I've watched several of these set-up videos and this was the best one by far. I was making sawdust in minutes. The jig is very unforgiving if the wood isn't square and your measurements/setup are off a little. But after a few tries I was able to dial it in. Thanks for sharing the info!!
Excellent demo, kudos for your perseverance. I bought this same jig a couple years ago and returned it. After numerous failures, I discovered that the top surface of the jig was bowed about 1/4" so the horizontal board could never sit flat. You've done an excellent job here. Its just my opinion but I found it was incredibly tedious to set up and very susceptible to user error. I ended up biting the bullet and buying the Porter Cable jig and was SO glad I did. The difference in quality is immediately evident, and jig setup is far easier and more reliable. This is NOT meant to discourage anyone at all from buying the HF jig. Hey - go for it! But if you do, just make sure the top plate is flat before you even try to use it 😀 With this man's great tutorial, and patience (a LOT of it in my opinion) you should be fine.
Break It Yourself there’s just one thing that doesn’t make sense about the manual you posted and what you said in the video. I have a set of guide bushings I bought from Lowe’s and as far as I can tell, they’re labeled according to the size of the opening that allows the bit through. The manual calls for a bushing 7/16” in size and a bit 1/2” in size with a 14 degree pitch. On top of this it has you measure the distance from the router base plate to the tip of the router bit, basically how far it extends out from the base plate. The measurement it calls for is 9/16”. My question is this, how can I have the bit extending 9/16” out from the base plate when the opening on the guide bushing is only 7/16”? It will only allow the bit to be retracted back so far until it hits the side of the bushing opening which obviously is not going to work. I really wish I could figure this out because it’s frustrating the crap out of me and it’s super confusing since my manual calls for a bushing that’s 1/2” which would make tons more sense but then later on in the SAME manual it goes back to saying a 7/16” bushing. Not only this but there’s another you tuber who has a video stating that the manual that comes with the EXACT model jig I have (same as yours btw) is wrong and that it’s definitely a 7/16” bushing that is required, which for the reasons stated above doesn’t make any sense. What am I not getting here?
@@BreakItYourself I bought a dovetail rig and whilst I can join boards edge to edge, I cant make right angle joints, it can clamp both boards at right angles, but the top board stencil is 1.5"' away from the board and no way to rotate it (Like you need a route bit with a very long shaft), any ideas what this type of jig is and what its use is? It looks to be quite old and made in England.
You pretty much covered it..when I bought mine I had to dig for info and combine different tips and advice from several sources to get it dialed in. I also have the same issue with the finger template being slightly bowed. This will save people a lot of time
Thank you to both of you! My finger comb template was also bowed. But I originally misunderstood which item you were referring to as being bowed. I thought you meant the blue clamping bar was bowed. I took the finger template off and clamped to a straight surface. While letting the peak of the bowed point cantilever out in the open, I applied a downward force to the finger template until the bow was removed. Do this with great caution, the aluminum is very brittle and could easily snap in two. Now all the parts are better aligned. Thank you again for the video!
Amazing how you were able to deliver twice as much info in half of the time compared to other videos. Very much appreciated. I see you made half blind dovetails. How would I adjust to make full through dovetails?
Brilliant video. I picked up a flea market jig for $5.00. I have already fixed the reverse levers (both of mine were reversed). I will print the manual you provided a link to as well. I really really appreciate your efforts!
EXCEPTIONAL REVIEW MAN! COULDN'T POSSIBLY IMAGINE IT DONE MORE HELPFUL. Many thanks! Can't wait to try mine. Beautiful ends by the way. I'm not a perfectionist, but enjoy when things work well, and hopefully all this will make things easier for me to make nice ends to tie together with dovetails. Thanks a million again! Keep up the GREAT reviews.
(No clamp needed) I adjusted the down pressure on the finger bar by unscrewing the left side and removing one screw from the right side. Swing the finger bar out of the way. I placed a piece of wood under the steel finder bar holder and bent it down just a little. Put the screws back in and now the finger bar stays in contact with the wood.
Wow I just saw that measuring tool and thought oh no how am I going to measure mine looked infront of me and It was right there in front of me, I got lots of stuff everywhere in my shed I don't know what it does but now I know
It's a clearance item right now. With the sale going on right now is 30% off clearance and 40% off for itc members. So I feel pretty good about this find
You said that the jig raises up in the front when you tighten the workpiece in place. The instruction manual addresses this and says to loosen up your adjustment. If its too tight, it will lift in the front. . If someone else has already said this, I apologize. I didn't read thru all of the comments. Great video. Thank you
Great video. I have had my HF half blind dovetail jig for years and hated it because of the users guide. WIll be looking up the one you mention. Thanks!
All you had to do to get the clamping direction correct is to remove the 2 clamping handles that you just installed from the clamping assemblies and re-insert them in the clamps from the correct side. These clamps are unidirectional otherwise.
From what I've seen online, the one end popping up is a sign that the screws are too tight on that side. Loosening the screw that holds down the workpiece clamp by about a half turn should get rid of that pull without significantly loosening the clamp.
Check the hold down clamp I automatically switched mine only to find out it came correct. Did you de-burr your pin plate? Mines pretty rough nothing a file and some sand paper can’t handle just wondered if it effected your cuts.
I have a Bosch Colt palm router. It has a rectangular (not exactly square). The setup on the Harbor Freight Dovetail jig asks for the distance from the pit to the edge of the base plate. How do I d come up with the radius of a rectangle?
Thanks. Looks like the outside of the box (drawer etc) faces toward the jig. The other manual was helpful especially regarding size of bushing guide and router bit size
Thanks for the video. I'm trying to learn to do more things on my own, and become more handy with my hands. I enjoy the variety on your channel. God bless you!
love hearing this! Everyone has to start somewhere and 99% of the battle is just starting. Glad you're working to get better and thanks for the kind words!
I had a cheaper version of that. It had plastic fingers instead of metal. Used it to replace the cheap drawers in my kitchen that were falling apart. It did the trick.
Did you try adjusting the clamping pressure knobs? If they're too tight, that will cause the shifting when you clamp. It might also alleviate the plate from bowing up on the end.
I must be doing something wrong. I set the depth to 9/16. After I cut the dovetails one side of the dovetail is 1/2" but the other board measures 5/8 or 9/16 at the wide side of the dovetail. The have to be driven together which splits some of the dovetails.
Thanks for a clear and concise instruction on this jig . It looks very similar to the SIP version or perhaps the same model under a different name . My question is , can this be used with 1/2 inch thick boards with the 1/2 Inch comb ? Many thanks
Great information... my first cuts on test boards were horrific... and the guide doesn't have room for more than 4 1/2 inches, so if the router base calls for 4 5/8 on the measurement table you showed from a different user guide than the cut will be impossible? Any suggestions?
Went to set mine up and the boards would not square up. I found the locking guides were not square. I got out my machinist square and a file and squared them up. I also, like you notice flex in the template and had to clamp (lightly) the ends.
Good video, very informative, I hope HF is not paying you to review their tools,You just convinced me to not by this jig and go spend the extra money on a porter cable, no pun intended Thank You. If it wasn't for this I fo I would probably end up buying both.
I bought whaat looks like the same jig from a British company who had rebranded it to sell here. What I was most shocked and dissapointed by was the comb template. It is the worst example of aluminium anything I have ever seen in a consumer product, let alone something sold as a precision craft tool. It was clear their cast was beat to f as there were voids and bumps on the comb. But the worst thing was the finish, which made it looked like it was done by scraping it along concrete. So crazy rough with lines running down it and the edges like saw blades. What makes it worse is that like always, it cost twice as much as it does in the USA.
"Totally straight boards"....Better go to someplace other than the local Lowe's with their "top choice" lumber...Spent 20 minutes trying to find three 1x8x8s that weren't chewed to hell, warped, or cupped.
you all know the handle screws into place from both sides. no having to disassemble the top plate. if it is locking down forward and not to the rear simply unscrew and screw in the other side. it is not meant to be ready out of the box, if it was, there would be much more packaging needed to compensate for the top plate tension rod. just saying. good video otherwise.
That thing should come with a piece of sandpaper to break the sharp edges. I bought one and took it back it had such shit quality. I'll stick to the table saw jigs.
I've watched several of these set-up videos and this was the best one by far. I was making sawdust in minutes. The jig is very unforgiving if the wood isn't square and your measurements/setup are off a little. But after a few tries I was able to dial it in. Thanks for sharing the info!!
Excellent demo, kudos for your perseverance. I bought this same jig a couple years ago and returned it. After numerous failures, I discovered that the top surface of the jig was bowed about 1/4" so the horizontal board could never sit flat. You've done an excellent job here. Its just my opinion but I found it was incredibly tedious to set up and very susceptible to user error. I ended up biting the bullet and buying the Porter Cable jig and was SO glad I did. The difference in quality is immediately evident, and jig setup is far easier and more reliable. This is NOT meant to discourage anyone at all from buying the HF jig. Hey - go for it! But if you do, just make sure the top plate is flat before you even try to use it 😀 With this man's great tutorial, and patience (a LOT of it in my opinion) you should be fine.
Clearly, one of the best how-to videos on You Tube today. Plus you didn't waste time showing it being unboxed. Great Job !
Glad you watched a video where I didn’t unbox something 🤣
Break It Yourself there’s just one thing that doesn’t make sense about the manual you posted and what you said in the video. I have a set of guide bushings I bought from Lowe’s and as far as I can tell, they’re labeled according to the size of the opening that allows the bit through. The manual calls for a bushing 7/16” in size and a bit 1/2” in size with a 14 degree pitch. On top of this it has you measure the distance from the router base plate to the tip of the router bit, basically how far it extends out from the base plate. The measurement it calls for is 9/16”. My question is this, how can I have the bit extending 9/16” out from the base plate when the opening on the guide bushing is only 7/16”? It will only allow the bit to be retracted back so far until it hits the side of the bushing opening which obviously is not going to work. I really wish I could figure this out because it’s frustrating the crap out of me and it’s super confusing since my manual calls for a bushing that’s 1/2” which would make tons more sense but then later on in the SAME manual it goes back to saying a 7/16” bushing. Not only this but there’s another you tuber who has a video stating that the manual that comes with the EXACT model jig I have (same as yours btw) is wrong and that it’s definitely a 7/16” bushing that is required, which for the reasons stated above doesn’t make any sense. What am I not getting here?
@@BreakItYourself I bought a dovetail rig and whilst I can join boards edge to edge, I cant make right angle joints, it can clamp both boards at right angles, but the top board stencil is 1.5"' away from the board and no way to rotate it (Like you need a route bit with a very long shaft), any ideas what this type of jig is and what its use is? It looks to be quite old and made in England.
This was great - especially the alternative to the Harbor Freight manual, which was so unhelpful it was bewildering. Bravo! Thank you!
Woodstock international Inc. also sells the same model, DOVETAIL JIG
D2796 manual is correct for it also
The chart and instructions on the PDF you shared was perfect!
Would have liked to see you make the cuts and show how it works. Set up part was helpful. Thanks
You pretty much covered it..when I bought mine I had to dig for info and combine different tips and advice from several sources to get it dialed in. I also have the same issue with the finger template being slightly bowed. This will save people a lot of time
thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
Thank you to both of you! My finger comb template was also bowed. But I originally misunderstood which item you were referring to as being bowed. I thought you meant the blue clamping bar was bowed. I took the finger template off and clamped to a straight surface. While letting the peak of the bowed point cantilever out in the open, I applied a downward force to the finger template until the bow was removed. Do this with great caution, the aluminum is very brittle and could easily snap in two. Now all the parts are better aligned. Thank you again for the video!
Amazing how you were able to deliver twice as much info in half of the time compared to other videos. Very much appreciated.
I see you made half blind dovetails. How would I adjust to make full through dovetails?
Brilliant video. I picked up a flea market jig for $5.00. I have already fixed the reverse levers (both of mine were reversed). I will print the manual you provided a link to as well. I really really appreciate your efforts!
This is the first video I’ve seen that makes sense. You are a life saver!
haha well Linda i'm glad you appreciated it! thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
EXCEPTIONAL REVIEW MAN! COULDN'T POSSIBLY IMAGINE IT DONE MORE HELPFUL. Many thanks! Can't wait to try mine. Beautiful ends by the way. I'm not a perfectionist, but enjoy when things work well, and hopefully all this will make things easier for me to make nice ends to tie together with dovetails.
Thanks a million again! Keep up the GREAT reviews.
(No clamp needed) I adjusted the down pressure on the finger bar by unscrewing the left side and removing one screw from the right side. Swing the finger bar out of the way. I placed a piece of wood under the steel finder bar holder and bent it down just a little. Put the screws back in and now the finger bar stays in contact with the wood.
Wow I just saw that measuring tool and thought oh no how am I going to measure mine looked infront of me and It was right there in front of me, I got lots of stuff everywhere in my shed I don't know what it does but now I know
Dude is a Boss, Woodworking in the Kitchen. Wife deal with it
Clearly not married
It's a clearance item right now. With the sale going on right now is 30% off clearance and 40% off for itc members. So I feel pretty good about this find
On your vertical board, you could scribe a line with your marking guage one eighth of an inch from the edge.
That instructions safes the day!
You sir are awesome! You told it better than any manual! Thank you!
Thanks so much for the kind words and for watching!
Great video(s). You are so easy to listen to and everything very well explained. Great job. Keep making videos.
You said that the jig raises up in the front when you tighten the workpiece in place. The instruction manual addresses this and says to loosen up your adjustment. If its too tight, it will lift in the front. . If someone else has already said this, I apologize. I didn't read thru all of the comments. Great video. Thank you
"Today we're going to be taking a look at the Harbor Freight Dovetail Jig." You sold me in the first 25 seconds.
Thanks for watching!
I seriosly second your comment Daniel! No kidding. GREAT review of a jig I"m buying right now...
Great video. I have had my HF half blind dovetail jig for years and hated it because of the users guide. WIll be looking up the one you mention. Thanks!
Great video, definitely sold me on not buying this one though as the setup for each new usage seems unnecessarily difficult.
All you had to do to get the clamping direction correct is to remove the 2 clamping handles that you just installed from the clamping assemblies and re-insert them in the clamps from the correct side. These clamps are unidirectional otherwise.
Finally a video that makes sense!
Thank you for the video, it's helped a lot. Also, thank you for not playing god awful music in the video.
Good video but man I wish I saw it in action. Thank you
From what I've seen online, the one end popping up is a sign that the screws are too tight on that side. Loosening the screw that holds down the workpiece clamp by about a half turn should get rid of that pull without significantly loosening the clamp.
Check the hold down clamp I automatically switched mine only to find out it came correct.
Did you de-burr your pin plate? Mines pretty rough nothing a file and some sand paper can’t handle just wondered if it effected your cuts.
I screwed my handle into the hole after I rotated it backwards no need to reverse the the top clamp !
I have a Bosch Colt palm router. It has a rectangular (not exactly square). The setup on the Harbor Freight Dovetail jig asks for the distance from the pit to the edge of the base plate. How do I d come up with the radius of a rectangle?
I also change the back knobs for bolts, the ones for the comb plate. Much easier
Thanks. Looks like the outside of the box (drawer etc) faces toward the jig. The other manual was helpful especially regarding size of bushing guide and router bit size
Lo felicito porque a pesar de estar en inglés le entendí su excelente explicación. Gracias por su ayuda
Excellent video!
How can I find the manual you were discussing as better?
What kind of bit are you using? Is that 14degree angle one?
Thanks for the video. I'm trying to learn to do more things on my own, and become more handy with my hands. I enjoy the variety on your channel. God bless you!
love hearing this! Everyone has to start somewhere and 99% of the battle is just starting. Glad you're working to get better and thanks for the kind words!
I had a cheaper version of that. It had plastic fingers instead of metal. Used it to replace the cheap drawers in my kitchen that were falling apart. It did the trick.
You just have to move handle to other side to change direction of clamping pressure
thank you for the manual.
you're welcome!
Did you try adjusting the clamping pressure knobs? If they're too tight, that will cause the shifting when you clamp. It might also alleviate the plate from bowing up on the end.
I must be doing something wrong. I set the depth to 9/16. After I cut the dovetails one side of the dovetail is 1/2" but the other board measures 5/8 or 9/16 at the wide side of the dovetail. The have to be driven together which splits some of the dovetails.
I have same issue. Can't figure out
I wish you would have completed how to use it and run the router thru??
Very helpful.
Thanks for a clear and concise instruction on this jig . It looks very similar to the SIP version or perhaps the same model under a different name . My question is , can this be used with 1/2 inch thick boards with the 1/2
Inch comb ? Many thanks
I'll have to measure some of my wood scraps to see but I believe you can. It will all depend on the depth of the bit
Well done and thank you...making bee hives.
Thanks for the kind words! Good luck on your project 🐝
My plan exactly !
Thanks for sharing. 👍
Very helpful video but the tool seems more complicating than doing it by hand.
Great information... my first cuts on test boards were horrific... and the guide doesn't have room for more than 4 1/2 inches, so if the router base calls for 4 5/8 on the measurement table you showed from a different user guide than the cut will be impossible? Any suggestions?
The fence can be removed and turned around to allow more room for the router / thicker stock.
Great review/tutorial! I just bought one. I may be blanking on something, but I don't see the link to the better manual ... a donde?
Should be in the description
d27ewrs9ow50op.cloudfront.net/manuals/d2796_m.pdf
thanks --- got & printing as I speak /type!!!
Hello, can you please give us a link to a good user manual that included the tables for setting the rear fence?
Reply
you spoke about the cross-reference chart ap, where did you download that from please..thank you, just getting into this..loved your video
Check the description of the video
Great video
Went to set mine up and the boards would not square up. I found the locking guides were not square. I got out my machinist square and a file and squared them up. I also, like you notice flex in the template and had to clamp (lightly) the ends.
What thickness wood are you using? 3/4?
Where did you find the chart for the fence thing?
How can I find the right Manuel guide
Some good tips.
Thank you for the manual!
Good video, very informative, I hope HF is not paying you to review their tools,You just convinced me to not by this jig and go spend the extra money on a porter cable, no pun intended Thank You. If it wasn't for this I fo I would probably end up buying both.
What size router bit did you use?
good, well thought out video (UK)
Thank you kindly
Does this do only half-blind dovetails?
yes, only half blind
I bought whaat looks like the same jig from a British company who had rebranded it to sell here. What I was most shocked and dissapointed by was the comb template. It is the worst example of aluminium anything I have ever seen in a consumer product, let alone something sold as a precision craft tool. It was clear their cast was beat to f as there were voids and bumps on the comb. But the worst thing was the finish, which made it looked like it was done by scraping it along concrete. So crazy rough with lines running down it and the edges like saw blades. What makes it worse is that like always, it cost twice as much as it does in the USA.
Thank you
Will it handle 3/4" stock?
yep!
you can do it with 1/2 inch wood
Hi. I enjoyed the video. How do I get the manual you mentioned?
Hey Rod, it's in the description of the video.
Where the links for the online directions ? Great video
Do you have the link to the chart?
The top clamp, is what I was typing about. 😂
haha i got you
Es justo la que necesito como donde poder comprarla
"Totally straight boards"....Better go to someplace other than the local Lowe's with their "top choice" lumber...Spent 20 minutes trying to find three 1x8x8s that weren't chewed to hell, warped, or cupped.
Thank you so much for the instruction. p.s. the link for the updated manual no longer works
you really should have followed through with a cut to show the novice, would have been nice, thank you
you all know the handle screws into place from both sides. no having to disassemble the top plate. if it is locking down forward and not to the rear simply unscrew and screw in the other side. it is not meant to be ready out of the box, if it was, there would be much more packaging needed to compensate for the top plate tension rod. just saying. good video otherwise.
Does anyone know the newest price for this item? I know it's been a while since the video so I'm pretty sure that it's gone up a bit.
Got one yesterday. Still 37.99
@@davidfabrycki1 Thanks!
They all move when you clamp the top, always pull the top forward when you clamp and it us kind of a pain.
Hello, can you please give us a link to a good uer manual that included the tables for setting the rear fence?
it's in the description d27ewrs9ow50op.cloudfront.net/manuals/d2796_m.pdf
would have been nice if you would have showed you cutting with the router
"HEY GUYS!" ITM
ITM
Mine was backwards as well
... go see a doctor? lol
You lost me at "It bows", thank you for taking the time to make this video though.
Hi
That thing should come with a piece of sandpaper to break the sharp edges. I bought one and took it back it had such shit quality. I'll stick to the table saw jigs.
That seems overly complicated
You seem overly uneducated
Somebody poisoned the waterhole!
haha glad someone understands the shirt!
One of my faves!
same here! looking forward to the 4th installment
why didn't you make a cut and show us how it worked??? Set up does not sound right according to other vids.
nevermind. bad stereo connection
I mostly hear music and your voice in the distant background. Please advise.
your stereo connection might be bad.
This seems super complicated
Set this guy and this guy....... I am an idiot
Why can’t you Americans just use millimetres 😂
What can you buy at Harbour fright nothing but real junk wasting you money junk junk junk