Had one since new. Great video explaining this motor. A vote of thanks from Australia. Having been tackling motors all my life this one can test the diagnostics skillset if it plays up although it has been very reliable with meticulous DIY servicing for 14 going into 15 years now.
AMAZING VIDEO. VERY WELL EXPLAINED & VERY THOROUGH. THE BEST TUTORIAL I HAVE HAD. I HAVE BEEN RESEARCHING FOR WEEKS WHERE TO FIND MY MAP SENSORE & WALLLAAAAA!!!!! THANK YOU.
Hey, great video. Very informative. Just wanted to correct the cam and crank sensor. A 2 stroke means the piston fires whenever it reaches tdc which means your cam to open the exhaust ports will be at a 1:1 ratio with the crank. In a 4 stroke engine, your intake and exhaust ports or cam will only be opening once every 2 rotations of the crank. The information was there I think you might have just gotten it mixed up.
This was pretty stream of consciousness, guess I said it backwards as I was running through it. It wasn’t exactly scripted. I guess none of us are paying too close attention to that if it took this long to be noticed.
good tip on that wire swap on the high pressure fuel regulator sensor and the #4 fuel injector. Done exactly that and took me a while to figure that one out.
Great video very educational and good job explaining sensors. I think my cam sensor is out I have crank but no start after I did the rockers new timing belt water pump pulleys etc.
Hey there thank you for your knowledge I have. 2008 crd with p0088 bank 1/ truck drives great first 5 min the. Goes into limp mode I’ve always wanted one and I’m trying to figure out this issue
Really useful video. Mine began by refusing to start when the engine was warm and now it stalls out on me as soon as it gets up to operating temperature. It took me four hours to get home on Christmas Eve, as it ground to a halt for a 1/2 hour rest every mile or so. Looks like I'll be changing out the camshaft and crankshaft sensors. Not looking forward to the crankshaft sensor, it looks like a real pig to get at. But at least I now know exactly where to start, and hopefully I won't have to visit the stealer. They only ever want to start throwing parts at a problem until they find the right one, and they always start with the most expensive ones, usually a control module. Many thanks for taking the time to help out the less knowledgable. In case it helps anyone out in the future, mine threw the fault code (P0725 - Powertrain - Engine speed input circuit) the first few times it happened TorquePro found no codes. It came up with that one only after it had happened 5 or 6 times.
thanks for the great helpful video, i have a jeep 05 2.8 CRD with a start problem which i have been trying to resolve for some time and its getting annoying , it only happens when its been sitting over night, once started with assistance of a spray (start you bastard) which is just a high octane fuel, it starts up and runs fine, even if turned off immediately after it kicks over with no time to warm up and has no problem starting again, i have a new set of 5V glow plugs and thought it may be this as it happens only when cold under 10 degrees C , but while the fuel rail pressure is said to get to 6700psi when cranking on the info im getting from the ECU via a OBD2 link, even so i think it maybe a low pressure issue on the fuel rail and injectors not injecting fuel or perhaps air in the injector pump as there seems to be a lot of air collecting the the fuel filter head all the time, i have eliminated injectors leaking into the cylinders as there is no smoke from the engine exhaust when it finally starts which suggests its a lack of fuel rather then an excess , im under the impression that at time of cranking the pressure control solenoid at the back of the fuel rail will be 100% closed so you can tell if its leaking by putting a hose on the bypass and seeing if any fuel is coming out , ive also changed all the hoses going back to the tank from the fuel filter head, and tried a lift pump for a while which made no difference either . could also be an injector return leaking which is tested with tubes and containers connected to the tops of all the injectors and then measure the amount of fuel bypassing the injector to see if any of them have a larger amount, im waiting on a testing kit to give this a try. out of ideas
Great video my dodge has gone non starter for the second time 🤔 changed top sensor the last time sensor the last time .recommits the crank position sensor. This time but it was high pressure pump 🤑👍🏴🇺🇲🤞
Is this issue with the crank and camshaft sensors affecting also the 2.8 CRD from the Liberty, 177 bhp RA428 DOHC? I come from an Hyundai Santa Fe with the RA420 SOHC and I had the crank and camshaft sensors issues and I they had to be replaced at the same time, but OEM only as aftermarket ones didn't work. Do you know that they also need to be OEM aswell on this engine, or aftermarket works too? Thanks alot!
Hi there. I own a 2.5 CRD Liberty (KJ). I've had an issue on and off now for a few years, and no-one seems to have a decent answer....Initially it would start up fine hot or cold, but the engine would shut down as soon as it got to normal operating temp. This problem had reared its head in the past, and replacing the crank angle sensor would sort it right out.But, the problem just got worse, and then wouldn't start-hot or cold, unless I used engine start. So, when I got the gap, I changed both the crank and Cam sensors (Just to be sure), and sure enough, the engine fired up, and ran, YAAY---3 days later I was back where I started. Engine cranks but no start !! Run starts every time no issue ! A couple months back I replaced my fuel filter and filter housing. The last time I replaced the fuel filter, I noticed the (Cheap-ass) hand pump on the housing had worn internally, so when it came time to replace the filter, I just replaced the whole lot. Well, wouldn't you believe when I tried to start it, it fired right up and ran great---for 2 weeks,and now I'm back to my engine start spray......Unfortunately , I am handicapped with not having an ECU reader of any sorts to attempt to diagnose any issues or sensors. Any info you could throw my way would be greatly appreciated. ISSUE 1) No start ISSUE 2) Really randomly, engine will shut down at any rev/ Temp.
Could you please tell me if what exactly is involved in replacing a Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor? Do I need to depressurize the rail before I remove the old sensor or anything like that?
Awesome video. Same engine in my 06 Jeep Liberty I just recently purchased. I plugged the OBD reader and it says cylinder 3 misfire and glow plug #4 (not sufficient)(?) It was running for about 5-10 mins then it stalled and wouldn’t stay running after that. And it would take about 3-5 mins to crank before it turns over only for it to stall about 1-2 seconds later 😣😑. This Jeep only has 90,000 miles on it and Im open to any ideas. Thanks. And also I’m trying to get that EGR elbow off. I got the 4 bolts off and the one behind the dipstick but still wouldn’t come off. Thanks
Cool. I could have used this 1 year ago. My crank sensor was bad. It took my a while to figure it out with The assistance of the lost jeeps forum. The wire in the pigtail of the sensor was completely cooked. Like you said there was no indication in the codes. Can you recommend a code reader that has more than basic features like your talking about. Something that's affordable for a guy at home.
Generally the ELM bluetooth code readers can do a lot with a paid purchase App on a smart phone, be careful about which ones work with Apple devices. This Autel: amzn.to/2SjWKiD Is a little pricey, but supports an amazing amount of features and vehicles. It can read information from even the very obscure modules like the OCM (passenger seat Occupant Classification Module) and reset these. It also offers realtime custom trends and the ability to export data to the SD Card. It might be overkill for many home wrenchers, but it can be updated via the SD card and it supports so many vehicles that its a tool you ought to be able to use for a long time in the future.
hi there, just need your expertise... what would be the cause of the engine starts longer than normal, it would take a minute before it gets going but sometimes it takes only a few seconds. thanks!
We have a 2005 Liberty with 50,000 miles in great condition. We were driving it in the city. It just suddenly quit. We took it to the Jeep dealer who said that they did not have the diagnostic equipment that goes back that far and therefore refused to work on it. Your video is excellent, but you probably live in Colorado (based on your handle). We live in Shreveport, Louisiana and are not mechanics. What do you suggest? Is it worth anything? Many thanks. Al
You would have better luck with an independent diesel mechanic these days than the dealer. I don’t have any recommendations for you in your area, some Facebook groups or lostjeeps.com forum folks might be able to recommend a mechanic around your parts who has worked on them. These are still desirable vehicles in good condition, sadly non running projects are not terribly valuable. There are always people like me who are looking to pickup a project, I’ve bought more than a few, and to give them a solid mechanical going through usually ends up costing me about 2k with my free labor, thus expect it can be costly for a mechanic, and not terribly valuable as a project when you can buy running jeeps these days for 3k and up. Yours being low mileage will have more value. Can you describe what did happen when it “suddenly stopped”?
I have and 05 jeep liberty and going down the road at low speeds just dies, with no codes at all, i hear the crank sensor may cause that what do you think, i have had 6 of these diesels at one time, got the DRB 3 ,
Hey there! Has anyone had an issue with a CRD engine. It starts OK in the morning but as soon it gets some temperature or a hot day, The engine won’t start. It will crank but it won’t start. Thank you for any advice.
Hi, nice vid, thanks. I've got a '08 JKU with the 177hp 2.8 CRD with a turbo issue (seemingly). It loses power when reaching 2k rpm and won't rev higher, seems like the engine goes into limping mode as if the turbo gets bypassed and check engine light shows up. On top of that code readers including the Jeep dealer's one can't establish communications with the ECU, it tries and tries but doesn't find it.... Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Sorry to say We never got the diesel JK in the US so I am not so familiar with it. However your symptom does sound like what can happen with the fuel filter gets plugged up. How long since it was replaced?
@@IcarusOffroad Thanks for your quick reaction! Well, that's indeed something that has to be done! Got the filter waiting to be installed. Guess that's the next step.
Hey nice video my friend , I am trying to learn is much as I can about the 2.8 vm motori , I am thinking about buying a Jeep jk 2.8 crd but i am afraid of the reliability of the 2.8 engine because i want to use it as a long distance road trip vehicle ,I am also considering a Toyota Prado with the proven d4d engine but it’s just boring and ugly compared to the jk ,do you consider the 2.8 vm motori as a reliable engine ?
I think Toyota always wins in reliability. However mine has been very good to me but I did some modifications. If I were to buy a used CRD today and want to take it on long trips I would do the following for reliability. Remove head and replace exhaust and intake values with new valves. The exhaust valves on engines that have had EGR running for the past 15 years have a higher failure rate. New head gasket and ARP head studies. New rockers. Complete timing belt kit/water pump. Replace alternator/tensioner as needed. Replace fuel heater head with newer type. Instal dodge Cummins in take lift pump. Tune EGR off in ECU. Always run 15w-40 diesel oil. Install large transmission cooler and not use stock transmission cooler. Upgrade turbo hoses to silicon samco hoses. It’s a fair amount of work and expense. If you can do that work yourself it’s not bad. With the above I would feel confident in driving a CRD across continents.
I’m working with Autel MaxiCom. I’m a few months into throwing parts at mine. Crank no start Replaced: -fuel pressure sensor -fuel pressure solenoid -fuel filter housing -fuel filter -cam sensor 2x -crank sensor -MAP sensor And I installed a lift pump and harness along with new fuel lines at tank
Any suggestions for a 2006 jeep liberty crd , that shutters at times when idling and at 1700 rpm , goes away when rpm's goes to 2000 , it seems to be the engine - checked torque converter, had transmission serviced , motor mounts checked , transmission mount replaced, had a front end alignment and tires balanced .I can't get the 4th injector out ( it's stuck in ) to check it yet .I'm going to put new seals and crush washers on all injectors
Terry Lewis hey man mine does it (if you talk about bogging while driving slow) and it’s because it tries to get on overdrive to fast and want to die so just push the button and once you get on the highway put it back on
Hi! Liked your video! I'm Portuguese and I have a Jeep Wrangler 2.8 CRD (2010 JK) ....only 43.000 kms and since last year I started to have some problems starting the engine from time to time and now it's doing more often (maybe 2 or 3 times in a month) although it starts usually at 2nd attempt. I took my Jeep to the dealer and they told me the machine didn't found anything wrong and they even tested several times after leaving my car during the night at special cold day. I don't feel any loss of pressure while driving it but I'm worried by the reply from the dealer (it's a Fiat/Jeep official Dealer) ... any clue or suggestion? Many Thanks...obrigado!!
It may be related to air in fuel, or even glow plug failures. If the problem is worse when its colder out I would lean towards possible glow plug issues. If cold or warm doesn't make a difference then I might think about air in fuel. I'm not familar with the diesel JK as it was not sold in the USA but you should look at if you have a filter head with manual pump and bleed screw. If so check and see how much air you can get out. Its also possible your fuel rail is draining and it just takes a little while for the rail to fill again before the engine will start. I would recommend you head over to the lostjeeps.com CRD section where you might be able to find some more recommendations.
@@IcarusOffroad Many Thanks! It was very helpfull...yes it seems to happen more with cold weather! I will take your advice...all the best and ... muito obrigado!
Hi, I have a question, my 2.8 crd vibrates at idle like crazy. We already changed motor mounts, injectors, transmission mounts, torque converter and it still vibrates. The camshafts seem to be misaligned for some reason however. The car runs smooth when I hit the throttle even a tiny bit
D. Sidor what makes you think the cams are misaligned? Mine are pretty shakey at idle and do smooth out when you start to give them throttle. It’s hard to really say if yours is extra shakey without seeing it in person. I mean they are diesel, so some Shakeyness is expected.
Great video, even though I don't know anything about engines. I have the opportunity to buy an 05 CRD with 190k miles on it. He's asking $3995. Is there anything I should be wary of when I check it out, and does that price sound about right for that mileage?
Juan Smithe I would really recommend you check out the CRD section at lostjeeps and check out the noob guide. The group there can give you suggestions on current pricing as well.
Great video and I have a question: I recently did a motor swap on one. It’s an 05 to with an 06 motor. It cranks and acts like it wants to start but never fires up. It only ran twice after constant hard cranking and after I shut it off it won’t start up until hours later. It runs like a champ too. The cam and crank sensor is brand new and those two infamous wires are not backwards. I’m thinking it’s the fuel rails sensor or the fuel pressure solenoid. Any ideas? And is there a way to test out those two sensors?
Malik McDowell’s wrecked ATV these are best checked with a good code reader to read sensor data. There are WiFi or Bluetooth setups for phones that are good for this. There is also a regulating valve on the back of the injection pump. It is held in with some torx screws. You could try swapping this from your old engine if you still have it. Same goes for rail sensors. These engines also need a fully charged battery, they can crank nicely but just have low enough voltage not to fire injectors correctly.
COrobotchicken the only problem is a former mechanic never returned the valve cover from the old engine thus all the sensors were included on to it. We have ZR13 scanners from harbor and freight and it’s throwing a P0340 camshaft circuit code but that sensor is brand new, and the connector is reading 5 volts, within spec. We do have the old fuel pump and that sensor is still hooked to it so I’ll swap it out. The battery is fully charged as we have a charger hooked up to it. Do you know what those Bluetooth or WiFi apps are called?
Malik McDowell’s wrecked ATV there are lots of elm327 adapters, apple usually needs WiFi’s versions, and android can use Bluetooth. Torque is a good one for Android. There are a fair number of different apps out there for them, and lots of different readers.
My CRD starts but seems to be injecting fuel on all four cylinders at same time.. cuasing a steady knock on the Compression stroke of a second cylinder and cuasing excessive exhaust and no power. This issue started as a periodic engine malfunction where the engine ran fine then would run like crap for 1 minute or so then recovered.... 3 weeks later it did that again for 40 seconds then recovered for another week then ran again knocking and leaving soot trail no power again about 1.25 minutes then recovered... 1 hour later began this again and hasnt fixed itself... is this perhaps Cam and crank sensor mismatch? Or what might be the problem.... the engine has 112,000 miles exact? Dealer cannot seem to diagnose this problem... they claim a miss in a cylinder according to the computer but sooty exhaust and steady knock doesnt make sense also the high rev sounds like the engine computer is advancing searching for proper engine timing advance of injection of fuel?
Sounds like failed rockers. Pull the intake /intercooler outlet hose. Then place your hand at the air intake butteryfly valve and feel for puffs of air. If so you need a pretty extensive service going beyond the timing belt job and pulling the combination intake manifold and valve cover to access the rockers. This is a pretty common failure on engines that ran the recommended oil, as it’s too thin, and engines that have had heavy EGR use.
@@IcarusOffroad see this I dont buy becuase of the way the symptoms developed... the fact that it occurred 3 weeks before and then went away then came back knocking and then went away for 3 days then came back for 45 seconds then went away for 1 and a half hours then has stayed.. I dont believe for the life of me that its failed rockers... the only code it gives is a cylinder misfire in cyl 3... new injectors have been installed the puff is in both the exhaust and intake but it also sounds like the engine is dumping fuel in all cylinders constant cuasing black sooty smoke on higher excelleration... like its just dumping fuel on exhaust stroke... I did follow maintenance reccomendations to the tee since it was new with 0 w 40 full synthetic oil changes at 8000 miles intervals... Ive also been told the Temp sensor and ambient air temp sensors could be shorting the 5v supply voltage to the remaining sensors cuasing fluctuating currents across the board... Im debating replacing all sensors... I just threw a reman ecm, injectors, replaced the glow plugs, the fuel filter head, had the Timing belt replaced at 119980 and belt tensioner on the serpentine drive belt, the torsion pulley on the alternator, 2 sets of tires... 2 torque converters, trans oil pump, 4 turbo chargers, egr valve, 4 ECMs, 1 tail lamp bulb.... thats pretty much all the maint thats been done... the engine only has 112,000 miles on it. If it were failed rockers please explain to me why the misfiring/knocking came and went and came and went and came and went and then came and stayed? Over about a 2 month period of time. And what engine oil do you suggest... I would prefer to run 15w40 Rotella or Delo 400 15w40.. but VM Motori reccomends 0w40 full synthetic
@@IcarusOffroad before I do that at 112,000 miles Ill change the cam and crank position sensors and try that... along with perhaps another sensor or two cheaper to do and I really dont think the rockers did that yet not the way this happened
Could be so many things. Start with the basics, how long since the fuel filter has been changed? Is there lots of air in the filter head when you bleed it? Does the problem happen more when the engine is cold or hot?
I'm in the middle of doing my timing belt and soon replacing my rocker arms. What have you been doing with the big cables running across the top for the engine when doing the vavke cover and rocker arm job??? Its tight on the engine and I'm not sure what to do. Thanks
Nick Pauletto I remove the harness and lay it over the driver fender. There are 4 plugs on the pass side by the ac accumulator, they are on a bracket that is held down with a 10mm in the middle. Remove the 10mm and then it’s easier to undo the plugs. There is also a bolt holding a ground strap. You will need to undo the trans plug as well. Get the coolant reservoir out of the way and then you can pull the harness all the way over to the drivers side. It’s not much more work but it’s pretty critical for being able to install the valve cover. Also get some or make valve cover alignment pins to reinstall, and follow the torque sequence when you install it. If doing ARP head bolt verify they do not hit the intake manifold on the exhaust side. Use thick grease to help get the rockers to stick to the valves.
@@IcarusOffroad watched your videos many times. Thanks again for all the time you spent making these. Greatly appreciated. By the way what is the thread on the alignment pins or can i get away with proper sized drill bits? Your thought.
@@IcarusOffroad Got the the harness this morning. Done. Oh my god!!!! Am I going to have the take the mounts off the tilt the engine forward to get to the back sensor connectors and later get better clearance for the cover??? By the way...the transmission dipstick tube is sooooo in the way.
No need to tilt the engine or anything. The rear plugs are awkward but accessible. Grab the bolts that bolted down the intake and take one with you to the hardware store to find a matching thread. The alignment pins are 2" long and screw into holes for the intake bolts, NOT the injector crows feet. Just get some bolts that match the thread and cut the head off, or allthread.
At least for this engine that is not an issue. While it is high pressure it is very low volume. There is no accumulator on this system. Even cracking a fuel line with the engine running just leads to a fuel drip and an engine that stalls from lack of pressure.
No. There is no TPS since this is drive by wire. The gas pedal assembly (APPS) is the closet thing to a TPS and it reads the driver demand directly at the pedal.
@@IcarusOffroad oh ok thanks. I'm diagnosing a crank no start failure during operation right now and did the key on off on off thing and got a code possibility relating to the pedal or a sensor that sees input from it. 🤷♂️
its all too easy to ask a question about an engine fault as sometimes there could be multiple reasons for the problem and most of the time its just not the same as being there to be able listen to it, just like music.
I am having intermittent issues and throw the code P0192: "Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit A low". I can drive it for a couple of days with no problem but then I will go into a quasi limp mode where the engine doesn't like to rev above 2000 RPM. I can still get up to highway speeds but acceleration is terrible. No smoke. Transmission seems to be shifting funky due to strange RPMs. Oh and when I put it into park or neutral it sounds/feels like its on the verge of choking out, but seems to keep running like that indefinitely. Would a bad sensor cause these symptoms, or does that code mean the sensor is working correctly and I have low rail pressure?
@@IcarusOffroad So I changed the fuel and air filters a few weeks back and I'm still having the same issues. I can build pressure in the fuel head by manually pumping and I can bleed all the air out after about 3 bleeds. But every time I check it I have more air in the head. The fuel heater plug looks fine, no discoloring, melting, or diesel leaking out. I'm going to take the head off again today and examine it closely for cracks/defects, and make sure I got filter/water sensor on correctly. You think the air in the fuel is causing the low rail pressure? I've also read that bad wiring/connections from the fuel pressure/quantity solenoids and fuel pressure sensor can cause these symptoms. I'm not really sure what the best way is to isolate a fuel leak under negative pressure.
Usually not! The rockers are a designed failure point. If the belt slips or breaks the rockers will snap in two. However depending on the circumstances it’s still possible for the valves to bend. But they usually don’t. I have some videos showing how to pressure test to verify that the valves still seal correct. That being said the exhaust valves seem to have a high rate of failure, and if you drop a valve into a piston that will pretty much trash an engine. If you are at the point of replacing rockers I recommend pulling the head and replacing all of the exhaust valves. The engine pictured above actually got used in my personal Jeep because I had a valve drop shortly after replacing bad rockers.
@@IcarusOffroad thanks for the info. Its an engine in a van at the scrap yard. There asking £500 as is with suspected broken cam belt. Think ill leave it there. Thanks again.
Great Information! Just bought a KJ as a weekend project, helped me learn hours of frustration in 20mins!! Cheers from AU
I’m glad you found it helpful. Just happy to help other enthusiasts with these quirky little Jeeps.
@@IcarusOffroad hi
CORRECTION : CRANK turns TWICE for every SINGLE rotation of CAMSHAFT.
Got what I was looking for in this video thanks, it was faulty Pump Solenoid.
Had one since new. Great video explaining this motor. A vote of thanks from Australia. Having been tackling motors all my life this one can test the diagnostics skillset if it plays up although it has been very reliable with meticulous DIY servicing for 14 going into 15 years now.
AMAZING VIDEO. VERY WELL EXPLAINED & VERY THOROUGH. THE BEST TUTORIAL I HAVE HAD. I HAVE BEEN RESEARCHING FOR WEEKS WHERE TO FIND MY MAP SENSORE & WALLLAAAAA!!!!! THANK YOU.
Thank you for your detalied instruction, much helpful for me. I have 2014 CRD JKU, EGR looks different of mine.
Thanks a lot man, switch the #4 injector with the pressure regulator, THANKS FOR YOUR VIDEO
Hey, great video. Very informative. Just wanted to correct the cam and crank sensor. A 2 stroke means the piston fires whenever it reaches tdc which means your cam to open the exhaust ports will be at a 1:1 ratio with the crank. In a 4 stroke engine, your intake and exhaust ports or cam will only be opening once every 2 rotations of the crank. The information was there I think you might have just gotten it mixed up.
This was pretty stream of consciousness, guess I said it backwards as I was running through it. It wasn’t exactly scripted. I guess none of us are paying too close attention to that if it took this long to be noticed.
good tip on that wire swap on the high pressure fuel regulator sensor and the #4 fuel injector. Done exactly that and took me a while to figure that one out.
Fantastic video. These engines are in London Black Cabs! Very Helpful Thanks!
Great video very educational and good job explaining sensors. I think my cam sensor is out I have crank but no start after I did the rockers new timing belt water pump pulleys etc.
Amazing video great content.
Very informative. A++
great video, very informative. I was searching for crank sensor, now I now where to dig. Thanks.
Excellent job. A-Lot of great info. Thank you for making this video.
No problem, I hope you find the information useful in the future.
Extremely useful information
Hey there thank you for your knowledge I have. 2008 crd with p0088 bank 1/ truck drives great first 5 min the. Goes into limp mode I’ve always wanted one and I’m trying to figure out this issue
The one thing I needed information on is the one thing you didn't discuss. 😅 The actual fuel pump.
Very good master
thanks for posting this.
Top tier info! 👍👊
Really useful video. Mine began by refusing to start when the engine was warm and now it stalls out on me as soon as it gets up to operating temperature. It took me four hours to get home on Christmas Eve, as it ground to a halt for a 1/2 hour rest every mile or so. Looks like I'll be changing out the camshaft and crankshaft sensors. Not looking forward to the crankshaft sensor, it looks like a real pig to get at. But at least I now know exactly where to start, and hopefully I won't have to visit the stealer. They only ever want to start throwing parts at a problem until they find the right one, and they always start with the most expensive ones, usually a control module. Many thanks for taking the time to help out the less knowledgable.
In case it helps anyone out in the future, mine threw the fault code (P0725 - Powertrain - Engine speed input circuit) the first few times it happened TorquePro found no codes. It came up with that one only after it had happened 5 or 6 times.
thanks for the great helpful video, i have a jeep 05 2.8 CRD with a start problem which i have been trying to resolve for some time and its getting annoying , it only happens when its been sitting over night, once started with assistance of a spray (start you bastard) which is just a high octane fuel, it starts up and runs fine, even if turned off immediately after it kicks over with no time to warm up and has no problem starting again, i have a new set of 5V glow plugs and thought it may be this as it happens only when cold under 10 degrees C , but while the fuel rail pressure is said to get to 6700psi when cranking on the info im getting from the ECU via a OBD2 link, even so i think it maybe a low pressure issue on the fuel rail and injectors not injecting fuel or perhaps air in the injector pump as there seems to be a lot of air collecting the the fuel filter head all the time, i have eliminated injectors leaking into the cylinders as there is no smoke from the engine exhaust when it finally starts which suggests its a lack of fuel rather then an excess , im under the impression that at time of cranking the pressure control solenoid at the back of the fuel rail will be 100% closed so you can tell if its leaking by putting a hose on the bypass and seeing if any fuel is coming out , ive also changed all the hoses going back to the tank from the fuel filter head, and tried a lift pump for a while which made no difference either . could also be an injector return leaking which is tested with tubes and containers connected to the tops of all the injectors and then measure the amount of fuel bypassing the injector to see if any of them have a larger amount, im waiting on a testing kit to give this a try. out of ideas
Have you tried leaving a battery charger on it overnight when there is one of these nights where it gets cold enough not to start?
If you are getting air in the fuel head overnight you have bad hoses or the fuel head has a crack in it.
Great video my dodge has gone non starter for the second time 🤔 changed top sensor the last time sensor the last time .recommits the crank position sensor. This time but it was high pressure pump 🤑👍🏴🇺🇲🤞
Excellent video! Many thanks.
Is this issue with the crank and camshaft sensors affecting also the 2.8 CRD from the Liberty, 177 bhp RA428 DOHC? I come from an Hyundai Santa Fe with the RA420 SOHC and I had the crank and camshaft sensors issues and I they had to be replaced at the same time, but OEM only as aftermarket ones didn't work. Do you know that they also need to be OEM aswell on this engine, or aftermarket works too? Thanks alot!
Hi there. I own a 2.5 CRD Liberty (KJ). I've had an issue on and off now for a few years, and no-one seems to have a decent answer....Initially it would start up fine hot or cold, but the engine would shut down as soon as it got to normal operating temp. This problem had reared its head in the past, and replacing the crank angle sensor would sort it right out.But, the problem just got worse, and then wouldn't start-hot or cold, unless I used engine start. So, when I got the gap, I changed both the crank and Cam sensors (Just to be sure), and sure enough, the engine fired up, and ran, YAAY---3 days later I was back where I started. Engine cranks but no start !! Run starts every time no issue ! A couple months back I replaced my fuel filter and filter housing. The last time I replaced the fuel filter, I noticed the (Cheap-ass) hand pump on the housing had worn internally, so when it came time to replace the filter, I just replaced the whole lot. Well, wouldn't you believe when I tried to start it, it fired right up and ran great---for 2 weeks,and now I'm back to my engine start spray......Unfortunately , I am handicapped with not having an ECU reader of any sorts to attempt to diagnose any issues or sensors. Any info you could throw my way would be greatly appreciated.
ISSUE 1) No start
ISSUE 2) Really randomly, engine will shut down at any rev/ Temp.
Mate, Sounds like she's fucked..
Thank you
Great video. Very helpful cheers.
great info t
hank you
Thanks for sharing useful information. Cheers!
Lovely very informative thanks
Great video 🫡
Nice one buddy
Una domanda, tutti questi sensori e consigliato pulirli?
Great lot of information there will save this vid for future reference
Could you please tell me if what exactly is involved in replacing a Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor?
Do I need to depressurize the rail before I remove the old sensor or anything like that?
Awesome video. Same engine in my 06 Jeep Liberty I just recently purchased. I plugged the OBD reader and it says cylinder 3 misfire and glow plug #4 (not sufficient)(?) It was running for about 5-10 mins then it stalled and wouldn’t stay running after that. And it would take about 3-5 mins to crank before it turns over only for it to stall about 1-2 seconds later 😣😑. This Jeep only has 90,000 miles on it and Im open to any ideas. Thanks. And also I’m trying to get that EGR elbow off. I got the 4 bolts off and the one behind the dipstick but still wouldn’t come off. Thanks
Cool. I could have used this 1 year ago. My crank sensor was bad. It took my a while to figure it out with The assistance of the lost jeeps forum. The wire in the pigtail of the sensor was completely cooked. Like you said there was no indication in the codes. Can you recommend a code reader that has more than basic features like your talking about. Something that's affordable for a guy at home.
Generally the ELM bluetooth code readers can do a lot with a paid purchase App on a smart phone, be careful about which ones work with Apple devices.
This Autel: amzn.to/2SjWKiD
Is a little pricey, but supports an amazing amount of features and vehicles. It can read information from even the very obscure modules like the OCM (passenger seat Occupant Classification Module) and reset these. It also offers realtime custom trends and the ability to export data to the SD Card. It might be overkill for many home wrenchers, but it can be updated via the SD card and it supports so many vehicles that its a tool you ought to be able to use for a long time in the future.
LDV Maxus van has the same engine, I wonder if the jeep has the same trouble starting in cold weather ?
Excellent mate are they the same as chrysler voyager 2.8 crd
hi there, just need your expertise... what would be the cause of the engine starts longer than normal, it would take a minute before it gets going but sometimes it takes only a few seconds. thanks!
The injector clamp bolts are they stretch ones doe they have to be replaced every time , many thanks 👍
They are not TTY (torque to yield) they can be reused as long as they are in good condition.
We have a 2005 Liberty with 50,000 miles in great condition. We were driving it in the city. It just suddenly quit. We took it to the Jeep dealer who said that they did not have the diagnostic equipment that goes back that far and therefore refused to work on it. Your video is excellent, but you probably live in Colorado (based on your handle). We live in Shreveport, Louisiana and are not mechanics. What do you suggest? Is it worth anything? Many thanks. Al
You would have better luck with an independent diesel mechanic these days than the dealer. I don’t have any recommendations for you in your area, some Facebook groups or lostjeeps.com forum folks might be able to recommend a mechanic around your parts who has worked on them. These are still desirable vehicles in good condition, sadly non running projects are not terribly valuable. There are always people like me who are looking to pickup a project, I’ve bought more than a few, and to give them a solid mechanical going through usually ends up costing me about 2k with my free labor, thus expect it can be costly for a mechanic, and not terribly valuable as a project when you can buy running jeeps these days for 3k and up. Yours being low mileage will have more value. Can you describe what did happen when it “suddenly stopped”?
My 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 diesel cranks up and run until you start going and then it shuts off do you have any tips for me
found one for sale
Owner saying crankshaft bearings span.
Just wondering did u see engine with same problem?
I have and 05 jeep liberty and going down the road at low speeds just dies, with no codes at all, i hear the crank sensor may cause that what do you think, i have had 6 of these diesels at one time, got the DRB 3 ,
That high pressure rail runs about 25 to 32, 000 psi when running,
I cant remove the inyectors 1 and 2 and im running out of ideas of how to take them off. Any ideas?
Could the shutting off while driving be a fuel pump failure?
Mine kicks out black smoke when I pull off but stop’s when I’m going along
If I use a bit of quick start it starts up but go's I to a limp home mode when I try to drive it?
It refuses to start without quick start hot or cold
Hey did you figure it out I have the same issue
Hey there! Has anyone had an issue with a CRD engine. It starts OK in the morning but as soon it gets some temperature or a hot day, The engine won’t start. It will crank but it won’t start. Thank you for any advice.
Hi, nice vid, thanks. I've got a '08 JKU with the 177hp 2.8 CRD with a turbo issue (seemingly). It loses power when reaching 2k rpm and won't rev higher, seems like the engine goes into limping mode as if the turbo gets bypassed and check engine light shows up. On top of that code readers including the Jeep dealer's one can't establish communications with the ECU, it tries and tries but doesn't find it.... Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Sorry to say We never got the diesel JK in the US so I am not so familiar with it. However your symptom does sound like what can happen with the fuel filter gets plugged up. How long since it was replaced?
@@IcarusOffroad Thanks for your quick reaction!
Well, that's indeed something that has to be done! Got the filter waiting to be installed. Guess that's the next step.
hi i have 2006 jeep grand cherokee 3.0 crd i cannot find engine number. where can i find this
Thank you
Help? I'm getting a P2016-00 error
Hey nice video my friend , I am trying to learn is much as I can about the 2.8 vm motori , I am thinking about buying a Jeep jk 2.8 crd but i am afraid of the reliability of the 2.8 engine because i want to use it as a long distance road trip vehicle ,I am also considering a Toyota Prado with the proven d4d engine but it’s just boring and ugly compared to the jk ,do you consider the 2.8 vm motori as a reliable engine ?
I think Toyota always wins in reliability. However mine has been very good to me but I did some modifications. If I were to buy a used CRD today and want to take it on long trips I would do the following for reliability. Remove head and replace exhaust and intake values with new valves. The exhaust valves on engines that have had EGR running for the past 15 years have a higher failure rate. New head gasket and ARP head studies. New rockers. Complete timing belt kit/water pump. Replace alternator/tensioner as needed. Replace fuel heater head with newer type. Instal dodge Cummins in take lift pump. Tune EGR off in ECU. Always run 15w-40 diesel oil. Install large transmission cooler and not use stock transmission cooler. Upgrade turbo hoses to silicon samco hoses. It’s a fair amount of work and expense. If you can do that work yourself it’s not bad. With the above I would feel confident in driving a CRD across continents.
@@IcarusOffroad I really appreciate that you took the time for such a helpful answer my friend , it helped allot !! Thanks for that !
@@12Achilleas no problem. Good luck. There is a great owners forum at lostjeeps.com also ausjeepoffroad has a number of knowledgeable people.
@@IcarusOffroad I will defiantly have a look , I really appreciate it
How much fuel pressure do I need to read before engine will fire?
I’m working with Autel MaxiCom. I’m a few months into throwing parts at mine. Crank no start
Replaced:
-fuel pressure sensor
-fuel pressure solenoid
-fuel filter housing
-fuel filter
-cam sensor 2x
-crank sensor
-MAP sensor
And I installed a lift pump and harness along with new fuel lines at tank
Any suggestions for a 2006 jeep liberty crd , that shutters at times when idling and at 1700 rpm , goes away when rpm's goes to 2000 , it seems to be the engine - checked torque converter, had transmission serviced , motor mounts checked , transmission mount replaced, had a front end alignment and tires balanced .I can't get the 4th injector out ( it's stuck in ) to check it yet .I'm going to put new seals and crush washers on all injectors
Terry Lewis hey man mine does it (if you talk about bogging while driving slow) and it’s because it tries to get on overdrive to fast and want to die so just push the button and once you get on the highway put it back on
Hi! Liked your video! I'm Portuguese and I have a Jeep Wrangler 2.8 CRD (2010 JK) ....only 43.000 kms and since last year I started to have some problems starting the engine from time to time and now it's doing more often (maybe 2 or 3 times in a month) although it starts usually at 2nd attempt. I took my Jeep to the dealer and they told me the machine didn't found anything wrong and they even tested several times after leaving my car during the night at special cold day. I don't feel any loss of pressure while driving it but I'm worried by the reply from the dealer (it's a Fiat/Jeep official Dealer) ... any clue or suggestion? Many Thanks...obrigado!!
It may be related to air in fuel, or even glow plug failures. If the problem is worse when its colder out I would lean towards possible glow plug issues. If cold or warm doesn't make a difference then I might think about air in fuel. I'm not familar with the diesel JK as it was not sold in the USA but you should look at if you have a filter head with manual pump and bleed screw. If so check and see how much air you can get out. Its also possible your fuel rail is draining and it just takes a little while for the rail to fill again before the engine will start. I would recommend you head over to the lostjeeps.com CRD section where you might be able to find some more recommendations.
@@IcarusOffroad Many Thanks! It was very helpfull...yes it seems to happen more with cold weather! I will take your advice...all the best and ... muito obrigado!
Hi, I have a question, my 2.8 crd vibrates at idle like crazy. We already changed motor mounts, injectors, transmission mounts, torque converter and it still vibrates. The camshafts seem to be misaligned for some reason however. The car runs smooth when I hit the throttle even a tiny bit
D. Sidor what makes you think the cams are misaligned? Mine are pretty shakey at idle and do smooth out when you start to give them throttle. It’s hard to really say if yours is extra shakey without seeing it in person. I mean they are diesel, so some Shakeyness is expected.
Great video, even though I don't know anything about engines. I have the opportunity to buy an 05 CRD with 190k miles on it. He's asking $3995. Is there anything I should be wary of when I check it out, and does that price sound about right for that mileage?
Juan Smithe I would really recommend you check out the CRD section at lostjeeps and check out the noob guide. The group there can give you suggestions on current pricing as well.
@@IcarusOffroad Thanks a lot for the quick reply
Great video and I have a question:
I recently did a motor swap on one. It’s an 05 to with an 06 motor. It cranks and acts like it wants to start but never fires up. It only ran twice after constant hard cranking and after I shut it off it won’t start up until hours later. It runs like a champ too. The cam and crank sensor is brand new and those two infamous wires are not backwards. I’m thinking it’s the fuel rails sensor or the fuel pressure solenoid. Any ideas? And is there a way to test out those two sensors?
Malik McDowell’s wrecked ATV these are best checked with a good code reader to read sensor data. There are WiFi or Bluetooth setups for phones that are good for this. There is also a regulating valve on the back of the injection pump. It is held in with some torx screws. You could try swapping this from your old engine if you still have it. Same goes for rail sensors. These engines also need a fully charged battery, they can crank nicely but just have low enough voltage not to fire injectors correctly.
Malik McDowell’s wrecked ATV also, the lostjeeps.com CRD section is a great resource with collective knowledge for these.
COrobotchicken the only problem is a former mechanic never returned the valve cover from the old engine thus all the sensors were included on to it. We have ZR13 scanners from harbor and freight and it’s throwing a P0340 camshaft circuit code but that sensor is brand new, and the connector is reading 5 volts, within spec. We do have the old fuel pump and that sensor is still hooked to it so I’ll swap it out. The battery is fully charged as we have a charger hooked up to it. Do you know what those Bluetooth or WiFi apps are called?
Malik McDowell’s wrecked ATV there are lots of elm327 adapters, apple usually needs WiFi’s versions, and android can use Bluetooth. Torque is a good one for Android. There are a fair number of different apps out there for them, and lots of different readers.
COrobotchicken thanks for the help! I’ll look into it
My CRD starts but seems to be injecting fuel on all four cylinders at same time.. cuasing a steady knock on the Compression stroke of a second cylinder and cuasing excessive exhaust and no power. This issue started as a periodic engine malfunction where the engine ran fine then would run like crap for 1 minute or so then recovered.... 3 weeks later it did that again for 40 seconds then recovered for another week then ran again knocking and leaving soot trail no power again about 1.25 minutes then recovered... 1 hour later began this again and hasnt fixed itself... is this perhaps Cam and crank sensor mismatch? Or what might be the problem.... the engine has 112,000 miles exact? Dealer cannot seem to diagnose this problem... they claim a miss in a cylinder according to the computer but sooty exhaust and steady knock doesnt make sense also the high rev sounds like the engine computer is advancing searching for proper engine timing advance of injection of fuel?
Sounds like failed rockers. Pull the intake /intercooler outlet hose. Then place your hand at the air intake butteryfly valve and feel for puffs of air. If so you need a pretty extensive service going beyond the timing belt job and pulling the combination intake manifold and valve cover to access the rockers. This is a pretty common failure on engines that ran the recommended oil, as it’s too thin, and engines that have had heavy EGR use.
@@IcarusOffroad see this I dont buy becuase of the way the symptoms developed... the fact that it occurred 3 weeks before and then went away then came back knocking and then went away for 3 days then came back for 45 seconds then went away for 1 and a half hours then has stayed.. I dont believe for the life of me that its failed rockers... the only code it gives is a cylinder misfire in cyl 3... new injectors have been installed the puff is in both the exhaust and intake but it also sounds like the engine is dumping fuel in all cylinders constant cuasing black sooty smoke on higher excelleration... like its just dumping fuel on exhaust stroke... I did follow maintenance reccomendations to the tee since it was new with 0 w 40 full synthetic oil changes at 8000 miles intervals... Ive also been told the Temp sensor and ambient air temp sensors could be shorting the 5v supply voltage to the remaining sensors cuasing fluctuating currents across the board... Im debating replacing all sensors... I just threw a reman ecm, injectors, replaced the glow plugs, the fuel filter head, had the Timing belt replaced at 119980 and belt tensioner on the serpentine drive belt, the torsion pulley on the alternator, 2 sets of tires... 2 torque converters, trans oil pump, 4 turbo chargers, egr valve, 4 ECMs, 1 tail lamp bulb.... thats pretty much all the maint thats been done... the engine only has 112,000 miles on it. If it were failed rockers please explain to me why the misfiring/knocking came and went and came and went and came and went and then came and stayed? Over about a 2 month period of time. And what engine oil do you suggest... I would prefer to run 15w40 Rotella or Delo 400 15w40.. but VM Motori reccomends 0w40 full synthetic
@@glennschlorf1285 it’s free to try and see if it puffs out the intake. If it does you need rockers.
@@IcarusOffroad before I do that at 112,000 miles Ill change the cam and crank position sensors and try that... along with perhaps another sensor or two cheaper to do and I really dont think the rockers did that yet not the way this happened
@@glennschlorf1285 your choice. It’s still cheaper to pull the intake and feel for puffs of air than buying new sensors.
What would you think the problem is if it stalls during acceleration?
Could be so many things. Start with the basics, how long since the fuel filter has been changed? Is there lots of air in the filter head when you bleed it? Does the problem happen more when the engine is cold or hot?
I'm in the middle of doing my timing belt and soon replacing my rocker arms. What have you been doing with the big cables running across the top for the engine when doing the vavke cover and rocker arm job??? Its tight on the engine and I'm not sure what to do. Thanks
Nick Pauletto I remove the harness and lay it over the driver fender. There are 4 plugs on the pass side by the ac accumulator, they are on a bracket that is held down with a 10mm in the middle. Remove the 10mm and then it’s easier to undo the plugs. There is also a bolt holding a ground strap. You will need to undo the trans plug as well. Get the coolant reservoir out of the way and then you can pull the harness all the way over to the drivers side. It’s not much more work but it’s pretty critical for being able to install the valve cover. Also get some or make valve cover alignment pins to reinstall, and follow the torque sequence when you install it. If doing ARP head bolt verify they do not hit the intake manifold on the exhaust side. Use thick grease to help get the rockers to stick to the valves.
@@IcarusOffroad watched your videos many times. Thanks again for all the time you spent making these. Greatly appreciated. By the way what is the thread on the alignment pins or can i get away with proper sized drill bits? Your thought.
@@IcarusOffroad Got the the harness this morning. Done.
Oh my god!!!! Am I going to have the take the mounts off the tilt the engine forward to get to the back sensor connectors and later get better clearance for the cover???
By the way...the transmission dipstick tube is sooooo in the way.
No need to tilt the engine or anything. The rear plugs are awkward but accessible. Grab the bolts that bolted down the intake and take one with you to the hardware store to find a matching thread. The alignment pins are 2" long and screw into holes for the intake bolts, NOT the injector crows feet. Just get some bolts that match the thread and cut the head off, or allthread.
Never ever crack open a high pressure fuel line especially on a common rail you will cut ur finger off without knowing
At least for this engine that is not an issue. While it is high pressure it is very low volume. There is no accumulator on this system. Even cracking a fuel line with the engine running just leads to a fuel drip and an engine that stalls from lack of pressure.
thank you, are there any tps sensors anywhere?
No. There is no TPS since this is drive by wire. The gas pedal assembly (APPS) is the closet thing to a TPS and it reads the driver demand directly at the pedal.
@@IcarusOffroad oh ok thanks. I'm diagnosing a crank no start failure during operation right now and did the key on off on off thing and got a code possibility relating to the pedal or a sensor that sees input from it. 🤷♂️
its all too easy to ask a question about an engine fault as sometimes there could be multiple reasons for the problem and most of the time its just not the same as being there to be able listen to it, just like music.
I am having intermittent issues and throw the code P0192: "Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit A low". I can drive it for a couple of days with no problem but then I will go into a quasi limp mode where the engine doesn't like to rev above 2000 RPM. I can still get up to highway speeds but acceleration is terrible. No smoke. Transmission seems to be shifting funky due to strange RPMs. Oh and when I put it into park or neutral it sounds/feels like its on the verge of choking out, but seems to keep running like that indefinitely.
Would a bad sensor cause these symptoms, or does that code mean the sensor is working correctly and I have low rail pressure?
Juan Smithe when was the last time you bled your fuel filter head or changed your fuel filter?
@@IcarusOffroad Its about time to do both of those things again. I've just never seen this code before and it got me worried.
@@IcarusOffroad So I changed the fuel and air filters a few weeks back and I'm still having the same issues. I can build pressure in the fuel head by manually pumping and I can bleed all the air out after about 3 bleeds. But every time I check it I have more air in the head.
The fuel heater plug looks fine, no discoloring, melting, or diesel leaking out. I'm going to take the head off again today and examine it closely for cracks/defects, and make sure I got filter/water sensor on correctly.
You think the air in the fuel is causing the low rail pressure? I've also read that bad wiring/connections from the fuel pressure/quantity solenoids and fuel pressure sensor can cause these symptoms.
I'm not really sure what the best way is to isolate a fuel leak under negative pressure.
if the cam belt snaps is the engine junk.?
Usually not! The rockers are a designed failure point. If the belt slips or breaks the rockers will snap in two. However depending on the circumstances it’s still possible for the valves to bend. But they usually don’t. I have some videos showing how to pressure test to verify that the valves still seal correct. That being said the exhaust valves seem to have a high rate of failure, and if you drop a valve into a piston that will pretty much trash an engine. If you are at the point of replacing rockers I recommend pulling the head and replacing all of the exhaust valves. The engine pictured above actually got used in my personal Jeep because I had a valve drop shortly after replacing bad rockers.
@@IcarusOffroad thanks for the info. Its an engine in a van at the scrap yard. There asking £500 as is with suspected broken cam belt. Think ill leave it there. Thanks again.
crank goes 2 times to 1 of cam,s
hello to everyone who can tell me where I can repair the engine diesel jeep 2 8
Boat anchor
'This guy right here' and you see 'this guy'. 'This' and 'this thing' and 'this right here'. smh
française
Disappointed you talk in circles I was expecting more on this engine...sorry