I really admire it when you see a big job ahead of you and still roll up your sleeves and go for it, even though it's a lot of work for one guy alone, 23:21 there's no way to listen to this melody and not remember the old red. Great work Ezra, health and success always!
I built a new 55 x 72 x 16 building, and hired the spray foaming done. It was done in colder weather also. I had house wrap put under all of the steel. I wanted to be able to replace any of it in case of damage, and didn't want the foam to make that extremely hard to do. It worked well. I have had no issues with it not sticking, and that was 7 yrs ago. It is a typical post frame building like yours.
If I would have built the building I would have had something installed between the tin and the metal but I wasn't going to pull all the metal off a existing building. In the professional foams they do have cold weather formulas that have lower temperature requirements.
But if you have insurance it's better to spray directly to sheet cus then when it gets damaged they have to replace all the steel because you destroy the vapor barrier when you rip it off also when sprayed directly to sheets it adds 300% rack strength to building
@@thomasmiracle7826 it also increases the chance of moisture getting between the metal and wrap increasing chance of deterioration on metal. But a lot of people still spray directly to wrap.
I built a couple of buildings. One was my hobby shop 40 x 60 and the other was one in an enlighten industrial area. It was 60 x 80 clear span. I foamed both buildings and never regretted it money. Well spent.
@prestonking5736 After 7+ years in hotels in 8 upper Midwest holding tech seminars for ACDelco, I notice buildings crawling with workers putting insulation outside and ask questions. So, 2006, I wrapped my house in “Tyvak” and 2” of extruded polystyrene after detain mesh on edges. Scratched with wire hand brush, troweled modified cement on EIFS grade 2X4’ sheets, folded detail mesh over edges, placed cut 4’ treated fiberglass embedded in same modified cement over the field. Using a drywall hopper sprayer, troweled w/magnesium float the colored top coat. Utility bills dropped over half, no road noise and never painted. Best thing I ever did.
Happy Holiday to you and yours. We did our 40x40 x14 20 years ago and the only downside was when we replaced the roof, it was a real pain and messy, but only for a couple days.
I got my foam sheeting free from pauls sheet metal in rice lake Wisconsin, as they did roof tear offs i hauled it away, took all summer😂my barn was very well insulated
Oh yeah it's already a huge difference and iv only got half my total thickness sprayed my old shop is spray foamed and there's no other option as far as I'm concerned
I think this was a good investment for you. Are you planning to eventually put sheetrock over the wood, to create an air barrier? Can't wait for the projects you will tackle in a warm shop. Stay safe brother trucker.
O-H-I-O Porters🇺🇸 So you ordered it online at first & then had to get some extra from Menards. Hey, that happens sometimes. It sure made a difference in the heating process & will help you in the long run. That’s what matters. At least you tried something new & was willing to bring us along. The job was quite impressive. Having good tools helps…heaters, bobcat, ladders, plastic suit & protective gear. I wasn’t even thinking about using Vaseline to prevent it from sticking to your skin. I learned quite a bit, so thanks for sharing. I will have to do the same in my garage eventually, so I feel more prepared to do so. Good job, man! Don’t forget to share with us when you do Part 2. Have a Merry Christmas my friend! 🥰🤩✌️
One other issue that might come up that did with me was my insurance company insisted the foam be covered with sheetrock or some spray that was fireproof or insurance cancelled. The foam doesn't really burn that much but the fumes are deadly.
There is a video that came doing about the same exact thing. They ended up using board foam cut in place. Y-T Foam Board vs Spray Foam… Insulating our steel building/garage. Spray foam pricing has gotten MUCH more expensive due to the chemical cost at the manufacturer.
I don't know what part of the country you are in but 2-2.50 is double what we charge you may want to shop around. Just with the structural value you get from closed cell its the best way to go. Plus no sweating
Perhaps a less expensive option would have been 2" foam sheets screwed to the wood, leaving a space behind for condensation to drain. Then foam the gaps between the foam panels for an air tight seal. Cold metal with condensate will release the foam from the metal.
cheaper yes but but probably not by as much as your thinking about 30 cents less per board foot and you don't get the air sealing and vapor barrier property's of a sprayed in place foam.
@@Ezrider359 Yes and no. The wood frames support the foam board off of the metal and the spray foam seals and interlocks the foam panels creating a vapor barrier. The vapor barrier is elevated off the metal so that any condensation that happens on the inside does not stay trapped between the foam and the metal causing mold growth but runs down the inside face of the metal to the drain trough.
Less expensive but much more time consuming. I went that route 12 years ago. 1.5" panels on the walls, and 1" on the ceilings. All the wall seams were filled with the canned foam, and that was awful. Should have went froth pak way back then and just sprayed a strip on all the seams. Mine was very cost effective cause i have a place just down the road that sells reject foam panels at about 30% cost of new. If your paying full price for panels its not worth it.
All those wood stringers turn into mouse freeways. Batt insulation works that way too. Spray Foam is the way to do it! My shop is batt insulation covered with roofing tin.
One thing to keep in mind, while your contractor is doing the spray foam, you can be in your truck making money. A commercial spray foam outfit could spray that in two days at most.
you may want to spray your second layer sooner than later. Just for the fact that you haven't filled the shed up yet. By next fall if you are anything like me, there will be a lot more stuff to move out of the way. Just saying. That being said, I Liked the video very much.
Might even consider it done at this point. I have a 40x60 and we used the foam boards. 1.5" on walls and only 1" on the ceiling. They were factory reject panels at 30% cost. walls were seam sealed with can foam, and ceiling seams were only taped sealed and some has pulled away. Still the building was heatable in about 2 hours with a wood furnace. I think my biggest issue was good seals and heat leakage which he won't have a problem with. I really don't think the extra 1" of foam will make that much of a difference. in my experience sealing is key and 1" of foam insulation does work very well.
Quick question, there is an issue here in the UK of companies insulating people's loft spaces with spray foam but then mortgage companies refusing to lend against these properties over fears of damp. Once you apply your second coat, could the back of the frame timbers get condensation between the uninsulated metal? Glad to see you back btw, been missing Old Red.
Hello Ezra. The job looks just fine. The next time you will have some experience doing this kind of job. Having a high of 28 degrees doesn't sound like a fun time at all. Spending your time doing this is worth it in my opinion. I do what I can do to save money. Have good days!
When spraying foam on steel buildings, you use more than if you have wood under steel , steel is good for getting rid of air exchanges , won’t let mold grow between insulation and metal,
Hey Ezra good to see you,I don't know how I missed this show,your shop is looking great and knows there's plenty to do,hope the ole red peterbilt is doing great,I'll catch ya on the next one.
A professional foamer would be able to spray that out in one day. 2-3 inches in one pass easy with the right equipment, and remember that they use 55gal drums of A & B so they don't stop as often as you had to. Also they have heaters in the drums, pumps, and hoses, so absolute control of temperature to get maximum efficiency. You did save money doing it yourself though, just spent a lot of time on it, and as you said, your time is worth something.
If you going to have a floor poured, i would suggest putting in pex loops for heat. I built my 40x60 12+ years ago, and we did all the foam work(boards) and put in pex loops then had a crew do the pour. I didn't use the floor heat for 10 years. Just last year bought a used wood boiler and am heating my floor with it. Even with a crappier insulation job and only 1" foam boards and only wall seams foam sealed, my building stays nice and warm and doesn't use that much wood. I wish i would have went wood boiler years ago. And the 1/2 pex for the loops in the floor is fairly cheap when doing it yourself.
I plan to add the PEX loops in the floor I don't know that I'm going to install a boiler any time soon. I plan to primarily heat with a waste oil furnace
Its an expensive job with little to show for your money but sometimes you just have to bite the bullet. Nothing worse than trying to work in a freezing cold workshop. You will be glad you handed the cash over when its the middle of winter and you are nice and toasty working in there.
Spray foam tip; bend stiff wire with bend to the depth you want it once expansion is done. Bend a ring on one end for gloved have to pull out of pencil pocket. Question; Is this closed cell and insulation “R” value per inch? Thanks kindly.
I finally got mine done. It took about 4 years to save for it and do one step at a time. It’s a 30x35x13’ and I’m just tickled with it. If a nice shop of your own is something you value then go for it, hell finance it if you have to. I’ve already saved $3000 rebuilding the front end on my f350 when it needed it vs paying to have it all done. Fair warning though spray foam even doing it yourself is incredibly costly. I used one single $400 kit to see how far it went and it’s not very far at all. 😂 I went back to just using foam board since it never gets stupid cold in TN
When you're in your 20's a shop that size is not so bad to work on. When you get up in years your back hurts, knees hurt and everything else. So then you'd end out ponying up the money to hire someone to spray foam it. It's nice to save money where you can but boy the pharmacys sure stay busy dealing with the pain.
Manuka Pharm Rub Ease Gel. Look it up. It has CBD in it, but it's like magic for the aches and pains of manual labour. 5 mins and wrist and finger pain is non-existent. I use the 500mg tube, but there is a 1000mg option for real pain!
Looks like quite the job. I was wondering the other day about using that stuff. I might want to do some areas in my basement at home. I am always looking at stuff for sale on FB marketplace. I saw someone was selling a waste oil heater a few weeks back that would be perfect for that shop. It might be a good option for your shop.
I really hate to break it to you but the full sized pre made insulation sheets are below 1 dollar per board foot for an R value of 5, Even from home depot they are 65c per board foot. (20 bucks for 32 board foot 8x4 by1inch). Admittedly you would also need glue and tape but you could fit it closer to your building 3/4 over the metal to get level with your stringers then another inch or two over that. You could probably afford to cover the bottom 8ft with thick hardboard/pegboard to protect the styrene if you found a wholesaler.
you don't get the air sealing/vapor barrier properties of a sprayed in insulation. i mentioned in the video that i was going to be using foam board to cover the area i didn't spray for the roll up door ill be installing untill i get the door hung. ill also be using foam board to insulate the slab when i pour concrete. i could insulate the building cheaper with fiberglass as well. so your not really breaking anything to me??????
@@Ezrider359 Fair enough but remember to allow some air circulation to the wood frame. if any of the steel behind the wood has any unsealed screw holes then the spray foam could prevent the wood from drying out if water does leak in. It could cause early rotting of the wood. For an example of the potential problem, in the UK if you have spray foam covering any 'exterior' wood some banks may not offer a mortgage because of the risk of accelerated rot. and getting insurance can be difficult because insurance companies have had to pay for too many roofs that have has a spray foam loft conversion.
@Ezrider359 the other big advantage i found with it is the reduction in humidity inside the building. No more ceiling sweating moisture all over everything
I'm curious how well it would insulate if you had filled all those rectangles with XPS as deep as the wood framing is, and then sprayfoamed an inch over the whole enchilada 🤷 also curious of the price
11:57 I've been looking for a while to pull the trigger on this spray foam insulation because of the cost. In your video, I noticed how wide your gun was spraying the material, so I went to the green website to see prices. Found a video on the 1202 foam, and it was completely different on how it was coming out of the gun . Are the kits different,or do tips on the gun change the spray pattern??? Great job. I wish I had seen your video sooner. Lol thanks
I think you took on a mammoth job here, but like always you’re getting it done! I think you should just get it all done now instead of waiting. The product won’t be any cheaper later for one thing. Plus, you will have moved all kinds of stuff in there that you’re gonna have to deal with, getting it out of the way and stuff. Less work now. By the time the rest of the product you need to complete the job comes in your arms will have recovered! 😉
Do you know what kind of lumber your building is made of ? The darker color of the wood suggests that it's not the weakly treated Southern Yellow Pine that we get in the Mid-Atlantic region.
This is a older existing building that I purchased don't know exactly what kind of lumber it is but it's not a new building and no signs of rot anywhere
You might wabt to consider covering the walls with 1/2" plwood. 50 cebts a sq ft. R factor is .62 but can also close off air leaks and give yo a wall to hang some stuff on. The ceiling? I dunno.
The walls will be finished on the inside by the time the project is done. Don't plan on finishing the Ceiling other than maybe painting the foam white for a little more light reflection.
I do not envy the winters you get up there. I'm in Tennessee debating whether or not I really want to sit in the garage and tinker with my motorcycle while it's in the mid 40s.
Regarding surface temperature to be sprayed, I see you were applying to metal that looked to be sub 30 degrees? I did see where you had some trouble with it not adhering but overall it looked like it stuck just fine. Any trouble since? I am going to be spraying some concrete walls that will be in the 60 degree range (in a basement) and am worried that it would be below the surface temp specifications of the product.
i heated the metal to between 50-60 before spraying. was below freezing before heating it by pointing heat directly at it. the area i had a issue with was on the south facing side and when i had checked it earlier it was good but by the time i got there the sun had moved and it was then in the shade and temps outside were starting to drop was down to about 35 on the surface temperature. and i didn't re check it untill after i had the issue. that is the only area i had issue with 60* is in the recommended surface temperature range for foam it green. the north side of the roof was the hardest to get the surface temperature up mostly because i couldn't point heat directly at it and it was always in the shade. so i saved that for last and heated the building to 85*+ to get the surface temperature up. also tried to use the sun to my advantage as much as possible.
@@Ezrider359 Thanks for responding. I think my challenge will be to heat up concrete that is below ground level. Big thermal mass to overcome. Might have to wait until summer.
I had used a different brand with the the same dual tank set up. But if you stopped momentarily the tip would plug up and you would have to replace it. Kit comes with 6 extra tips. Did the brand you used have the tips plug up also?
Yeah they say 20-30 seconds I'd guess you actually get a little longer than that. As long as I didn't lolly gag I had plenty of time to move and reposition without clogging came with I think 10 tips per kit and was more than enough. But if you stopped for any longer you had to change tips. I had a lot of extra tips probably used 3-4 tips per kit and came with 10. The ceiling used a few more tips because I didn't have a man lift so once I sprayed everything I could reach had to change tips because of the time it took to reposition everything
Yup. Blankets wouldn't be a bad idea. I pre heated the tanks for 24hours at 85 degrees and then kept them in the pickup with the heat cranked till I was ready to use them. It worked out pretty good as far as keeping the tanks warm. They would be cooled off right to where they should be by the time I'd use them
I know there is a difference between closed and open cell, and the application of each. Just curious did you use open or closed? I believe closed cell is best for northern moist climates.
Maybe have that foam tested first especially if your going to drywall,youd hate to find out ten years down the road that its off gassing or something because key components for sprayfoam to be effective were completely missing when you applied it😂2 pound sprayfoam needs constant heat and would get that from the sensors and heat lines in a sprayfoam hose which the sprayfoam machine would control and maintain,2 pound sprayfoam needs to be sprayed at a certain temp and on average its probably around 110F meaning each chemical is warmed up and kept at 110F the whole time while spraying,the lines you can see in the foam is cold foam,cold foam will spray in a really thin stream so as your spraying your getting cold foam through the lines and that normally results in improper job as you might not of achieved proper adhesion to the substrate depending on the substrate temp when you applied(substrate needs to be a certain temp before applying foam)an air compressor would also help so you have a constant flow of air pressure which you can turn up and down to give yourself an effective spray pattern to maximize coverage.If your not having it inspected at all im sure youll be fine but if it is being inspected and they test the foam you may end up having to hire a foam company to come spray over it.If your not drywalling over the foam with a fire rated board than the foam would need a thermal barrier over it,again if your not having it inspected than dont worry about any of that and hope for the best lol if it is being inspected though maybe get some more info on sprayfoam than just prices😂
I've heard recently that spray foam is a liability and banks won't loan on buildings with it now. And insurance issues. But I know, it's a shop. But working in a shop you are at risk for whatever is claimed. Does anyone know the latest word on this topic? Thanks for the video
You can tell a difference in not only the heating but in the sound quality and IMO it appears brighter inside. Thanks for sharing.
I really admire it when you see a big job ahead of you and still roll up your sleeves and go for it, even though it's a lot of work for one guy alone, 23:21 there's no way to listen to this melody and not remember the old red. Great work Ezra, health and success always!
I built a new 55 x 72 x 16 building, and hired the spray foaming done. It was done in colder weather also. I had house wrap put under all of the steel. I wanted to be able to replace any of it in case of damage, and didn't want the foam to make that extremely hard to do. It worked well. I have had no issues with it not sticking, and that was 7 yrs ago. It is a typical post frame building like yours.
If I would have built the building I would have had something installed between the tin and the metal but I wasn't going to pull all the metal off a existing building. In the professional foams they do have cold weather formulas that have lower temperature requirements.
You could have put one inch foam board between your nailer then no foam would have been in contact with the steel @@Ezrider359
If you foam tin you just have to put replacement tin on top of foam tin
But if you have insurance it's better to spray directly to sheet cus then when it gets damaged they have to replace all the steel because you destroy the vapor barrier when you rip it off also when sprayed directly to sheets it adds 300% rack strength to building
@@thomasmiracle7826 it also increases the chance of moisture getting between the metal and wrap increasing chance of deterioration on metal. But a lot of people still spray directly to wrap.
I built a couple of buildings. One was my hobby shop 40 x 60 and the other was one in an enlighten industrial area. It was 60 x 80 clear span. I foamed both buildings and never regretted it money. Well spent.
@prestonking5736 After 7+ years in hotels in 8 upper Midwest holding tech seminars for ACDelco, I notice buildings crawling with workers putting insulation outside and ask questions. So, 2006, I wrapped my house in “Tyvak” and 2” of extruded polystyrene after detain mesh on edges. Scratched with wire hand brush, troweled modified cement on EIFS grade 2X4’ sheets, folded detail mesh over edges, placed cut 4’ treated fiberglass embedded in same modified cement over the field. Using a drywall hopper sprayer, troweled w/magnesium float the colored top coat. Utility bills dropped over half, no road noise and never painted. Best thing I ever did.
Just found you, love it. Inspired me to do my 25x40 ft metal garage! Thanks
Happy Holiday to you and yours. We did our 40x40 x14 20 years ago and the only downside was when we replaced the roof, it was a real pain and messy, but only for a couple days.
I got my foam sheeting free from pauls sheet metal in rice lake Wisconsin, as they did roof tear offs i hauled it away, took all summer😂my barn was very well insulated
hope you start putting more content out
I said the same thing in my mind, but I know he gets crazy busy some parts of the year. When I find out he has a new video, I click on it so fast.
Nice work. Thanks for not filling up the video with ads.
glad you apricate it. youtube automatically fills your videos with way too many ads you have to manually delete all the ad breaks when you upload.
Nice job and hats off to you for doing the work yourself Ezra 😎👍 I've always wondered if a guy could do it cheaper than the companies. 🔧
thanks zane. i was glad to find a viable diy option. i do like the opportunity to try and learn new things.
So far this is the most honest and upfront video about DIY spray foam and yes 10k is definitely worth 6 days of my time
Wow. Good work! Sure seems like some rolling scaffolding would be a wise investment.
You should ask hyperlite LED if they want to help you with your lights for the shop.
They sponsor youtubers setting up shops.
It covered a lot more than i thought it would thanks now i know i want to use this for my house. This video is helping me in my research thank you
Ezra, nice job. Everything looks real good. Just be careful when you are up in the ceiling. Hope you & the wife Have a Merry Christmas. Be Safe.
It would be interesting to do an application in a shop the same as yours on the ceiling first to see which makes a bigger difference.
The best DIY spray foam I've seen. Been searching and reading for several months. Thanks for the helpful information.
Glad it was helpful!
OH YEAH! you are gonna love how warm that shop will be. under floor radiant heat would be a great investment as well.
Oh yeah it's already a huge difference and iv only got half my total thickness sprayed my old shop is spray foamed and there's no other option as far as I'm concerned
Can you put a link to the suppliee you got it from? Im sure many folks would like to know. @@Ezrider359
Great work Ezra!
Appreciate the support!
I think this was a good investment for you. Are you planning to eventually put sheetrock over the wood, to create an air barrier? Can't wait for the projects you will tackle in a warm shop. Stay safe brother trucker.
I'll finish the inside of the walls before it's all said and done
O-H-I-O Porters🇺🇸 So you ordered it online at first & then had to get some extra from Menards. Hey, that happens sometimes. It sure made a difference in the heating process & will help you in the long run. That’s what matters. At least you tried something new & was willing to bring us along. The job was quite impressive. Having good tools helps…heaters, bobcat, ladders, plastic suit & protective gear. I wasn’t even thinking about using Vaseline to prevent it from sticking to your skin. I learned quite a bit, so thanks for sharing. I will have to do the same in my garage eventually, so I feel more prepared to do so. Good job, man! Don’t forget to share with us when you do Part 2. Have a Merry Christmas my friend! 🥰🤩✌️
Yes the stuff I got from Menards is a different brand and quite a bit more expensive but there both closed cell spray foam
Great video my friend 💪. It may have cost more than you hoped but at least you did it yourself 👍
One other issue that might come up that did with me was my insurance company insisted the foam be covered with sheetrock or some spray that was fireproof or insurance cancelled. The foam doesn't really burn that much but the fumes are deadly.
Nice video, and at the end, I like the explanation of how you protected yourself. Not many tell straight how bad it will be when you do it.
Learned a lot Ezra! Good show
There is a video that came doing about the same exact thing. They ended up using board foam cut in place. Y-T Foam Board vs Spray Foam… Insulating our steel building/garage. Spray foam pricing has gotten MUCH more expensive due to the chemical cost at the manufacturer.
I don't know what part of the country you are in but 2-2.50 is double what we charge you may want to shop around. Just with the structural value you get from closed cell its the best way to go. Plus no sweating
Perhaps a less expensive option would have been 2" foam sheets screwed to the wood, leaving a space behind for condensation to drain. Then foam the gaps between the foam panels for an air tight seal. Cold metal with condensate will release the foam from the metal.
cheaper yes but but probably not by as much as your thinking about 30 cents less per board foot and you don't get the air sealing and vapor barrier property's of a sprayed in place foam.
@@Ezrider359 Yes and no.
The wood frames support the foam board off of the metal and the spray foam seals and interlocks the foam panels creating a vapor barrier.
The vapor barrier is elevated off the metal so that any condensation that happens on the inside does not stay trapped between the foam and the metal causing mold growth but runs down the inside face of the metal to the drain trough.
Less expensive but much more time consuming. I went that route 12 years ago. 1.5" panels on the walls, and 1" on the ceilings. All the wall seams were filled with the canned foam, and that was awful. Should have went froth pak way back then and just sprayed a strip on all the seams. Mine was very cost effective cause i have a place just down the road that sells reject foam panels at about 30% cost of new. If your paying full price for panels its not worth it.
All those wood stringers turn into mouse freeways.
Batt insulation works that way too.
Spray Foam is the way to do it!
My shop is batt insulation covered with roofing tin.
One thing to keep in mind, while your contractor is doing the spray foam, you can be in your truck making money.
A commercial spray foam outfit could spray that in two days at most.
you may want to spray your second layer sooner than later. Just for the fact that you haven't filled the shed up yet. By next fall if you are anything like me, there will be a lot more stuff to move out of the way. Just saying.
That being said, I Liked the video very much.
Might even consider it done at this point. I have a 40x60 and we used the foam boards. 1.5" on walls and only 1" on the ceiling. They were factory reject panels at 30% cost. walls were seam sealed with can foam, and ceiling seams were only taped sealed and some has pulled away. Still the building was heatable in about 2 hours with a wood furnace. I think my biggest issue was good seals and heat leakage which he won't have a problem with. I really don't think the extra 1" of foam will make that much of a difference. in my experience sealing is key and 1" of foam insulation does work very well.
Quick question, there is an issue here in the UK of companies insulating people's loft spaces with spray foam but then mortgage companies refusing to lend against these properties over fears of damp.
Once you apply your second coat, could the back of the frame timbers get condensation between the uninsulated metal?
Glad to see you back btw, been missing Old Red.
Good job and great info here. Thanks.
Hello Ezra. The job looks just fine. The next time you will have some experience doing this kind of job. Having a high of 28 degrees doesn't sound like a fun time at all. Spending your time doing this is worth it in my opinion. I do what I can do to save money. Have good days!
When spraying foam on steel buildings, you use more than if you have wood under steel , steel is good for getting rid of air exchanges , won’t let mold grow between insulation and metal,
A lot of good information for those thinking about using this material.👍🏻
Hey Ezra good to see you,I don't know how I missed this show,your shop is looking great and knows there's plenty to do,hope the ole red peterbilt is doing great,I'll catch ya on the next one.
Appreciate it! Thanks for watching.
@Ezrider359 your very welcome my friend
No rest for the talented guy who tackles the big work…
That’s interesting insulation. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome video, Sir! Thank you for sharing for us likeminded blue collar diy guess out here!
A professional foamer would be able to spray that out in one day. 2-3 inches in one pass easy with the right equipment, and remember that they use 55gal drums of A & B so they don't stop as often as you had to. Also they have heaters in the drums, pumps, and hoses, so absolute control of temperature to get maximum efficiency. You did save money doing it yourself though, just spent a lot of time on it, and as you said, your time is worth something.
If you going to have a floor poured, i would suggest putting in pex loops for heat. I built my 40x60 12+ years ago, and we did all the foam work(boards) and put in pex loops then had a crew do the pour. I didn't use the floor heat for 10 years. Just last year bought a used wood boiler and am heating my floor with it. Even with a crappier insulation job and only 1" foam boards and only wall seams foam sealed, my building stays nice and warm and doesn't use that much wood. I wish i would have went wood boiler years ago. And the 1/2 pex for the loops in the floor is fairly cheap when doing it yourself.
I plan to add the PEX loops in the floor I don't know that I'm going to install a boiler any time soon. I plan to primarily heat with a waste oil furnace
Its an expensive job with little to show for your money but sometimes you just have to bite the bullet. Nothing worse than trying to work in a freezing cold workshop. You will be glad you handed the cash over when its the middle of winter and you are nice and toasty working in there.
Gotta calculate the hypotenuse to get that roof depth 😁
good job i recommend sheathing the rafters with foam board for max heat retention
Leaving the rafters open I have my reasons but some fans to circulate trapped warm air back down wouldn't be a bad idea.
Spray foam tip; bend stiff wire with bend to the depth you want it once expansion is done. Bend a ring on one end for gloved have to pull out of pencil pocket.
Question; Is this closed cell and insulation “R” value per inch? Thanks kindly.
Spray foam is around r40 when 1 inch thick. Spray foam has an e value per square inch while traditional pink insulation is rated per square foot.
Remember, propane burning releases a lot of water, which condenses on cold metal. Some foams need moisture to cure, not sure about this stuff.
The heaters I was using burn Diesel fuel
👍 still releases a lot of water. I applaud your get-to-it work ethic, Ezra.
Great job , I'm sorry but I keep snickering because you look like Jim Carry in Lemony Snickets . Lol
have to keep this in my mind if i ever get a shop built
I finally got mine done. It took about 4 years to save for it and do one step at a time. It’s a 30x35x13’ and I’m just tickled with it. If a nice shop of your own is something you value then go for it, hell finance it if you have to. I’ve already saved $3000 rebuilding the front end on my f350 when it needed it vs paying to have it all done.
Fair warning though spray foam even doing it yourself is incredibly costly. I used one single $400 kit to see how far it went and it’s not very far at all. 😂
I went back to just using foam board since it never gets stupid cold in TN
I gotta say, if I could run one heater and keep it at 70 inside when it’s 35 outside, I think I might call 1” good!
When you're in your 20's a shop that size is not so bad to work on. When you get up in years your back hurts, knees hurt and everything else. So then you'd end out ponying up the money to hire someone to spray foam it. It's nice to save money where you can but boy the pharmacys sure stay busy dealing with the pain.
i wish i was still in my 20's pushin 40 now
Manuka Pharm Rub Ease Gel. Look it up. It has CBD in it, but it's like magic for the aches and pains of manual labour. 5 mins and wrist and finger pain is non-existent. I use the 500mg tube, but there is a 1000mg option for real pain!
This is why I don't spray steel in the winter, it will crack loose and you don't get the yield out of the material
I only had the one spot crack loose definitely had to keep a eye on surface temperature to make sure it was warm enough tho
Looks like quite the job. I was wondering the other day about using that stuff. I might want to do some areas in my basement at home. I am always looking at stuff for sale on FB marketplace. I saw someone was selling a waste oil heater a few weeks back that would be perfect for that shop. It might be a good option for your shop.
my plan is to primarily heat with a waste oil furnace.
Just bought myself a kit thanks for being the guinea pig
One thing you didn't mention was the additional board feet to cover the wood on the second coat
Hi Ezra, Great Video mate. Best from Germany
All ways a pleasure see you in your endeavors 👍🏻
I really hate to break it to you but the full sized pre made insulation sheets are below 1 dollar per board foot for an R value of 5, Even from home depot they are 65c per board foot. (20 bucks for 32 board foot 8x4 by1inch). Admittedly you would also need glue and tape but you could fit it closer to your building 3/4 over the metal to get level with your stringers then another inch or two over that. You could probably afford to cover the bottom 8ft with thick hardboard/pegboard to protect the styrene if you found a wholesaler.
you don't get the air sealing/vapor barrier properties of a sprayed in insulation. i mentioned in the video that i was going to be using foam board to cover the area i didn't spray for the roll up door ill be installing untill i get the door hung. ill also be using foam board to insulate the slab when i pour concrete. i could insulate the building cheaper with fiberglass as well. so your not really breaking anything to me??????
@@Ezrider359
Fair enough but remember to allow some air circulation to the wood frame. if any of the steel behind the wood has any unsealed screw holes then the spray foam could prevent the wood from drying out if water does leak in. It could cause early rotting of the wood. For an example of the potential problem, in the UK if you have spray foam covering any 'exterior' wood some banks may not offer a mortgage because of the risk of accelerated rot. and getting insurance can be difficult because insurance companies have had to pay for too many roofs that have has a spray foam loft conversion.
My question is why is the spray foam procees so expensive? Greed, proprietary chemicals?
perfect timing thanks for the video !
Man that's a lot of money, but I am sure it will be worth it in the end. I'm glad Australia doesn't get that cold weather you guys get.
I had someone come in and do the ceiling in my 40x60 a few years ago in upstate ny. Cost around $12k but well worth it.
I think that's a really good price
@Ezrider359 the other big advantage i found with it is the reduction in humidity inside the building. No more ceiling sweating moisture all over everything
Forgot how much I love this dude I don’t really know
I'm curious how well it would insulate if you had filled all those rectangles with XPS as deep as the wood framing is, and then sprayfoamed an inch over the whole enchilada 🤷 also curious of the price
2 bucks a board foot!! Thats crazy! During covid ibwas charging about 1.60 a foot. Now that things have settles down prices are about 1.25
Prices seem to vary a lot by region
11:57 I've been looking for a while to pull the trigger on this spray foam insulation because of the cost. In your video, I noticed how wide your gun was spraying the material, so I went to the green website to see prices. Found a video on the 1202 foam, and it was completely different on how it was coming out of the gun . Are the kits different,or do tips on the gun change the spray pattern??? Great job. I wish I had seen your video sooner. Lol thanks
You should think about putting a ceiling in to save heat expenses!
I have my reasons why I'll be leaving the ceiling open but some fans to circulate warm air back down wouldn't be a bad idea
@ May I ask you for the reason?Thanks
I think you took on a mammoth job here, but like always you’re getting it done! I think you should just get it all done now instead of waiting. The product won’t be any cheaper later for one thing. Plus, you will have moved all kinds of stuff in there that you’re gonna have to deal with, getting it out of the way and stuff. Less work now. By the time the rest of the product you need to complete the job comes in your arms will have recovered! 😉
Looks great Ezra🎉
I’m sure the manufacturer has a time limit for applying a second coat.
Can be done anytime time but it's going to be done a lot sooner than I had said in the video for other reasons.
Do you know what kind of lumber your building is made of ?
The darker color of the wood suggests that it's not the weakly treated Southern Yellow Pine that we get in the Mid-Atlantic region.
This is a older existing building that I purchased don't know exactly what kind of lumber it is but it's not a new building and no signs of rot anywhere
How much did it cost you for each kit?
You might wabt to consider covering the walls with 1/2" plwood. 50 cebts a sq ft. R factor is .62 but can also close off air leaks and give yo a wall to hang some stuff on. The ceiling? I dunno.
The walls will be finished on the inside by the time the project is done. Don't plan on finishing the Ceiling other than maybe painting the foam white for a little more light reflection.
Should have counted squares. Looks great!
602 vs. 620 sounds like a TYPO
It needs to be sprayed at least 2" thick.
yes and it will be. i just sprayed 1 thinner coat to start with it will be sprayed again to 2"
Try using painters spray socks on your head. They should have em at Menards. Shouldn't be too expensive.
I do not envy the winters you get up there. I'm in Tennessee debating whether or not I really want to sit in the garage and tinker with my motorcycle while it's in the mid 40s.
It can be brutal up here.
I would have covered the wood too it transmits or transfers cold air as well
the wood will be covered when i apply the second coat.
@ that’s a big job but i like what you’re doing to save money
Regarding surface temperature to be sprayed, I see you were applying to metal that looked to be sub 30 degrees? I did see where you had some trouble with it not adhering but overall it looked like it stuck just fine. Any trouble since? I am going to be spraying some concrete walls that will be in the 60 degree range (in a basement) and am worried that it would be below the surface temp specifications of the product.
i heated the metal to between 50-60 before spraying. was below freezing before heating it by pointing heat directly at it. the area i had a issue with was on the south facing side and when i had checked it earlier it was good but by the time i got there the sun had moved and it was then in the shade and temps outside were starting to drop was down to about 35 on the surface temperature. and i didn't re check it untill after i had the issue. that is the only area i had issue with 60* is in the recommended surface temperature range for foam it green. the north side of the roof was the hardest to get the surface temperature up mostly because i couldn't point heat directly at it and it was always in the shade. so i saved that for last and heated the building to 85*+ to get the surface temperature up. also tried to use the sun to my advantage as much as possible.
@@Ezrider359 Thanks for responding. I think my challenge will be to heat up concrete that is below ground level. Big thermal mass to overcome. Might have to wait until summer.
Thank you. Great video
I had used a different brand with the the same dual tank set up. But if you stopped momentarily the tip would plug up and you would have to replace it. Kit comes with 6 extra tips. Did the brand you used have the tips plug up also?
Yeah they say 20-30 seconds I'd guess you actually get a little longer than that. As long as I didn't lolly gag I had plenty of time to move and reposition without clogging came with I think 10 tips per kit and was more than enough. But if you stopped for any longer you had to change tips. I had a lot of extra tips probably used 3-4 tips per kit and came with 10. The ceiling used a few more tips because I didn't have a man lift so once I sprayed everything I could reach had to change tips because of the time it took to reposition everything
Spraying right on the steel willl rot it out. You should have put a barrier on the 2x6's and left the air space behind the steel.
It's closed cell foam. It's it's own vapor barrier
That's a big job Ezra ya done well . but it will be worth it in the long run "aye" stay safe "RB" downunder
60% of heat loss is though the roof
Ezra, how about the bottles under an electric blanket, so they stay warm as you use one. Salamander?? Do you have 2 or 3 lol to warm the new building?
I commented before I saw your heaters 😂
Yup. Blankets wouldn't be a bad idea. I pre heated the tanks for 24hours at 85 degrees and then kept them in the pickup with the heat cranked till I was ready to use them. It worked out pretty good as far as keeping the tanks warm. They would be cooled off right to where they should be by the time I'd use them
I would cover the lower part of the wall after I was done to protect, with plywood or metal. First 8ft high anyway.
You could go ahead order another 600 kit finish first coat, use the rest to start the second coat.
Inside of the walls will be finished before the shop is done but that's going to be a ways down the road
Vertical 2x’s between your post then cover with OSB.
Fill with blow in insulation.
It will settle over time about 4”
Absolutely more content required.
That foam that popped off, get some glue and stick it on in warm weather...
Fare dews your having a go. Slow and steady and you'll get it done. We'll done
Great video buddy !
Thank you for sharing!
Maybe it doesn’t sound like much, but think of the money you saved 😊😊
I know there is a difference between closed and open cell, and the application of each. Just curious did you use open or closed? I believe closed cell is best for northern moist climates.
this is closed cell
There you are, was just thinking it’s about time Ezra posts something
Great video, thanks for posting. Are you going to do anything to circulate the heat trapped in the ceiling area?
A ceiling fan when it's all done wouldn't be a awful idea
Maybe have that foam tested first especially if your going to drywall,youd hate to find out ten years down the road that its off gassing or something because key components for sprayfoam to be effective were completely missing when you applied it😂2 pound sprayfoam needs constant heat and would get that from the sensors and heat lines in a sprayfoam hose which the sprayfoam machine would control and maintain,2 pound sprayfoam needs to be sprayed at a certain temp and on average its probably around 110F meaning each chemical is warmed up and kept at 110F the whole time while spraying,the lines you can see in the foam is cold foam,cold foam will spray in a really thin stream so as your spraying your getting cold foam through the lines and that normally results in improper job as you might not of achieved proper adhesion to the substrate depending on the substrate temp when you applied(substrate needs to be a certain temp before applying foam)an air compressor would also help so you have a constant flow of air pressure which you can turn up and down to give yourself an effective spray pattern to maximize coverage.If your not having it inspected at all im sure youll be fine but if it is being inspected and they test the foam you may end up having to hire a foam company to come spray over it.If your not drywalling over the foam with a fire rated board than the foam would need a thermal barrier over it,again if your not having it inspected than dont worry about any of that and hope for the best lol if it is being inspected though maybe get some more info on sprayfoam than just prices😂
Where do you live that they are charging $2.00-$2.50 per board foot?
@@ACGSprayfoam north Dakota
I've heard recently that spray foam is a liability and banks won't loan on buildings with it now. And insurance issues. But I know, it's a shop. But working in a shop you are at risk for whatever is claimed. Does anyone know the latest word on this topic? Thanks for the video
nice work brother.
Appreciate it!
You did good man 👍