Did this to my Salomons. Transformed them. No ankle pain, no arch pain anymore. Put them on in the morning, didn't need to adjust them all day. Didn't even undo them for lunch! Big thank you mate!
I did this to my Atomic boots. Very easy to do. I think the most critical info that this video gave me was the temperature and the amount of time needed. But beyond that information, the video showed such confidence in how easy it is to do it in your own oven that it gave me confidence to pull the trigger and do it myself. It came out great! Thanks for such a great video.
Mate, this was *perfect* instruction. Right down to the temps for each brand. Did this with my new qst 120s and worked a treat. Looking forward to your next vid.
Hehe, great stuff, thank you! Just did my Atomics. Had to repeat the first one beacuse I put too thin a pad. In the end everything worked like magic. Sunday 10th Dec will start the real test on the snow!
Nailed it, nice job. Love the flash of adding back the footbed, but not sure if you said please remove especially if a custom bed before heating. And the f-bomb was awsome.
Dude, just done a pair of Head boots i bought second hand but in really great condition, and what a difference. I can easily get them on and so much better than before. Thanks for the great video. ;-)
Hi Craig’s, thanx for the great vid. Can’t wait to put mine in the oven and fit them to my feet.... but would you know the heating temp for my Nordica Pro Machine 110. The manufacturer uses IR heating and sells a special tool for it and therefor mentioned no temperature... thanx and regards Pat
Yeah exactly right with the Nordica's. they dont specify a temp as they have designed them to be stretched out with their Infrared and vacuum system. I would recommend staying on the cautious side in regards to temperature.
Do you really want to do the shells and liners at the same time with spacers inside of the liner? My thinking is that you want to adjust the shell as much as possible first, meaning spacers could be put on the outside of the liner to really push on that area of the shell, but without packing in the liner. Then after the shell is done, you take the spacers off, let the liner fill in that new area created and then you mold them, creating a more uniform thickness. Thoughts? What am I missing?
Hey Brandon, So it depends on what you are trying to achieve. I can understand your thinking to this approach, but what is the goal? If you want the mold to be precise, you simply wouldn't use any spacers. If you are trying to really expand the amount of space due to excessive pressure, they will help get the extra needed.
@@PatriotFootbeds Thank you very much for the reply. For the record, I have no idea what I'm talking about, just thinking about the physics and since you had the best video I'm asking you :P. Lets take the spacers out of the equation for now as my main question is about simultaneously baking the liner and the shell vs separately. When you put your foot in the boot and have a tight spot, the shell is compressing the liner against your foot, harder than it is in other places. Ideally, I'm thinking that if you don't bake the liner when you bake the shell, that the liner (and your foot) will be applying pressure in that tight spot to stretch the shell, which will make room to allow the liner to expand back to a more uniform thickness in that tight spot. You can then bake the liner to take out the remaining pressure that is still there but was not high enough to deform the shell any further. I'm just thinking that if you bake the liner at the same time, the amount of pressure exerted by the liner is reduced since it is now looking to deform in as much as it is to deform the shell out. Love your videos. In the market for new boots so I've probably watched half a dozen of them more than once.
@@MrBrrrdog I thought exactly the same as you! And I totally agree with you: if you heat mold the liner at the same time, the vast part of desirable deformation will be taken by less resistive material, which is the liner. As a result you will deform your liner up to it limit in the most problematic zone, whereas the shell will receive the minimal shape change. It is definitely better to have the opposite: to achieve the maximum shape change by the shell, and let the liner futher pack up in this area during the time. And, yes, it is probably the best tutorial overall, because it mentions the details such as different brands materials requirements. Well done!
for a spot that you want to relieve pressure on, could you just use a heat gun on that spot along with an infrared heat thermometer, while all buckled up?
If using a heat gun, you will usually want a way to manually stretch the boot. The molding is really good at shaping contour and gaining width expansion. Not so great for directly targeting single spots beyond packing that part of the foot with foam.
Great tutorial...I need some room over my instep of Atomic Hawx Ultra XTD. Both foot and instep measure 28cm. If I pad out the instep, bake and buckle tight;y...will that stretch the midfoot? Thanks, Kev
Kevin Nini hey Kev, yeah that is the best method, but you shouldn’t look to buckle tighter than normal, just pad the area, get a good mould and regular tension should work well!. 👍
Cheers Tom, For the C.A.S it is not 'technically' heat moldable. The dimples you see are for easier direct heating and gauging stretches and grinds. With that said, you will get a bit out of it with a bake. I would say stick to 100*C at about 8 mins would be safe to give a bit of a mold.
Great video, that MehGuyVah was great! :D I wanted to ask... can you do it also with boots made out of "non-heat-molding" plastic like Scarpa Maestrale? Thank you mate :)
Thanks Lukas! Unfortunately with touring boots that are made with Polyamide plastics, they don't respond well to this heat holding process and you risk melting them. So it is only for the certain types of PU boots that are made specifically for this process. Cheers!
Great video! Thanks for the updated time for the Salomon Custom Shell HD...I also saw that they have reduced their molding time to from 5 minutes to 3 minutes as well.
What do you think about using a 2x4(or such) under the front of the boot to settle the heal into the pocket. Some liners recommend when fitting the liner.
@@rickden8362 This is a standard liner and doesnt mold in the heel area like an intuition does. It is not that drastic of an effect for 90% if liners. Similar as to when you may use toecaps vs just regualar molding.
Hi. I've got Tecnica Mach1 130HV that I need to widen on a long stretch, up to my posterior tarsals. I haven't skied in them yet, but I'm certain that I would be in lots of pain after mere minutes, especially in my right foot. Do you think it would make sense to try to shell mould them, using pads to create extra space? I am not sure if typical punching will create extra width at such large area? I have not yet tried to punche them as I would need to drive to a different town to do that, unfortunately. I'm worried about heating the carbon composite link; maybe I could remove it and the cuff and only heat up the bottom part?
Hey, cool tutorial. I have a pair Full Tilt First Chair 8 (2019) and damn it, I can't find what temperature and for how I have to toast them. Nowhere on internets. Perhaps you have experience with them? Would appreciate if could share an opinion.
So if I get heel pain, but not from heel lift, but from having a wide heel, can I assume I could use the tongue liner around my heel to stretch the liner more?
Hey man, thanks for the tutorial. Can you give any information about Rossignol boots. I just got the Hero 130 for the 2015 season (or maybe 2016, not quite sure) and I want to get some release over the arch of the foot. I would like to do this with heat molding rather than removing the footbed. If you have any info about temp and baking time, I would be very grateful if you share it.
Thanks PNW moto! So the Lange's aren't technically a 'foldable' boot. But you should be able to get a bit of extra shaping to them if you are very vigilant and go around 80-100C for 8-10mins. definitely with liners separately.
I have molded my liners to where I want them. Would it be okay to heat up the shell without heating the liner? Full Tilt Descendant 120 27.5 size Evolution shell and Pro Intuition liner.
Great tutorial !! Do you know if Dalbello Lupo Ax 115 shell is mouldable ? On the liner I have the My Fit label but I'm not sure about the shell. On Dalbello site in their description they mention only the liner there isn't any information about the shell. If the label is there on the liner it means that also the shell is mouldable ? Thank you.
Yes you should be all good to go on the Lupo AX. The liner is an EVA so super moldable and anything you see with the MyFit label will also be plastic shell moldable. :) Cheers!
Hi Craig! Have you tried to mold Nordicas with Infrared plastic? In their manual they said you can mold it in oven, but no temperature reccomended:( I have problems with cuff aligment on my Nordica Striders, so i want to fix them a bit. I have both Atomic/Salomon oven and Fischer. Do you have any suggestions?)
Whoa this is so awesome! I am about to heat mold a set of Salomon X Pro 120 ski boots...before I begin I notice that they are a bit sloppy in the heel and that big toe on L foot is rubbing a bit more than I would like. Do you think that the heels will tighten up after heat molding the liners and shells? And for the big toe contact/pressure...considering cutting the toe off of another sock and putting it over my toes before doing the heat mold in order to maybe open up some space in liner/shell...would that be a good approach? Any better techniques/ideas for creating space around big toe on one boot? Thanks so much for posting these videos and sharing your expertise and also your tips and sense of humor as well!
Hi Stephen, Any molding that you do will only expand the space of the boots. Only the Fishcer Vaccuum system can do any tightening in during molding. But yes this should sort out the big toe pressure easily and padding this area will really help in creating the space for it. There are some other strategies to tighten the heel if it still feels loose after this process. Definitely start with a footbed with deep heel cup to secure any lateral movement. And then you can snug up around the heel and ankles if still needed. Cheers :)
Hi, I have a pair of Lange SX 90. I read It has a polyurethane monoinjected Shell. Do you think It will work? If so, please give temperature and time. Thanks!!
How about Dropkick Fulltilts? Have had my liners heat moulded & custom footbeds made, boots do fit as required but seem a little pinched, I know once I start skiing in them they should adjust, just a little paranoid as I’m heading out Xmas & ideally want a great fit.. I do have an excellent boot fitter but thought I might try a little DIY?. Love your work M8 👍
How old are your dropkicks? Although FT aren't promoting it much yet as a feature, their plastic on the new models will mold a little with this process. I would go for about 8 mins at 100 degrees should be safe enough to make it happen. Don't put your liners in though, shells only. Cheers
Great Video...you mean this can be done with a regular gas oven? as long as we are measuring the temperature not to heat greater than 100 degC for my Salomon Xpro.
Hi, very interesting...do you know if is the same process for atomic boots with mimic liner?? i saw a video where only mold the mimic...thanks!! (by the way...i searched in the comments, but didn't found the question...sorry if it is a reapeted one)
@@PatriotFootbeds Hi, thx for the reply! Do you know for how long and what temperature to use? Also is heating up the shell just a matter of "it doesn't do anything" or more a "the way the components are mixed it destroys their functionality"?
@@OfficialKoven I would recommend the rice in the sock method for the liners as it is a safe control of heat and will activate the foam well for molding. For the shell heat molding, correct, the plastic compound and dual core construction doesn't react well. It just retracts back to its original shape. You are much better off manually stretching this boot to get a decent result.
Do you have to take the rubber parts of the sole off the boot? Just grabbed Solomons 120 pro and about to do this but not sure about the rubber on the bottom of the foot..
Hi l have a question. I want to try my kids Range RS 70 SC for oven molding. Is this boots possible? If it is ok, what range of temperature Is better ? Thanks
Hey man, first question for this would be for what purpose? Are you trying to mold for a specific fix, or just want to try in general? Lange dont promote the dual core as a heat moldable platform, but it is a PU that generally reacts well to a bit of heat.
There is not much chance of it altering the cuff alignment. It would take a very extreme case to put enough pressure to affect it. If you set it up first then mold it, I think you will be spot on!
Great video, thanks! I have a question regarding boot selection, I have a small wide foot, high instep, narrow heel and small calf. I'm trying to decide between the Atomic Hawx Magna and the Atomic Hawx Prime. The Magna gives me the space I need in the forefoot and instep but is large in the calf and heel, buckles are as tight as they will go around the calf and thinking the liner will pack out and it may be too big eventually. The Prime is tight in the forefoot and instep but fits better in the calf and heel. Is it a better idea to go with the Prime and stretch the forefoot and instep with heating or go with the Magna and try to take up space in the calf and heel if it gets too big? Thanks!
Hi Loire, Yeah it will always be better to go for the smaller boot and expand it to fit. It is much easier and more successful to expand a boot, rather than try to take space away. :) Do make sure that instep height is in a good range with the shell fit. The liner can be manipulated in this area, but the shell is harder to increase at the instep. Cheers!
You forgot tecnica. They call theirs C.A.S. For the liner, the instruction manual says to put it in the oven for 8 minutes at 175 degrees then step into the shell. I don't know what the shell specifications are for heat molding.
Hi Ron, Cheers, but didnt forget, the CAS system is slightly different. You will find nearly all boot liners are moldable. The CAS liners are great and can easy be molded and shaped, even be attacked with a dremel. In regards to the shells, the CAS system is more tailored to manual punching instead of shell molding. The dimples allow easy and even heating with a heat gun and provide a guage for making the punches/ stretches as needed. Cheers :)
I would recommend skiing in them first and only do the holding when it is definitely need for pressure points. That way you maintain a close and precise fit and often the molding isn't required at all!
Nordica dont provide a temperature for this as they designed them for use with the infrared system. Heat molding would be possible, but staying on the conservative side would be the better approach.
Just a standard microwave will do, dont worry too much about the settings as it just radiates a low heat through the liner. The liners will always continue to pack in and mold as you ski, but the shells need this good hit of heat to take a good shape. 5 mins in any microwave should do the job for the rice. Good luck with it! :)
@@PatriotFootbeds I tried heating my Atomic Hawx 120s without having the pieces that you put over the bony places in your foot. I think it helped, but I still had a few spots that really hurt so ordered the kit last night!
Hi Dejan, Due to the density and wall thickness of that boot, they likely wont respond as well to shell molding. Head only recommend heat molding their Form Fit boot options.
I know this is from a few years ago but do you know how long Full Tilt boot shells need to be cooked for. I assume it would be a similar amount of time to K2 but I cant find the info anywhere.
Would this process work with last years Nordica Dobermann? (Black and Green no infra red areas?) I did heat fit the liners. I removed the factory insole for a bit extra room and used a 3/4 plantar fasciitis insole. It has a gel heal and pocket for shock and a small pillow under the fore foot. I still feel I need a little more arch support. Always like to tinker for a better fit and wonder if heating the shells is possible for this boot and key to a better over all fit?
Which model do you have? If it is the 110/120/130 gp and not the WC models, you might get a little bit out of it. It certainly wont mold the same as these examples in the video. The Infrared models will mold easier, but I chose not to include them in this tutorial as its not Nordicas "method" and to avoid confusion.
Thank you for the reply. It is the 130 gp. I think I only need a "little bit" as far as the shells go. Besides needing a bit more arch support my only complaint would be just a little too much compression. The last is 98mm and my foot measures 97mm. The fit is good now but I think this could really help to make it closer to perfect. Thanks for sharing your experience your videos are a great resource.
I have done it on my Scarpa boots. one spot was a bit too narrow on my left foot, I put on extra thick wool socks and put on the boot. I used a heat gun and concentrated the heat where I need a bit more extra width along side the outside of the boot. Eventually I felt it relax a bit, I felt the heat too. than let it cool while I kept it on my foot, weight on the boot. Fit perfectly after that with normal weight ski sock, even on long day backcountry tours. before you try this, make sure you have positioned all the buckles to optimize fit, they have several places where the buckle location can be moved using tools to remove the buckle and than place it in the next set of holes. Also, again before you use heat, try different foot beds, or even adding two (if you have too much room in the boot). Once you get the fit as best as you can, than you can use some heat to adjust the boot shell if necessary.
@@Petros98223.....Ok then thanks been playing with the liners a bit with a heat gun and there on the wife's boots , so we are going out tomorrow touring and skiing a bit so she can give me some feed back on them .....if its still a problem I will know by then .....and i will give er a go on the boot shell next ....thanks for the info .....SB
Easiest way to answer this is maybe. :) Usually with a shell molding you can get about 4-6mm of expansion. Also with a 100mm last it only is 100mm in a 26.5 size. So bigger sizes don't have as far to stretch to reach 110. Other big factors in this is how much compression your feet can tolerate and also how well the last shape matches your feet. Both can mean than dimensionally you don't need as much 'true space' but just need to get closer. Hope that all makes sense. Best of luck with it.
Atomic don't supply a plastic temperature. You can get results very easily with memory Fit, but I would suggest staying on the lower side. 80C, 180F for oven. 5-8 mins should give good results.
@@PatriotFootbeds Thanks! Also - what can I use to bump out ankle area besides the closed cell foam? I'm trying to do this today and can't wait for something in the mail...
you say 5 minutes to heat the rice, but at what power of the oven ? for Atomic the oven must be set at 117 ° C, at what temperature must the shells of the shoes be in the oven ?
Your microwave power shouldnt be a big factor, it is just to get the rice hot so it radiates into your liners. For the plastic shell temperature, I did cover it, it needs to get to about 80-90 degrees. But if you are molding atomic, be super careful. Very thin shell walls, so dont overdo it as you could risk melting them.
Hello! Thanks for a kickass tutorial! QUESTION! Just got home a pair of Scarpa Maestrale RS (2018) and i really want to mold the Shell as Ive fot wide feet! Nowhere to be found If the boot can take it :) do you know? Thanks!!!
Hi Torbjorn, No worries, Yeah the Maestrale are a Grilamid construction, that will mold but you would need to be very careful with this boot due to the buckles. I would suggest about 100C for 5-8 mins would get a pretty good molding and help you get a better shape out of them :) Cheers
Patriot Footbeds As the ”effekt” I am Looking for is more room over the frontfoot width - maybe I dont even need to tighten the buckles at all - or at least have them to the softest setting at least? That is - If they are at risk of ”popping out”
Yeah just do them up with enough tension to secure them down. No need to crank them. Let the boot mold and expand and you can always tighten later when your ready to ski in them.
@@PatriotFootbeds Hello again! Did this - it ALMOST did the trick - spent a week in the boots - but got some horrible blistering on the "outside" of the pinky/ (Distal bone?!) on my left foot. What would be the best remedy for this? Redo the heat moulding - and add lots of padding on the toe prior to molding? Or could I just heat the shell at that point with a heatgun and "push" gently from the inside to create some more room? - Any good ideas :D (Ps - I live a loooooong way from a proper boot fitter).
I've seen other guides on this (particularly the Salomon X Pro custom shell) that say you also need to remove the insole base plate from the shell before baking. Obviously, mine won't come out and I was wondering if this step is necessary? It's not something you mentioned in your video.
OrdinaryWorld yeah not a necessary step. Maybe in their first iteration they were having boot board warping issues, but I have never seen that happen. You should be all good!
Cool, thanks. I did some more research and found that the material has a melting point of 160C, way above the 100C required for molding. I also got the following reply from Salomon... "However, to answer your question, only the MTN boots requires the insoles to be removed during the customization process, all other range of boots should have the insole base plate inside the boot at all times."
Unfortunately not Rupert. The Vulcans are made with Pebax which does not mold like the examples in the video. You would be able to get them stretched by a boot fitter. but molding wont get you a good result. Cheers
Hey mate, Although they won't mold as easily as the newer versions, you should be able to get something out of them. But it will really depend on what you're trying to achieve. Is it just some more forefoot width you are after? 10 at 100 should be ok. but keep everything super low away from the element and err on the side of caution.
@@PatriotFootbeds I have a problem with boot last. 99mm is 10mm too narrow for my foot. I wanted them very badly. Now after two bootfitter visits, time to go all in at home. Baking already! 6 more mins.
110C 10 mins were ok, though need to get ICE supplies. What i've done is i showered them with ice cold water. I believe i'll do it once more, as I need to be better prepared and make that padding really thick, where I want to expand. Foot feels better, though not ideal.
You would't want to overtighten as it would deform the boot from how you would normally be secured inside them. A good amount of tension is good, just not cranked. :)
Did this to my Salomons. Transformed them. No ankle pain, no arch pain anymore. Put them on in the morning, didn't need to adjust them all day. Didn't even undo them for lunch! Big thank you mate!
Thanks Simon! Great to hear
Just did this with my K2 BFC's and it worked amazing. No more pain anywhere and I have much better control over my ski's. Thank you !!!
I did this to my Atomic boots. Very easy to do. I think the most critical info that this video gave me was the temperature and the amount of time needed. But beyond that information, the video showed such confidence in how easy it is to do it in your own oven that it gave me confidence to pull the trigger and do it myself. It came out great! Thanks for such a great video.
Great work Andrew! Enjoy the skiing!
Did you heat them up to around 80 degrees too?
Mate, this was *perfect* instruction. Right down to the temps for each brand. Did this with my new qst 120s and worked a treat. Looking forward to your next vid.
Thanks Neil!
Hehe, great stuff, thank you! Just did my Atomics. Had to repeat the first one beacuse I put too thin a pad. In the end everything worked like magic. Sunday 10th Dec will start the real test on the snow!
Awesome! Enjoy the turns.
Nailed it, nice job. Love the flash of adding back the footbed, but not sure if you said please remove especially if a custom bed before heating. And the f-bomb was awsome.
Yeah, to be honest when filming this one I forgot to talk about footbeds.(not sure how) So had to get it in there somehow. :)
LOVE the MacGyver shtick!
Thanks Derek! :)
Dalbello... 110c for 8 min... thats hotter than I would have thought. thank you
Cheers Frank
this is the best tut so far
Dude, just done a pair of Head boots i bought second hand but in really great condition, and what a difference. I can easily get them on and so much better than before. Thanks for the great video. ;-)
Awesome work Bob! Enjoy the skiing
Nice one Craig. Great tutorial as always. Love the socks
Thanks mate! Stoked you like the socks.
thanks fore a great introduction. Do you or anyone knows the molding temperature and time for Tecnica ske boots C.A.S
ZERO G TOUR PRO?
I love these videos ....entertaining and knowledgable......that's the fist time I've heard you drop the F bomb.....
sorry for swearing. :) Needed some emphasis!
It's all good
Hi Craig’s, thanx for the great vid. Can’t wait to put mine in the oven and fit them to my feet.... but would you know the heating temp for my Nordica Pro Machine 110. The manufacturer uses IR heating and sells a special tool for it and therefor mentioned no temperature... thanx and regards Pat
Yeah exactly right with the Nordica's. they dont specify a temp as they have designed them to be stretched out with their Infrared and vacuum system. I would recommend staying on the cautious side in regards to temperature.
Idk why but the way he said you can’t f this up rly got me laughing
Torin Schraven me too man. I was casually listening to it and cleaning my room and heard that and lost it.
Excellent use and timing of fu*k. Great tutorial.
Do you really want to do the shells and liners at the same time with spacers inside of the liner? My thinking is that you want to adjust the shell as much as possible first, meaning spacers could be put on the outside of the liner to really push on that area of the shell, but without packing in the liner. Then after the shell is done, you take the spacers off, let the liner fill in that new area created and then you mold them, creating a more uniform thickness. Thoughts? What am I missing?
Hey Brandon,
So it depends on what you are trying to achieve. I can understand your thinking to this approach, but what is the goal? If you want the mold to be precise, you simply wouldn't use any spacers. If you are trying to really expand the amount of space due to excessive pressure, they will help get the extra needed.
@@PatriotFootbeds Thank you very much for the reply. For the record, I have no idea what I'm talking about, just thinking about the physics and since you had the best video I'm asking you :P. Lets take the spacers out of the equation for now as my main question is about simultaneously baking the liner and the shell vs separately. When you put your foot in the boot and have a tight spot, the shell is compressing the liner against your foot, harder than it is in other places. Ideally, I'm thinking that if you don't bake the liner when you bake the shell, that the liner (and your foot) will be applying pressure in that tight spot to stretch the shell, which will make room to allow the liner to expand back to a more uniform thickness in that tight spot. You can then bake the liner to take out the remaining pressure that is still there but was not high enough to deform the shell any further. I'm just thinking that if you bake the liner at the same time, the amount of pressure exerted by the liner is reduced since it is now looking to deform in as much as it is to deform the shell out. Love your videos. In the market for new boots so I've probably watched half a dozen of them more than once.
@@MrBrrrdog I thought exactly the same as you! And I totally agree with you: if you heat mold the liner at the same time, the vast part of desirable deformation will be taken by less resistive material, which is the liner. As a result you will deform your liner up to it limit in the most problematic zone, whereas the shell will receive the minimal shape change. It is definitely better to have the opposite: to achieve the maximum shape change by the shell, and let the liner futher pack up in this area during the time. And, yes, it is probably the best tutorial overall, because it mentions the details such as different brands materials requirements. Well done!
What a healthy foot with all those veggies
:)
I recommend adding hot chili pepper powder to your rice to keep it hotter longer.
Thank you for a great video! Will be checking with you soon on those foot beds! 🎿
Thanks Mickey!
Dude, I love this video ! You gave us such a valuable info. Damn !
omg this intro is fire!
for a spot that you want to relieve pressure on, could you just use a heat gun on that spot along with an infrared heat thermometer, while all buckled up?
If using a heat gun, you will usually want a way to manually stretch the boot. The molding is really good at shaping contour and gaining width expansion. Not so great for directly targeting single spots beyond packing that part of the foot with foam.
@@PatriotFootbeds Thanks!
Your videos are great, I always go back to your videos whenever someone in my house gets a new pair of boots.
@@leightoncash3642 Thanks Leighton!
Great tutorial...I need some room over my instep of Atomic Hawx Ultra XTD. Both foot and instep measure 28cm. If I pad out the instep, bake and buckle tight;y...will that stretch the midfoot? Thanks, Kev
Kevin Nini hey Kev, yeah that is the best method, but you shouldn’t look to buckle tighter than normal, just pad the area, get a good mould and regular tension should work well!. 👍
Great videos! Would you happen to have a recommended temperature and time to "bake" a Tecnica CAS boot? (Mach1)
Cheers Tom,
For the C.A.S it is not 'technically' heat moldable. The dimples you see are for easier direct heating and gauging stretches and grinds.
With that said, you will get a bit out of it with a bake. I would say stick to 100*C at about 8 mins would be safe to give a bit of a mold.
Great video, that MehGuyVah was great! :D I wanted to ask... can you do it also with boots made out of "non-heat-molding" plastic like Scarpa Maestrale? Thank you mate :)
Thanks Lukas! Unfortunately with touring boots that are made with Polyamide plastics, they don't respond well to this heat holding process and you risk melting them. So it is only for the certain types of PU boots that are made specifically for this process. Cheers!
Great video! Thanks for the updated time for the Salomon Custom Shell HD...I also saw that they have reduced their molding time to from 5 minutes to 3 minutes as well.
Thanks Michael
What do you think about using a 2x4(or such) under the front of the boot to settle the heal into the pocket. Some liners recommend when fitting the liner.
Yes, I often will ramp people up just like this to settle the heel pocket into place. Mostly when molding Intuitions.
@@PatriotFootbeds Is there a reason why you didn't use it in this example.
@@rickden8362 This is a standard liner and doesnt mold in the heel area like an intuition does. It is not that drastic of an effect for 90% if liners. Similar as to when you may use toecaps vs just regualar molding.
😂 "all the frozen veggies" xD
Great tutorial! Are Tecnica mach1 mouldable? Thanks
Unfortunately not
@@PatriotFootbeds Thanks!
Hi. I've got Tecnica Mach1 130HV that I need to widen on a long stretch, up to my posterior tarsals. I haven't skied in them yet, but I'm certain that I would be in lots of pain after mere minutes, especially in my right foot. Do you think it would make sense to try to shell mould them, using pads to create extra space? I am not sure if typical punching will create extra width at such large area? I have not yet tried to punche them as I would need to drive to a different town to do that, unfortunately. I'm worried about heating the carbon composite link; maybe I could remove it and the cuff and only heat up the bottom part?
Hey, cool tutorial. I have a pair Full Tilt First Chair 8 (2019) and damn it, I can't find what temperature and for how I have to toast them. Nowhere on internets. Perhaps you have experience with them? Would appreciate if could share an opinion.
So if I get heel pain, but not from heel lift, but from having a wide heel, can I assume I could use the tongue liner around my heel to stretch the liner more?
Its definitely a bit harder to get the heel pocket to expand, but yes that would be the best approach with the molding process.
Would you recommend doing this molding process with my patriot liner sleeves on my liners, or without?
I would think without is better. Where are you trying to target with the molding process?
Hey man, thanks for the tutorial. Can you give any information about Rossignol boots. I just got the Hero 130 for the 2015 season (or maybe 2016, not quite sure) and I want to get some release over the arch of the foot. I would like to do this with heat molding rather than removing the footbed. If you have any info about temp and baking time, I would be very grateful if you share it.
I have the same issue and same boots..... =(
Got temps for the Lange XT Free 130’s? Awesome info thank you so much
Thanks PNW moto! So the Lange's aren't technically a 'foldable' boot. But you should be able to get a bit of extra shaping to them if you are very vigilant and go around 80-100C for 8-10mins. definitely with liners separately.
If I am heat molding the liners as well would I Do them first , same time , or after?
The best result will be to do them at the same time! Or you can just do the shells and let the liners bed in as you ski them!
I have molded my liners to where I want them. Would it be okay to heat up the shell without heating the liner?
Full Tilt Descendant 120 27.5 size
Evolution shell and Pro Intuition liner.
Great tutorial !! Do you know if Dalbello Lupo Ax 115 shell is mouldable ? On the liner I have the My Fit label but I'm not sure about the shell. On Dalbello site in their description they mention only the liner there isn't any information about the shell. If the label is there on the liner it means that also the shell is mouldable ? Thank you.
Yes you should be all good to go on the Lupo AX. The liner is an EVA so super moldable and anything you see with the MyFit label will also be plastic shell moldable. :) Cheers!
Hi Craig! Have you tried to mold Nordicas with Infrared plastic? In their manual they said you can mold it in oven, but no temperature reccomended:(
I have problems with cuff aligment on my Nordica Striders, so i want to fix them a bit. I have both Atomic/Salomon oven and Fischer. Do you have any suggestions?)
Whoa this is so awesome! I am about to heat mold a set of Salomon X Pro 120 ski boots...before I begin I notice that they are a bit sloppy in the heel and that big toe on L foot is rubbing a bit more than I would like. Do you think that the heels will tighten up after heat molding the liners and shells? And for the big toe contact/pressure...considering cutting the toe off of another sock and putting it over my toes before doing the heat mold in order to maybe open up some space in liner/shell...would that be a good approach? Any better techniques/ideas for creating space around big toe on one boot? Thanks so much for posting these videos and sharing your expertise and also your tips and sense of humor as well!
Hi Stephen, Any molding that you do will only expand the space of the boots. Only the Fishcer Vaccuum system can do any tightening in during molding. But yes this should sort out the big toe pressure easily and padding this area will really help in creating the space for it.
There are some other strategies to tighten the heel if it still feels loose after this process. Definitely start with a footbed with deep heel cup to secure any lateral movement. And then you can snug up around the heel and ankles if still needed. Cheers :)
Thank you so much for the advice and information! I'll give this all a try. Stephen
Hi, I have a pair of Lange SX 90. I read It has a polyurethane monoinjected Shell. Do you think It will work? If so, please give temperature and time. Thanks!!
How about Dropkick Fulltilts? Have had my liners heat moulded & custom footbeds made, boots do fit as required but seem a little pinched, I know once I start skiing in them they should adjust, just a little paranoid as I’m heading out Xmas & ideally want a great fit.. I do have an excellent boot fitter but thought I might try a little DIY?. Love your work M8 👍
How old are your dropkicks?
Although FT aren't promoting it much yet as a feature, their plastic on the new models will mold a little with this process. I would go for about 8 mins at 100 degrees should be safe enough to make it happen. Don't put your liners in though, shells only. Cheers
Patriot Footbeds 2017/2018 Craig. I’ll give it a go. Ps, just ordered a pair of your socks M8 👍
@@jamesginnelly5386 Legend! You will love them. Cheers mate.
Great Video...you mean this can be done with a regular gas oven? as long as we are measuring the temperature not to heat greater than 100 degC for my Salomon Xpro.
Is there any problem with remolding the shells ,,once they have been done before?? I have Atomic Hawx,, thanks for the info
You should be ok to try and remold. Finished product wont be like molding a new shell, but you should be able to get some manipulation.
Great video....I bought the Lange LX 120...anyone had success trying this with Lange?
Hi, very interesting...do you know if is the same process for atomic boots with mimic liner?? i saw a video where only mold the mimic...thanks!! (by the way...i searched in the comments, but didn't found the question...sorry if it is a reapeted one)
What about Lange RS 130 shells? What about Lange RS 130 liners? Can you give the temp °C/minutes for the shell and liners?
You can only heat mould the liners in the RS
@@PatriotFootbeds Hi, thx for the reply! Do you know for how long and what temperature to use?
Also is heating up the shell just a matter of "it doesn't do anything" or more a "the way the components are mixed it destroys their functionality"?
@@OfficialKoven I would recommend the rice in the sock method for the liners as it is a safe control of heat and will activate the foam well for molding. For the shell heat molding, correct, the plastic compound and dual core construction doesn't react well. It just retracts back to its original shape. You are much better off manually stretching this boot to get a decent result.
Do you have to take the rubber parts of the sole off the boot? Just grabbed Solomons 120 pro and about to do this but not sure about the rubber on the bottom of the foot..
hey love the video i just did my Salomon Xmax 130 and it worked perfectly. would the same work on Head Raptor 120 RS 2019 ( racing boot)
Jamal Hart great to hear! Unfortunately, I don’t think you will get as good of a result with your race boots.
thanks what about Lange RS 110 dual core can be molded?
Nordica Speedmachine temperature ?
Hi l have a question. I want to try my kids Range RS 70 SC for oven molding. Is this boots possible? If it is ok, what range of temperature
Is better ? Thanks
Hey man, first question for this would be for what purpose? Are you trying to mold for a specific fix, or just want to try in general?
Lange dont promote the dual core as a heat moldable platform, but it is a PU that generally reacts well to a bit of heat.
Can you reshape these boots if I get them second hand I mean.
Yes for sure
Love your vids! Why should you only loosely buckle the boot when molding the shell?
Love your videos Craig!
Question. Will this work with the K2 Mindbender 120? If yes, what temp and for how long? THANKS!
Hi Francisco, Thanks mate!
Yes it will work with the Mindbender. Just because of the thin walls I would recommend 80 for 10 mins
Whats the white plate for inside of my K2 B.F.C 100 in the sole area.
White plate? Are you referring to the boot board?
Must be the term for it!
Thanks for the video. Could I use foam from a mouse pad for the pressure points? What is the density of that patriot foam?
I think you could try. As long as you can keep it in place on your foot, any extra foam will help force out a little extra pressure and mold a pocket.
Shove sock down boot, stretch over cuff, then fill with rice, no?
Ah nm. Need hot rice!
Thats genius! Yes!
I thought you meant to fill them up, so you dont spill the rice like me! :)
Where do you find the temperatures? I have some Tecnica Cochise boots and I'd like to try this. Thanks!
smellslikedonkey the Cochise is not a mouldable boot. Can be easily stretched but not as easily moulded. You can mold the liner though.👍
Ah okay. Thanks for the awesome vids!@@PatriotFootbeds
Hi, Craig! Do you bother about cuff alignment while cooling down the boots?
I would recommend setting the cuff alignment before doing the molding.
Patriot Footbeds Could it be accidentally changed during molding process because of soften plastic?
There is not much chance of it altering the cuff alignment. It would take a very extreme case to put enough pressure to affect it. If you set it up first then mold it, I think you will be spot on!
Great video, thanks! I have a question regarding boot selection, I have a small wide foot, high instep, narrow heel and small calf. I'm trying to decide between the Atomic Hawx Magna and the Atomic Hawx Prime. The Magna gives me the space I need in the forefoot and instep but is large in the calf and heel, buckles are as tight as they will go around the calf and thinking the liner will pack out and it may be too big eventually. The Prime is tight in the forefoot and instep but fits better in the calf and heel. Is it a better idea to go with the Prime and stretch the forefoot and instep with heating or go with the Magna and try to take up space in the calf and heel if it gets too big? Thanks!
Hi Loire,
Yeah it will always be better to go for the smaller boot and expand it to fit. It is much easier and more successful to expand a boot, rather than try to take space away. :)
Do make sure that instep height is in a good range with the shell fit. The liner can be manipulated in this area, but the shell is harder to increase at the instep. Cheers!
What is the model name of those salomon, love the looks of them.
Hi Daniel, this boot is the Salomon X Pro
Don't buy boots for their looks. Buy them for how they fit !@#$%!
Hi mate, do you know the temperature for Rossignol and for how long in the oven?
Love the Mullet..
Does it leave a plastic smell in the oven after the procedure?
You forgot tecnica. They call theirs C.A.S. For the liner, the instruction manual says to put it in the oven for 8 minutes at 175 degrees then step into the shell. I don't know what the shell specifications are for heat molding.
Hi Ron,
Cheers, but didnt forget, the CAS system is slightly different. You will find nearly all boot liners are moldable. The CAS liners are great and can easy be molded and shaped, even be attacked with a dremel. In regards to the shells, the CAS system is more tailored to manual punching instead of shell molding. The dimples allow easy and even heating with a heat gun and provide a guage for making the punches/ stretches as needed.
Cheers :)
Should the ski boot shell be molded right after purchasing or should I ski in them a few times before the heat molding?
I would recommend skiing in them first and only do the holding when it is definitely need for pressure points.
That way you maintain a close and precise fit and often the molding isn't required at all!
What temperature for the Nordica "Infrared" technology boots?
Nordica dont provide a temperature for this as they designed them for use with the infrared system. Heat molding would be possible, but staying on the conservative side would be the better approach.
Super tutorial, gonna try this! But how much Watts have you used on the microwave? Or what temperature should the rice be?
Just a standard microwave will do, dont worry too much about the settings as it just radiates a low heat through the liner. The liners will always continue to pack in and mold as you ski, but the shells need this good hit of heat to take a good shape. 5 mins in any microwave should do the job for the rice. Good luck with it! :)
Great intro!!
2022 K2 mindbender 120……moldable?????
Where can I find the pads your putting on your feet to add extra room for hotspots?
Right here- patriotfootbeds.com/products/heat-molding-kit
@@PatriotFootbeds I tried heating my Atomic Hawx 120s without having the pieces that you put over the bony places in your foot. I think it helped, but I still had a few spots that really hurt so ordered the kit last night!
@@joshthomas7622 Awesome mate. Hope it works great!
Hi! I have one question. I have "Head Raptor 120 RS". Can you tell me what is temperature for that Head boots? Thanks!
Hi Dejan, Due to the density and wall thickness of that boot, they likely wont respond as well to shell molding. Head only recommend heat molding their Form Fit boot options.
Anyone have temps for Technica c.a.s.? The manual only has info for the liner @ 80c/175f for 8 mins. Is the shell the same?
If a shell has had a little grinding done to it, can it still be stretched? The shop did a little grinding but, now my boot needs to be stretched. 2mm
Possible, but extreme care would be needed. It will depend just how thin the shell wall has been ground to.
I know this is from a few years ago but do you know how long Full Tilt boot shells need to be cooked for. I assume it would be a similar amount of time to K2 but I cant find the info anywhere.
Hi David, Yeah I would suggest sticking to the same as K2. 8-10 mins at about 80 degrees should be in the realm
Hi, do you know if this is possible to do with a Technica Zero G Scout boot?
No
Why only 2 minutes for the salomon custom shell hd? I've read 10 minutes in other places?
The reason is with the new custom shell HD the shell walls are thinner and heat quicker. The first version of custom shell was 10 mins. :)
Would this process work with last years Nordica Dobermann? (Black and Green no infra red areas?) I did heat fit the liners. I removed the factory insole for a bit extra room and used a 3/4 plantar fasciitis insole. It has a gel heal and pocket for shock and a small pillow under the fore foot. I still feel I need a little more arch support. Always like to tinker for a better fit and wonder if heating the shells is possible for this boot and key to a better over all fit?
Which model do you have? If it is the 110/120/130 gp and not the WC models, you might get a little bit out of it. It certainly wont mold the same as these examples in the video. The Infrared models will mold easier, but I chose not to include them in this tutorial as its not Nordicas "method" and to avoid confusion.
Thank you for the reply. It is the 130 gp. I think I only need a "little bit" as far as the shells go. Besides needing a bit more arch support my only complaint would be just a little too much compression. The last is 98mm and my foot measures 97mm. The fit is good now but I think this could really help to make it closer to perfect. Thanks for sharing your experience your videos are a great resource.
Yeah I think the footbed might be the better solution to try first. Getting some more support will likely make all the difference.
Fantastic! You know anybody who sells them? ;-) Will be placing an order. Thanks again.
Same heating temperature / time for infrared models?@@PatriotFootbeds
How about Scarpa Boots ? oven time if that will work for them ....thanks
I have done it on my Scarpa boots. one spot was a bit too narrow on my left foot, I put on extra thick wool socks and put on the boot. I used a heat gun and concentrated the heat where I need a bit more extra width along side the outside of the boot. Eventually I felt it relax a bit, I felt the heat too. than let it cool while I kept it on my foot, weight on the boot. Fit perfectly after that with normal weight ski sock, even on long day backcountry tours. before you try this, make sure you have positioned all the buckles to optimize fit, they have several places where the buckle location can be moved using tools to remove the buckle and than place it in the next set of holes. Also, again before you use heat, try different foot beds, or even adding two (if you have too much room in the boot). Once you get the fit as best as you can, than you can use some heat to adjust the boot shell if necessary.
@@Petros98223.....Ok then thanks been playing with the liners a bit with a heat gun and there on the wife's boots , so we are going out tomorrow touring and skiing a bit so she can give me some feed back on them .....if its still a problem I will know by then .....and i will give er a go on the boot shell next ....thanks for the info .....SB
How about Full Tilt Evolution heat mouldable shell? How long and what temperature?
Hey Fred, Yeah I would recommend about 80C for 8-10 mins should produce a nice mold.
Hi.
is it possible to get a 100mm last boot to fit a 110mm foot. how much do they usually stretch ;) ? (dalbello ds 120)
Easiest way to answer this is maybe. :)
Usually with a shell molding you can get about 4-6mm of expansion. Also with a 100mm last it only is 100mm in a 26.5 size. So bigger sizes don't have as far to stretch to reach 110.
Other big factors in this is how much compression your feet can tolerate and also how well the last shape matches your feet. Both can mean than dimensionally you don't need as much 'true space' but just need to get closer.
Hope that all makes sense. Best of luck with it.
Hi any idea what is the Scarpa heat setting/time?
Great info! Does it work with K2 Pinnacle?
Yes, it will work great on the Pinnacles.
@@PatriotFootbeds Thanks! One more question. Could you tell me temperature and time for Pinnacle (mine is 110)?? Are they same to K2 fitlogix?
@@윤혁진-y2z Exactly!
What temp should the shell be on an atomic hawx ultra with memory fit?
Atomic don't supply a plastic temperature. You can get results very easily with memory Fit, but I would suggest staying on the lower side. 80C, 180F for oven. 5-8 mins should give good results.
@@PatriotFootbeds Thanks! Also - what can I use to bump out ankle area besides the closed cell foam? I'm trying to do this today and can't wait for something in the mail...
you say 5 minutes to heat the rice, but at what power of the oven ? for Atomic the oven must be set at 117 ° C, at what temperature must the shells of the shoes be in the oven ?
Your microwave power shouldnt be a big factor, it is just to get the rice hot so it radiates into your liners. For the plastic shell temperature, I did cover it, it needs to get to about 80-90 degrees. But if you are molding atomic, be super careful. Very thin shell walls, so dont overdo it as you could risk melting them.
@@PatriotFootbeds Thank you !
Can this work with Rossignol boots?
Not at this stage unfortunately.
Hello! Thanks for a kickass tutorial! QUESTION! Just got home a pair of Scarpa Maestrale RS (2018) and i really want to mold the Shell as Ive fot wide feet! Nowhere to be found If the boot can take it :) do you know? Thanks!!!
Hi Torbjorn,
No worries, Yeah the Maestrale are a Grilamid construction, that will mold but you would need to be very careful with this boot due to the buckles. I would suggest about 100C for 5-8 mins would get a pretty good molding and help you get a better shape out of them :)
Cheers
Patriot Footbeds Sweet!!!! 1000 000 Thanks! Time to bake :) is there anything in particular I need to be careful with regarding the buckles?
Patriot Footbeds As the ”effekt” I am Looking for is more room over the frontfoot width - maybe I dont even need to tighten the buckles at all - or at least have them to the softest setting at least? That is - If they are at risk of ”popping out”
Yeah just do them up with enough tension to secure them down. No need to crank them. Let the boot mold and expand and you can always tighten later when your ready to ski in them.
@@PatriotFootbeds Hello again! Did this - it ALMOST did the trick - spent a week in the boots - but got some horrible blistering on the "outside" of the pinky/ (Distal bone?!) on my left foot. What would be the best remedy for this? Redo the heat moulding - and add lots of padding on the toe prior to molding? Or could I just heat the shell at that point with a heatgun and "push" gently from the inside to create some more room? - Any good ideas :D (Ps - I live a loooooong way from a proper boot fitter).
that mehguywah intro!
I've seen other guides on this (particularly the Salomon X Pro custom shell) that say you also need to remove the insole base plate from the shell before baking. Obviously, mine won't come out and I was wondering if this step is necessary? It's not something you mentioned in your video.
OrdinaryWorld yeah not a necessary step. Maybe in their first iteration they were having boot board warping issues, but I have never seen that happen. You should be all good!
Cool, thanks. I did some more research and found that the material has a melting point of 160C, way above the 100C required for molding. I also got the following reply from Salomon... "However, to answer your question, only the MTN boots requires the insoles to be removed during the customization process, all other range of boots should have the insole base plate inside the boot at all times."
What temperature for full tilt boots?
Does this ski boot have a walk mode?
No it is just an alpine boot with no walk mode. It does have a flex adjustment on the back of the cuff.
Thanks for the tutorial, worked great on my Solomon XPro!
Thanks Ian, Great to hear! :)
Your next meal should be Ski Boot BBQ with some Warm Socks Rice and frozen veggies...that's a no brainer for sure.
How's that for a taste? ;) lol
:D
Anyone do this with Rossignol "FULL CUSTOM T3" liners? What temp?
Hello. I have lange boots. is it possible to thermoform them as well. the boot itself and its inside?
I use Google Translate
You can definitely thermoform the liners, but the plastic shell does not mold as easily.
@@PatriotFootbeds
thanks for the answer. I will try
can you do this with the dynafit Vulcans?
Unfortunately not Rupert. The Vulcans are made with Pebax which does not mold like the examples in the video. You would be able to get them stretched by a boot fitter. but molding wont get you a good result. Cheers
Patriot Footbeds thanks man
Is it working with lange boots ?
No, sorry the Lange don't respond well to this
Time and temps for Rossignol boots anyone? Would appreciate it.
Hello,
Has anyone baked old 2011-15 full tilts? I Have 3 pairs 11,12,12, and have nothing to lose. Need to bake them right. Planning 10 mins 100C.
Hey mate,
Although they won't mold as easily as the newer versions, you should be able to get something out of them. But it will really depend on what you're trying to achieve. Is it just some more forefoot width you are after?
10 at 100 should be ok. but keep everything super low away from the element and err on the side of caution.
@@PatriotFootbeds I have a problem with boot last. 99mm is 10mm too narrow for my foot. I wanted them very badly. Now after two bootfitter visits, time to go all in at home. Baking already! 6 more mins.
110C 10 mins were ok, though need to get ICE supplies. What i've done is i showered them with ice cold water. I believe i'll do it once more, as I need to be better prepared and make that padding really thick, where I want to expand. Foot feels better, though not ideal.
This is awesome. Why don’t you tighten your boots as tight as they go for when you’re standing with them hot for 5 mins
You would't want to overtighten as it would deform the boot from how you would normally be secured inside them. A good amount of tension is good, just not cranked. :)
Patriot Footbeds awesome thanks man!