I work for spray foam company. You may have made a huge mistake spraying on that foam board. Foam needs to make an air tight bond to the roof deck so no air gets between the foam and roof. If air does get in, then the humidity in the air will stay in there making mold. Also, depending on your climate, you may have snow or just extreme cold which will make condensation in that air space. Your foam board is not air tight to the roof deck, so you left yourself with all that space for future mold which will rot away your roof decking. There is lots to know about foam that you can't just learn from the internet in a few days of research. Good luck.
Yeah I considered doing this 2 years ago and researched. Ultimately decided it was too untested and I went with regular blow in insulation. Yeah it's way harder work than this easy spray foam... now 2 years later i see all these articles about impossible to sell houses because of DIYers doing this. Thank God I went with the 'normal way'.
I tackled a project similar to this last spring, and basically everything you said and showed was accurate to my experience. I insulated the void where my cantilevered house juts out which, I found out after opening it up, was very poorly insulated. The worst part about the experience, which you brought up, was having to worry about the tip clogging up with foam if you stopped spraying for 30 seconds. Working on a ladder to reach the area I needed to spray made things so much more difficult, and I ended up going through all my nozzles as I took too long repositioning my ladder at times. I cannot stress enough how important the Tyvek suit and respirator were, especially if you're working above you and foam is raining down on you. Overall the project was worth it and I saved a lot of money doing it myself, but I'd say only a particularly brave person should attempt it themselves.
Im currently fixing a home that had the same thing done to it. Not having the spray foam bonded to the plywood caused condensation. And we'll now we are replacing the entire roof from the top plate up.
The top plate up? Where is there a "top plate" on a roof? Are you telling me you had to take the gables off too? Im having trouble figuring out where these top plates are that youre referring to.
@@andrewsbbq I don’t think I would of put the foam board between the rafters. I would have just sprayed foam it all. But if you have fresh air coming from duct vents then you eliminate the need for ridge soffit vents.
@@kyleginder1322 HVAC air does not absolve the need for roof venting, especially in a conditioned space. This is true even if you spray foam the rafter cavity. On top of venting, thebgap also reduces the exterior roof hear extending the life of shingles. You dont vent and you will get condensation. What's worse with spray foam is it hides it and rots away. This is why insurance companies are starting to refuse coverage on houses with spray foam. To much misinformation out there, and false promises from spray foam contractors
What are we going to do with those R6 rafters and studs now??? Kidding, thanks for the video, especially including all of the real dollar values. Hope you have a good and warm Christmas.
Doesn’t look like the foam expanded at all. Usually, when you watch professional sprayers spray the spray foam? It waits a couple seconds, but then it suddenly starts to expand into the stud cavity, & I don’t see that happening on what you’re doing.
30 years a reno contractor. What drives me nuts is amateurs that post "how to" videos on their first experience. The Internet is clogged with this stuff. Like "hey this is my first time using a chainsaw" There is so much misinformation out there and you tripped over the topic with the least agreement. The video should have been about venting. Do I or don't I.
So I'm super anti-spray foam. But the idea of putting foam backer board insulation behind is actually genius whethwr you knew it or not. Removal will be so much easier with that pink board behind if it ever needs ro be removed.
I was told by some it was a bad idea and needed to be sprayed directly on to the roof deck. However I’ve tried to replace plywood on a roof like that and it was miserable.
I was researching different foam types for some time. Thought spray foam was fantastic, all the main points hit when wanting to insulate well. Until I think about, repairs, renovations, etc. let's say you get a bad shingle job or a metal roof that's incorrectly flashed. Or your chimney is poorly designed for flashing. Or you windows aren't caulked and leak. Foam becomes a massive pain in the ass. I've seen it. Yeah sure you're still going to have to deal with those problems regardless of what insulation you choose. But I sure hate dealing with cured foam mkre
Personally? A half-inch spacer with half-inch foamboard next to your roof deck, allowing for soffit/ridge ventilation would make your shingles very happy. As it is now, they'll have no way to diffuse the sun's heat. Plus, it would lower the heat level in the attic.
You actually want to do the JOB in as hot a bit of weather as you can stand, The foam expands more and covers better. I have used Tiger Foam and Foamy Foam They were 600 sq ft kits for $600 back in 2007. I LEft my attic cold. I LIved up north. I used Aluminum double bubble on all the walls (across the studs) after 2 inches of foam. Also all the ceilings and taped them off. Cut My Heating bill by 80%. It's still good. My ex refuses to sell the house. I also did the sill and the basement ceiling.
@@samuelkingentrepreneur Check the BOx. Mine was clear it said you can't use it below 60 Degrees. The Foam guys in Jersey wouldn't consider foaming my house till the middle of March.
Thanks for clarifying this. My initial impression was as long as it’s stored somewhere warm before applying it would be good. But now that you say it I feel like I do remember seeing this somewhere
I believe by putting on the Styrofoam on first, you are not making a seal to the plywood and are opening yourself up for mold to grow between the wood and the Styrofoam
I worked in commercial building construction for 39 years as the drywall and metal framing contractor. And we always subbed out the insulation package , That scope of work is very large and there are so many different kinds of products to use for different things that it is more cost effective. which included firestopping, insulation and weather barriers. So many types of products in insulation and caulking and weather barriers. I think with the money you saved may not be worth it especially since you did it wrong. Sorry! Maybe you should have watched some more you tube's on the subject yourself. Do you know how hard it is to chip out spray foam? It is a bitch!. When I built my house in 2000. I even subbed out the insulation package because I think the price of material was cheaper through them. I came home from work and it was all done. I do applaud your efforts to learn and do things on your on. We all like to save money. Especially if you have the time to do it. Which is not always the case. Good luck on your project.
I am curious why you did not spray foam the wood rafters also? I have been seeing some stuff about how if you leave uninsulated portions that can get cold, you can get condensation in those areas and later mold. Matt Risinger has a video on this called "Major Lenders Reject Homes with Spray Foam Insulation - WHAT HAPPENED?"
I used Dap touch and seal. I believe these kits are all pretty similar. I tagged one that Lowes carries but that’s not the exact product I used. I bought mine from industrial products but I know Lowes and Home Depot is most accessible to most people and I really think the kits they carry will be very similar
@@samuelkingentrepreneur 30 years a contractor. No venting, moisture stays and rots. What might have saved you is the rigid. That 1/2" space might be enough to let moisture flow out. But it'll rot where it drains.
@@jeffreydolph6469if he going to make it a conditioned room by adding a ductwork then it doesn’t need to be vented. But if he doesn’t add the ductwork then yes you are right.
Spray foam against the inside of the roof decking is a HUGE no no !!!!!!!!!!!!! Traps heat and causes the shingles to deteriorate quickly. Traps moisture and causes mold issues decking deterioration ! AND it will void MANY shingle warranties ! IF you have to insulate the attic (as a living space), attached sheathing to the bottom of the roof trusses and allow for air to enter at the bottom and exist at the top.
@@philhensley5986 The area below the roof decking must have an air circulation space. Otherwise the heat is trapped in the decking and causes premature single failure. You should never insulate (attic side) tight to the decking. Trapping moisture in that area is even worse.
@@philhensley5986 Do what you want with insulating the decking. It will overheat the shingles.....It will trap any moisture and condensation (destroying the decking) AND will void your shingle warranty. Keep throwing them and I will keep KNOCKING them out of the park !
I work for spray foam company. You may have made a huge mistake spraying on that foam board. Foam needs to make an air tight bond to the roof deck so no air gets between the foam and roof. If air does get in, then the humidity in the air will stay in there making mold. Also, depending on your climate, you may have snow or just extreme cold which will make condensation in that air space. Your foam board is not air tight to the roof deck, so you left yourself with all that space for future mold which will rot away your roof decking. There is lots to know about foam that you can't just learn from the internet in a few days of research. Good luck.
One can only hope he left a continuous air gap from his soffit vents to the ridge vents.. but given his statements in the video I’m betting no.
It's not the same quality of foam as you get with heated applications.
@@philhensley5986it doesn’t matter. This type of install is a disaster after a few years.
Yeah I considered doing this 2 years ago and researched. Ultimately decided it was too untested and I went with regular blow in insulation. Yeah it's way harder work than this easy spray foam... now 2 years later i see all these articles about impossible to sell houses because of DIYers doing this. Thank God I went with the 'normal way'.
You could also put the canisters on a rolling cart to move easier.
I tackled a project similar to this last spring, and basically everything you said and showed was accurate to my experience. I insulated the void where my cantilevered house juts out which, I found out after opening it up, was very poorly insulated. The worst part about the experience, which you brought up, was having to worry about the tip clogging up with foam if you stopped spraying for 30 seconds. Working on a ladder to reach the area I needed to spray made things so much more difficult, and I ended up going through all my nozzles as I took too long repositioning my ladder at times. I cannot stress enough how important the Tyvek suit and respirator were, especially if you're working above you and foam is raining down on you. Overall the project was worth it and I saved a lot of money doing it myself, but I'd say only a particularly brave person should attempt it themselves.
Well said. Thanks for your input
Im currently fixing a home that had the same thing done to it. Not having the spray foam bonded to the plywood caused condensation. And we'll now we are replacing the entire roof from the top plate up.
The top plate up? Where is there a "top plate" on a roof? Are you telling me you had to take the gables off too? Im having trouble figuring out where these top plates are that youre referring to.
@sawxpatscelts the top of the wall has a top plate.the entire roof structure had to come off.
Roof should vent from soffit to ridge, you should have an air gap behind that rigid board
Not if he plans on making it a conditioned room with ductwork
@ nope that roof still needs venting.
@@andrewsbbq I don’t think I would of put the foam board between the rafters. I would have just sprayed foam it all. But if you have fresh air coming from duct vents then you eliminate the need for ridge soffit vents.
@@kyleginder1322 HVAC air does not absolve the need for roof venting, especially in a conditioned space. This is true even if you spray foam the rafter cavity. On top of venting, thebgap also reduces the exterior roof hear extending the life of shingles.
You dont vent and you will get condensation. What's worse with spray foam is it hides it and rots away. This is why insurance companies are starting to refuse coverage on houses with spray foam. To much misinformation out there, and false promises from spray foam contractors
You sprayed over foam boards? 😮
What are we going to do with those R6 rafters and studs now??? Kidding, thanks for the video, especially including all of the real dollar values. Hope you have a good and warm Christmas.
Doesn’t look like the foam expanded at all.
Usually, when you watch professional sprayers spray the spray foam? It waits a couple seconds, but then it suddenly starts to expand into the stud cavity, & I don’t see that happening on what you’re doing.
30 years a reno contractor. What drives me nuts is amateurs that post "how to" videos on their first experience. The Internet is clogged with this stuff. Like "hey this is my first time using a chainsaw"
There is so much misinformation out there and you tripped over the topic with the least agreement.
The video should have been about venting. Do I or don't I.
So I'm super anti-spray foam. But the idea of putting foam backer board insulation behind is actually genius whethwr you knew it or not. Removal will be so much easier with that pink board behind if it ever needs ro be removed.
I was told by some it was a bad idea and needed to be sprayed directly on to the roof deck. However I’ve tried to replace plywood on a roof like that and it was miserable.
I was researching different foam types for some time. Thought spray foam was fantastic, all the main points hit when wanting to insulate well. Until I think about, repairs, renovations, etc. let's say you get a bad shingle job or a metal roof that's incorrectly flashed. Or your chimney is poorly designed for flashing. Or you windows aren't caulked and leak. Foam becomes a massive pain in the ass. I've seen it. Yeah sure you're still going to have to deal with those problems regardless of what insulation you choose. But I sure hate dealing with cured foam mkre
@ yeah it’s definitely something to consider
Yeah, you need a continuous air gap from your soffit vents to the ridge vent, otherwise you’re in for trouble.
@@TehScientistdoesn’t look like this roof has ridge vents but maybe? If not that roof deck is done for
All fine and dandy until the insurance companies in the US start refusing to insure a home with foam insulation like it started in UK
Personally? A half-inch spacer with half-inch foamboard next to your roof deck, allowing for soffit/ridge ventilation would make your shingles very happy.
As it is now, they'll have no way to diffuse the sun's heat. Plus, it would lower the heat level in the attic.
You actually want to do the JOB in as hot a bit of weather as you can stand, The foam expands more and covers better. I have used Tiger Foam and Foamy Foam They were 600 sq ft kits for $600 back in 2007. I LEft my attic cold. I LIved up north. I used Aluminum double bubble on all the walls (across the studs) after 2 inches of foam. Also all the ceilings and taped them off. Cut My Heating bill by 80%. It's still good. My ex refuses to sell the house. I also did the sill and the basement ceiling.
Hmm. I didn’t know that about temperature. It was so hot while I was applying it I just thought it might be easier if it were cooler
@@samuelkingentrepreneur Check the BOx. Mine was clear it said you can't use it below 60 Degrees. The Foam guys in Jersey wouldn't consider foaming my house till the middle of March.
Thanks for clarifying this. My initial impression was as long as it’s stored somewhere warm before applying it would be good. But now that you say it I feel like I do remember seeing this somewhere
I believe by putting on the Styrofoam on first, you are not making a seal to the plywood and are opening yourself up for mold to grow between the wood and the Styrofoam
I worked in commercial building construction for 39 years as the drywall and metal framing contractor. And we always subbed out the insulation package , That scope of work is very large and there are so many different kinds of products to use for different things that it is more cost effective.
which included firestopping, insulation and weather barriers. So many types of products in insulation and caulking and weather barriers. I think with the money you saved may not be worth it especially since you did it wrong. Sorry! Maybe you should have watched some more you tube's on the subject yourself. Do you know how hard it is to chip out spray foam? It is a bitch!. When I built my house in 2000. I even subbed out the insulation package because I think the price of material was cheaper through them. I came home from work and it was all done. I do applaud your efforts to learn and do things on your on. We all like to save money. Especially if you have the time to do it. Which is not always the case. Good luck on your project.
I am curious why you did not spray foam the wood rafters also? I have been seeing some stuff about how if you leave uninsulated portions that can get cold, you can get condensation in those areas and later mold. Matt Risinger has a video on this called "Major Lenders Reject Homes with Spray Foam Insulation - WHAT HAPPENED?"
What spray foam product did you use? Thanks for making this video - great info.
I used Dap touch and seal. I believe these kits are all pretty similar. I tagged one that Lowes carries but that’s not the exact product I used. I bought mine from industrial products but I know Lowes and Home Depot is most accessible to most people and I really think the kits they carry will be very similar
How does it do in a fire?
wery well, it burns amasingly.
How to make your house moldy, unsellable, and uninsurable
What’s the r value?
open cell or closed cell?
Isn't there a problem with the foam and insurance companies ??? And after watching some videos isn't foam extremely flammable ?
DON'T DO THIS. Spraying over foam board is a mistake
What about roof venting?
No more venting…that space is now conditioned 🫡
I was told no venting is necessary when you seal off with spray foam
@@samuelkingentrepreneur 30 years a contractor. No venting, moisture stays and rots. What might have saved you is the rigid. That 1/2" space might be enough to let moisture flow out. But it'll rot where it drains.
@@samuelkingentrepreneur you were told wrong
@@jeffreydolph6469if he going to make it a conditioned room by adding a ductwork then it doesn’t need to be vented. But if he doesn’t add the ductwork then yes you are right.
Spray foam against the inside of the roof decking is a HUGE no no !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Traps heat and causes the shingles to deteriorate quickly.
Traps moisture and causes mold issues decking deterioration ! AND it will void MANY shingle warranties !
IF you have to insulate the attic (as a living space), attached sheathing to the bottom of the roof trusses and allow for air to enter at the bottom and exist at the top.
Traps heat? Are you saying the shingles get hotter and this cause them to deteriate?
@@philhensley5986 The area below the roof decking must have an air circulation space. Otherwise the heat is trapped in the decking and causes premature single failure. You should never insulate (attic side) tight to the decking. Trapping moisture in that area is even worse.
@@darknes7800 That's not true
@@philhensley5986 Do what you want with insulating the decking. It will overheat the shingles.....It will trap any moisture and condensation (destroying the decking) AND will void your shingle warranty. Keep throwing them and I will keep KNOCKING them out of the park !
👏
Makes your home unmorgageable in the uk
No MASK? I wouldn't want to breathe that stuff in