How To: Boiler Losing Pressure
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- Опубликовано: 9 мар 2024
- In this video I attend a Gas boiler losing water pressure. I show you how I check and repair the most common issue related to pressure problems. The expansion vessel on the boiler has a simple job of absorbing the excess expansion of water in your heating system when it is on and running. If the vessel doesn't do this the pressure relief valve will begin to leak. This will cause overnight pressure loss within the heating system. Basically every hot and cold cycle will cause the pressure in the boiler to drop. This will lead to topping up the pressure every day. If the pressure gets low enough most boilers will fail leading to no heating and hot water.
See the links below for some of the tools I use in this video. Only quality make the list.
This channel is to help engineers fix boilers. I try and teach boiler repair for the betterment of the UK gas industry. The better we are the more work we get.
Common UK boiler brands such as Vaillant, Ideal, Worcester and Baxi all have more obscure models and this is one of them.
Unlike the USA, our boilers are all high efficiency and more technology makes for harder diagnosis.
For videos on Burnham, Weil-Mclain, Peerless and Lochinvar find a US Channel.
I typed all that for better keyword and YT ratings. Lets see!!
Here are a few affiliate links to some of the stuff I use everyday. This is quality stuff and I have found the best prices possible
Puncture Repair Kit
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Bahco Spanner
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Budget Friendly Martindale multimeter
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Fluke Multimeter
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Knipex Grips
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8mm ratchet spanner
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10mm spanner
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Kline Backpack
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Tip 5 - add a little grease to the Schrader valve before pumping it up. It reduces the failure rate
Snap. I thought this today as I edited it. I didn't have grease with me on this but I do do it. ;-)
Yes, little bit of silicone grease.
Add some KY Gel & it’ll slip in lovely!
Nice bit of lube
Great content mate,
You're really good at explaining your repairs clearly 👍
Thanks 👍I have to learn it that way too. :-)
Tidy little video mate! Thanks😊
You bet, Thanks for watching it. :-)
@@HeatingGeek 👍
Miss your videos please do more thank you 🙏🏼
I have done 1 a week lately. ;-) Hit the bell and you would know. :-)
As usual great advice.
Glad you think so! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. :-)_
Thanks for this, calling an engineer now to come sort my expansion vessel!
Do it in time and save some money. :-)
As above, really enjoy your videos as they’re one of the best explained
Thats because I have to understand it myself. I try and make it simple in my own head so I can remember it. :-)
Very good explanation Ollie. That is the sort of explanation customers and newbies need ❤
The video was a bit of a mess but i didn't have time to get it aimed at one type of person. :-) Hopefully it helps people
Another excellent video Ollie, tackled logically so homeowners can understand.👍😀
This video was a bit of a mess because I didn't have time to get it edited correctly. Hopefully I can get ahead with the videos again and get some breathing room. :-)
@@HeatingGeek It got the message across absolutely fine.👍
Thanks :-)
8:38 have the same issue with the misses
;-)
😂😂😂
great job new subscriber looks like a great channel
Thanks for the sub! I'm trying to get content out every week but have 100 ish older videos. I have created playlists for manufactures too.
Brilliant vid again
Thanks man. I appreciate the comment and you watching :-)
I buy metal dust caps with shrader removal tool on it from ebay aswell as packs of shrader valves. And when I recharge them I just swap them with a metal dust cap.. great video as always oli..
Yes most of the time the schradar core will pass, give it a flick with your finger and will reseal, I have replaced an unknown amount of schradars over the years 😊
Great idea. The metal caps have the red seals in them too. They are nice and soft and don't fail much. Good idea.
Glad you posted this video, perhaps half of the lazy bastard service engineers will now start pumping up vessels during the service visit but probably not 😂😂😂
If they're working for a firm forget it. They just don't have time.
@@daz3745 don’t have time?, all it takes is carrying a bucket and pump with you while you do a service visit, if you spend ten minutes doing your FGA s only to find that the pressure has risen up to 3bar then checking the vessel before you start makes sense to me
@@daz3745 I know what you mean, I work for BG on contract and they want you to complete a “boiler service”, in ten minutes!….
@@daz3745 yet they will try to destroy your whole life if you miss one tiny little ntcs
@CarlAtkinson-zu1zh so true.
Slowly working my way through your videos. You explain things brilliantly. Im 2 and a bit years into servicing and repairs and your videos are really helpfull.
How do I find the blocked hose vid ?
Cheers mate
Heatline Capris
ruclips.net/video/FhgTV89VzuE/видео.html
;-)
Thanks mate I found it. I had a greenstar yesterday with the exact same issue. I 100 percent would not have took the pressure out the vessel before trying to unblock the hose had I not watched your vid. You may have saved me a nice mess. I booked an 'LD' to get the boiler off the wall and replace the hose but didn't need to. Got lucky that although the prv had been set off, wasn't letting by which is odd as the hose was clearly sludged.
Thanks again for the vids and I will be becoming a patron
@@lewisconway6431 I'm glad you like the videos. I have learned a lot for my own mistakes. I remember the first boiler I tried to clean the hose on. A glowworm Ci.... Fu%k it went everywhere. With a massive bang as well. I had it all over my face...:-)
I normally use an inert gas for the expansion vessels. I was told air would make the membrane rot.
On commercial systems I use nitrogen but in a domestic house how do you do that?
@@HeatingGeek I have a small canister with a pressure gauge, the size of a hair spray that clamps on to the valve. Then I charge the expansion vessel to 0.6 bar with the gas and and the rest up to 1.5 bar by filling with water.
Link to the caprice video please
It's in the video Bro. But it's also her for you too. Heatline Capris
ruclips.net/video/FhgTV89VzuE/видео.html
Cheers mate@@HeatingGeek
No problem.
Hi mate, we're can I get a pump like that please ?
The one he uses is made by makita
Right here. amzn.to/3VaK1Cm
the amount of boilers i go to where the vessel is flat is amazing i dont understand how people dont pump them up on a service or brakedown!
If someone is only being paid 40 a service do you think they will pump a vessel. BG only paying 24-27. I run the boiler at max rate while I analyse and gas rate it. If the pressure spikes up then I do the vessel.
However if I drain a boiler for any reason I always do the vessel. Do you do it every service??
I hear what your saying I always drain the boiler and pump it every service as I drain it through the filter (if ones fitted) but most of my services are returning customers or boilers I've fitted.
@@marksavill367 Its nice when you look after a boiler for several years. You get to know it.
I had one going up without the heating, been on due to the cracked secondary heat exchanger as soon as he isolates the water to the boiler stay stable
That's true. Very rare though. I have had it on unvented cylinders before too.
I was recently servicing a family members boiler where their filling loop was connected and both values although closed were still letting by a small trickle which was causing over pressurisation.. when i disconnected it it was dripping. So not only the cold feed side was leaking the filling side was also leaking..
I get that on ecotecs a lot. What boiler was it?
@@HeatingGeek spot on mate it was an ecotec
@@asif530 I usually just replace one of the valves tbh. A very costly repair if both are done.
Number 6 check level of inhibitor and add the same brand if need it ,you end up with blocked pipe of the expansion vessel,heat plate exchanger ,the main heat exchanger ,radiators not working properly ...
This boiler has never had inhibitor since it was fitted :-) Never. So what should you do in this situation?
🙈I thought It's was a hole in the plate heat exchanger.."I'll get my coat" 😂.... Another great video knowledge is power👍
Thanks for watching! I do appreciate a comment too. It's a rare boiler to have a by thermal heat exchanger tbh. I think this was the last. :-)
1.2bar is quite high I usually blow the vessel upto 1 bar that way you can precharge the vessel with water so that it will last longer between system water repressurising.
Yes and no. You should fill a vessel to cold fill pressure according to design guides. Usually on domestic I fill between 0.75 and 1.2bar. I usually fill to a lower pressure if the boiler is going to operate at reduced pressure all the time. Like on poor incoming mains water pressure. But if the mains is good and the person overfills a lot i will make the initial charge higher.
If you get what I mean.
Sort of. By draining the boiler and then refilling it you have introduced new air to the system which is in the new water. If you heat that water, it's agitated by the pump, the air will come out and maybe exit the system via the pump aav. So if you pump the vessel to 1.2 then add water upto 1.2/1. 3 bar you have very little water precharge in the vessel to replace the pressure lost by the air leaving the system. So the system water will need to be added to in the very near future.
... So that is why I don't pressurise the vessel with air over 1 bar.
@@duncanicook That makes perfect sense. I never thought about it that way. 👍
Tip #0...
Do not attempt this if it means breaking the room seal of your appliance. That is why it needs a GSE and not a diy repair.
Also... Did 4 EVs last week, in one house... 1 on each of the 2 boilers and also 2 on the UV cylinders... They were all full of water and needed regenerating air side.
Thank God I also have the same makita pump... And the same cable tie around the trigger to keep it on... Why they didn't incorporate this is a mystery lol!
Have to have the cable tie. Otherwise it's useless.
I have always wondered why plumbers pay a fortune for LDF when a bottle of water with some washing up liquid does the same? Or is it because LDF sounds cooler than soapy water?
It's because we have too. Apparently washing up liquid is corrosive and were not allowed to use it...... Almost like a conspiracy.... I'll put my tinfoil hat away now. :-)
See my post above luv. Shampoo is OK, the Wife’s expensive one is the best!,
Why do the a Ladies spend a fortune on Hair & Body products??
A bloke goes into Lidl picks up the first thing;
Hair, Body & Car Shampoo combined. That’ll do me, lovely!!!
My Wife, Olive, Olive Puller buys all sorts & pays a fortune for it. She says; ‘Oh, this expensive Face Cream makes me look lovely’. I keep telling her, you can’t polish a turd!!!
You should mention to never touch the isolation valves on these.. mistake you'll only make once
I use them on this boiler. Not the older ones. What issues have you had with them?
It will only happen on vokera
@@ununha what will?
Another good one Ollie, perhaps you should explain for the hard of thinking; The Expansion vessel size can be too small on a Combi Boiler for your system. Many are only 8Ltr.
Top Dick Puller tip;
Make your own Leak Detection Fluid & save(I’m a tight sweaty sock) a fortune!!
1Ltr Water
10ML Shampoo
38ML Glycerine(Baking Section down Asda)
This’ll last you for ages, if you want more bubbles - just add more of the Wife’s shampoo.
Catch ye👍👍👍
Im sure some are 6L now. But I should have mentioned it. This video wasn't meant to come out tbh. I didn't get a chance to get one together so I used a video I had in the bank so to speak. I'm at home most of today, so after I do some quotes and 1 job I will edit some more stuff together. :-)