How to make Big Monsters Easy - HC 309
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- Опубликовано: 16 окт 2024
- In this Hobby Cheating tutorial, I help you lose the fear around painting big monsters. These beig center pieces can often be intimidating, but they really aren't that challenging, they are just bigger. We can use simple techniques to get these monsters looking good and on the table fast.
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Just wanted to say that I followed this tutorial pretty much step by step and it resulted in the miniature I am probably proud of the most, and it was a really good day’s painting! So thank you :)
Great to hear!
Vince, for goodness sake, get a dang Amazon affiliate link!! I've been buying supplies to start doing oils over the past few weeks (streaking grime, white spirits, makeup sponges, mask ventilator) and I really would like you to get a kickback for all that! I'm buying this stuff specifically because of your tutorials, so you deserve some compensation for the great videos you put out!
(also you are critically undersubbed and I don't know why. you put out some of the best hobby materials on RUclips)
This comment made me realise that I wasn't subbed despite watching for ages.
You're absolutely right, Vince is criminally undersubbed.
It's true. These are among the best and most thorough mini painting tutorials on RUclips. The in-depth exploring color videos are particularly helpful imo.
This dude needs MOAR SUBZ!!
Wow, I always thought he had like 150-200k subs, definitely undersubbed, especially considering all the painting tips/hobby cheating
While I could be wrong, but I think that Vince doesn't do this for the subs or the money. I think that he does it for the love of the hobby and the games.
Note it doesn't mean that he should make nothing. I would love to see him get paid for all of the help and information that he shares with all of us. But I don't believe that is his personal goal with his channel. Just helping all of us to be able to improve ourselves and our skills.
I just came to say something along these lines after buying 3 more tones of the AK streaking grime (fuel stain, light slime and dark slime - didn't realize he used the spaceship one here, doh!). I know very well that he wants 0 compensation from the channel because he has little need for the $ and enjoys his well compensated career outside the hobby and because compensation can change the nature of a thing whether you like it or not and his mission has always been to send all this knowledge filtering out to all of us.
I was going to ask him if he ever thinks about how much dollar value inventory he moves for all of these entities though, just for fun lol. It's definitely a big number. I'm still behind on my list of Vince-Stuff to buy as I have held off on the AbM Oilbrushers thus far.
This video comes at the best possible time! I have just finished sculpting a big dragon, and I recently bought an airbrush, so all these tips are amazingly helpful. Thank you so much!
Awesome, happy to help. :)
As some one who is fairly new to painting I've been intimidated by my vampire lord on zombiedragon. My biggest hurdle is air brushing the bone and getting the wings right. It's always a pleasure to watch your videos and work up the courage to just get after it!
Get amongst it, you can do it. :)
I'm slowly working through a deep hive (tyranid but crab) army for OPR and this video is such a blessing
Painting large monsters has easily become my favorite stuff to paint over the past two years.
100%
Thank you Vince, this certainly has helped me a great deal. It has reiterated, yet again, that for me that a PLAN real helps improve my end results. For decades I've just sat down and painted - it's the way I've always done it. Now, when I remember to plan I get a way better finished model. I'm slowly breaking the habits picked up when I started back in the 80s! BTW, I've found that the spoon on the end of those metal paint stirrers by Tamiya, is a perfect size for adding pigment to your metal recipes. I mention it as I figure it a tool that lots of people are likely to have.
Good call!
Vince, great video, as always! It was good to see the “usual” techniques put to use on bigger models and see firsthand how easy as well as quick it can be. Thanks for the expert guidance!
Always happy to help. :)
Phalanges are the fingers. Carpals and metacarpals are wrists and hands, tarsals and metatarsals are ankles and feet.
There we go.
The true technomancy here is not just churning out a great looking army in a week, but also putting out two quality videos about the process in a week. I love how the shadows from the red primer and streaking grime really tie everything together while the green, yellow, and metals still pop out!
Also props for stressing safety when spraying enamel washes. No need to be breathing that stuff.
Yep, you have to be safe with that stuff, it's toxic as.
Thank you for giving me the confidence to tackle this model. I also have the Krondys dragon which I have been putting off because it is too big. I will use your techniques and hopefully get some good results. Removing the airbrush needle guard for better accuracy is an excellent tip, thank you and I will be careful.
Wonderful, always happy to help!
Your airbrush control is amazing! This video definitely helps conquering the fear of larger models. Thank you so much.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for this video, Vince! I love your "old school" videos with neat projects and tutorials like this. I have a shame pile of huge cosmic horror monsters that I've been thinking about, and this video is fantastic inspiration to get all of the claws, tentacles, eyeballs and horns painted. Keep up the amazing work!
Fantastic! Always happy to help.
@@VinceVenturella I need to learn how to paint large flat surface without airbrush. So far, no matter what, still have that brush strokes visible! Funny, I can paint windows with gloss paint neatly, but cannot do it on miniatures! Should I use oil paint?
Always amazing to watch you work and pick up pointers to bring back to my own projects. You're the master! Thank you for doing and sharing and teaching and just being an awesome creative force.
Thank you, always happy to help.
Frankly, one of the reasons I finally got an airbrush in the first place was to paint models this size! I just so happen to be getting into oil paints as well, of late, so this is all kinda coming together, for me. I'd forgotten about removing the airbrush cap for more precise lines, too. Good work, sir!
Thank you, always happy to help. :)
This is the video I was hoping to see when you did your Seraphon army. With dragons on the way, this was what I needed.
Awesome, happy to help brother. :)
I’ve been sitting on the Emperor Dragon from Creature Caster for a while because I didn’t know how to tackle him. This video has lit my fire Vince, thank you!
That's what I love to hear. :)
Is there any particular reason you use the grime instead of an oil wash exept that it has already the right consistency, or would an oil wash work just as well?
came to ask the same question...hope we get an answer if not from Vince, then from a fellow viewer
I think oil washes would look great but would definitely take a bit more time, mostly because the airbrush isn't great for application and the cleanup is a bit more arduous. I do really like the graininess of it compared to enamels so I think it's a legitimate choice between the two based on what you prefer.
It has a slightly grittier finish and is easier to fuzz out is my honest answer, though you could achieve the same effect with both or at least something close. But the real answer is also that it dries much quicker, easier to clean up and easier to paint over.
The Streaking enamels always have a matte finish when they dry, while some oil paint may dry glossy. (Gamblin 1980 Van Dyke Brown in seems to go glossy on me with Gamsol.)
Definitely the best named series about mini painting.
Seing you going so quick on such huge monster and having such beautiful result feels like cheating.
Amazing video as always
Thank you, always happy to help, :)
You make everything look so easy! Thanks for another wonderful video
Thanks so much 😊
This looks amazing.
Question, I’ve got an air brush but never used streaking grime at all, nevermind through the air brush. Do I need to treat it the same as paint and use thinner etc?
Thank you!
No, it's an enamel product, not acryllic, so you have to use white spirits like you would for oil paints or similar.
@@VinceVenturellathank you for the reply! So white spirits to thin it down enough so that it goes through the brush, got it! Thanks!
Also, how long did you let the grime dry for before starting to work with it?
Thanks again for the reply, really appreciated!
Nice work. Haven't ventured into enamel washes myself but after seeing the effect they produced on your model, I may take the plunge. Good tip on being careful not to bend tip of needle. That'll ruin your day quick. I have one of the sharpenair tools to repair needles and they work great. If you haven't tried the tool yet, I highly recommend. Saves $$$ and, I don't know about you , but when I have bent needles in the past it was usually at really inconvenient times (like when there weren't any art/hobby shops open).
Interesting, I will have to check that out!
The grime step was very helpful! I have a thunderhawk I want to grime up but I'm bit afraid to do it because of the amount of money and time that thing took... This gives me more confidence.
Yep, nothing to fear, you can always remove it easily.
Just an FYI, Vince. Dinging your AB needle (if you're removing the tip for needle cleaning while spraying), isn't always the end of the needle. You can usually save them by carefully rolling the tip across a harder surface, to refit the tip to mostly straight. It's also pretty easy to account for a slight change in trajectory if it doesn't go all the way straight. I've only ever bought 1 new needle in the last 20 years as an illustrator and kustom auto painter. Tho, if you mushroom the tip end, you're gonna want a new one, but they usually bend first. There are plenty of vids here on YT for proper technique if one is worried about making it worse.
Good call, I've rolled it flat with a glass before, but it's always quite a challenge.
Amazing work as always Vince! You are like the Godfather of miniature painting that should get way more recognition than you seemingly do! I always see others referencing you in their vids. Perhaps you give the subtle nod, tip of the hat from the darkened corner booth whenever an up and comer makes the scene. ;)
Thank you, I enjoy my spot in the darkened corner. :)
Gave me the confidence to start my Zombie Dragon. Couldn’t do him as well or as quick as you but I’m very happy with the results for the time I put in. Thank you for the video :)
Glad I could help! :)
Starting to paint my Maw Krusha tonight Vince and I'm going to be using your techniques here with my own scheme. The tip about "hot spot" highlights with the airbrush in particular I didn't think of but will be definitely using too. My Ironjawz sport a bright yellow and blue scheme with subdued green skin. I'm thinking I'll do the Krusha in high contrasting blues with pale biege-yellows for the claws and underbelly. The Megaboss rider will have bright yellow armor.
Thanks for this video!
Happy to help!
Its always great to wake up to a steaming fresh Vince V video!
I do love Satruday mornings as well. :)
Vince, thank you so much for this. I'm just about to start my ironjawz army and was definitely concerned about painting one of these guys
Just wow! I love how the many individual simple techniques you use and show all come together for an amazing finish! I've had an airbrush for a while now but never really added any variation, these last two videos have really helped me level up my skills and motivated me to be more daring with my own armies. (and maybe made me order a few ironjaws)
I've been scared of using enamels for a while but this is really making me want to give them a go. If you leave the streaking grime too long or work too slowly, or even want to take more of a few days later is it still possible to fully re-activate it? In my experience with oils if you wait too long it becomes almost impossible to remove, is it the same with enamels?
Criminally underrated channel right here. Quality production, soothing narration and amazing tips, how are you not more well know?!
Oh yeah one more question. With the pigments on the bases, do you seal them with anything? Whenever i seal them i always lose the dusty look, and for my game pieces i do want something that doesnt rub off over time. Do i just have to accept that or is there a work around.
Well thank you, always happy to help. As to the pigment, nope, don't seal it, when you work them in like that, they aren't going anywhere.
Do you have trouble with dry tip more without the nozzle on the dry brush? Also I have been trying to workout how to replicate your formulas to fill an empty Vallejo metals bottle so the paint is ready to go but I have not had much success. Have tried this with your copper and gold recipes at all?
Nope, no real additional dry tip. I haven't made a big bottle, but you should just be able to multiply out the recipe.
Hey Vince, so I’ve been working my way through my Ironjaws following your previous video and i first want to say thank you so much for the inspiration and motivation to break out my airbrush and get going.
I have one question though, please could you confirm the initial mix for the green skin? Is it the same as the Orruk skin in the last video or a different mix? You did do a few other mixes in the video without saying but I don’t mind eyeballing those, just the green being the one I don’t want to mess up!
Thanks in advance!
This is a different mix, it's basically any mid-tone green, and then adding in yellow and then a little ivory. Any paints/brands will work, but that first green should be a solid mid-green (50/50 yellow and blue), think like a grass or warm forest green.
Looks great Vince and with relatively fast and simple techniques. Great explanations as always a real motivator. I'm definiely guilty of the "oh, I'm saving this cool big model until I can do it justice" and then it's still sitting there unpainted. Nice to see you can just get stuck in and with a few basic techniques get such a good outcome.
That's exactly right, there will always be improvement, but that's no reason to wait. :)
Since getting into AoS and choosing Seraphon as a first army, I've always loved this model so much. Sadly I won't be able to use it any time soon without additional Ironjaws. I'd love a similar bulky dino guy inside my Seraphon line! Stellar job on the paintjob Vince
Thank you, always happy to help. :)
Just take this guy and replace the rider with a Saurus. Than play it as count-as Carnosaur.
Amazing piece Vince, great inspiration, thanks so much for this. Love the combination of dry-brushing and airbrushing and the contrasts of hues you are building. What model is this? I tried to search in the comments below but nobody seems to ask that question, and I could not find a reference anywhere (actually at 0:51 you say something that sounds like the name of the model, but Google subtitles shows "so this is a Mock Russia...." 😅 - sorry, English is not my first language... 🙂). So either it's too well known (shame on me for not knowing it) or..? I know the purpose of this video is to show techniques and ideas for painting any similar monster/creature but I find this one particular attractive, so pls let us know! Thanks again.
No issue, this is the Maw Crusha (part of the Mega Boss on Maw Crusha) from Games Workshop.
@@VinceVenturella thanks so much! Yes this definitely sounded like "Mock Russia" to Google 😊
Thank you for this video! Seriously first time I thought I can actually tackle a monster.
Fantastic!
Love how you made it almost easy to paint bigger monsters
That was certainly the goal. :)
Thank you Vince. This one really resonated with me. Please stay safe.
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
2-2,5 hours for this?? Jesus man. This would take most people 2-2,5 days of painting.
Impressive as always, Vince!
Well, it's all here. :)
Fantastic work! Thanks for sharing. I learned some things that will be handy when I tackle my Great Unclean One and Stonehorn
Glad it was helpful!
If I could paint anything in even 50% of this quality in 2 hours I've considered myself a hobby winner. Imagine getting rid of half your backlog in a weekend :O
your grime removing technique was very useful, thanks!
Glad it helped!
I just got a cabbage for Christmas! Thank you so much for the tutorial !
Wonderful!
I think if I ever took the plunge on airbrushing on streaking grime, I'd feel compelled to move the compressor and air brush outside for the session. But I'm too lazy so I'll probably stick to just brush-washing enamels and oils heh.
That's fine, same effect, it's just time. :)
Staring down trying to paint Archaon and Belakor this week, this is most timely!
Awesome!
Amazing tutorial. I will use your technics when I get the stormcast big dragons
Glad it was helpful!
I've got an arachnorak spider up and coming so this was great!
Fantastic!
What would you differently if you don't want the model to be grimy? Lumineth battlecattle for example?
So many 'do it quick!' videos use a lot of dirty/grimy/grimdarky/etc. stuff but not everything (or everyone) wants that aesthetic.
Well, super clean painting is generally more difficult and time consuming, that being said, there is no reason you couldn't do the exact same thing, you would just be more thorough with the cleaning and leave it only in the shadows. Or use oil paints for more color/control options in the same method.
@@VinceVenturella I'll try the oil approach I think.
Hey Vince! Sorry for the question spam, just want to make sure I get this right before I attempt my to paint my model.
You use streaking grime which has a green tinge to it and that works great with how you’ve painted maw krusha however I’m going to be painting mine in shades of orange. If I mix some burnt Sienna + black oil paints in with some enamel thinner, that’s going to give me the same effect as streaking grime right? Just trying to get a brown finish in the recesses rather than green.
Thanks!
I don't think you want to mix the oils and enamels, but there are other tints of streaking grime, so you don't need the streaking grime green tinted one necessarily.
Stunning work, masterful.
Spectacular as always!
Behold the power of the book of Vincent!
Did you paint the metal after as the grime didn't look good over copper?
Yes, in general, I don't want anything that I am not controlling over the metals as it interferes with the shine.
this looks so good!!! What an amazing, efficient process. Fabulous as always :)
Thanks! :)
19:40 I have seen multiple comments of people considering to create a pot of your custom mix (be it copper or gold). This idea appeals to me as well. One thing that holds me back is that the only 2 custom mixes that have dried out fast, where the ones containing one or more Vallejo Metal Colors. Granted those where only like an 8th of a 20ml dropper bottle, but all other custom mixes I have made, even small amounts, are still good after a decent period of storage. I think the more air is left in the bottle, the more changes of it drying out. Either that, or the bottles leak. If the latter were true, than I would expect the other custom mixes to dry out too. Maybe the Vallejo Metal Colors contain some kind of alcohol, like that's in Vallejo Airbrush Thinner, that make them evaporate faster than regular acrylic paint. Would love to know your thoughts on this subject.
Yes, they do contain alcohol, so that’s a challenge. I know some people have made some In tighter glass bottles, but I always just mix for that moment.
Vince, if you HAD to varnish something like this for tabletop durability, would you use the same mix of 3:1 UMatte to Satin?
Yes i would. :)
That looks absolutely amazing! Great job👍
Thank you! Cheers!
will all of the techniques shown also work on models that are not gloriously round roly poly combat cabbages?
Absolutely.
Do you clean your airbursh with a different chemical when using Enamels through the airbrush?
I am afraid to try because I am not sure how to clean enamel paint out of my Iwata Hp-BH.
Yes I do! Just white spirits to clean it out (Please keep your mask on and venthilate the room, that stuff is toxic).
@@VinceVenturella thanks Vince, still getting used to oils and enamels and wasn't sure.
I have been hesitant to paint my Maw Krusha and Ironjawz because I was worried that I couldn’t do them justice. Now after these latest videos I’m excited to finally paint them.
Awesome, always happy to help. :)
Another great paint job, made to look so easy
Thanks 👍
Great video as always! How long do you let the enamel wash dry before removing with the makeup sponges?
Just until it doesn't look wet (i.e. it's not glossy)
Love this scheme!! And thanks for giving me a load of inspiration to finally paint up my glotkin I've been putting off 🤣
Glad to hear it! Always happy to help
Thank you for All your work, yourself, tyler ,Tom and meph are the reason for so much of the fun I have in the hobby. Please do your merch in a non-white colour so I can buy it! Best wishes from germany
I will do what I can, I am going to update the merch store before the end of the year. :)
Wow, the moment you painted the spines it suddenly stopped being a cabbage. I may have just learned something new about the (un)natural history of dragons.
There you go. :)
Vince, once again a great tutorial, many thanks! Do to medical issues, the use of enamels, lacquers, oil paints and white spirits (even ordeless) are verboten in my paint arsenal, with the exception of acrylic paints. With that being said, what are some acrylic paint methods I can use to replicate the method you used with the streaking grime?
I'm not Vince but I've been experimenting in using other effects to imitate oil/enamel washes and wash removal.
I've been utilizing Citadel washes, putting on a bit thicker and wetter wash, let sit for about 5-8 seconds, then use a damp brush to aggressively wick away the wet wash from the high points, to the point of being almost completely gone except for light staining. Rinse brush, wipe down to damp, repeat.
The natural capillary action will make it naturally draw into the recesses, but it also wants to pull off the mini into your damp brush. It feels very much like drybrushing in reverse, wicking away the still-wet wash from the bright areas, and letting it sit in the dark areas. The colors I like for these effects are Typhus Corrosion, Agrax Earthshade, Skeleton Horde, and Nuln Oil, and occasionally mixing in Athonian Camoshade for a more brown/green tone to the aforementioned lineup. Hope that helps!
It's tough, acrylic paints dry really fast. I am not sure there is a perfect comparison, but you can try mixing with heavy amounts of drying retarder and then wiping with water, though I have never tried it.
@@VinceVenturella Vince, thank you for getting back to me. I think I will take both yours and Anthony's ideas and have some fun experimenting with these techniques.
@@Blackchance Anthony thanks for your reply! I will definitely try this out!
when i first started painting, i found large monster so very intimidating but they honestly are more forgiving a canvas than, say, a 28mm infantry model.
100% agreed.
This is great - thanks Vince! If you could include the paints used in the video, that would be helpful. ( I love the streak stuff you used, etc.)
The full paint list is at the front of the video. :) - Glad it was helpful.
really awesome and detailed information, could learn a lot from it :) thanks
Always happy to help !
Hey Vince, I’m still very new to airbrushing, but how are you able to make all of these paints last so long in the airbrush? I feel like you’re spraying your paint for such a long time. Granted, I am using a portable airbrush with an iwata hp-cs; does the portable compressor matter and your actual compressor can push less paint out?
It can matter, but generally, I am working 3-5 minutes because I am using very controlled, lower air flow.
Awesome video! Now I just have to figure out how best apply this to my Durthus.
Oh, very much the same with some browns and stuff, thebig tree lords have wonderful textures. :)
I honestly love painting monsters! Thank you for addressing this topic! Where can I find the Starship Grime? Is it in a set? I did a search and couldn't find it at all. Thanks for so much great content!
-John
I got mine from Michigan Toy Soldier.
Man that looks great and has encouraged me to pull that large monster from my pile of shame! Quick question...did you use the same technique with the grime when painting the rider? Thank you for another great video!
Yes I did, ame technique, if you watch the video previous to this, you can see how I paint the orcs. :)
@@VinceVenturella Thank you!
I don’t really understand the fear of bigger models, I force myself through the fodder models and reward myself with a big dude to paint. More fun and they’re easier to try new techniques on
I completely agree, but I know lots of people are afraid.
Perhaps a stupid question vince, but how do you decide to use enamal vs oil washes?
Oil being something I can customise and tailor, enamal being.. well, one of a few pots of grime.
Both dry slowly, to allow for tinting the paint underneath. Both can be wiped off, or using chemicals to remove more.
I recent did a (free) skink with the goobertown pink undershade -> yellow glaze method. Looks okay (wrong yellow, but it's a concept model) and hit it with enamel all over, wiped it off the raised parts, left it in the recess... looks great, albeit unrefined and unfinished.
But I could've just done an oil wash. What do I gain from an enamel? Just faster drying? The simplicity of a pot?
This was my first attempt with streaking grime, just want to make sure I'm not missing something. Sorry for the many words, might've had a few cans. Did you know painting 14 of your scorched earth bases at once sucks and I regret doing it all at once?
So the answer is just speed yes. It's quicker in drying and easier to then put additional acrylic layers over. I go to oils when I want more control over the colors I am using an so on.
Thank you very much for your videos! You have changed how I approach painting and I am trying new techniques thanks to your videos. I have watched this one in particular many times, and I have started painting my cabbage following your steps. I have some questions if I can take some of your time: Do you thin the Ork flesh/yellow ink mix at the start with your thinner + flow improver 80/20 mix ? What is the ratio of paint/thinner you use for glazing with the airbrush in this case? Same question with the red/flesh you use later on the flesh, and the yellow ink mix for the wings.
Yes, same thinner mix for everything, always at least 2:1 thinner to paint. sometimes more, the key is just always work thinner and you can build it up. Some of them were down to something like 6:1.
Understood, thank you!
Another banger Vince. Question in the streak and grime. Was there a reason behind using that over oils? Was it dry time to get the project done?
Dry time and it leaves a nice patina a little easier.
I’m planning out my own Mawcrusha and focusing on deep rusty-orange/red with a paler warm yellow-orange underside. Would you recommend priming/base coating with in the green-blue-purple before the dry brush stage to capture that complimentary color in the recesses?
Sounds right to me.
I prefer large models, but I am old. I just got into figures, from 1/35 tanks into Verlinden's 120mm line, so I am happy with large models. Though I have a smaller metal dragon I did in Red oil paints. Cheers!
Right on
Amazing work Vince. For airbrushing lacquers, do you recommend the full face mask, covering mouth, nose and eyes? Or lower half face only?
Thanks again for such inspiring videos!
Lower half is fine.
Great video bud :-) I also enjoy painting bigger minis be it a bust or even a larger scare normal figure. They are easier to paint in many ways especially when trying to do things link blending and detail work :-) Sure they take longer becuase of sclae but still I think it helps alot and I have gotten better myself by doing larger stuff makes it easier to work on things.
100% agreed.
I have this guy sitting in the box and I have been wondering when I would get to him. I mainly paint just to paint, I enjoy building and painting an army but I dont really get to play all the often. I have been focused on building a necron army for a year now, and I really want top paint orcs. Kruelboyz and 'ardboys. So these last two videos have been awesome, I love the skintones with the inks you use. Sadly not a single retailer has them in Denmark, so I have to import some if I want. I might be able to find some liquitex inks thou, is there one that is similar in their range of yellows?
Sure, you can find a similar ink in Liquitex, no issue.
Have you tried contacting Faraos Cigarer in Denmark, Thelcon?
I wish i'd see this before I did the big models in my Seraphon army. Another great and inspiring video.
Do you have any tips for the paint consistency in an airbrush? Im struggling to get a smooth finish quote often (i.e its hard to get a zenithal without white dots all over). Only way how i managed so far is to thin the paints down, which gets rid of the splattering but turns them much less opaque where i have to do multiple passes to get the coverage. Do you use any additives besides thinner and flow improver?
You should always be working thin like you see here, very thin. You want to do multiple passes. A pass with the airbrush is like 5 seconds, and that lets you create natural smooth gradients and build colors. Nope, 80/20 Thinner/Flow improver.
Vince - your work is incredible. I don't suppose you have a tutorial on "freshening up" or outright painting the old Aurora Universal Monster models? I just got mine out of storage - and they're awful lol.
Sadly not something I've ever covered.
Amazing video. I've been afraid to paint my maw krusha for a long time, but this makes it look a lot less scary! I'm curious how you would approach one with dark/black scales and maybe a light/whitish belly? Would you start with black/white primer, or use more of a 'real' color and then try to darken/lighten from there?
I would overhighlight like you see here and bring it back down with some black blue ink glazes.
Looks amazing!
Thank you! :)
It's been a while since I whach your videos, still great. Thank you!!!
Welcome back! Always happy to help.
Thanks for the vid! Quick question: since you're already busting out the airbrush, what's the advantage of overbrushing/drybrushing the value sketch instead of setting it with the airbrush?
The texture and what it covers. The airbrush is going to be smooth and cover into the crevasses, I wanted just the higher areas and the texture is rough like scales.
Amazing video. Thank you! I've never used oils or enamels through my airbrush. How do you clean them out? Just repeatedly spray white spirits through it? Getting ready to paint an Flesh Eater Courts army an plan to use your streaking grime technique! 👍🏻👍🏻
Yep, just white spirits to clean
fantastic as always. what psi setting are u using for those ink at close range sprays? last time i was trying to do something similar i felt i had to turn it all the way down to 5 or so, not sure if i was doing it wrong lol.
18PSI, but it's about trigger control, you just have to barely push down and rock the trigger.
All round fantastic ... and great advice!
Always happy to help. :)
People are scared of large monsters? I personally love large monsters. so much easier to do things when the detail is larger, plus they're really fun to paint!
I'm with you!
I've learnt so much from you, this is also another awsome video. Is there any chance to create a speed painting tutorial for chaos space marines including streaking grime in the near future?
I'll see what I can do. :)
@@VinceVenturella Looking forward to it :)
Hey Vince!
Sorry if you’ve answered this already, but what paints/inks would you recommend if I wanted to do reds/oranges rather than greens/yellows?
No issue, just invert the scheme. So use a deep green for the base. Then the same highlight tones. Then Reds into oranges for the highlight glazes over the top. :)
@@VinceVenturella thanks! Will give it a go, this tutorial has been helping me break through a hobby ceiling!
Thank you! That was very helpful, I can’t wait to try this out on a model. Off topic question do you own a cordless sawsall (reciprocating saw)?
I do not, it would be useful to have.
This looks fantastic! I know I'm not gonna be able to do that good of a job in 2 hours, but the techniques are still really helpful. Hopefully I can use them whenever the Kruelboyz stuff comes out.
Exactly, those monsters will be great for this. :)
As other user does, I also struggle with the idea of working with mixed medium paints on my airbrush, like switching from acrylics to enamels, oils... I know the technique from long ago but never put it to use because I thought maybe a better idea would be having a 2nd trashyish airbrush just to work with spirits soluble paints.
Maybe that topic would make for a quick hobby cheating video.
I'll add it to the list, but the key is really just giving it a good cleaning with white spirits. :)
Great video! Is the streaking grime method essentially the same as using an oil wash and wiping off the excess? What is the difference between the two? Thanks
THey are very similar, the streaking grime dries a lot faster. It's a little easier to clean up, it can also produce a nice gradient quite easily working dry. It's also easier to paint over the top with acrylics. That being said, it can certainly be duplicated with oils.
Amazing Vince. 🤘🤘🇧🇷
Thank you!
Vince, when you say "buy an air brush" remember it also means "get a house where you can use an airbrush" and for the latter I don't have the money yet 😅
Watch Ninjon s last video. He is airbrushing on his desk without the portable spray booth for 100 bucks or a home made one. With acrylics you'll be fine. Lacquers get an exhaust
@@ramza813 sound of the compressor + apartment building = annoyed neighbors. Sound of the compressor + small-ish apartment = annoyed significant other. It's not as much about the space, it's about the noise.
@@Donray92 Honestly they're not that loud and you're not running it for 3 hours you'll have it on Maybe 5 minutes to fill up the air tank
@@Donray92 They make can propellant too they don't last as long but they get the job done for a quick airbrush session
Yeah, the compressor, if you get one with a tank, will run very little and they can ultimately be quite quiet. :)
Thank you s much, Vince! What kind of airbrush set (pistol+compressor) do you advise for beginners? For me is useless spend 300/400 euros for a pro set, like Olympos or Iwata ones.
Just a simple master airbrush G22 starter kit, it's $100 and easy for basic tasks.
Rawr monster! Looks fab as always, I’m sure he loves it!
He does, been using it to great effect. :)