Positive Comment Incoming ! You are not boring, after watching your previous video I have tried this on my heating system to try for myself. I am in my 4th year into my Level 3 Plumbing a Gas apprenticeship and on my days off I watch your vids for hours and they have helped me a lot in learning plumbing and mainly Gas side of things so keep up the good vids.
I watched the previous video regarding the heating being on 24/7,gave it a go & I'm more than happy with the results. we were blasting the heating for a few hours a day & house never really got that warm. Now with 55 flow rate, set back temp of 15 degrees & a maximum of 18 are using a lot less gas & it's on for longer. Not 100% there yet due to needing a couple of rad & room upgrades but saved us money so far & condensation is no more in the bathroom. Never been one for a super toasty warm house & find 17/18 degrees more than adequate during the recent cold snap & we live in a 125 yr old cottage with solid stone walls. THANKS!!!!!
Thanks Derek for telling the truth at last. I was always taught a cylinder stat is set at 60c 1/3 off the base, when did that change? More please, Take care, George Staszak 🤩👍
It is always interesting to see how many experts exits, what is shocking is how many of them don’t know shit (or think they know it all). Thank you very much Mr Tomkat, my question is; With all these quality videos for free on youtube, how the hell do you make money? I watched your videos years ago when I was training and it baffles me how yourself and Sir Hart makes money? I could do my ACS with just your videos, I guess learners need to use your centres, right? KEEP UP THE DAMN EXCELLENT WORK. On point all the time.
Our heating (combi) is also constantly "ON" and controlled by the thermostat and rad valves. We areboth pensioners just coming up to 70 years old and are still comfortable with the temperature being between 15°C (night) and 19°C (day in winter). If we feel a chill putting a jumper on is much cheaper than turning the heating up. As you say one size doesn't fit all and it's up to everyone to see what works for them.
[25:00] Re legionella risk, my Vaillent Ecofit boiler allows the flow temperature to rise about 5 degrees above the set temperature when its at its lowest modulation limit (I assume that's a software trick to try and keep the flame alight/reduce its cycling frequency) so although my boiler is normally set to 55 C, the heating coil in the cylinder goes up to 60C. That is going to provide some extra mitigation since the stratified hottest water at the top of the cylinder will be approach that temperature. Out of curiosity, do other makes operate in the same way?
I’m sure they all do, once the reach minimum modulation they are going to run up to the hysteresis limit before they shut off, once you’re at minimum modulation then it’s impossible to maintain a constant flow so you have to switch on and off with hysteresis.
For what it’s worth I’ve found the guidance on comfort temperature in the UK to be ridiculous. It’s far too low, especially considering the humidity in most homes which makes it feel even colder. Norway, for example, where much of the winter is very cold and dry, recommends 20-22 degrees. That certainly is closer to my comfort level winter sweet spot at 21 degrees with dry air.
That's way too warm. I'd have to walk round in a t-shirt and shorts! I have mine set to 16c max in the morning when I get up and in the evening before I go to bed, but during the day and night it's set not to come on until it gets down to 13c.
Good video however do not agree with most parts regarding a combi boiler, just to try this out I ran the heating on 65 degrees flow and everything fine, so to get the boiler to run in condensing mode I switched it to 55Degrees here is what happened. Temp on stat 18Degrees flow temp 55 degrees in 1.5 hours the temp on the stat was 18.9 Degrees and it was set for 20. Temp on stat 18 degrees flow temp 65 degrees. temp set to 20 degrees and in 40 mins the stat had reached 20 degrees so switched boiler of. With the flow temp set at 55Degrees it still had not reached 20 degrees after 1.5 hours of being constantly running. So the boiler is constantly running for well over an hour and still not reached a room temp of 20 degrees when set at 55degree flow, yet when set at 65degree flow it switched off in less than forty mins.. Running a boiler set at 55 degree flow for nearly an extra hour consumes far more gas than setting it at 65 Degrees for less than 40 mins. Or am I missing something here.
Been in the heating business 40 years , always believe set core temp ( boiler) 65-70, get there quickly, and then boiler shut off and pump runs, set core temp low and boiler runs and runs ( bigger bills have prove it)🤣🤣🤣, underfloor heating the same but even worse, as British climate change so much and under floor take to long to heat up and cool down
Just about to go to a heat pump after we have sorted out our insulation. We don’t like the house hot and are more than happy to wear winter clothes in the house, thermostat was only ever set to 12C. Would a heat pump have to be undersized to work efficiently to keep the rooms at 12C as I’m worried the MCS spec is to be able run about 21C when it’s -6C outside. Or can a large output pump be throttled down and still be efficient please? Our current heat loss estimate from EPC was 18kW but with the significant insulation remediation I hope to get this down to 8kW.
I notice some time ago you tried out the Tado V3 which IIRC was supplied at the time (UK only) with the analogue heating control receiver. You can now purchase the European version which has open therm as an option, any thoughts on you trying it out yourself as a retrofit?
Foil only reflects radiated heat, not convected heat. Benefits would be minimal compared to the eyesore. Not to mention lack of Wi-Fi and phone signal in your home
Thank god I am not a Gas Safe Inspector so I can set my cylinder temp to 47°C and be happy. I don't know much about heating or plumbing either but have the basics covered and have real experts do the rest. Occasionally these real expert plumbers and heating engineers ask me about microbiology in domestic dwellings and I am more than happy to oblige. They go home happy, perhaps take a little more care on commercial buildings but I probably do give the odd sleepless night to HVAC technicians. If you want to find legionella at home, go on holiday for 2 weeks in the summer and let grandma or the little ones suck on the unused shower head when you get back. Ideally get them to breathe in the first fine mist from it, just to be sure. If you want to go really mad, leave some water inside a bath toy, a traditional rubber duck is ideal, and let baby suck and squirt it. Pool toys, water pistols, plant watering misters, hot tubs et al all get an honourable mention too. Of course, you probably got legionella on the 2 week holiday anyway, much easier than finding it at home.
Positive Comment Incoming !
You are not boring, after watching your previous video I have tried this on my heating system to try for myself.
I am in my 4th year into my Level 3 Plumbing a Gas apprenticeship and on my days off I watch your vids for hours and they have helped me a lot in learning plumbing and mainly Gas side of things so keep up the good vids.
More people need to watch this!!!! - Best thing I found to bring my gas bill down was getting a log burner put in!!! Go forage for logs! ;-)
I watched the previous video regarding the heating being on 24/7,gave it a go & I'm more than happy with the results. we were blasting the heating for a few hours a day & house never really got that warm. Now with 55 flow rate, set back temp of 15 degrees & a maximum of 18 are using a lot less gas & it's on for longer. Not 100% there yet due to needing a couple of rad & room upgrades but saved us money so far & condensation is no more in the bathroom. Never been one for a super toasty warm house & find 17/18 degrees more than adequate during the recent cold snap & we live in a 125 yr old cottage with solid stone walls. THANKS!!!!!
A great vid with a mix of science and common sense stuff. I also tell people to get rid of drafts in the house to keep warmer. 👍
I totally got your video but people want to walk around in their homes in shorts and t-shirts 😂👍
I do anyway, even with the heating off!
Thanks Derek for telling the truth at last. I was always taught a cylinder stat is set at 60c 1/3 off the base, when did that change? More please, Take care, George Staszak 🤩👍
It is always interesting to see how many experts exits, what is shocking is how many of them don’t know shit (or think they know it all). Thank you very much Mr Tomkat, my question is; With all these quality videos for free on youtube, how the hell do you make money? I watched your videos years ago when I was training and it baffles me how yourself and Sir Hart makes money? I could do my ACS with just your videos, I guess learners need to use your centres, right?
KEEP UP THE DAMN EXCELLENT WORK. On point all the time.
greetings from Serbia. very good and informative video
Our heating (combi) is also constantly "ON" and controlled by the thermostat and rad valves.
We areboth pensioners just coming up to 70 years old and are still comfortable with the temperature being between 15°C (night) and 19°C (day in winter).
If we feel a chill putting a jumper on is much cheaper than turning the heating up.
As you say one size doesn't fit all and it's up to everyone to see what works for them.
Love upper vids you are honest and that's what we need merry Xmas regards from a very stormy cork
@@corkion all the best stay safe
[25:00] Re legionella risk, my Vaillent Ecofit boiler allows the flow temperature to rise about 5 degrees above the set temperature when its at its lowest modulation limit (I assume that's a software trick to try and keep the flame alight/reduce its cycling frequency) so although my boiler is normally set to 55 C, the heating coil in the cylinder goes up to 60C. That is going to provide some extra mitigation since the stratified hottest water at the top of the cylinder will be approach that temperature.
Out of curiosity, do other makes operate in the same way?
I’m sure they all do, once the reach minimum modulation they are going to run up to the hysteresis limit before they shut off, once you’re at minimum modulation then it’s impossible to maintain a constant flow so you have to switch on and off with hysteresis.
For what it’s worth I’ve found the guidance on comfort temperature in the UK to be ridiculous. It’s far too low, especially considering the humidity in most homes which makes it feel even colder.
Norway, for example, where much of the winter is very cold and dry, recommends 20-22 degrees. That certainly is closer to my comfort level winter sweet spot at 21 degrees with dry air.
That's way too warm. I'd have to walk round in a t-shirt and shorts! I have mine set to 16c max in the morning when I get up and in the evening before I go to bed, but during the day and night it's set not to come on until it gets down to 13c.
Good video however do not agree with most parts regarding a combi boiler, just to try this out I ran the heating on 65 degrees flow and everything fine, so to get the boiler to run in condensing mode I switched it to 55Degrees here is what happened.
Temp on stat 18Degrees flow temp 55 degrees in 1.5 hours the temp on the stat was 18.9 Degrees and it was set for 20.
Temp on stat 18 degrees flow temp 65 degrees. temp set to 20 degrees and in 40 mins the stat had reached 20 degrees so switched boiler of.
With the flow temp set at 55Degrees it still had not reached 20 degrees after 1.5 hours of being constantly running.
So the boiler is constantly running for well over an hour and still not reached a room temp of 20 degrees when set at 55degree flow, yet when set at 65degree flow it switched off in less than forty mins..
Running a boiler set at 55 degree flow for nearly an extra hour consumes far more gas than setting it at 65 Degrees for less than 40 mins.
Or am I missing something here.
Been in the heating business 40 years , always believe set core temp ( boiler) 65-70, get there quickly, and then boiler shut off and pump runs, set core temp low and boiler runs and runs ( bigger bills have prove it)🤣🤣🤣, underfloor heating the same but even worse, as British climate change so much and under floor take to long to heat up and cool down
Just about to go to a heat pump after we have sorted out our insulation. We don’t like the house hot and are more than happy to wear winter clothes in the house, thermostat was only ever set to 12C. Would a heat pump have to be undersized to work efficiently to keep the rooms at 12C as I’m worried the MCS spec is to be able run about 21C when it’s -6C outside. Or can a large output pump be throttled down and still be efficient please?
Our current heat loss estimate from EPC was 18kW but with the significant insulation remediation I hope to get this down to 8kW.
Thermostatic blending / mixing valves on baths and WHB get around the 'too hot' water problem.
Yes, I've had to fit them to our house in Scotland where they are required. But a pain to set up.
I notice some time ago you tried out the Tado V3 which IIRC was supplied at the time (UK only) with the analogue heating control receiver. You can now purchase the European version which has open therm as an option, any thoughts on you trying it out yourself as a retrofit?
Is there a reason why you've not spoke about weather compensation rather than on/off internal thermostat as this is even more efficient?
I never in my life liked indoor temperature below 20-21, and while in hungary, I was used to 25. People here in the UK just don't get it.
And why can't you have foil on ceiling so it reflects heat down. Then you wouldn't need loft insulation and you could do your make up lying on sofa.
Foil only reflects radiated heat, not convected heat. Benefits would be minimal compared to the eyesore. Not to mention lack of Wi-Fi and phone signal in your home
Any recommendations for a 24kW Combi Boiler with a rear flue?
I currently have a Glowworn Flexicom 30cx.
Thank god I am not a Gas Safe Inspector so I can set my cylinder temp to 47°C and be happy. I don't know much about heating or plumbing either but have the basics covered and have real experts do the rest. Occasionally these real expert plumbers and heating engineers ask me about microbiology in domestic dwellings and I am more than happy to oblige. They go home happy, perhaps take a little more care on commercial buildings but I probably do give the odd sleepless night to HVAC technicians.
If you want to find legionella at home, go on holiday for 2 weeks in the summer and let grandma or the little ones suck on the unused shower head when you get back. Ideally get them to breathe in the first fine mist from it, just to be sure. If you want to go really mad, leave some water inside a bath toy, a traditional rubber duck is ideal, and let baby suck and squirt it. Pool toys, water pistols, plant watering misters, hot tubs et al all get an honourable mention too. Of course, you probably got legionella on the 2 week holiday anyway, much easier than finding it at home.
I know the answer, and im not qualified....heating is either set too high, or too low....simples
Dead right
You heard it here First Ladies and gentlemen Derek has nothing in his cavity 😂😂😂😂
Why can I heat a 30 cubic metre space with two candles?
Fork handles
Because you have virtually no heat loss?
Probably your body heat, 30m3 is a very small room.
They will be banning or taxing log burners before u know it 😂😂
The sun isn’t very efficient think how much heat just sails on past into space to twinkle on some distant planet.
You wouldn't want all the heat from the sun otherwise it would be 400000000000c 😂
I think in 20 years we will take a pill and go in a deep sleep for a few months.Then we can wake up in March and save on bill. Just like bears.
Can I have one now
@@waynekerrr9027me too please
Your vids I should have said
I was being sarcastic
I watched for 3mins, can't watch any more as he talks a lot but doesn't say much.
The video could have been 5mins long if he answered a question.