Targeted Shell Heat Molding
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- Опубликовано: 9 июл 2024
- In this Bootorial I show you another heat molding technique I love to use when looking to remold just a single point of a ski boot.
The great thing about being specific and targeted is it will not affect the rest of your fit in the ski boot like full shell molding will. If your boots fit great except for one trouble spot. This is the way you can fix it and keep your fit precise.
This tutorial video shows you the process to do this in a controlled manner and get a great result.
Get all the parts you need to make your own ski boots fit better. patriotfootbeds.com
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Craig Hemsley
Master Boot Fitter
Founder of Patriot Footbeds
Ski Shop - Jindabyne Sports
Facebook:
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I've been watching your videos for many years now & your delivery of information is by far the best.
Thank you !!
Thanks Mark!
I have a bunion on one foot. I'm trying this tomorrow! I hope it will give me some much needed relief. I love the footbed and liner sleeves. Huge difference!
Great video! Had major issues with my new boots last season. So much that I purchased new ones half way in the season. The newest boots still gave me some issues, but I’m confident I ‘ll fix them with this tutorial.
Hi Craig, I just gave my Tecnica Cochise CAS the "Fit Kit" treatment along with your footbeds and I am totally stoked with the result. Can't wait to go and ski. ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Awesome! I hope they feel great. :) Enjoy the turns
Thanks for your bootorials, I’ve watched them all.
I wonder if this will work for the older Fischer RC4 Podium that is marketed as not vacuum moldable. I do a lot of my own work and punching and there's a deal I can't resist.
Great video Craig. I think you should do a what's in my quiver video and talk about your boots and why you use them. Maybe give a bit of a deep dive into what you did to get them ready. Kind of like the video from a few years ago with the boots you set up for yourself.
Great idea!
Can you do this to a Lange shadow shell?
Great tip! Seems a lot more easier to do than punching.
Yeah is for sure a lot easier to get a good result.
It wont expand as far as a punch, but this process also prevents ovepunching.
Totally true
"Can I heat the Salomon S/Pro with Boa System ? Which temperature?
Neat
Hey, great Video. Do you think it is possible to heat the shoe right where the buckle is? I just have a small spot on top of my foot that hurts and it is right under the buckle. You think the buckle will get damaged or have you done this before in these spots?
Depends on what part of the buckle you are talking. I would usually look to liner customisation first.
i tossed my salomans in the oven last week and hot daaaaamn do they ever feel good now.
Can you do this with any kind of plastic? My boot has no any kind of heat molding capabilities. I saw two material markings inside, PP on the cuff and PU on some kind of entry flap where the cuff meets the lower shell. Subbed and liked btw, great content!
Wont be effective on every boot. Due to plastic memory, some boots will retract especially with this molding process which does not apply much pressure. WIthout being a moldable boot, I would suggest first target the liner and if that doesn't help you may need to get them punched.
Do people need to worry about stretching the hole the buckle is in or is that not typically an issue? Reason i ask is because i stretched a hole out accidentally on some rossis while applying dumb stickers to a boot years ago using a hair dryer. Also tightened the hell out of the boot right afterwards. But when i did this method on my new boots to custom heat mold the toe and bunion area i was too scared to tighten the latches and as a result was not able to get quite as much stretch as i had hoped.
Not usually a problem with the buckle holes. Of course every situation is different, but that is not an area you are usually looking to mold with this process. You could potentially just swap out the Tnut and screw that is securing the buckle. Were you more concerned with it opening up and letting water in, or did it warp how the buckle sat?
Also different plastics will react differently to heating, which is why I recommend people who don't have bootfitting experience only do something like this for boots that are built for shell heat molding or know they are a good PU plastic.
@@PatriotFootbeds on the boot i damaged rossignol alltrack pro 100 from 2017ish i ended up having to swap the t nut for a barbed nut deal and move the latch into a new hole i drilled as i was already on the tightest setting (this was the ankle buckle). It pulled 5mm or more and was closer to the next loser hole option than where it should have been. On my new rossignol alltrack elete 130 which i switched to a size down, i noticed that even with the heat gun on the bunion area only it still got the front toe latch area quite hot. Not quite into that sweetspot for molding but hot. Maybe since my shell isnt technically "heat moldable" the plastic behaves differently?
Since the toe latches are less important for performance i guess my main concern would be letting water in and in general "damaging" the boot
Craig, how are you. My wife (164cm/50kg) has a very narrow tiny foot (22 mondo/22cm) with a decent high arch especially on the right more than the left. She has Lange RS100LV in a 22.5. Her boots feet her well but she has always had pressure on the top of her instep due to her high arches. In the past on her older Dalbello Storms, ESS cut away the inner in the instep pressure areas however that left only a thin layer of foam to protect the instep. Both her lower toes buckles are always as loose as she can have them as she doesn't need any pressure in this area. Just want your expertise, is it worth using the targetted heat mold of the shell on the instep using pads on her feet in the critical pressure spots to lift the height of the boot in this area.
Hey, yeah going great!
You could definitely try this as a first option to see if you can gain improvement. The instep area tends to not mold as easy compared to creating contour in other areas of the boot, simply due to plastic forces fighting against you.
Usually with the Lange boots, I would also look to modify the liner, (like what ESS had done in the past) By cutting a window into that tongue, it can really help a lot!
But you can replace any foam removed with a softer and more cushioned foam and seal it up again after. (search Sidas ICP kit)
That will definitely be the most effective and professional finish.
Or you could look to an Intuition liner as an aftermarket choice that can relief this instep pressure.
@@PatriotFootbeds Craig, thanks for the fast reply and your expertise. I'm fairly good on and have all the tools to do this job. As this area has the shell split at this point, I feel I only have to heat mold and lift the flaps either side of the R&L overlap reshaping the shell to a better elevated position when buckled back up.
Oh… wow, so the traditional way of manipulating the boot shell. Super revolutionary, way to go.😂