Hey friend ! Please help me ! For some reason im haveing troubles with my sand / light gravel base. Half of my bases are on "rock solid" and the other have are peeling back. The glue and sand / gravel is comeing off the base :( . What did I do wrong ? Iv used the same PVA glue Emlers*stronger* formula. After the first glueing I waited 24 hrs then put another layer of half water or close to half with glue and dabed it on top of the gravel as Iv done before. I manage to fix the others I used Gorllia Gel glue and re glued the bases back on and put some Gorllia glue around the edges of the base were it would peel off. Many extra steps that before I never had to do. Not sure what went wrong. If this keeps hapening I might just buy Vallejo Base Texture as that drys solid i hear, I just wanted all the bases to look the same so thats why I might just keep glueing the gravel instead.
Model railway skill coming in handy now... rather than painting on the thinned glue, make a mix of 50% glue / water, add three drops of washing up liquid, then use a pipette to suck up and drop on to the base. The washing up liquid breaks the surface tension and allows the glue to seep into the sand. It is what we do when ballasting track!
Another neat thing to consider for bases is investing in some oyumaru or blue stuff, which is a kind of plastic clay that becomes malleable when heated. You can use this to make simple one part molds of any interesting parts from a model kit and cast them in epoxy putty or UV resin to give your bases a more "premium" feel.
Mate, this video has inspired me to do my whole Astra Militarum in this basing method. Completed the first 20 bases for the shock troops today and honestly after trying different 'How to' videos off youtube for years, this was the first time my end product looks as good as the video. Wish I could post a picture! Thanks for a great video!!!!
I work in an aquarium retailer and the sand/substrate/ rocks we have in stock are never ending and I think they're a great untapped source of terrain for miniature platforms.
Great tutorial! By the way, the glue you used is a mix of PVA glue and varnish. Name of the stuff varies, but it's a key component of your recipe. Also a trick to spare time: when you prepare the second layer of glue (the "milk"), you can mix in your paint. Makes 2 steps in 1. I tried with various "base" paint from Citadel, it worked like a charm.
When i do a group of models I put any texture on the bases first then prime the bases when I prime the models. Then paint and add grass if desired just before putting the model on. I also use a static applicator because i already have one, it makes the grass stand unless you’re going for the squished down look. Another thing i do with static grass is vacuum off using a small keyboard vacuum which really helps any grass the static charge didn’t make stand stand up. Then add the model and you’re good.
Yeah it breaks up the surface tension. You can also pop some isopropyl alcohol over before you apply the top layer of PVA, that works really well but obviously not as accessible for a beginner or someone younger.
This is good, I can absolutely see myself sending this to a beginner, it explains the very basics of basing and in the end, it makes a very good base for an army. One thing though, I think you should shake your paint, your Ushabti bone is very uneven and separated in the pot.
just got into the hobby of mini paiting and still getting the know hows(kind of suck actually), this was very nice and simple to get, gonna try it myself thx for this tutorial gonna save for later as well.
Welcome to the hobby! And don't worry, we all had to suck at it before we knew what we were doing, embrace it, learn from any mistakes, and ask as many questions as you need to along the way!
Another alternative... if you prefer using money over time... Vallejo Texture Paints! The mud can scult rather well, ive used it for cavalry and made litte peaks from the hooves flinging up up, can put it on tires or tracks If you want to texture it more you could likely take some out and mix wirh some pebbles for rock... and apply the rest around your tactical rock
Absolutely! I do enjoy the texture paints. maybe i'll get to covering that with some proper build videos. company called VMS do a really nice mud texture paste too, check out videos by @NightShiftScaleModels he uses it a lot.
How well does the Vallejo texture paint stick on the base ? For some reason by sand and gravel / PVA glue base is peeling back ! :( the base is comeing off ... this never happened before. What have I done wrong ? I let it dry 24 hrs then put the water/glue on top. I had to use Gorllia glue on the edges to stop it from pelling back and comeing off the bass.
Sometimes It can happen through no fault of your own. Sometimes its the glue itself. Maybe it was just a touch too thick. Another alternative is to use superglue to put the sand on, then seal it with pva once it's all dry as normal. This method is fine if you're doing bases without minis on to start with, but can be hard to clean up if you go wrong (edges might need sanding if you spill superglue for example).
There's a couple of ways to do it, either with pinning or by covering a section of the base beforehand. Pinning would be to drill a hole in the foot of your model and in the base and connect the two using part of a paperclip or small brass rod. Or you can cover parts of the base where the feet connect before you start putting on sand etc. Either works fine although pinning is a stronger connection.
Great simple tutorial 👌 My only add on would be that dry brushing actually gives a smoother finish if the brush is ever so slightly damp (I know it sounds counter intuitive 😅), so I wet a sponge and poke the brush into it first before I load the tip with paint.
I'd suggest lots of different sized sand, and bits of rubble for something as big as a joytoy 40k figure. Glue on a few bigger bits with superglue, then when you do sand, sprinkle largest pieces first very sparsely so there's lots of big gaps, then go a size down and fill in some of the gaps and then with smallest sand fill in the rest of it. Should look a bit more realistic for a large scale figure, and avoids the occasional problem of mixing up sand types, that you just get an unintentional scoop of one type of sand .
I personally prefer priming my base after I glue sand and rocks to it. That way I can pain the stones and ground any colors I want. Though this is mostly because I bought my sand and rocks from a pet supply store and they dont really match up color wise.
Probably should have done this earlier, but better late than never, if you have any suggestions for things you want or need covered in future videos drop them as a reply to this comment! I've got a few ideas but its great to hear what the community at large needs.
Chinchilla sand from any pet store is good, it's a fine sand so doesn't look out of place. Then you could just grab a pile of dirt from basically anywhere, bake it for a little while to sterilise it then sift through one of those flour sifter thingys (just the cheap plastic ones) to get some variations in size of sand. You want a variety to make it look good but mostly fine sand. A good basing tub is something you can mix up and add to over the years, I've had mine for nearly 10 years, adding bits to it as and when I see them.
I love this method! It’s been my preferred way of doing bases since last century. The only modification I’ve made to this method is to put in a drop of flow improver, or isopropyl, so that the sand won’t repel the watered down PVA/MP. Well done, sir!
Honestly really great vid, im someone that does the extra details of the base after glueing the model on since im bad at guaging the footprint. Ie my tau cp has a space hulk basing scheme, i had the flooring made, painted, and bloodied before putting the models on and afterwards im adding rubble, myysterious goo trails, and i might add more blood like they got some splashed on them from horrors theyre hiding from
Absolutely, for a smaller plastic miniature a couple of drops of superglue on the feet is enough, for anything space marine sized or bigger, you'd be better off pinning it. You'll need what's called a pin vise or small hand drill, some paper clips, a drill bit the same diameter as the paperclip and some spare clippers (don't use the ones you use for your miniatures, cutting paperclips will damage them eventually so you want either cheap spares or tougher ones specifically for wire. Drill into the thickest part of the underside of one foot of the model (usually it's towards the rear directly in line with the leg) about 5mm deep is enough but if you have the space on the mini go a bit further. Figure out where on the base you want the figure to stand and drill a corresponding hole into the base all the way through. Superglue a straight piece of paper clip into the hole in the floor, let the glue dry and test fit your model. If that looks good take it off, pop some glue on the feet and the length of paper clip sticking out then glue it down. Once it's all dry trim off any wire sticking out underneath the base (hold the model not the base when you clip this bit) and you're all done!
Pet shops for the chinchilla sand, you can get a decent sized carton for not too much. The slightly bigger sand will mean just mixing in whatever you can find really (pet shops do other grades of sand for different animals, but generally they're expensive for how much you get)
This is awesome thanks for the vid! I've just gotten back into 40k after 14 years defs will try this. Could you do something similar for ice/snow/frost bases? I'd love to know how to do that
Glad to hear you liked it! Yes ice and snow etc is on the list to make a video on, I'm working on a slightly more advanced basing video at the moment which will be out in a day or two, but then we'll look at specific styles of basing!
Not at all! Using a static grass machine just makes the grass stand upright a bit easier, but for a trampled battlefield, pristine grass isn't what we want 😉
Just drill a hole into the foot of the miniature, glue a straight piece of metal like part of a paperclip into the hole, then work out where on the base it should go, and just drill straight through the base. Put glue on the feet and the rod (superglue works best for this method) and put it in place, all done. Just trim off any excess rod when the glue has had time to dry. Hope that helps
Hi great video. How many millimeters are the static grass you used in the video? I've seen a lot of examples of people putting on static grass without an applicator and it never looks good... well except yours. So curious if it might have something to do with the length of the grass. Best regards
Thanks! I 'think' it's only about 2 or 3 millimeters in length, but I don't have the original packaging anymore. Blowing on the grass just after application helps it to stand up too, as well as getting rid of excess. For longer static grass you could use something that creates static (certain plastics, balloons etc) just to attract the grass after application but before the glue dries fully, that will also work (but I will say that's theoretical, I've never had a need to do that, might be worth investigating)
I've found that pinning is vital when you're using a fully painted and finished base like this. Superglue to keep the pin in the model's foot, then once that's dry I'll trim/sand the cured superglue residue around the pin and determine where to drill the hole in the base and cut the pin to size. I actually use a weaker bond like a tiny amount of PVA or plastic glue on the foot of the mini when placing it, that way you avoid any potential frosting from superglue. Once that weaker bond is set, I'll hang the mini upside down and put a dob of super glue around the exposed pin underneath the base.
@@burp114 I just got some thin cork coasters, I think instead of pinning maybe I can trim down those coasters into small platforms to elevate the minis just a bit? Also because I'm horrible at pinning lol.
@@Markynaz possibly! The only thing to be aware of is that your bond is only as strong as the thing you're bonding to. If your cork has a layer of paint over it, then when you superglue your mini down then you're really only gluing the mini to a thin layer of acrylic that can be easily flaked or peeled away. You could try scoring or sanding where you want to glue and stuff and that might work, just keep in mind that ideally you want to directly bond the mini to the base.
@@burp114 Thanks for the tip. I've not been taking basing seriously at all and I think that's a mistake I should correct, I realize that there's so much you can add to a mini's immersion via good basing.
Minis will superglue to this kind of base very well, but gluing onto Cork might be an issue as @burp114 says, much better to pin to a base in that circumstance. Or grab a handful of bark chips either online or from the local garden centre (or a friends garden!), they'll be slightly stronger than Cork if you pick the right ones, ideally though pinning is still the way forward if you intend to elevate the mini in any way
Really cool tutorial. Simple concept, but very well explained. One think I'd like to point out though, I'd really prefer the subtitles to go away. I find them quite distracting 😉Other than that, great video!
Thanks! Yeah the subtitles were an experiment, wasn't sure if the editor was going to bake them into the video or not! They'll be optional on the next one.
Subscribed! Thank you for this. Looks great and didn't seem to difficult to attempt. I'm new to the hobby and have been building my Lumineth Vanguard box, if I've already got my models on the bases, do you think I can still attempt the steps you took in this tutorial?
You absolutely can still do this with the models on the bases, you just have to be more careful with application, and wipe away excess sand from the feet of the miniatures with a brush before the glue dries.
I'm actually kind of glad these aren't primed because my dumb ass put the minis on first. Might still be able to make something happen here. This looks really nice though. All of this looks extremely doable.
Lots of people put the minis on first, it does make for a strong bond, so it can be good for hard-core gaming minis, but you do lose a bit of character and variation because everyone is on the same level.
Sorry - really dumb question but just starting out in the hobby. How does one get the miniature on there? Once it's based i assume my plastic glue wont take? Do i need to use super glue??
Yep you can either super glue the model on once it's all painted, or if you dont have access to that, plastic glue the model to the bare base before following the steps. Second route is trickier as you have to work around the model, but it's not too bad.
For a base it really doesn't matter. Priming is just a method to make paint stick better, and as paint will stick well to the textured surface of a base it's all good. sometimes I don't even prime plastic miniatures if they're prepped correctly (that one is more painter dependant, some like it, some don't).
I don't really know what to feel aboiut this video. That base looks absolutely amazing, which presents the problem: you made me feel like crap since my bases cant compete at all with yours lol
Think of it this way, everyone in the hobby is on a path, some people are just further along the path than others. I've been doing this for a very long time, and even I see people far far more advanced than I am. Take what you see as inspiration to move further up the path rather than letting it push you off the path entirely. All easier said than done I know, but hopefully that will help!
Sometimes I varnish the whole base including the grass, which can help. But generally as long as its not being moved or touched constantly it should be fine, although you'll always lose a little bit over time anyway it won't be a huge amount.
@@nofixedcourse ok thanks so much! I just finished doing the bases for my skorpekh destroyers, and all of my dnd friends are impressed thanks to your tutorial 😁
Drill a hole when you're done painting the base if you're going to pin the figure, or glue the unpainted figure to the base before you start basing. There are multiple ways to go about it. Some small, light plastic figures can just be superglued straight onto a base like this with no issues.
And for glazing. The problem I have with the description is that every paint is different and covers differently, its just one of those things you learn by doing.
I did that for a Silver Tower commission many moons ago, took a high res photo of the board (a feat all on its own to get it straight down and now warped in any way) had it printed out on decent paper at actual size, then added it to all of the bases, soaked them in varnish to harden everything and then pinned the models on. it works really well for board game minis or dungeon crawlers.
How do you clean off the PVA brush? Edit: Also, I like the subtitles, but they keep reading your accent wrong, if you can edit the output of the text before uploading that'd help you longer term :)
Pva will wash off with soap and water very easily, it's a water based glue so won't damage a brush unless you leave it on there for ages. Yeah the subtitles were an experiment, something to be tweaked for the next video
'Just wipe if off with your thumb' yet at @2.31 the author clearly uses his left index finger to remove debris, shocking dishonesty. Great video apart from that :)
Many thanks for the video, but please don't force subtitles/captions. Extremely distracting As bonus feedback: might want to rethink your music choice. You have a warm voice, so don't put energetic dubstep. Use ambient sounds, maybe even chill wind instruments. At least for me, painting is very zen, you want to focus, not dance
Ill NEVER use GW paint on bases. They want you to buy several overpriced pots just to waste it all. You can easily use cheaper paint like Apple Barn or rattle can stuff and it often looks way better to! Save yourself lots of money.
Ok, what's too hard? The painting or the basing itself? There are ways to simplify everything if needed while you're learning. As for gluing a figure to it, just super glue will do the trick (pinning helps especially if it's a metal figure) , or glue the figure to the base first with plastic glue, then follow all the steps here to finish the base before you paint the figure.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Latest Basing Video Here! -ruclips.net/video/jJQqVYmurzw/видео.html
Hey friend ! Please help me ! For some reason im haveing troubles with my sand / light gravel base. Half of my bases are on "rock solid" and the other have are peeling back. The glue and sand / gravel is comeing off the base :( . What did I do wrong ? Iv used the same PVA glue Emlers*stronger* formula. After the first glueing I waited 24 hrs then put another layer of half water or close to half with glue and dabed it on top of the gravel as Iv done before. I manage to fix the others I used Gorllia Gel glue and re glued the bases back on and put some Gorllia glue around the edges of the base were it would peel off. Many extra steps that before I never had to do. Not sure what went wrong. If this keeps hapening I might just buy Vallejo Base Texture as that drys solid i hear, I just wanted all the bases to look the same so thats why I might just keep glueing the gravel instead.
Anyone else think it looked great with just the sand and sealant?
Model railway skill coming in handy now... rather than painting on the thinned glue, make a mix of 50% glue / water, add three drops of washing up liquid, then use a pipette to suck up and drop on to the base. The washing up liquid breaks the surface tension and allows the glue to seep into the sand. It is what we do when ballasting track!
Another neat thing to consider for bases is investing in some oyumaru or blue stuff, which is a kind of plastic clay that becomes malleable when heated. You can use this to make simple one part molds of any interesting parts from a model kit and cast them in epoxy putty or UV resin to give your bases a more "premium" feel.
Mate, this video has inspired me to do my whole Astra Militarum in this basing method. Completed the first 20 bases for the shock troops today and honestly after trying different 'How to' videos off youtube for years, this was the first time my end product looks as good as the video. Wish I could post a picture! Thanks for a great video!!!!
Really glad you found some use in the video!
This is great for beginners since I’ve seen other folks slap layers on without explaining why they go in a certain order.
I work in an aquarium retailer and the sand/substrate/ rocks we have in stock are never ending and I think they're a great untapped source of terrain for miniature platforms.
I live in Vietnam and model terrain stuff isn’t exactly easy to get a hold of so aquarium decoration is exactly what I use
Great tutorial!
By the way, the glue you used is a mix of PVA glue and varnish. Name of the stuff varies, but it's a key component of your recipe. Also a trick to spare time: when you prepare the second layer of glue (the "milk"), you can mix in your paint. Makes 2 steps in 1. I tried with various "base" paint from Citadel, it worked like a charm.
I always appreciate a good base. This is simple and effective. Nice job!
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it
This is exceptional work
Definition of trust the process! Just about to make my first models (Skorpekh Destroyers) and this is SOOOO helpful!
When i do a group of models I put any texture on the bases first then prime the bases when I prime the models. Then paint and add grass if desired just before putting the model on. I also use a static applicator because i already have one, it makes the grass stand unless you’re going for the squished down look. Another thing i do with static grass is vacuum off using a small keyboard vacuum which really helps any grass the static charge didn’t make stand stand up. Then add the model and you’re good.
I found that a tiny drop of dish soap makes it much easier to apply PVA glue, and makes bubbles disappear as well
Yeah it breaks up the surface tension. You can also pop some isopropyl alcohol over before you apply the top layer of PVA, that works really well but obviously not as accessible for a beginner or someone younger.
Very nice result, well made tutorial. Cheers!
This is good, I can absolutely see myself sending this to a beginner, it explains the very basics of basing and in the end, it makes a very good base for an army. One thing though, I think you should shake your paint, your Ushabti bone is very uneven and separated in the pot.
Glad you liked it! if it was for a mini i would shake the pot, but for a quick base, not so worried.
Someone finally said it! Someone finally said that paint the consistency of milk doesn’t make any sense! Subbed for that
just got into the hobby of mini paiting and still getting the know hows(kind of suck actually), this was very nice and simple to get, gonna try it myself thx for this tutorial gonna save for later as well.
Welcome to the hobby! And don't worry, we all had to suck at it before we knew what we were doing, embrace it, learn from any mistakes, and ask as many questions as you need to along the way!
Another alternative... if you prefer using money over time...
Vallejo Texture Paints!
The mud can scult rather well, ive used it for cavalry and made litte peaks from the hooves flinging up up, can put it on tires or tracks
If you want to texture it more you could likely take some out and mix wirh some pebbles for rock... and apply the rest around your tactical rock
Absolutely! I do enjoy the texture paints. maybe i'll get to covering that with some proper build videos. company called VMS do a really nice mud texture paste too, check out videos by @NightShiftScaleModels he uses it a lot.
How well does the Vallejo texture paint stick on the base ? For some reason by sand and gravel / PVA glue base is peeling back ! :( the base is comeing off ... this never happened before. What have I done wrong ? I let it dry 24 hrs then put the water/glue on top. I had to use Gorllia glue on the edges to stop it from pelling back and comeing off the bass.
Sometimes It can happen through no fault of your own. Sometimes its the glue itself. Maybe it was just a touch too thick. Another alternative is to use superglue to put the sand on, then seal it with pva once it's all dry as normal. This method is fine if you're doing bases without minis on to start with, but can be hard to clean up if you go wrong (edges might need sanding if you spill superglue for example).
I think so as well. Thanks for letting me know. God bless.@@nofixedcourse
The first very useful tutorial where more or less common paints are used. Thank you.
Simple and very effective.. thanks for a good video
You're welcome!
Looks amazing ty i prefer the natural look over paint tho keep up the good work
That's a cool base. Super simple but super cool!!
Thanks!
Nice tutorial, but how do you stick your miniatures on after when theres stones and brushes in the way?
There's a couple of ways to do it, either with pinning or by covering a section of the base beforehand. Pinning would be to drill a hole in the foot of your model and in the base and connect the two using part of a paperclip or small brass rod. Or you can cover parts of the base where the feet connect before you start putting on sand etc. Either works fine although pinning is a stronger connection.
Great simple tutorial 👌
My only add on would be that dry brushing actually gives a smoother finish if the brush is ever so slightly damp (I know it sounds counter intuitive 😅), so I wet a sponge and poke the brush into it first before I load the tip with paint.
Whilst yes that is true, for a beginner there's too many variables to go wrong, and for a base of this nature you don't really want it smoother.
Looks fantastic and super simple to follow! Thanks for sharing :)
You're most welcome, hope it's useful!
The kind of tutorial i like. Thanks a lot!
Thank you, glad you liked it!
I need to do this for my Joytoy 40k bases.
I'd suggest lots of different sized sand, and bits of rubble for something as big as a joytoy 40k figure. Glue on a few bigger bits with superglue, then when you do sand, sprinkle largest pieces first very sparsely so there's lots of big gaps, then go a size down and fill in some of the gaps and then with smallest sand fill in the rest of it. Should look a bit more realistic for a large scale figure, and avoids the occasional problem of mixing up sand types, that you just get an unintentional scoop of one type of sand .
@nofixedcourse appreciate the steer. Many thx👊
Really good and simple process that produces a stellar looking base!
Absolutely fantastic!
I was looking at my bases and thought they needed a bit of pazaz so I shall do this!
I personally prefer priming my base after I glue sand and rocks to it. That way I can pain the stones and ground any colors I want. Though this is mostly because I bought my sand and rocks from a pet supply store and they dont really match up color wise.
Absolutely up to you how you approach it, but the glue, once dried provides a grippy enough surface to paint the base any colour you want.
Probably should have done this earlier, but better late than never, if you have any suggestions for things you want or need covered in future videos drop them as a reply to this comment! I've got a few ideas but its great to hear what the community at large needs.
A step by step basic guide to gap filling and mould line removal would be great for new people in the hobby.
That is not a bad idea at all!
One thing I've always wanted to know, is what to look for when gathering the materials for the basing tub. What kind of sand I should find, etc.
Chinchilla sand from any pet store is good, it's a fine sand so doesn't look out of place. Then you could just grab a pile of dirt from basically anywhere, bake it for a little while to sterilise it then sift through one of those flour sifter thingys (just the cheap plastic ones) to get some variations in size of sand. You want a variety to make it look good but mostly fine sand. A good basing tub is something you can mix up and add to over the years, I've had mine for nearly 10 years, adding bits to it as and when I see them.
This is really helpful. Thank you for the tips and advice.
Absolute amazing, well done sir
Thanks!
Nice , simple base.
I love this method! It’s been my preferred way of doing bases since last century.
The only modification I’ve made to this method is to put in a drop of flow improver, or isopropyl, so that the sand won’t repel the watered down PVA/MP.
Well done, sir!
Very nice i like the tip with the modge podge i might pick some up looks easier and better to use than standard PVA
Yeah it's good stuff, not cheap mind, but it will last for a while.
Thankyou so much! My wolves look so much cooler now 😄😄 only started about a month ago and currently nearly got a 1000 point soulblight army hehe
Honestly really great vid, im someone that does the extra details of the base after glueing the model on since im bad at guaging the footprint. Ie my tau cp has a space hulk basing scheme, i had the flooring made, painted, and bloodied before putting the models on and afterwards im adding rubble, myysterious goo trails, and i might add more blood like they got some splashed on them from horrors theyre hiding from
Thanks! Yeah doing part and then finishing it with the model on is a good idea, especially for narrative style bases.
Lovely simple base but very effective. Looking forward to the next one.
Thanks. Not totally sure what will be next, lots of stuff has been filmed, so I may do a poll to see what people want or need!
@@nofixedcourse Sounds like a great plan.
Great tutorial, thanks!
You're welcome!
i like the little background song
As a complete beginner, I'd appreciaye if you could tell me ho to fix the model on a similar completed base?
Absolutely, for a smaller plastic miniature a couple of drops of superglue on the feet is enough, for anything space marine sized or bigger, you'd be better off pinning it. You'll need what's called a pin vise or small hand drill, some paper clips, a drill bit the same diameter as the paperclip and some spare clippers (don't use the ones you use for your miniatures, cutting paperclips will damage them eventually so you want either cheap spares or tougher ones specifically for wire. Drill into the thickest part of the underside of one foot of the model (usually it's towards the rear directly in line with the leg) about 5mm deep is enough but if you have the space on the mini go a bit further. Figure out where on the base you want the figure to stand and drill a corresponding hole into the base all the way through. Superglue a straight piece of paper clip into the hole in the floor, let the glue dry and test fit your model. If that looks good take it off, pop some glue on the feet and the length of paper clip sticking out then glue it down. Once it's all dry trim off any wire sticking out underneath the base (hold the model not the base when you clip this bit) and you're all done!
Excellent work
Thank you! Cheers!
Great tutorial, thank you
You are welcome!
Looks cool. 👍
It’s so good, I’m excited to try this. Thanks for the tutorial.
Does anyone know the best places to get these fine options of gravels?
Pet shops for the chinchilla sand, you can get a decent sized carton for not too much. The slightly bigger sand will mean just mixing in whatever you can find really (pet shops do other grades of sand for different animals, but generally they're expensive for how much you get)
Thank you for the subtitles, my listening skills are not as good. Muchas gracias.
Awesome Models (all on this channel). Great Work. If only have more time and 3d print experience.
Thanks!
Wow, very interesting
This is awesome thanks for the vid! I've just gotten back into 40k after 14 years defs will try this.
Could you do something similar for ice/snow/frost bases? I'd love to know how to do that
Glad to hear you liked it! Yes ice and snow etc is on the list to make a video on, I'm working on a slightly more advanced basing video at the moment which will be out in a day or two, but then we'll look at specific styles of basing!
Very cool. So you don't need a static grass machine thing to use static grass
Not at all! Using a static grass machine just makes the grass stand upright a bit easier, but for a trampled battlefield, pristine grass isn't what we want 😉
Hey ! thank you so much for this video ! But, how you fixe your miniature after ? Thank you so much !
Just drill a hole into the foot of the miniature, glue a straight piece of metal like part of a paperclip into the hole, then work out where on the base it should go, and just drill straight through the base. Put glue on the feet and the rod (superglue works best for this method) and put it in place, all done. Just trim off any excess rod when the glue has had time to dry. Hope that helps
Hi great video. How many millimeters are the static grass you used in the video? I've seen a lot of examples of people putting on static grass without an applicator and it never looks good... well except yours. So curious if it might have something to do with the length of the grass. Best regards
Thanks! I 'think' it's only about 2 or 3 millimeters in length, but I don't have the original packaging anymore. Blowing on the grass just after application helps it to stand up too, as well as getting rid of excess. For longer static grass you could use something that creates static (certain plastics, balloons etc) just to attract the grass after application but before the glue dries fully, that will also work (but I will say that's theoretical, I've never had a need to do that, might be worth investigating)
Amazing
Nice tutorial! Just found your channel and have subscribed.
-John
Awesome! Many thanks for subscribing
Nice video, very doable. How well do minis stick to this kind of base though, when superglued on?
I've found that pinning is vital when you're using a fully painted and finished base like this. Superglue to keep the pin in the model's foot, then once that's dry I'll trim/sand the cured superglue residue around the pin and determine where to drill the hole in the base and cut the pin to size. I actually use a weaker bond like a tiny amount of PVA or plastic glue on the foot of the mini when placing it, that way you avoid any potential frosting from superglue. Once that weaker bond is set, I'll hang the mini upside down and put a dob of super glue around the exposed pin underneath the base.
@@burp114 I just got some thin cork coasters, I think instead of pinning maybe I can trim down those coasters into small platforms to elevate the minis just a bit? Also because I'm horrible at pinning lol.
@@Markynaz possibly! The only thing to be aware of is that your bond is only as strong as the thing you're bonding to. If your cork has a layer of paint over it, then when you superglue your mini down then you're really only gluing the mini to a thin layer of acrylic that can be easily flaked or peeled away. You could try scoring or sanding where you want to glue and stuff and that might work, just keep in mind that ideally you want to directly bond the mini to the base.
@@burp114 Thanks for the tip. I've not been taking basing seriously at all and I think that's a mistake I should correct, I realize that there's so much you can add to a mini's immersion via good basing.
Minis will superglue to this kind of base very well, but gluing onto Cork might be an issue as @burp114 says, much better to pin to a base in that circumstance. Or grab a handful of bark chips either online or from the local garden centre (or a friends garden!), they'll be slightly stronger than Cork if you pick the right ones, ideally though pinning is still the way forward if you intend to elevate the mini in any way
Really cool tutorial. Simple concept, but very well explained.
One think I'd like to point out though, I'd really prefer the subtitles to go away. I find them quite distracting 😉Other than that, great video!
Thanks! Yeah the subtitles were an experiment, wasn't sure if the editor was going to bake them into the video or not! They'll be optional on the next one.
Great looking base, and a very nice tutorial.
Awesome tutorial! Thank you. Do you know what music you used for this?
Thanks! The music is from StreamBeats all royalty free, wouldn't be able to tell you what particular tracks I used though!
@@nofixedcourse No worries. I can track them down. That first track slaps.
Subscribed! Thank you for this. Looks great and didn't seem to difficult to attempt. I'm new to the hobby and have been building my Lumineth Vanguard box, if I've already got my models on the bases, do you think I can still attempt the steps you took in this tutorial?
You absolutely can still do this with the models on the bases, you just have to be more careful with application, and wipe away excess sand from the feet of the miniatures with a brush before the glue dries.
@@nofixedcourse appreciate the advice!
I'm actually kind of glad these aren't primed because my dumb ass put the minis on first. Might still be able to make something happen here.
This looks really nice though. All of this looks extremely doable.
Lots of people put the minis on first, it does make for a strong bond, so it can be good for hard-core gaming minis, but you do lose a bit of character and variation because everyone is on the same level.
Would any of this advice change for bases with a raised rim? Ala Warmachine or Malifaux bases?
Not at all, just be more mindful when wiping the edges of the base as the angles are different and you might hit the surface with a finger or thumb
very nice
Thanks!
Sorry - really dumb question but just starting out in the hobby. How does one get the miniature on there? Once it's based i assume my plastic glue wont take? Do i need to use super glue??
Yep you can either super glue the model on once it's all painted, or if you dont have access to that, plastic glue the model to the bare base before following the steps. Second route is trickier as you have to work around the model, but it's not too bad.
Should you not prime it before painting? New to this and I was always told priming is king.
For a base it really doesn't matter. Priming is just a method to make paint stick better, and as paint will stick well to the textured surface of a base it's all good. sometimes I don't even prime plastic miniatures if they're prepped correctly (that one is more painter dependant, some like it, some don't).
I don't really know what to feel aboiut this video. That base looks absolutely amazing, which presents the problem: you made me feel like crap since my bases cant compete at all with yours lol
Think of it this way, everyone in the hobby is on a path, some people are just further along the path than others. I've been doing this for a very long time, and even I see people far far more advanced than I am. Take what you see as inspiration to move further up the path rather than letting it push you off the path entirely. All easier said than done I know, but hopefully that will help!
I have a question, do you coat the grass in any way? Does it fall off over time?
Sometimes I varnish the whole base including the grass, which can help. But generally as long as its not being moved or touched constantly it should be fine, although you'll always lose a little bit over time anyway it won't be a huge amount.
@@nofixedcourse ok thanks so much! I just finished doing the bases for my skorpekh destroyers, and all of my dnd friends are impressed thanks to your tutorial 😁
“These take a while to dry, so if you have 10 or so then doing them in batches would probably be a good idea.”
Laughs in Skaven hoard
I don't get how you attach figures to it since there is no hole?
Drill a hole when you're done painting the base if you're going to pin the figure, or glue the unpainted figure to the base before you start basing. There are multiple ways to go about it. Some small, light plastic figures can just be superglued straight onto a base like this with no issues.
Generally when I've heard consistency of milk for paint it's talking a bout airbrushing
And for glazing. The problem I have with the description is that every paint is different and covers differently, its just one of those things you learn by doing.
@@nofixedcourse yeah, I find that it's good for a starting point to learn where to go from there but not something that's perfect as is
Meanwhile I’m here with Heroscape slapping a sticker on the base and calling it a day XD
I did that for a Silver Tower commission many moons ago, took a high res photo of the board (a feat all on its own to get it straight down and now warped in any way) had it printed out on decent paper at actual size, then added it to all of the bases, soaked them in varnish to harden everything and then pinned the models on. it works really well for board game minis or dungeon crawlers.
How do you clean off the PVA brush?
Edit: Also, I like the subtitles, but they keep reading your accent wrong, if you can edit the output of the text before uploading that'd help you longer term :)
Pva will wash off with soap and water very easily, it's a water based glue so won't damage a brush unless you leave it on there for ages. Yeah the subtitles were an experiment, something to be tweaked for the next video
How do I turn the subtitles off?
They're part of the video so can't be turned off, just an experiment at the moment.
Bah! A bit of gobbo green, and you're good to go.
Great tutorial, sticking your brush in the unmixed ushabti bone really did hurt me though.
Haha, if it was for a miniature or a display base it would be different, but just for a gaming base it's fine 🙂
'Just wipe if off with your thumb' yet at @2.31 the author clearly uses his left index finger to remove debris, shocking dishonesty. Great video apart from that :)
I shall be sure to say it as 'digit of your choosing' next time 🤣 glad you liked the video
Many thanks for the video, but please don't force subtitles/captions. Extremely distracting
As bonus feedback: might want to rethink your music choice. You have a warm voice, so don't put energetic dubstep. Use ambient sounds, maybe even chill wind instruments. At least for me, painting is very zen, you want to focus, not dance
This is cash money man
God, the music is terrible. I couldn’t make it through what was probably a really good tutorial.
That looks nice, but is definately not for beginners
Then help me understand so I can make something suitable for beginners. which bit of this would you say is too advanced?
Please let me choose if I want subtitles on....they're so distracting
I've tried to do bases like this multiple times but my rocks always fall off.
Then let's fix that! What rocks are you using and what glue are you using?
Ill NEVER use GW paint on bases. They want you to buy several overpriced pots just to waste it all. You can easily use cheaper paint like Apple Barn or rattle can stuff and it often looks way better to! Save yourself lots of money.
Too hard and how do you glue your guy on that hah
Ok, what's too hard? The painting or the basing itself? There are ways to simplify everything if needed while you're learning. As for gluing a figure to it, just super glue will do the trick (pinning helps especially if it's a metal figure) , or glue the figure to the base first with plastic glue, then follow all the steps here to finish the base before you paint the figure.