Check out my website for other awesome content! jasonoid.com/ IMPORTANT NOTE: The wire from the CL1 - terminal can be removed after boosting the battery. I have done this to many batteries and I have NEVER needed the wire a second time. Just be careful to not over discharge the battery again in the future and you wont need to boost it again. I would recommend you remove the soldered wire after boosting the battery to avoid possible short circuits. You could also try to use an alligator clip instead of soldering.
Thanks Jasonoid. I revived a newer version of the Ryobi 40v 2.6A rev Q battery today. On these newer batteries the negative is marked GND instead of CL1. I simply used two sets of wired alligator clips and used a good battery to boost the bad one: 1 Clip one end of the negative wire to GND (I taped the aluminum block next to it to prevent short), the other end to the negative contact of the good battery. 2. Clip one end of the positive wire to the positive contact of the good battery, the other end to the positive contact of the bad battery. I did it in this sequence because the positive contact on the good battery with the case on is harder to reach. I didn't want to create too much spark while trying to put the last clip on. At this point there is a small spark as expected. After about 3-5 seconds I noticed a tiny bit of smoke (probably because the clips and wire are overloaded), so I disconnected one of the clips right away. Then I measured the voltage on the bad battery and it had risen to just above 30v from 8v in that 3-5 seconds, so I decided to put the battery into the charger, and what a joy when I saw that the blinking light was green only instead of green and red before.
Can you make video out of new battery? I was able to reset battery with shorting res contact, but still getting 1 and 4 sold light on mattery when i try to charge and about 10sec later charger starting to red and green blinking. After reset again i see one sold light.
Seen this method a year or so ago online somewhere (may have been this one idk). Honestly its the easiest from all ive found. this has worked for 3 batteries so far. Only down side if you have to have a good one already. If it was you comment i seen then thanks!! lol
This worked for me!! Thank you for posting this comment. I realized after trying the charging contacts directly that you meant putting the negative to the spot on the circuit board where the guy who made this video soldered his!! Worked within a min or two, it's now charging on its charger again!! Appreciate you!
I would add one thing to this video - this method of charging is bypassing the fets which are controlled by the bms - and i believe that before you start bypassing the bms, you need to make sure that all the cells have a similar voltage (you don't want one of them too high in particular to this hack) - charging a pack that has one cell high could lead to over voltage and bad bad stuff like thermal runaway etc etc etc - know what you're doing - do your research - don't burn your house down - otherwise this is a good method used quite often by those who know what they're doing
Thanks SO MUCH! I called the number after I wrote down my three numbers! A WONDERFUL woman helped me find the right number for my lawn mower, she checked them and WITHIN 7 Days I had a small heavy box on my front porch! Really fast, luckily I got the lawn mowed between all the great rain we’ve had here in SW FLORIDA. I love the ryobi mower with the lights. I use it year round here, so it shouldn’t go into sleep mode! THANKS SO MUCH FOR THIS INFO , AND SAVING ME $ 108.00. For not having to buy a new one at Home Depot! You are WONDERFUL!
For the newer style batteries!! Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damages from the information I’m giving. With that being said, I do have a newer style battery with a newer board that had given me this same problem. After some research I discovered that CL1- is the pack ground on the newer style board labeled GRND. I soldered the wire to this terminal & started charging just like this video & viola, it worked! It did take about 3 hrs for the voltage of the battery to reach 32V & like someone else posted, after boosting the converter to 35V, the converter stop displaying the voltage while charging (red led lights turning on & off), even the blue light on the power adapter would turn on & off. It seemed like this was ok. I would recommend monitoring the charge (don’t step away & leave unattended) & have a fire extinguisher close just in case. Good luck guys!
TRIED IT , IT WORKED GREAT , THE ONLY THING I CHANGED WAS , SINCE THE HOLE I DRILLED WAS ALMOST THE SAME DIAMETER AS THE WIRE , ON THE INSIDE OF THE CASE I WRAPED SOME TAPE AROUND THE WIRE TO PREVENT PULLING ON THE SOLDER CONECTION. THANKS!
I hooked 4 9v batteries in series and connected to the cl6 terminal(neg) and the pos. terminal on the outside on my 2018 & 2019 batteries. Got it up to 17v and the charger recognized both. Charged to full capacity.
Thanks, this worked like a charm. I used a 48v 10 amp power supply adjusted to 40v. The 3-year-old battery jumped from 23v to 35v with a 10-second charge.
Yikes, I'd think twice about adding that much voltage and AMPs that fast, it's a good way to permanently kill a cell, and if your unlucky, explode a cell and start a thermal run-away fire that's impossible to put out (you just have to let it burn all that nasty lithium, like those videos of vape people whose pockets suddenly burst into flames and explode) There are a number of 18650 cells in these battery packs (vape smokers have one cell, if you see those exploding videos) and they are managed by that BMS electronics board that you are bypassing. It is generally safe to charge an 18650 at 1C (or 1 amp). Now your 10 amps is being divided by some of the cells, but these packs have cells in series and parallel, so unless you actually know the configuration, its hard to say how it's being divided. But on top of that, at least one cell is lower than the rest, (causing the problem in the first place) and it might be damaged, meaning it might take less to start it on fire. TLDR, use low amps and go slow to save yourself a burnt down house
Thanks SO much for this video. I brought my battery back from the dead and it's charging again. I appreciate you putting the time in to make this video. I bought the tool kit, and Boost Up converter you recommended from Amazon, and they actually arrived the next day. I didn't end up soldering the negative wire to the board, I was able to use some electrical tape and a rubber band to make the connection during charging. My plan is never to fully deplete the battery again - I'll stop and swap when it gets down to two dots. I was able to crank the booster up to about 37 volts using a tiny screwdriver from the kit. When it's actually charging the LED display blanks and two lights blink on the booster board. It took about 3 hours, and I was able to bring the voltage of the battery from about 25 volts to about 33.5 volts. I figured that would be enough - unplugged the charger, disconnected the leads and screwed the battery back together. I put it in the charger and it started charging. Thanks again!
Richard Friend It’s the same as it was before I ran it complexly flat on the blower. (Damn Oak tree). Just had to get the voltage up a bit so the charger recognized it again.
Thanks, this save 2 batteries for me. BTW, I charged mine with another 40V battery (connected plus-to-plus and minus to the wire shown in your video) and it only took a few minutes to get it charged enough so the Ryobi charger would work. Thanks again.
Good details instruction. Mine is about 4-5yrs old. Occasionally after use I get the defective flash when I insert in the charger. I stick it in the freezer for 15-20 mins and it recharges ok.
Thanks for the Video, I bought 5 of these packs for $6 bucks each, got all 5 up and running, they are roughly at 85% capacity!!! I'll call that a win for a battery that cost $100 retail lol. THANKS AGAIN
Didn't work on mine, 28v showing and no charge(indicator bad battery) ran it up to 32, 35, 38v and still shows bad in charger. I've switched from ryobi, these batteries fail way too early. Milwaukee seems to be better built anyway and I have yet to meet anyone who says anything negative about their batteries. Thanks for the vid, it was worth a try.
I didn't need the info (yet) but well presented. Thank you. Stumbled across this while trying to hunt down a deal on new 6ah batteries after my handyman accidently threw my backpack full of near new batteries in the dumpster.
It worked! Thanks! I did not solder a wire but simply held an alligator clip for about 3-5 minutes, plugged the battery back into the charger and it is charging! Took more time to tinker with the $15 12v Booster to get the output voltage correct.
This worked for an old version ryobi battery sitting in my garage. Used a 12VDC 1amp trickle charger for a motorcycle as the power supply. Battery measured 5vdc before charging .Charged to 32vdc after about 30min. Now an extra battery for my leaf blower. The battery works very well in this application. Thank You.
Rolando Sustaita . Yes. Used the charger as input to step-up. Charged to 32vdc and then installed battery into ryobi charger to complete the charge cycle.
I found another way that worked for me but it took some time. My Ryobi 40 volt would just flesh green/red over and over. I read that if you take the battery out, wait for one second and put it back in. Wait for it to triple blink red then triple green and then red again and then take it out again. Redo that until the battery starts to act normally.. I brought the charger inside and sat on the recliner and watched TV while I did this.. 35 minutes of rinse and repeat and WOOHOO.. my battery started working again... Apparently the battery charges just a little each time you do this and after 30 minutes oi so, it adds up
@@gryndkommeted1362 be patient with it.. I almos gave up a couple times.. Find a show that you can half pay attention to.. I did my father in-laws too and he took me out to dinner becuse it fixed his 100 dollar battery
I've had my 40 volt tools (trimmer, mower, chainsaw & blower) for 3 years and yesterday was the first time I've had this issue and I run them down until the tool shuts off. Tried the ol' "in and out of the charger" method and started charging after the 12th time! If that didn't do it, I was going to use jumpers between 2 batteries and try that.
@@01bluebusa Awesome.. I am a little scared of the jump start method. I watched a Nova where they messed with Lith-ion batteries and made them explode. I may be a chicken but I would hate for that to happen :)
Thanks for the video! I just boosted one of my batteries and it is now charging on the Ryobi charger now. I didn't solder a wire onto the negative lead. Just used a n alligator clip. Also, I got the same voltage booster and it came with a heat sink. I had to glue it on but other than that it was plug n play ;)
I have a newer battery that doesn't appear to have the same CL-1 terminal. Any suggestions? This battery came new to me as part of a reconditioned tool. Ryobi is replacing the battery but it would be nice to get this one going as a spare.
I bought the items you described on Amazon. Should be here today. How do you adjust the boost converter to get to the 38 to 40 volts that you recommend?
Great content. Cant wait to open mine up, but I have an older Ryobi single battery charger that that flashes defective whether a battery is loaded or not. Any ideas?
Thanks for this video. I've always been annoyed that batteries decide when they're "defective" and I would love it if they just let ME decide when they are no longer viable. I've long suspected they are not really bad, just some kind of thing exactly like this and it turns out "low voltage". I like that your hack does let ME decide. I've ordered the security torx bits and the step up converter. I've been wanting the security torx for a while for various things; like the fan in my DVR is noisy sometimes and I want to replace that, too, and the box as the security torx screws. Anyway, I'll let you know how the battery fix goes. Now, where's my multimeter.....?
Given the choice between deciding it's defective or burning down your house and getting sued, the corporations will always choose the 1st... Blame the lawyers.
I like my Ryobi 40v Gen II brushless chainsaw, but I have a dead baterry after 1 Year of minimal use and battery was tested bad at Home depot Grennville , Texas. I need a replacement ASP and am having trouble connecting right place to send in info?
If the battery is only 1 year old they will replace it for free. Call Ryobi support. They will need the serial number off the battery to replace it for free. Hope that helps!
I push the power button on the battery and all 4 led light flashes green 4 times. You know what that means? I can't get a reading on my solar booster when connected to the pos and neg.
Why can't you just hook a alligator clip to the negative terminal such as you did the positive and charge it that way instead of taking the battery apart and soldering the wire?
Go ahead and try it, it won't work, the battery voltage is to low and the circuit board "disconnected" the power terminals, you have to bypass the circuit board until the voltage is above 30 volts
Using 94Wh batteries in my blower (RY40401A Date Code 9-13-2013), it has been stopping when the charge status is at 2 lights (50%). It blows again when the trigger is depressed, but it's only for a second, indicating some part in the circuit is stopping the current. It has no problem before then. Battery voltage measured with voltmeter shows 37 volts across the + and - spades. The battery is OP4026 bought in 2015, so it is more than 4 years old. Ryobi only tells me to contact a service center. The battery does charge to 41 volts and displays all 4 green lights. With my 5Ah battery I don't have this problem since I'm usually finished before it can stop. I use the 5Ah batteries for my mower.
Just a thought but wouldn't it be easier to lower the adjusted voltage setting on the charger so it then can recognize the battery. (or attempt to remove the feature which the charger uses to control how it chargers) - just was wondering if that was a viable option.
Circuit board on thr charger doesn't have any way to modify it. Unless you have an electrical engineering degree and can reverse engineer it. Thanks for watching!
On NiMH rechargeable AA and AAA batteries when dead or will not take a charge I quickly 12v spark or 2-3 second 12v charge those. I read that is burns off the battery dendrite growth that short out a cell. Most Li Ion cells can be repaired this way too. Question? Is that a True -40v and +40v buss that by passed all the Ryobi 40v circuitry?
@@Jasonoid Cool Top case remove 2 screws access to all cells. I can now 12v spark or 1-2 second charge 2 cells. V.O.M. check which cells are low or dead to fix those. Advantage No 40v charger and I can fix duel bank of cells at a time with a common 12v charger or car battery. Only problem is you need a VOM and kinda have to know series parallel circuit voltage stuff. Oh bring each cell bank up to to 6v-6.2v (3-3.1v per cell) to insure you get that 35v needed to recharge.
Opened the case and did a 1min charge on the +40v bar -40v buss. Quickly installed the open battery on the 40v Ryobi charger and Green Flashing Light So 12v 6a car battery charger fixed all my 3 dead 40v Ryobi battery packs. Thankyou for the info on the +40v bar and the -40v buss. I could not have fixed those with out your help THX!!!
5:40 mine did not do that. I actually got them up to 3 out of 4 lights, about 37 volts, but whenever I put them on the charger they still flash red and green. I wonder why the charger refuses to charge them when they’re holding a charge?
This is an awesome video. Ive got a similar problem that I have not been able to fix. Maybe one of you great people have seen it. Ive got one of the old style batteries that will charge fine but only half way. Almost like half of the internal batteries are discharged or defective. Any way to fix this short of un soldering each and checking/recharging them individually?
Hey there, thanks for posting this helpful vid! I have an older one (incl with trimmer) and a new one (incl with chainsaw), and both work well right now (fingers crossed). I have a tangential question. The new batt came with a low-profile charger (OP 404), which has an external converter that indicates 120v/60w/80w in, 42v 1.5 A out. Would it be possible to somehow supply the low profile charger from 12v DC, eg from solar controller or automotive battery/stator system? What kind of converter would I need? Any thoughts you have about this would be super welcome. Thanks again!
You have to put 42V @ 1.5A to the charger or it will not work. You can connect the solar panel to a 12V to 42V boost converter. You need solar panels that put out at least 2X the power required or you will not have continuous charging. Best thing to do is to have solar charge a 12V battery then use the battery to power a 120V inverter so you have continuous power without interruption.
@@BradKwfc this is helpful, thanks a ton! My learning continues. I figured that the logic boards on the charger and battery would only function within pretty strict ranges.
@@Jasonoid Those updated links seem different, I do think I found the exact replacement for the boost/buck converter with the screw terminals here though: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z5M89N1/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A2A9N9TES6X0D0&psc=1 if you think it is I can update this comment to your affiliate link. Thanks for the info!
Would it be a danger/problem in connecting negative boost to battery negative terminal directly without opening the battery pack? I did not have a booster. I used two car battery charger in series to battery pack and finally managed to bring battery pack voltage up to 35V for charger to recognize the Remington 40V battery pack. Definitely, booster would have made it easier.
Usually when the battery is low voltage the internal battery management shuts down the terminals so opening it is the only way to charge it back up. There are multiple ways to get the voltage up, I'm glad you found a way without having to purchase the booster.
@@Jasonoid I ordered a booster for next time. I guess I was lucky that Remington pack does not shuts down the terminals. Now that I know I will use your tips on reviving other possible low voltage battery packs of different make. Thank you.
Thanks for video. I just got this model used and acts fine and then right when almost fully charged is when it says defective. Thinking I better just test it on my equipment first and then modify if necessary. Only strange thing is led on battery doesn’t show anything except when in charger then it lights up all way across flashing on last led. Then when almost charged or so seems I get the red and green on n off blinkin on charger came with it and my one year old charger. Strange for sure.
why do you need to open the battery and solder the wire? Couldn't you just use alligator clips on the terminals used to charge the battery in the charger? Thanks!
You need to bypass the Battery Management System that shut the battery down in the first place. You can use alligator clips instead of soldering to boost the battery voltage, just clip them on to where I soldered in the video. That works perfectly fine.
The capacity differs on each one. Depends how long the battery has been sitting at zero charge. Some batteries has 100% after the fix. I have two batteries I have recovered that are very good. Some other batteries have less capacity. I have 8 of these I have picked up over the years. I tend to stick to using about 4 of them that have the best capacity. Thanks for watching.
I have two Ryobi 40v Lithium batteries - one is the "new" kind you mentioned with 2.6Ah which is working fine, and the other is the dead one and has 4Ah. Can I just connect the terminals on both batteries with alligator clips (+ to + and - to -) to boost the dead one, and then use the wall charger to bring it up to 40v? Another question: Will either the Ryobi OP403 (with USB) or the OP404 charger revive the dead battery? Thanks.
Great video! I have an older 40v battery like this one and all the other ryobi 40v battery rehab videos I've seen show the RST (reset) procedure that the newer batteries have. My pack voltage is 42.3... turns out my charger may be the problem, first it was indicating a defective battery and not charging, now the indicator doesn't light up at all.
Once boosting the battery, you can use any ryobi 40v battery charger again(new or old), you just have to get the battery's voltage up to at least 35volts..
So when you connect the 12 V Power Supply to the battery there is a circuit board to boost the voltage to 40 V. Where do you get this board and how is it adjustable as it is apparently down stream of the adapter / inverter.
No need to leave the wire attached or to drill the hole. Just boost the battery, test it out, if it works disconnect the wire and use the battery as normal
@@Jasonoid is it possible to just hook the both the positive and clips up to the positive and negative terminals on the battery? Instead of the negative to the cl-one terminal and the positive to the positive terminal? Thanks in advance if you get the chance to reply
Stupid Question but Can I run a wire from the negative post on my 40 volt charger to the CL1 negative and then run positive to positive on both dead battery and charger. Would my dead 40 Volt Battery blow up or catch fire because of to much power coming from charger connected to wall outlet? Probably why you use a boost converter. From your description, you mention a strong current might damage cells. Just curious!
Jasonoid I have been inserting and removing a dead battery, in the charger, until green light comes on, hoping it is getting enough trickle. Got it up to 20 but seems to not go past that amount. Gonna try again tomorrow. If that doesn’t work, maybe I can get enough courage to try CL 1 to battery charger. I will get my son to stand by to disconnect charger from outlet. If these methods fail, I will order the items listed in your description. Thanks for answering me!
@@martycann1 Just FYI, you probably don't need the wire exposed off the CL1 point because every single battery I have fixed hasn't required the fix again. As long as you are careful to not over discharge them again. Good luck!
Jasonoid This battery has been discharged a long time. It still has a 20 volt charge according to my tester so I figure I need to get it over 30 or so.
I’ve ended up with two chargers for these batteries. Can’t I take one of the power cords and clip the factory end off and add some gator clips and do the same thing as your charger set up was doing?
You might not want to do that because then you are bypassing the low voltage cut off. I have only had to do this once to each battery so I would just recommend opening the case, connecting to the CL1 point, then removing the wire and putting it all back together. Thanks for watching!
Nice. Can the booster be used in place of the charger all together? Been charging mine by charging RV battery with solar panels, then using charger through an inverter. (Cutting grass with just solar charged batteries about 3 years now.) Wasting a lot of power converting DC to AC then back to DC. Wasn't an issue before. Trying to do a little too much with this 3amp 14.5v system.
Lithium ion batteries charge a very specific way (Constant Current / Constant Voltage methods). This booster is only to help the charger recognize the battery. Once it's back to normal voltage please continue to use the proper charger. Yeah, it's lame they don't offer a DC to DC charger haha
@@Jasonoid thank you. This has been my conundrum. The solar is like a 3 amp trickle charger for the RV batteries, the RV batteries are like a capacitor that keeps the voltage (relatively) consistent while running the pool pump or whatever. The inverter acknowledges the fact that the battery will be 13.8-10.5 and adjusts the output. Just wish I could use the charge regulator with a DC-DC booster to waste less power.
@@haroldlamble5163 a car battery charger only puts out 12 volts, this battery needs at least 30 volts to get the battery up to where the battery will charge on the Ryobi charger again.
I've done this fix before like a year ago from the video that's already out that's just a video of a diagram pic basically (I'm assuming that's where you got this idea from by the method you used) and it worked for the summer but then stopped. After taking it apart again I found a few bad cells which I replaced. (Most likely because they're no longer being balanced during the jumping up the voltage) Now I'm "pretty certain" the board is ok but no way to test other than a volt meter and it appears that all my volt readings from various points seem to be right. After charging I get 43 volts from the same ground point you used to the same positive of the connector lead but when going across the main neg and pos that connects to my blower or any tool I only get 16.4 volts. So my question to you is: What reading do you get going across the 2 main external connector leads? Do you get your 40+ volts there too? I would think so but I wasn't sure if it works in a wierd way because of the circuit board and only delivers the 40v when plugged in to a tool and is being used kinda like how you can't just charge the battery by hooking the main connect pos and neg.
I only recommend 'boosting' the batteries one time to get the battery voltage above 33 volts, then the normal charger should be used each time after to charge and balance the individual batteries. I have been able to do this on all my batteries (I have 8 of them). Also, just be save in the future and not run the battery all the way down on your tool. Avoiding the factory charger and using the boost converter it will overcharge some cells and under charge others. I don't have a battery with me at work so I can't verify what a good battery voltage shows at the main power terminals.
@@Jasonoid Yea I know, I bought like 6 for $80 bucks on EBay and it was a gamble on what was wrong between salted/corroded boards, bad cells, or as simple as just needing a jump. And after trial an error and actually getting 3 of 6 working 2 by jumping and one by swapping the circuit board (easy BTW but only if you have a GOOD solder sucker) I've messed the charger up to where I had to bridge a connection on the circuit board in that POS too so it doesn't give errors anymore, like at all. Just constantly puts outs 43.5 volts. Which is fine as long as you use a meter when charging and keep a close eye on it and manually balance your cells out. But after all this B.S. and reengineering along with quite a bit if use out of them last year....its finally came to an end so I was just wondering what someone with a good battery had a reading of before I finally give in and just purchase something besides Ryobi. LOL I guess later when you get home if you have 30 seconds to throw a meter on those 2 connect leads and let me know the result that would be pretty stellar. Thanks again for your reply brotha. Justin
Jasonoid I seem to have the same problem that Norman Randolph has. I have a Ryobi OP4026 showing fully charged in the charger and on the attached LED meter but powers tools for only a second. It's showing 37.5v on the "-" lead, but 86.5v on the T1 lead. The circuit board looks clean. The battery was great prior to some cold and rain. The leaf blower definitely got soaked in the rain and battery might have gotten a few rain drops on it too. Any ideas?
I actually had one battery do the same thing. After looking at everything and attempting to fix it, I figured something in the circuit board had burnt out, probably due to a short circuit. The board is dual sided so it's almost impossible to inspect both sides. Out of 8 batteries I have recovered, I only had 1 fail to this issue so I don't think its very common.
So I picked up the charger parts you listed in the description. Max output I can get from these is 36.8vdc. Do you think that will be enough to make the charge?
you just need to get the battery to about 30 volts, then plug it into the Ryobi charger to do the rest of the charging safety. The part you bought is just to boost the voltage up so the Ryobi charger will see it again as being a good battery.
Set everything up as you have it here. Putting my alligator clip onto the positive with converter off there was a small spark from the clip to the pos terminal.
I have a few 40v that charge fine but won’t hold that charge that long, would this method help or fix that issue? Also I only have access to 24 and 48v DC, will either of these work or help? Thanks for your help
The cells inside the battery have lost their capacity. It happens over time of if the batteries sit at a low voltage to long. There isn't much to fix the batteries that wont hold a charge very long. A 48 volt DC charger would probably work, just don't let it sit to long, you only want to boost the battery up to a voltage where the charger will recognize it again.
My older style battery reads 19.3V at the normal pos/neg connections but 38.5V at the CL1- and pos pin. Battery wont charge any further and reads green on charger but wont run any tools. Is it actually charged but a an issue with the negative pin or board?
Sometimes the circuit board gets damaged from water or gets corroded overtime in a humid environment. I have seen some with over-current issues and the circuit board looks burned in some places. Do you see any of that on your circuit board? It would probably mean you have a different issue on your battery and it might be toast. If you purchased Amazon products to fix your battery you can always return them.
I bought one of these old Ryobi 40v OP4026 batteries, charger, and a couple weedeaters at a yardsale. I planned on harvesting the motors for an awesome very large 3d printed tank chassis I made. When I put the battery on charge, it charged up all the way then gave me the red/green flashing lights. It wont work in the weedeaters and wont work when hooking the motors directly to the battery terminals. On a multimeter, it gives about 35v but slowly drops. Is there any fix for this issue?
The circuit board is probably fried. Some people try some crazy things with these batteries like leaving them out in the rain. Open it up and inspect it for damage.
Not sure what I am doing wrong. Soldered a wire up just like you did. Testing with my multimeter shows it at 18V or so, between the positive tab and the new negative wire. When I hook up the boost converter to a pretty beefy 12v 1A power supply with built in circuit breaker, the multimeter shows output of boost converter at 35V, which is what I set it to with the little screw. When I connect that to the battery it instantly trips the breaker. I see that the charger for Ryobi puts out like 2A, so I figured I needed a more powerful supply, so when I use a 19V 6.5A power supply, the boost converter again shows 35V, but it instantly trips that breaker too when connected to the battery. No shorts, I am sure, since the multimeter connected to the battery shows a steady voltage, as expected. Any ideas?
@@Jasonoid On the first supply, it turns out it was 1 AMP (even though it was a really beefy 12V power supply). On the second supply, it was 19V at 6 amps. The step-up converter is rated for 9A in, and 6A out, so I didn't want to push it. And yes, I am sure there's no short circuit, if I use my multimeter on the battery's positive terminal and the new negative wire, it shows an expected DC voltage of around 18 or so.
Going to try your setup, but since I don't know much and have been doing a little research, isn't the amperage of the battery important? If your stepup only goes to 9 amps, and your battery is a 6 amps, then don't you need a max of 16 amps on your input voltage to get to 32 volts if your input voltage is only 12? Or does the input amperage not matter as long as it's above the minimum? 32VX16A=192 watts
When charging the battery, the level of amperage just determines how long it will take to charge the battery. 1 amp charge rate will take much longer than a 10 amp charge rate. The process in the video is here to just boost the battery voltage high enough to get the stock charger to recognize the battery again.
You can do that, when I made the video I didn't have experience to know if the battery would stay above the 30 volts after many cycles. It seems to only need the charge once as long as you don't over discharge the battery again.
@Jasonoid Did everything exactly and used similar 12v adaptor at 1.5 Amp. After Half a day my Multimeter reading stuck at 27.2 volts. its not charging up anymore. What do you think is the problem? Thanks!
@@scrambler008 I'm guessing the 1.5amp adapter isn't strong enough to get the voltage past where it's at or it's going to take a long time. You got anything stronger laying around? How high is the buck converter turned up.
So I worked this same process and I was able to bring a battery up to 35V but my charger still shows defective. It’s the slide on version that doesn’t have a USB port. I’m wondering if I should get a larger base charger to see if maybe my charger is defective.
Tried this on a battery that had dropped TOO low in voltage - ~1.6 V, so I it was too low to work. I was only able to bring it up to 8.7 V with your mod. But I have another battery with a different problem. It shows to have fully charged on the charger and shows fully charged when you press the Charge State button on the battery. But when you attach it to something like say a blower, it runs for ~2 seconds then quits. When you pull the trigger on the blower again; same thing - ~2 seconds of running then it quits. Any suggestions????
I have done this process on 5 batteries successfully, I had one battery around 1.7 volts and I was able to get it to charge up to 35 volts for the charger to recognize it. I would recommend making sure your variable voltage on the boost converter is set all the way up to 40 volts. It will take awhile but it should boost it eventually. When the batteries are that low, they have been damaged and have lost some total capacity. The battery I fixed that was that low lasts a little less than the other ones that had higher voltages. As for the second battery, it sounds like as it's trying to pull amps through it shuts off. As you take it apart, do you see any burnt markings on the circuit board? I bet the board may be going bad. If it's under warranty you can get a replacement for free.
@@Jasonoid Thanks for the reply. Yes, the step-up converter is up to 40V. It's been charging for 3 days now - still charging as I write this. Are there charging plateaus? Should I be patient with it a bit longer? No, I called Ryobi and mine are past the 3-year warranty. On the one that shuts down, I did see some signs of high heat on the circuit board. I didn't find a method of removing the board - maybe swapping it with the board from the low battery pack. Any suggestions on how to safely do that? Norm
@@normanrandolph134 I have dismantled these boards and battery packs. You have to do a lot of damage to get it apart. You might be better off buying another used battery. As for the one that isn't charging past 1.6 volts, mine only took 30 minutes to get up to 30volts, 3 days has me worried. Where are your charging leads connected?
@@Jasonoid Correction: The one that is shutting down does NOT have the tell-tale heat marks. It's the one that's not taking the charge well that has those signs. Here's a couple of pictures of the one that's shutting down. It doesn't have any signs of overheating. < 1drv.ms/f/s!AuAvg0DMohwAhNsIk4kZWulE2z6XCA > . I took several snaps trying to avoid the shadow that my hand was casting. Forgot to mention that the positive lead from the step-up converter is attached to the "+" blade and the "-" lead is attached to the new pigtail sticking out of the case.
@@normanrandolph134 I'm guessing the charging voltage is reversed or the charging leads are not hooked up correctly. Make sure positive coming off your boost converter is not backwards. The writing is very small and that may be the issue.
Most people have not had luck with that method, the readouts don't give the proper voltage. You have to connect to the CL-1 connection within the battery. It only takes 2 or 3 minutes to open the case up. Totally worth the time spent.
The circuit board inside the battery disconnects that lead when the battery voltage Falls below critical. Opening up the battery allows you to bypass that disconnect point in the circuit board.
Hello,thank you very much for the video. I bought on ebay from the USA Ryobi 40 vlt, the package went 2 months. The battery is discharged to 34 volts. What current amps need to be charged and up to how many volts that the charger would work with the battery? thank.
@@mmnasyrov My boost converter runs off 12 volts and boosts to 40volts. I have it set at 38 volts to be safe, only charges at 1 amp. Make sure you get the right charger in the long run, this 'boost' method is only to raise the voltage of the battery.
@@Jasonoid Hi and thank you for the video. I have a handful of 12v adapters laying around but not sure if they produce 5A. Based on this comment I would think that is okay but will just take longer. Do you concur?
@jasonoid, so I tried this but my 35V boost converter won't go past 24 volts when charging. Then it goes down to 19V after a few minutes... does this mean the 40V battery is defective?
12v, 5amp charger. The boost converter goes up to 35.9 V plugged in alone but then tanks to 20 V once i hook it up to the battery. After 30 minutes, it goes to 18 V. Then I test the batt in the charger and get defective lights.
@@samtamulevich8768 there must be something wrong with your BMS control board in the battery. This process wont fix all the issues with these batteries, it just helps if they have been over discharged. I'm sorry it didn't work. Hopefully you can return your purchased components to Amazon without an issue.
@@Jasonoid Thanks, I'm gonna keep everything because I think they're useful. I ended up buying a 6mAh 40V 3rd party replacement, which seems fine so far.
I haven't tried the new converter. It may come with instructions. The Amazon seller or product page will have the best info on it. See the product comments and reviews for all details.
I tried this and it jumped up almost immediately, but the DC boost convertor started smoking so I unplugged it. Unsure why I can't do it. Could be the wire is not correct gauge maybe? Not sure how to adjust the convertor
You have to bypass the control board, you can use an alligator clip instead of soldering. Once completing the fix, if you don't take the battery all the way down again to 0, you won't need to do the mod again.
Should work great, if you already have one laying around, give it a shot. I would set the voltage lower and then raise it up over time. Especially at that high amperage. Don't you use it long term, just use it to get the voltage high enough for the stock charger to recognize the battery.
The battery charger probably wont sense the correct battery and might give an error or something, but I guess it's always worth trying. Let us know how it goes!
Mine shows 2 bars charged. I see 18v between plus and minus terminals. 37v between T1 and plus terminals suggesting cells are all charged up. I'll open it up and take a peek inside. Edit: a bit of water damage near cell one which dropped to 2.7v all others at 3.8v. think ic protection kicked in and won't switch GND line MOSFET. Cell 1 charged to match others but MOSFET still not switching. There is a RST pin at 3.3v. should I gnd that pin momentarily? Edit. Something weird just happened. Probing terminals of T to see what resistance... Lights at front panel flashed...and now it seems all is good. 38v on terminals as it should be. Wow
Like I said where do I buy that special tip that take some screws out because it has a pain in the middle of the Starship and I can't find that tip nowhere where do I buy it please
I have my tool kit I used in the video description. It has the special security torx bit I used to open it up. Pretty cheap and comes in handy for ALL small electronics
My battery reads 41V at Cl1 and the + spade. But the + spade and the - spade reads 17.5V. When the battery is plugged into the charger the charger shows all green LEDs lit. When the battery is plugged into the power head, the attachment does nothing. What do you think is the problem? Bad battery motherboard?
Out of the 7 batteries I have on hand, I have one battery that does the same thing as you mention. I wish It was still in warranty. I think the circuit board is defective and probably had a short circuit in it somewhere. It won't power my devices but it is fully charged. Im thinking it's a safety mechanism built in the board to prevent a fire or incorrect charging because something failed internally. These batteries have a lot of power in them and are a fire hazard if something goes wrong inside.
@@Jasonoid thanks for the quick reply. Sadly, I'm probably going to trash it because Ryobi won't replace it because It was mfgr'd more that 3 years ago and I can't find the receipt.
@@billglock2587 If you are confident about disassembling the battery pack. (I have done it before, it doesn't take long) You can reuse the 20 18650 high discharge batteries inside. They work really well for LED flashlights. You could possibly re-coup some of the cost for a new battery by selling them. Just an idea.
I did this method but my battery voltage was too low and can only charge up to 20.60 volts. My booster is set to maximum which for some reason only goes to 37.67
You might be charging the wrong terminals. 20volts seems about half the battery so many thats where you are hitting an issue. What type of power adapter do you have plugged into the booster? A 12 volt adapter with how many amps?
Might be that mosfet.on the battery pack I am repairing one now. Mine only read 20 volts or so the mosfet connects the other side of the battery assembly. I will post my results when the parts come in next week or so.
@@ronb6182 Did you solve your problem by changing the mosfet? I working with a battery right now also showing 20.5V from negative to positive but every single cell shows 4.2V. I'm also thinking of a failed mosfet.
@@everhill no the part was too large and I really don't think it's the right part. There are ways to charge all the batteries with separate chargers. But to me it's cheaper to buy the leaf blower and get a 4 amp hour battery. I already have the string trimmer and I'm using that battery for my mower. Two batteries are enough to do my yard when the grass is not too high. Otherwise I use gasoline mower. My mower quits when the grass and I have to wait until it resets at least one minute or two.
i wanna take one of these and usa a yamaha 12v RECTIFIER and supplement my battery on my atv for the winch from time to time and to use it as a jumper pack to start cars and tractors.. i cant figure out why this wouldn't work
Does it run fine in the tool since charging it manually? It could be the charger that's broken. Sometimes my charger needs to be unplugged for 10 minutes and then plugged back in and it works.... No joke!
I have the same problem. One bad battery and I tried the putting the battery on and off again method and now I have 2 chargers that stay in red and green despite the fact there is no battery on them. Even putting one of my good batteries on doesn't work. Any ideas??
@@TheTRoger19 There seems to be a processor on the charger. Unplugging the charger for 3 minutes letting it completely power down, then plugging it in and trying again seems to help. These batteries also have a circuit board inside them that has many electrical components that can fail. I think many of these batteries fail without heavy use. Ryobi certainly could make them better.
@@Jasonoid thanks for the quick reply. I the two chargers I have were both left unplugged for a week then I tried again. Still flash red/green without the battery in them. I may ione them up and see if there are any visible issues. Otherwise it seems like putting the sleep mode battery on the charger killed my charger too, which doesn't make much sense
@@TheTRoger19 if you have the newer style pcb, there is a reset "button". On the edge of the pcb, on the side with the negative terminal, about half way between the terminal and the end of the pcb, there are 2 pins next to each other marked "rst". Jump them and the safety lock resets. As long as the cell voltage is high enough for the charger, it will charge.
Yeah, that would work. I have not needed to recharge these batteries since getting them boosted up. Just don't let them discharge below 33 volts and you won't have the issue again.
Is there an easier way to raise the voltage? This is confusing and I have to buy many things. I don't have soddering equipment either. To do all that work and find that it wasn't the reason is was defective would be soul crushing
I bought the step up converter in you link. After I set it to 35 volts and hooked to battery per your instructions the booster drops to about 15 volts. Any ideas why this is happening.
@@kenparrish3176 these seem to have pretty specific instructions. Did you follow what the manufacturer said? Some people have had issues but most have been able to get their batteries up and working. If it's not working just apply for a refund and get a new one. Sorry for the hassle!
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IMPORTANT NOTE: The wire from the CL1 - terminal can be removed after boosting the battery. I have done this to many batteries and I have NEVER needed the wire a second time. Just be careful to not over discharge the battery again in the future and you wont need to boost it again. I would recommend you remove the soldered wire after boosting the battery to avoid possible short circuits. You could also try to use an alligator clip instead of soldering.
Thanks Jasonoid.
I revived a newer version of the Ryobi 40v 2.6A rev Q battery today. On these newer batteries the negative is marked GND instead of CL1. I simply used two sets of wired alligator clips and used a good battery to boost the bad one:
1 Clip one end of the negative wire to GND (I taped the aluminum block next to it to prevent short), the other end to the negative contact of the good battery.
2. Clip one end of the positive wire to the positive contact of the good battery, the other end to the positive contact of the bad battery. I did it in this sequence because the positive contact on the good battery with the case on is harder to reach. I didn't want to create too much spark while trying to put the last clip on.
At this point there is a small spark as expected. After about 3-5 seconds I noticed a tiny bit of smoke (probably because the clips and wire are overloaded), so I disconnected one of the clips right away. Then I measured the voltage on the bad battery and it had risen to just above 30v from 8v in that 3-5 seconds, so I decided to put the battery into the charger, and what a joy when I saw that the blinking light was green only instead of green and red before.
Can you make video out of new battery? I was able to reset battery with shorting res contact, but still getting 1 and 4 sold light on mattery when i try to charge and about 10sec later charger starting to red and green blinking. After reset again i see one sold light.
Seen this method a year or so ago online somewhere (may have been this one idk). Honestly its the easiest from all ive found. this has worked for 3 batteries so far. Only down side if you have to have a good one already. If it was you comment i seen then thanks!! lol
This worked for me!! Thank you for posting this comment. I realized after trying the charging contacts directly that you meant putting the negative to the spot on the circuit board where the guy who made this video soldered his!! Worked within a min or two, it's now charging on its charger again!! Appreciate you!
I would add one thing to this video - this method of charging is bypassing the fets which are controlled by the bms - and i believe that before you start bypassing the bms, you need to make sure that all the cells have a similar voltage (you don't want one of them too high in particular to this hack) - charging a pack that has one cell high could lead to over voltage and bad bad stuff like thermal runaway etc etc etc - know what you're doing - do your research - don't burn your house down - otherwise this is a good method used quite often by those who know what they're doing
Thanks SO MUCH! I called the number after I wrote down my three numbers! A WONDERFUL woman helped me find the right number for my lawn mower, she checked them and WITHIN 7 Days I had a small heavy box on my front porch! Really fast, luckily I got the lawn mowed between all the great rain we’ve had here in SW FLORIDA. I love the ryobi mower with the lights. I use it year round here, so it shouldn’t go into sleep mode! THANKS SO MUCH FOR THIS INFO , AND SAVING ME $ 108.00. For not having to buy a new one at Home Depot! You are WONDERFUL!
Glad you found this helpful :) Thanks for reaching out!
For the newer style batteries!! Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damages from the information I’m giving. With that being said, I do have a newer style battery with a newer board that had given me this same problem. After some research I discovered that CL1- is the pack ground on the newer style board labeled GRND. I soldered the wire to this terminal & started charging just like this video & viola, it worked! It did take about 3 hrs for the voltage of the battery to reach 32V & like someone else posted, after boosting the converter to 35V, the converter stop displaying the voltage while charging (red led lights turning on & off), even the blue light on the power adapter would turn on & off. It seemed like this was ok. I would recommend monitoring the charge (don’t step away & leave unattended) & have a fire extinguisher close just in case. Good luck guys!
TRIED IT , IT WORKED GREAT , THE ONLY THING I CHANGED WAS , SINCE THE HOLE I DRILLED WAS ALMOST THE SAME DIAMETER AS THE WIRE , ON THE INSIDE OF THE CASE I WRAPED SOME TAPE AROUND THE WIRE TO PREVENT PULLING ON THE SOLDER CONECTION. THANKS!
I hooked 4 9v batteries in series and connected to the cl6 terminal(neg) and the pos. terminal on the outside on my 2018 & 2019 batteries. Got it up to 17v and the charger recognized both. Charged to full capacity.
Great idea, didnt think about using 9volt batteries. Thanks for sharing!
@@Jasonoid I was surprised it worked.
Thanks, this worked like a charm. I used a 48v 10 amp power supply adjusted to 40v. The 3-year-old battery jumped from 23v to 35v with a 10-second charge.
Where did you get the 48V power supply? Can you provide the link if it is Amazon?
Yikes, I'd think twice about adding that much voltage and AMPs that fast, it's a good way to permanently kill a cell, and if your unlucky, explode a cell and start a thermal run-away fire that's impossible to put out (you just have to let it burn all that nasty lithium, like those videos of vape people whose pockets suddenly burst into flames and explode)
There are a number of 18650 cells in these battery packs (vape smokers have one cell, if you see those exploding videos) and they are managed by that BMS electronics board that you are bypassing. It is generally safe to charge an 18650 at 1C (or 1 amp). Now your 10 amps is being divided by some of the cells, but these packs have cells in series and parallel, so unless you actually know the configuration, its hard to say how it's being divided. But on top of that, at least one cell is lower than the rest, (causing the problem in the first place) and it might be damaged, meaning it might take less to start it on fire.
TLDR, use low amps and go slow to save yourself a burnt down house
Thanks SO much for this video. I brought my battery back from the dead and it's charging again. I appreciate you putting the time in to make this video. I bought the tool kit, and Boost Up converter you recommended from Amazon, and they actually arrived the next day. I didn't end up soldering the negative wire to the board, I was able to use some electrical tape and a rubber band to make the connection during charging. My plan is never to fully deplete the battery again - I'll stop and swap when it gets down to two dots. I was able to crank the booster up to about 37 volts using a tiny screwdriver from the kit. When it's actually charging the LED display blanks and two lights blink on the booster board. It took about 3 hours, and I was able to bring the voltage of the battery from about 25 volts to about 33.5 volts. I figured that would be enough - unplugged the charger, disconnected the leads and screwed the battery back together. I put it in the charger and it started charging. Thanks again!
How did the capacity (run time) of the 'fixed' battery compare to normal 40V batteries of the same AHr rating? Thanks.
Richard Friend It’s the same as it was before I ran it complexly flat on the blower. (Damn Oak tree). Just had to get the voltage up a bit so the charger recognized it again.
This worked just as described. Got mine up to about 32 volts and the charger recognized the battery. Thanks for the video!
Thanks, this save 2 batteries for me. BTW, I charged mine with another 40V battery (connected plus-to-plus and minus to the wire shown in your video) and it only took a few minutes to get it charged enough so the Ryobi charger would work. Thanks again.
Oh sweet might try this thank you
Do you have to open up the discharged battery or can you connect on the outside from new CHARGED battery to DISCHARGED battery? Thanks, Marty
Could you explain how you did that?
Good details instruction. Mine is about 4-5yrs old. Occasionally after use I get the defective flash when I insert in the charger. I stick it in the freezer for 15-20 mins and it recharges ok.
Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for the Video, I bought 5 of these packs for $6 bucks each, got all 5 up and running, they are roughly at 85% capacity!!! I'll call that a win for a battery that cost $100 retail lol. THANKS AGAIN
they are now $180 !!!
Didn't work on mine, 28v showing and no charge(indicator bad battery) ran it up to 32, 35, 38v and still shows bad in charger. I've switched from ryobi, these batteries fail way too early. Milwaukee seems to be better built anyway and I have yet to meet anyone who says anything negative about their batteries. Thanks for the vid, it was worth a try.
There is a reset on the board, which I tried after manually chargeing the battery to 35 Volts. Mine still did not work.
I didn't need the info (yet) but well presented. Thank you. Stumbled across this while trying to hunt down a deal on new 6ah batteries after my handyman accidently threw my backpack full of near new batteries in the dumpster.
You can just loosen the screw near the shunt resistors ie big rectangle part near where you have soldered the wire too and charge it that way too
It worked! Thanks! I did not solder a wire but simply held an alligator clip for about 3-5 minutes, plugged the battery back into the charger and it is charging! Took more time to tinker with the $15 12v Booster to get the output voltage correct.
Hi Jason, do you have a video on how to wire up the step-up boost converter? Thank you
This worked for an old version ryobi battery sitting in my garage. Used a 12VDC 1amp trickle charger for a motorcycle as the power supply. Battery measured 5vdc before charging .Charged to 32vdc after about 30min. Now an extra battery for my leaf blower. The battery works very well in this application.
Thank You.
did you modify the trickle charger (boost converter between) or just used it like charging any other battery(connect to +/- leads)?
Rolando Sustaita . Yes. Used the charger as input to step-up. Charged to 32vdc and then installed battery into ryobi charger to complete the charge cycle.
I found another way that worked for me but it took some time. My Ryobi
40 volt would just flesh green/red over and over. I read that if you
take the battery out, wait for one second and put it back in. Wait for
it to triple blink red then triple green and then red again and then
take it out again. Redo that until the battery starts to act normally..
I brought the charger inside and sat on the recliner and watched TV
while I did this.. 35 minutes of rinse and repeat and WOOHOO.. my
battery started working again... Apparently the battery charges just a
little each time you do this and after 30 minutes oi so, it adds up
I'ma try
@@gryndkommeted1362 be patient with it.. I almos gave up a couple times.. Find a show that you can half pay attention to.. I did my father in-laws too and he took me out to dinner becuse it fixed his 100 dollar battery
@@leweezo33 well that is a win. I did it for 40 min and Nada. Will try again tomorrow
I've had my 40 volt tools (trimmer, mower, chainsaw & blower) for 3 years
and yesterday was the first time I've had this issue and I run them down until the tool shuts off. Tried the ol' "in and out of the charger" method and started charging after the 12th time! If that didn't do it, I was going to use jumpers between 2 batteries and try that.
@@01bluebusa Awesome.. I am a little scared of the jump start method. I watched a Nova where they messed with Lith-ion batteries and made them explode. I may be a chicken but I would hate for that to happen :)
Any idea if theres a fix for the newer batteries?
Is there a reason for having the negative lead always external to the battery?
Thanks for the video! I just boosted one of my batteries and it is now charging on the Ryobi charger now. I didn't solder a wire onto the negative lead. Just used a n alligator clip. Also, I got the same voltage booster and it came with a heat sink. I had to glue it on but other than that it was plug n play ;)
I have a newer battery that doesn't appear to have the same CL-1 terminal. Any suggestions? This battery came new to me as part of a reconditioned tool. Ryobi is replacing the battery but it would be nice to get this one going as a spare.
Do you have to use the converter to get it to charge,,, could you use another 40v battery and let it trickle charge the bad one
I bought the items you described on Amazon. Should be here today. How do you adjust the boost converter to get to the 38 to 40 volts that you recommend?
There is a little brass flat head screw you adjust to get the voltage to where you want. As you turn it it either goes down or up in voltage.
@@Jasonoid Thanks
Great content. Cant wait to open mine up, but I have an older Ryobi single battery charger that that flashes defective whether a battery is loaded or not. Any ideas?
Not sure what to do with a broken charger
Thanks for this video. I've always been annoyed that batteries decide when they're "defective" and I would love it if they just let ME decide when they are no longer viable. I've long suspected they are not really bad, just some kind of thing exactly like this and it turns out "low voltage".
I like that your hack does let ME decide. I've ordered the security torx bits and the step up converter. I've been wanting the security torx for a while for various things; like the fan in my DVR is noisy sometimes and I want to replace that, too, and the box as the security torx screws.
Anyway, I'll let you know how the battery fix goes. Now, where's my multimeter.....?
It's right over there.
Given the choice between deciding it's defective or burning down your house and getting sued, the corporations will always choose the 1st... Blame the lawyers.
I like my Ryobi 40v Gen II brushless chainsaw, but I have a dead baterry after 1 Year of minimal use and battery was tested bad at Home depot Grennville , Texas. I need a replacement ASP and am having trouble connecting right place to send in info?
If the battery is only 1 year old they will replace it for free. Call Ryobi support. They will need the serial number off the battery to replace it for free. Hope that helps!
Please can you explain why you opened it up vs just clipping straight to the terminals to charge?
Check out other comments, it's been discussed multiple times before. Thanks for watching!
Can I use a fully charged battery to boost the dead battery until it reaches 35 volts?
I push the power button on the battery and all 4 led light flashes green 4 times. You know what that means? I can't get a reading on my solar booster when connected to the pos and neg.
Why can't you just hook a alligator clip to the negative terminal such as you did the positive and charge it that way instead of taking the battery apart and soldering the wire?
Go ahead and try it, it won't work, the battery voltage is to low and the circuit board "disconnected" the power terminals, you have to bypass the circuit board until the voltage is above 30 volts
Could you just connect to the external + and - terminals without opening the case? Why or why not?
Using 94Wh batteries in my blower (RY40401A Date Code 9-13-2013), it has been stopping when the charge status is at 2 lights (50%). It blows again when the trigger is depressed, but it's only for a second, indicating some part in the circuit is stopping the current. It has no problem before then. Battery voltage measured with voltmeter shows 37 volts across the + and - spades. The battery is OP4026 bought in 2015, so it is more than 4 years old. Ryobi only tells me to contact a service center.
The battery does charge to 41 volts and displays all 4 green lights.
With my 5Ah battery I don't have this problem since I'm usually finished before it can stop. I use the 5Ah batteries for my mower.
Just a thought but wouldn't it be easier to lower the adjusted voltage setting on the charger so it then can recognize the battery. (or attempt to remove the feature which the charger uses to control how it chargers) - just was wondering if that was a viable option.
Circuit board on thr charger doesn't have any way to modify it. Unless you have an electrical engineering degree and can reverse engineer it. Thanks for watching!
On NiMH rechargeable AA and AAA batteries when dead or will not take a charge I quickly 12v spark or 2-3 second 12v charge those. I read that is burns off the battery dendrite growth that short out a cell. Most Li Ion cells can be repaired this way too.
Question?
Is that a True -40v and +40v buss that by passed all the Ryobi 40v circuitry?
It's a true 12S2P lithium Ion battery, nominal volts is around 40v. If the battery circuit board does t get overloaded they seem to work really well.
@@Jasonoid Cool Top case remove 2 screws access to all cells. I can now 12v spark or 1-2 second charge 2 cells. V.O.M. check which cells are low or dead to fix those.
Advantage
No 40v charger and I can fix duel bank of cells at a time with a common 12v charger or car battery. Only problem is you need a VOM and kinda have to know series parallel circuit voltage stuff. Oh bring each cell bank up to to 6v-6.2v (3-3.1v per cell) to insure you get that 35v needed to recharge.
Opened the case and did a 1min charge on the +40v bar -40v buss. Quickly installed the open battery on the 40v Ryobi charger and Green Flashing Light
So
12v 6a car battery charger fixed all my 3 dead 40v Ryobi battery packs.
Thankyou for the info on the +40v bar and the -40v buss. I could not have fixed those with out your help THX!!!
5:40 mine did not do that. I actually got them up to 3 out of 4 lights, about 37 volts, but whenever I put them on the charger they still flash red and green. I wonder why the charger refuses to charge them when they’re holding a charge?
I have a battery that does this same thing, you can still use the battery, it just doesn't get a complete charge.
This is an awesome video. Ive got a similar problem that I have not been able to fix. Maybe one of you great people have seen it. Ive got one of the old style batteries that will charge fine but only half way. Almost like half of the internal batteries are discharged or defective. Any way to fix this short of un soldering each and checking/recharging them individually?
Hey there, thanks for posting this helpful vid! I have an older one (incl with trimmer) and a new one (incl with chainsaw), and both work well right now (fingers crossed). I have a tangential question.
The new batt came with a low-profile charger (OP 404), which has an external converter that indicates 120v/60w/80w in, 42v 1.5 A out.
Would it be possible to somehow supply the low profile charger from 12v DC, eg from solar controller or automotive battery/stator system? What kind of converter would I need?
Any thoughts you have about this would be super welcome. Thanks again!
You have to put 42V @ 1.5A to the charger or it will not work.
You can connect the solar panel to a 12V to 42V boost converter.
You need solar panels that put out at least 2X the power required or you will not have continuous charging.
Best thing to do is to have solar charge a 12V battery then use the battery to power a 120V inverter so you have continuous power without interruption.
@@BradKwfc this is helpful, thanks a ton! My learning continues. I figured that the logic boards on the charger and battery would only function within pretty strict ranges.
Happy New Year
I suppose the same principle will apply to a 36v Ryobi ?
Regards,
K S
Im guessing it would. I haven't tested on those batteries specifically.
Hey Jason, can't find the product Boost Step Up Converter (updated product): on amazon. What else can be used?
I updated the video description with other models that should work. Thanks for the heads up!
@@Jasonoid Those updated links seem different, I do think I found the exact replacement for the boost/buck converter with the screw terminals here though: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z5M89N1/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A2A9N9TES6X0D0&psc=1 if you think it is I can update this comment to your affiliate link. Thanks for the info!
Great video bud, but how do you tell if you have a new or old type battery?
If it looks like the one in the video, it's the old design
Would it be a danger/problem in connecting negative boost to battery negative terminal directly without opening the battery pack?
I did not have a booster. I used two car battery charger in series to battery pack and finally managed to bring battery pack voltage up to 35V for charger to recognize the Remington 40V battery pack.
Definitely, booster would have made it easier.
Usually when the battery is low voltage the internal battery management shuts down the terminals so opening it is the only way to charge it back up. There are multiple ways to get the voltage up, I'm glad you found a way without having to purchase the booster.
@@Jasonoid I ordered a booster for next time. I guess I was lucky that Remington pack does not shuts down the terminals. Now that I know I will use your tips on reviving other possible low voltage battery packs of different make. Thank you.
Thanks for video. I just got this model used and acts fine and then right when almost fully charged is when it says defective. Thinking I better just test it on my equipment first and then modify if necessary. Only strange thing is led on battery doesn’t show anything except when in charger then it lights up all way across flashing on last led. Then when almost charged or so seems I get the red and green on n off blinkin on charger came with it and my one year old charger. Strange for sure.
why do you need to open the battery and solder the wire? Couldn't you just use alligator clips on the terminals used to charge the battery in the charger? Thanks!
You need to bypass the Battery Management System that shut the battery down in the first place. You can use alligator clips instead of soldering to boost the battery voltage, just clip them on to where I soldered in the video. That works perfectly fine.
Did you ever answer the capacity question? How was capacity on these repaired batteries?
The capacity differs on each one. Depends how long the battery has been sitting at zero charge. Some batteries has 100% after the fix. I have two batteries I have recovered that are very good. Some other batteries have less capacity. I have 8 of these I have picked up over the years. I tend to stick to using about 4 of them that have the best capacity. Thanks for watching.
I have two Ryobi 40v Lithium batteries - one is the "new" kind you mentioned with 2.6Ah which is working fine, and the other is the dead one and has 4Ah. Can I just connect the terminals on both batteries with alligator clips (+ to + and - to -) to boost the dead one, and then use the wall charger to bring it up to 40v? Another question: Will either the Ryobi OP403 (with USB) or the OP404 charger revive the dead battery? Thanks.
Replied to your email, thanks Armen.
What is different from connecting to the CL1 negative and negative battery terminal ?
Thats what I'm wondering
Great video! I have an older 40v battery like this one and all the other ryobi 40v battery rehab videos I've seen show the RST (reset) procedure that the newer batteries have. My pack voltage is 42.3... turns out my charger may be the problem, first it was indicating a defective battery and not charging, now the indicator doesn't light up at all.
After boosting and verified that the older style battery is charging . Can you now use the newer style charger with out exception?
Once boosting the battery, you can use any ryobi 40v battery charger again(new or old), you just have to get the battery's voltage up to at least 35volts..
how about the new design batteries, do you have a fix for them? mine is a newer one. hope you got a fix. thank you
So when you connect the 12 V Power Supply to the battery there is a circuit board to boost the voltage to 40 V. Where do you get this board and how is it adjustable as it is apparently down stream of the adapter / inverter.
Parts list in the description. It goes from 12 volts to 40 volts, at least mines does.
I have a newer version of the 40 v battery with the board 280487 rev Q and I can't find the positive and negative points? Any suggestions? Thank you!
Is it required to do the hole in the case and close the case before charging or is it possible to just charge it with the case open?
No need to leave the wire attached or to drill the hole. Just boost the battery, test it out, if it works disconnect the wire and use the battery as normal
@@Jasonoid is it possible to just hook the both the positive and clips up to the positive and negative terminals on the battery? Instead of the negative to the cl-one terminal and the positive to the positive terminal?
Thanks in advance if you get the chance to reply
@@NatanLemmer that didn't work when I tried it, but no harm in trying.
Stupid Question but Can I run a wire from the negative post on my 40 volt charger to the CL1 negative and then run positive to positive on both dead battery and charger. Would my dead 40 Volt Battery blow up or catch fire because of to much power coming from charger connected to wall outlet? Probably why you use a boost converter. From your description, you mention a strong current might damage cells. Just curious!
That might be worth trying, just try it but have a way to disconnect it if you see issues. Let me know how it goes.
Jasonoid I have been inserting and removing a dead battery, in the charger, until green light comes on, hoping it is getting enough trickle. Got it up to 20 but seems to not go past that amount. Gonna try again tomorrow. If that doesn’t work, maybe I can get enough courage to try CL 1 to battery charger. I will get my son to stand by to disconnect charger from outlet. If these methods fail, I will order the items listed in your description. Thanks for answering me!
@@martycann1 Just FYI, you probably don't need the wire exposed off the CL1 point because every single battery I have fixed hasn't required the fix again. As long as you are careful to not over discharge them again. Good luck!
Jasonoid This battery has been discharged a long time. It still has a 20 volt charge according to my tester so I figure I need to get it over 30 or so.
I have a couple of these that fully charge but stop working with 2 lights still showing. Half charged. Any fix?
The converter isn't available anymore! Which one should I buy now?
I’ve ended up with two chargers for these batteries. Can’t I take one of the power cords and clip the factory end off and add some gator clips and do the same thing as your charger set up was doing?
Possibly, but the safest option is using a boost converter with constant current.
can you solder the cl1 to the negative terminal to bypass the circuit board and allow the Ryobi charger to charge the battery even if voltage is low?
You might not want to do that because then you are bypassing the low voltage cut off. I have only had to do this once to each battery so I would just recommend opening the case, connecting to the CL1 point, then removing the wire and putting it all back together. Thanks for watching!
Nice. Can the booster be used in place of the charger all together? Been charging mine by charging RV battery with solar panels, then using charger through an inverter. (Cutting grass with just solar charged batteries about 3 years now.) Wasting a lot of power converting DC to AC then back to DC. Wasn't an issue before. Trying to do a little too much with this 3amp 14.5v system.
Lithium ion batteries charge a very specific way (Constant Current / Constant Voltage methods). This booster is only to help the charger recognize the battery. Once it's back to normal voltage please continue to use the proper charger. Yeah, it's lame they don't offer a DC to DC charger haha
@@Jasonoid thank you. This has been my conundrum. The solar is like a 3 amp trickle charger for the RV batteries, the RV batteries are like a capacitor that keeps the voltage (relatively) consistent while running the pool pump or whatever. The inverter acknowledges the fact that the battery will be 13.8-10.5 and adjusts the output. Just wish I could use the charge regulator with a DC-DC booster to waste less power.
Can u use a car charger rated at 2 amps
@@haroldlamble5163 a car battery charger only puts out 12 volts, this battery needs at least 30 volts to get the battery up to where the battery will charge on the Ryobi charger again.
@@Jasonoid thank you.
I've done this fix before like a year ago from the video that's already out that's just a video of a diagram pic basically (I'm assuming that's where you got this idea from by the method you used) and it worked for the summer but then stopped. After taking it apart again I found a few bad cells which I replaced. (Most likely because they're no longer being balanced during the jumping up the voltage) Now I'm "pretty certain" the board is ok but no way to test other than a volt meter and it appears that all my volt readings from various points seem to be right. After charging I get 43 volts from the same ground point you used to the same positive of the connector lead but when going across the main neg and pos that connects to my blower or any tool I only get 16.4 volts. So my question to you is: What reading do you get going across the 2 main external connector leads? Do you get your 40+ volts there too? I would think so but I wasn't sure if it works in a wierd way because of the circuit board and only delivers the 40v when plugged in to a tool and is being used kinda like how you can't just charge the battery by hooking the main connect pos and neg.
I only recommend 'boosting' the batteries one time to get the battery voltage above 33 volts, then the normal charger should be used each time after to charge and balance the individual batteries. I have been able to do this on all my batteries (I have 8 of them). Also, just be save in the future and not run the battery all the way down on your tool.
Avoiding the factory charger and using the boost converter it will overcharge some cells and under charge others. I don't have a battery with me at work so I can't verify what a good battery voltage shows at the main power terminals.
@@Jasonoid Yea I know, I bought like 6 for $80 bucks on EBay and it was a gamble on what was wrong between salted/corroded boards, bad cells, or as simple as just needing a jump. And after trial an error and actually getting 3 of 6 working 2 by jumping and one by swapping the circuit board (easy BTW but only if you have a GOOD solder sucker) I've messed the charger up to where I had to bridge a connection on the circuit board in that POS too so it doesn't give errors anymore, like at all. Just constantly puts outs 43.5 volts. Which is fine as long as you use a meter when charging and keep a close eye on it and manually balance your cells out. But after all this B.S. and reengineering along with quite a bit if use out of them last year....its finally came to an end so I was just wondering what someone with a good battery had a reading of before I finally give in and just purchase something besides Ryobi. LOL I guess later when you get home if you have 30 seconds to throw a meter on those 2 connect leads and let me know the result that would be pretty stellar. Thanks again for your reply brotha.
Justin
Jasonoid I seem to have the same problem that Norman Randolph
has. I have a Ryobi OP4026 showing fully charged in the charger and on the attached LED meter but powers tools for only a second. It's showing 37.5v on the "-" lead, but 86.5v on the T1 lead. The circuit board looks clean. The battery was great prior to some cold and rain. The leaf blower definitely got soaked in the rain and battery might have gotten a few rain drops on it too. Any ideas?
I actually had one battery do the same thing. After looking at everything and attempting to fix it, I figured something in the circuit board had burnt out, probably due to a short circuit. The board is dual sided so it's almost impossible to inspect both sides. Out of 8 batteries I have recovered, I only had 1 fail to this issue so I don't think its very common.
Where do you get the special bit that takes his screws out of the Ryobi battery it has a pain in the middle of that star-shaped screw
harbor freight
So I picked up the charger parts you listed in the description. Max output I can get from these is 36.8vdc. Do you think that will be enough to make the charge?
you just need to get the battery to about 30 volts, then plug it into the Ryobi charger to do the rest of the charging safety. The part you bought is just to boost the voltage up so the Ryobi charger will see it again as being a good battery.
Set everything up as you have it here. Putting my alligator clip onto the positive with converter off there was a small spark from the clip to the pos terminal.
@@northeasternguy1010 theres lots of power in these batteries. Probably just a rush of power charging the capacitors on the boost converter.
Can you use a 12v car trickle charger? Prob not if the charger doesnt sense a 12v battery
You can try it, probably wouldn't work. Always worth a try to save a few bucks and not have to buy another product.
I have a few 40v that charge fine but won’t hold that charge that long, would this method help or fix that issue? Also I only have access to 24 and 48v DC, will either of these work or help? Thanks for your help
The cells inside the battery have lost their capacity. It happens over time of if the batteries sit at a low voltage to long. There isn't much to fix the batteries that wont hold a charge very long. A 48 volt DC charger would probably work, just don't let it sit to long, you only want to boost the battery up to a voltage where the charger will recognize it again.
My older style battery reads 19.3V at the normal pos/neg connections but 38.5V at the CL1- and pos pin. Battery wont charge any further and reads green on charger but wont run any tools. Is it actually charged but a an issue with the negative pin or board?
Sometimes the circuit board gets damaged from water or gets corroded overtime in a humid environment. I have seen some with over-current issues and the circuit board looks burned in some places. Do you see any of that on your circuit board? It would probably mean you have a different issue on your battery and it might be toast. If you purchased Amazon products to fix your battery you can always return them.
I bought one of these old Ryobi 40v OP4026 batteries, charger, and a couple weedeaters at a yardsale. I planned on harvesting the motors for an awesome very large 3d printed tank chassis I made. When I put the battery on charge, it charged up all the way then gave me the red/green flashing lights. It wont work in the weedeaters and wont work when hooking the motors directly to the battery terminals. On a multimeter, it gives about 35v but slowly drops. Is there any fix for this issue?
The circuit board is probably fried. Some people try some crazy things with these batteries like leaving them out in the rain. Open it up and inspect it for damage.
Not sure what I am doing wrong. Soldered a wire up just like you did. Testing with my multimeter shows it at 18V or so, between the positive tab and the new negative wire. When I hook up the boost converter to a pretty beefy 12v 1A power supply with built in circuit breaker, the multimeter shows output of boost converter at 35V, which is what I set it to with the little screw. When I connect that to the battery it instantly trips the breaker. I see that the charger for Ryobi puts out like 2A, so I figured I needed a more powerful supply, so when I use a 19V 6.5A power supply, the boost converter again shows 35V, but it instantly trips that breaker too when connected to the battery. No shorts, I am sure, since the multimeter connected to the battery shows a steady voltage, as expected. Any ideas?
Can you try taking out the circuit breaker, or bypassing it somehow? What amount of amperage is the circuit breaker designed to handle?
@@Jasonoid On the first supply, it turns out it was 1 AMP (even though it was a really beefy 12V power supply). On the second supply, it was 19V at 6 amps. The step-up converter is rated for 9A in, and 6A out, so I didn't want to push it. And yes, I am sure there's no short circuit, if I use my multimeter on the battery's positive terminal and the new negative wire, it shows an expected DC voltage of around 18 or so.
Going to try your setup, but since I don't know much and have been doing a little research, isn't the amperage of the battery important? If your stepup only goes to 9 amps, and your battery is a 6 amps, then don't you need a max of 16 amps on your input voltage to get to 32 volts if your input voltage is only 12? Or does the input amperage not matter as long as it's above the minimum? 32VX16A=192 watts
When charging the battery, the level of amperage just determines how long it will take to charge the battery. 1 amp charge rate will take much longer than a 10 amp charge rate. The process in the video is here to just boost the battery voltage high enough to get the stock charger to recognize the battery again.
Can I ask why you dont trickle charge it with the top off then remove the wire and put the top on after you've reached the desired voltage?
You can do that, when I made the video I didn't have experience to know if the battery would stay above the 30 volts after many cycles. It seems to only need the charge once as long as you don't over discharge the battery again.
Thanks
Great video by the way
@Jasonoid
Did everything exactly and used similar 12v adaptor at 1.5 Amp.
After Half a day my Multimeter reading stuck at 27.2 volts.
its not charging up anymore. What do you think is the problem? Thanks!
Did you try it back on the charger, that's pretty close to the normal charging voltage?
@@Jasonoid
Yes, I did that still blinking red and green.
@@Jasonoid
By the way I followed your link and bought that voltage booster.
@@scrambler008 I'm guessing the 1.5amp adapter isn't strong enough to get the voltage past where it's at or it's going to take a long time. You got anything stronger laying around? How high is the buck converter turned up.
So I worked this same process and I was able to bring a battery up to 35V but my charger still shows defective. It’s the slide on version that doesn’t have a USB port. I’m wondering if I should get a larger base charger to see if maybe my charger is defective.
I too charged my defective battery to 35.5 volts and the charger still shows a defective battery. Any more Ideas?
My board does not look like this one, so I assume I must have the newer version? How do you repair of the newer one?
Check through the comments I think someone posted a way to do a new board.
Tried this on a battery that had dropped TOO low in voltage - ~1.6 V, so I it was too low to work. I was only able to bring it up to 8.7 V with your mod. But I have another battery with a different problem. It shows to have fully charged on the charger and shows fully charged when you press the Charge State button on the battery. But when you attach it to something like say a blower, it runs for ~2 seconds then quits. When you pull the trigger on the blower again; same thing - ~2 seconds of running then it quits. Any suggestions????
I have done this process on 5 batteries successfully, I had one battery around 1.7 volts and I was able to get it to charge up to 35 volts for the charger to recognize it. I would recommend making sure your variable voltage on the boost converter is set all the way up to 40 volts. It will take awhile but it should boost it eventually. When the batteries are that low, they have been damaged and have lost some total capacity. The battery I fixed that was that low lasts a little less than the other ones that had higher voltages.
As for the second battery, it sounds like as it's trying to pull amps through it shuts off. As you take it apart, do you see any burnt markings on the circuit board? I bet the board may be going bad. If it's under warranty you can get a replacement for free.
@@Jasonoid Thanks for the reply.
Yes, the step-up converter is up to 40V. It's been charging for 3 days now - still charging as I write this. Are there charging plateaus? Should I be patient with it a bit longer?
No, I called Ryobi and mine are past the 3-year warranty.
On the one that shuts down, I did see some signs of high heat on the circuit board. I didn't find a method of removing the board - maybe swapping it with the board from the low battery pack. Any suggestions on how to safely do that?
Norm
@@normanrandolph134 I have dismantled these boards and battery packs. You have to do a lot of damage to get it apart. You might be better off buying another used battery.
As for the one that isn't charging past 1.6 volts, mine only took 30 minutes to get up to 30volts, 3 days has me worried. Where are your charging leads connected?
@@Jasonoid Correction: The one that is shutting down does NOT have the tell-tale heat marks. It's the one that's not taking the charge well that has those signs. Here's a couple of pictures of the one that's shutting down. It doesn't have any signs of overheating. < 1drv.ms/f/s!AuAvg0DMohwAhNsIk4kZWulE2z6XCA > . I took several snaps trying to avoid the shadow that my hand was casting.
Forgot to mention that the positive lead from the step-up converter is attached to the "+" blade and the "-" lead is attached to the new pigtail sticking out of the case.
@@normanrandolph134 I'm guessing the charging voltage is reversed or the charging leads are not hooked up correctly. Make sure positive coming off your boost converter is not backwards. The writing is very small and that may be the issue.
Once you bring the charge up, can't you resume charging in the oem charger?
That's what I recommend for safer charging.
I gather a trickle charger for a motorbike battery would not work in this application you would need the converter?
Anything that puts out 35 volts or more
Why not leave the battery assembled and place clip leads on positive and negative posts to charge?
Most people have not had luck with that method, the readouts don't give the proper voltage. You have to connect to the CL-1 connection within the battery. It only takes 2 or 3 minutes to open the case up. Totally worth the time spent.
@@Jasonoid Thanks. I'll open the battery.
The circuit board inside the battery disconnects that lead when the battery voltage Falls below critical. Opening up the battery allows you to bypass that disconnect point in the circuit board.
Hello,thank you very much for the video. I bought on ebay from the USA Ryobi 40 vlt, the package went 2 months. The battery is discharged to 34 volts. What current amps need to be charged and up to how many volts that the charger would work with the battery? thank.
I also want to clarify the input of the converter-module you are supplying 20 volts, output-35 volts? sorry i don't know english very well
@@mmnasyrov My boost converter runs off 12 volts and boosts to 40volts. I have it set at 38 volts to be safe, only charges at 1 amp. Make sure you get the right charger in the long run, this 'boost' method is only to raise the voltage of the battery.
@@Jasonoid thank you !
@@Jasonoid Hi and thank you for the video. I have a handful of 12v adapters laying around but not sure if they produce 5A. Based on this comment I would think that is okay but will just take longer. Do you concur?
@@joshtaylor9675 go ahead and give it a shot, saving money is great!
Thanks a ton, this helped me save two batteries!
amazon no longer has in stock. is there another converter and power adapter you recommend?
I just refreshed the link in the video description to sometime similar. Please refresh the video and check again.
I have the model OP40401, will this work in this model?
@jasonoid, so I tried this but my 35V boost converter won't go past 24 volts when charging. Then it goes down to 19V after a few minutes... does this mean the 40V battery is defective?
Where do you have it connected? How many amps is your charger?
12v, 5amp charger. The boost converter goes up to 35.9 V plugged in alone but then tanks to 20 V once i hook it up to the battery. After 30 minutes, it goes to 18 V. Then I test the batt in the charger and get defective lights.
@@samtamulevich8768 there must be something wrong with your BMS control board in the battery. This process wont fix all the issues with these batteries, it just helps if they have been over discharged. I'm sorry it didn't work. Hopefully you can return your purchased components to Amazon without an issue.
@@Jasonoid Thanks, I'm gonna keep everything because I think they're useful. I ended up buying a 6mAh 40V 3rd party replacement, which seems fine so far.
also on new step up converter, there are 2 buttons. Do i have push for a certain setting?
I haven't tried the new converter. It may come with instructions. The Amazon seller or product page will have the best info on it. See the product comments and reviews for all details.
@@Jasonoid will this one work? www.amazon.com/dp/B07FX1JCQ2/?coliid=I2Q238LLN245HG&colid=1PRZH12VQ30OD&psc=1
@@Jasonoid will this one work? www.amazon.com/dp/B07FX1JCQ2/?coliid=I2Q238LLN245HG&colid=1PRZH12VQ30OD&psc=1
I tried this and it jumped up almost immediately, but the DC boost convertor started smoking so I unplugged it. Unsure why I can't do it. Could be the wire is not correct gauge maybe? Not sure how to adjust the convertor
Maybe you had the polarity reversed? Like negative was where the positive was supposed to go? That might be the issue.
Is there some reason you can't charge it with the cover off and without soldering the wire in place?
You have to bypass the control board, you can use an alligator clip instead of soldering. Once completing the fix, if you don't take the battery all the way down again to 0, you won't need to do the mod again.
Will this work with a benchtop power supply set to the same 40v 3.5a settings?
Should work great, if you already have one laying around, give it a shot. I would set the voltage lower and then raise it up over time. Especially at that high amperage. Don't you use it long term, just use it to get the voltage high enough for the stock charger to recognize the battery.
@@Jasonoid Thanks!
Any reason you can't just use a 12V battery charger with the step up voltage converter?
The battery charger probably wont sense the correct battery and might give an error or something, but I guess it's always worth trying. Let us know how it goes!
Mine shows 2 bars charged. I see 18v between plus and minus terminals. 37v between T1 and plus terminals suggesting cells are all charged up. I'll open it up and take a peek inside. Edit: a bit of water damage near cell one which dropped to 2.7v all others at 3.8v. think ic protection kicked in and won't switch GND line MOSFET. Cell 1 charged to match others but MOSFET still not switching. There is a RST pin at 3.3v. should I gnd that pin momentarily? Edit. Something weird just happened. Probing terminals of T to see what resistance... Lights at front panel flashed...and now it seems all is good. 38v on terminals as it should be. Wow
Like I said where do I buy that special tip that take some screws out because it has a pain in the middle of the Starship and I can't find that tip nowhere where do I buy it please
I have my tool kit I used in the video description. It has the special security torx bit I used to open it up. Pretty cheap and comes in handy for ALL small electronics
Where did you get that red connector board
My battery reads 41V at Cl1 and the + spade. But the + spade and the - spade reads 17.5V. When the battery is plugged into the charger the charger shows all green LEDs lit. When the battery is plugged into the power head, the attachment does nothing. What do you think is the problem? Bad battery motherboard?
Out of the 7 batteries I have on hand, I have one battery that does the same thing as you mention. I wish It was still in warranty. I think the circuit board is defective and probably had a short circuit in it somewhere. It won't power my devices but it is fully charged. Im thinking it's a safety mechanism built in the board to prevent a fire or incorrect charging because something failed internally. These batteries have a lot of power in them and are a fire hazard if something goes wrong inside.
@@Jasonoid thanks for the quick reply. Sadly, I'm probably going to trash it because Ryobi won't replace it because It was mfgr'd more that 3 years ago and I can't find the receipt.
@@billglock2587 If you are confident about disassembling the battery pack. (I have done it before, it doesn't take long) You can reuse the 20 18650 high discharge batteries inside. They work really well for LED flashlights. You could possibly re-coup some of the cost for a new battery by selling them. Just an idea.
Will this work for an OP40401? My battery starts to charge for a second or 2 then stops with a constant green light on charger.
Probably not, I haven't tried it on that battery before.
I did this method but my battery voltage was too low and can only charge up to 20.60 volts. My booster is set to maximum which for some reason only goes to 37.67
You might be charging the wrong terminals. 20volts seems about half the battery so many thats where you are hitting an issue. What type of power adapter do you have plugged into the booster? A 12 volt adapter with how many amps?
Might be that mosfet.on the battery pack I am repairing one now. Mine only read 20 volts or so the mosfet connects the other side of the battery assembly. I will post my results when the parts come in next week or so.
@@ronb6182 Did you solve your problem by changing the mosfet? I working with a battery right now also showing 20.5V from negative to positive but every single cell shows 4.2V. I'm also thinking of a failed mosfet.
@@everhill no the part was too large and I really don't think it's the right part. There are ways to charge all the batteries with separate chargers. But to me it's cheaper to buy the leaf blower and get a 4 amp hour battery. I already have the string trimmer and I'm using that battery for my mower. Two batteries are enough to do my yard when the grass is not too high. Otherwise I use gasoline mower. My mower quits when the grass and I have to wait until it resets at least one minute or two.
i wanna take one of these and usa a yamaha 12v RECTIFIER and supplement my battery on my atv for the winch from time to time and to use it as a jumper pack to start cars and tractors.. i cant figure out why this wouldn't work
The battery has a built in 40amp fuse so anything over 40amps and the battery will cut out.
Any reason to not just clamp to the negative post opposite of the positive you used?
You have to bypass the circuit board, it shuts down the positive terminal for safety once the battery drops to low voltage
@@Jasonoid damn welp time to go dig out my old iron
Ok bro...your video helped...got my battery up to 40 but the charger still reads defective...can it be the charger itself that is defective...?
Does it run fine in the tool since charging it manually? It could be the charger that's broken. Sometimes my charger needs to be unplugged for 10 minutes and then plugged back in and it works.... No joke!
I have the same problem. One bad battery and I tried the putting the battery on and off again method and now I have 2 chargers that stay in red and green despite the fact there is no battery on them. Even putting one of my good batteries on doesn't work. Any ideas??
@@TheTRoger19 There seems to be a processor on the charger. Unplugging the charger for 3 minutes letting it completely power down, then plugging it in and trying again seems to help. These batteries also have a circuit board inside them that has many electrical components that can fail. I think many of these batteries fail without heavy use. Ryobi certainly could make them better.
@@Jasonoid thanks for the quick reply. I the two chargers I have were both left unplugged for a week then I tried again. Still flash red/green without the battery in them. I may ione them up and see if there are any visible issues. Otherwise it seems like putting the sleep mode battery on the charger killed my charger too, which doesn't make much sense
@@TheTRoger19 if you have the newer style pcb, there is a reset "button". On the edge of the pcb, on the side with the negative terminal, about half way between the terminal and the end of the pcb, there are 2 pins next to each other marked "rst". Jump them and the safety lock resets. As long as the cell voltage is high enough for the charger, it will charge.
do you really need to put the case back together to charge up the battery, couldnt you leave it open untill it charges then close it withouth the wire
Yeah, that would work. I have not needed to recharge these batteries since getting them boosted up. Just don't let them discharge below 33 volts and you won't have the issue again.
Is there an easier way to raise the voltage?
This is confusing and I have to buy many things.
I don't have soddering equipment either.
To do all that work and find that it wasn't the reason is was defective would be soul crushing
You could buy another battery for $120....or buy a small amount of parts for under $20 to fix your battery.
I bought the step up converter in you link. After I set it to 35 volts and hooked to battery per your instructions the booster drops to about 15 volts. Any ideas why this is happening.
Does the voltage go above 15 volts with time?
Jasonoid it doesn’t seem too.
Jasonoid no it doesn’t seem to.
@@kenparrish3176 these seem to have pretty specific instructions. Did you follow what the manufacturer said? Some people have had issues but most have been able to get their batteries up and working. If it's not working just apply for a refund and get a new one. Sorry for the hassle!
Jasonoid no hassle I appreciated the video. I can send them back to amazon.