil do wonders for any modeled brick wall! From the Netherlands, cheerzzz mate!
I know exactly what you mean, there's a huge brick wall with this pattern in my village. Gotta snap a few reference pictures when I'm outside and use that on the next house :)
👍🏻🤟🏼
Think the brick pattern you are talking about is known as 'Flemish bond'. Some other patterns are English bond, Stretcher bond (standard pattern) & Header bond.
another friday and another awesome video
super work, as usual! Quick question: why did you put a door on the second floor? Was it something common at that time?
It's still quite common even to this day, but mostly on barns. You'll notice it in the reference picture as well :) When the attic was used to store stuff such as grain or flour, it was easier to get these materials there from the outside using a ladder or a rope.
@@NightShiftScaleModels you've done your research, as always ;) Thanks for the answer, and good luck with the end of this project
hint for nightshift, try making a punch from an old brush, remove hairs and bend iron part into form of brick, one the size of a brick, other half a brick, makes it easier to make wall faster. ;)
This is a hard-to-find material here in Brazil, this styrfoam. And for sure makes the scene more realistic and detailed. Conngrats!
I can imagine how it's not such a common construction material in countries with warmer climate. But it's also used for protecting house foundations against water and erosion, so maybe there's a chance to find it somewhere? :)
@@NightShiftScaleModels Brazil is such a country. In 10 years, i've never seen this anywhere. For now, i'm using foam used in air conditioning, but, the shape and form you coukd only use in small scales.
Thank you so much, Martin, for sharing your skills in modelling from styrofoam. I only recently shifted away from modeling in plastic / styrene only to paper products and wood, but the use of styrofoam in modelling stone structures is fantastic! Thank you for the well-presented explanations, tips, and step-by-step demonstration recorded of your masterpieces becoming reality!