This looks very similar to a Chrysler 8.75" Hotchkiss type... The lube oil does travel twds the outer bearings by wrapping around the axles and traveling outboard... The sludge on the inside of the housing is a wax paste that has become klinged-on to it and the axles... The spindle carriers are the closed knuckle types and the main oil seals will be located on one of the case halves (probably the outboard) of the spindle carrier assembly... Also check for 'garlock' type seals on the case half pivot points... The exploded parts diagram is a good way to see what orientation the parts are installed, and their identification. And it is a good idea to read and understand the text of procedures of how to properly inspect, adjust & replace these parts... The manual that you used, is probably one of the most important tools of how to properly service & repair these expensive and now-Rare parts & equipment.... P.S.-The self locking fibre ring type of nuts , used to secure the 3rd member to the axle housing are probably authentic for this old vehicle, As those were OEM spec'd. prior to the more recent use of 'Nylon' to retain the nuts , even during severe vibration.... The method to test , if those nuts are still good is to Turn them onto a clean bolt (3/8-24 in this case). by using the fingers only.... If they can be turned by bare fingers, they need to be replaced, and if they can not be turned by bare fingers, they CAN be re-used... Always use the OEM parts whenever possible... This includes the hardware.... These rare classic vehicles are much more valuable , when equipped with their OEM Parts and hardware....
Your outer seals were leaking, that's why the gunk was inside. Grease mixed with the differential oil.one of my previous comments I mean DOT5 in the braking system not the axles.😂 was tired when I posted it. DOT 3 draws moisture into the braking system causing corrosion and more maintenance. Truck is looking great. I have room for it when you're finished. 😂😂😂😂😅
@@WatsonsWagons I'm assuming your outer seals lost the spring that was what was on the shaft. Or maybe an older seal left a spring in there somehow. I've never been into a M37 yet but rebuilt an entire drivetrain on my buddies WC12 Dodge. Pretty much same setup. Except for the 80+ years of crud lol. I completely rebuilt center chunks, 4 axle ends, Transmission, transfer case, and driveshafts. A very nice accomplishment first time I had to get into one. Best of luck. Keep videos coming. Great work. Not too far from you in VA
What manual is that and where did you find it, I’ll be doing mine this summer to clean it up and inspect it for wear and any hidden problems so thanks for this video it gives me a heads up on what to expect
Авто/Мото
Good job
This looks very similar to a Chrysler 8.75" Hotchkiss type... The lube oil does travel twds the outer bearings by wrapping around the axles and traveling outboard... The sludge on the inside of the housing is a wax paste that has become klinged-on to it and the axles... The spindle carriers are the closed knuckle types and the main oil seals will be located on one of the case halves (probably the outboard) of the spindle carrier assembly... Also check for 'garlock' type seals on the case half pivot points... The exploded parts diagram is a good way to see what orientation the parts are installed, and their identification.
And it is a good idea to read and understand the text of procedures of how to properly inspect, adjust & replace these parts... The manual that you used, is probably one of the most important tools of how to properly service & repair these expensive and now-Rare parts & equipment....
P.S.-The self locking fibre ring type of nuts , used to secure the 3rd member to the axle housing are probably authentic for this old vehicle, As those were OEM spec'd. prior to the more recent use of 'Nylon' to retain the nuts , even during severe vibration.... The method to test , if those nuts are still good is to Turn them onto a clean bolt (3/8-24 in this case). by using the fingers only.... If they can be turned by bare fingers, they need to be replaced, and if they can not be turned by bare fingers, they CAN be re-used... Always use the OEM parts whenever possible... This includes the hardware.... These rare classic vehicles are much more valuable , when equipped with their OEM Parts and hardware....
Thanks for the info
Good video brother,clean it up,stick it back together,new fluid and your good to go:-)
That's the plan!
Use DOT5 brake fluid when you put it back together. It will help you in the long run. Less maintenance and no rust.
Your outer seals were leaking, that's why the gunk was inside. Grease mixed with the differential oil.one of my previous comments I mean DOT5 in the braking system not the axles.😂 was tired when I posted it. DOT 3 draws moisture into the braking system causing corrosion and more maintenance. Truck is looking great. I have room for it when you're finished. 😂😂😂😂😅
Both axles had a floating ring on the shaft
@@WatsonsWagons I'm assuming your outer seals lost the spring that was what was on the shaft. Or maybe an older seal left a spring in there somehow. I've never been into a M37 yet but rebuilt an entire drivetrain on my buddies WC12 Dodge. Pretty much same setup. Except for the 80+ years of crud lol. I completely rebuilt center chunks, 4 axle ends, Transmission, transfer case, and driveshafts. A very nice accomplishment first time I had to get into one. Best of luck. Keep videos coming. Great work. Not too far from you in VA
Greetings: Yep, definitely laughing. "Lesson learned"? Time will tell. No worries. U were bored and figured others R also. Bsafe.
What manual is that and where did you find it, I’ll be doing mine this summer to clean it up and inspect it for wear and any hidden problems so thanks for this video it gives me a heads up on what to expect
Google search TM 9-8030 and ORD 9 SNL G-741
I always recommend Portrayal press, for all my educational needs.
Those nuts are not original. Should be a thick nut very square on both ends.