Thanks for sharing I enjoyed watching you work. Interesting comparison with the UK, putty glazing is now very rare as is single glazing generally only being practised on listed buildings. Can I ask what timber you are using? I like your frame cramp lovely bit of old kit.
Hi John, Putty glazing is also quite rare here, too. We do traditional work, so we putty glaze all our sashes. Being a painted sash I just used what I had already run, so styles are Western Red Cedar, top rail is Queensland Maple, and the bottom rail is Californian Redwood. The cramp is terrific for sashes, makes it quick and easy. I've never seen another like it, I suspect it was made by the old joiner I bought it off.
I hate to be ‘that guy’ but what sort of price would a sash/set of sashes be? I’m currently restoring some old windows which are similar size to what you’ve done. Everyone is telling me to just replace with aluminium windows but I want to maintain the home in keeping with the era. For example, 1 room = 8 frames (4 x top + 4 x bottom), what ballpark figure are we talking? Comparable to aluminium windows by any chance? Love your work. Thanks for the video!
@@DTJoinery thanks for the reply - much appreciated! I’ll be in touch when I get to the next room’s windows. I assume you’d be able to make completely new matching sash windows for a room extension also.
I also work on sash in the UK, just wondering if the heat of the steam ever cracks the glass?? Also, how wet does the timber get? Does that cause any issues??
@@DTJoinery apologies, I don't know how my comment appeared on your video. I had also been watching an American guy stripping putty from a sash after placing it inside a box filled with steam.
Loved watching this! I learnt heaps. I’m assuming that’s WRC? I’m having a crack at replacing some 100+ year old cedar sliders. I’m going to use a combination of Cedar and TAS Oak. Cedar for bottom rail and oak for the rest. Do you think that will work combing two species ?
That's great. Yes, this one was WRC. It's fine to use different species together on things like sashes and doors. it's a little more of an issue with some furniture where shrinkage rates vary. Make sure you paint it well, as Tas Oak is not overly durable.
One more question regarding the window. When glazing, is it essential to use putty when sealing and setting the glass on the external side of the window? Can I use beading like on the inside?
lovely work
Thankyou Frank.😊
Lovely to watch your deft and confident work.
Thank you.
Loved watching the process and all the tools used in the process. Thanks for showing it!
No worries, happy to hear you enjoyed it.
Well done!
Interested video mate, thanks for sharing
Thank you.
Beautiful job.
@@tinycuisine6544 Thank you.
A lot of cool machines in that shop
Yes, I am a lover of old machinery, so I have always bought and sold a lot.
Nice work. Nice machiery. No home shop can afford any of that commercial machinery.
@johnverkler3962
Thanks.
Size, space, and power would be the bigger barrier.
Like the old clamp, don't see them very often in OZ
No, it's the only one like it that I have seen. Probably home made.
Thanks for sharing I enjoyed watching you work. Interesting comparison with the UK, putty glazing is now very rare as is single glazing generally only being practised on listed buildings. Can I ask what timber you are using? I like your frame cramp lovely bit of old kit.
Hi John, Putty glazing is also quite rare here, too. We do traditional work, so we putty glaze all our sashes. Being a painted sash I just used what I had already run, so styles are Western Red Cedar, top rail is Queensland Maple, and the bottom rail is Californian Redwood.
The cramp is terrific for sashes, makes it quick and easy. I've never seen another like it, I suspect it was made by the old joiner I bought it off.
Wow, great vid! What is the spray you use at the end to clean the glass from the putty? You don't use the magic powder like here in the states?
It's just a general glass cleaner. Some of the old glazers used to use whiting, though I've not tried it.
I hate to be ‘that guy’ but what sort of price would a sash/set of sashes be? I’m currently restoring some old windows which are similar size to what you’ve done. Everyone is telling me to just replace with aluminium windows but I want to maintain the home in keeping with the era. For example, 1 room = 8 frames (4 x top + 4 x bottom), what ballpark figure are we talking? Comparable to aluminium windows by any chance?
Love your work. Thanks for the video!
Ps. I’m south of Sydney. Could bring the old ones up to duplicate.
@Dadolaurenovic
A glazed single light sash, I charge around $300+ gst.
Clear glass.
@@DTJoinery thanks for the reply - much appreciated! I’ll be in touch when I get to the next room’s windows.
I assume you’d be able to make completely new matching sash windows for a room extension also.
@Dadolaurenovic
Yep, no problem.
Windows and doors is our specialty.
Nice job. Thanks for uploading.
Two questions…what type of glue do you use? And what “type” of putty? Many thanks!
Thank you.
Just a high strength water resistant PVA glue and linseed oil based putty.
Thanks for answering, saved me asking. Great video thanks😊@@DTJoinery
@@Wornout1
No worries.
Cheers.
I also work on sash in the UK, just wondering if the heat of the steam ever cracks the glass?? Also, how wet does the timber get? Does that cause any issues??
Sorry, I'm not sure what steam you are referring too. Could you explain?
@@DTJoinery apologies, I don't know how my comment appeared on your video. I had also been watching an American guy stripping putty from a sash after placing it inside a box filled with steam.
@GreenSaxon
Haha all good, now I understand your comment
Loved watching this! I learnt heaps.
I’m assuming that’s WRC? I’m having a crack at replacing some 100+ year old cedar sliders.
I’m going to use a combination of Cedar and TAS Oak. Cedar for bottom rail and oak for the rest. Do you think that will work combing two species ?
That's great.
Yes, this one was WRC.
It's fine to use different species together on things like sashes and doors. it's a little more of an issue with some furniture where shrinkage rates vary.
Make sure you paint it well, as Tas Oak is not overly durable.
@@DTJoinery Thank you for your fast reply. I really appreciate your advice. Whereabouts are you guys? Victoria, NSW?
I'm in Sydney. Thanks again 👍
@@thomo74
No worries.
North of Sydney.
One more question regarding the window. When glazing, is it essential to use putty when sealing and setting the glass on the external side of the window? Can I use beading like on the inside?
@thomo74
Yes of course you can. We putty glaze because we do Traditional joinery, many other companies bead glaze their sashes.
Lovely work although I’d get an air blow gun before you take your knuckles off on the chain morticer 😂
Cheers.
Haha, not as close as it appears.