It's an old house, yes it needs that much heating ! You are very lucky, Those units look pretty new and very expensive ! And the installation is top notch !
Hi. I did my asbestos refresh course yesterday. You need to get a survey done before you carry on any more work. For the safety of you and your family.. you need to get qualified people in to safely remove and dispose of potentially asbestos products.
Please say you've had an asbestos survey done throughout, although not characteristic of the original build date, there's been so many adaptions over the years, you need to be cautious. I would recommend doing an asbestos awareness course if you're renovating older homes.
Just came across your channel today and watched mostly all you have posted. It would be nice to know something about you and why you decided to buy this place, etc.... maybe do a short video as an introduction to who you are, where this is located, a short history of the building, things like that. Looks like it will be a super majorly intensive renovation. But it will make a nice family home. Look forward to seeing what you make of it.
That’s defo a commercial style heating system, so you will need a commercial plumber. The two boilers may be plumbed so one runs all the time and the second one fires up when needed. It’s great to see all the pipes insulated and labelled well… so I hope that means it’s a well designed and installed system.
I may be wrong but it maybe that the front of the house was originally the back as Georgian houses are usually symmetrical so the middle large window would have been the grand entrance (possibly with a portico?). There would have been a large entrance hall with the stairs going up from that space. Maybe the tarmac drive was added in the 60s/70s when the house was converted to flats for sufficient parking for the residents. The original drive to the front of the house might have been situated where the new houses were built? If you have a local history society they would probably have plans, drawings and, later, photos of the house when it was the vicar’s residence.
Your local/county record office/archives….and the National Monument Record may have interesting/useful documentation and photos for you to see/copy/use😀. Also perhaps contact Church of England for past records as it is an old rectory.
I worked in a famous Georgian museum for a while and I wondered if that kitchen area with the vent was originally a grand fireplace. A vent would have been really important. I'd be very careful removing any plaster around the entrance to the kitchen area in case there is any of an original fireplace still in place. Good luck with it all. It's a really interesting project.
Hazmat!! If that is asbestos you’re creating dust that needs tenting & removal in a way that doesn’t disperse the dust into the air, onto your clothing, etc.
I'd say at least some of the equipment has 1980s vibes to me, so modern is a relative term. Boiler efficiency has come a long way since the 80s and depending on how the control side is set up there might be considerable room for improvement.
I live in a large Georgian/Regency house in Devon & we have those "bay" windows facing the garden too. We found that the original front door was on the side. Unless you find evidence of a door elsewhere, I suggest that your original front door is hidden by the extension. The rear of the property is the service end.
That board looks like Asbestolux - used for fireproofing in flats and domers etc until about 1980. Do not mess with it - you need to get it professionally removed.
Really enjoying your channel. And I must give a big shout out to all those making knowledgable comments - quite a new experience where the comments are a must read after each episode. Sort of a community project!
Please keep wash/toilet in top floor. If up there working or watching a movie you can remain up there! I had a great media room with a small kitchenette Small sink fridge microwave & air fryer for family & friends movie nights. Everyone loved it so much!
Given how many chimney pots you have on the roof but I've only spotted one actual chimney breast in the property, seems most of the chimney breasts & fireplaces have been removed over the years, which is a shame. Fads from the 1970s & 80s were not good news for period properties, that's for sure. I speak as someone who lives in an Edwardian semi and spent 5 years 'restoring' it or, to be more precise, undoing the results of an 80's remodelling. By the way, many of our walls were covered in woodchip paper too (looks like what you have been trying to remove), it's painfully time consuming to remove but, the only thing you can do is keep at it. What I did, which did help speed up the process, was that I bought a second-hand steamer on ebay and once all the paper was removed, I sold it on there again, so it didn't really cost me anything in the end.
Check for asbestos, given the fibrous nature of the wallboard!!! Given the age of the property it is possible that such hazardous materials were used when it was converted to individual flats.
Without question you have at least a $150,000 US-Dollar heating system installed 8 to 10- years ago (rough estimate from where I set) ! The amount of labor and materials utilized today would be twice that at a minimum, consider utilizing what you have and retro fit it to your needs. The cost of the onsite electrical, plumbing, HVAC in the structure, including the fire suppression system is probably worth more than what you paid for the property at auction.
My stars, the plumbing system. I wouldn't have thought the house would need that much. Maybe having it broken into flats sort of tripled the normal requirements. Glad you are getting professional help.
It is surely much more complex because there are so many flats to service. It's probably far more than he needs for a single home but it may work out to leave the two boilers where they are and divide the house into heating zones even if it's overkill. Taking out the individual flat plumbing could simplify things a lot.
Hi Charlie it might be worth inviting some local metal detector enthusiasts to give the grounds a once over to see if they can find anything interesting from the past. I'm looking forward to seeing your progress with the rectory.
I agree! I love watching metal detecting videos and getting a new permission is like Christmas! You'll make someone's day and get interesting history into the bargain!
Hopefully, you can locate some old photos or drawings of how your rectory looked before it was chopped up into apartments. I’m sure the house was stunning in it’s day.
I gound this channel earlier today, and have just binge watched everything posted to date. I am hooked! I am also following 'The Old Station Restoration'. It might be helpful to you to get in touch with them for a chat. They are a tiny bit further down the line with their project than you are, and might be able to give you some pointers regarding what sort of questions to ask the professionals : architects, engineers etc. Ditto navigating Coucils etc. Wishing you great fun and plain sailing from South Africa😊
hello i too wacth the old station restoration, along with these ones "escape to rural France" hes rebuilding an old abandoned chateau ruin that was on fire, "sh!t: we bought a farm" in Scotland and "kinging it" they lived in a home made camper and now bought a old cottage in Scotland to rebuild and live in. looking forward to see this one to
I feel that a house of this age and importance would have had stabling and that's probably what the yard is. I live in a flat in a Georgian town house(1760) in Whitby and to the rear there is what was a stable yard and entrance, now incorporated into the house, as additional accommodation.
The cottage I bought not only needed a complete renovation I also added a two storey extension, so I went along to my local builders merchants and had a meeting with their Estimator. He costed the whole job for me and also set me up with a trade account. This saved me a lot of money.
Hi there .Just an idea to insulate in roof and in exterior walls (can get it pumped into walls ). Instead of the 2 boilers get a few floor or wall heatpump/cold air for summer might be a lot cheaper they are environmentally friendly no pipes just attach to floor /wall . They have a fan outside may need advice about placement. Daughter lived in a big Victorian wooden villa and it had a large Floor heat pump that did the whole house (not as big as the Rectory though).
It looks like the heating and hot water system in the village school I worked at. It also had 2 boilers. Most of the time only one of the boilers would be running, the other functioning as backup in case it didn’t produce enough heat or if the first one failed altogether. Once a year the service engineer would switch which one was considered ‘first’. It ran on LPG from an underground tank. Your system looks well engineered and well insulated. The heating system in the school was put in around 2005 and was considered top quality then.
What I was thinking. There should be installation & inspection stickers... I'd get 2 separate quotes, contact the original company who could possibly tweek the system for a single residential property, saving tons in costs & time (if they're honest & don't try to upsell to make more money off him)
The lagging, labels and pumps look fairly new, the boilers and the equipment and pipes in the flats not so much. Those boxes that the sensors connect to look like they're from the 80s or early 90s and the boilers look at least as old to me.
From my experience, having .reconstructed and designed 2 homes I've lived in. Always remember water is your enemy, so if there's any roof or floors with water damage, that must be attended to first. It looks like it needs a new roof, so since you don't seem to want to change much in the "original" structure, I'd put on a new roof. I do agree the heating and hot water system need attention as well as the electric. I hope you got this home for a bargain, as there will be a huge investment redoing this home. Do you plan on living there while you work on it? Do you have a wife and children? Sometimes family can be a great help. Good luck to you and God bless.
Just came across this channel, looking forward to seeing the progress. As someone who has renovated old buildings, including one built in 1508, my best recommendation is to do as much research as possible on the history of the building. Try to find as many old photos as possible, should be easier with a relatively public and important building like a rectory. Following any rip out, the number one priority needs to be the exterior skin of the building, particularly the roof. I see too many people get excited about interior design before ensuring the structure is right. Keep all original features for reference, even if damaged or rotten, it will make life so much easier for a good carpenter/joiner. Finally, working on an old building can be like walking up a big hill, it can seem never ending and at times overwhelming, but just keep plodding along and you’ll get there, break it the project down to manageable chunks if that makes life easier. Best of luck!
05:36 You can see the original cornicing up the top only on one side, so it looks like that cupboard (wall on the right opposite the cornicing) is added later also.
That board looks like something we in Finland call kuitubetonilevy, or fibre-concrete board. After the wars they were very popular and in Finland many of them used asbestos fibre. If that is the case then you have made a very costly error in tearing them down. You have basically contaminated the whole building with asbestos. The fibre is very small and very light and you can't really get rid of it from the air without HEPA 13 filters in an under-pressurised compartment. Do asbestos survey RIGHT AWAY and call the professionals if the lab finds asbestos. Also, don't forget about lead paint and PAH compounds. Also, N95 or P2 mask is not enough for asbestos, you will need a minimum of P3 mask or a pressurized face mask.
Hi buddy, asbestos surveyor for 10 years. That board looks very sus. It's definitely fibrous. It may not be, impossible to tell from a photo, but something to keep in mind, depending when any works were done - it may have been during times where asbestos was being used. Always put a screwdriver through plasterboard to make sure there's no asbestos insulation board behind it. You've seen the cellar is covered in it yes? That's labelled. The good news is the building has had an asbestos survey - ask the previous occupiers for that if you can...but it wouldn't be a refurb survey, so wouldn't have found any hidden asbestos. Good luck
With the expense of timber these days, I'd keep the timber from any stud work or anything that you are removing. You can re-use this & worse case scenario, use it for fire wood maybe? Love what you're doing, good luck. Thanks.
Just found your channel today. Please keep the small bathroom on the top floor. It needs it. An other suggestion is a laundry room on the same floor as the bedrooms. No reason to carry up and down all those stairs.
The heating system, at first glance, looks to be quite sophisticated and expensive and fairly new. Hopefully you'll be able to take advantage of parts of it reduced down to work with a unified home.
That wall between the two small bathrooms could very well be asbestos. it does look a bit fibrous in the video which is characteristic of same. Asbestos fibre board was still being used in the 1970's. Also that massive boiler arrangement looks quite new - why not contact the real estate agent who was yor contact and find out from the previous owner who installed the work? they could give you valuable intel on the system and how to run it.
Finding the original outhouse confirms that part of that area was definitely original. It makes sense looking at the stone walls at the back of that building.
Can't offer any advice on the plumbing but... wow... What a system! 😃 The board that you have removed between the bathrooms looks like fire resistant cement board. I recently removed something that looked very similar from around where an old external heating oil tank was. My local recycling centre said it was fine to put into the "rubble" skip as it is classed as a cement product. Don't think it looks dangerous in yours but maybe worth buying a sample indicator kit online just to make sure.
I don’t know if you can look at old photographs of the property and look at the features to maybe replicate that, I am not sure how accurate it would be.
Those boilers and the system in the house look fairly new. I wouldn’t mess with it. If it works it may keep the house comfortably warm. Since they were individual flats you essentially have zonal heating. That is actually efficient in that you can beat only the rooms you’re using. Put them all on individual thermostats and you may find that system will save you money by heating only what you need rather than the entire house.
Oh, I really really hope you are keeping notes on and researching the history of this building as you progress. Saving scraps of any wall paper etc, finding the original floor plan, who owned the property, or rented it, and when, and when all the different changes were made. It might not be the newer stuff you are interested in, but its all the history of the property, and once gone, its gone. I always find it sad that people dump the newer stuff in their keen interest to get back to the 'original' state.
It would have been nice to see the changes being made. If you can fil it, watching things being fixed is good content, like the cleaning of that yard leading to the plumbing
I am really enjoying this! I wanted to do something similar when I was younger, but no time or money. Now have the time and money but too old. Good luck!
I’m disappointed the original kitchen isn’t in the basement but wow that’s some heating system. I’d be checking for the original grand front entrance & maybe reinstate it, even if it involves taking down the single storey extension, the porches elevation is not the front of the property & maybe why that wall between the rectory & the extension is there to direct the visitor to the proper front door. Be careful with the stud wall, if it’s asbestos you need to employ professionals to remove it, you can’t do it yourself.
Предыдущие хозяева этого дома очень серъезно подошли ко всему, что касается проживания на одной территории нескольких разных семей. Можно сказать, что это дом с сюрпризами 😊
I think you made an excellent investment and I wish you every success in your grand undertaking!! There sure is a LOT of labour involved in deconstructing what you have to get rid of but what a lovely house. Pity they messed up the front with those terrible pipes. I like the idea of making a rental property out of the annex, giving you some income towards maintenance. I would suggest though that you break down that ugly brick wall and rather hide it behind a hedge of some sort. Anyway, I've subscribed and I'm really keen to watch your progress! ❤ Greetings from South Africa
Good idea to find out when last converted into flats. This will give you information regarding the materials used and whether you should be concerned or not. If asbestos, wearing a respirator whilst doing demolition not good enough. I was worried for MY lungs just watching the video!!!!!!
Once asbestos is in the air you have a problem so definitely check before any further demo. You can pick up hone test kits to use everywhere you demo/modify. Even paint from tge 89s cab contain it, fireproof building materials, red alert. Like during in tge yard test first.
I used to work for a Local Authority Property Maintenance Department before I retired. We designed and maintained heating systems and electrical services for schools, residential homes, Leisure Centres etc. My initial opinion of the heating system is that it is made complicated by the fact it is feeding 5 separate flats. You also mention that each flat has a separate water boiler which suggests the two gas boilers are not providing HWS to the flats. I would certainly get rid of the electric water boilers and get your HWS from the gas boilers. By the way, you should install a pumped HWS otherwise it will take ages for the hot water to reach the sinks and showers etc. I would certainly look at simplifying the current heating system and its associated controls. You might find that you can remove a large part of the current pipework and electrical controls. Also maintenance of your system could well be a nightmare. I’m guessing that each flat has its own heating loop. My initial suggestion is that you survey, investigate and produce a schematic drawing showing the pipework layout for the current system. This will help you understand the operation of the current system and figure out how it can be simplified and what pipework can be removed. I would also suggest you calculate the heat losses for each of the rooms and corridors etc. I would suggest that the current heat losses are calculated without any thermal insulation to the external walls. If the external walls are solid with no cavity then your U Value with be above 2. The Building Control will require insulation to the external walls to reduce the U Value. You should not skimp on this as it will benefit you with reduced heating costs. You should then work out your new heat losses for each room on the basis that you have improved the thermal losses. With this reduction in heat losses you might well find that you can lose one of the boilers, or replace the two boilers with one slightly bigger modern boiler. How old are the boilers and what size are they? Looking at the system I suggest that your property could well have been owned by the Local Authority and converted by them for social services or housing stock. If so they might well have plans of the building and the electrical and mechanical services. It’s worth investigating. The system you have suggests it was designed by a competent heating engineer and installed by a heating contractor. Whilst a commercial heating contractor would be competent to carry out the installation, the actual design would be beyond the scope of most contractors. With regard to the schematic diagram for the heating system, have you considered venturing into CAD. You will find it very useful for all aspects of your work. It’s great for kitchen and bathroom layouts. Personally I always used VectorWorks but cheaper easier CAD systems are available. You mention you are a software engineer so this should come easier for you. Have you thought about using one of the boilers just for the brickwork extension so it is independent from the main system. If you go the AirBB route this will be beneficial. Of course you should also have a separate electrical system. Some of the radiators look a bit dated - are you considering replacing them? There is very little scrap value on radiators. However copper pipework and electrical cables have good scrap value. Just a thought. You mention that you have 6 electrical meters each with its own standing charge. Each incoming electrical supply is based on the requirements for a single flat. Will one of the incoming electrical supplies be of sufficient size to cater for the large house. If this is a problem you could use three of the incoming supplies as a 3 phase supply which will probably suit your needs. You need to contact your electrical shipper for further details as it might require some alterations to the external connections. With regard to the electrical installation, have you considered retaining some of the existing distribution boards. If the wiring is good then you should consider this. This will save you running long cables back to a single central distribution board. Again a thorough survey is required which you could do yourself. Did you realise that the electrical services falls within the Building Regulations. All your fuse boxes must be metal and not plastic. Sockets should be fitted at 500mm above FFL etc etc. I have installed a Smart Home in my property which you might like to research. If you go this route then install a neutral at all lighting switches. Your property is quite large so I suggest installing at least 3 Mesh Routers with a Cat.6 connection between them. This should allow you to get WiFi in the garden. I would certainly install Cat.6 connections in some of your rooms such as the Office, TV room etc. After all a cable connection is better than WiFi. If you want more info then please feel free to contact me.
You are proceeding in a good method. I just left you a bunch of comments on your first video. Glad you are calling in the professionals...and making a plan. Very proud of you!!!!
Glad I found this channel. Regarding that heating system it’s similar to systems iv worked on (electrical side of things) In schools etc, normally set up with one constant boiler and the other to help out if it’s needed or incase one fails all together and normally every 12-18 months the one in constant use is switched over to the other so both get similar wear and tear. Make sure you get a good commercial/ industrial plumber/ gas fitter as a domestic plumber would probably just stand there looking at it, and normally there not geared up for larger than 28mm copper pipe, especially when it’s 1 1/2-2 inch threaded iron pipes etc. try and save as much as you can as it looked very well done and not overly old and big boilers like that are reliable and parts can still be got, not like Micky mouse combi boilers where they break so throw it in the bin buy new. Them commercial boilers are thousands to replace.
I think you have quite an interesting project on your hands. I'm subscribing so I can follow along. On the plus side, all the plumbing looks to have been done professionally.
The Clorius System is in use in many high rise local authority flats, it works by evaporation and is used to monitor and charge each flat tenant for heating used. Your system is very much in the realms of mechanical engineering, expect operating costs are high 🤔
I looked up the Clorius sensors in the end, certainly seems to be some kind of per-flat flow measurement / billing setup. The only thing is, I haven't found any kind of central data collection device. Each device seems to have an RS232 cable heading down into the floor, but I don't know where they go.
Usually a meter was fitted to one radiator in each flat, the liquid in the file evaporated and a reading was taken to determine an annual cost usually ending in argument 🙄 assuming you are returning the building to a single family home? I expect you are considering insulation for the walls and especially the bay windows/doors where a lot of heat loss is possible 🤔 a heating engineer can determine what size of boiler is needed ? It may be possible to keep one that you have, good luck 🤞
Curioser and curioser... It looks like you could heat half of Devon with that boiler system! I agree that demolition is a wonderful part of renovation. Oh goodness, it would be good to find out if that fiber board has asbestos in it.... I wish you and Emma the best in renovating the Rectory!
Good idea to get advice on the boilers, as you say, Charlie and Emma. It a very large place to heat with multiple bathrooms to supply so it may just need that size of boiler system.
The Ceiling Rose - A goof plasterer could make a mould of the original and replicate it in the other two main rooms. I worked with a Master Plasterer who created some copies of Ceiling roses and other detailed Plaster work. Central heating - I am sure you could almost pay for a new central heating and hot water system from the scrap value of all of the copper and cast iron when you strip out the old system. Personally, I would have a solar system and ground source heat pump system fitted. Insulation - Before you do any more work on the house "think Insulation" I would have a specialist design a fully integrated heat/insulation/hot water/solar/triple glazed windows and heat pump and sump pump system. This will cost a lot but will save you a lot of repeat work in the future. My wife and I used to own a similar-sized property - and we always regretted not having many of the above works done - our house was built in the 18th century and was difficult to heat and keep in good repair.
While you are thinking about heating etc…do remember to consider solar photo voltaic and solar thermal panels…you may be limited by local distribution network (electricity)….and/or listed building consent for planning….but your outbuildings may also have some rooves facing a good way for solar panels.
Can I suggest you make intro and an outro. We've watched all your videos so far but didn't realise when each had finished. I had a thought after seeing the floor plan, the room with the access to the cellar/boiler room should be the kitchen if possible as that cellar would make a great place to store preserved foods, wine etc. Also being north facing the view isn't as important. Then the room the opposite side could be the dining room. The rooms with the arch could then become one or two rooms with an opening bifolding door. I agree with you about the 2nd stairwell. I suspect it was originally for servants but as there's no need no it needs to be gone. We can't wait to see what you do next. Also give us a clue as to which county this is in. I think it's Suffolk, am I right?
It would be quite helpful to you if you could find the original plans. (Local archives may be able to help) The three bay windows don't seem to be in keeping. I would have thought they were floor to ceiling sash windows, or maybe tall french doors in line with the wall. I may be wrong though.
Oooh! A drone shot! See? You're getting ever more professional in your vids. Please don't worry about keeping up with other channels, you have a pleasant personality, that's the most important part. That's why you have SO MANY subscribers already!!! Congrats!
That is basically a district heating system - there is one big reliable (hence redundant boilers) loop and each flat can take a metered amount of energy out of it, by monitoring the flow and return temperature at each flat. Probably overkill for a single property - they had a goal of being able to separately bill tenants for their use, which you don't have. Not sure I would be in a hurry to get rid of any of it. Looks good and a lot to replace.
@@cliveramsbotty6077 not sure of the specific details of that one, but district heating systems generally have a heat exchanger, the flow rate through that on the supply side is known, and the energy extracted by the customer is just calculated from the temperature drop across the heat exchanger. If the customer side isn't flowing then there is no temperature drop on the supply side. I think that is why things look doubled up in the airing cupboard.
@@AlanBell There's no heat exchangers here. Things look 'doubled up' because there are two flow meters - one for heating, the other for domestic hot water. You can tell that these are flow meters because the water passes through them. There are also sensors to monitor the temperature here, but they're in dry pockets because they don't need to be directly in the stream of water.
This is great, can't wait to see how u go along, also this is great for air pumps as there becoming more popular , I'm sure any company would love to take it on, as this is a large house, and they could use as advertising,
If the heating system works well you might want to keep it for zoned heat, so that you can keep the rooms you use more warmer and turn down the heat in rooms you use less. Just a thought. I love how things are opening up as you take down walls.
I'd keep the two boilers. It is a big house and you are going to lose temp just on the way to the house and within the walls of the house. To whom ever installed those boilers, "Job well done.".
i agree, the first two rooms seems to been well done, i hope he can keep them too, do not look that old to, but nowadays it's easier to buy something new than to repair a youngtimer...
Lol that little hole in the wall took me back to 1975 I was 5yob playing in the back yard my momma was taking a shower at out old stucco type house it had a broken vent that led to the shower, at 5 I didn’t know how much reaching in and grabbing my mommas ankle would upset her so much…😅😅😅
The boilers were obviously moved to outside. You can see the new pipework coming into the plantroom is superinsulated. Apart from the ridiculously oversized pumps you have a great basis for a system there. Just to install the external plant room with the pipes through the ground and what you have in the basement you'd be looking at an easy 120k The pipe itself is around £100/m
The hole in the wall at 6:40. Does it establish whether the exterior walls are solid stone? The alternative would be stone facing with brick internal structural wall and rubble filling the gap between the stone and brick (in Glasgow where I have a house, that type of construction appears around late 19th / early 20th century so a bit later than this house). The larger old cities in Scotland at least (and I'm sure in England too) have many knowledgeable stone masons with lots of historical knowledge of how these buildings are put together. (Also some, but not all of the builders). Make sure you are speaking to people with the right experience!
i would have thought your best option would be to start again with the plumbing AND electrics due to the nature of it being up as separate flats up to your purchase. Perhaps as you have mentioned you intend to keep the annex separate it may be best for that to have a different supply (if you are considering selling it at some point in the future) but the main house I would just strip out all the plumbing and electrics and start afresh. ps you have a very decent amount of scrap copper pps TIDY UP as you go and DON'T start work in every room, you may soon get demoralised (just from my history) BUT DEFINATELY KEEP IT TIDY
Someone spent a fortune on all that piping!
My exact words….
It's an old house, yes it needs that much heating ! You are very lucky, Those units look pretty new and very expensive ! And the installation is top notch !
"Heating overkill" looks to be a distinct understatement, IMO. Rube Goldberg would have appreciated this setup!
That's what I was thinking. Hopefully, there's a good way to mix new with the old original in order to save some money and keep functionality.
That is quite the boiler system looks like what a hotel or commercial building would have.
Hi. I did my asbestos refresh course yesterday. You need to get a survey done before you carry on any more work. For the safety of you and your family.. you need to get qualified people in to safely remove and dispose of potentially asbestos products.
It's the 1950 to 1980s houses have the more dangerous asbestos.
@@helenstewart2085 Which definitely amplifies the concerns, since he doesn't know when any of those interior walls were installed.
Please say you've had an asbestos survey done throughout, although not characteristic of the original build date, there's been so many adaptions over the years, you need to be cautious. I would recommend doing an asbestos awareness course if you're renovating older homes.
@@helenstewart2085 ...
Asbestos was still used quite a lot until 2,000.
@@helenstewart2085 With respec, there is no less dangerous asbestos if you're smashing it up. The fibres and dust are released and are inhaleable.
Even unfinished as it is, you really can see how charming a home it must have been. I think it's quite lovely!!
Just came across your channel today and watched mostly all you have posted. It would be nice to know something about you and why you decided to buy this place, etc.... maybe do a short video as an introduction to who you are, where this is located, a short history of the building, things like that. Looks like it will be a super majorly intensive renovation. But it will make a nice family home. Look forward to seeing what you make of it.
yes, an introduction would be very helpful for new subscribers
Thank you! We (Emma and Charlie) will try to do a proper intro video soon!
Any wall can be taken out with the proper support to replace it!! It’s all in the $$$$ you’re willing to spend!
You have an exciting renovation journey ahead of you.
And I am really pleased you share it with us. Can't wait for the next update!!
@@TheRectory1812 you should have lots more subscribers going by views too it a great channel
Brilliant heating system....it means you can have two zones. Don't be crazy, this is amazing
Well 6 zones really! ;o)
That’s defo a commercial style heating system, so you will need a commercial plumber. The two boilers may be plumbed so one runs all the time and the second one fires up when needed. It’s great to see all the pipes insulated and labelled well… so I hope that means it’s a well designed and installed system.
I may be wrong but it maybe that the front of the house was originally the back as Georgian houses are usually symmetrical so the middle large window would have been the grand entrance (possibly with a portico?). There would have been a large entrance hall with the stairs going up from that space. Maybe the tarmac drive was added in the 60s/70s when the house was converted to flats for sufficient parking for the residents. The original drive to the front of the house might have been situated where the new houses were built? If you have a local history society they would probably have plans, drawings and, later, photos of the house when it was the vicar’s residence.
This is a village house. The pretty side of the house was maybe deliberately faced away from the Main Road to the garden, maybe an orchard.
Your local/county record office/archives….and the National Monument Record may have interesting/useful documentation and photos for you to see/copy/use😀. Also perhaps contact Church of England for past records as it is an old rectory.
I agree absolutely with this reply @bellab1973
I was thinking the same thing except the main entrance would be the opposite the red brick addition. It is different from the other two.
Really would like to know the history of the rectory.
I worked in a famous Georgian museum for a while and I wondered if that kitchen area with the vent was originally a grand fireplace. A vent would have been really important. I'd be very careful removing any plaster around the entrance to the kitchen area in case there is any of an original fireplace still in place. Good luck with it all. It's a really interesting project.
Hazmat!! If that is asbestos you’re creating dust that needs tenting & removal in a way that doesn’t disperse the dust into the air, onto your clothing, etc.
Hands up who wants to go there and help this guy out!
🤚
Not before the asbestos is removed 🙅♂️😱
agree on big $$$ for this system... all looks really new and well insulated, well monitored with gauges, well labelled with arrows etc
Someone spent a lot of money on that plumbing & heating system & it looks fairly modern too .
I'd say at least some of the equipment has 1980s vibes to me, so modern is a relative term. Boiler efficiency has come a long way since the 80s and depending on how the control side is set up there might be considerable room for improvement.
I live in a large Georgian/Regency house in Devon & we have those "bay" windows facing the garden too. We found that the original front door was on the side. Unless you find evidence of a door elsewhere, I suggest that your original front door is hidden by the extension. The rear of the property is the service end.
Yes I agree cuz the porches elevation is rather too plain for a grand entrance of a Georgian property.
That board looks like Asbestolux - used for fireproofing in flats and domers etc until about 1980. Do not mess with it - you need to get it professionally removed.
Could be Superlux if he's lucky
@@allthebeesaredead188 Or Fermacell if that was ever sold in the UK.
Wow, those boilers look very well installed! Grundfos make *nice* pumps, too.
Really enjoying your channel. And I must give a big shout out to all those making knowledgable comments - quite a new experience where the comments are a must read after each episode. Sort of a community project!
Please keep wash/toilet in top floor. If up there working or watching a movie you can remain up there! I had a great media room with a small kitchenette Small sink fridge microwave & air fryer for family & friends movie nights. Everyone loved it so much!
Given how many chimney pots you have on the roof but I've only spotted one actual chimney breast in the property, seems most of the chimney breasts & fireplaces have been removed over the years, which is a shame. Fads from the 1970s & 80s were not good news for period properties, that's for sure. I speak as someone who lives in an Edwardian semi and spent 5 years 'restoring' it or, to be more precise, undoing the results of an 80's remodelling. By the way, many of our walls were covered in woodchip paper too (looks like what you have been trying to remove), it's painfully time consuming to remove but, the only thing you can do is keep at it. What I did, which did help speed up the process, was that I bought a second-hand steamer on ebay and once all the paper was removed, I sold it on there again, so it didn't really cost me anything in the end.
Check for asbestos, given the fibrous nature of the wallboard!!! Given the age of the property it is possible that such hazardous materials were used when it was converted to individual flats.
Without question you have at least a $150,000 US-Dollar heating system installed 8 to 10- years ago (rough estimate from where I set) ! The amount of labor and materials utilized today would be twice that at a minimum, consider utilizing what you have and retro fit it to your needs. The cost of the onsite electrical, plumbing, HVAC in the structure, including the fire suppression system is probably worth more than what you paid for the property at auction.
You need to have specialists test for hazardous materials and dispose of them properly.
Charlie please make sure the plaster board you're pulling off the walls doesn't contain asbestos 🙏
My stars, the plumbing system. I wouldn't have thought the house would need that much. Maybe having it broken into flats sort of tripled the normal requirements. Glad you are getting professional help.
It is surely much more complex because there are so many flats to service. It's probably far more than he needs for a single home but it may work out to leave the two boilers where they are and divide the house into heating zones even if it's overkill. Taking out the individual flat plumbing could simplify things a lot.
Hi Charlie it might be worth inviting some local metal detector enthusiasts to give the grounds a once over to see if they can find anything interesting from the past. I'm looking forward to seeing your progress with the rectory.
I agree! I love watching metal detecting videos and getting a new permission is like Christmas! You'll make someone's day and get interesting history into the bargain!
Hopefully, you can locate some old photos or drawings of how your rectory looked before it was chopped up into apartments. I’m sure the house was stunning in it’s day.
If the pipes are to be discarded , make sure YOU get rid of them !! . Copper scrap at the moment pays well ( help to recoup a bit of dosh ) 😁😁
That system looks almost brand new, perhaps an ad would get even more than scrap price!
I gound this channel earlier today, and have just binge watched everything posted to date. I am hooked! I am also following 'The Old Station Restoration'. It might be helpful to you to get in touch with them for a chat. They are a tiny bit further down the line with their project than you are, and might be able to give you some pointers regarding what sort of questions to ask the professionals : architects, engineers etc. Ditto navigating Coucils etc. Wishing you great fun and plain sailing from South Africa😊
hello i too wacth the old station restoration, along with these ones "escape to rural France" hes rebuilding an old abandoned chateau ruin that was on fire, "sh!t: we bought a farm" in Scotland and "kinging it" they lived in a home made camper and now bought a old cottage in Scotland to rebuild and live in. looking forward to see this one to
I feel that a house of this age and importance would have had stabling and that's probably what the yard is. I live in a flat in a Georgian town house(1760) in Whitby and to the rear there is what was a stable yard and entrance, now incorporated into the house, as additional accommodation.
The cottage I bought not only needed a complete renovation I also added a two storey extension, so I went along to my local builders merchants and had a meeting with their Estimator. He costed the whole job for me and also set me up with a trade account. This saved me a lot of money.
Take care around that fibreboard. Depending on it's age, it could contain asbestos. Any floor tiles that look like vinyl as well.
Yeah, that looks like asbestos to me.
Very good shape compared to the rest of the house! Be sure you have a plumber look at it before you do anything to it. I think you’ll be féru pleased!
Hi there .Just an idea to insulate in roof and in exterior walls (can get it pumped into walls ). Instead of the 2 boilers get a few floor or wall heatpump/cold air for summer might be a lot cheaper they are environmentally friendly no pipes just attach to floor /wall . They have a fan outside may need advice about placement. Daughter lived in a big Victorian wooden villa and it had a large Floor heat pump that did the whole house (not as big as the Rectory though).
It looks like the heating and hot water system in the village school I worked at. It also had 2 boilers. Most of the time only one of the boilers would be running, the other functioning as backup in case it didn’t produce enough heat or if the first one failed altogether. Once a year the service engineer would switch which one was considered ‘first’. It ran on LPG from an underground tank. Your system looks well engineered and well insulated. The heating system in the school was put in around 2005 and was considered top quality then.
That heating system looks very new and seems to be well installed.
What I was thinking. There should be installation & inspection stickers... I'd get 2 separate quotes, contact the original company who could possibly tweek the system for a single residential property, saving tons in costs & time (if they're honest & don't try to upsell to make more money off him)
The lagging, labels and pumps look fairly new, the boilers and the equipment and pipes in the flats not so much. Those boxes that the sensors connect to look like they're from the 80s or early 90s and the boilers look at least as old to me.
It's going to be a beautiful house. Lovely aerial shots
From my experience, having .reconstructed and designed 2 homes I've lived in. Always remember water is your enemy, so if there's any roof or floors with water damage, that must be attended to first. It looks like it needs a new roof, so since you don't seem to want to change much in the "original" structure, I'd put on a new roof. I do agree the heating and hot water system need attention as well as the electric. I hope you got this home for a bargain, as there will be a huge investment redoing this home. Do you plan on living there while you work on it? Do you have a wife and children? Sometimes family can be a great help. Good luck to you and God bless.
If you had six flats, with six renters handling their own heat and water, then it makes sense that things are complicated. You get to simplify!
Just came across this channel, looking forward to seeing the progress. As someone who has renovated old buildings, including one built in 1508, my best recommendation is to do as much research as possible on the history of the building. Try to find as many old photos as possible, should be easier with a relatively public and important building like a rectory. Following any rip out, the number one priority needs to be the exterior skin of the building, particularly the roof. I see too many people get excited about interior design before ensuring the structure is right. Keep all original features for reference, even if damaged or rotten, it will make life so much easier for a good carpenter/joiner. Finally, working on an old building can be like walking up a big hill, it can seem never ending and at times overwhelming, but just keep plodding along and you’ll get there, break it the project down to manageable chunks if that makes life easier. Best of luck!
05:36 You can see the original cornicing up the top only on one side, so it looks like that cupboard (wall on the right opposite the cornicing) is added later also.
Wow, the heating and water system looks very complicated and amazingly newer than everything else. Must have cost a fortune.
That board looks like something we in Finland call kuitubetonilevy, or fibre-concrete board. After the wars they were very popular and in Finland many of them used asbestos fibre. If that is the case then you have made a very costly error in tearing them down. You have basically contaminated the whole building with asbestos. The fibre is very small and very light and you can't really get rid of it from the air without HEPA 13 filters in an under-pressurised compartment. Do asbestos survey RIGHT AWAY and call the professionals if the lab finds asbestos. Also, don't forget about lead paint and PAH compounds. Also, N95 or P2 mask is not enough for asbestos, you will need a minimum of P3 mask or a pressurized face mask.
Like I have said before; your subscribers have good advice for you. I will just say, I really liked the drone footage❣️🤗
Hi buddy, asbestos surveyor for 10 years. That board looks very sus. It's definitely fibrous. It may not be, impossible to tell from a photo, but something to keep in mind, depending when any works were done - it may have been during times where asbestos was being used. Always put a screwdriver through plasterboard to make sure there's no asbestos insulation board behind it. You've seen the cellar is covered in it yes? That's labelled. The good news is the building has had an asbestos survey - ask the previous occupiers for that if you can...but it wouldn't be a refurb survey, so wouldn't have found any hidden asbestos. Good luck
Enjoying your project. There is more plumbing in your home than can be found in my local hospital!
With the expense of timber these days, I'd keep the timber from any stud work or anything that you are removing. You can re-use this & worse case scenario, use it for fire wood maybe? Love what you're doing, good luck. Thanks.
Just found your channel today. Please keep the small bathroom on the top floor. It needs it. An other suggestion is a laundry room on the same floor as the bedrooms. No reason to carry up and down all those stairs.
The heating system, at first glance, looks to be quite sophisticated and expensive and fairly new. Hopefully you'll be able to take advantage of parts of it reduced down to work with a unified home.
I like seeing the work done, ie, I clearing of debris and the overgrown garden areas. I like it sped up. You are doing a great job.
That wall between the two small bathrooms could very well be asbestos. it does look a bit fibrous in the video which is characteristic of same. Asbestos fibre board was still being used in the 1970's. Also that massive boiler arrangement looks quite new - why not contact the real estate agent who was yor contact and find out from the previous owner who installed the work? they could give you valuable intel on the system and how to run it.
It’s amazing, Charlie, how much you have done in such a short period of time. I cannot wait to see the progress moving forward. Thanks for sharing.
Just found your channel. Love everything so far.
Thank you!
Finding the original outhouse confirms that part of that area was definitely original. It makes sense looking at the stone walls at the back of that building.
Can't offer any advice on the plumbing but... wow... What a system! 😃 The board that you have removed between the bathrooms looks like fire resistant cement board. I recently removed something that looked very similar from around where an old external heating oil tank was. My local recycling centre said it was fine to put into the "rubble" skip as it is classed as a cement product. Don't think it looks dangerous in yours but maybe worth buying a sample indicator kit online just to make sure.
I knew the courtyard would be fabulous when the shrubbery was removed. That is a big plus
I think this is amazing property and I look forward to you bringing back to its original state.
I don’t know if you can look at old photographs of the property and look at the features to maybe replicate that, I am not sure how accurate it would be.
Those boilers and the system in the house look fairly new. I wouldn’t mess with it. If it works it may keep the house comfortably warm. Since they were individual flats you essentially have zonal heating. That is actually efficient in that you can beat only the rooms you’re using. Put them all on individual thermostats and you may find that system will save you money by heating only what you need rather than the entire house.
WOW! what a complicated set up!
Oh, I really really hope you are keeping notes on and researching the history of this building as you progress. Saving scraps of any wall paper etc, finding the original floor plan, who owned the property, or rented it, and when, and when all the different changes were made. It might not be the newer stuff you are interested in, but its all the history of the property, and once gone, its gone. I always find it sad that people dump the newer stuff in their keen interest to get back to the 'original' state.
It would have been nice to see the changes being made. If you can fil it, watching things being fixed is good content, like the cleaning of that yard leading to the plumbing
I am really enjoying this! I wanted to do something similar when I was younger, but no time or money. Now have the time and money but too old. Good luck!
I’m disappointed the original kitchen isn’t in the basement but wow that’s some heating system. I’d be checking for the original grand front entrance & maybe reinstate it, even if it involves taking down the single storey extension, the porches elevation is not the front of the property & maybe why that wall between the rectory & the extension is there to direct the visitor to the proper front door. Be careful with the stud wall, if it’s asbestos you need to employ professionals to remove it, you can’t do it yourself.
Предыдущие хозяева этого дома очень серъезно подошли ко всему, что касается проживания на одной территории нескольких разных семей. Можно сказать, что это дом с сюрпризами 😊
I think you made an excellent investment and I wish you every success in your grand undertaking!! There sure is a LOT of labour involved in deconstructing what you have to get rid of but what a lovely house. Pity they messed up the front with those terrible pipes. I like the idea of making a rental property out of the annex, giving you some income towards maintenance. I would suggest though that you break down that ugly brick wall and rather hide it behind a hedge of some sort. Anyway, I've subscribed and I'm really keen to watch your progress! ❤ Greetings from South Africa
For the an-ex I was thinking of a granny flat😊
Good idea to find out when last converted into flats. This will give you information regarding the materials used and whether you should be concerned or not. If asbestos, wearing a respirator whilst doing demolition not good enough. I was worried for MY lungs just watching the video!!!!!!
Once asbestos is in the air you have a problem so definitely check before any further demo. You can pick up hone test kits to use everywhere you demo/modify. Even paint from tge 89s cab contain it, fireproof building materials, red alert. Like during in tge yard test first.
Hi Charlie, it sure is a beautiful Georgian house! I can assure you that I will be a dedicated follower keep the updates coming Best of luck👍
Thank you!
I used to work for a Local Authority Property Maintenance Department before I retired. We designed and maintained heating systems and electrical services for schools, residential homes, Leisure Centres etc. My initial opinion of the heating system is that it is made complicated by the fact it is feeding 5 separate flats. You also mention that each flat has a separate water boiler which suggests the two gas boilers are not providing HWS to the flats. I would certainly get rid of the electric water boilers and get your HWS from the gas boilers. By the way, you should install a pumped HWS otherwise it will take ages for the hot water to reach the sinks and showers etc.
I would certainly look at simplifying the current heating system and its associated controls. You might find that you can remove a large part of the current pipework and electrical controls. Also maintenance of your system could well be a nightmare. I’m guessing that each flat has its own heating loop.
My initial suggestion is that you survey, investigate and produce a schematic drawing showing the pipework layout for the current system. This will help you understand the operation of the current system and figure out how it can be simplified and what pipework can be removed.
I would also suggest you calculate the heat losses for each of the rooms and corridors etc. I would suggest that the current heat losses are calculated without any thermal insulation to the external walls. If the external walls are solid with no cavity then your U Value with be above 2. The Building Control will require insulation to the external walls to reduce the U Value. You should not skimp on this as it will benefit you with reduced heating costs. You should then work out your new heat losses for each room on the basis that you have improved the thermal losses.
With this reduction in heat losses you might well find that you can lose one of the boilers, or replace the two boilers with one slightly bigger modern boiler. How old are the boilers and what size are they?
Looking at the system I suggest that your property could well have been owned by the Local Authority and converted by them for social services or housing stock. If so they might well have plans of the building and the electrical and mechanical services. It’s worth investigating. The system you have suggests it was designed by a competent heating engineer and installed by a heating contractor. Whilst a commercial heating contractor would be competent to carry out the installation, the actual design would be beyond the scope of most contractors.
With regard to the schematic diagram for the heating system, have you considered venturing into CAD. You will find it very useful for all aspects of your work. It’s great for kitchen and bathroom layouts. Personally I always used VectorWorks but cheaper easier CAD systems are available. You mention you are a software engineer so this should come easier for you.
Have you thought about using one of the boilers just for the brickwork extension so it is independent from the main system. If you go the AirBB route this will be beneficial. Of course you should also have a separate electrical system.
Some of the radiators look a bit dated - are you considering replacing them? There is very little scrap value on radiators. However copper pipework and electrical cables have good scrap value.
Just a thought. You mention that you have 6 electrical meters each with its own standing charge. Each incoming electrical supply is based on the requirements for a single flat. Will one of the incoming electrical supplies be of sufficient size to cater for the large house. If this is a problem you could use three of the incoming supplies as a 3 phase supply which will probably suit your needs. You need to contact your electrical shipper for further details as it might require some alterations to the external connections.
With regard to the electrical installation, have you considered retaining some of the existing distribution boards. If the wiring is good then you should consider this. This will save you running long cables back to a single central distribution board. Again a thorough survey is required which you could do yourself. Did you realise that the electrical services falls within the Building Regulations. All your fuse boxes must be metal and not plastic. Sockets should be fitted at 500mm above FFL etc etc. I have installed a Smart Home in my property which you might like to research. If you go this route then install a neutral at all lighting switches.
Your property is quite large so I suggest installing at least 3 Mesh Routers with a Cat.6 connection between them. This should allow you to get WiFi in the garden. I would certainly install Cat.6 connections in some of your rooms such as the Office, TV room etc. After all a cable connection is better than WiFi.
If you want more info then please feel free to contact me.
I'm really fascinated by this renovation. I love seeing the progress you're making.
You are proceeding in a good method. I just left you a bunch of comments on your first video. Glad you are calling in the professionals...and making a plan. Very proud of you!!!!
Actually a lot of time and money went into that. Wow. Your load is looking easier!
That heating systemis fantastic, a good service and maybe a BMS, thats a real bonus to find.
All that copper pipe is valuable salvage! Wow!
Glad I found this channel. Regarding that heating system it’s similar to systems iv worked on (electrical side of things) In schools etc, normally set up with one constant boiler and the other to help out if it’s needed or incase one fails all together and normally every 12-18 months the one in constant use is switched over to the other so both get similar wear and tear.
Make sure you get a good commercial/ industrial plumber/ gas fitter as a domestic plumber would probably just stand there looking at it, and normally there not geared up for larger than 28mm copper pipe, especially when it’s 1 1/2-2 inch threaded iron pipes etc.
try and save as much as you can as it looked very well done and not overly old and big boilers like that are reliable and parts can still be got, not like Micky mouse combi boilers where they break so throw it in the bin buy new. Them commercial boilers are thousands to replace.
I think you have quite an interesting project on your hands. I'm subscribing so I can follow along. On the plus side, all the plumbing looks to have been done professionally.
May I suggest that you keep the old carpeting down until you have finished painting the walls?
The Clorius System is in use in many high rise local authority flats, it works by evaporation and is used to monitor and charge each flat tenant for heating used. Your system is very much in the realms of mechanical engineering, expect operating costs are high 🤔
I looked up the Clorius sensors in the end, certainly seems to be some kind of per-flat flow measurement / billing setup. The only thing is, I haven't found any kind of central data collection device. Each device seems to have an RS232 cable heading down into the floor, but I don't know where they go.
Usually a meter was fitted to one radiator in each flat, the liquid in the file evaporated and a reading was taken to determine an annual cost usually ending in argument 🙄 assuming you are returning the building to a single family home? I expect you are considering insulation for the walls and especially the bay windows/doors where a lot of heat loss is possible 🤔 a heating engineer can determine what size of boiler is needed ? It may be possible to keep one that you have, good luck 🤞
Curioser and curioser... It looks like you could heat half of Devon with that boiler system! I agree that demolition is a wonderful part of renovation. Oh goodness, it would be good to find out if that fiber board has asbestos in it.... I wish you and Emma the best in renovating the Rectory!
Good idea to get advice on the boilers, as you say, Charlie and Emma. It a very large place to heat with multiple bathrooms to supply so it may just need that size of boiler system.
found the 1st video this morning looking forward to watching your journey
arent there any pictures or photos of what the inside of the rectory looked like before it was turned into flats?
The Ceiling Rose - A goof plasterer could make a mould of the original and replicate it in the other two main rooms. I worked with a Master Plasterer who created some copies of Ceiling roses and other detailed Plaster work. Central heating - I am sure you could almost pay for a new central heating and hot water system from the scrap value of all of the copper and cast iron when you strip out the old system. Personally, I would have a solar system and ground source heat pump system fitted. Insulation - Before you do any more work on the house "think Insulation" I would have a specialist design a fully integrated heat/insulation/hot water/solar/triple glazed windows and heat pump and sump pump system. This will cost a lot but will save you a lot of repeat work in the future. My wife and I used to own a similar-sized property - and we always regretted not having many of the above works done - our house was built in the 18th century and was difficult to heat and keep in good repair.
While you are thinking about heating etc…do remember to consider solar photo voltaic and solar thermal panels…you may be limited by local distribution network (electricity)….and/or listed building consent for planning….but your outbuildings may also have some rooves facing a good way for solar panels.
With six council flats in the building, they would need all that piping to get the water where it needed to go. My goodness what a set up!
Can I suggest you make intro and an outro. We've watched all your videos so far but didn't realise when each had finished.
I had a thought after seeing the floor plan, the room with the access to the cellar/boiler room should be the kitchen if possible as that cellar would make a great place to store preserved foods, wine etc. Also being north facing the view isn't as important. Then the room the opposite side could be the dining room. The rooms with the arch could then become one or two rooms with an opening bifolding door.
I agree with you about the 2nd stairwell. I suspect it was originally for servants but as there's no need no it needs to be gone.
We can't wait to see what you do next. Also give us a clue as to which county this is in. I think it's Suffolk, am I right?
It would be quite helpful to you if you could find the original plans. (Local archives may be able to help) The three bay windows don't seem to be in keeping. I would have thought they were floor to ceiling sash windows, or maybe tall french doors in line with the wall. I may be wrong though.
Can't wait to see the finished results 😊
Oooh! A drone shot! See? You're getting ever more professional in your vids. Please don't worry about keeping up with other channels, you have a pleasant personality, that's the most important part. That's why you have SO MANY subscribers already!!! Congrats!
All those flats plus an extension gives you the option of sub-letting for holidays, which has to be temporary, not yearly. It's still a useful income.
That is basically a district heating system - there is one big reliable (hence redundant boilers) loop and each flat can take a metered amount of energy out of it, by monitoring the flow and return temperature at each flat. Probably overkill for a single property - they had a goal of being able to separately bill tenants for their use, which you don't have. Not sure I would be in a hurry to get rid of any of it. Looks good and a lot to replace.
it's metering the flow rate
@@cliveramsbotty6077 not sure of the specific details of that one, but district heating systems generally have a heat exchanger, the flow rate through that on the supply side is known, and the energy extracted by the customer is just calculated from the temperature drop across the heat exchanger. If the customer side isn't flowing then there is no temperature drop on the supply side. I think that is why things look doubled up in the airing cupboard.
@@AlanBell There's no heat exchangers here. Things look 'doubled up' because there are two flow meters - one for heating, the other for domestic hot water. You can tell that these are flow meters because the water passes through them. There are also sensors to monitor the temperature here, but they're in dry pockets because they don't need to be directly in the stream of water.
This is great, can't wait to see how u go along, also this is great for air pumps as there becoming more popular , I'm sure any company would love to take it on, as this is a large house, and they could use as advertising,
Newer companies who are not yet well established might be a good target to use for an advertising discount.
If you only needed one boiler and they work I would leave the second one hooked up as a back up. Use them alternately to keep them operating.
If the heating system works well you might want to keep it for zoned heat, so that you can keep the rooms you use more warmer and turn down the heat in rooms you use less. Just a thought. I love how things are opening up as you take down walls.
Interesting thought!
You can do that anyway with a modern system. One boiler , one or two pumps, massive savings.
I'd keep the two boilers. It is a big house and you are going to lose temp just on the way to the house and within the walls of the house. To whom ever installed those boilers, "Job well done.".
i agree, the first two rooms seems to been well done, i hope he can keep them too, do not look that old to, but nowadays it's easier to buy something new than to repair a youngtimer...
Lol that little hole in the wall took me back to 1975 I was 5yob playing in the back yard my momma was taking a shower at out old stucco type house it had a broken vent that led to the shower, at 5 I didn’t know how much reaching in and grabbing my mommas ankle would upset her so much…😅😅😅
lucky you like well done newer systems.
The boilers were obviously moved to outside. You can see the new pipework coming into the plantroom is superinsulated. Apart from the ridiculously oversized pumps you have a great basis for a system there. Just to install the external plant room with the pipes through the ground and what you have in the basement you'd be looking at an easy 120k The pipe itself is around £100/m
The hole in the wall at 6:40. Does it establish whether the exterior walls are solid stone? The alternative would be stone facing with brick internal structural wall and rubble filling the gap between the stone and brick (in Glasgow where I have a house, that type of construction appears around late 19th / early 20th century so a bit later than this house). The larger old cities in Scotland at least (and I'm sure in England too) have many knowledgeable stone masons with lots of historical knowledge of how these buildings are put together. (Also some, but not all of the builders). Make sure you are speaking to people with the right experience!
i would have thought your best option would be to start again with the plumbing AND electrics due to the nature of it being up as separate flats up to your purchase. Perhaps as you have mentioned you intend to keep the annex separate it may be best for that to have a different supply (if you are considering selling it at some point in the future) but the main house I would just strip out all the plumbing and electrics and start afresh.
ps you have a very decent amount of scrap copper
pps TIDY UP as you go and DON'T start work in every room, you may soon get demoralised (just from my history) BUT DEFINATELY KEEP IT TIDY
The plumbing all looks fairly modern and clean, so not a huge asbestos risk.