Full BASING tutorial! Beginner - Pro explained. Warhammer Army Painting 101.
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- Опубликовано: 25 июн 2023
- Basing makes or breaks a miniature, so why is it often forgotten, and why are you more worried about it than you should be?
Byron is going to break down how to build a basic 'classic' miniature base, show you the 'classic' way to paint it, and then follow it up with a modern twist on this that both speeds up and improves the method, finally finishing it with some accessories, which take it from a 4/10 army base to an 8/10 army base in no time at all!
If you're wondering where the accessories came from they're mainly from 'Gamer's Grass', here's a link:
elementgames.co.uk/paints-hob...
How to Strip Miniatures fast (Ultimate Easy Guide): • HOW TO STRIP MINIATURE...
Space Marine tutorials:
Ultramarines (Airbrush + Drybrush + Wash synergy): • How to paint Ultramari...
Dark Angels (high tabletop drybrush armour): • How to paint DARK ANGE...
Salamanders (high tabletop drybrush armour): • How to paint Salamande...
Black Templars (ultra-crisp drybrush+wash armour): • How to Paint BLACK TEM...
Imperial Fists (artistic purple shadow drybrush armour): • INDOMITUS How to paint...
Space Wolves (our take on Space Wolf Grey): • Space Wolves Painting ...
Minis:
Necrons (aged Verdigris scheme): • How to Paint Necrons -...
'Ghostbuster Green' Nighthaunt (Contrast + Washes): • PAINT GHOSTLY MODELS F...
Classic Nighthaunt: • How to Paint Classic N...
Vehicle tutorials:
Space Wolves: • How to Paint Warhammer...
Turquoise Tanks (alpha legion overclocked rhino): • How to Paint a Space M...
Star Wars Legion AAT: • How to paint: AAT Batt...
Large Miniatures:
AMAZING Great unclean one in 3 hours with Drybrushing: • INSANE Great Unclean O...
Fundamental/Basic army level Techniques:
How to Control GW Texture paints (e.g. Agrellan Earth): • GW Texture Paints Unlo...
Black Armour: • PAINT BLACK ARMOUR LIK...
Leather 3 ways: • How to Paint Leather F...
White 3 ways: • Painting white miniatu...
Gold 3 ways (bonus advanced gold): • How to Paint GOLD: FAS...
Yellow 4 ways: • How to Paint Yellow Wa...
Assembling, converting, and painting Forgeworld (Rogue Idol): • Re-posing an Orruk Rog...
Paint Realistic Flames - with DRYBRUSHING!: • How to Paint FLAMES an...
Chipping using AK Interactive Products: • Easy Chipping effects ...
Terrain:
Glowing 40k/SF Terrain: • How to paint 40K terra...
Glowing/firey/endless spells: • Paint all GLOWING Terr...
Dungeons: • Game Changing MODULAR ...
Grey Walls: • How to paint terrain D...
Upgrade those Grey walls with enamel washes in 3 quick steps!: • Upgrade ANY terrain in...
Glowing Green GHOST WALL: • Drybrush Striking Glow...
Synthwave Purple/Pink Wall: • Drybrush Fluorescent G...
Yellow Shipping Container: • PAINTING YELLOW MADE E...
Texture paint (agrellan) Basing Drybrush Scheme tutorials:
Mars/Desert Basing (quick, 'warm' basing): • How to Paint QUICK & E...
Cracked Lava Base: • How to Paint Volcanic/...
Grimdark (cool grey): • How to paint High qual...
Huge bases fast (airbrush, drybrush, wash): • How to Paint Big Bases...
Icy Bases: • How to paint Icy Tundr...
Basing Tutorials:
Metallic Sector Mechanicus 3 ways: • Simple Sci-Fi Industri...
Build a Scenic Base fast (with greenstuff and a rock!): • BUILD a better base fo...
Paint your Scenic Base - Spooky Basing: • How to Paint a Moonlit...
Limestone Basing: • How to base miniatures...
In this video Byron’s using the Artis Opus Brushes!
Series D: These high-quality brushes are perfectly designed for stippling, smudging, drybrushing, buffing, and even edge-highlighting. store.artis-opus.com/collecti...
Series S - The perfect point, the ideal everyday brush: store.artis-opus.com/collecti...
Series M - Shorter heads for precision detailing: store.artis-opus.com/collecti...
Series D Brush set: store.artis-opus.com/collecti...
XL Series D: store.artis-opus.com/collecti...
Accessories (brush racks, cleaner, pallets): store.artis-opus.com/
#ArtisOpus #SeriesD #Drybrushing
What's the next 'hobby basic' should we cover? 🤔🤔 Best suggestion wins a brush set of your choice!
If you're wondering where the accessories came from they're mainly from 'Gamer's Grass', here's a link:
elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby-and-scenery/paints-hobby-and-scenery-by-manufacturer/gamers-grass
Buy the brushes used in this video: store.artis-opus.com/
mixing your own chromatic blacks and browns... so much more valuable than just using black paint, and so much more versatile. black is a boring color that can't be made more interesting, but chromatic blacks can bring out other colors!
@@Mekhami Love this! My old favourite used to be snakebite + chaos black, which made the most amazing olive :)
Such good content as always. Do you have a way I can contact you about a charity thing I am setting up with a couple local gaming stores teaching new painters?
Is artis opus your company?
@@stewartlee2368 It is yes, I'm one of the founders, why do you ask, buddy?
I'd love to see a tutorial on integrating miniatures with the many basing ideas you've presented. You mention in this video how important that is, so helping us take it to that next level would be much appreciated!
For example, I'm currently using your "perfect Grimdark foundation" bases for a Blood Angels kill team because the cold tones complement the red armour, but my models are clearly standing "on" the base rather than "in" the setting. That's partly because I'm painting them separately and gluing the mini on as a final step, but I'm sure there must be other ways of making them look more like a unified concept.
Thanks for another really helpful tutorial, your channel is one of the main reasons why I've been enjoying getting back into the hobby so much (and why I now have a collection of Artis Opus brushes 🤣)
Really appreciate your style of tutorials, they do a fantastic job of hitting that balance between technical explanation and easy to digest for newer people. Really makes it appeal to a broad audience and I feel like there's something in them for everyone.
Would love to see a follow up video on integrating models into basing, and creating a connection between the two so that it doesnt just look like a model plonked on a base. I'm thinking things like the dust of the base coming up onto the boots, mud splatter, some snow transfer, that sort of mild step and how big a different it can create.
Most liked comment, my man! Hit us up on Instagram with your address, set, and texture palette choice
BATCH PAINTING TYRANIDS - colour base coat slapchop!
With the launch of Leviathan, I have a lot of tyranids to paint with my son. I'd love to see how you batch drybrush tyranids to give a good finish and table top ready army.
Awesome video by the way
I have a teeny-tiny collection of different bases which help me a lot finding a suitable scheme/theme for a project. It's very useful to experiment on a small scale and even when I am not much feeling like painting or assembling I can always tinker around with spare bases - plus it really gets your creativity going.
Like a library? Love this!
@@ArtisOpus A small one :) I think it helps visualising a theme or at least deciding for a darker or brighter base as a starting point :)
Such a good idea, definitely stealing it
@@-moongorilla- don't consider it stealing. Glad to give an idea to someone else in the hobby.
It's good to see a staple of basing from 1990's coming back: PVA glue. The last few decades have seen people move on to other basing methods - especially for display - that simply don't use the stuff anymore. But for a solid, durable finish to a basic-but-effective scenic base, PVA still gets it done.
Absolutely does, plus if it's thick it's got enough tacky finish to hold stuff that bit better for positioning, definitely my preferred way, if not the fastest!
PVA glue is probably your single best friend in terrain building of any type. Not only does it stick stuff down but a 50:50 wash with water over anything will seal it like stone. And best of all, it’s virtually colourless when it dries.
This was the best video that has ever RUclipsd.
Wait until the next ;)!
I love how chill these videos are. Thank you
Really fantastic video and tutorial. What I love about this video is that there are no cuts, in the production process, one straight line creating the base from A-Z.
As when there are cuts in a video, for a beginner like me, it's sometimes hard to follow because certain things are so natural too you, so you skip them, while that is not the case for a beginner like me. Of course, I understand you can't make all video like this, too much time-consuming for both party. However, if possible from time to time such video would love it.
Thx for your effort
I'd love a whole series on basting for various environments! Amazing video as always, Mr Opus
Mhhm, I wonder if other people would, too. I'll have a think if we could at least find a way to do a single in-depth one on the subject, in a way that people would click :D
@@ArtisOpus dude. the biggest problem i have at the moment is there are not alot of basing vids out there and that is my biggest weaknes in the hobby. i cant base worth a day. more vids all the way.
Love that you’re doing this
This is gonna help me a lot with my new seraphon jungle bases. Thanks!!!
brilliant vid... glad u take the time to show each and every step
Leaving in the sand for a grittier look is a great trick. The "wet look" sand is something I've been struggling to avoid, thanks for the tip!
No worries man, it makes all the difference!
This has inspired me so much for things I want to do for my next few project! Thank you!
I followed this tutorial for my base on Alarielle, and it looks amazing!!! thank you!!!!
Amazing dude! Got a link to socials so people can see?
@@ArtisOpus ive tried to reply to this about 5 times and it wont let me share the link. ive tagged you on instagram. thanks again!!! great tutorial
Bamboo. I mounted some old Vietnam figures I had (120mm) entering a Bamboo forest. In my case they are so big, I did not bother with leaves, just made them all about the same size and painter the tops black. The trunk is 2 sizes of wood dowel, the thin wire wrapped around (I used a double wrap, single would be better) super glued on, and the whole thing painted over with multiple coats of ModPodge to cover the wire and make it all more naturally rounded. Then based, pained a rather bright green, washed, dry brushed with lighter green, then splattered with thinned gray paint (as some Bamboo can have a gray.. algae?). Topped off by painting the wire with a thin line of black and a stripe off off white immediately above it. I never did find a decent way yo make leaves, so I took dead pine needles and sprinkled it over the base for dead leaves, but that only works at 120mm scale. Unfortunately I cannot show you the result. But give it a shot at warhammer scale.
Just getting into the hobby and all of your videos have been giving me so much confidence that I can actually develop the skills to make great models. Thanks!
Our pleasure, buddy!
Very glad you showed using a wash over the paper plants, now I'm willing to try them out. Thanks!!!
Makes *ALL* the difference, even speed-painting those white edges kill me :)
Can’t wait to watch this
It's a big one! Can't wait to share, should cover everything people need to really level up simply and effectively!
Dried tea is my go to basing material. Woody and earthy, natural variation, deep red tone already built in. Just cut open the teabag once used and dry batches in the oven.
For one, thank you for introducing me to Gamer Grass, great looking, good selection and great price.
As for ideas for more basics videos I would request freehand banners. That blank piece of rippled plastic that sticks out like a sore thumb and you never quite know what to do with it beyond slapping some transfers on it or trying to put a design down and it looks totally strange because on the uneven surface.
Lots of great ideas, many thanks. I often drybrush the tufts to give some variety, usually making the ends lighter. I also sometimes put a darker colour in and around the base of tuft, although this is a bit harder. And good old fashioned flock, glued down with PVA can make a really nice mossy texture that with a bit of paint and a drybrush can look quite realistic. I use the flocks made by Javis.
Great video! The second base method is very close to how I’ve been doing mine. 👍
Thanks man! I did wonder if anyone was, it works so well :)
The 21st century’s Bob Ross.
Made my day :)
Super video as always. Think I've learned more from these than anywhere else! I'd really love to see some videos on how to prep models correctly using different hobbying tools! Things like sanding ticks and green stuff (if you recommend them of course) as that's where I most struggle. Great series. Keep it up!
This was wonderful useful.
I have been starting to build up my basing by using cork sheet stacked to make fallen rock and tiny stones as rubble.
I also have used shards of egg shells to use as broken but to tyranid eggs scattered around.
Don’t know if they come out of eggs but one do 😅
I imagine they do, the moment I think of tyranids I'm already at Jurassic Park :)
I keep seeing the Gamer Grass plants in my FLGS, and I've always wondered how they work - I am racing down to buy a boatload of them now! Thanks Byron!
My pleasure, tell your FLGS you're welcome ;)
if your base has a plug take a Q tip snip it in half and stick it head up part way through the hole and apply base material around it
I love this!
really appreciate the content man, i use stuff like tea and mixed herbs for forest basing materials along with coconut fibres, i would also add that adding magnets to bases prior to fitting models is also a good idea
Makes loads of sense, Andy Wardle uses stuff like this (although I don't think he makes it himself), and it's surprisingly effective.
I still can't 'not paint' my bases, maybe at some point :D
These look fantastic. I think a little time spent researching biomes and what plants grow together would be time well spent.
100%, cannot stress enough how much this is a way to instantly clock your mini's as 'right', it makes a huge difference, one or two types of tuft/shrub, certain ground/rocks, and you're on an instant win.
Personal fav is the limestone scrubland I associate with Spain/Greek coastal areas, I have no idea why people don't use it, as it could be anywhere, and works with almost any mini, plus a perfect excuse to take dust up legs :)
@ArtisOpus definitely. I've recently acquired 7 of "The Eight" Farsight Enclave models. Plan is to pick up the new Farsight to complete the group and get a nice Asian inspired base set together. Need to look what grows out there other than Cherry Blossoms 😂
Great video as always. Good tip on putting a wash on the laser printed plants, I’ll be following that advice shortly. You need to invest in some tweezers though - much easier than using a knife to put them in place !
I have some excellent ones... Which I have lost :D you're completely right!
I'd love a weathering and battle damage video, I don't think I'm making it look very convincing at the moment
Good one, and something that plenty of people struggle with!
I had exactly the same problem myself ages ago, and it is tricky, what I found is that I was usually over-doing things. Less is more and restraint is a powerful thing to have for weathering! From long experience of 1/35 scale military modeling I learned that washes are king and working backwards is often best, for mud/dust effects, if using more than one colour, start from the lightest colour for the thinnest/dryest layers, just dump this on, then with a dry clean brush, lightly swipe the brush down in the direction of gravity, don't worry if it's not uniform, randomness is good! Let dry (if using acrylics, if using enamels/oils, don't bother letting them fully dry, just go ham and crack on, they'll do the rest) then add your darker/fresher/wetter layers in smaller areas over the top. For an army (especially on infantry) just use 1 colour, focus on the low bits, use washes because dry brushing hits all the wrong areas for dirt/dust deposits and remember the less is more thing! As for products, I find the ultimate modelling products washes are awesome but I have only found them on ump's own website, they're water soluble and clay based so dry super Matt and they can be re-activated with water, look scary dark when wet but dry much lighter, slap them on, let them dry, streak downwards gently with a damp brush and boom! The light dirt wash is awesome for dust effects. As for chipping, there's really no quick way to make it look great, and honestly it's mostly practice, getting your paint thinning down, and muscle memory. Night Shift did an awesome video all about chipping and it's super helpful for reference. I don't know how helpful this may be, but hopefully you get something from it to tide you over until the fine folks from Artis opus do a video for it at some point down the line. Also, well done for reading all my nonsense, it's very waffley, but I really do hope it has helped even a little bit, weathering is super fun and really makes your stuff look cool because it adds context and story to your models which in the end add for more interest than fancy blending and endless hours of nmm/fancy pants highlighting techniques!
@@simonleach6632 thank you! Super helpful and detailed 👍
@@laurabrand3007 no worries, like I said, I really hope it's helpful!
Some of the micro techniques used here really validate my current practise. Glad I'm not the only one who is a fussy baser and enjoys being particular about how I go about it.
One thing I do differently is cleaning the edge of the base while the glue is still wet as opposed to letting it dry first. Just running the thumb around the rim to make sure each base is perfect before glue dries. Occasionally, this method will drag a little of the sand or base debris in an undesirable way, but is quickly fixed with a later step. Failing that, a well placed tuft.
Thats nearly like I make most of my bases but only with Sand, Stones and a little bit of Gras. The main difference is that I paint the edge with "Graveyard Earth", I like this tone and it looks like the Base were made of wood.
It is a classic for rims, you're not tempting me from my black, though :)
"citadel sand" got me lol
Cleanest sand evs :)
These bases look wild! I'd love to see a video on the artis opus take on painting big box campaign games. I'm currently undergoing painting one now and I try random things from all sorts of content creators. Most recently, I took a set of series D to a few minis in the box and I was blown away with the results of drybrushing vs traditional.
Ak has a large line of basing products that are great to use and I would love to see some videos using their products. Some of them haven't had much use even on their own channel.
Love your tutorials, I would love to see a wasteland one, I have 80 krieg imperial guard painted just struggling with the bases. Bought some miniature barb wire just struggling with inspiration!
Great Work buddy :)
Cheers man!
Great tutorial! Love to see weathering and battle damage on troopers (e.g space marines, orks, tyrannids) and vehicles please 🙏
Ok, this seems to be a theme, already! We will have a good think about battle damage :) thanks
I think a easy slam dunk video idea would be painting the pre sculpted Star Wars Shatterpoint bases and/or the Marvel Crisis Protocal bases :)
I was meant to get some of these early but it fell through for some reason!
Basing is like a second hobby within the hobby.
Just need to finish it off with magnetized trays to help prevent broken minis on game night.
Extra style points for display cases done in the same world as the bases.
:D I always made my stuff gaming-practical, for me that was 1p/2p coins in the bases for weight, and to stick to magnetic sheeting for transport, just super-useful on the table
The basing style I've been struggling with is urban, but mostly not ruins. like where the road meats the sidewalk or the big concrete/stone slabs where lots of foot traffic is expected. Maybe even with urban refuse.
i have an alternative method of doing doing the base
i glue down all the rocks and debris on the base, anything sit in sand, nothing that would sit ontop of sand (sink in vs grow out of might be another way to think of it)
when dry i hit it with a gloss black spraypaint, not caring to much about whats on top but aiming to get a nice smooth coat on the base rim
then i paint up the glued items, be as messy as you like but avoid getting anything on the base rim and avoid touching it if you havent let the spraypaint harden properly
next i brush on PVA glue to anywhere i want sand, making sure to cover the base and hug the rim of debris items
when you have the whole base covered , drop it in the sand tub and gently shake it in a circular horizontal motion until it is submerged in sand
take it out , knock off any excess back into the tub and run a damp finger or microfiber cloth around the rim to knock off any cheeky overhanging sand
last step is to stick on your tufts and other on top of sand items
and that it
depending on what kind of terrain you are doing and what kind of mini you are placing, will determine when you put the mini on
but it can go on before the sand or after , depending on how sunk into the dirt your unit needs to be
if going on after, do the mini before the tufts step, this way if you need to do a second dip in the sand to fill in under feet or something you can do so without filling bushes with sand
no need to spend time painting sand, its already sand colour
as sand comes in plenty of freely available colours and a massive range of bought ones too
there is no excuse for not starting with a sand colour that is already the end result colour
I'd like an industrial wasteland video, with rubble, pipes and stuff like that
This is a very natural next step, maybe even mixed, urban decay with the plants coming back, I love it as a theme :)
Would love to see a way of basing like cobbel stones but broken up and grass and weeds growing in places for larger bases for the new old world
I find that some of the stronger contrast paints are quite nice to wet blend with on a base, if you want a more subtle effect.
I mostly play Blood Bowl, so would love to see a video on various types of sports pitches for bases. You often see static grass with some painted white lines, but it rarely looks natural!
I always think this, personally I'd probably put my guys on a very dusty and well-worn patchy-pitch, for this exact reason!
I'll take note of this, if we get the opportunity to show various finishes in a future video, I'll try a BB one :)
Hey, Love your style of work and the presentation of your videos!
I'm just wondering about when it come to attaching the model to the base, that it might be 'overloaded' with clutter/basing awesomeness and you may not be able to fit your mini on...
Also, would you suggest getting some of the highlight of the base or even some of the darker shades and drybrushing them onto the feet or whatever is touching the ground of the mini to make it feel like it 'belongs' more?
Keep up the awesome tutorials, you'll be on 100k subs soon!
I'd also like to see you revisit dirty down rust. When you did your video you were doing trial and error and learning it's uses. I'd like to see a guide on how to use it, what different techniques you can do to achieve different results, now you presumable have experience with it.
I'd like to see a video on painting/weathering to make the effect of painting faded in the sunlight.
I like this, there's a lot to be said for desaturating, especially with weathering!
Nice, love the idea of less effort achieving a good result. Lazy being my middle name. Tying in the figure with the base on a variety of different terrain schemes whilst not worrying too much about the uniform of the figure or vehicle!
Absolutely the way to go for efficiency! Especially if you hide mistakes/bad bits with tufts, you're on to an absolute winner :)
Byron's shopping list: PVA glue, screaming skull, bananas......
:D :D 🍌
I would love to see your take on a green flock 90's base.
One thing that really helps with making bases look more natural, and also happens to be very easy, is not having sad grey rocks. If you do have sad grey rocks then wash them with a something like a sepia, a green, or red wash. A skin wash would also work. I've worked with stones for a few years and my dad have worked with them all his life and sad grey rocks really do stand out more then they should on bases, especially on nicely painted bases. Very few types of stone are just grey, quite a lot of them have some other color in them as well. It's a really easy step to make your sad grey rocks look a lot more "real" :)
Nice work! Maybe add the tufts before you paint, especially if you got an airbrush. Then paint everything to get it to blend together better. Otherwise I feel like the tufts look just stuck on(like they are). Something I learned too late with my army basing.
Very good point, and an obvious omission here!
Love some basing! I have an idea. I'd like to see you take a nicely painted model. then make a base that is so good it draws your attention away from the model. Maybe a couple of models on varying degrees of basing quality to showcase just how good a fantastic base really makes your model?
gorilla glue can be used on bases to achieve an uneven surface as it expands as it dries, then add the sand/gravel after :)
Can you control it enough? I have used it a lot, but more for DIY :)
@@ArtisOpus It takes some managing when you first apply it to ensure it doesn't run over the edge of the base, but you can always trim any excess after its dried with a hobby knife. I've used it with good success! Another thing I have found recently for basing is a set of 24 soft pastels from 'the works' which can be scraped into pigment powders in a variety of colours for under £5
I think coming into the hobby with 10ed I'm going to have to give basing some more thought. I don't think there would be any green grass in my battles 😅 maybe some space marine helmets or tyranid/ zerg looking terrain. Something to fit the scene for my space elves
:) of course, you can get tiny 'dead' looking tufts that work well, but it sounds like rubble and pigments could be your friends!
@@ArtisOpus can't say that I've seen pigments in the few LGS I visit 🤔
I'd love to see a video on the tyranid at the start
It's all been recorded! A video on schemes is in edit, it took 4 goes though, so it's a taking a bit of time to format :)
@ArtisOpus looking forward to seeing it for inspiration to tackle the tyranids of the leviathan box
Cool
I'm drybrushing right now!
Good man, keep fighting the good fight!
I could use a model assembly tutorial to send to newbies. It's hard to explain well with just words. And when we are the hobby store it often gets overlooked since the point of a perfectly assembled model is the fact you cant see anything of the process...
This is in the works, couldn't agree more on how intimidating the process is for people!
@@ArtisOpus It'd be awesome if you guys can pull shots out of it like "Gap filling", "Barrel drilling", "How to remove mold lines from a model with the back of the knife"...
P.S. I actually failed to explain the last one to a friend and I am thinking both of us might actually be mentally challenged...
How would you approach giving a base more height? Maybe for a character or a unit leader?
Any tips on products or techniques would be great. I’ve seen mentions of cork or plasticard, but don’t know where to start.
A better way to shape and curl paper foliage is with a small ball stylus on stiffish foam - a trick used by paper flower makers.
I recently did a bunch of desert/dry bases and used a crackle medium (actuall AK Ineractive Light & Dry Crackle Effenct) and found the results to be rather unpredictable. I'd love a video discussing how to use that type of medium and how to paint it afterward. I probably should have used PVA glue and sand for the sandy parts insteaod of AK's pre-mixed sand texture. The problem I had (more my problem than the product I suppose) is that i tried to use it to hide the shape of bases of things embedded in the sand, but it shrank when dry and shows the outline anyway 🙂
Perhaps for things buried in the sand, rather than relying on sand and glue or texture paint alone to create the natural slope that would form around it, embed the object into a little bit of green stuff or epoxy putty of your choice and sculpt the mound that way. That should help sell the 'half-buried object' effect and you don't need to build up as many layers of sand and glue/texture paint so shrinkage should be less of an issue.
Nice. Basing gives so much and is so versatile. May I request a tutorial regarding varnish? What type(Matt gloss) and is brush application best? If so how many coats/Thinning etc.
Great as ever, my man, I've thought about this for a long time, actually had the discussion with Ian a couple of days back, he's a photographer by trade, and knows his photoshop, I described good varnish as 'RL Photoshop', it's so powerful when used right!
@@ArtisOpus it's a minefield for new painters. Even rattle cans demand so much shaking, temperature and distance it can be very off-putting
Any color is fine as long as it's black!
I don't have anything to add I just would really like a texture pad.
:D they're available here! series D - Drybrushing - Artis Opus Store (second page for my preferred and redesigned 'XXL'
I have been mulling over making swampy boreal forest bases for some undead but I am struggling to think how to achieve it in a way that feels natural, I live next to a forest bog so I know I want lots of mosses and pools of stagnant water but I am struggling to allude to there being a forest and the products I have been looking at to do the ground cover just don't feel right. tips from anyone would be appreciated
Thank you for this tutorial. Are there any advantages of dry brushing before washing? I have seen some wash first with shades then dry brush after.
Hey buddy, yeah there is, I touch on it in the tutorial but neither is 'better'. Washing ties it all together also also smooths things out (it can counter chalkiness). However this makes things less sharp. So sometimes I do a bit of both, to keep the details at the end, like you see on our slate:)
@@ArtisOpus Thank you very much!!!
You mentioned "taking the base up the feet" of the miniature. What would you recommend to put on a miniature standing on a snow base? My intuition says just adding white paint wouldn't look right to be ice and snow...
Your intuition is right, it's worth looking at photography of skiers or explorers with snow on them, to look how it clumps on clothing/shoes.
The base looks good and easy to repeat. But what colors did you use for the ternagaunt weapon? I m especially interested in the purple.
:) we have a video coming up about paint schemes where I do a few versions of the tyranid, it's magos purple contrast over a bone base drybrushed white
@@ArtisOpus Awesome! I do own Wraithbone, Magos purple and white. Will try that out! Hopefully the video shows the hole scheme, he looks pretty good not gonna lie. Thanks!
My greatest issue with basing is glueing miniatures to hardened clay used for terrain. I find my minis tend to fall off the bases eventually.
Any tips?
Absolutely, pin through it, or use plastic blocks, and stick your clay around it :)
Could you cover varnishing? With brush, with spray, etc?
A couple have asked for this, I think it'd be great content!
Bases look great. One question (not really a criticism- more an honest inquiry.) Why did you paint the larger rocks in such a different color from the rest of the sand? Wouldn't the surrounding dirt and sand be made up of those type of rocks? I understand having a slightly different shade, so as to stand apart, but I don't understand grey stones with dark red/ brown sand.
Again, the results are great, as they are mostly blended in with grass and other foliage. I'm just being curious.
Thanks
No worries man :). Quite a lot of the time you'll get rocks that aren't a similar colour, if the ground's colour isn't as a result of underlying rocks (if it's all organic, not clay etc), so if it was limestone scrub everything would be similar colours.
Having said this I could have weathered them more to tie them in, these look a little bit like they were freshly rained on :D
Questions are always good, criticisms, too!
Thanks!
What is he using for a color palette?
What are you using for your texture pad? I glued several bits in a box but it's a pain to use...
We invented them :) so ours! Check on the first or second page here, I use the redesigned XXL, it has more working space around the edge: store.artis-opus.com/collections/series-d-drybrushing
@@ArtisOpus awesome! Thank you so much! 🤘
What painting scheme is that on the tyranid? looks good.
It's coming up soonish! All been recorded :)
@@ArtisOpus Thanks, i look forward to it.
What ever did "The Cube" go Byron? I´m still waiting...
A very good question, buddy! Catch us in a live-chat some time and I'll explain :)
@@ArtisOpus Will do! :)
At the risk of sounding stupid, how do you then attach the miniatures to to base as it’s very uneven now and not plastic on plastic to glue together? Thanks
Not stupid at all, you can either make a 'spacer' from sprue and plastic glue it to it after doing the base, or 'pin' through the feet.
The plastic spacer is really practical, so helpful :)
@@ArtisOpus thanks mate. I will try both methods next time. I do have a base with polyfilla on when I created a 3rd edition Templar base. Thanks again.
i have noticed alot of you paints are... not really mixed in the cups. any reason for that?
You mean in the pots? If you're taking quite a lot out like I am it doesn't matter too much, some brands separate more/less so I always shake them
@@ArtisOpus sorry pots i ment. yeah. sometmes when you pop one open to use there is not any paint on the tongue in the lid and it looks like is sperated a little. but you also dig that brush pretty deep into the pot to pull from the bottem to. so i was just thinkng you where taking more pigment dense paint from the bottem.
;p also i just ordered a bunch of stuff from you bound for australia. :P gotta get it before tax time heh.
I heard "Thanks Manchester". Another local! North or South Manchester?
Right in the centre, hence the frequent city-siren-soundtrack :D... Unfortunately also somehow hayfever hotspot, best of both worlds!
@@ArtisOpus Doesn't get much better on the outskirts in Bury! For hayfever or sirens...
Do you have any videos on the use of pigment powders? You see them included in a lot of basing tutorials, but no one seems to use a setter (actual setter/pva etc).
That's probably fine for a painting tutorial, but would that actually be good for models that are transported, touched, played with etc?
did he just say "here we have a successfully based miniature?" XD what is an unsuccessfully based mini mate?? xD
I've seen a fair few at tournaments in my time 👀👀👀
@@ArtisOpus no one speaks like that, when is a base unsuccessful? you can say it is incomplete, uneventful, colorless, bland, but unsuccessful? where do you draw the line to a base that has become successful?
and how much of a waste of time is this explanation , right now? xD
Glad to know I'm not the only one who paints their hand when they paint their minis lol
Am i the only one who likes a little spill over the edge of the base? As if the base ground goes further than the edge?
Way too much clutter for my taste. Everywhere a given figure goes, regardless of the terrain it crosses, it will be dragging the same plants with it.